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The Quartz Astron Launch Seiko

Christmas Day 1969: Seiko launches the world\'s first quartz wristwatch and detonates the Swiss watch industry.

Real watch lovers of Sydney turn out for second launch of DOXA in Australia Time+Tide
Doxa Nov 24, 2019

Real watch lovers of Sydney turn out for second launch of DOXA in Australia

If I could offer one piece of advice for anyone who is ever asked to speak at a watch event, it is this: know your stuff. At the second launch of Doxa watches in Australia in a week, this time in Sydney at the home of Oscar Hunt tailors in York Street, I spoke about … ContinuedThe post Real watch lovers of Sydney turn out for second launch of DOXA in Australia appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Nomos Introduces the Zürich Weltzeit Amsterdam Edition SJX Watches
Nomos Introduces Nov 17, 2019

Nomos Introduces the Zürich Weltzeit Amsterdam Edition

After the 2017 launch of the Orion 38 “De Stijl” – one of the most unusual and intriguing Nomos watches to date – Dutch retailer Ace Jewelers has unveiled the fruit of its third collaboration, the Zürich Weltzeit Amsterdam. Limited to just 25 pieces, the watch is a variation of the Nomos travel watch, distinguished by a handful of distinct but restrained tweaks. Previously available only with a blue or white dial, the Amsterdam edition features white indices and text, along with red accents on a stark, matte black dial. Appreciably, its stark, no-nonsense colour palette comes at a time when Nomos is increasingly relying on pastel-coloured dials. The watch features several nods to the Dutch city, with “Amsterdam” replacing Berlin on the city ring and highlighted in red, while home time is indicated at three o’clock by the flag of Ace Jeweler’s hometown of Amsterdam, made up of three Saint Andrew’s crosses. The rest of the watch is otherwise identical to the standard version. Its steel case measures 39.9mm wide and 10.85mm high, featuring angled, elongated lugs that are similar to the Orion’s and rather distinct from all the other collections. All surfaces of the case are polished, offering a great contrast to the matte dial. A pusher at two o’clock advances the local time display in one-hour steps while a recessed pusher at eight o’clock sets the home time. Visible through the sapphire case back, the watch is powered by the in-house automatic DUW 5...

Zenith Introduces the El Primero A386 Phillips Limited Edition SJX Watches
Zenith Introduces Nov 8, 2019

Zenith Introduces the El Primero A386 Phillips Limited Edition

In a first for watchmaking, an establishment watchmaker has collaborated with an auctioneer in creating a pair of limited edition wristwatches, resulting in the El Primero A386 designed by Phillips. The tie-up has resulted in a pair of watches, one in steel with a “tropical” dial, and the other in striking black and gold – with the total number made being just 69, a nod to the year of the El Primero’s launch. The two watches are actually part of the same creative process that spawned the platinum El Primero A386 One-Off that will soon be sold for charity. Aurel Bacs and Alex Ghotbi of Phillips were responsible for conceiving the look of both watches. According to Phillips, the duo imagined being designers of the brand-new El Primero in 1969, rather than looking back from today and creating a modern remake. The yellow gold El Primero is consequently a combination that was common back in the day – think Rolex Daytona “John Player Special” though never produced by Zenith. And the steel version is not actually a “tropical” dial, rather it is a reference to the brown colours fashionable in design and apparel during the 1960s. Hence it has its sub-dials in three shades of brown, a riff on the “tricolour” registers of the original A386. And the steel watch comes with a bonus: a steel “ladder” bracelet with straight end links that’s a replica of the same found on the original A386. Key facts and price El Primero A386 Phillips Limited Edition Ref. 30.P38...

Hands-On: Longines Avigation Type A-7 “The Hour Glass” in Bronze SJX Watches
Montblanc 1858 chronograph which develops Nov 6, 2019

Hands-On: Longines Avigation Type A-7 “The Hour Glass” in Bronze

Following the launch of the Sinn 356 Pilot Chronograph limited edition to mark the 40th anniversary of The Hour Glass, the retailer has just announced yet another pilot’s chronograph, but this time, one that is more unusual and striking, the Longines Avigation Type A-7 1935 in bronze. Characterised by an askew dial and movement, the Type A-7 “The Hour Glass” is based on the second-generation, 2016 reissue of the chronograph Longines supplied to the US Army Air Corps in the 1930s that was known as the “Type A-7”. Striking colourways Though the distinctive case style is retained, the commemorative edition is made even more unusual by an attractive material and colour combination. The case is bronze and paired with either a blue or champagne dial finished with a metallic, sun ray-brushed finish. While bronze might seem a bit too fashionable, especially in this price segment, it’s surprisingly uncommon for Longines. In fact, the new Type A-7 is only the second Longines watch to have a bronze case; the first was the Heritage Military Kuwait limited edition. The case is made of phosphor bronze (CuSn8), an alloy that is 92% copper and 8% tin. In contrast to the aluminium-bronze alloys, used in watches like the Tudor Black Bay Bronze or Montblanc 1858 chronograph, which develops a brownish patina, phosphor bronze has a more reddish tone and develops a blue-green, sunken-treasure oxidisation over time. While the vintage Type A-7 was a 51mm diameter cockpit instrumen...

Montblanc Introduces the 1858 Split Second Chronograph with a Jade Dial SJX Watches
Montblanc Introduces Nov 1, 2019

Montblanc Introduces the 1858 Split Second Chronograph with a Jade Dial

Following the launch of the one-of-a-kind 1858 Split Second Chronograph with a blue agate dial for the upcoming Only Watch charity auction, Montblanc has unveiled a limited edition in bronze with a nephrite jade dial. The eight-piece edition was created for Salón Internacional Alta Relojería (SIAR), a big watch fair in Mexico City attended by most major brands, explaining the green dial with red accents – a nod to the Mexican flag. Though the bronze-and-green livery has been applied to multiple models in the 1858 range, the new SIAR edition adds a fascinating point of departure, with the dial being a semiprecious stone rather than the usual lacquered brass. The dial is essentially a thin slice of nephrite, a mineral better known as jade. It’s usually dark green, but sometimes also yellow or white; white nephrite is known as “mutton fat” jade in China and highly prized. The other mineral also known as jade is jadeite, but it’s harder, denser and often found in brighter colours. Mechanically and aesthetically, the watch is as retro as it gets. The design of the dial was inspired by a pilot’s chronograph produced by Minerva in the 1930s. It has a double chronograph scales – a telemeter on the outer rim and a snail-shaped tachymeter in the centre. The rose-gold plated cathedral hands and Arabic numerals are coated with faux-aged lume, as on the regular production model. The red seconds numerals and hand adds a rich contrast against the pleasingly busy dial, ...

Farer Introduces the Chronograph Hand-Wound SJX Watches
Farer Introduces Oct 23, 2019

Farer Introduces the Chronograph Hand-Wound

Following on the launch of its automatic chronograph a year ago, London-based Farer recently released a new collection of hand-wound chronographs, which are fairly unusual in this price category where automatic chronographs dominate. This time around, it’s more than just a new line as the watches are the official timers of the 2019 Bernina Gran Turismo, a classic car race across the Bernina Pass in the Swiss Alps. Three standard models and one limited edition make up the new Chronograph Hand-Wound line, though the limited edition quickly sold out, and all carry the brand’s DNA with distinctive, retro designs and bold colours. Though the individual models share the same house style, each is detailed differently, right down to the size of the hour numerals, something Farer does for all its mode lines. All models share the same, cushion-shaped stainless steel case measuring 41mm by 12.9mm (and 43mm lug-to-lug). It’s rated to 100m and fitted with a domed sapphire crystal. For contrast, the front and sides are brushed with a polished steel exhibition back, and the pushers are also polished. The knurled crown is steel but topped with a bronze insert embossed with Farer’s logo, a standard feature on all hand-wound Farer watches; other models have a solid bronze crown. Let’s take a closer look at what differentiates the Bernina, Cresta and Moritz chronographs. Bernina Named after the Bernina Gran Turismo – a hillclimbing race around St Moritz for classic cars  – ...

Introducing the G-Shock GM-5600 (Capped) in Stainless Steel SJX Watches
Casio recently unveiled another variant Oct 20, 2019

Introducing the G-Shock GM-5600 (Capped) in Stainless Steel

Following the bestselling G-Shock 5000-series “Full Metal”, Casio recently unveiled another variant of the iconic DW-5600, but now capped with a steel bezel cover, the GM-5600. It’s essentially a budget version of the “Full Metal”, offering a similar look for less than half the price. Introduced in 1987, four years after the launch of the first ever G-Shock, the DW-5000, the DW-5600 retained the look and  construction of the original, but with an improved electronic module and a dial that did away with the brick pattern found on the original. Since then, the DW-5600 has has been issued in an bewildering array of colours and styles, but the latest iteration marks the first time the model gets a steel cladding on the front. It is available in three iterations: stainless steel (GM-5600-1), black ion-plated steel with a black dial (GM-5600B-1), and black ion-plated steel with an military green, camo-pattern dial (GM-5600B-3). As with the standard DW-5600 (and all other G-Shocks), the new watch has a double case construction made up of an inner resin case covered in a steel outer case, preserving the signature shock resistance and 200m depth rating of the G-Shock, while keeping it lighter than the “Full Metal” model. The outer steel case features a bezel with a vertically brushed finish, nearly identical visually to the found on the steel “Full Metal”. Size-wise, the GM-5600 is a tad bigger than the standard resin DW-5600 at 49.6mm by 43.2mm on the front, ...

VIDEO: Mid-Century Magic with the Girard-Perregaux 1966 Collection Time+Tide
Girard-Perregaux 1966 Collection There was Oct 18, 2019

VIDEO: Mid-Century Magic with the Girard-Perregaux 1966 Collection

There was a lot going on in the middle of the 1960s. The space race was in full swing, the Australian dollar was introduced, and the launch of the Girard-Perregaux 1966 Collection. This collection was launched alongside a number of other projects that Girard-Perregaux were working on, including being aggressively competitive in the Neuchâtel Observatory … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: Mid-Century Magic with the Girard-Perregaux 1966 Collection appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

RECOMMENDED READING: History of the Must de Cartier Tank Time+Tide
Cartier Tank Editor’s note I Oct 8, 2019

RECOMMENDED READING: History of the Must de Cartier Tank

Editor’s note: I think most people reading this fully appreciate just how dire things were in the 1970s as a result of the notorious “quartz crisis”. Myriad Swiss watchmakers seemed to just disappear overnight, succumbing to a battery-powered onslaught led by Seiko, who inundated the wristwatch market with inexpensive, accurate timepieces. It was an interesting … ContinuedThe post RECOMMENDED READING: History of the Must de Cartier Tank appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Introducing the Klo & Co. Alpesailer SJX Watches
Girard-Perregaux Laureato. While Oct 3, 2019

Introducing the Klo & Co. Alpesailer

Having made its debut two years ago with a dual-dial watch that combined an automatic and quartz movement, Klo & Co. is an unusual “microbrand”, having been started by a trio of young Filipino watch enthusiasts. The Manila-based brand has just unveiled the Alpesailer, a steel sports watch with an internal rotating bezel and an integrated bracelet. Head-on, the Alpesailer clearly derived from Gerald Genta’s famous octagonal design – think of it as a “Super Compressor” style homage to the Royal Oak. That being said, the bezel is actually brushed and round on top, with a polished octagonal base, bringing to mind the Girard-Perregaux Laureato. While the watch wins no prizes for ingenious design, it’s well spec’ed and only US$400. Depth rated to 100m, the case measures 41mm wide and 12.5mm in height. It features a “Super Compressor” style design with an internal rotating bezel and twin crowns – one for winding and setting, the other for rotating the bezel. However, like most modern watches inspired by actual Super Compressor dive watches from the 1960s, this does not have the same, Super Compressor sealing technology pioneered by case maker Ervin Piquerez, which relied on a spring-loaded back that press against the case as external water pressure increased. While the twin-crown design remains attractive even today, advancements in the fabrication of cases, crystals and gaskets have made such sealing technology superfluous in a modern watch. The A...

Introducing the Seiko Presage Green Enamel Dial Limited Edition SPB111J1 SJX Watches
Seiko Presage Green Enamel Dial Oct 1, 2019

Introducing the Seiko Presage Green Enamel Dial Limited Edition SPB111J1

Since its global debut in 2016, the Seiko Presage collection has quickly gained a following for its dials that feature artisanal decoration, usually executed with traditional Japanese crafts such as urushi lacquer and Arita porcelain, but at strikingly affordable prices. Following the launch of the first Presage with a Spring Drive movement (in the past, automatic or hand-wound movements were the norm) a few months ago, the brand has now unveiled a limited-edition automatic with a deep green dial made of fired, vitreous enamel, otherwise known as grand feu enamel in Swiss watchmaking. Inspired by the colour of Japanese cedar trees, the green enamel dial features applied hour markers – instead of the more common printed or painted markers found on enamel dials – paired with rounded dauphine hands. The dial is once again produced by master craftsman Mitsuru Yokosawa and his team, who work for Fuji Porcelain Enamel Co., Ltd., one of Japan’s biggest makers of enamelware. The company has been Seiko’s go-to supplier for high-quality enamel dials made on a large scale at relatively low cost, a crucial reason why the Presage watches equipped with enamel dials are eminently affordable. As with a majority of automatic Presage models, the case is in stainless steel and measures 40.8mm wide and 12.4mm in height. It’s simply finished with a bright mirror polish on most surfaces, with the top of the lugs brushed for a little contrast and structure. Visible throu...

A. Lange & Söhne Introduces the Lange 1 Tourbillon “25th Anniversary” SJX Watches
A. Lange & Sohne Sep 25, 2019

A. Lange & Söhne Introduces the Lange 1 Tourbillon “25th Anniversary”

The road was long, but we have arrived: at the start of the year, A. Lange & Söhne kicked off the gradual launch of the 25th anniversary editions of the Lange 1. Made up of 10 different models, unveiled one a month, the series has now come to a conclusion with the final model – the Lange 1 Tourbillon “25th Anniversary”. While all other watches in the Lange 1 family have remained in the catalogue since their debut, the Lange 1 Tourbillon was always a limited edition, making the last instalment of the anniversary series the rarest. The model was first unveiled in 2000 in pink gold (250 pieces) and platinum (150 pieces), followed by a honey-gold version (150 pieces) a decade later to mark the 165th anniversary of Ferdinand Adolph Lange’s birth. Then the watch received the “Handwerkskunst” treatment in 2014 (20 pieces), giving it a platinum case and glossy, black enamel dial, resulting in a very desirable watch. And Lange also quietly produced a handful of one-off examples over the years, including a recent one for retailer The Hour Glass in Tokyo. Lange 1 Tourbillon Handwerkskunst The specially decorated movement of the Lange 1 Tourbillon Handwerkskunst Interestingly, Lange 1 Tourbillon “25th Anniversary” marks the first time that the watch is produced in white gold. The case remains the standard size, 38.5mm wide and 9.8mm in height, also the same dimensions as the standard Lange 1. And like all prior 25th anniversary editions, it features a solid...

De Bethune & Urwerk Introduce the Moon Satellite for Only Watch 2019 SJX Watches
De Bethune & Urwerk Introduce Sep 23, 2019

De Bethune & Urwerk Introduce the Moon Satellite for Only Watch 2019

When Urwerk cofounder Felix Baumgartner was in town recently to launch the UR-100 SpaceTime, I quizzed him on the De Bethune and Urwerk collaboration for Only Watch 2019. While the other brands taking part in the charity auction had already unveiled photos or renderings of their respective creations, Urwerk and De Bethune only offered a pen drawing. Felix replied that the movement had been completed and delivered to De Bethune some weeks ago, and Denis Flageollet, De Bethune’s resident technical genius, was working on building the one-off titanium case. And now Mr Flageollet has completed the watch, and this is it. The initial drawing The meeting of minds Named the Moon Satellite, the watch is essentially an Urwerk wandering hours time display module – with the time indicated on satellites – mounted on top of a hand-wound De Bethune movement, resulting in the cal. DBUR2105. Visually the movement is trademark De Bethune. The calibre has a delta-shaped barrel bridge that is entirely mirror polished, as is the base plate, one of the most distinctive movement treatments of De Bethune. And in striking contrast against the polished surfaces, the balance and shock absorber bridges are in blued steel. The base movement cal. DB2105 boasts several of De Bethune’s patented innovations, including a spider-like titanium balance wheel, the triple pare-chute shock absorber for the balance, as well as the De Bethune hairspring and silicon escape wheel. And it also incorporat...

G-Shock Introduces the 5000 Series in Full Titanium SJX Watches
Casio debuted Sep 19, 2019

G-Shock Introduces the 5000 Series in Full Titanium

A year after Casio debuted the G-Shock “Full Metal” in stainless steel with a matching bracelet – and the whopper in solid 18k yellow gold – it has announced the G-Shock 5000 Series in titanium. The new launch is not a limited edition per se, but will only be produced for a limited time. Like last year’s “Full Metal” edition, the G-Shock GMW-B5000TB takes its cues from the original G-Shock DW5000 of 1983, but in matte black titanium with gold accents. But more intriguingly, the titanium case and bracelet are coated with diamond-like carbon (DLC) that has a granular finish meant to mimic the look of the rubber case of the standard G-Shock. The use of titanium means the new G-Shock is significantly lighter than the steel equivalent, weighing just 110g – a third less than the G-Shock “Full Metal”. And the G-Shock in titanium has a sapphire crystal with an anti-reflective coating, an upgrade over the mineral glass found on the steel version. Function-wise the G-Shock titanium edition is identical to the steel model. It’s solar-powered and incorporates a world time, stopwatch and alarm, as well as Bluetooth connectivity to a smartphone with the G-Shock app. An additional all-titanium G-Shock with a laser-engraved camouflage motif, the model GMW-B5000TCM-1, has been leaked online, but not yet announced officially. It will likely be launched later in the year. Key facts Diameter: 43.2mm Height: 13mm Material: Titanium with DLC coating Water resistance:...

Panerai Introduces the Luminor Due Trio in Titanium SJX Watches
Panerai Introduces Aug 26, 2019

Panerai Introduces the Luminor Due Trio in Titanium

A downsized, slimmer sports watch that’s the most civilian of Panerai’s military-inspired watches, the Luminor Due is now available in three sizes with a brushed titanium case (the PAM 926, PAM 927, and PAM 964). All have a date function, and the largest 45mm model has a second time zone and power reserve. Prior to this launch, the Luminor Due was only available as a time-only in two case sizes (42mm and 45mm), so the newly launched trio substantially increases the offerings in the lightweight metal. The Luminor Due 42mm PAM 927 in titanium But perhaps more significant is the newly developed calibre inside the new models. The P.900 is a large movement at 12 1/2 lignes, or about 28mm, in diameter, but slim. In fact, it’s the thinnest movement produced by Panerai, measuring just 4.2mm high. It’s automatic and has a three-day power reserve. Not much else has been revealed about the movement yet, but it is likely to be the brand’s new entry-level calibre. The smallest of the trio is the Luminor Due 38mm PAM00926 that’s powered by the automatic P.900 movement. It’s the first time the smallest Luminor Due case is being offered in titanium. The Luminor Due 42mm PAM00927 is one step upwards in size, but otherwise identical, with the same movement and specs. And the top of the line watch is the Luminor Due GMT Power Reserve 45mm PAM000964. This is equipped with the P.4002 automatic movement that has a second time zone, power reserve and zero-reset hack seconds....

Humism Introduces the Philosophies and Helios SJX Watches
Aug 13, 2019

Humism Introduces the Philosophies and Helios

After a successful launch of its debut collection in 2018, Singapore-based microbrand Humism has just debuted its next line-up, the Philosophies (II) and Helios collection, once again on the crowdfunding platform Kickstarter. The watches are a sure thing: at the time of writing, the watches have been fully funded, with the amount raised more than eights times its fundraising goal. As with its first range of watches, the latest timepieces from Humism feature the same lyrical time display, with both the hours, minutes, and seconds indicated by overlapping wheels that create an unfolding pattern as the time passes. Black and yellow The limited edition Helios takes two watches from last year’s line-up – the Dasein and the Eudaimonia – and dresses them in black and yellow. According to Humism, the largest number of backers last year chose this colour combination, out of nearly 50 choices. While the livery has changed, the time-telling mechanics stay the same. At the very top, the seconds wheel is in constant movement, providing the primary animation of the dial. Helios Dasein Helios Eudaimonia The hours and minutes are indicated by spheres on the edge of the dial, each attached to another wheel. The quicker rotation of the seconds wheel, superimposed on the slower minutes creates an optical illusion reminiscent of a kaleidoscope. Both have steel cases coated in black diamond-like carbon (DLC). The Helios Dasein is limited to 290 pieces, while the Helios E...

MY 6 MONTHS WITH: The Grand Seiko SBGN007 Time+Tide
Grand Seiko SBGN007 When most watch Jul 28, 2019

MY 6 MONTHS WITH: The Grand Seiko SBGN007

When most watch collectors hear the word quartz they think cheap, mass-produced and soulless. If a watch isn’t mechanical, it isn’t worth talking about, thinking about, and definitely not buying, which are sentiments I broadly agree with. As I wrote here, mechanical watches have a combination of nostalgic charm and independent reliability that I love … ContinuedThe post MY 6 MONTHS WITH: The Grand Seiko SBGN007 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

A. Lange & Söhne Introduces the Grand Lange 1 “25th Anniversary” SJX Watches
A. Lange & Sohne Jul 24, 2019

A. Lange & Söhne Introduces the Grand Lange 1 “25th Anniversary”

The story of the A. Lange & Söhne 25th anniversary set is now well known: slated for October launch, the set will comprise 10 different Lange 1 watches, all clad in the same blue and silver livery. One watch has been announced a month since the start of the year, and the latest addition is the Grand Lange 1 “25th Anniversary”. First introduced in 2003, the Grand Lange 1 was initially criticised for meddling with an iconic design. It has since matured well, helped by several redesigns as well as a movement conceived specifically for the watch. Grand Lange 1 25th Anniversary Bigger and better It’s the larger brother of the Lange 1, with a case diameter that’s 2.5mm larger; making it 41mm compared to 38.5mm for the classic Lange 1. But because the movement inside was designed to fit the watch, it scales up the design while adhering strictly to the proportions and geometry of the original Lange 1. The new movement was required to accommodate the signature, off-centre displays of the Lange 1, which sit on a neat grid. The cal. L095.1 is 34.1mm, compared to the 30.4mm of the first generation Lange 1 movement, the L901.0. An upside of the larger movement is the consolidation of the twin barrels of the smaller Lange 1 into a single, larger barrel, while still maintaining the 72-hour power reserve. That leads to a small but crucial difference on the dial of the Grand Lange 1: the lettering at seven o’clock reads “Gangreserve 72 Stunden”, German for ...

RECOMMENDED READING: Why did auctioneer Aurel Bacs buy a modern quartz watch? Time+Tide
Jul 12, 2019

RECOMMENDED READING: Why did auctioneer Aurel Bacs buy a modern quartz watch?

If you haven’t heard of Aurel Bacs, that is something that needs to change. While the word influencer has been irreparably ruined by people who use Instagram at the beach, it is one of the most fitting words to describe his impact on the global vintage watch market. The founder of the watch department at … ContinuedThe post RECOMMENDED READING: Why did auctioneer Aurel Bacs buy a modern quartz watch? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

RECOMMENDED READING: It might be the biggest, but the Apple Watch hasn’t crushed the Swiss  Time+Tide
Jul 3, 2019

RECOMMENDED READING: It might be the biggest, but the Apple Watch hasn’t crushed the Swiss 

Fun fact: Last year the Apple Watch shipped 22.5 million units. In the same period, the Swiss watch industry exported 23.7 million watches. Scary stuff if you’re a Swiss watch brand. Especially scary if your business is rooted in quartz watches - the market sector that’s being most aggressively eroded by the Apple onslaught.  This … ContinuedThe post RECOMMENDED READING: It might be the biggest, but the Apple Watch hasn’t crushed the Swiss  appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.