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Hot-Take: The Tudor Black Bay Chrono “Carbon 26” Fratello
Tudor Black Bay Chrono “Carbon Apr 30, 2026

Hot-Take: The Tudor Black Bay Chrono “Carbon 26”

Tudor is back with another motorsport-inspired chronograph, with the Black Bay Chrono “Carbon 26” debuting as its latest limited edition tied to the 2026 Formula 1 season. If last year’s “Carbon 25” set the tone, this new version builds on that same idea with a few visual tweaks and the same lightweight construction. Once again, […] Visit Hot-Take: The Tudor Black Bay Chrono “Carbon 26” to read the full article.

Introducing: The Tudor Black Bay Chrono “Carbon 26” Fratello
Tudor Black Bay Chrono “Carbon Apr 30, 2026

Introducing: The Tudor Black Bay Chrono “Carbon 26”

Tudor is back with another motorsport-inspired chronograph, with the Black Bay Chrono “Carbon 26” debuting as its latest limited edition tied to the 2026 Formula 1 season. If last year’s “Carbon 25” set the tone, this new version builds on that same idea with a few visual tweaks and the same lightweight construction. Once again, […] Visit Introducing: The Tudor Black Bay Chrono “Carbon 26” to read the full article.

Photo Essay: Patek Philippe Rare Handcrafts 2026 Honours the Power of Nature SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Rare Handcrafts 2026 Honours Apr 29, 2026

Photo Essay: Patek Philippe Rare Handcrafts 2026 Honours the Power of Nature

As Watches & Wonders drew to a close, Patek Philippe opened its annual exhibition of Rare Handcrafts at its salon on Rue du Rhône. It was a peaceful escape from the hustle of the Palexpo, and the perfect setting to view several dozen pieces from the new collection, ranging from Dome Clocks to wristwatches and pocket watches. The exhibition is open to the public until May 9th. Attendance is free, but visitors must register in advance online. Dome Clocks Among the prevailing themes of this year’s collection, the power of nature featured prominently. The Dome Clock ref. 20202N-001 “Magma” is the perfect example. The organic composition is almost shocking in its simplicity and minimal palette of just five colours of transparent enamel — and just seven more used for miniature painting. The volcanic depiction is undeniably violent in a way that creates a pleasing tension with the controlled techniques employed to create it, including silver leaf paillonné and a needle technique for creating the lifelike look of the volcanic rock, outlined with more than 23 g of gold wire. Of course, fired enamel has a lot in common with magma. In short, this choice of molten medium contributes to the authenticity of the work. The glowing lava is mirrored on the dial with 12 large baguette-cut sapphire hour markers totaling about 3 cts. Like the other Dome Clocks featured, the Magma is powered by an electrically wound 17’’’ pocket watch movement that offers a look into the firm...

Early Audemars Piguet Single-Button Chronograph Wristwatch Emerges at Christie’s Geneva SJX Watches
Audemars Piguet Single-Button Chronograph Wristwatch Emerges Apr 28, 2026

Early Audemars Piguet Single-Button Chronograph Wristwatch Emerges at Christie’s Geneva

One of the highlights in Christie’s upcoming Geneva auctions taking place on May 11, 2026, is the Audemars Piguet “Coussin Tortue” single-button chronograph wristwatch, serial number 41’849. It is an exceedingly rare watch, being one of a batch of three examples that were the first ever chronograph wristwatches made by Audemars Piguet (AP). Moreover, the watch has been in the same family since new, and is consigned by a descendent of the original owner who bought the watch in 1943. Also notably is the fact that this watch has been comprehensively – but sympathetically and artfully – restored by AP. This “cushion turtle” wristwatch has a platinum case and two-tone, solid gold dial, while the movement is a LeCoultre, just like the others in the batch of three watches. The first of the three was in white gold, following by two in platinum, including this example. Interestingly, this watch was delivered to retailer Veuve Louis Goering in La Chaux-de-Fonds in 1937, but only sold six years later. The tepid demand for such watches perhaps explains why, according to Christie’s, AP made a total of six single-button chronograph wristwatch movements, but the remaining three were only cased and sold over a decade after this one. Restored perfectly Besides being extremely rare and also unexpectedly beautiful, this watch stands out for having been enjoyed “extensive” restoration at Audemars Piguet. Ordinarily restoration would be frowned upon, but the watch was pre...

Auctions: Our Massive 2026 Geneva Spring Auctions Preview: Phillips and Antiquorum To Kick Things Off (Part 1 – Live Pics) Hodinkee
Cartier Apr 28, 2026

Auctions: Our Massive 2026 Geneva Spring Auctions Preview: Phillips and Antiquorum To Kick Things Off (Part 1 – Live Pics)

It's time for the Geneva spring auctions, the premier venue for the biggest lots and market-moving of the year. That's not to say that Hong Kong (which sometimes comes before, sometimes comes after) or New York (which rounds out the season) won't have some big lots. Sotheby's Hong Kong sale—which we covered previously—closed over the weekend with an absolutely shockingly great result, with massive prices across the board, especially for Cartier. The final total? $52,875,885, which is more than $10 million more than their previous record.  That included nearly $2 million for a Cartier London Crash, a London Tank Asymétrique went for a surprising $750,000, a skeletonized Baignoire was just shy of a million at $950,000—and that doesn't count things like the $1.96 million for a unique single-button Patek chronograph or $1.5 million for a "John Player Special" Daytona. Truly remarkable results up and down the board. Which begs the question: do we think crazy prices for Cartier will hold long term, or was it just excitement for the first round of sales? 8.3%Checking in on other results, the Monaco Legend Auction sold 98.3% of their lots for a total sale of €26,471,620. Big results include €2.106 million for a unique doré-dialed Patek 3448 “Padellone,” €1.88 million for a unique platinum Daytona, and €390,000 for a Cartier Tank à Guichets that was made in 3 examples, among some other solid results. A unique woven Cartier ”Pebble” did massively well as at...

Hands-on – The Frederique Constant Worldtimer Manufacture, Reworked Monochrome
Frederique Constant Worldtimer Manufacture Reworked When Apr 28, 2026

Hands-on – The Frederique Constant Worldtimer Manufacture, Reworked

When it launched in 2012, Frederique Constant’s Worldtimer Manufacture made waves in the watch world. A complication usually found in far pricier watches, it delivered in-house world time functionality with an “accessible luxury” price tag. Not content to rest on its laurels, FC unveiled a new and improved Worldtimer at Watches & Wonders this year […]

Hands On: Rolex Oyster Perpetual 36 ‘Jubilee’ Dial SJX Watches
Rolex Oyster Perpetual 36 ‘Jubilee’ Apr 28, 2026

Hands On: Rolex Oyster Perpetual 36 ‘Jubilee’ Dial

Marking the centenary of its signature Oyster case, Rolex has introduced a new polychrome ‘Jubilee’ dial for the Oyster Perpetual 36. An appealing new variant of a tangibly excellent product, the Jubilee dial will likely appeal to both experienced Rolex collectors as well as those who have historically found the brand’s designs too sedate. Initial thoughts Rolex is a brand that takes itself seriously. At times, the brand’s product development cycle seems to move at a glacial pace, but this is part of the discipline that has made Rolex the most successful maker of luxury watches by some margin — collectors have learned they can trust Rolex to keep a good thing going. So when the brand decides to have a little fun, it’s almost shocking. The brightly coloured Jubilee dial motif — built up of 10 layers of coloured lacquer — is certainly fun, and reminiscent of the ‘Celebration’ dial launched in 2023 in both 36 mm and 41 mm sizes. The Jubilee model pictured is the 36 mm size, but the design is also available in 41 mm (ref. 134300) and 31 mm (ref. 277200). The ‘Celebration’ dial was launched in 2023 in both 41 mm (left) and 36 mm sizes. The Oyster Perpetual 36 case keeps its nearly ideal proportions — small and sleek enough to disappear under a shirt cuff but chunky enough to hold its own with short sleeves. Substantively, it could make a proverbial ‘one-watch collection’ but given its exuberant dial will probably appeal most to seasoned collectors...

Revisiting The Raymond Weil Freelancer Complete Calendar Hands-On Review WatchAdvice
Frederique Constant Apr 27, 2026

Revisiting The Raymond Weil Freelancer Complete Calendar Hands-On Review

As Raymond Weil comes out of their shell, so do more incredible timepieces. But have they hit a new peak with the Freelancer Complete Calendar? Let’s find out! What We Love: An elegant and versatile design Quality-of-life upgrades to a classic complication Excellent value proposition with few competitors What We Don’t: Movement finishing somewhat lacklustre The calendar is hard to see from a distance Do we need the lume? Overall Rating: 9/10 Value for Money: 9/10 Wearability: 9/10 Design: 9/10 Build Quality: 9/10 This article was originally published as Is The New Raymond Weil Freelancer Complete Calendar Their Best Yet?  There’s a rapid surge happening in watchmaking right now. No, I’m not talking about the newly imposed 39% U.S. tariffs on Swiss watches (though that’s a story in itself), but rather the quiet re-emergence of the middle market. As household names climb further upmarket, a new wave of brands are pushing harder than ever, flexing their creative and horological muscles to prove what they’re truly capable of. Christopher Ward is one; Frederique Constant and Maurice Lacroix are others. But perhaps the most impressive contender in this power shift is none other than Raymond Weil. Nearly 50 years young, the family-owned independent has been quietly racking up achievements and accolades. Their breakout moment came with the GPHG-winning Millésime collection, followed by ambitious world timers and flyback chronographs — complications that once f...

Opinion: What “Fair Pricing” Actually Means at Watches & Wonders Worn & Wound
Apr 27, 2026

Opinion: What “Fair Pricing” Actually Means at Watches & Wonders

Few watch industry traditions are more sacred than the yearly dance during Watches & Wonders between shiny new novelties in Switzerland and comments from observers back home about pricing being out of control. Every year, without fail, new watches are announced in the dead of night on the east coast, and before anyone in the United States could conceivably have access to the new pieces, the commentary comes through loud and clear: they want how much for that?  Look, I get it, I really do. As a collector, I’m priced out of a lot of watches that I wouldn’t have been even a year or two ago. Things are getting crazy, and fast. But you’d think based solely on the online discourse that there isn’t a single watch priced fairly anymore. I really don’t think that’s the case.  When I say “priced fairly” I want to be clear that I don’t mean any given watch is necessarily affordable to me, or anyone else. But that, in the scheme of things, and thinking about what you’re actually getting for your money at this current moment in time, certain watches are retailing right about where they should be, or at least at a level that aligns with what the watch is offering. And “fair” can mean a bunch of different things when we’re talking about retail pricing. Things like finishing, the positioning of a brand compared to their competition (and how watches are positioned within a brand’s collection), as well as production scale and the health of the brand itself all ...

TAG Heuer Brings Miami To Your Wrist With The Formula 1 Solargraph Pastel Collection Fratello
TAG Heuer Brings Miami Apr 26, 2026

TAG Heuer Brings Miami To Your Wrist With The Formula 1 Solargraph Pastel Collection

After an unplanned break caused by suspended Middle Eastern races in Bahrain and Saudi Arabia, Formula 1 returns next weekend in Miami. To match the Grand Prix’s high-voltage color, TAG Heuer expands its revived Formula 1 Solargraph 38mm range with fresh pastels. The new lineup includes five models, with three featuring classic layouts in beige, […] Visit TAG Heuer Brings Miami To Your Wrist With The Formula 1 Solargraph Pastel Collection to read the full article.

Watches & Wonders: Nomos Introduces the Club Sport neomatik Worldtimer in a Classic Colorway Worn & Wound
Nomos Introduces Apr 24, 2026

Watches & Wonders: Nomos Introduces the Club Sport neomatik Worldtimer in a Classic Colorway

A year removed from last year’s Watches & Wonders, it’s clear that Nomos had the accessible watch of the show, and maybe of the year, with the Club Sport neomatik Worldtimer. Introduced initially in rhodium plated silver and blue dial executions, along with a handful of limited edition colorways that turned out to be incredibly highly sought after, the new Nomos Worldtimer became a bit of a phenomenon among a certain type of watch enthusiast. Over the course of the last year, we’ve seen Nomos return to the Worldtimer a few times with new limited editions, always appearing to sell out quickly. Given the appetite for this watch, it’s no wonder that Nomos would go back to the well a year later to introduce yet another variant. This one, though, immediately feels like the colorway that should have existed all along.  The new Club Sport neomatik Worldtimer in a white silver plated dial is a permanent addition to the collection. And it should be – this is basically the colorway that defined Nomos through their early years, and the period of time where they really grew as an enthusiast driven brand across the larger Watch Internet. This simple silvery white is, for most people, the dial color they imagine in their head when they close their eyes and think of a Nomos. It’s simple, minimal, and very much core to the Nomos brand identity. While they’ve certainly become known in recent years as being more freely experimental with color (to great effect – I own a mult...

In Partnership - Happenings: Join Us For A First Look At The Future Of Gerald Charles In SoHo Hodinkee
Gerald Charles Apr 24, 2026

In Partnership - Happenings: Join Us For A First Look At The Future Of Gerald Charles In SoHo

With the dust finally settling on Watches & Wonders 2026, the conversation shifts from the halls of the Palexpo to the cobblestone streets of SoHo. On May 6, Hodinkee is partnering with Gerald Charles for an exclusive community event at the Watches of Switzerland SoHo showroom. This evening serves as an intimate destination for collectors to go hands-on with the latest novelties from Geneva, offering a rare opportunity to experience the brand's evolution in a localized setting. The new Gerald Charles Masterlink Perpetual Calendar. The highlight of the evening is a thoughtful discussion featuring Federico Ziviani, CEO of Gerald Charles, and Hodinkee's own Deputy Editor, Tim Jeffreys. The two will explore the brand's unique heritage as the final creative chapter of Gérald Genta's career, as well as its strategic vision for the future. It is a deep dive into the "Maestro" DNA, punctuated by cocktails and the chance to be some of the first in the U.S. to handle the latest pieces. The new Gerald Charles Masterlink Perpetual Calendar. Registration:To attend this intimate community event, please RSVP to events@hodinkee.com with your first and last name. If you would like to bring a guest, kindly include their name and email address. A confirmation email will follow to finalize your RSVP. Details:Date & Time:Wednesday, May 6, 20266:00 pm – 8:00 pm ET Location:Watches of Switzerland SoHo60 Greene St, New York, NY 10012

Hands On: Imaginative Automata from Jacob & Co. SJX Watches
Jacob & Co. Apr 24, 2026

Hands On: Imaginative Automata from Jacob & Co.

It is somewhat counterintuitive to think that New York-based jeweller Jacob & Co. is one of the fastest growing brands in the mostly stagnant Swiss watch industry. In fact, Jacob & Co. is now a watchmaker first and a jeweller second by turnover – watches account for 75% of the brand’s revenue today. This success is party due to the brand’s open-minded approach to movement making and the surprising (and often risky) projects it has produced, from the first 31-day wristwatch in 2006 to the world’s fastest tourbillon in 2026. One of Jacob & Co.’s specialties is dial-side automata - micro-mechanical sculptures that that can be activated on demand. Alongside the launch of the flagship Godfather II, Jacob & Co. expanded its range of automata watches with new sapphire editions of the Bugatti Tourbillon, a malachite-dialled Casino, and new editions of the provocative Oil Pump. The Bugatti Tourbillon Sapphire Jacob & Co. is not the first watch brand to collaborate with celebrated carmaker Bugatti, but the collaboration is more than a mere commercial tie-up. In fact, the two companies share a manufacturing partner - Concepto - a La Chaux-de-Fonds-based specialist in components and white-label movements. Bugatti enlisted Concepto to produce the fully analogue instrument cluster of its latest hypercar - the aptly named Tourbillon. This was a delightful return to tactility in a world of digital displays and ubiquitous touchscreens. This three-way collaboration contin...

Watches & Wonders: Bremont Goes Upmarket With the Supernova Tourbillon and a Vintage-Styled Chronograph With a Historic Movement Worn & Wound
Bremont Goes Upmarket Apr 22, 2026

Watches & Wonders: Bremont Goes Upmarket With the Supernova Tourbillon and a Vintage-Styled Chronograph With a Historic Movement

For Watches and Wonders 2026, Bremont is aiming for the stars: not only with the Supernova Chronograph, a new space-oriented lineup that will actually go to the moon, but also showcasing what the British brand can do with a pair of upmarket, collectible chronographs. One of them features an in-house tourbillon movement, while the other resurrects an vaunted historic movement in an elegant, limited-edition, and vintage-inspired design.  The Supernova Chronograph, also making its debut in Geneva at Watches & Wonders, is the first of a new line for Bremont, a steel sports watch with an integrated bracelet and a generously-sized 41mm case. But Bremont is also using its architecture to debut the brand’s second tourbillon movement, following 2024’s Terra Nova Dual Time Tourbillon. This time around, the Supernova Tourbillon exhibits a skeleton design with all of its movement bridges and tourbillon cage displayed around a black ceramic bezel and a sapphire crystal, with red jewels as the Supernova’s only exhibition of color.  Dramatically, the markers, bridges, Dauphine hands, and the tourbillon’s three markers glow with a bright blue Super-LumiNova, a nod to the space theme that the Supernova is aiming for.  If the Supernova Tourbillon is aimed at the future, Bremont’s other release has a distinctly vintage feel-starting from its movement. Bremont is resurrecting the Valjoux 23 two-register chronograph movement into its new Altitude Chronograph Pulsometer: a restor...

Hands-On: The Vacheron Constantin Overseas Ultra-Thin 2500V Hodinkee
Vacheron Constantin Overseas Ultra-Thin 2500V Apr 22, 2026

Hands-On: The Vacheron Constantin Overseas Ultra-Thin 2500V

The new Vacheron Constantin Overseas Ultra-Thin 2500V is a release from the brand at this year's Watches and Wonders that's gotten quite a bit of chatter, deservedly so. After all, it is the brand's thinnest-ever Overseas, thanks to a brand-new in-house movement developed over seven years, which means what I assume to be an ungodly amount of R&D; dollars per millimeter shaved. It's also come at a time when Vacheron seems to be really having a moment - the passion I saw amongst Vacheron collectors when I was in Miami last month for the opening of the brand's largest U.S. boutique was very much an exciting sight to see.  But is the final result worth all the effort? Very much so, if we take the new Overseas Ultra-Thin 2500V as an ultra-limited, ultra-expensive halo product to mark the development of this new caliber. This 2500V and the Overseas Dual-Time Cardinal Points released alongside it at Watches and Wonders are already seeing very strong demand, and I think that's a sign of a good showing in Geneva. To many collectors of Vacheron over the years, the previous ultra-thin, time-only Overseas 2000V might feel like it had just come out, but in fact, a decade has passed since its introduction. Coming in white gold, the case measured 40mm in diameter, with a thickness of 7.5mm. Inside was the Vacheron 1120 caliber, a version of the JLC caliber 920 that had found its way in many watches amongst the Holy Trinity of brands, thanks to its superlative of being the thinnest aut...

Hamilton Celebrates America’s 250th Anniversary with a Special Khaki Field Mechanical Worn & Wound
Hamilton Celebrates America’s 250th Anniversary Apr 21, 2026

Hamilton Celebrates America’s 250th Anniversary with a Special Khaki Field Mechanical

Hamilton is marking the United States’ 250th anniversary with a new limited release tied to both the brand’s American roots and its ties to military history. The Khaki Field Mechanical America 250 Anniversary US Edition is a U.S.-exclusive model limited to 1,776 pieces, referencing, of course, the year the Declaration of Independence was signed. Founded in Lancaster, Pennsylvania in 1892, Hamilton is using this release to revisit one of its lesser-known military references. The watch takes inspiration from the FAPD 5101 navigator’s watch, developed in the early 1970s for U.S. Air Force navigators during the Vietnam era. Produced for only a short period, the original model has since become one of the rarer Hamilton military watches. It featured a 36mm parkerized steel case, slightly larger than many field watches of its era, and was powered by the 17-jewel Hamilton caliber 684 (a movement developed specifically for that watch and not used elsewhere in the brand’s catalogue). Several of those defining details carry into this new iteration to celebrate the U.S.’s semiquincentennial anniversary (keep that word in your back pocket for trivia night). The case remains 36mm, preserving the footprint of the original reference, while fixed bars are used to keep the strap securely in place. Hamilton has also fitted the watch with an acrylic box-shaped crystal and a protective dust cover, furthering the vintage elements of the original reference point of this model. The dial...