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Results for Above the Date Window

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Above the Date Window: Steve McQueen's Monaco and What Sotheby's Catalogues Really Tell You

How a sliver of dial real estate above the date window decodes provenance on every screen-worn Heuer Monaco that has passed through Sotheby's and Phillips.

Parmigiani Turns to Cermet for the Tonda PF Sport Chronograph SJX Watches
Jul 9, 2025

Parmigiani Turns to Cermet for the Tonda PF Sport Chronograph

Sportier and a little more affordable than its more elegant cousin, Parmigiani’s Tonda PF Sport was originally available only in steel. The Tonda PF Sport Chronograph Ultra-Cermet swaps out that conventional alloy for a case of cermet, a composite of ceramic and metal. Notably, the entire case – bezel, case middle, pushers, and crown – is in cermet. Initial thoughts Parmigiani has iterated its popular sports into many variations, perhaps too many, but the Tonda PF Sport in cermet is one of the most interesting so far. While the material is not new to watches, it is usually employed for one or two components, typically the bezel. The new Tonda PF Sport Chronograph is almost all cermet, which is gives it an appealing a single-tone appearance that goes well with the clean styling. The new chronograph is available in Milano Blue (left), and London Grey Material aside, it is essentially identical to earlier versions of the Tonda Sport PF Chronograph. Though it is little changed in fundamental terms, that’s not necessarily a bad thing as the PF070 movement inside ranks amongst one of the most sophisticated chronograph calibres, especially in sports watches. The only downside of the new material is the price hike. The cermet model is basically a 50% premium over the steel version, which the brand will not doubt justify in terms of machining and polishing complexity, but it is still difficult to rationalise. The PF070 Ceramic and metal Cermet is a composite of ceramic and...

The Konstantin Chaykin Joker Meets Behrens’ Ultra Light SJX Watches
Behrens Ultra Light Building Jul 9, 2025

The Konstantin Chaykin Joker Meets Behrens’ Ultra Light

Building on the Russian watchmaker’s signature Joker timepiece, the Behrens x Konstantin Chaykin Ace of Hearts blends the European court jester with its Chinese counterpart – contained with Behren’s ultra-light, trapezoid wristwatch that was first launched in 2023 as the Ultra-Light 11G. Initial Thoughts One of a new breed of inventive Chinese watchmakers, Behrens has always excelled at novelty watches, thanks to a combination of creativity and competitive pricing. This sets it apart from both its domestic and international competition. European manufacturers in the same price range simply can’t develop base movements or even custom modules for small production runs, at least economically, while only a few other Chinese brands have built enough credibility outside the country to sell five- to six-figure watches internationally. The Ace of Hearts exemplifies what Behrens does well – while also being a collaboration with an established European independent watchmaker. The brand’s earlier collaboration with Konstantin Chaykin was well received, but didn’t stand out from other Wristmon models in terms of styling, so it’s good to see a new direction with the Ace of Hearts. In fact, the Ace of Hearts stands out even in comparison to the ever-growing Wristmon family. I find the sapphire case models most interesting, as the transparent case suits the airy construction of the movement and importantly, they are priced reasonably compared to Swiss brands. Movement The...

Hands-On With The Norqain Freedom 60 Chrono 40mm Enjoy Life Special Edition Fratello
Norqain Freedom 60 Chrono 40mm Jul 9, 2025

Hands-On With The Norqain Freedom 60 Chrono 40mm Enjoy Life Special Edition

Last month, I had the opportunity to attend Soccer Aid, a charitable football match held at Old Trafford in Manchester. Norqain was the official timing partner of the event and invited a group of people to see the game and hear about the brand’s official UK launch. During the evening, we sat down with CEO […] Visit Hands-On With The Norqain Freedom 60 Chrono 40mm Enjoy Life Special Edition to read the full article.

Hands-on – The SPB519, The Updated Seiko Prospex 1968 Heritage Diver GMT That Does It All Monochrome
Seiko Prospex 1968 Heritage Diver Jul 9, 2025

Hands-on – The SPB519, The Updated Seiko Prospex 1968 Heritage Diver GMT That Does It All

Seiko‘s dive watch legacy is long and rich, yet surprisingly, a mechanical diver with a GMT complication only joined the catalogue in 2023. The SPB381/383and SPB385 laid the groundwork with their “caller GMT x Diver” design, and earlier this year, the SPB509 brought meaningful improvements, including 300m water resistance and a micro-adjustable clasp, wrapped in […]

In A Royal Oak and Nautilus World, Why I Love The Vacheron Constantin Overseas Deep Stream Chronograph Quill & Pad
Vacheron Constantin Overseas Deep Stream Chronograph Jul 9, 2025

In A Royal Oak and Nautilus World, Why I Love The Vacheron Constantin Overseas Deep Stream Chronograph

Ask and ye shall receive, dear readers! Well, within reason. Quill & Pad reader and frequent commenter Greg has been after GaryG for a while to write a piece on his Vacheron Constantin Overseas Deep Stream Chronograph, most recently in response to Gary's article on three “keepers” from his collection that don’t get a lot of wrist time. Gary didn’t include the Deep Stream on that list as it is a quite frequent wearer for him, but now its time in the spotlight has come.

DUG: The New Kids on the Block in Glashütte Worn & Wound
Nomos s workshops Jul 8, 2025

DUG: The New Kids on the Block in Glashütte

On a warm and sunny Saturday in June, I visited the inauguration ceremony for DUG workshop. DUG (Deutsche Uhrenmanufaktur Glashütte) is the eleventh company to establish itself in the watchmaking town of Glashütte. The last brand to open a workshop in this town were young independent duo, Kallinich Claeys.  The DUG workshop is just around the corner from Lange HQ, across from Glashütte Watch Museum, and on the steep road leading up to one of Nomos’s workshops. The building previously belonged to C.H. Wolf, and there is still some old signage around the building. It is a modern and fairly large building for a micro-brand to occupy. It has tall ceilings and a row of new watchmaker benches along with a few administrative and conference rooms. It could easily host a medium size watch company. The DUG workshop Toni Brodführer, founder and Managing Director of DUG, is planning to move in there before the end of the year with three watchmakers. He is also open to sharing the space with other small watch companies. At the opening ceremony, I was pleased to run into Thibault Claeys and Johannes Kallinich, who were impressed by the building and seemed to like what Toni is doing. Before I get back to my observations about the brand and the newest watches, I interviewed Toni to get some background and context of owning and operating a new micro-brand in Glashütte.  Toni’s journey of DUG began with a personal passion for watches. He had been fascinated with watches since his...

Introducing – The Hublot Classic Fusion Essential Taupe… Surprisingly Streamlined Monochrome
Hublot Classic Fusion Essential Taupe… Jul 8, 2025

Introducing – The Hublot Classic Fusion Essential Taupe… Surprisingly Streamlined

Hublot… A brand that brings heated conversations and opinions. Hublot is surely known for its bold moves, disruptive materials and colours you can spot across the room. Baby blue sapphire case, snake pattern on the bezel, multicoloured ceramic that looks… questionable. You name it. Yet, Hublot also knows how to use its signature Classic Fusion […]

First Look – The New Schwarz Etienne 1902 Réserve de Marche, a Contemporary Classic Rooted in Tradition Monochrome
Schwarz Etienne 1902 Réserve de Marche Jul 8, 2025

First Look – The New Schwarz Etienne 1902 Réserve de Marche, a Contemporary Classic Rooted in Tradition

The romantically inclined would agree that there is a certain intimacy in winding a watch by hand, a moment of pause, intention, and awareness of time’s passage. With its latest creation, the 1902 Réserve de Marche, Schwarz Etienne invites that quiet ritual back into the rhythm of daily life, full of automatically performed actions. Building […]

Seiko Commemorates the World Athletics Championships with a Limited Edition Purple Speedtimer Worn & Wound
Seiko Commemorates Jul 7, 2025

Seiko Commemorates the World Athletics Championships with a Limited Edition Purple Speedtimer

The Seiko Prospex Speedtimer is one of those watches that is just incredibly easy to recommend. It runs on a solar powered quartz movement, which makes it ultra practical and reliable. It’s styled to look a little like classic vintage chronographs that we love, but isn’t an on-the-nose recreation of any in particular. And they come in an easy to wear 39mm case, a fairly neutral size for just about any wrist. They’re also relatively affordable, coming in well under $1,000.  Seiko has released several of these “SSC” Speedtimers in recent years in a variety of colorways. The latest is a limited edition for the World Athletics Championships, which this year returns to Tokyo for the first time in 34 years. Seiko has been the official timekeeper of the World Athletics organization since 1987 and has made a number of watches to commemorate the partnership in that time.  This Speedtimer would seem to capitalize on a fairly persistent trend in the watch world: the purple dial. According to Seiko, the tone of this dial in particular is inspired by “Edo purple”, a shade long associated with the city of Tokyo. This color has also been designated as the official color of this year’s World Athletics Championships event.  The purple base is accented with black chronograph subdials and a black tachymeter bezel, along with applied faceted hour markers and lume filled hands that have been outlined in black for increased legibility. The black and purple combination works w...

Introducing – The Vacheron Constantin Métiers d’Art “Tribute to The Celestial” Collection Monochrome
Vacheron Constantin Métiers d’Art “Tribute Jul 7, 2025

Introducing – The Vacheron Constantin Métiers d’Art “Tribute to The Celestial” Collection

As one of the most prestigious watch manufactures from Geneva, it’s no surprise to see Vacheron Constantin playing in the field of artisanal crafts, or what the industry names “métiers d’art.” One of the recurring themes used by VC are the zodiac signs, expressed in various manners over the years, either through yearly Chinese-themed watches […]

Vacheron Constantin’s “Tribute to The Celestial” Artfully Blends Gemstones and Guilloché SJX Watches
Vacheron Constantin s “Tribute Jul 7, 2025

Vacheron Constantin’s “Tribute to The Celestial” Artfully Blends Gemstones and Guilloché

Continuing with its 250th anniversary special editions in fine style, not long after the Temporis Grand Complication, Vacheron Constantin’s latest is the 12-piece-strong Métiers d’Art “Tribute to The Celestial”. Each watch is dedicated to symbol of the zodiac, with the respective constellation rendered in hand guilloché on the dial, while the case is set with baguette-cut sapphires totalling almost 4 ct. Fortunately available individually instead of only as a set, each “Tribute to The Celestial” watch is powered by the cal. 2160, an automatic movement with a tourbillon and novel peripheral winding mechanism. Initial thoughts Vacheron Constantin (VC) has long combined complications and gemstones, though in a relatively low-key manner since such watches were rarely announced publicly. The series of Overseas Perpetual Calendars set with coloured stones, for example, was never widely publicised. The “Tribute to The Celestial” demonstrates what VC can do with its in-house guilloche workshop and gem setting (which is probably not done in house). The watches are striking and beautiful, though certainly only for fans of blue, and only blue. Despite the gemstones and guilloche, the watches look surprisingly modern, likely due to the colour as well as the geometric nature of the engine turning. Though the guilloche is done the old school way on a hand-operated machine, the engraved zodiac symbols look nothing like traditional guilloche. Not all the zodiac emblems a...

Introducing – The new IWC Portugieser Tourbillon Retrograde Chronograph in Armor Gold Monochrome
IWC Portugieser Tourbillon Retrograde Chronograph Jul 7, 2025

Introducing – The new IWC Portugieser Tourbillon Retrograde Chronograph in Armor Gold

The Portugieser line is one of IWC’s iconic collections, tracing its origins back to the late 1930s when Portuguese businessmen sought precision marine chronometer-grade wristwatches with oversized cases and clear dials. Since then, the Portugieser family has evolved into a flagship line balancing classic elegance with technical prowess, blending clean, legible design with complications that […]

A Hands-On Introduction To The Colorful Batavi Marina Chronograaf Collection Fratello
Jul 7, 2025

A Hands-On Introduction To The Colorful Batavi Marina Chronograaf Collection

It’s summer in the Northern Hemisphere, so it’s time to dust off your colorful watches. If you haven’t got any colorful options in your watch box yet, look at the new Marina Chronograaf collection by Batavi. As always, the Dutch brand offers surprising color combinations, and the modest pricing turns these models into perfect “bonus” […] Visit A Hands-On Introduction To The Colorful Batavi Marina Chronograaf Collection to read the full article.

New Release: Greubel Forsey Balancier Contemporain in Stainless Steel, the Final Edition Quill & Pad
Greubel Forsey Balancier Contemporain Jul 7, 2025

New Release: Greubel Forsey Balancier Contemporain in Stainless Steel, the Final Edition

Ian Skellern has been a Greubel Forsey fan boy since the brand launched back in 2004, but his appreciation for the brand’s beautifully executed complications was always purely platonic. It wasn't just the price, their watches were too big for him. The sub-40 mm Balancier Contemporain changed that and this blue stainless steel final edition looks sensational!

Hands-On With The New J.N. Shapiro Infinity Series Pure - California-Made Classicism Fratello
Jul 7, 2025

Hands-On With The New J.N. Shapiro Infinity Series Pure - California-Made Classicism

Los Angeles-based brand J.N. Shapiro Watches has achieved a somewhat mythical status since Josh Shapiro founded it in 2018. The watches are elusive and exclusive creations that dent your budget and test your patience. What if you don’t have US$75,000 to spend and/or lack the mental stamina to wait around three years for your watch? […] Visit Hands-On With The New J.N. Shapiro Infinity Series Pure - California-Made Classicism to read the full article.

IFL Watches Introduces The Bulova Super Seville Honeycomb Limited Edition Fratello
Bulova Super Seville Honeycomb Limited Jul 7, 2025

IFL Watches Introduces The Bulova Super Seville Honeycomb Limited Edition

IFL Watches has been using the Bulova Super Seville as a canvas for some of its latest dial creations. I love Bulova’s retro Super Seville, so I welcome the creative takes that the team at IFL develops. For this latest limited-edition release, the artists at IFLW came up with a special hand-painted honeycomb dial. The […] Visit IFL Watches Introduces The Bulova Super Seville Honeycomb Limited Edition to read the full article.

Behind The Scenes At Tissot: Inside The Light-Powered Tissot PRC 100 Solar Quartz Fratello
Tissot Inside Jul 5, 2025

Behind The Scenes At Tissot: Inside The Light-Powered Tissot PRC 100 Solar Quartz

Quartz movements took a next step when light started charging the power source. Tissot started using light as a “fuel” in 2014 when it introduced the T-Touch Expert Solar. This year, the brand from Le Locle presents the next technological step in the shape of the Lightmaster solar quartz movement. The movement is the heart […] Visit Behind The Scenes At Tissot: Inside The Light-Powered Tissot PRC 100 Solar Quartz to read the full article.

eBay Finds: A Fun Digital Seiko from the Year Star Wars Premiered, a Hamilton with a Unique History, and a Zodiac Sea Wolf in Great Condition Worn & Wound
Hamilton Jul 4, 2025

eBay Finds: A Fun Digital Seiko from the Year Star Wars Premiered, a Hamilton with a Unique History, and a Zodiac Sea Wolf in Great Condition

eBay Finds is back! This bi-monthly installment will feature a selection of watches currently listed on eBay that have caught the eye of editor Christoph McNeil (@vintagediver). If you come across any hidden gems on the ‘Bay drop us a note at info@wornandwound.com for potential inclusion. Vintage Zodiac Sea Wolf  The Zodiac Sea Wolf is an absolute icon in the vintage dive watch world, and this early metal bezel version is a nice example. There were many iterations of the Sea Wolf, with various bezel materials, dial colors and date/no date versions. This black dial, date with metal bezel is an earlier combination, and definitely sought after. The plated bezel is usually pretty worn, and the lume can be degraded or re-done on these. This example has a nice clean black dial with great lume on the dial and hands, and the bezel is in top shape. The crown is also original and signed with the Zodiac logo as it should. No movement pictures but the seller states the watch runs well.  View auction here Vintage 1970s Bulova Jet Star  Here’s a wild vintage Bulova from 1974, that looks every bit the 70s watch. The 40mm gold plated UFO style case is excellent and unpolished, still showing the original radial brushed finish. The case may draw your eye, but it’s the bold two-tone orange dial that keeps you looking! The dial is a bright orange that turns darker at the outer edge. Applied markers outlined in brighter orange and steel and white hands with a day-date window at 3 o’...

The Evergreens – The Complete History of the IWC Portugieser Collection, the Icon from Schaffhausen Monochrome
IWC Portugieser Collection Jul 4, 2025

The Evergreens – The Complete History of the IWC Portugieser Collection, the Icon from Schaffhausen

Last year marked the 85th anniversary of one of IWC Schaffhausen‘s most important collections, the Portugieser. Originally created in the late 1930s, the story of this wristwatch series begins with a special request from two Portuguese wholesalers, Rodrigues and Teixeira. They approached IWC with a simple but ambitious goal: to create a wristwatch with the […]

First Look – A More Compact 40mm Version of the Norqain Independence Skeleton Monochrome
Norqain Independence Skeleton Norqain Jul 4, 2025

First Look – A More Compact 40mm Version of the Norqain Independence Skeleton

Norqain, the young, independent Swiss brand, produces contemporary, adventure-oriented watches. Many of the brand’s most popular models belong to the Independence collection, including the high-tech carbon fibre Wild One, conceived in collaboration with Jean-Claude Biver, the Skeleton Flyback Chrono featuring a proprietary manufacture calibre, and Norqain’s first skeletonised model. In line with current market watch […]