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Results for Above the Date Window

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Above the Date Window: Steve McQueen’s Monaco and What Sotheby’s Catalogues Really Tell You

Steve McQueen’s Le Mans Heuer Monaco 1133B crossed Sotheby’s block. The above-the-date-window detail collectors spotted, the hammer price, why it matters.
In-Depth: The Technical Evolution of Patek Philippe SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Oct 23, 2025

In-Depth: The Technical Evolution of Patek Philippe

The Patek Philippe approach to watchmaking has developed through a steady accumulation of choices. Since 1839, the manufacture has refined its mechanical language through proportion, regulation, and clarity in construction. Each calibre reflects priorities shaped by experience, built for durability, and adjusted for lasting performance. Understanding the technical evolution of Patek Philippe requires attention to the principles that govern its construction: structural integrity, material stability, and a consistent focus on functional accuracy. Many manufacturers embraced modernity through visible transformation and stylistic experimentation, while Patek Philippe evolved through careful integration of innovation that served enduring mechanical aims. Its development follows a logic defined by proportion, restraint, and the pursuit of lasting technical harmony. The modern-day, expansive manufacture in Plan-les-Ouates in Geneva From Jean Adrien Philippe’s keyless winding system of the 1840s to the introduction of silicon components in the twenty-first century, progress has remained guided by internal reasoning and accumulated skill. Each movement expresses a study of mechanical relationships refined over time, where advances emerge from clarity of purpose and precision in design. The chapters that follow trace this progression through its historical sequence. Each period reflects a technical response to changing demands: the shift from pocket to wrist, the rise of automati...

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Longines Introduces the Ultra-Chron Classic Worn & Wound
Grand Seiko Oct 22, 2025

Longines Introduces the Ultra-Chron Classic

When Longines reintroduced the Ultra-Chron back in 2022, many enthusiasts and vintage watch lovers were excited by the possibility of the brand exploring one of their key collections with a new lens. To the surprise of many, the watches that have been introduced in the new-look Ultra-Chron lineup have frequently been on the more contemporary side when it comes to design. For a brand that has become known for raiding the archives, the most revered Ultra-Chrons of old haven’t really been a factor with the new pieces. That changes, however, with the introduction of the new Ultra-Chron Classic, which, as the name suggests, is a riff on the original Ultra-Chron, the one often seen by collectors as the most desirable.  The Ultra-Chron has always existed as a testament to Longines’ commitment to chronometry. When the collection launched in 1967, it was the first time a watch with a movement based on those used in chronometry competitions had been successfully shifted to a mass produced product. The Ultra-Chron was one of several watches released in the 1960s that effectively threw down the gauntlet in the ongoing chronometry wars among many of the biggest Swiss brands (plus Seiko/Grand Seiko). So it makes sense that Longines would return to the original design of one their most historically important watches.  The Ultra-Chron Classic is about as sturdy an example of a clean, midcentury watch design as you’re likely to see. Its circular stainless steel case comes in two si...

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Citizen Nighthawk Review: The Military Pilots' Watch Teddy Baldassarre
Citizen Nighthawk Review Oct 22, 2025

Citizen Nighthawk Review: The Military Pilots' Watch

Citizen's fleet of Promaster Pilot watches offer an array of styles and complications for the aviation-watch enthusiast, and the Nighthawk models occupy a specific niche within the overall collection thanks to their bold, no-nonsense design drawn from military helicopter cockpits. Here is what you should know about the Citizen Nighthawk, and a showcase of the models that have most resonated with enthusiasts. The flight of the Nighthawk begins with the Promaster. In fact, Citizen’s Promaster collection - established in 1989 and built around the concept of rugged yet stylish, multifunctional timepieces aimed at sea, air, and land professionals - could be described as the massive aircraft carrier from which many Citizen pilots’ watches have been launched. From this now-emblematic collection emerged many of the famous Citizen tool watches we’re familiar with today, categorized under Promaster Marine (dive watches including the Eco-Drive and Mechanical Professional Divers as well as the high-tech Aqualand); Promaster Land (including the altimeter-equipped Altichron and ana-digi Combination Watch) and Promaster Sky, which includes GMTs like the Eco-Drive Geo-Trekker and the now-familiar “Hawk” watches with multiple aviation-centric functions, like the Skyhawk, Navihawk, and Nighthawk. What makes the Nighthawk models stand out from their high-flying peers? It is the most military in its aesthetic, with a dial design inspired by the instruments found in the cockpits ...

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The James Brand and Timex Team Up Again on a New Version of their Hit GMT Worn & Wound
Timex Team Up Again Oct 22, 2025

The James Brand and Timex Team Up Again on a New Version of their Hit GMT

Timex and The James Brand is a collaboration that just makes a lot of sense. On paper, the two brands appear to be from different worlds. Timex is a historically important, mass market watch brand that at one point or another touches the wrist of just about every enthusiast – a true horological gateway drug. The James Brand is a niche EDC brand and decidedly more contemporary. But what binds them together, I think, is a common willingness to experiment and try new things. The James Brand has a catalog full of practical, innovative tools that owners continuously find new ways to put into use. And Timex has quietly been a real innovator in offering interesting, design oriented watches that represent true value to enthusiasts over these last several years, with the launch of Timex Atelier being the best example. The two brands have come together once again with a follow up to a big hit limited edition from last year in the form of a new GMT with a very on trend dial material.  The new version of the James Brand x Timex Automatic GMT, which they’ve dubbed the “Nocturne Edition,” exists on the same platform as last year’s release, with a few notable tweaks. The first notable update is Timex has swapped the titanium case of the previous version for one in stainless steel. The 41mm case has a tough, sandblasted finish, which is what you’d expect from an EDC oriented brand like TJB. The other big change is the new dial crafted from forged carbon fiber. It has the tell...

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First Look - The New Zenith Defy Skyline Tourbillon in Full Rose Gold Monochrome
Zenith Defy Skyline Tourbillon Oct 22, 2025

First Look - The New Zenith Defy Skyline Tourbillon in Full Rose Gold

The Defy Skyline collection by Zenith has quickly become the modern pillar of the brand’s angular, integrated, and technical sports collection. We’ve seen the series stretch into complications and materials, most notably last year’s steel and black ceramic Skyline Tourbillons built around the high-frequency El Primero calibre 3630. The latest chapter elevates form and finish. […]

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A Hands-On Introduction To The Versatile RZE Resolute 36 Fratello
Casio n RZE […] Visit Oct 22, 2025

A Hands-On Introduction To The Versatile RZE Resolute 36

Watch brands are great at celebrating their milestones. It usually leads to one or multiple limited releases commemorating the different events. However, RZE decided to celebrate its fifth anniversary differently. The brand is not releasing a limited edition with a new dial color or another variation of an existing watch. No, for this occasion, RZE […] Visit A Hands-On Introduction To The Versatile RZE Resolute 36 to read the full article.

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First Look - New Independent Watchmaking Atelier Aubert & Ramel and their First Watch, the Ouréa Monochrome
F.P. Journe Young Talent Competition which Oct 22, 2025

First Look - New Independent Watchmaking Atelier Aubert & Ramel and their First Watch, the Ouréa

Watchmaking prizes and competitions have a remarkable virtue. Their primary vocation is to discover new talents and bring them into the spotlight. A perfect example is the F.P. Journe Young Talent Competition, which has been celebrating and supporting young independent watchmakers since 2012. For me, this award was the opportunity to discover the extraordinary talent […]

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Spacing Out With The New Urwerk UR-10 Spacemeter - A Watch That Measures Time And Space Fratello
Urwerk UR-10 Spacemeter - Oct 22, 2025

Spacing Out With The New Urwerk UR-10 Spacemeter - A Watch That Measures Time And Space

When a watch with hands looks alien, it must be an Urwerk. Recently, the brand introduced a non-digital watch that measures time and space with traditional hands on a round dial while still managing to make your watch brain feel weightless. I was spacing out with the Urwerk UR-10 Spacemeter when it was still under […] Visit Spacing Out With The New Urwerk UR-10 Spacemeter - A Watch That Measures Time And Space to read the full article.

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First Look - The New Luminor GMT Ceramica 40mm PAM01460, the First-Ever 40mm Ceramic Panerai Monochrome
Panerai Oct 22, 2025

First Look - The New Luminor GMT Ceramica 40mm PAM01460, the First-Ever 40mm Ceramic Panerai

For most of its modern life, the Luminor has been a big-wrist proposition, the classic 44mm and 47mm references defined the line’s presence. This spring’s Luminor GMT Power Reserve Ceramica PAM01574 reaffirmed Panerai’s commitment to high-tech casework at the larger end of the spectrum. At the same time, Panerai has been quietly proving that the […]

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First Look - The Bulgari Tubogas Manchette and Octo Finissimo Tribute to Frida Kahlo and Diego Rivera Monochrome
Bulgari Tubogas Manchette Oct 21, 2025

First Look - The Bulgari Tubogas Manchette and Octo Finissimo Tribute to Frida Kahlo and Diego Rivera

Some of the most passionate love affairs of the 20th century have had their stories written in Bulgari jewels. One of the most conspicuous affairs consecrated with Bulgari gemstones was Liz Taylor and Richard Burton’s passionate romance, sparked on set while filming Cleopatra in Rome. As any upscale luxury brand knows, there is nothing like […]

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Hands-On: The New Omega Speedmaster Grey Side Of The Moon With Caliber 3869 Fratello
Omega Speedmaster Grey Side Oct 21, 2025

Hands-On: The New Omega Speedmaster Grey Side Of The Moon With Caliber 3869

Apollo 8 was the first space flight to reach the Moon. On board were NASA astronauts Frank Borman, Jim Lovell, and William Anders. It took them 68 hours to travel to the Moon, and during the first 66 hours, the spacecraft’s windows were facing Earth. Apollo 8 needed to swing behind the Moon (in total, […] Visit Hands-On: The New Omega Speedmaster Grey Side Of The Moon With Caliber 3869 to read the full article.

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First Look - The New, More Accessible Oris Aquis Pro 1000m with Sellita Movement Monochrome
Oris Aquis Pro 1000m Oct 21, 2025

First Look - The New, More Accessible Oris Aquis Pro 1000m with Sellita Movement

Dive watches span the spectrum: retro throwbacks that trade on romance, do-it-all desk divers that split time between meetings and marinas, and true instruments built for cold, dark water. This segmentation is very much in place at Oris, and the Aquis Pro 1000m belongs in the last category. Previously available with a manufacture Calibre 400 […]

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Introducing: The Brand Minim And Its Three-Watch-Strong MN01 Collection Fratello
Oct 21, 2025

Introducing: The Brand Minim And Its Three-Watch-Strong MN01 Collection

Minim is an independent watch brand founded by Chloe Chan, and just like her, it is a balance of East and West. According to the founder, the three watches in the debut MN01 collection reflect her journey from Hong Kong to London and are a contemporary tribute to traditional watchmaking. The inspiration from vintage pocket […] Visit Introducing: The Brand Minim And Its Three-Watch-Strong MN01 Collection to read the full article.

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Seiko’s Design Project Bears Fruit with the Collection 1 SJX Watches
Seiko s Design Project Bears Oct 21, 2025

Seiko’s Design Project Bears Fruit with the Collection 1

The Seiko Collection 1 is the first commercial release from the brand’s revived Power Design Project. The look revisits the Tissé, one of many popular Seiko designs from the 1980s. A delicate watch on a beaded bracelet, it was a big hit in Japan. Four decades later, its spirit returns in a compact, unisex format designed to be worn loosely like jewellery. Designed by Yuya Suganuma, the Collection 1 debuts as a 500-piece limited edition in each of three colours, blending typical Seiko build quality with a playful, accessory-first design. Initial thoughts For much of the Swiss watch industry, the 1980s was an era marked by the painful triumph of quartz technology. But on the other side of the world, quartz pioneer Seiko was thriving. The brand’s catalogues of the era reflects the optimism of the moment with an astonishing number of interesting designs, many of which have been reimagined over the years; we’ll likely see more of them in the future. The Tissé was one such model, introduced as a ladies watch in 1984. A tiny watch on a beaded steel bracelet, the Tissé was designed to be worn loosely, and became a big hit in the home market. The Tissé was eventually discontinued, but the concept was reimagined in 2022 as part of the brand’s re-launched Power Design Project, an internal design initiative with the theme of “rebirth”. The watch that would become the Collection 1 drew attention for questioning traditional norms for wristwatch ergonomics. It was designe...

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Introducing: The Steel And Gold Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF Automatic 36mm Deep Ruby Fratello
Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF Automatic 36mm Oct 21, 2025

Introducing: The Steel And Gold Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF Automatic 36mm Deep Ruby

In the current watch landscape, Parmigiani Fleurier has a special position. The brand’s standout designs and clever use of colors have earned it much praise. I admire what Parmigiani has achieved, so I am always curious to find out what is next. For its newest creation, the Parmigiani team decided to spice up the 36mm […] Visit Introducing: The Steel And Gold Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF Automatic 36mm Deep Ruby to read the full article.

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The Incredible New Polymesh Bracelet from Ming Worn & Wound
Holthinrichs Oct 20, 2025

The Incredible New Polymesh Bracelet from Ming

The coolest thing I saw at Geneva Watch Days that I wasn’t allowed to talk about publicly is finally here. This week, Ming introduced a new bracelet concept they’re calling the Polymesh, and with its release it immediately became one of the most interesting products in a catalog full of boundary pushing designs.  If you zoom out, what we have here is fairly easy to understand: it’s a 3D printed titanium bracelet. We’re pretty accustomed to 3D printing in watchmaking at this point, with recent releases from Holthinrichs and Apiar serving as recognizable touchpoints for what the technology is currently capable of. As with any other type of manufacturing, there are degrees to the level of quality and complexity depending on how the printing is done and what your goals are, more generally. Of course, in the case of Holtinrichs and Apiar, it’s the cases that are being created using a 3D printing process, and any watch you’d cite as an example has tell-tale signatures that it was made with additive manufacturing, whether that’s a rough finish or angles and shapes that would be otherwise impossible to achieve. A bracelet, though, is a whole other ball of wax. It’s worth pointing out that Holthinrichs has made a 3D printed titanium bracelet in the past, so the idea that Ming has here with the Polymesh isn’t unprecedented. The execution, though, is pretty original. The Polymesh is made up of 1,693 individual components, all held together without the aid of pins o...

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The 57 Best Swiss Watch Brands: A Complete Guide for 2026 Teddy Baldassarre
Audemars Piguet but also from Oct 20, 2025

The 57 Best Swiss Watch Brands: A Complete Guide for 2026

If you were to ask the average person on the street in any part of the world which nation comes to mind when they think about luxury watches, they’d likely not hesitate in naming Switzerland. While the realities of the international watch industry are more complex, and several other nations, such as Japan and Germany, are also prominent makers of excellent luxury watches, Switzerland will always, justifiably, be regarded as the world center of fine watchmaking. The country's longtime reputation for watch excellence springs not only from the sheer number of industry giants that call it home - including household names like Rolex, Omega, Patek Philippe, and Audemars Piguet - but also from its world-renowned reputation for expertise in all the various crafts that go into fine watchmaking. The Swiss watch industry is as vast as it is complex, with different brands offering varying specialties in a wide range of price points for export around the globe.With all of that in mind, trying to boil down the Swiss watch industry to a subjective list of major players is a bit of a daunting task, as there are many dozens of brands worthy of inclusion. Here we attempt to provide a brief overview of some of the most prominent brands in the Swiss watch industry to give you a basic understanding of what makes each one special. For each brand, we'll provide a bit of history, showcase its major milestones and most important watches, and offer a bit of insight on w...

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Introducing - India’s First Wandering Hours Timepiece, the Titan Stellar 3.0 and its Crystallized Titanium Case Monochrome
Titan Oct 20, 2025

Introducing - India’s First Wandering Hours Timepiece, the Titan Stellar 3.0 and its Crystallized Titanium Case

Our visit earlier this year to India’s prime watchmaking company, Titan, was a genuine eye-opening experience. Besides witnessing the impressive scale of production (it is immense, and a whole different level than Swiss watchmaking), we also discovered that the industry giant had some unexpected horological capacities. Titan, to celebrate its 40th anniversary, unveiled India’s first […]

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Introducing - The New Serica Parade Reference 1174 with Linen Dials Monochrome
Serica Parade Reference 1174 Oct 20, 2025

Introducing - The New Serica Parade Reference 1174 with Linen Dials

Young French brand Serica has built a loyal following by incorporating vintage cues into clean, modern tool watches and addressing the details that many brands often ignore. After field-ready divers and GMTs put the Paris-based maker on the map, the Serica Parade Ref. 1174 shifted the conversation to the dress watch category – without abandoning […]

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A Hands-On Introduction To The Piaget Andy Warhol “Collage” Limited Edition Fratello
Piaget Andy Warhol “Collage” Limited Oct 20, 2025

A Hands-On Introduction To The Piaget Andy Warhol “Collage” Limited Edition

Andy Warhol once said, “Art is what you can get away with.” Does Piaget get away with the art watch you see here? In collaboration with the Andy Warhol Foundation, the Piaget Andy Warhol “Collage” Limited Edition bursts onto the scene. The watch is a limited edition of 50 pieces, each featuring a dial crafted […] Visit A Hands-On Introduction To The Piaget Andy Warhol “Collage” Limited Edition to read the full article.

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First Look - The New Piaget Andy Warhol Watch Collage Limited Edition Monochrome
Piaget Andy Warhol Watch Collage Oct 20, 2025

First Look - The New Piaget Andy Warhol Watch Collage Limited Edition

Last November, Piaget announced a licensed collaboration with The Andy Warhol Foundation for the Visual Arts. This allowed the brand to officially rename its cult 1970s black tie dress watch “The Andy Warhol Watch“. Indeed, the revolutionary artist and undisputed king of Pop Art, was the owner of seven Piaget watches, including a 45mm yellow gold […]

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SJX Podcast: The Titanium Episode SJX Watches
Cartier Santos Oct 20, 2025

SJX Podcast: The Titanium Episode

On Episode 15 of the SJX Podcast, Brandon shares insights picked up at Citizen’s Super Titanium event in Paris, where he had the opportunity to speak with the brand’s materials engineer. Still on the theme of titanium, SJX shares his views on the new Cartier Santos in the lightweight metal, and the different strategies of these brands which are playing to their respective strengths. Another big story from this week is the launch of the new Petermann Bédat Reference 1825. Though it’s not made of titanium, it’s a strong third act (and a hint of what’s next) for the brand. Is there still white space in the market for highly finished time-only watches? Listen on Apple Podcasts, Spotify, and Youtube.  

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