Two Broke Watch Snobs
One of Our Favorite Microbrands Just Gave Its GMT Watch a Serious Upgrade
Baltic just made its cult-favorite Aquascaphe GMT a more capable travel watch with a flyer GMT, tougher case, and one unexpected change.
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Two Broke Watch Snobs
Worn & Wound
Review: the H. Moser Pioneer Centre Seconds Arctic Blue
Ask me on any random day to name my favorite indie watchmaker, and there’s a pretty good chance I’m likely to respond with H. Moser. They are all the things I like, in or out of watches: kind of provocative, colorful, approachable, fun, and can be viewed as either completely understated or ridiculously ostentatious (OK that last one is more or less exclusive to watches). They were an early fixation for me as I began to discover higher end independent watchmaking in earnest, so their whole vibe has imprinted on me somewhat, and I’m a little biased by the sheer amount of time I’ve spent thinking about the brand. But the thing is, they’ve changed a lot, even just in the last few years, and the brand that felt fresh and irreverent to me a decade ago feels, well, different now. And the watch I got to spend a good chunk of the summer with is a reflection of those changes, both positive and (maybe?) negative. I’ve been wanting to spend some real time with the Pioneer Center Seconds in 40mm since the watch was introduced a few years ago. I had previously reviewed the Pioneer “Mega Cool,” which came in the 43mm Pioneer case, which at that time was the only size available for Moser’s sporty, everyday option. I liked that watch quite a bit on the strength of its dial, but the case was just too big and unwieldy for my taste. The 40mm Pioneer was something a lot of people were waiting for, and it kind of boggles the mind that they’re still making the watch in 43mm...
Monochrome
Introducing - The Armin Strom Dual Time GMT Resonance Manufacture Edition Blue
The Dual Time GMT Resonance is one of Armin Strom’s signature creations, first launched in 2018, revisited in 2024 and presented in several distinctive editions, including the steel-cased Black Edition, the rose-gold version with a black-and-gold dial, and, most recently, the Aventurine edition. Now, the new Dual Time GMT Resonance Manufacture Edition Blue offers a […]
Two Broke Watch Snobs
DOXA Finally Made the Titanium Dive Watch I’d Actually Buy
DOXA brings Grade 5 titanium to the regular SUB 300 lineup, with five dial colors, COSC certification, and pricing starting at $3,190.
Deployant
Live from GWD26: David Candaux DC6 Wildfire | Hands-on Impressions
I dropped by the David Candaux suite and handled their latest creation - the DC6 Wildfire. Here are my hands-on impressions.
Monochrome
Introducing - Hand-Hammered Dials for the Gerald Charles Masterlink Atelier Edition
Gerald Charles, a brand founded by the late watch designer Gérald Genta in 2000 and backed by the Italian Zivani family, was revived by Federico Zivani after the designer’s death and reappeared in 2020 with an idiosyncratic Genta design from 2006. Known as the Maestro, the asymmetric baroque-style case is the backbone of the brand. […]
WristBuzz
Breitling Navitimer B09 Chronograph 41 Tribute to Miles Davis: 500 Pieces for the Centennial
Breitling goes back to the ref. 806 Mk5 to honor the jazz legend who actually wore one. Limited to 500 pieces in steel, with a trio set in gold and platinum for the committed.
Teddy Baldassarre
Baltic Continues Its Permanent Collection Refresh With New Aquascaphe GMT MK-II
The French microbrand introduces the Baltic Aquascaphe GMT MK-II with a revamped case, more water resistance, and a true GMT movement.
Hodinkee
Introducing: The Baltic Aquascaphe GMT MK-II
What We Know Last year, we covered Baltic's relaunch of the Aquascaphe, their vintage-leaning traditional-style diver (not to be confused with their dual-crown version). That release came in several colors and two sizes. Now they're relaunching the Aquascaphe GMT as a new Mark II version. While the aesthetic changes are more subtle than on the diver, the changes under the hood are more substantial. The Aquascaphe GMT MK-II has a subtly redesigned case profile (39.5mm by 13.8mm, 316L stainless steel, with a 47mm lug-to-lug), with the most distinguishing feature being the new crown guards that make the case distinctly more modern. The rest of the case has been reworked (it is 0.5mm wider and 0.8mm thicker), with vertical brushing on the lugs and 200m water resistance. The watch still has a luminous 24-click GMT sapphire bidirectional bezel. The caseback engraving (which we've posted a picture of later in the story), on the other hand, is simplified from the globe design on the first version. What used to be three color variants is now four, all with glossy black dials and Super-LumiNova BGW9. One has a blue-and-light-blue bezel with light-blue dial text and a GMT hand. Another is a "Pepsi" style with red accents. The third has a blue-and-green bezel, and the last, the newest, is black and grey with orange accents. The hands and indices are a bit bolder and rounder. Inside the case, the brand has changed to a "flyer" Miyota 9075 GMT movement with a 42-hour power reserve. The ...
WristBuzz
Rolex's One-of-a-Kind Daytona Four Seasons Set Is Heading to Auction for Charity
Four gem-set Daytonas, one per season, each truly unique - and every penny goes to the Federer Foundation and Re:wild
SJX Watches
Breaking News: Rolex Unique Daytona Set “Four Seasons” to be Sold for Charity
Rolex continues to surprise with the announcement of the Daytona “Four Seasons” charity auction that will take place soon in London. This marks the public debut of the fantastical, gem-set – and unique – Cosmograph Daytona watches that were discreetly revealed earlier this year. Conducted by Phillips, the auction will benefit Federer Foundation and Re:wil, the charities founded by Roger Federer and Leonardo DiCaprio respectively. All proceeds from the sale will be split evenly between the charities. Details on the event are still scarce, but well placed sources have given us some exclusive information. The venue will be a beautifully restored colonial building that is now a lavish hotel. Several hundred guests will be in attendance at a gala dinner where the auction will take place. More importantly, the watches will be sold individually, rather than as a set. In other words, the auction will be made up of four lots. This is the first public announcement of these four watches, which were quietly debuted during Watches & Wonders 2026. Like the Rolex inclined plane clock, the Daytona quartet was on show on an upper floor of the Rolex booth, but no photos were allowed. Though no one will comment officially on the expected result, I can imagine there’s only one number on the minds of everyone responsible for this sale, and that is CHF31 million. That record was set in a different time, different place, by different people, but who knows? For more, visit Rolex.com.
Two Broke Watch Snobs
$1k vs. $10k Dive Watch: Hands-On With the Mido Ocean Star 200 & Rolex Submariner
See how the Mido Ocean Star 200 stacks up against the Rolex Submariner after hands-on testing, and whether the Rolex is really worth $9K more.
Time+Tide
The Atelier Wen x Massena LAB Inflection Shuò pairs tremblage dials with tantalum
The Atelier Wen x Massena LAB Inflection Shuò pairs hand-engraved gold dials, a tantalum case and a customised Girard-Perregaux movement.
Monochrome
First Look - The Alpina Seastrong Diver Extreme Automatic Route du Rhum in Turquoise
After recent releases like the Startimer Pilot IFR Chronograph and the slimmer Startimer Pilot Automatic models, Alpina is back with a new watch. The all-new Seastrong Diver Extreme Automatic Route du Rhum edition is another iteration of the Seastrong Diver Extreme Automatic introduced in 2024. This was an interesting release because it brought together Alpina’s […]
Time+Tide
Gallet is relaunching with three full collections ready for the modern adventurer
A 200-year-old brand, Gallet is now back as the third part of The House of Brands and is acting as its welcome starting point.
Teddy Baldassarre
Gallet Watches Reborn at 200: What You Need to Know About the Brand's Modern Revival
The Breitling-backed relaunch aims for a tool-and-travel theme at "affordable luxury" pricing. More
Hodinkee
Introducing: Gallet Multichron Pilot
What We Know Today, amongst a slate of other launches and re-releases, Gallet — now a part of the Breitling "House of Brands" — lifted the curtain on the Gallet Multichron Pilot. The new watch takes the recipe of the original 1969 Multichron Pilot and updates it, and the result is a watch that is recognizable but also, arguably, the most contemporary model in the very fresh Gallet lineup. The new watch does borrow heavily from its namesake, and seeing the two watches next to each other highlights the similarities. The new Multichron Pilot is still a tri-compax chronograph, with a bi-directional twelve-hour bezel, pump pushers, stick hands, and cut-off arrow-shaped markers. By way of comparison, a vintage Gallet Multichron Pilot. Image, courtesy Analog Shift. But there are definite differences too, many of which are concessions to modern taste. For one thing, those cut-off arrow-shaped indices are now lumed instead of polished, but there's also a date — visible through an aperture at 6 o'clock — and while the telemeter remains on the new watch, the tachymeter (which appeared as a second scale on vintage examples) is omitted. The watch is also bigger than vintage Multichrons. The new watch has been upsized from 38 to 42mm, is 11.3mm thick, and measures 45.59mm lug-to-lug. At that size, the new Multichron Pilot is the largest watch in the new Gallet catalog but is still quite reasonable and a far cry from some of the oversized watches that still seem to populate Bre...
Hodinkee
Introducing: The Gallet Flying Officer
What We Know As we walked around Geneva on day one of Geneva Watch Days, we saw signs being put up for Gallet, and I thought how poetic. On the eve of the brand's relaunch, it's certainly an exciting time for fans of the brand. The parent group, House of Brands—Breitling, Universal Genève, and Gallet—already relaunched Universal Genève earlier this year and is rounding out 2026 by bringing back Gallet today, with one of the brand's most enduring models, the Flying Officer, in two variations: the Flying Officer Chronograph 40 and the Flying Officer Automatic 40. Today's reintroduced Flying Officer arrives in four dial colors across two versions, all cased in 40mm steel. Case specs are shared across the range: 20mm lug width, a screwed-in steel caseback, cambered sapphire glareproofed on both sides, and 100 meters of water resistance. The chronograph case is 15.02mm thick with a 47.55mm lug-to-lug; the three-hand case is thinner, at 10.67mm, with a 47.49mm lug-to-lug. Both versions share a bezel with a city ring listing 24 destinations, mixing major international airports with more remote locations. The Flying Officer Chronograph 40 comes in light blue or black, both with tone-on-tone subdials, and runs the Gallet 23, an automatic caliber based on the Sellita SW510. It measures 30mm in diameter and 7.9mm thick, runs at 28,800 vph (4Hz), and offers an approximate 62-hour power reserve. It offers quarter-second chronograph timing with a 30-minute counter. The Flying Offi...
Hodinkee
Introducing: Gallet Revives Vintage Fan-Favorites With New "Classics" Multichrons
What We Know When Gallet's relaunch was announced, I sat up in my chair a bit. My second cousin, once removed, has a vintage Gallet Yachting that once belonged to my great uncle, who was an avid sailor. I have fond memories of going out on my Uncle Bob's boat and sailing around the bay of Green Bay every few summers—well, fond when I was piloting and not getting seasick. All Gallet needed to do was not forget the Yachting watches of the past (and, hopefully, do a good job with the legacy), and I would be somewhat happy. Well, they did that, and a lot more. But let's start with another model first. Sitting at the top of the price range for the modern Gallet lineup, yet still below the Breitling offerings with the same movement (a key positioning for the group), are the new Gallet Classics, featuring three Multichron reissues, of sorts. All of them measure 38mm by 12.5mm with 46mm lug-to-lug, and share the same stainless steel case with slightly twisted and faceted lugs. The cases have stainless steel screw-down casebacks with sapphire displays. Despite that sapphire crystal, the entire package is rated to 100m of water resistance, protecting a Breitling B09 manually wound movement. While a bit thicker than the original Multichrons, the movement, caseback, and reliable water resistance are huge upgrades. You can see that the three watches differ only in dial treatment. At the top of this article is the only version with lume: the Tribute to Multichron 45, with a deep bla...
WristBuzz
Bulgari Goes Maximalist: The Octo Finissimo Dual Time x Vianney Halter Is the Brand's First Ever Indie Collab
A record-breaking ultra-thin line meets the retro-futurist imagination of Vianney Halter, and the result is unlike any Octo we've seen before
WristBuzz
Daniel Roth Extra Plat Rose Gold Gilt: The Revival Gets Its Best Dial Yet
A true black gilt dial meets rose gold and a hand-wound movement, and the result is exactly what this revival needed
Fratello
Fratello Talks: The Best Watches Of 2026 So Far
We’re already well into 2026, and the watch industry has given us plenty to talk about. From major releases by established manufacturers to smaller brands introducing watches that caught our attention, there has been no shortage of new things to discover. But which watches actually stand out? In this episode of Fratello Talks, Nacho is […] Visit Fratello Talks: The Best Watches Of 2026 So Far to read the full article.
SJX Watches
The Louis Vuitton Monterey Ceramic Returns
Having remade – and refined – its first-ever wristwatch, Louis Vuitton now does the same for the second. The Monterey Ceramic is a reimagining of the LV II of 1988, preserving the Gae Aulenti-designed case and dial but in modern, high-end materials and execution. As with the earlier Monterey in 18k gold, the new model in ceramic does away with the quartz movement of the 1988 original and replaces it with an in-house automatic calibre. The case has been scaled up a little to accommodate the calibre, but retains the proportions and quirky form of the original. But unlike last year’s model, the Monterey Ceramic is regular production. Initial thoughts The Monterey Ceramic is basically a more affordable iteration of last year’s limited edition in 18k gold. It retains the same design, movement, but replaces gold with ceramic (and steel), and the fired enamel dial with a lacquered one. Even with these changes, the Monterey Ceramic is still a far more sophisticated watch than its 1988 inspiration. I like the styling of the 1988 originals, and the modern-day reissues both manage to capture the look and feel of the originals. The Monterey Ceramic in particular sticks to the case diameter of the original, albeit a little thicker, but sticks closely enough to the proportions of the LV II. The Monterey Ceramic is priced like a modern-day luxury watch, but it has the intrinsic features to justify the price. The Monterey Ceramic costs €19,000 before taxes, which is less than a ...
Deployant
Live from GWD26: Girard-Perregaux Laureato Fifty Tourbillon | Hands-on Impressions
I also dropped by Girard-Perregaux and was presented the Laureato Fifty Tourbillon Micro-Rotor. Here is my hands-on impressions.
Worn & Wound
Bulgari Taps the Independent Talent of Vianney Halter for Its Next Octo Finissimo
Since its inception in 2014, Bulgari’s Octo Finissimo line has propelled the Maison into the realm of serious watchmaking, a rare accomplishment for a brand whose origins are deeply rooted in jewelry making. In just over a decade, the models have gone on to break numerous world records (10 to be exact) and take on countless forms from highly complicated versions to ones that play with a range of materials. Along the way, Bulgari has called upon several artists across various mediums to collaborate on designs, resulting in co-created editions with names like Tadao Ando, Lee Ufan, and Mo Coppoletta. Now, for the first time, Bulgari has looked within the industry to partner with another watchmaker, tapping independent Vianney Halter for the next evolution of the iconic Octo. Although this recent collaboration hails from the expertise of two watchmakers, other artforms still come into play, namely the element of sculpture. Bulgari has long been vocal about the influences of Roman art, architecture, and design in its creations. Similarly, Vianney Halter draws inspiration from other modalities, which informs the three dimensional and industrial design language that brings a sculptural nature to his timepieces. These shared values and visions align in the new Octo Finissimo Dual Time x Vianney Halter. When I think of the aesthetic codes of both Bulgari and Vianney Halter, they are bold, clearly defined, and instantly recognizable. At first glance, reading the headline of the pr...
Hodinkee
Introducing: The H. Moser & Cie. Streamliner Tourbillon Skeleton Ceramic Alpine Limited Edition
What We Know If H. Moser is guaranteed to do anything, it's to surprise us. A watch made out of cheese. A watch inspired by the Reebok "Pump." Those are easier to process because they're fun and a bit silly. But when Moser signed a deal to be a sponsor of Alpine's Formula 1 team, it was even more surprising to me. That's a serious sponsorship for a brand that makes far fewer than 5,000 watches a year and doesn't charge Richard Mille prices. But Moser is taking full advantage of the platform and turning out very sporty watches, including this new collaboration. This isn't the first collaboration between the brands; it began with a surprising smartwatch for the pit crew, paired with a skeletonized chronograph. Pierre Gasly (one of Alpine's drivers) also got his own limited edition. But this one takes the automotive inspiration in a different direction: lightweight and with all the Alcantara you could want (maybe even more). While Moser has done a Streamliner tourbillon in ceramic before, that watch came with a full dial and a ceramic bracelet. The 40mm by 12.8mm case is made of anthracite grey ceramic, but now it comes with an integrated light blue Alcantara strap, a synthetic microfiber material with a soft, suede-like texture. If you're into cars, you've run into this material a lot. Unlike the previous release, this is the first skeleton-flying tourbillon version of the Streamliner, made in ceramic. Powered by the HMC 814, the watch has blue-toned plates with diamond...
Monochrome
Introducing - H. Moser & Cie. Streamliner Tourbillon Skeleton Ceramic Alpine Limited Edition
H. Moser & Cie. and Alpine Motorsports continue their collaboration with a new creation, following the Streamliner Cylindrical Tourbillon Skeleton Alpine Limited Edition and the more performance-oriented Alpine Drivers and Alpine Mechanics editions. The new Streamliner Tourbillon Skeleton Ceramic Alpine Limited Edition becomes only the second H. Moser & Cie. watch to use ceramic, after […]
Fratello
A Ceramic Makeover For The H. Moser & Cie. Streamliner Tourbillon Skeleton - An Alpine Limited Edition
There is something particularly Moser about taking a watch already built around an absurd amount of visible mechanics and deciding that what it really needs is a ceramic case. Today, I’m taking a look at the new H. Moser & Cie. Streamliner Tourbillon Skeleton Ceramic Alpine Limited Edition. It’s the third project born from the […] Visit A Ceramic Makeover For The H. Moser & Cie. Streamliner Tourbillon Skeleton — An Alpine Limited Edition to read the full article.
Two Broke Watch Snobs
Is a $40 Digital Watch Actually Better Than a $20 Casio? F-91W vs. Elektronika 55B
We compare the Casio F-91W and KommandoStore Elektronika 55B hands-on to see whether spending more actually buys a better cheap digital watch.
Hodinkee
Introducing: The Doxa Sub 300 Ti5
What We Know Okay, let's do this one last time, yeah? For real this time. This is it. At least, I think this is it, because Doxa has yet another new watch (actually, a whole collection of 'em), and it's one a lot of people have been asking for. But before we get to that, a quick recap, because this year, Doxa has dropped (by my count and in rough order): the oversized Sub 750T, the new Sub 200 T.Graph II, the limited edition Sub 300 Ti5 Clive Cussler, a LE Sub 200 T.Graph II with Topper, a Sub Army 200T (in collaboration with Hodinkee), and — just over a week ago — the very cool Doxa Sub 300 Beta "Frogger" in collaboration with San Diego's Belmont Watches. So, it's been a big year, and now they're rounding out the summer with a hell of a line expansion with the — now standard production — Doxa Sub 300 Ti5. Basically, this new watch takes the Sub 300 Ti5 Clive Cussler released earlier in the summer and strips out all the 'Cussler-y' details. The result is… well, it's basically a Sub 300 in titanium, something I've heard plenty of Doxa fans clamoring for since the Cussler edition launched earlier this summer. Unlike the Cussler model (which was limited to just 300 pieces) and played just a little bit more with the format of the Sub 300, this new Sub 300 Ti5 pretty much follows the recipe to the letter. Even the dimensions are identical to the standard steel Sub 300, measuring 42.5mm across, 13.4mm thick, and 45mm lug-to-lug (in other words, perfect). The dial and b...