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Monochrome
Ressence is renowned for its dynamic, no-hand display of the time. Animated by the brand’s patented Orbital Convex System (ROCS), time circles around the dial like planets orbiting the Sun. Ressence’s Type 9, its most compact, spartan, and accessibly priced watch, was introduced in 2024. Not only was it the smallest model in the brand’s […]
Fratello
It seems like Ressence’s Type 9 is in high demand, at least when it comes to limited editions. At the end of last year, Benoît Mintiens, the founder of Ressence, introduced the minimalist Type 9. With a 39mm case, it’s the brand’s smallest watch, and it comes with either an aqua blue or gray dial. […] Visit Meet The Tailor-Made Ressence × The Armoury Type 9 Scattering Sun to read the full article.
SJX Watches
Seiko adds a new limited-edition to its line of affordable dress watch with the Presage Classic Series Upcycled Leather Strap that sports knurled bezel, golden-brown gradient dial, and with a leather strap made from shoe leather offcuts supplied by Regal, a Japanese shoemaker best known for its leather dress shoes. Initial Thoughts Though strange on the surface, the Seiko Presage and Regal tie-up makes sense. Both are affordable, solid offerings in their respective segments, and also distinctly Japanese. Notably, Regal is launching the saddle shoes that produced the offcuts later this week. The watch itself is a good looking iteration of Seiko’s familiar entry-level dress watch. The bezel and smoked dial are a pleasing combination that set this apart from most Presage models. Seiko didn’t mention the impetus for this collaboration in press materials; I suspect geography was a part. Regal builds its top of the line shoes in the town of Morioka, near Morioka Seiko Instruments, the heart of Seiko’s domestic mechanical watch production. That proximity lends a lot of authenticity to the collaboration for me, and I wish it were part of Seiko’s messaging, though I understand most consumers don’t care. At the same time, Regal is little known outside Japan, but its shoes are a fixture in major Japanese department stores. The transient nature of leather straps is arguably a shortcoming in watches like the new Presage, or the Kodo Constant Force Tourbillon at the other en...
SJX Watches
De Bethune narrows the diameter of the bestselling DB25 Starry Varius but broadens its horizons with an entrancing red-leaning-purple dial achieved by heating titanium. And it’s more than just a pretty face, the DB25xs Starry Varius packs one of the most advanced two-hand manual wound calibres on the market. Initial Thoughts A personal favourite of mine, the Starry Varius line is gorgeous, technically adept, and meaningfully customisable. De Bethune justifies this variant as representing the night sky after a volcanic eruption, and colour perfectly matches viral, and hauntingly beautiful, images taken after the Tonga volcano eruption in 2022. As a chronometry-focused movement that paradoxically lacks a seconds hand, I find the cal. DB2005 very interesting. I’d even argue it makes sense as the six-day power reserve paints it as an endurance timekeeper. It’s also more technically interesting than most of the – very finely decorated – three handers from younger independents, even if Be Bethune’s R&D; efforts have dwindled recently. Under A Sea of Stars The dials are mirror polished titanium, which De Bethune heat oxidises for colour. While the brand’s specific method is proprietary, the thickness of this oxide layer determines which wavelengths of light transmit back to the observer, and this Burgundy dial must have a thinner oxide layer than the brand’s typical blue. Next, artisans set dozens of tiny gold pins into the dial to marks starts, before a micro-mill...
Monochrome
Seiko’s latest Presage Classic Series looks back at the late Edo period (specifically the Bunsei era, 1818-1830) with a gradient dial shade that was popular at the time. Perhaps even more emphasis is given to the straps that highlight upcycling with the use of leather offcuts from fine shoemaking. Inspiration was taken from the signature […]
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WatchAdvice
TAG Heuer has released a new look Carrera that is very different to the standard racing-inspired models. The Carrera Astronomer is designed to cast your eyes to the heavens with its new moonphase complication, and we’ve gone hands-on for a review. What We Love The dial design is unique and looks great Very easy to wear and comfortable 39mm size The Beads of Rice bracelet elevates this piece What We Don’t Lack of lume on the dial No micro-adjust on the clasp A date display could have added to the functionality Overall Rating: 8.4 / 10 Value for Money: 8/10 Wearability: 8/10 Design: 9/10 Build Quality: 8.5/10 For TAG Heuer’s first outing at Geneva Watch Days, it has released some very cool pieces, one of which (well, three really) is the TAG Heuer Carrera Astronomer. A new take on the traditional moonphase complication, TAG Heuer has set out to embark on a new phase for the famous Carrera line. It has introduced three different variations of the Carrera Astronomer – A 500-piece limited edition with grey dial accents and leather strap, a seconds 500-piece limited edition two-tone steel and 18k rose gold plated model, and this, which I’m reviewing today – the full stainless steel model as part of the core collection. The new TAG Heuer Carrera Astronomer Collection with two limited edition pieces on leather and in two-tone, and the full steel core collection model But why an astronomical complication in the Carrera? So, in 1962, a significant moment in both watc...
![Introducing: The Ulysse Nardin Freak [X Crystalium]](https://hodinkee.imgix.net/uploads/images/8f0bba68-227d-4c73-8750-d05bc9752ec5/Ulysse-Nardin-freak-crystalium-hero.jpg?ixlib=rails-1.1.0&fm=jpg&q=55&auto=format&usm=12&w=1200&h=630&fit=crop)
Hodinkee
UN's latest Freak variant uses a controlled crystallization process to create unique dial textures, making each of the 50 pieces completely one-of-a-kind.
SJX Watches
A. Lange & Söhne has just unveiled the fourth livery for the Richard Lange Jumping Seconds, now featuring a pink gold dial. The Jumping Seconds made its debut in 2016, but its unusual feature set and harmonious layout remain impressive nine years later. The new model is a 100-piece limited edition in 18k white gold and features what collectors will no-doubt refer to as a ‘salmon’ dial. But unlike most ‘salmon’ dials that are plated, the dial of the Jumping Seconds is solid 18k pink gold. In other words, its colour is more than skin-deep. Initial thoughts Though it feels like we must be on the tail end of the trend toward salmon dials, Lange’s pink gold dials always look good and might stir up interest in what still feels like an underrated watch. Nearly a decade after launch, the Richard Lange Jumping Seconds remains one of the great regulator-style wristwatches. There’s an extraordinary coherence at play between the design, which references a historical German pocket watch and elevates the deadbeat seconds display, and the movement, which features a one-second remontoir and a return-to-zero mechanism. As ever, the Jumping Seconds presents a wearable 39.9 mm case in 18k white gold, and at just 10.6 mm thick it’s pretty sleek for a watch with so much going on inside. Like its stablemates, it features the characteristic Lange case with a brushed case band and faceted lugs that are attached separately. The L094.1 movement fills the case beautifully, and differ...
Worn & Wound
When I started collecting watches many years ago, I vividly remember stumbling upon a blog discussing YES and their array of unique and technologically advanced watches. I’m typically not someone who utilizes many of the functions on a watch besides the basic time and date keeping, but when I saw how complicated the dial and modes were on these, I knew I would have to own at least one at some point. Now with two different models in my collection, I wish I could go back and thank the author of that blog for steering me in the right direction all those years prior. For those of you who haven’t seen or heard of YES before, allow me to shed light on them just like that blog did. A Brief History of the Company For a more in-depth rundown on how YES came to be, I highly recommend reading the writeup by the brand’s founder himself, Bjorn Kartomten, featured on their website. Here, I want to instead offer some insight on the brand’s models and technological innovations rather than the nuts and bolts of how the brand came to be. As I’m sure you’ve already been able to gather by the included photos thus far, these aren’t your typical three-handers. Throughout YES’ catalog are watches boasting equinox and solstice alerts, lunar phase information, daylight and nighttime readouts and estimates, sun and moon calculators to show lunar data for any locations between the years 2000 and 2100, high and low tide indicators, phase elapse countdown timers, compasses, alarms,...
Monochrome
Trilobe, the young French indie brand, is marking its seventh anniversary with the release of the Trente-Deux, a luxury sports watch collection that retains the unconventional time display created by the brand’s founder, Gautier Massonneau. While the dial borrows design cues from the Nuit Fantastique, the sporty yet elegant stainless steel case and integrated bracelet […]
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SJX Watches
The latest iteration of Ulysse Nardin’s most affordable Freak is the Freak X Crystalium, a limited edition that blends the disruptive Freak aesthetic with a novel decorative element in the form of a dial in Crystalium. Though it has an almost organic look, Crystalium is actually the result of crystallised ruthenium deposited via physical vapour deposition (PVD). The advanced, unusual material is decorative, yet harks back to the Freak’s origins as a materials pioneer. Initial thoughts The Freak has been a core collection in Ulysse Nardin’s roster since the first model was launched back in 2001. The line has been defined by disruptive and bold technical construction and a pioneering use of silicon. But lately it feels watered down; the Freak X dials back on the exotic tech to make the iconic design more attainable. And the many iterations of the Freak X don’t help its case. But paradoxically the new Freak X is a return to one of the core values of the Freak series: materials science. Ulysse Nardin experimented with all sorts of materials over the years with the Freak as a platform, ranging from the DIAMonSIL escapement to silicon movement bridges to mono block oscillators. The Freak X Crystalium employs new material, but this time it serves an aesthetic function as opposed to a mechanical one. The large rotating disk which serves as the dial’s foundation is covered in an organic-seeming, quartz-like glittering surface that’s the result of years of research. ...
SJX Watches
The reborn Gérald Genta has just unveils a simply-titled complicated watch, the Minute Repeater. Although a new design, the striking timepiece harks back to Gérald Genta’s golden age in the late 20th century, in both style and quality of execution. The case takes a clean, cushion-shaped form, while the dial is glossy black onyx. And inside ticks the GG-002, a hand-wind movement derived from the longstanding repeater movement made by Louis Vuitton La Fabrique du Temps (LFT), the parent of Gérald Genta. Though not a limited edition, the yearly output will be limited to 10 pieces. Initial thoughts Big-name brand revivals are not always successful endeavours, since it is often difficult for new patrons to recapture the spirit and style of the original, while also making it financially viable. Gérald Genta is clearly an exception. It was relaunched in 2023 by Louis Vuitton, allowing it to lean more towards genuine quality rather than a flash in the pan. The Minute Repeater is a welcome and original addition to the brand’s collection, embodying the late Genta’s instinctive design flair and aesthetic sensibilities, while being a new(ish) design. An especially pleasant surprise is the original case shape that certainly looks very Gérald Genta, but wasn’t previously in the catalogue, though Genta did pen similar cases in the past. In other words, this is not a remake. The shape sits between an ellipse and a rounded rectangle, capturing the gist of the 1970s design we...
Hodinkee
A natural onyx dial and lab-grown diamonds combines with a modernized take on the Disco Volante for an attractive-and limited-release. We look at the history of precious stone indices and historical takes on the "flying saucer" design.
Fratello
One of last year’s most surprising releases was Furlan Marri’s Disco Volante series. The trio of watches stylishly revived a classic case shape we rarely see these days. Now, Furlan Marri introduces the next Disco Volante model for Geneva Watch Days 2025. But it’s not just another dial color. For this new Disco Diamonds Onyx, […] Visit Furlan Marri Unveils The Striking New Disco Diamonds Onyx to read the full article.
Quill & Pad
In celebration of MB&F;’s 20th anniversary in 2025, two LM101 EVO editions are introduced in titanium, available with either a salmon or peacock green dial plate.
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Monochrome
As its name suggests, the Czapek Antarctique Rattrapante R.U.R is an evolution of the dial-side split-seconds chronograph presented in 2021. You might be wondering what lies behind the cryptic R.U.R acronym? Well, the word “robot” comes from the Czech “robota,” meaning “forced labour” or “serfdom,” and it was popularised by another famous Czech-born personality with […]
SJX Watches
One of the headline releases from Geneva Watch Days is, without question, the Berneron Quantième Annuel, a symmetrical annual calendar that brings the brand’s vision into sharper focus. Expensively made and cleverly designed inside and out, the Quantième Annuel is a showcase for founder Sylvain Berneron’s attention to detail. A limited run of 480 pieces in platinum, with production spaced evenly over the next decade, the Quantième Annuel is available in two dial configurations; whether the buyer opts for lacquered silver or piano black, the dial itself, along with much of the movement, is crafted from 18k gold. Initial thoughts I’ve written effusively about user-friendly complications in the past so it should come as no surprise that I like the Quantième Annuel’s legible display and intuitive interface. Visually, it’s a world apart from the oozy Mirage, but it exhibits a similar degree of intellectual sophistication and attention to detail. A jumping hour watch with an instantaneous annual calendar, the Quantième Annuel is distinguished by its oversized windows for the hour, day, and month, with a sector-style dial for the minutes and a concentric retrograde date display. The running seconds dial at six o’clock contains the fourth jumping window for the day/night indicator; a useful addition for any calendar watch. The watch is designed for easy legibility, with the time read top-to-bottom and the date read left-to-right. The sector dial for the minute han...
Deployant
Zenith has expanded its Chronomaster Sport collection with the release of the Meteorite edition, a stainless steel chronograph featuring a dial crafted from genuine extraterrestrial material. Previously available only in Japan, this model is now offered globally through Zenith boutiques and authorized retailers. Priced at $17,500, the watch combines Zenith’s high-frequency El Primero 3600 movement with a unique Widmanstätten-patterned meteorite dial, aiming to balance technical precision with visual distinctiveness.
Worn & Wound
Buying your first vintage watch is a little like stepping into a time machine. Every case has patina earned over decades, every dial tells a story of design choices made in another era, and every movement keeps time with the stubborn persistence of mechanical ingenuity. For three days this August, the Windup Watch Shop showroom in Brooklyn will become exactly that kind of space-an immersive experience curated by The Watch Preserve. Buying your first vintage watch is a little like stepping into a time machine. Every case has patina earned over decades, every dial tells a story of design choices made in another era, and every movement keeps time with the stubborn persistence of mechanical ingenuity. For three days this August, the Windup Watch Shop showroom in Brooklyn will become exactly that kind of space-an immersive experience curated by The Watch Preserve. The post The Watch Preserve Brings Vintage to the Windup Watch Shop Brooklyn Showroom Aug 28, 29 & 30 appeared first on Worn & Wound.
Monochrome
Scrolling through Arnold & Son’s portfolio reveals a neat mix of classical watchmaking codes and contemporary touches across all collections. One of the finest examples is the DSTB 42, which reveals its jumping seconds mechanism smack-bang on the dial. That’s also the reasoning behind its name, by the way, as DSTB refers to Dial Side […]
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Monochrome
Since its debut just two years ago, the Multifort TV collection by Mido has been making quite a splash with its strong presence, solid mechanics and accessible prices. Things started in 2023 with the blue dial Multifort TV Big Date, and since it has become available in a range of colours and finishes, and even […]
WatchAdvice
It was only a matter of time before Zenith added a meteorite dial to the Chronomaster Sport collection, and now, they have! We’ve gone hands-on with it to test it out on launch. What We Love The meteorite dial, obviously! The El Primero movement The versatility of the watch itself What We Don’t The subdials can blend into the grey meteorite dial The bracelet still needs improving Lack of lume on the dial Overall Rating: 8.6 / 10 Value For Money: 8.5/10 Design: 8.5/10 Wearability: 9/10 Build Quality: 8.5/10 Believe it or not, this is the first time I’m officially reviewing the Zenith Chronomaster Sport. And lucky me, it just so happens to be the newly released meteorite dial version. Ok, it’s not that I haven’t worn the Zenith Chronomaster Sport before, I gave my thoughts on the green dial variant post its release at LVMH Watch Week in 2024, and then I subsequently took it on tour with me to New Zealand to see how it holds up as a watch you can travel and holiday with. But I never reviewed it in the true sense of the word, or gave it a rating. Until now. Hot off the press, or should I say, from the Manufacture in Le Locle is the new Zenith Chronomaster Sport Meteorite Dial. The new Zenith Chronomaster Sport Meteorite Dial Meteorite dials are nothing new, but they do transform the look of a watch. The use of meteorite also elevates the price, too, thanks to the difficulty in working with the rock, not to mention the obvious fact that you’re not just creating ...
Monochrome
Favre Leuba was never shy to bring colour and character to its watches, and the Chief Chronograph is no exception. Launched in 2024 as a modern revival of the brand’s 1970s designs, the new models got noticed with their distinctive looks and rather complex dial construction. Now, the line welcomes two fresh references, presented in […]
Deployant
Jaquet Droz releases the Tourbillon Skelet Red Gold with a metiérs d'art dial featuring the Catrina Skull, an incarnation of the Mexican Day of the Dead.
Worn & Wound
Of all the artisanal specialities in watchmaking, case engraving has to be among the most obscure and unheralded. I think there are a few reasons for this. One, the dial is where the action is on most watches, and applying a time consuming artistic craft on the case might be seen by some watchmakers as a waste of valuable time. Another factor is that to a large extent, we’ve all been trained to appreciate a particular type of case finishing. We see crisp transitions between brushed and polished surfaces, and that registers as being of a certain level of quality that we expect in a luxury watch. If those elements aren’t there, even if they’re substituted by something that might be visually striking, our reptile brains feel like there’s something missing. The latest in Louis Erard’s ongoing Métiers d’Art series, however, is a good opportunity to appreciate complex case engraving in a new way. The whole idea behind how Louis Erard approaches Métiers d’Art, and to a certain extent the brand’s focus more generally, is to make craft accessible. The new Gravée Main is perhaps their most ambitious attempt in this area to date. Virtually every steel surface (the case, bezel, lugs, crown, and buckle) is hand engraved. According to the brand, each watch takes upwards of 50 hours to engrave by hand, and only 99 will be made. Engraving is one of those things that really comes alive when you look at it closely and imagine that painstaking work that went into creat...
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