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Above the Date Window: Steve McQueen's Monaco and What Sotheby's Catalogues Really Tell You

How a sliver of dial real estate above the date window decodes provenance on every screen-worn Heuer Monaco that has passed through Sotheby's and Phillips.

The Lanco Alarm: Appreciating Langendorf’s Innovative and Overlooked Single-Crowned Mechanical Alarm Worn & Wound
Jaeger-LeCoultre Poljot Girard-Perregaux Citizen Bulova Jun 17, 2025

The Lanco Alarm: Appreciating Langendorf’s Innovative and Overlooked Single-Crowned Mechanical Alarm

It’s no secret that the visuals of a watch are often why collectors pull the trigger on adding yet another piece to their collection. It could be a specific color, the inclusion of a certain desirable bezel insert, the symmetry of a double register chronograph, or many other aesthetic reasons. This isn’t to say that the movement and build quality are not also a part of this decision-making process, but one of the chief reasons many of us love to collect is for the joy we feel putting one on wrist, potentially matching it with an outfit, and gawking at it throughout our busy days. What I wish to do here is move away from this mindset and instead appreciate how mechanical ingenuity can produce the same amount of excitement and allure. This Lanco Alarm watch may seem relatively lackluster at first glance. A simplistic silver case and dial with very few flashy or notable design choices, it could be easily mistaken for dozens of watches and brands who sold timepieces in the 1960s and 70s. Its most interesting characteristic is perhaps what’s most unremarkable on any other vintage dress piece: the use of a single crown.  By the 1960s, brands like Vulcain, Jaeger-LeCoultre, Poljot, Girard-Perregaux, Citizen, Bulova, and Helbros had released their own alarm watches, many of which utilized movements made by outside movement manufactures like A. Schild and Venus. The common denominator between these models and movements was the two crown layout: one typically adjusted and wou...

Introducing – The Bremont Supermarine 500m, now in Stainless Steel Monochrome
Bremont Supermarine 500m now Jun 17, 2025

Introducing – The Bremont Supermarine 500m, now in Stainless Steel

With Davide Cerrato at the helm, British brand Bremont has streamlined its collections into three thematic outdoor arenas: Land (Terra Nova), Sea (Supermarine) and Air (Altitude). Bremont’s Supermarine dive watch collection underwent a radical makeover and resurfaced as the Supermarine 300 in 40mm cases, followed by the formidable Supermarine 500m in larger 43mm cases. First […]

First Look – The Blancpain Fifty Fathoms Automatic, now Available in Compact 38mm Cases Monochrome
Blancpain Fifty Fathoms Automatic now Jun 17, 2025

First Look – The Blancpain Fifty Fathoms Automatic, now Available in Compact 38mm Cases

One of the earliest dive watches, the Blancpain Fifty Fathoms has long been one of the most emblematic models available on the market. In 2007, the classic Fifty Fathoms Automatique (ref. 5015) arrived with its large (even oversized) 45mm case and calibre 1315 – two fundamental elements of the permanent collection. And this size has […]

The New Amida Digitrend Open Sapphire Takes Its Hood Off For Summer Fratello
Jun 17, 2025

The New Amida Digitrend Open Sapphire Takes Its Hood Off For Summer

In its original form, the Amida Digitrend is already quite an impressive wristwatch. Its unusual shape and size make it the perfect conversation starter. And that’s not even considering the dial with the sapphire prism and the jump-hour module behind it. Well, get ready for an even bolder iteration because here’s the new Amida Digitrend […] Visit The New Amida Digitrend Open Sapphire Takes Its Hood Off For Summer to read the full article.

Ressence Fills the Type 9 with Sand for Seddiqi’s 75th Anniversary SJX Watches
Ressence Fills Jun 17, 2025

Ressence Fills the Type 9 with Sand for Seddiqi’s 75th Anniversary

Ressence is celebrating the 75th anniversary of its retailer in the United Arab Emirates, Ahmed Seddiqi & Sons, in distinctly granular manner with the quirky, sand-filled Type 9 S75. A limited edition of only 20 pieces, the S75 is based on the recently introduced Type 9, the brand’s minimalist, entry-level model. The dial is coated with sand sourced from the seven Emirates that make up the desert country in the Arabian peninsula. Initial Thoughts Typically, sand, or any sort of grit for that matter, in watches is undesirable, but Ressence is challenging that perception. The hands do not cut through the sand as it may first appear. Instead, the sand is suspended in a clear adhesive, bonding it to the titanium discs that show the time. This might be somewhat disappointing for those who hoped that Ressence had overcome the physics of materials, but perfectly logical. Filling the watch with loose sand would create a more dynamic dial, it’d also require enormous torque to push through. Since sand is a coarse and rough natural abrasive that gets everywhere, it’d likely destroy the module anyway. Past Seddiqi editions by other brands did actually have loose sand within the case, but contained within a sealed module entirely separate from the movement and dial. While the sand might seem like a gimmick on the face of it, the granular surface adds a different, earthy, and even organic, texture to the traditional Ressence aesthetic of sleek, smooth, and mechanical. Moreover, cl...

Kudoke Celebrates 20 Years with the Kudoke 2 SHH Edition SJX Watches
Jun 17, 2025

Kudoke Celebrates 20 Years with the Kudoke 2 SHH Edition

The Kudoke 2 SHH Edition celebrates 20 years of the independent brand founded by husband-and-wife Stefan and Ev Kudoke. A run of 20 pieces exclusive to Singapore retailer Sincere Fine Watches, the edition sports the “flakes” dial finish in a first for the Kudoke 2, which features a distinctive day-night indicator at 12 o’clock. Initial Thoughts Stefan Kudoke was only in his mid-twenties when he founded his eponymous brand. Kudoke’s focus on detailed, graphic hand engraving has helped the brand differentiate itself as more independents, often focusing on movement finishing and guilloche, have sprung up over the years. While the SHH Edition comes at a considerable premium to the regular production Kudoke 2, it’s easily justified by the champagne rosé dial hand engraved with a “flakes” finish. When considering both the quality and quantity of engraving, the SHH Edition maintains the competitive pricing Kudoke is known for. Dial The SHH Edition brings the “flakes” pattern dial, first launched on the Kudoke 3, to the Kudoke 2 for the first time. The dial surface is covered with hundreds of tiny divots resembling flakes, which give the dial a sparkly finish. Each “flake” is painstakingly free-hand engraved, leaving no two dials exactly alike. Similar care is given to the rotating 24-hour disk at 12 o’clock, which has a deeply engraved, rose-gold plated sun on one half, and on the other half,  a moon and stars motif that’s engraved and lumed in blue. T...

Introducing – The New Ressence TYPE 9 S75 to Celebrate Ahmed Seddiqi’s 75 Years Monochrome
Ressence TYPE 9 S75 Jun 16, 2025

Introducing – The New Ressence TYPE 9 S75 to Celebrate Ahmed Seddiqi’s 75 Years

Ressence’s partnership with Ahmed Seddiqi & Sons, UAE’s leading watch and jewellery retailer, has produced a series of limited editions over the years, each celebrating local heritage through innovative design. From the Type 1 DXB with its Arabesque-inspired grid motif to the Type 1 Slim DX2, and the Type 1 DX3 featuring traditional Girih geometric […]

Introducing: The Ressence Type 9 S75 - A Sand-Dial Limited Edition Celebrating Ahmed Seddiqi’s 75th Anniversary Fratello
Ressence Type 9 S75 - Jun 16, 2025

Introducing: The Ressence Type 9 S75 - A Sand-Dial Limited Edition Celebrating Ahmed Seddiqi’s 75th Anniversary

Benoît Mintiens of Ressence and Ahmed Seddiqi, a luxury watch and jewelry retailer in the United Arab Emirates (UAE), are back with another limited edition. This time, they used the fairly new Ressence Type 9 as their canvas and added a unique touch: the domed titanium dial is completely covered with sand. It’s not just […] Visit Introducing: The Ressence Type 9 S75 - A Sand-Dial Limited Edition Celebrating Ahmed Seddiqi’s 75th Anniversary to read the full article.

First Look – The Louis Erard x Konstantin Chaykin Regulator Time Eater III Monochrome
Louis Erard x Konstantin Chaykin Regulator Jun 16, 2025

First Look – The Louis Erard x Konstantin Chaykin Regulator Time Eater III

Watchmaking is generally considered serious business. Luckily, there are more and more brands that embrace humour. Which is not to say they are not serious about their watches; far from it. Louis Erard, under the inspired leadership of Manuel Emch, is one such brand, enlisting famous designers like Alain Silberstein to enliven models with his […]

The Living Art of the Aballe Horologium Spinale Silver Watch Bracelet Worn & Wound
Patek Philippe Nautilus acts as Jun 16, 2025

The Living Art of the Aballe Horologium Spinale Silver Watch Bracelet

We are all familiar with the concept of a grail piece. That seemingly unobtainable watch that sits saved in our search history, popping up across multiple “For You Pages” because they are always listening, taunting you as a reminder of your horological shortcomings. Well, what happens when you achieve the unthinkable? What happens when you finally have that grail watch? At some point, after swiping the watch from your nightstand and mindlessly throwing it on as you do every day, you are going to find yourself in a room with someone else who has that same quest. Yes, your watch is your watch, and each scratch is yours, and the two watches may have completely different stories. However, for production pieces, the reality is that at some point, it may not feel as unique and exciting as it did back when it sat behind Gorilla Glass. Watch modification comes into play for those special circumstances to set you apart from the select crowd.  That is where this story takes shape. Though, to be fair to the process, it had been in the works for a good while before that, living in the recesses of the artist’s brain. Milestone watches are very real for many people, especially in the financial sector. A signal of status and success, they can help signal trust to a new client while placing you on a tier list of your peers. Think business cards in American Psycho. For many at the higher tier, the Patek Philippe Nautilus acts as a trophy, as it did for Onchain Lifestyle creator GMon...

Introducing – The New Green Editions of the Moritz Grossmann Tremblage Monochrome
Moritz Grossmann Jun 16, 2025

Introducing – The New Green Editions of the Moritz Grossmann Tremblage

One of the few, if not only, women to lead an independent watch brand, Christine Hutter has steered Moritiz Grossmann down the path of refined watchmaking with low production numbers, in-house calibres, and a dedication to Schönstes deutsches Handwerk – the most beautiful German craftsmanship. First unveiled in 2021, the Tremblage model from the Benu […]

First Look – The New Jaeger-LeCoultre Polaris Chronograph with Ocean Grey Lacquer Dial Monochrome
Jaeger-LeCoultre Polaris Chronograph Jun 16, 2025

First Look – The New Jaeger-LeCoultre Polaris Chronograph with Ocean Grey Lacquer Dial

First released in 2018, the Jaeger-LeCoultre Polaris collection was designed to reintroduce a sports range alongside the brand’s classical Reverso and Master lineups. Deeply inspired by the 1968 Memovox Polaris dive watch with its alarm mechanism, there was more to the collection than just this complication, as the brand also released some pretty attractive chronographs. […]

Hands-On With The Updated And Upgraded 40mm Frederique Constant Classic Perpetual Calendar Manufacture Fratello
Frederique Constant Classic Perpetual Calendar Manufacture Jun 16, 2025

Hands-On With The Updated And Upgraded 40mm Frederique Constant Classic Perpetual Calendar Manufacture

Let’s be thankful that, in the watch world, “evolution” doesn’t always mean “getting larger.” Take the new 40mm Frederique Constant Classic Perpetual Calendar Manufacture (FC-776SAL3H6) as an example. This watch’s predecessor debuted in 2016 in a 42mm case. It was an important introduction because it was the market’s most affordable mechanical perpetual calendar watch when […] Visit Hands-On With The Updated And Upgraded 40mm Frederique Constant Classic Perpetual Calendar Manufacture to read the full article.

First Look – Celebrating its Tenth Anniversary, the Bovet 19Thirty Receives a Refreshingly Modern Face Monochrome
Bovet Jun 16, 2025

First Look – Celebrating its Tenth Anniversary, the Bovet 19Thirty Receives a Refreshingly Modern Face

Bovet, the historic Swiss brand founded in 1822, was revived by Pascal Raffy in 2001 as a temple of haute horlogerie. Since then, the brand has become synonymous with high-end complications decorated with lavish artistic flourishes. One of the more ‘straightforward’ collections in Bovet’s universe is the 19Thirty, a time-only model with a unique and […]

Contextualizing The Seiko 5 Sports SRPL83, SRPL85, SRPL87, And SRPL89 Fratello
Seiko 5 Sports SRPL83 SRPL85 Jun 16, 2025

Contextualizing The Seiko 5 Sports SRPL83, SRPL85, SRPL87, And SRPL89

Seiko unveiled the new SRPL83, SRPL85, SRPL87, and SRPL89 only a few weeks ago. The new quartet is part of the Seiko 5 Sports lineup, more specifically, the so-called “SKX series.” But with that classification comes some mental gymnastics. When Seiko introduced the 5 Sports line in 2019, the brand was adamant that the newly […] Visit Contextualizing The Seiko 5 Sports SRPL83, SRPL85, SRPL87, And SRPL89 to read the full article.

Hands-On With The New Girard-Perregaux Deep Diver Legacy Edition Fratello
Girard-Perregaux Deep Diver Legacy Edition Jun 15, 2025

Hands-On With The New Girard-Perregaux Deep Diver Legacy Edition

Admittedly, I didn’t have a retro diver from Girard-Perrergaux on my list of predictions for 2025. Yet, just a month ago, I visited our site, and a bright blue and orange watch was beaming back at me. The Deep Diver Legacy Edition proves that the Swiss brand can still get funky, even if that means […] Visit Hands-On With The New Girard-Perregaux Deep Diver Legacy Edition to read the full article.

Hands-On: The Armin Strom One Week Skeleton Titanium Is Stripped Back And Stepped Up Fratello
Armin Strom One Week Skeleton Titanium Jun 15, 2025

Hands-On: The Armin Strom One Week Skeleton Titanium Is Stripped Back And Stepped Up

I remember the first time I saw the Armin Strom One Week. It was during Geneva Watch Days in 2023, and the setting couldn’t have been more memorable. While most brands hosted their meetings in the shaded, sepia-toned suites of the Beau Rivage, Armin Strom had something different in mind. I followed the address provided […] Visit Hands-On: The Armin Strom One Week Skeleton Titanium Is Stripped Back And Stepped Up to read the full article.

Introducing: The CIGA Design Blue Planet II Atlantic Fratello
Jun 15, 2025

Introducing: The CIGA Design Blue Planet II Atlantic

CIGA Design makes distinctive-looking watches. Perfectly round cases and dials with depictions of the Earth offer something truly different in a market full of traditional timepieces. Until now, though, these planetary watches have featured the Pacific Ocean and Asia. Finally, we have a new Blue Planet II Atlantic for those connected to other parts of […] Visit Introducing: The CIGA Design Blue Planet II Atlantic to read the full article.

The Celadon Haute Horlogerie Century Cloisonné Collection - Displaying Brilliant Levels Of Chinese Craftsmanship Fratello
Jun 14, 2025

The Celadon Haute Horlogerie Century Cloisonné Collection - Displaying Brilliant Levels Of Chinese Craftsmanship

As a watch writer, I sometimes run into something truly special and different from everything else. It doesn’t happen too often, but when it does, I know immediately. When we received the timepieces from the Chinese high-horology brand Celadon, I had that feeling as soon as I unwrapped them. After seeing the dials, it was […] Visit The Celadon Haute Horlogerie Century Cloisonné Collection - Displaying Brilliant Levels Of Chinese Craftsmanship to read the full article.

Nomos Flies In Three Special-Edition Air France Collaboration Watches For The Aviations Sans Frontières Auction Fratello
Nomos Flies Jun 14, 2025

Nomos Flies In Three Special-Edition Air France Collaboration Watches For The Aviations Sans Frontières Auction

Proving the world can still be a good place, Nomos Glashütte has decided to contribute three special-edition watches to benefit Swiss-based Aviations Sans Frontières (ASF). On Wednesday, June 18th, 2025, Artcurial will hold a charity auction for ASF near Paris. Three Nomos watches with the case number AF001 will be auctioned to support the association’s […] Visit Nomos Flies In Three Special-Edition Air France Collaboration Watches For The Aviations Sans Frontières Auction to read the full article.

Hands-On Review With The New Grand Seiko Spring Drive U.F.A WatchAdvice
Grand Seiko Spring Drive U.F.A Grand Jun 14, 2025

Hands-On Review With The New Grand Seiko Spring Drive U.F.A

Grand Seiko’s Spring Drive U.F.A (SLGB003) sets a new benchmark in mechanical watchmaking with an astonishing ±20 seconds per year accuracy. Wrapped in a new slimmer Evolution 9 case and finished with a dial inspired by winter in Shinshu, it’s a masterclass in subtle innovation and timeless elegance. What We Love The Calibre 9RB2 delivers an incredible +/- 20 seconds per year, redefining what is possible from a mainspring-powered mechanical movement The new 37mm case size makes the timepiece highly wearable for a wide range of wrist sizes. The beautifully textured dial captures Grand Seiko’s unique blend of craftsmanship and storytelling. What We Don’t While very comfortable, the standard three-link bracelet feels a little too plain for a release of this calibre. For a groundbreaking caliber, the caseback view feels a little subdued. For such a significant release, the design feels a little too in line with previous Evolution 9 models. Overall Rating: 9.25 / 10 Value for Money: 9.5/10 Wearability: 9.5/10 Design: 9/10 Build Quality: 9/10 Grand Seiko was first established in 1960 as a sister brand to Seiko, created to combat the Swiss watchmakers and their high-end luxury timepieces. While Seiko made affordable everyday timepieces, It was Grand Seiko’s role to create unique, innovative pieces that would cater to the luxury and high-end watchmaking market. Among the many different innovations and stunning dial aesthetics, one key aspect that truly makes Grand S...

Hands-On: the Monta Oceanking Blue Worn & Wound
Omega Aqua Terra alternative Jun 13, 2025

Hands-On: the Monta Oceanking Blue

It has been a while since I last had a Monta watch on my wrist, so it was nice to approach this one with a fresh set of eyes. As one of the longer-standing smaller brands, Monta seems to be a bit of a known quantity at this point. They have very specific targets in both what they offer and their demographic, and seem to nail it almost every time in a very calculated way. Looking for an Omega Aqua Terra alternative for a fraction of the price? Check out the Monta Noble. You have a Rolex GMT Master II on your wishlist but can’t reasonably afford it, and need an alternative option? Well, there’s the Monta Skyquest for you. Thirsty for a Rolex Submariner but only looking to spend about one-third the retail price? Then, chances are good that you have already looked at previous iterations of the Monta Oceanking. I was in that camp almost a decade ago. Staring at older versions of the Aqua Terra online while signing up to be notified of the next restock of Monta Triumph models. No, I wouldn’t consider them one-to-one comparisons, as Monta does inject a bit of their own design language into each piece. However, while so many brands introduce new models year after year, chasing trends and sales, Monta instead takes the approach of refinement. Rather than pumping them out, they take in community feedback, look at their manufacturing capabilities and target price point, and make subtle but meaningful tweaks. That is how we’ve wound up with the Monta Oceanking in its third ver...

The Evergreens – The Complete History of the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar Monochrome
Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar Jun 13, 2025

The Evergreens – The Complete History of the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar

In watchmaking, few complications command such reverence as the perpetual calendar, and few brands have woven it into their identity as thoroughly as Audemars Piguet. While the brand’s mastery of this calendar complication dates back to the early 20th century, its true renaissance came through a most unexpected path: the Royal Oak sports watch. Let […]

Venezianico Introduces the Redentore Utopia, Featuring the Italian Made V5000 Caliber Worn & Wound
Venezianico Introduces Jun 13, 2025

Venezianico Introduces the Redentore Utopia, Featuring the Italian Made V5000 Caliber

It tends to be a big deal when a watchmaker unveils their first “in-house” movement, a pivotal milestone that often marks a step into the upmarket. For Italian brand Venezianico, tapping into the expertise of Fausto Berizzi, the technical director of OISA, was the key to their first proprietary mechanical caliber, designed, registered, and built entirely in Italy. The result is the Redentore Utopia, and its beating heart: the V5000 Caliber mechanical movement.  In a break from convention, the Redentore Utopia is more of a stage for the V5000 Caliber movement-a catalyst for the Venezianico brand and its future momentum. Still, Venezianico matches the enthusiasm of the movement with a visually-gripping timepiece that certainly doesn’t signal its status as simply a vessel for the brand’s technical growth. Wearing a 316L stainless steel case that measures at 38mm in diameter and 8.9mm in thickness, the Utopia is firmly a dress watch. The deep blue dial is constructed via ion plating and features a dazzling, hand-engraved guilloché pattern, designed exclusively for the Utopia on a rose engine lathe by master artisan Riccarfo Renzetti. The result is a radial motif that gives the appearance of being in constant motion, with light glancing off each angle as the watch is shifted on the wrist.  On the dial, baton-style, hand-applied indices line the circumference, and faceted alpha hands match the stainless steel case’s polished finish. The sole text detail on the dia...

The J&Berg; B2 Returns With Two New Dial Colors Fratello
Jun 13, 2025

The J&Berg; B2 Returns With Two New Dial Colors

Almost exactly one year ago, J&Berg;, a new Finnish brand, launched with its debut model, the B2. The watches were met with near-universal praise due to their looks, materials, and specifications. A clean, modern design that could only be described as Nordic seemed to be a crowd-pleaser. After the success of the initial references, the […] Visit The J&Berg; B2 Returns With Two New Dial Colors to read the full article.