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Introducing – An Urwerk with Central Hands…? Meet the new UR-10 Spacemeter Monochrome
Urwerk Oct 15, 2025

Introducing – An Urwerk with Central Hands…? Meet the new UR-10 Spacemeter

Now that is something paradoxical… An Urwerk watch equipped with centrally-mounted hands rotating traditionally on top of a round dial, with concentric counters underneath. That’s nothing what you’d expect to see from Urwerk, a brand known for its unconventional displays of the time with wandering hours and satellites. Look at our retrospective of the entire […]

New & Reviewed: The 2025 Updated Blancpain Villeret Ultraplate 6651 Deployant
Blancpain Villeret Ultraplate 6651 DEPLOYANT Oct 15, 2025

New & Reviewed: The 2025 Updated Blancpain Villeret Ultraplate 6651

Blancpain’s iconic Villeret collection feels like it has been around for a very long time, but officially, it’s ‘only’ existed for just over two decades. But beyond semantics, the spirit and style of the Villeret had long been established a further two decades before. In 1983, Blancpain introduced a watch that would become emblematic: theRead More

Urwerk’s UR-10 Spacemeter is Sci-Fi and Almost Conventional SJX Watches
Urwerk s UR-10 Spacemeter Oct 15, 2025

Urwerk’s UR-10 Spacemeter is Sci-Fi and Almost Conventional

Known for its avant-garde approach to watchmaking, Urwerk takes a surprise detour into orthodoxy with the UR-10 Spacemeter. At least at first glance, it is a round(-ish) sports watch with an integrated bracelet – and normal hour and minutes hands – as well as indicators you’ll find on no other watch. But conceptually, the UR-10 Spacemeter is typical Urwerk. The indicators on the dial are all astronomy related, bringing to mind past Urwerk models and the brand’s sci-fi style. Initial Thoughts Oddly, I find I find myself more impressed with the UR-10 aesthetically than technically. Urwerk has cultivated a military, sci-fi aesthetic that I’ve become enamoured with, especially the EMC. And, if the UR-10 is anything like its similarly sized and braceleted peers, it will wear well too. Then there are the dials, with ideal typography, which sit under a sapphire bubble and remind me of a flush-mounted ship’s compass. The complications are inspired by an unusual 19th-century regulator clock by Gustave Sandoz, and attempt to track both the Earth’s rotation and revolution. An interesting idea, but the execution is disappointing as the indications aren’t particularly mathematically accurate and based on arbitrary distances, like 10 km, rather than natural phenomenon like, say, a sidereal time watch, where one rotation of a sidereal hour hand corresponds to one rotation of the Earth. However, Urwerk likes to develop ideas over time, and the Spacemeter concept has potent...

First Look – Blancpain Updates its Villeret Collection with the 2025 Golden Hour Series Monochrome
Blancpain Updates Oct 15, 2025

First Look – Blancpain Updates its Villeret Collection with the 2025 Golden Hour Series

The latest Blancpain releases are classical watchmaking refined with a purpose. Long before the Villeret collection officially gained its name in 2003, Blancpain had already set the template in the early 1980s with a small, classically framed complete calendar moonphase (Cal. 6395). The look with the double-stepped bezel, Roman numerals, and slim cases became the […]

Retro Dive Watches Are Suffering From An Identity Crisis: They All Look The Same! Fratello
Tudor Black […] Visit Retro Oct 15, 2025

Retro Dive Watches Are Suffering From An Identity Crisis: They All Look The Same!

A retro watch is a modern watch evoking a style from a bygone era - usually, in the case of dive watches, the 1950s and ’60s. It’s hard to pinpoint exactly when the “Retro Age” began in the watch world, but I don’t think we’re far off by considering the introduction of the Tudor Black […] Visit Retro Dive Watches Are Suffering From An Identity Crisis: They All Look The Same! to read the full article.

Islander Watches Review Teddy Baldassarre
Oct 14, 2025

Islander Watches Review

The independent and microbrands of the watch world are often where the most interesting things are happening, but the landscape is only getting wider and the competition stronger – which is ultimately a good thing. But, with competition only growing fiercer, there are other brands that get knocked out of the spotlight, overshadowed by the current hyped brand/watch/designs of the time. Such is the case with Islander watches. But today, we’re going to help fix that and give a little extra consideration and attention to what I would call an underdog of the independent world. Down below, I’ll be walking you through what Islander Watches are all about, focusing on a case study of a couple of models, and sharing my final conclusions about how this brand fits into the wild world of watches.  Some Context Islander Watches hold an interesting position within the industry, as they are actually the house brand of Long Island Watch, and, at its core, Islander is an entirely enthusiast-driven brand. I’m sure there are plenty of those already familiar with Long Island Watch from YouTube or the digital sphere, but for those uninitiated, Long Island Watch is a New York-based watch brand founded in 2003 by Marc Frankel, a mechanical engineer who turned his passion for collecting watches into an online retailer back in 2003. Focussing on offering a really dynamic curation of affordable, hardworking, and interesting watches from nearly all genres (and often from obscure brands), Mar...

Zenith Defies Gravity (Again) to Mark 160 Years SJX Watches
Zenith Defies Gravity Again Oct 14, 2025

Zenith Defies Gravity (Again) to Mark 160 Years

Zenith’s 160th anniversary celebration continues with the Defy Zero G, a sapphire-cased watch equipped with the brand’s latest generation, gimbal-like “Gravity Control” escapement module. Available in either clear or deep blue sapphire – both with a lapis lazuli dial – the 46 mm anniversary model is a literal showcase for the innovative cal. 8812 S, which features a gimballed escapement platform that keeps the balance wheel in a horizontal position at all times. Originally developed in 2008 and refined in 2018, the Zero G mechanism is a modern homage to Zenith’s legacy in competitive chronometry and marine navigation. Initial thoughts Today, the Zenith brand is synonymous with the El Primero chronograph movement, launched back in 1969. But outside of that, the manufacture has always been a major force in Swiss precision watchmaking. For decades the brand regularly took home the top prizes at chronometry trials from Neuchâtel and Teddington. Zenith already paid tribute to its past success in competitive chronometry with the G.F.J. cal. 135, which also features a lapis lazuli dial, but it’s reassuring to see the brand made time to bring out one of its more recent developments for its anniversary year. While the days of chronometry trials are long past, Zenith has still managed to make a name for itself when it comes to the accuracy of wrist-worn timepieces - at least theoretically. Back in 2008 the brand unveiled a curious mechanism, with the escapement fu...

First Look – The Bremont Terra Nova Jumping Hour, Now in Steel Monochrome
Bremont Terra Nova Jumping Hour Oct 14, 2025

First Look – The Bremont Terra Nova Jumping Hour, Now in Steel

Bremont has a solid portfolio of rugged tool watches designed for airborne, seaborne and land exploration. Recently restructured under Davide Cerrato, Bremont’s 2024 Terrra Nova collection was the CEO’s trial by fire. With its cushion-shaped cases, vintage details, and excellent legibility, the Terra Nova collection is designed to capture the elemental spirit of yesteryear’s military […]

Introducing – A Two-Tone Steel & Gold Parmigiani Tonda PF 36mm with a Deep Ruby Dial Monochrome
Parmigiani Fleurier Oct 14, 2025

Introducing – A Two-Tone Steel & Gold Parmigiani Tonda PF 36mm with a Deep Ruby Dial

Parmigiani Fleurier, the elite watch brand founded by master restorer and watchmaker Michel Parmigiani in 1996, underwent a management change in 2021 with the appointment of Guido Terreni. Terreni’s roadmap for Parmigiani involved streamlining the collections and focusing on a new collection derived from Michel Parmigiani’s Tonda watch. Released that same year, the Tonda PF is a lineup […]

Fratello On Air: Predicting The Fortunes Of Four Brands In Five Years Fratello
Oct 14, 2025

Fratello On Air: Predicting The Fortunes Of Four Brands In Five Years

Welcome to another episode of Fratello On Air. This week, we try our hand at predicting the fortunes of four key watch brands. These makers all have great pieces in their lineups, yet we wonder if they have more in store to become absolute powerhouses. Or perhaps some of these companies will go in the […] Visit Fratello On Air: Predicting The Fortunes Of Four Brands In Five Years to read the full article.

Oris Teams Up with Cervo Volante for a Fall Appropriate Big Crown Pointer Date with a “Burnt Maple” Dial Worn & Wound
Oris Teams Up Oct 13, 2025

Oris Teams Up with Cervo Volante for a Fall Appropriate Big Crown Pointer Date with a “Burnt Maple” Dial

Most enthusiast focused brands would find themselves extremely fortunate to have a single watch or collection that achieves “icon” status with the finicky hobbyist crowd. It’s not secret that watch enthusiasts are a picky and demanding bunch, and the watches that rise to the top and achieve a level of support by consensus are genuinely pretty special. Oris, I think, has at least two watches that fall easily into this category. There’s the Divers Sixty-Five (and the newer Divers Date) that have become forum favorites and are frequently spoken of when it comes time to recommend a solid sports watch to a budding collector. And then there’s the Big Crown Pointer Date. For my money, this is the iconic Oris. While dive watches, in general, might be more popular, the pointer date is special because it fills a very specific, old-fashioned niche, and there are just fewer brands making anything similar that’s still approachable for a casual or value oriented consumer. It has, of course, been a platform for many limited and special editions over the years, and the new version seen here made in collaboration with frequent partner Cervo Volante really stands out.  Cervo Volante is a strap and leather goods maker that Oris has partnered with for a number of years now. The brand specializes in sustainably sourced deer leather, and the straps they have crafted for the Oris watches they’ve worked on are truly exceptional. Cervo Volante’s mission also folds in nicely with O...