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Results for AHCI (Académie Horlogère des Créateurs Indépendants)

3,201 articles · 296 videos found · page 4 of 117

The Affordable Custom Watchmaking of Maxim Sushkov SJX Watches
Breguet numerals as well as Jul 7, 2021

The Affordable Custom Watchmaking of Maxim Sushkov

Russian independent watchmaker Maxim Sushkov specialises in affordable custom timepieces, and has just unveiled his latest. Created for an Austrian client, the Watch Creative is a dress watch with classical elements like teardrop lugs and Breguet numerals, as well as a few striking, original details, such as the unusual, droplet-shaped hands. Initial thoughts While still niche, independent watchmaking has gained increasing traction in recent years. Its rising popularity has been accompanied with rising prices, both in the secondary market and at retail. A few watchmakers, however, continue to offer accessibly priced, original work. One such example is Mr Sushkov, who provides a channel for enthusiasts to commission one-off timepieces, appealing to collectors who fancy something unique but affordable. The Watch Creative illustrates Mr Sushkov’s work well. From the case with soldered lugs to the guilloche dial, it’s made up of a mix of stock and custom parts – with a good deal of work done by hand – resulting in a simple watch with interesting details. In fact, the custom execution make it a good value proposition at around US$4,200. This has little competition at the US$4,000 mark in a similar vein of customised watches, except for fellow Russian watchmakers like HoD (though it occasionally works with Mr Sushkov). An alternative similar priced but the complete opposite in concept is the Ophion Velos, a watch that is more polished and refined, but made by machine i...

Business News: Watches & Wonders 2021 Will Happen Online – And in Shanghai SJX Watches
Vacheron Constantin as will Jan 29, 2021

Business News: Watches & Wonders 2021 Will Happen Online – And in Shanghai

Originally slated to be the ultimate watch fair that would also include the major brands that departed Baselworld, Watches & Wonders (W&W;) did not take place in 2020 due to the pandemic and instead became a virtual show online, before being transported to China as an actual, physical fair. The event is returning in 2021 in exactly the same format, but with a far larger number of brands taking part. W&W; will happen online from April 7-13, where 38 brands will introduce their latest watches. The participants include nearly all of watchmaking’s major brands and conglomerates. All of Richemont’s brands will be present, including A. Lange & Söhne, Cartier, and Vacheron Constantin, as will the brands owned by LVMH – TAG Heuer, Hublot, and Zenith. The list of exhibitors also includes a handful of independent brands, but few are significant, save for Greubel Forsey. Most crucially, the twin giants of Geneva watchmaking will be taking part, giving the event far greater influence and a wider audience – Rolex and its sister brand Tudor, as well as Patek Philippe. Much like the traditional watch fair in Geneva, the online version of W&W; will be open to retailers, journalists, and select clients of the participating brands. W&W; Shanghai in 2020. Photo – Watches & Wonders And a few days later… With strong demand for luxury watches in China – where social and economic life is largely back to normal – W&W; will then take place as a physical fair in Shanghai once again, b...

G-Shock Introduces the Street Utility Collection SJX Watches
Casio describes them as clad Apr 9, 2020

G-Shock Introduces the Street Utility Collection

Though Casio describes them as clad in “the colours of streetwear”, the new G-Shock Street Utility collection feels very much like a military-inspired line-up, varying from olive green to desert camouflage. The collection includes both of G-Shock’s bestselling models, starting with the classic DW-5600 that has the same form as the first-ever G-Shock, the DW-5000 of 1983 (which was revived in solid 18k gold as the Dream Project). The G-Shock Street Utility DW-5610SU retains the signature oblong case and bezel, but is now constructed of two parts, instead of being one-piece as on the original. As a result, the Street Utility DW-5610 has a two-tone case the bezel in black resin while the case band is in another colour. It’s available in three styles, including a khaki version with a desert camouflage face as well as an additional fabric strap; the other two are sold only with the standard resin band. Street Utility DW-5610SU And the other variant of the collection is the G-Shock Street Utility GA-2100 series, based the popular Royal Oak-esque watch launched last year. The thinnest G-Shock to date, the GA-2100 has a case made of a carbon-fibre composite that’s now also offered in a two-colour finish. The olive green and yellow models have two-layer cases fitted with black bezels, but the black version is one piece, with the jungle camouflage motif printed on the bezel. Street Utility GA-2100 Key facts and price G-Shock Street Utility DW-5600 series Ref. DW-5610SU-...

Great ‘Grams: The Cartier edition Time+Tide
Cartier edition As you might Feb 27, 2020

Great ‘Grams: The Cartier edition

As you might have picked up if you follow me on Instagram (@nick.kenyon), I have a soft spot for design-focused watches, generally on the smaller side of 40mm and especially those that are vintage. As a result, one of my favourite brands is Cartier, thanks to the strength and consistency that has been present in … ContinuedThe post Great ‘Grams: The Cartier edition appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Obituary: Kiu Tai Yu, Chinese Independent Watchmaker SJX Watches
Montblanc Feb 17, 2020

Obituary: Kiu Tai Yu, Chinese Independent Watchmaker

Born in China but having worked in Hong Kong for decades, Kiu Tai Yu was long reputed to have been the first watchmaker to produce a tourbillon wristwatch in Asia, having premiered his own in 1990. Before that, only watchmakers in the West had ever produced a tourbillon, a device that was then still regarded as the pinnacle of artisanal watchmaking. A year after unveiling his tourbillon, Kiu became the first Asian member of the Académie Horlogère des Créateurs Indépendants (AHCI), the association of independent watchmakers that had been established by Svend Andersen and Vincent Calabrese just a few years before. The news of Kiu’s death was first announced by Mr Calabrese on Facebook. Kiu Tai Yu in his shop. Photo – Vincent Calabrese But it was in 1993 that Kiu debuted his most memorable invention, the Mystery Tourbillon. Equipped with an oscillating balance wheel making one revolution a minute, but seemingly with neither a cage nor bridge. The secret lay in a clear sapphire plate that functioned as the upper bridge, while the cage of the tourbillon was reduced to a fish-shaped platform underneath the balance wheel, a construction that has since been adopted in various forms by brands like Montblanc and Zenith. Not content with a mere Mystery Tourbillon, Kiu subsequently installed the invention in a rectangular form movement, and later even added a jumping hour time display. It’s worth pointing out that every one of Kiu’s tourbillon wristwatches was unique, and ...

Solid as a rock –the Panerai Submersible 1950 Amagnetic 3 Days Automatic Titanio (PAM 1389) Time+Tide
Panerai Submersible 1950 Amagnetic 3 May 6, 2019

Solid as a rock –the Panerai Submersible 1950 Amagnetic 3 Days Automatic Titanio (PAM 1389)

Editor’s note: This year, Panerai made the Submersible a line in its own right, and honestly, we’re wondering what took them so long. It’s a design that - as demonstrated admirably by the Panerai Submersible 1950 Amagnetic (PAM 1389) here - possesses equal parts brawn, bravura and beauty …  Way back in 2013, Panerai released the PAM 389, … ContinuedThe post Solid as a rock –the Panerai Submersible 1950 Amagnetic 3 Days Automatic Titanio (PAM 1389) appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

INTRODUCING: The Nomos Ahoi neomatik, in eye-popping ‘siren red’ Time+Tide
Nomos Ahoi neomatik Oct 2, 2017

INTRODUCING: The Nomos Ahoi neomatik, in eye-popping ‘siren red’

Nomos may be one of the younger players in the watch scene, but they’ve already well and truly stamped their mark on the industry. A very minimalist-looking one, to be sure, but that does not mean that their purist Bauhaus/Deutscher Werkbund-inspired designs are boring. Far from it. There’s nothing ho-hum about a manufacturer who has been … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Nomos Ahoi neomatik, in eye-popping ‘siren red’ appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

INTRODUCING: The Girard-Perregaux Neo-Bridges Time+Tide
Girard-Perregaux Neo-Bridges As one Aug 9, 2017

INTRODUCING: The Girard-Perregaux Neo-Bridges

As one of the oldest continuing watch manufacturers in the world, Girard-Perregaux have a long, illustrious history of sharp and innovative designs. In 1889 at the Paris Universal Exhibition, the brand’s legendary pocket watch “Esmeralda”, a tourbillon with three gold bridges, was awarded first prize, establishing the motif as an emblematic design for the brand. … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Girard-Perregaux Neo-Bridges appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

A New Dial Color for the Nomos Ahoi Worn & Wound
Nomos Ahoi German watchmaker NOMOS Jul 25, 2024

A New Dial Color for the Nomos Ahoi

German watchmaker NOMOS Glashütte has just released their latest Ahoi Neomatik 38 collection. Alongside Sky and Sand, we now have the Atlantic colorway. Inspired by the outdoor culture of seaside and island life, the Ahoi Neomatik 38 series combines sporty elements with a distinctive, sophisticated style.  Like others in the series, the Atlantic focuses on functionality without compromising on design. For swimming, diving, or sailing, legibility is key and this reference has large, readable numbers in an almost Art Deco font. The deep blue dial against the contrasting indices and hands aren’t just a great design choice, they also help to tell time in a variety of conditions while out at sea. Further to this, the hours and minutes are coated in Super-LumiNova to assist in low-light areas, such as during dives in open waters. The mixture of yellow hour markers, a red seconds hand, blue-black woven strap, and the 38.5mm stainless steel case all show a cohesive design language in the newAtlantic variant. The Atlantic runs on a NOMOS Neomatik caliber DUW 6101 with a 42-hour power reserve. This movement has a quick-set date function, which can be found at 3 o’clock. Given the aquatic inspiration for this watch, NOMOS has designed the case to be water resistant for up to 200 meters (20 atm).  Two references of this watch are available – the 518 and 528. The 518 has a stainless steel case back, while the 528 has a sapphire crystal case back. Both versions are available no...

Introducing – Hermès Artistically Interprets the Seasons with the Slim d’Hermès Le Sacre des Saisons Monochrome
Hermes Feb 7, 2024

Introducing – Hermès Artistically Interprets the Seasons with the Slim d’Hermès Le Sacre des Saisons

Regarded as one of the most refined luxury retailers, Hermès is renowned for its exquisite artisanal craftsmanship and intrepid artistic flair. The Maison’s unique style, safeguarded by current creative director Philippe Delhotal, is often transversal, taking design cues from one product line and incorporating them into another. Recently, Hermès watchmaking sector has turned to the […]

The Rise (And Rise) Of Independents: A Live Panel Discussion From Geneva Watch Days 2021 Featuring Felix Baumgartner (Urwerk), Pierre Jacques (De Bethune), William Massena (Massena Lab), Alexandre Ghotbi (Phillips), And Elizabeth Doerr Quill & Pad
Massena Lab Sep 9, 2021

The Rise (And Rise) Of Independents: A Live Panel Discussion From Geneva Watch Days 2021 Featuring Felix Baumgartner (Urwerk), Pierre Jacques (De Bethune), William Massena (Massena Lab), Alexandre Ghotbi (Phillips), And Elizabeth Doerr

Independent watchmakers and brands have experienced an unbelievable uptick in not only business and sales during 2021 – despite, or even perhaps because of, the pandemic – but also in recognition and general respect and understanding. During Geneva Watch Days 2021, Elizabeth Doerr moderated a live panel discussion hosted by Phillips exploring in detail this new and unexpected position in the luxury watch industry. Please enjoy the recorded discussion here.

Ollech & Wajs Introduces the Rallychron Coupe Des Alpes, a Limited Edition Paying Tribute to the History of Rally Racing Worn & Wound
Jul 15, 2025

Ollech & Wajs Introduces the Rallychron Coupe Des Alpes, a Limited Edition Paying Tribute to the History of Rally Racing

Though the more famous forms of rally racing would come later in the 1970s and 1980s, the ‘50s and ‘60s hosted some of the most daring, grueling, and downright perilous rally races in history. Without the comforts and safety considerations of our modern cars, rally drivers in the “golden age of motor racing” were just a few layers of sheet metal away from careening off mountain faces and flying into crevasses, paving the way for even more extreme rally categories, like Group B, to follow. In a celebration of the raw emotion of the Coupes Des Alpes, or “Alpine Rally”-one of the most hairball (and scenic) rally races of the midcentury-Zurich-based watchmakers Ollech & Wajs have partnered with automotive event organizer Rallystory to create the Rallychron “Coupe Des Alpes” Edition chronograph.  Founded in 1956, the Swiss brand has based the design and functionality of the Rallychron on their own competition timers from the 1960s. The brushed 316L stainless steel case measures in at a sporty 39.5mm in diameter and 15.3mm in thickness; appropriate sizing for both legibility at high speeds and comfort in high-endurance situations, like motorsport. Twin pushers and a screw-down crown fill out the heritage-style construction of the case, while the date is manipulated with a pusher at the 10 o’clock position. The unidirectional bezel is PVD-coated in black and features a tachymetric scale and inscriptions of “11 perfect lap times”, a fun motorsport Easter...