Hodinkee
Hands-On: Baltic Wins The Race With This '70s-Inspired Limited Edition Chronograph
This is the Baltic x Peter Auto Tricompax, with a Sellita movement to boot.
230 articles · 140 videos found · page 4 of 13
Hodinkee
This is the Baltic x Peter Auto Tricompax, with a Sellita movement to boot.
SJX Watches
Having made its debut last summer, London-based Anoma returns with the A1 Slate, an entry level watch that punches above its weight in terms of design. Inspired by a triangular table designed in the 1950s by French designer Charlotte Perriand, the A1 Slate executes the mid-century aesthetic with aplomb. Over the past few years we’ve seen a number of unusually shaped watches come to market, perhaps as a cultural reaction to the proliferation of classical designs that otherwise dominate. Among these, the Anoma A1 stands out for its commitment to value and its undiluted form. Initial thoughts When the Anoma A1 debuted with the First Series, my first reaction was that it was simply a triangular watch. Closer examination revealed a number of intriguing details, like the offset rotation of the crystal relative to the case. The A1 Slate takes things up a notch, with an attractive grooved dial that brings the design to life. The A1 is all about its triangular stainless steel case, which is roughly 39 mm in diameter. The curved edges call to mind a Wankel rotory engine, and give the watch a pebble-like presence. A slim leather strap fits into hidden lugs, allowing the watch’s shape to remain undiluted. Like its predecessor, the A1 Slate is powered by the Sellita SW100, a diminutive automatic movement that was chosen for its ability to fit within the compact triangular case. The movement is common and industrial, which should give potential buyers confidence in its ability to be...
Worn & Wound
When Timex launched the Giorgio Galli S1 in 2020, an eponymous watch designed by the brand’s long-time creative director with over 30 years in the industry, it was met with shock. It didn’t look like a Timex, having a stripped-down, retro-luxury vibe. It didn’t feel like a Timex, constructed from injection molded steel and featuring a Miyota movement inside. It wasn’t priced like a Timex, initially listed at $450. And yet, it was described by the historic brand as “the most ‘Timex’ Timex ever made,” a bold statement and perhaps even a challenge to what we expect from the brand. It was met with excitement, if also some confusion, that wore off as the S1 took root and eventually spawned subsequent versions, including an enthusiast-friendly 38mm variety. In 2023, Timex followed up with the S2, which took Giorgio Galli’s vision further into conceptual territory as well as upmarket. The DNA of the S1 was clear, but the S2 was more than a refinement; it was a genuine evolution of the concept. Combining steel and titanium, the 38mm x 46mm x 12mm case was hollowed out from the side, revealing an unexpected structure for a sleeker, more contemporary style. The dial was further reduced to an expansive surface with a single applied ring, notched at intervals of five. Finally, it was Swiss-made, and powered by a decorated Selitta SW200 automatic. Minimal in a Euro-chic way, the S2 was a restrained and mature design intended to speak to the enthusiasts in Timex’s fa...
SJX Watches
The ProPilot X Miss Piggy Edition is Oris’ second collaboration with The Muppets, following the ProPilot X Kermit two years ago. Housed in a 34 mm stainless steel case, the Miss Piggy Edition has vibrant “hot pink” dial with a synthetic diamond for a 12 o’clock marker, while the Muppets character makes an appearance on the rotor, and can be glimpsed through a small porthole on the case back. The new edition retains the model’s signature knurled bezel and integrated bracelet equipped with a “Lift” folding clasp modelled on an aircraft seat belt buckle. Initial thoughts Though part of the ProPilot line that’s mostly made up of no-frills aviator’s watches, the Miss Piggy Edition is definitely not a traditional pilot’s watch. Instead, it’s a playful interpretation of the genre that’s conceived for women, which also encapsulates the brand’s experimental spirit found in its limited editions. The novelty of the Muppets theme aside, the watch also has an acceptable level of fit and finish for the price, which is nonetheless a little steep. With a retail price of US$3,200, the Miss Piggy Edition is relatively expensive given its movement, even considering the synthetic diamond marker. It is powered by the Oris cal. 531, which is actually a Sellita SW100, a movement with easy serviceability and reliability, but one that’s inexpensive. Many of its competitors in this price segment, Tudor and Longines for instance, offer watches with higher-spec movements, ...
Worn & Wound
From the moment Oris announced their ProPilot X “Kermit” watch fans have been speculating about which muppet would be next to get the Oris treatment. Not that we didn’t love seeing Kermit on the dial (once a month, on the first of the month) but for many elder-millennials and Gen-X watch collectors, the thought of having an entire collection of Muppet watches was, and remains, pretty tantalizing. Now, just about two years after Kermit made his Oris debut, we get the follow up: the ProPilot X Miss Piggy Edition. If you were hoping for Beaker or Animal or another more niche Muppet to appear on an Oris dial, you’ll have to keep waiting. Of course Miss Piggy would have to be the next character – she’s the natural counterpart to Kermit, after all. Has there ever been a more obvious “his and hers” collection than these two ProPilots together? I can’t think of one. The ProPilot X Miss Piggy Edition takes the familiar ProPilot X format and shrinks it (and pinks it, sorry) to 34mm. The case is stainless steel and the watch is powered by a rebadged Sellita automatic caliber. It’s notable that unlike the Kermit watch, we don’t see Miss Piggy on the dial of her ProPilot, not even for a day (there’s no date window for her to make an appearance). Instead, there’s a small window on the caseback through which you can see her periodically on the winding rotor. For a watch devoted to such an iconic character, this is a pretty retrained approach. Instead of Miss P...
Video
It is time for the mid-year check in of the watch industry. What were the best releases so far? Which ones were a bit meh? Brands I am actually worried about and more.
Worn & Wound
New from Christopher Ward, we’ve got news of the latest addition to their Trident line-up. The C60 Trident Pro 300 GMT marks the return of the complication that’s been a favorite among brand enthusiasts. Originally released just a year after the original Trident, this four-handed watch quickly found its way as the preferred watch for those travel and sports-minded among us. Now, the C60 Trident Pro has returned and is better than ever. Coming in three colorways (light blue/blue, white/blue, and turquoise/yellow), the watch remains refined in details without ever veering into the “dull” category. In fact, Christopher Ward’s confidence in the Trident series shines through when there is so little decoration to take away from the balance of this watch’s overall design. The watch is stripped down to the essentials, making it one that, when it comes to performance and wear, really speaks for itself. Each colorway is complemented by a 40 mm stainless steel case and a corresponding bezel. A bi-color ceramic bezel is available for the blue models, while a steel relief bezel for the turquoise option. And with three bracelet options to choose from, it’s the subtle variations which show the thoughtfulness behind the C60 Trident Pro 300 GMT. This reference runs on a Sellita SW330-2 automatic movement, offering a 56-hour power reserve. The movement is visible through a sapphire crystal caseback, allowing enthusiasts to appreciate its inner workings. Getting back to the roo...
Worn & Wound
The Montblanc Iced Sea Automatic Date collection, already notable for its unique glacial-inspired aesthetics, welcomes two new additions to its line-up: Bronze and Burgundy. Both models expand upon the Iced Sea collection to bring a moodier, more sophisticated look. The first of these, Bronze, marries a black glacier pattern dial with a bronze-tone case, a nod to the golden hues of dusk over frosty terrains. This reference stands out with its use of cupro aluminum for the case – a unique alloy that surpasses traditional bronze in resistance to wear and corrosion, promising durability while aging gracefully into a charming patina. It also introduces a bi-color unidirectional bezel, a new logo reflecting Montblanc’s heritage, and a titanium caseback adorned with a scuba diver motif, all complemented by a versatile black rubber strap with a brown accent. The Burgundy model, on the other hand, captures the deep reds of evening light on ice, paired with a black ceramic bezel. It comes with an interchangeable stainless-steel bracelet, ensuring a perfect fit for the wearer. Both models exhibit the meticulous craftsmanship Montblanc is known for, utilizing a special gratté-boisé technique for the dials to create an impression of depth and luminosity, while the casebacks feature detailed 3D engravings achieved through precise laser work. Each model’s case comes in at 41mm, accompanied by a sapphire crystal and equipped with an MB 24.17/SW200 automatic movement that promises...
Worn & Wound
Subtlety will never go out of style and the new Pioneer Silva, from Swiss-German watch brand Hanhart, exemplifies this. With its low-profile design and simple aesthetic, the Silva has a presence without ever veering into the ostentatious. It’s a watch that’s just as comfortable paired with a suit as with jeans and a t-shirt. To accomplish this, Hanhart married modern design trends with classic elements. The watch itself is based on an archival reference, the Kal 36/39, which was reinterpreted for the modern age. Updates have included an uncluttered broad dial with an emphasis on sleek lines and readability. With that, there are still charming nods to Hanhart’s heritage models, including the white dots between numerals and the vintage Hanhart logo that’s recognized on a few Pioneer models. The Pioneer Silva isn’t just a watch that looks good, but functions well, too. The Silva has an automatic movement that runs on a Sellita SW200, offering a 38-hour power reserve. The SW200 can be seen in action through the sapphire glass backing on the Silva, adding another level of eye candy to this watch. As mentioned, the case of this watch has a low profile, making it a great watch for everyday wear. Coming in at just 10mm in height, the 38mm stainless steel case has presence on the wrist without the bulk. With the option of either a black or white dial, and a black calfskin or steel bracelet, Hanhart has embraced the minimalism of this watch to show off the versatility ...
Worn & Wound
Each and everyday here at Worn & Wound, we’re on the hunt for interesting watches and useful gear. We recently came across some products that fit this bill from the folks at Shinola. Together they seemed to create an ideal solution for a summer-themed list of Father’s Day gifts. Fortunately, we were able to pick up a selection of our favorites from their Tribeca Store here in New York City. Our team was impressed with the quality imbued in each of these items, hope you are too. If you’re anything like us, you have a wide variety of watches that range in size from dainty to behemoth. Even though this travel watch is called the Shinola Monster GMT, it hits that sweet spot of 40mm that seems to fit nearly any wrist, making it a that ideal giftable size. With a sapphire exhibition case back revealing the Sellita SW330-2 automatic movement inside, an easy-to-use push button quick release stainless steel bracelet, and an alternative woven strap made from recycled ocean plastic, you won’t even need to include a strap changing tool in your gift bag. LEARN MORE The post Father’s Day Summertime Gift Guide with Shinola appeared first on Worn & Wound.
Worn & Wound
Vulcain has been around in one form or another since the mid-1800s. A few ownership changes, some rocky years, a shutdown, and two eventual revivals make up the long and rocky road that is the Vulcain brand. If you’ve heard of the brand before, it’s most likely that the Cricket is the watch you’re familiar with. The Cricket gets the most attention, being worn on the wrists of American Presidents and having a unique alarm complication that made it stand out from the pack. While the Cricket is great, there’s another watch that doesn’t get quite as much attention, but definitely deserves it, and that’s the Chronograph 1970’s. This new release from Vulcain is a true-to-form recreation of a watch they released back in the 1970s, right down to the spot-on vintage proportions. Let’s dig in and take a closer look at this charming 38mm chronograph from Vulcain. $2781 Vulcain Continues Revival With New Chronograph 1970’s Case Stainless Steel Movement Sellita SW510 M BH Dial Black on Black, semi-gloss sunray Lume Yes, hands and markers Lens Double domed sapphire with AR coating Strap Black leather Water Resistance 5 ATM Dimensions 38x46mm Thickness 12.4mm Lug Width 20mm Crown Push/Pull Warranty 2yr Price $2781 Case Vulcain’s vintage proportions and style are spot-on here. Measuring 38mm wide by 12.4mm thick (a hefty portion of that taken up by the double domed sapphire crystal), the Chronograph wears like a dream. It’s not just about the dimensions, because the ...
Video
The Artisans de Genève are a group of dedicated and talented specialists in their field, who create one-of-a-kind timepieces that bring watch dreams to life. It all starts with a client’s idea; it continues with a...
Worn & Wound
Ladies and gentlemen, I have a new obsession. Zach Weiss already told you about the latest Carreras from TAG Heuer, and they are undoubtedly pretty great. But the watch that stole the show for me from the TAG presentation was a solid gold Aquaracer. Yes, a solid gold Aquaracer. It wasn’t too long ago that we were universally kind of gobsmacked by a solar powered titanium version of this very same watch. Now, if you’d like, you can have a pair in two very different metals, which give very different impressions. The key to this Aquaracer is the complementary nature of the rose gold case and the degrade dial, which is a warm blend of brown and gray. The bezel and tops of the lugs have a sandblasted finish that mimics the utilitarian look of titanium reference, but there are polished accents that really make the precious metal pop, and that’s kind of what you want on a watch like this. Aside from the solid gold case, though, this is the Aquaracer we know and love (but just, you know, elevated to an insane degree). Inside ticks a TH31-00 automatic movement, a new caliber built by AMT, Sellita’s high end division. It has 80 hours of power reserve and has been COSC certified, so in terms of specs it’s highly competitive with calibers found in other high end divers. The case still measures a tidy 40mm in diameter. The horizontal ridged pattern that the Aquaracer’s dials have adopted recently is also present, and I can’t understate how well the tone of that dial w...
Time+Tide
Romaric André of seconde/seconde/ teams up with Maen for an unexpect take on the Manhattan 37 The integrated-bracelet gets a literal cherry on top of its handset, as well as a new magenta dial The 37-piece limited edition is powered by an élaboré-grade Sellita SW200 Every chance Romaric André gets to add his twist to … ContinuedThe post Maen and seconde/seconde/ stir up a special Manhattan 37 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Two Broke Watch Snobs
The new Farer Racing Chronograph pairs a hand-wound Sellita movement with 1960s racing watch design cues across three colorways.
Worn & Wound
Typically, not a lot happens in the world of third-party mechanical watch movements. The ETA2824 reigned supreme for decades until Swatch Group stopped openly supplying them, giving way primarily to Sellita, Soprod, and La Joux Perret on the Swiss side, and Miyota and Seiko on the Japanese side. For the most part, the catalogs of those brands stayed relatively unchanged for many years, but now, it appears that there’s a bit of an arms race happening. The days of 42-hour power reserves are over, and brands are now vying for features and specifications once limited to more expensive calibers; to that end, there have been a series of interesting events/releases. First, the COSC announced the creation of the “Excellence Chronometer” standard with a -2/+4 accuracy standard among other considerations. Sellita launched the SW200-2 Power + movements with 65-hour reserves, new gear trains, and other improvements. The CEO of La Joux Perret spoke about the upcoming G-200 caliber, which will feature a 72-hour reserve and antimagnetic properties, on the Hodinkee podcast. And this week, a very exciting new automatic was announced by a surprising source: Ronda. The R150 launched in 2016 Ronda is a well-known Swiss manufacturer that was founded in 1946. Over their 80 years of existence, they have specialized in many things, from component manufacturing to ebauchés and full mechanical movements to, beginning in the 1970s, quartz calibers, which is what they are best known for today....
Two Broke Watch Snobs
Farer's new 35mm Furneaux and Belzoni feature spun gradient dials, a hand-wound Sellita, and steeper cushion case angles.
Video
A few years ago I purchased my grail watch to celebrate a decade of making watch content on YouTube. That watch was the Breguet Tradition 7057 (ref. 7057BR/R9/9W6) and today, I not only travel to Switzerland to see wh...
Monochrome
Whenever movements are discussed, attention tends to focus on the Swiss, which is understandable, but it excludes some of the biggest movement manufacturers. Seiko, Miyota and so on, let alone the Chinese, produce far more movements per year on their own than ETA or Sellita do, for instance. To put this into some form of […]
Monochrome
Albishorn is a young brand with a rather peculiar concept. Created by Sebastien Chaulmontet, ex-La Joux-Perret, in charge of the revival of Arnold & Son and Angelus, and now serving as the Head of Innovation and Marketing at Sellita Watch Co SA and Manufacture AMT, the brand launched with a rather cool idea: imaginary vintage. […]
SJX Watches
A historical brand that was recently revived, Aquastar continues to mine its past catalogue with the Benthos Heritage II, a contemporary interpretation the original Benthos diver’s watch of 1970. Drawing on sketches from Aquastar’s archives, the new release has a typical 1970s style with a “turtle” case that’s a suitably compact 40 mm in diameter, but with a modern-day ceramic bezel insert and Sellita movement. Initial thoughts The Benthos Heritage II is essentially an affordable, wearable dive watch with contemporary specifications and materials. While the brand’s earlier Benthos was a substantial 42 mm by 15.4 mm, the new model is scaled down, reduced by 2 mm in diameter and 3.5 mm in thickness, giving it the smaller, vintage-like proportions that are popular today. However, Aquastar is just one of many brands producing vintage-inspired dive watches. In fact, its owner was also behind the relaunch of Doxa, also a brand specialising in vintage-remake dive watches. As a result, the new Benthos is not a unique concept, but it is well considering the price. Priced at US$1,490 on a stainless steel bracelet, the Benthos Heritage II is a decent value proposition. It’s priced similarly to other micro-brand offerings of comparable quality, but unlike startup brands, it comes with the historical background of the Aquastar brand. Part of its affordability is explained by the pre-order sales model, which means orders placed and paid for now will only be fulfilled in Ma...
Monochrome
Montoir is a fairly new microbrand that launched its first dive watch in late 2023 and now has a follow-up on Kickstarter with new dial and bezel colours. We were impressed with Montoir’s first release as the watches were stylish, had serious 200m water-resistance and included a well-proven Sellita automatic. While the general formula remains […]
SJX Watches
The Independence Skeleton Chrono is the latest from Norqain, the maker of affordable sports watches. Available in stainless steel or DLC-coated titanium, the Independence Skeleton Chrono is equipped with a new movement, the “8K Manufacture Calibre (NK24/1)”. Developed in partnership with AMT, the NK24/1 is based on the architecture of the Sellita SW500 but upgraded in several ways, including a flyback function and a column wheel to replace the customary cam. Initial thoughts The Independence chronograph is now Norqain’s top-of-the-line offering, so it costs substantially more than the brand’s prior chronograph models. Still, the Independence arguably offers a similar value proposition as past Norqain models because while it’s more expensive, it is more watch. The case has more detail and the movement is more customised for the model. The NK24/1 is a new development but clearly based on the Sellita SW500, but with enough upgrades for the price point. However, the NK24/1 is still as thick as a Sellita SW500, so the Independence is chunky and almost 14 mm high. The Independence is priced at US$6,490 on a steel bracelet, and a bit more in titanium. The value proposition is good, but not quite great. While the execution of the Independence is as good as, or even a bit better, than many of its peers in the price segment, it can’t quite reach the value proposition of the leaders in the segment, namely Tudor and Longines, both of which enjoy economies of scale practica...
Video
These budget Japanese Explorer 2s are killer daily drivers, but have opposite personalities.
SJX Watches
Oak & Oscar has just launched its second chronograph, the Atwood, a modern take on vintage racing chronographs that’s powered by a manually wound Sellita AMT5100M. The movement is a derivative of the Valjoux 7750 that has a few tricks up its sleeve, namely a column wheel and flyback functionality. Chicago-based Oak & Oscar was founded in 2015, making it part of the early wave of ‘micro brands.’ Over the past nine years, the brand has managed to develop its own recognisable minimalist aesthetic across a range of versatile go-anywhere, do-anything sports watches. Initial Thoughts I tend to be fond of Oak & Oscar’s designs, and a lot of that has to do with the expert use of colour. The Atwood is offered in three colourways that are each appealing in their own right, and will feel familiar to fans of the brand. The brand’s signature orange seconds hand is complemented by matching accents on the sub-dials, a stylistic choice that evokes sporty ’70s chronographs like the Tudor Monte Carlo. But the design still manages to feel fresh, thanks in part to the brand’s own strikingly modern typeface. The Atwood is the brand’s second chronograph, after the Jackson which debuted in 2017. The Atwood addresses one of the few shortcomings of the Jackson, which is the latter’s 14.5 mm case thickness. The 39 mm Atwood is comparatively slim at just 12.9 mm, a figure that includes the domed sapphire crystal, meaning that visually it will appear even thinner. While the dimensio...
Worn & Wound
It’s always worth celebrating when we see true design artistry and a successful attempt at bringing something wholly unique to the micro-independent watch community. Betina Menescal is the creative mind behind Möels + Co. At 24 years old she is a powerhouse of fresh ideas and is determined to design watches that are completely original. You won’t find a single component in one of her watches, aside from the Sellita movements and straps, in a catalog anywhere. The numerals, the hands, the case, the crystal are all entirely designed by Betina, and manufactured for her alone. The Designer To say that Betina comes from an artistic family would be an understatement. There are three opera singers, a children’s musician, and her father, who would turn out to be a great influence for Betina. He was briefly into architecture but quickly moved on to media production. Among his credits: he was a co-director for the movie Anaconda, and produced commercials for the likes of Coca-Cola, Asics, Adidas, and did World Cup commercials for Gillette. When Betina was nine years old, her father took her on a business trip to Buenos Aires. “My dad didn’t know how to talk to kids. So all he was doing was looking at the buildings and mentioning the architecture here, and the art there. Look at that little detail on the facade or the ceiling.” Betina began to notice that her father had an eye for these details, and how these small features fit into a whole. “It was always a big pr...
Monochrome
Frederique Constant is well-known for its wide portfolio of manufacture movements, ranging from classic time-only to high-end tourbillons and perpetual calendars. Still, not all watches from FC are powered by these internally developed and assembled calibres. Specifically, most of the brand’s entry-level models rely on Sellita movements. A new collection, which has just been presented, […]
Time+Tide
The Maurice Lacroix Aikon Skeleton Urban Tribe introduces even more complexity and depth At 39mm in diameter, it’s a comfortable fit for such a visually-loud watch The skeletonised dial artfully shows off the ML115S movement, based on a Sellita SW200 Maurice Lacroix aren’t afraid to get experimental, and the Urban Tribe is a key example … ContinuedThe post Maurice Lacroix Aikon Skeleton Urban Tribe appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Hodinkee
One fatality was reported in the town and Sellita's factory was damaged.
Video
The new IWC Ingenieur Automatic 35 in Pool Blue might just be my favourite Ingenieur yet. In this hands-on review, I take a closer look at IWC's latest integrated bracelet sports watch and explain why a simple dial ch...
Question, suggestion, or just want to say hi? Drop a note.