Four + One: Andrea Parmegiani Brings Youthfulness To The Italian Collecting Style
The son of one of the most important dealers is carving his own collecting style with nods to the past.
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The son of one of the most important dealers is carving his own collecting style with nods to the past.
Hodinkee
A highly precise quartz movement is just one update to this throwback design.
Time+Tide
Kyriakos Mitsotakis has enjoyed a great run of late. The Greek Prime Minister recently surged to a landslide victory in his country’s general election with his right-of-centre New Democracy party taking 40.6% of the vote to win a second four-year term. The result delivered Mitsotakis an overall majority of eight seats in the 300-member parliament, … ContinuedThe post Greek Prime Minister Kyriakos Mitsotakis wears the Zenith Defy Classic Skeleton “Night Surfer” Time+Tide Edition appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Hodinkee
A follow-up to the famed "Skipperera," this Autavia-based Skipper is just too good to not dive deeper on.
SJX Watches
French microbrand Baltic has sharpened the styling of its signature models with the HMS 003 and Bicompax 003. While maintaining their 1940s-inspired styling and affordable pricing, the new duo feature subtle enhancements to the design, most notably on the dial and a small case diameter. Initial thoughts Baltic found success with its formula of retro style and accessible pricing – most of its watches are in the US$500 to US$1,000 range – with the Micro-Rotor MR01 being a recent bestseller. It is a nice surprise to see the brand’s debut models rebooted to gain a smaller case similar in size to the MR01. The dials of the 003 series offer a lively aesthetic with textured surfaces and applied indices that create a pleasing contrast. This is an upgrade from from the 002 models, which felt a bit flat due to the printed markings on the dial. And the reduced case size of 36.5 mm give the 003 series distinct, 1940s-inspired proportions that match the dial designs perfectly. However, the new dials are perhaps lacking one thing, an applied logo to match the applied indices. Of the three colours, the “salmon” versions are predictable and stand out as crowd pleasers that will probably sell out swiftly give the faddish nature of the colour. The blue dial with gold indices, however, is both unusual and attractive. As is typical for Baltic, the 003 watches are made inexpensively but smartly so they feel a bit nicer than they cost. The new models maintain the brand’s competiti...
Worn & Wound
Monta surprised Windup Chicago attendees this weekend with the surprise unveiling of a new colorway for their popular Triumph model. The Triumph is the brand’s take on a classic military field watch, so the new green dial feels like a natural choice for the way it evokes uniforms and other military iconography, and brings an even more tool-like feel to the Triumph. The Triumph has been around since 2017 and is one of the longest standing Monta references. When it was introduced at Baselworld that year, a sunburst green dial was among the variants on display. This new version is a very different take on the color, however, with a more pronounced olive tone and a lacquer finish. Hands, hour markers, and Arabic numerals are all in a crisp, high contrast white, with the hands and markers at 12, 3, 6, and 9 given a rhodium plating for increased legibility. Aside from the new dial, this is the same Triumph that Monta fans have come to love over the years. It features the same top notch finishing that Monta has always been known for, which in the case of the Triumph means a case that’s entirely brushed, except for thin chamfers on the bracelet, bezel, and lugs. The case measures 38.5mm in diameter and is just 9.7mm thick, but still has a full 150 meters of water resistance thanks to its robust construction and screw down crown. The military green dialed Triumph is a limited edition of 95 pieces, and is now available for pre-order at a price of $1,700. It’s also worth ...
Worn & Wound
Nodus fans take note: a rare version of the Sector GMT is about to be sold at auction for a worthy cause, and you can bid on it until the auction closes tomorrow. This limited edition was created in partnership with RedBar’s Atlanta chapter, and features some distinctive details that make this version particularly rewarding for Atlanta residents, but it’s also just a nice looking execution of an already attractive watch, and we think it can be enjoyed just as easily north of the Mason-Dixon line. Or in Nodus’ hometown on the west coast. You get the idea. The dial is black with red accents, a nod to the colors of the Atlanta Falcons football franchise, and features an image of the Atlanta skyline on the caseback, along with the RedBar logo and limited edition number. This particular watch carries the “00/50” designation, and is the last remaining of the limited run (all 50 watches in the limited edition were claimed by Atlanta RedBar members when the watch was unveiled in April). The Sector GMT is a classically proportioned sports watch (it measures 38mm in diameter) filtered through the Nodus contemporary design language and point of view. Like other watches in the Sector collection, the GMT makes use of a multi piece dial with distinct layers, creating a unique sense of depth and calling attention to the finishing and materials Nodus is using. This collection has grown and matured a great deal in just a few years, with a total of six models spanning every vari...
Worn & Wound
We all have unique origin stories about the watches that got us into the hobby, or the watches responsible for pulling us in deeper. As varied as those stories surely are, the overlap of appearances by a certain handful of watches is likely quite high. While not universal, I’d wager that the highest percentage of overlap is among Seiko watches, stuff like the SKX007, the 6139, and the Alpinist SARB017. Each of those references make appearances somewhere along the early stages of my own journey, and this Missed Review will focus specifically on that last one, the Alpinist SARB017, a watch that’s easy to take for granted these days. There was a time, however, when this watch had a near mythic appeal. In some ways, it still does. The Alpinist holds an interesting place in Seiko history, and while the name may no longer exist formally, it still holds a tremendous amount of equity when it comes to Seiko field watches and their enthusiasts. The name itself dates back to the early ‘60s with the Laurel Alpinist and Champion Alpinist, though it wouldn’t appear on a modern design until 1995 with the so-called ‘red Alpinist’ SCVF references designed by Shigeo Sakai. It is this design that would set the template for the 2006 SARB references, and the current Prospex Land watches which no longer employ the Alpinist nomenclature. $700 [VIDEO] Missed Review: The Seiko Alpinist SARB017 Case Stainless Steel Movement 6R15 Dial Almond Green Lume Super Luminova Lens Sapphire Stra...
Hodinkee
A stealthy, platinum take on the Time Zone that stays true to Lange.
Worn & Wound
Windup Watch Fair Chicago is officially in the rearview mirror, and as we come up for air from another successful event in the Windy City, it’s time to take stock of some of the new releases that saw their debut at the show. Windup is increasingly becoming a venue for brands to unveil new releases to a captive audience, and this year’s Chicago show saw a handful of both completely new and iterative drops that had watch enthusiasts buzzing all weekend. Formex is just one example, bringing a new collection of Essence references in 39mm and 43mm case sizes with bold colors that make an already fun sports watch just a little more vibrant. The new Essence Splash Chronometer Limited Collection feature dials that are hand-sprayed with bright and bold colors in the brand’s Swiss dial manufacture. The colors range from pastel shades to bold neon, with the full lineup including Sunflower Yellow, Jungle Green, Sunset Orange, Baby Blue, and Lavender Purple. The distinctive feature of the Essence dial, the CNC machined horizontal lines that are run across it, remain in this collection. These dials have a matte finish, which makes the colors pop and appear more uniform, and stands in contrast to other Essence dials that are a bit more reflective. The Splash collection appears across both the 39mm Essence in stainless steel as well as the 43mm Essence Leggera with a case made from carbon and ceramic components. Seeing them in person at Windup, the larger Essence Leggera dials r...
Time+Tide
Earlier this year, Yema indicated their intentions to spice up their collections with the release of the Urban Field. With their Wristmaster Traveller Micro-Rotor being such a barnstorming hit last year too, it made perfect sense for the next experiment to evolve as the Yema Urban Traveller. Clinging to that 1970s retro swagger, this new … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The Yema Urban Traveller delivers integrated-bracelet watches in a soft palette of summery dials appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Jaeger-LeCoultre (JLC) has just unveiled a fresh colour option for the Master Control Chronograph Calendar. Sporting a black dial adorned with red and gold accents, the latest iteration is the chromatic opposite of the original model that featured a conservative silver dial. Initial thoughts The Master Control Chronograph Calendar was released two years ago with an unsurprising silver dial that fit well with the vintage-inspired design but lacked oomph. Fortunately, JLC has addressed this with a high contrast palette that is still suitably vintage inspired but much more striking. Vintage watches with black-and-red dials are uncommon, but they do exist. The combination is appealing, but not the most practical since red text on a black dial is hard to read due to the low contrast between the two colours. This is especially so for the calendar indications, while the pulsations scale on the periphery is probably unreadable in low light. But still, the appeal of the dial certainly makes it compelling despite the poor legality. Colours aside, the watch is identical to the original version, so it shares the same strengths, like the solid, old-school design, and weaknesses, like the mix of French and English on the dial. This costs the same as the earlier version in rose gold, which is US$32,500. The price parity is certainly fair and logical. However, the price is a bit higher than it should be. While not exorbitant, the price does not represent the sort of strong value propo...
Hodinkee
Many a celebrity dressed up for the grassy festivities, and there were watches from the court to the grandstands.
Worn & Wound
The 1950’s were a unique time in terms of both manufacturing and design. Post-war Europe and the United States were, in many ways, still reeling from the previous decade’s global conflict while also enjoying the benefits of a revitalized economy. This, in turn, created a boon of creativity and a sort of mid-century design renaissance that is still admired today. One company that has looked back to the archival design language of the 1950’s is German brand Archimede. The 1950’s collection nods to the design language of this decade with a visually flat dial and an array of small design details which shows a knowledge and respect for this time period. Their latest in the collection, the 1950-4, continues this study in mid-century excellence with new dial executions in green and black, with a variety of strap pairing options to choose from. While the new watches have a subtle charm to them at first glance, it’s the small details that really shine. For starters, each of the references is a 40mm stainless steel ICKLER case with a classic Arabic numeral dial layout and a subsidiary seconds scale at the 6 o’clock mark. A railroad track pattern circumvents the dial, adding just enough detail to be visually appealing without detracting from the overall clean visuals. Most interesting, perhaps, are the lumed hands, numerals, and indices which were inspired by the use of radium in vintage watches, and light up in a charming nod to the past (but don’t worry – it’s not...
Worn & Wound
Summer is in full swing, cool and casual is the name of the game, and for Swatch that means bigger and bolder watches. Big Bold Irony, that is. For the first time, the brand is bringing its Irony treatment to the Big Bold lineup in the form of five new watches. The Irony collection was originally conceived in the 1990s as a premium offering featuring cases made from metal, and indeed, the new Big Bold Irony watches are fitted with stainless steel cases. They are also the first to combine steel with Swatch’s proprietary Bioceramic. There’s no getting around the fact that these watches truly live up to their namesake. At 47mm wide, they undoubtedly make a statement. Swatch has cleverly shaped the lugs, which start towards the underside of the case and curve sharply downwards, resulting in a case length of just 44.8mm. This is identical to the current Big Bold collection and is remarkably wearable for a wide audience. In fact, the only difference in dimension between these and the standard Big Bolds is thickness: the new Irony watches are 13.3mm thick as opposed to 11.75mm in plastic. Swatch’s design choice of keeping the crown at 2 o-clock ensures it will never dig into your wrist, and at 108 grams (with a quartz movement), these watches can easily be worn all day, every day, which is kind of the point. With five options of summery colors – Dark Irony (Black), Azure Blue Daze, Red Juicy, Mint Trim, and Bolden Yellow – you will have no trouble finding one that match...
Time+Tide
As you all no doubt know, it’s World Emoji Day 😵💫😎😅. That means two things. 1. Like me, you’re going, what? There’s a World Emoji Day? and 2. We have some pretty good news, that comes off the back of a difficult situation. You see, when we launched the ChaosMasters, back in November of last … ContinuedThe post The ChaosMasters return – this time with different colour dials, and as a box set trio appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Revolution
Join Wei and Christian Selmoni, Style and Heritage Director of Vacheron Constantin, as they unveil Wei’s personal 222. In this engaging conversation, we’ll explore the fascinating history and design philosophy behind the Vacheron Constantin 222, which has earned its reputation as one of the most coveted sports watches in the watch world today and can […]
Time+Tide
We are bound to follow certain trends no matter which industry we look into. Whether it be fashion, cars, music and, for what concerns us the most, watches. In the past 10 years we went through an intense period during which micro and independent brands would release vintage-inspired dive watches. Then, more recently, GMTs and … ContinuedThe post MICRO MONDAYS: The Rosenbusch Quest is a truly accessible integrated-bracelet sports watch appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Hodinkee
The one rule is, there are no rules.
Deployant
For this week’s musings, we suggest six watches to help you survive the urban jungle. With watches from Bell & Ross, Chopard, Citizen, GO, Zenih and Piaget.
Time+Tide
This year the Bulgari Octo Roma received a long overdue makeover that brings it more in line with its more flashy sibling Finissimo. Not only do the changes add welcome continuity across the collection, but also a little extra elegance to the collection’s more affordable but no less delightful offering. I would hazard a guess … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: Why the new Bulgari Octo Roma Automatic won me over with its quiet luxury appeal appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
The notion of a nature-inspired watch is nothing new for Grand Seiko, it is certainly their M.O. But when the Grand Seiko SBGJ269 “Pink Flannel Flower” Limited Edition was released last year it was a huge deal for multiple reasons. Firstly, the SBGJ269 was the first-ever Australian limited edition from Grand Seiko. Secondly, the 50-piece … ContinuedThe post UPDATE: The winner of the Grand Seiko AU SBGJ269 auction will also get a VIP trip to Japan – under one condition appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
Longines’ classic Flagship line gets a handsome new 38.5mm Heritage model in three colourways The new models feature both a moonphase and calendar function on a well-balanced dial The original Flagship made its debut in 1957, and was one of Longines’ first wristwatch collections Longines are one of the oldest watch brands in the world, … ContinuedThe post Longines send you over the moon with their newest Flagship Heritage appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Worn & Wound
Editor’s Note: In this edition of the 3 Watch Collection for $5,000, reader Ben Roth shares a trio of all-time classics that span genres and styles. We love this collection for its authenticity and inspiration, with all three of these watches actually appearing in Ben’s collection. If you’d like to submit your own 3 watch collection for $5,000 can you do so at the form right here. I gave myself an additional challenge when choosing my three watches for $5,000, in that I didn’t want to put anything on the list that I actually own. What I wanted to dig into is exactly what I look for in the watches I wear and what pieces completely reflect what I’m looking for (and stay within the price limit.) What came from this challenge is a sharp and subtle collection that references my favorite books and movies while also being completely functional for everything life can throw at a person. Doxa Sub 300T Caribbean – $1,890 A Doxa Sub 300T was the first watch I thought of for this collection, and I was originally going to pick the black Sharkhunter colorway. The blue Caribbean won out, however, because if I were ever to do the impossible and become a one watch guy a blue dive watch would be my pick. The Caribbean colorway honors that, and if the Sub 300T is good enough for the likes of Dirk Pitt and Robert Redford in Three Days of the Condor then it’s certainly good enough for me. It would also be amazing on a nato strap for the summer, and I could see myself wearing...
Hodinkee
Plus a throwback Breitling Re-edition LE and a Breguet Moonphase in this week's curated selection of what the Hodinkee Shop has to offer.
Worn & Wound
If you’ve ever spent a considerable time around the ocean, there’s a really good chance that you’ve noticed just how much trash lies in the water and on the shore. Even in the most pristine of destinations, a plastic bag or bottle always manages to make its way there. When a watch brand makes an effort to remove plastics from their supply chain, it’s worth taking notice. Inspired by the varying shades of blue and green that make up our oceans and seas, this Promaster Dive watch from Citizen features several recycled materials to make up its stunning dial and bezel. Let’s take a closer look. If you’ve ever spent a considerable time around the ocean, there’s a really good chance that you’ve noticed just how much trash lies in the water and on the shore. Even in the most pristine of destinations, a plastic bag or bottle always manages to make its way there. When a watch brand makes an effort to remove plastics from their supply chain, it’s worth taking notice. Inspired by the varying shades of blue and green that make up our oceans and seas, this Promaster Dive watch from Citizen features several recycled materials to make up its stunning dial and bezel. Let’s take a closer look. The post Now in the Shop: Citizen’s “Unite with Blue” Sustainable Dive Watch appeared first on Worn & Wound.
Time+Tide
The Citizen Promaster Dive 37mm shrinks down the crowd-favourite dive watch. Despite its reduced size, it retains all necessary diving specifications. Three models are available in black, blue or grey with a gold PVD case. Given the sheer amount of dive watches which get released every day, it’s pretty common for them to include some … ContinuedThe post The Citizen Promaster Dive 37mm is a no-gimmick joy for smaller tastes appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Breguet has unveiled a unique version of its world time wristwatch for Only Watch, the highly anticipated charity auction. The Marine Hora Mundi 5555 “Only Watch 2023” is dressed in striking, rich colours that are unusual for Breguet, bringing a new face to the jumping display, dual time sports watch with a dial that’s a twist on the traditional world map motif. The dial features a gilded globe that’s a representation of the lighted areas of the world at night. Initial thoughts Since its debut last year, the Marine Hora Mundi has remained a hidden gem. The watch boasts a clever jumping dual-time complication and it is also a luxury-sports watch, the most popular segment of watchmaking in recent years. While the production version of the Hora Mundi has a dial that feels relatively flat, the Only Watch edition is far more striking. The dial motif is a clever concept that has not been used before in watchmaking, where gilded accents are used to represent the world’s population. Moreover, the dial does away with the latitude and longitude lines found on the original, making the map and guilloche more prominent. Given the aesthetic appeal of this dial design, we hope that a similar design will be introduced for the regular production model following Only Watch. But for now, the charity auction will be the only chance to land this Hora Mundi. It carries an estimate of CHF70,000 to CHF80,000, a modest price estimate. It anticipated that this will be readily exceeded dur...
Hodinkee
With decades of experience, and tutelage from one of the best, Schlüchter just announced his first of a line of creative and emotional watches covering past, present, and future.
Time+Tide
Oh the fear of missing out (or FOMO as the kids say) is real. As I scroll through Instagram stalking the GS9 Club events around the world, I can’t help but ask why? Why am I not there sipping on sake, fondling Grand Seiko after Grand Seiko? When is Australia launching our very own GS9 … ContinuedThe post The Grand Seiko GS9 Club for Australia and New Zealand is finally here appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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