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Greubel Forsey Unveils the Gimballed Tourbillon Cardan SJX Watches
Greubel Forsey Unveils Oct 25, 2023

Greubel Forsey Unveils the Gimballed Tourbillon Cardan

Having teased the launch of its eighth “fundamental invention” earlier this summer, Greubel Forsey has unveiled the Tourbillon Cardan featuring a 16-second inclined tourbillon suspended by a set of cardans, otherwise known as universal joints or gimbals. And for the nerds: the tourbillon is suspended in a mechanised gimbal that makes a fixed oscillation driven by the tourbillon, rather than a free-swivelling gimbal with differential gearing. Initial thoughts Despite a recent focus on sport watches, the Tourbillon Cardan is a reminder that no one does oversized, over-engineered watches quite like Greubel Forsey. The Tourbillon Cardan feels like a bridge between the past and future of the brand, suggesting the Tourbillon Cardan has been in development for several years. The dynamic and visually compelling nature of the tourbillon, the large sizing, and the traditional form of the case recall the Greubel Forsey of years past, while the minimalist aesthetic and the choice of titanium for the case material are clear hallmarks of the brand’s future trajectory. Impressive as it is, the swivelling tourbillon is not entirely a new idea. Zenith once had a double-axis gimballed escapement in its catalogue that was more complex than the Tourbillon Cardan but suffered from so-so reliability due to that very complexity. Greubel Forsey has approached the gimbals in a more concise manner, with the gimbals oscillating in a fixed motion that is being by the rotation of the tourbillon...

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Windup Watch Shop Alternatives to the Swatch x Blancpain Worn & Wound
Blancpain It’s tricky business finding Oct 24, 2023

Windup Watch Shop Alternatives to the Swatch x Blancpain

It’s tricky business finding alternatives to the Swatch x Blancpain Fifty Fathoms; seldom do we see high-low collaborations of this kind in the industry. Indeed the bioceramic dive watch looms large in the minds of both collectors and the mainstream public, and for good reason. While the lightweight colorful dive watch is great fun, however, those who are looking beyond the hype for more substantial dive watches around a similar price point should consider these options here in the Windup Watch Shop. It’s tricky business finding alternatives to the Swatch x Blancpain Fifty Fathoms; seldom do we see high-low collaborations of this kind in the industry. Indeed the bioceramic dive watch looms large in the minds of both collectors and the mainstream public, and for good reason. While the lightweight colorful dive watch is great fun, however, those who are looking beyond the hype for more substantial dive watches around a similar price point should consider these options here in the Windup Watch Shop. The post Windup Watch Shop Alternatives to the Swatch x Blancpain appeared first on Worn & Wound.

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TAG Heuer Brings Vintage Charm with the Carrera “Glassbox” in Yellow Gold SJX Watches
TAG Heuer Brings Vintage Charm Oct 24, 2023

TAG Heuer Brings Vintage Charm with the Carrera “Glassbox” in Yellow Gold

The Carrera line takes a luxurious turn with a new chronograph sporting a yellow gold case and matching yellow gold-plated dial, complemented by contrasting matte black sub-dials. The Carrera Chronograph “Glassbox” pays homage to a similar creation from the 1960s, the Carrera ref. 1158 CHN, which is known among collectors for its bold, all-gold design. Initial thoughts A precious metal sports watch often sparks debate about the relevance of the case material, particularly for brands not typically associated with pure luxury. However, TAG Heuer’s decision to execute its new Glassbox in the memorable “John Player Special” colour scheme of gold and black inspired by the ref. 1158 CHN is commendable. Moreover, it is a logical next step for TAG Heuer following the recent unveiling of the Carrera Chronosprint x Porsche, which is also available in rose gold.  This fusion of heritage and refinement brings a unique and distinguished touch to the ordinarily functional Carrera. The result is an appealing chronograph with a hint of vintage luxury that effectively showcases the distinctive Glassbox case.  The price tag for the gold Carrera is comparable to that of the rose gold Chronosprint x Porsche, which means the price is expected and appropriate though not quite a bargain. However, the Chronosprint boasts a more complex movement, making it a better value proposition – though the new Carrera is certainly more appealing in terms of design. The legendary gold Carrera 11...

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Bell & Ross Looks to the Motorcycle World for their Latest, the BR 03-94 Blacktrack Worn & Wound
Bell & Ross Looks Oct 23, 2023

Bell & Ross Looks to the Motorcycle World for their Latest, the BR 03-94 Blacktrack

One of my favorite episodes of Seinfeld is “The Chicken Roaster,” the eighth episode of season 8. You probably remember this one: it involves a Kenny Rogers Roasters restaurant opening across the street from Kramer’s apartment, and eventually he switches apartments with Jerry to get some sleep (because obviously the big neon sign is keeping him up all night) which leads to some of the funniest moments in the history of the show (Jerry’s recollection of a late night phone call with Bob Sacamano will always stay with me). But the B-plot is great, too. It follows George and his saga with a Russian hat, intentionally left behind in the apartment of the woman who sold it to him, who of course he tries to date. This is a trick, he explains, to keep her interested. Like a jingle you can’t get out of your head. And that’s kind of how I feel about Bell & Ross. They have worked their way into my brain like a catchy pop song. They’re a mainstream brand that is capable of doing some truly weird stuff, and as someone who spends a lot of time observing and thinking about industry trends, I just find that fascinating. Their latest, the BR 03-94 Blacktrack, is squarely in the weird category, and a rare collaboration with an outside designer, Sacha Lakic.  Lakic is known primarily for being the founder of Blacktrack, a Luxembourg based maker of custom cafe racers and other motorcycles. The new BR 03-94 takes specific inspiration from his BT-06 motorcycle, which can be seen p...

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Fears Release New Versions of the Brunswick 40 SJX Watches
Panerai Radiomir Quaranta Oct 23, 2023

Fears Release New Versions of the Brunswick 40

British watch brand Fears has revealed new dial colours for one of its primary offerings, the Brunswick 40. The new variants are the Aurora with a mother-of-pearl dial, and the Copper Salmon with its eponymous metallic finish. But the two are not just cosmetic updates as the model has also undergone some improvements, including a larger 40 mm case and a novel typeface employed for the numerals. Initial thoughts Since the re-establishment of the Fears brand six years ago, I have always held an appreciation for the vintage-inspired design of the Brunswick in particular, with its cushion-shaped case and the subtle dial detailing. The highlight among the new additions would be the Aurora, which stands out from the rest of the Fears catalogue. Its mother-of-pearl dial that is comprised of two parts and finished by hand, giving each dial a unique look. The Aurora Having said that, the large case size of 40 mm does leave the new Brunswick somewhat substantial especially given its shape, bringing to mind to the Panerai Radiomir Quaranta. And with a case height of about 11 mm – not thick but not thin either – the case will sit fairly tall on the wrist. The pricing of the new Brunswick depends on the dial: the Copper Salmon is priced at £3,550 with a strap, while the Aurora is available for £3,850, with either being approximately £200 more with the bracelet. These prices are consistent with the existing models in the current collection. Considering the intrinsic features of ...

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Watches, Stories, & Gear: A Crazy Hot Wheels Collection, a Cider Donut Map, and the Works of Mike Flanagan Worn & Wound
Oct 21, 2023

Watches, Stories, & Gear: A Crazy Hot Wheels Collection, a Cider Donut Map, and the Works of Mike Flanagan

“Watches, Stories, and Gear” is a roundup of our favorite content, watch or otherwise, from around the internet. Here, we support other creators, explore interesting content that inspires us, and put a spotlight on causes we believe in. Oh, and any gear we happen to be digging on this week. We love gear. Share your story ideas or interesting finds by emailing us at info@wornandwound.com The Microsoft x Activision Deal is Final Microsoft, after many months of negotiations with regulatory bodies across the globe, has finalized their purchase of Activision, set to be the largest consumer tech acquisition in over twenty years. It’s a huge deal if you’re interested in gaming, for sure, but it’s an even bigger development in the world of tech writ large, and a sign that regulators who have tried to stifle the Microsofts, Googles, and Metas of the world from growing too large and powerful might be out of luck. The New York Times has the story, along with an analysis of what this deal might signify for companies the size of Microsoft going forward. Every Mike Flanagan Project, Ranked If you’re a horror movie fan, you’re coming to the end of what is probably your favorite month of the year. Horror movies (and TV series) just hit different in October. This year, as always, there’s an influx of high profile films and limited series with a spooky bent making their debut ahead of Halloween, and perhaps no single project has been more anticipated than The Fall of the Hou...

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Our Editor Zach Blass was a guest on the latest episode of Wrist Check Podcast Time+Tide
Oct 21, 2023

Our Editor Zach Blass was a guest on the latest episode of Wrist Check Podcast

This is less a recommended reading, and more so a recommended listening or viewing. A long time coming, schedules finally aligned and our Editor Zach Blass was able to join Peri and Ben, two thirds of the trio behind the burgeoning Wrist Check Podcast, to talk watches. Wrist Check explains: “Wrist Check is a weekly … ContinuedThe post Our Editor Zach Blass was a guest on the latest episode of Wrist Check Podcast appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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Fears Brings Mother of Pearl to the Brunswick, But Not In the Way You Might Expect Worn & Wound
Formex has used it Oct 20, 2023

Fears Brings Mother of Pearl to the Brunswick, But Not In the Way You Might Expect

Fears continues to expand their classic Brunswick collection with the release of two new references: one of which brings their beautiful copper salmon dial to the 40mm case, and another called Aurora, which subverts expectations around mother of pearl dials. The new watches follow the brand’s subtle yet distinctive design language, feeling familiar yet new at the same time. Mother of pearl likely elicits a very specific reaction, but Fears looks to change that with the new Aurora, placing it within more neutral territory, accessible to both masculine and feminine sensibilities.  While I’m not sure that this will become a trend, this isn’t the first time we’ve seen this material used in unexpected ways. Oris has found creative ways to bring this treatment to their Aquis, and even Formex has used it in their Essence 39. In both instances, the mother of pearl element is given an accent color, and it’s the same case with this new Brunswick from Fears. There are blue tones at work on multiple levels of the dial, creating a slight deviation between the outer and inner portions. Mother of pearl is a dynamic material that shifts in appearance quite easily, from any angle, and in any light. It’s the perfect expression of a similar phenomenon, the aurora (borealis in the north, australis in the south), an ever changing interaction between the solar wind and the earth’s magnetosphere. Each brings a quality that’s difficult to capture in a moment, or describe in words...

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The 25 Most Expensive Watches Ever Sold at Auction Teddy Baldassarre
Oct 20, 2023

The 25 Most Expensive Watches Ever Sold at Auction

How much would you pay for a watch? What if it was the only one of its kind, or a record-breaker in terms of complications, or once owned by someone famous or historically significant? And just how expensive are the most expensive watches to ever change hands in a sale? In today's red-hot watch auction market, the answers, and the sums, may surprise you. Here we run down the list of the top 25 watches in descending order of the price they fetched on the auction block, while spotlighting some of the timepieces with the most fascinating backstories and representing the most impressive technical achievements. You'll find the expected abundance of watches from Patek Philippe and Rolex (the clear leaders in the category) but also a few from other watchmakers, large and small, who've recently broken into the upper echelon. At the end, we'll spotlight the highest selling watches from a few other brands that didn't crack the top 25 but maintain a robust presence on the watch auction scene. 1. Patek Philippe Grandmaster Chime Ref. 6300A-010 ($31.19 million, 2019, Christie’s) Patek Philippe unveiled the first Grandmaster Chime watch in 2014 as part of the many celebrations around the Genevan maison’s 175the anniversary. The reference that made history at the Only Watch auction in Geneva in 2019 was a unique piece, the only Grandmaster Chime ever crafted in stainless steel; the Grandmaster Chime models in Patek’s regular collection are all made in precious metals. The watch...

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Habring2 Introduces the Shellman 50th Anniversary Black “Gilt” SJX Watches
Oct 20, 2023

Habring2 Introduces the Shellman 50th Anniversary Black “Gilt”

Following the anniversary edition with a silvered “sector” dial, Tokyo retailer Shellman announces another small-run limited edition with the Habring² Shellman 50th Anniversary “Black”. Available as a chronograph or time-only, the new edition is limited to just 15 watches each. It retains the dial design of the earlier edition, but now in a black “gilt” finish and matched with a stepped bezel. Initial thoughts Vintage-inspired “sector” dials aren’t novel at all, but the new Shellman duo, like the original edition, stand out for their details. At the same time, the fact that they are Habring² means the price-performance ratio is excellent. Amongst the details that make this appealing are the applied markers, gold-powder print, as well as the matched silvered hands for the chronograph. These reveal an attention to detail in the design – unsurprising since Shellman is a respected seller of vintage watches – proving the whole here is greater than the sum of the parts. Though these are slightly more expensive than the first edition – the price is up about 10% – both models now include a steel bracelet. Add to that the weak Japanese yen, and these are a greater value buy than the original pair. Vintage-inspired Created to mark Shellman’s 50th anniversary, the original silver dial model was a nod to the retailer’s 2017 Habring² limited edition – which was launched well before “sector” dials became a fad. The new pair continue with the same ...

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Watches and What Else: the Intersection of Pens and Horology with Brett Braley-Palko Worn & Wound
Oct 19, 2023

Watches and What Else: the Intersection of Pens and Horology with Brett Braley-Palko

Editor’s Note: Watches and What Else is a continuing series where we look at some of the other things our watch collecting community is interested in. We’ve always found watch collectors to be a curious, well rounded bunch, and in this series we’re going to explore a variety of the watch adjacent (and sometimes, not so adjacent) interests of collectors of all stripes. From illustration to aviation, video games and comics to heavy metal and craft cocktails, there’s a lot to explore, and we think you’ll enjoy diving into the pursuits that your fellow watch enthusiasts are passionate about.  This week, Chris Antzoulis talks to novelist, pen industry veteran, and Worn & Wound contributor Brett Braley-Palko about the unexpected connections between mechanical watches and fine writing instruments.  If you stay current with what’s up in the watch space by consuming your daily fill of articles here at Worn & Wound, then you will recognize the name of my subject this month. Brett Braley-Palko is also a fellow W&W; contributor, a watch enthusiast, and an all-around guru on style. However, this is a writer who takes his scribbling seriously. He has quite the collection of pens and is more than happy to share this love with the rest of us.  Watches Brett fell into the world of watches within the last year and says “the threshold into getting into any industry with a big cult following is to recognize your level of expertise and being humble with it […] When I first st...

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A History Lesson With the Military Watches of Bulova Worn & Wound
Bulova Bulova has Oct 19, 2023

A History Lesson With the Military Watches of Bulova

Bulova has a long history of providing watches to the US military. When the US Armed Forces put out a specification for watches, Bulova was one of the most prominent brands to answer the call. We’re happy to offer a wide range of Bulova military watches in the shop, and we’ve paired up each of them with a nylon ADPT strap for a limited time. Let’s take a closer look at these watches, along with their perfectly-paired straps. Bulova has a long history of providing watches to the US military. When the US Armed Forces put out a specification for watches, Bulova was one of the most prominent brands to answer the call. We’re happy to offer a wide range of Bulova military watches in the shop, and we’ve paired up each of them with a nylon ADPT strap for a limited time. Let’s take a closer look at these watches, along with their perfectly-paired straps. The post A History Lesson With the Military Watches of Bulova appeared first on Worn & Wound.

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