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Display vs Solid Caseback

Sapphire window vs engraved metal. Haute-horlogerie standard since 1985 vs the Submariner / Daytona / Speedmaster heritage.

Thinking outside the (watch) box with Jaeger-LeCoultre and designer Henry Wilson Time+Tide
Jaeger-LeCoultre Nov 22, 2021

Thinking outside the (watch) box with Jaeger-LeCoultre and designer Henry Wilson

If you’ve been collecting watches for any meaningful length of time, you’ve probably got the storage of said timepieces sorted out. But let me ask you this: do you actually display your watches? No doubt a great deal of time, effort and thought has gone into curating your collection. It should be a reflection of  … ContinuedThe post Thinking outside the (watch) box with Jaeger-LeCoultre and designer Henry Wilson appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Exhibition: A. Lange & Söhne ‘Exceptional Masterpieces’ in Singapore SJX Watches
A. Lange & Sohne Nov 21, 2021

Exhibition: A. Lange & Söhne ‘Exceptional Masterpieces’ in Singapore

After a pandemic-induced hiatus, A. Lange & Söhne is staging its first exhibition in Singapore since 2019. Taking place at the National Gallery Singapore, a historical building that was once the country’s supreme court, Exceptional Masterpieces happens from December 1-5, with public entry starting on December 3 (though registration is required). “This exhibition, as well as the rare and special watches on display, will allow those who might not know us well to have a better understanding of the brand,” explains Charles Langlois, Managing Director for South East Asia and Australia. Lange 1 Tourbillon Handwerkskunst 1815 Tourbillon Handwerkskunst Alongside displays explaining many of the artisanal techniques employed by the brand to decorate and embellish its watches, the exhibition includes a few 19th century Lange pocket watches that illustrate the origins of the brand. But the highlight for most enthusiasts will be the 30 limited edition Lange wristwatches on show. Segmented into three themes – Honey Gold, Lumen, and Handwerkskunst – the wristwatch display is a stellar line up of some of the most desirable Lange wristwatches. The Tourbograph and 1815 Moon Phase from the 165th Anniversary “Homage to F.A. Lange” set The Tourbograph prototype with an undecorated movement Almost every model within each series will be on display, including the 175th anniversary Honey Gold trio launched last year and the Richard Lange Tourbillon “Pour Le Merite” Handwerksu...

In-Depth: F.P. Journe FFC Blue “Francis Ford Coppola” SJX Watches
F.P. Journe FFC Blue “Francis Ford Oct 31, 2021

In-Depth: F.P. Journe FFC Blue “Francis Ford Coppola”

Francois-Paul Journe’s creation for Only Watch 2021, the F.P. Journe FFC Blue, sticks to a familiar template. Like prior watches conceived for the biennial charity auction – the tourbillon of 2015, split-seconds chronograph of 2017, and the Astronomic of 2019 – this year’s timepiece has a tantalum case and blue dial. But FFC Blue is a strikingly unique watch – the five-fingered time display is a first in watchmaking. Though it has a conventional round case, the FFC Blue is conceptually closer to the unconventional Vagabondage watches than the brand’s round watches. Short for Francis Ford Coppola, the FFC Blue originated with a question posed to Mr Journe by the director of The Godfather and Apocalypse Now in 2012. Mr Coppola suggested a watch that indicated the time with human hand. Over the following years Mr Journe worked on the concept, with Mr Coppola suggesting the finger positions to indicate each hour. And now the filmmaker’s idea has been realised as a one-off creation for the charity auction. Though entirely unique compared with F.P. Journe’s other creations, the FFC is powered by the workhorse cal. 1300 of the Octa series Initial thoughts I found the hand-display concept intensely compelling when Mr Journe described it during my visit to Geneva in 2017. In the metal the FFC is equally compelling. It is inventive and appealing. It’s rather large at 42 mm in diameter, though like nearly all F.P. Journe watches it is unusually thin given the c...

Urwerk Unveils the UR-112 Aggregat SJX Watches
Urwerk Unveils Oct 27, 2021

Urwerk Unveils the UR-112 Aggregat

For some two-and-a-half decades, Urwerk – along with a handful of other independent watchmakers – has been at the cutting edge of the the presentation of time. While the three-dimensional, satellite-cube hours has long been its trademark complication, Urwerk has nevertheless continued to evolve its mechanics, resulting in similarly futuristic watches such as the UR-111C with its linear time display on a rotating drum. And its latest invention is perhaps the brand’s most notable since the debut of the satellite cube display. A followup to the UR-111C, the UR-112 Aggregat retains the same form as its immediate predecessor, and continues to display hours and minutes displayed in a pair of glass cylinders. But the UR-112 is more complicated, with the hours and minutes indicated by swivelling prisms. And its case has an aggressive, military feel that brings to mind the Tumbler of Christopher Nolan’s Dark Knight films. Initial thoughts As the UR-112 is part of the Special Project Collection – the models within are essentially one-off production runs – it is disconnected with Urwerk’s recent inclination towards slimmer, streamlined designs. The UR-112 is an appealing and intriguing example of watchmaking, and very much typical of Urwerk. Importantly, it is impressive yet unpretentious – it does not replicate past designs, nor does it try to be fashionable. Notable for being entirely digital with its time display, the UR-112 indicates the the hours and minutes ...

A. Lange & Söhne Introduces the Zeitwerk Honey Gold “Lumen” SJX Watches
A. Lange & Sohne Oct 24, 2021

A. Lange & Söhne Introduces the Zeitwerk Honey Gold “Lumen”

Having launched the second-generation Zeitwerk movement two years ago with a date display, A. Lange & Söhne has now upgraded the base model with the same calibre – except it’s not exactly a base model. Limited to 200 watches, the Zeitwerk Honey Gold “Lumen” reimagines the Zeitwerk Phantom of 2010, but with a second-generation movement – which means a longer power reserve and quickset hours – and a case in 18k Honeygold, the brand’s proprietary gold alloy. Initial thoughts Lange is certainly introducing second-generation Zeitwerk in style. The combination of Honeygold and the tinted sapphire dial is striking – it is a good looking watch – while the improved movement removes all of the inconveniences of the first-generation calibre. It is essentially a revisit of the Zeitwerk Phantom, but that takes nothing away from it. Enough time has passed since the Phantom that an encore is welcome, and it is also different enough with the Honeygold case and second-generation calibre. The only bit I wish was different is the red marking on the power reserve indicator. I’m not a fan because it jumps out relative to the rest of the dial, and adds colour to what should be a monochromatic design. At €114,000 the new Zeitwerk is a chunk of change but it’s not exorbitant considering the complication. And perhaps more relevant is the fact the secondary market values for past Lumen editions have escalated rapidly, which makes this inexpensive in comparison. Mechanic...

Quick Take: Longines Legend Diver Watch in Gradient Blue and Brown SJX Watches
Longines Legend Diver Watch Oct 15, 2021

Quick Take: Longines Legend Diver Watch in Gradient Blue and Brown

Introduced in 2007 as Longines’ first remake of a vintage sports watch, the original Legend Diver was one of the earliest entries into the vintage-reissue segment. And it was a faithful recreation that managed to channel the look and feel of the vintage-original ref. 7042, though Longines subsequently added a date display to the model. In recent years, however, Longines begun to inject contemporary style into its remakes, including the Legend Diver, with last year’s 42 mm model in bronze with a striking, green fumé dial being a prime example. This year saw a continuation of the trend with a pair of new dials – in either blue or brown with a smoked finish – for the full-sized Legend Diver Watch in steel. Initial thoughts My first impression of the duo was simple: they are appealing in both design and colour. The design is clearly vintage; the remake stays true to the original. Its best feature is the inner rotating bezel adjusted via a second crown, which immediately sets it apart from typical dive watches that usually have a bulky external bezel. But important is the colour, which unlike the design it is a modern addition. Though fashionable today, gradient or dégradé dials are were actually a thing in the 1970s, though never found on the vintage original. The smoked dials lends the watch a youthful and contemporary feel. The blue is the most striking, though I personally prefer the warm and nostalgic brown dial that evokes a “tropical” dial. While t...

In-Depth: Ferdinand Berthoud FB RS Régulateur Squelette SJX Watches
Ferdinand Berthoud Oct 6, 2021

In-Depth: Ferdinand Berthoud FB RS Régulateur Squelette

Having launched one of the best watches of 2020 with the spectacularly decorated Chronomètre FB 2RE, Ferdinand Berthoud (FB) returned to its very first model this year, remaking the FB 1 by bestowing upon it an open-worked movement accompanied by more contemporary styling. The result is the Ferdinand Berthoud FB RS – short for Régulateur Squelette, or “regulator skeleton”, which tidily sums up the time display format as well as the movement. Like the original FB 1, the new model has both a tourbillon as well as a chain and fusée. Notably, the FB RS is actually two models but equipped with the same movement, the FB-T.FC-RS. One is an octagonal case in sandblasted steel, the decidedly modern FB 1RS.6, while the other is the more conventional FB 2RS.2 in a round case of polished 18k rose gold. The FB-T.FC-RS While the two versions are quite different in terms of style, both share a similarly large diameter – resulting from the calibre within that boasts exemplary construction and finishing. The FB 1RS.6 in steel The FB 2RS.2 in gold Initial thoughts FB’s watches are best described as big and chunky – too big mostly – with equipped with exceptional movements. And the models with a tourbillon are especially big. Because of the their size, FB tourbillons tended to have a wide, empty expanse on the dial (which was dressed up with italic script in recent models). In contrast, the FB RS does away with all that empty real estate by uncovering the mechanics b...

Louis Erard Introduces the Regulator in Lapis, Malachite, and Aventurine SJX Watches
Louis Erard Introduces Aug 31, 2021

Louis Erard Introduces the Regulator in Lapis, Malachite, and Aventurine

Louis Erard has embarked on a journey into the realm of special dials lately, starting with grand feu enamel and followed by hand-made guilloche – done affordably as is typical of the brand. And now Louis Erard is continuing apace with Excellence Régulateur featuring dials in lapis lazuli, malachite, or aventurine glass. But this time, however, the special dials are different. Louis Erard has opted for its signature regulator-style display, instead of the time-only format used on earlier editions, adding more character to the exotic-material dials.  Initial thoughts Regulators have long been a specialty of Louis Erard, and it’s a complication that’s uncommon this price point, especially a regulator with in-line hours, minutes, and seconds. The regulator watch has been the base for several interesting limited editions, especially the collabs with Alain Silberstein and Vianney Halter. Despite not being a collab with a notable personality, the latest regularly is equally interesting, because the dial materials are typically found in watches at a much higher price point. Recent examples including the platinum Omega Seamaster 300 or even the multi-million dollar, piece unique Rolex Daytona in platinum. In contrast, the new regulator is relatively affordable at just under US$3,200. At the same time, the regulator also costs less than the earlier special editions, namely the models with guilloche or enamel dials, making it an even better value proposition. Tho...

‘Time Bandit’: The Urwerk Opus 5 For Harry Winston That Almost Was - Reprise Quill & Pad
Urwerk Opus 5 Aug 22, 2021

‘Time Bandit’: The Urwerk Opus 5 For Harry Winston That Almost Was - Reprise

The Opus 5 by Felix Baumgartner/Urwerk for Harry Winston is one of the best of this series of exceptional timepieces. But, as this drawing by Urwerk designer Martin Frei from June of 2003 shows, one of the original ideas behind Urwerk’s Opus 5 was a digital display in a model christened with the working title "Time Bandit." Check out this superb almost-was timepiece!

Chanel Introduces the Monsieur Superleggera Edition SJX Watches
Chanel Introduces Aug 17, 2021

Chanel Introduces the Monsieur Superleggera Edition

Essentially a dressed-up version of the Monsieur in black ceramic, the Monsieur Superleggera Edition takes inspiration from the J12 Superleggera, a chronograph named after the ultra-light racing cars of the mid-20th century. Like the J12, the Monsieur Superleggera has an obvious automotive theme in its design, with its time display redesigned to resemble a speedometer. Initial thoughts I’m a fan of the Monsieur de Chanel in its earlier iterations, including the original model in “beige” gold and more recent version in ceramic and marble. They were all clean, stylish, and mostly monochromatic – and equipped with a sophisticated, attractive movement. The Superleggera Edition has the same movement, but the style is the opposite. It has a techno-automotive style that tries a bit too hard for my tastes. While the texturing and scales have a clear automotive inspiration, they don’t add much to the visual appeal of the watch. Ironically, the inspiration for the new Monsieur, the J12 Superleggera of 2005, actually looks more streamlined, despite being a chronograph. Still, the Monsieur Superleggera probably like a fancy bodykit for a car – it’ll divide opinions. Anyone who finds the plainer Monsieur boring would applaud this. Superleggera  Italian for “super light”, Superleggera was an Italian coachbuilder that specialised in lightweight automobile bodies comprising a tubular steel frame cover in thin, aluminium-alloy panels. Perhaps the most famous automobile w...

Tutima Introduces the M2 Seven Seas S SJX Watches
Tutima Jul 30, 2021

Tutima Introduces the M2 Seven Seas S

Historically a supplier of timepieces to the German military and police, Tutima now offers a broad line of “tool” watches. The latest from the Glashütte-based brand is the M2 Seven Seas S, the first version of its dive watch with a steel case (prior models are all titanium). Initial thoughts Tutima’s M2 line of sports watches are all big and solid, with chunky but streamlined cases modelled on the ref. 798 chronograph the brand once supplied to the German military. While simple, they are effective tool watches. The Seven Seas S sticks to the same formula, except in steel. That means it’s heavier, which might not be for everyone given the size. But the steel has the upside of a brushed finished with some polished accents, giving the case and bracelet a more varied look than the uniform sandblasted finish of the titanium model. But the best thing about the Seven Seas S is the version with a yellow dégradé dial, which darkens to a green-black at its edges. It’s an unusual and striking finish that sets the Seven Seas S apart from most of the competition. The only drawback with the new Seven Seas is the ETA 2824 inside. It’s robust and easy to service, but has a short power reserve of just 38 hours, which means it’ll probably stop if off the wrist for more than a day. Power reserves of 50 to 70 hours are now the industry norm, even at the entry level, so this disadvantages the Seven Seas. The Seven Seas S is relatively affordable and fairly competitively price...

Konstantin Chaykin Introduces the Wristmon Minotaur SJX Watches
Zodiac edition Jul 28, 2021

Konstantin Chaykin Introduces the Wristmon Minotaur

Four years after the debut of the Joker – and its myriad subsequent iterations – Russian independent watchmaker Konstantin Chaykin still manages to surprise and impress. The latest version of Chaykin’s googly-eyed wristwatch is the Wristmon Minotaur. The third instalment in the watchmaker’s annual Chinese zodiac edition, the Minotaur has a case and dial that mimics the head of a bull, since 2021 is the Year of the Ox. Although its hour and minute display are identical to the early versions of the Joker, the Minotaur has been upgraded in several ways, including with a dual-letter day display and a Vaucher base movement. Initial thoughts The Minotaur is another excellent design by Mr Chaykin, and one of his more amusing creations since the original Joker. Not only does the dial form a face, but the case has been reworked to resemble a bull’s head with asymmetric lugs where the upper pair resemble a pair of horns. More importantly, the Minotaur is not merely a tweak of colour or design. Its functionality has been revamped, namely with the nostril display that shows the first two letters of the day. In fact, the novel day display is another example of Mr Chaykin’s ingenious realisation of function following form, but done well enough that it feels just right. And the price of the Minotaur is in line with recent watches in the Wristmon collection, which is around US$22,000. While significantly pricier than the original Joker that cost around about US$7,500, the new ...

Rado Captain Cook High-Tech Ceramic Hands-on Review WatchAdvice
Rado Captain Cook High-Tech Ceramic Jul 5, 2021

Rado Captain Cook High-Tech Ceramic Hands-on Review

Pros: Comfortable on the wrist for long periods of wearUnlike previous models, the R734 movement is on display – the best one to dateGreat Build quality, High-tech ceramic is a winner for captain cook range Cons: Some may find it thick on the wrist compared to the other captain cook varients The watch will wear big for wrist sizes smaller than 6.5 inches Some may not appreciate the blacked tinted sapphire crystal dial Over All Rating: 8.0/10 Value for money – 7.5/10Wearability – 8.0/10Design – 8/10Build Quality – 8.5/10 If there’s one watch brand that has earned the nickname “Master of Materials”, it is Rado. Being one of the biggest watch manufacturers in Switzerland, Rado uses the latest technology and innovation to create some unique materials for their watches.  Diving into the history of the brand, in 1960 they were the first to create the “world’s first scratchproof watch”, the DiaStar 1. This was done by innovation, through introducing materials into the watch industry that were not known at the time. Materials such as hard metal and sapphire crystal.  In 1970, Rado continued to innovate new materials by coming up with a scratch-resistant and high-tech ceramic bracelet called Rado Integral. This was arguably the first use of high-tech ceramic on a watch by Rado, and it would eventually become the brand’s signature material. In 1990, Rado really stepped things up in their use of ceramic, with this particular year being dubbed as “the cera...

Urwerk Unveils the UR-220 SL Asimov in Carbon and Lume SJX Watches
Urwerk Unveils Jun 30, 2021

Urwerk Unveils the UR-220 SL Asimov in Carbon and Lume

Launched last year, the Urwerk UR-220 ‘Falcon Project’ is a thinner, lighter, and manual-wind version of the watch kitted out with the brand’s trademark satellite-cube display. Now Urwerk has launched the first iteration of its flagship model, the UR-220 SL Asimov. Dressed up with a generous dose of glow-in-the-dark Super-Luminova, the UR-2202 SL has the satellite cubes made of resin infused with Super-Luminova, so each cube glows in its entirety. The luminous display partly explains the name of the watch, which is a reference to Nightfall, the novel by Isaac Asimov about a planet in perpetual daylight that finally experiences night – which brings madness and catastrophe. Felix Baumgartner and Martin Frei, the inventive duo behind Urwerk have long had a distinctive brand of humour. Initial thoughts Often matched with an all-black case, a stylised display in yellow-green lume has long been a key part of Urwerk’s aesthetic, especially for its satellite-cube display watches starting with the UR-201. That makes the solid, lume cubes a coherent addition to the UR-220, both philosophically and stylistically – they are a perfect fit for sci fi-techno style of the watch. Admittedly, the luminous cubes are not a major innovation, but they add almost nothing to the price of the watch. The UR-220 SL Asimov is just CHF2,000 over the standard UR-220 – modest for an upgrade that boosts the visual appeal of the watch. Nevertheless, the novelty of the lume cubes will wear ...

Russian Clockmaker Anton Suhanov Debuts His First Wristwatch SJX Watches
Konstantin Chaykin s workshop which perhaps Jun 24, 2021

Russian Clockmaker Anton Suhanov Debuts His First Wristwatch

Anton Suhanov is best known for impressive desk clocks – the most recent of which features a triple-axis tourbillon within a metallic flower – but he has just unveiled his first timekeeper for the wrist. Inspired by automotive gauges, the Racer Jumping Hour GMT is an inventive take on the dual time zone wristwatch and boasts a double retrograde display along with a jumping hour. Initial thoughts His talents were already evident in his desk clocks, but Mr Suhanov now proves he can be equally imaginative with wristwatches. He once worked in Konstantin Chaykin’s workshop, which perhaps contributed to the novel design. Automotive-inspired watches rarely capture the style of a dashboard without looking silly, but the Racer manages to do so successfully. The design instantly evokes the dashboard of a vintage automobile thanks to several clever design elements, including the tiny canopies over each retrograde display as well as the arched guilloche and tiny jump hour winds that gives the dial a sense of perspective. The Racer is more complex than it looks – the time-display module has as many parts as an entire chronograph movement – although the base movement is a tried and true, but no-frills ETA 2824. Still, with a price of a bit over US$17,000, the Racer offers good value given the original design and mechanical complexity, most of which is accomplished in-house by Mr Suhanov. Inventive design and mechanics The slightly retro dial indicates the hours and minutes o...

Time Trial: Oris Divers Sixty-Five “Cotton Candy” Collection Revolution
Oris Divers Sixty-Five “Cotton Candy” Jun 18, 2021

Time Trial: Oris Divers Sixty-Five “Cotton Candy” Collection

There’s a fresh breeze blowing through the world of watch design and floating on that breeze like a clump of gossamer goodness is Oris’ latest confection: the Divers Sixty-Five “Cotton Candy”. The case is the familiar and popular Divers Sixty-Five bronze, clocking in at a versatile 38mm across, domed sapphire crystal, rated to 100 metres and with a stainless steel caseback concealing the automatic calibre Oris 733 inside. The dial comes in three super sweet flavours, complemented by the use of bronze for the case and bracelet. What remains to be seen is how bronze - famous for how it tends to patina - will interplay with the dial. Will a hint of verdigris make the dials seem that much more delicious? Only time will tell.

Bell & Ross Unveils the BR 03-92 Red Radar Ceramic SJX Watches
Bell & Ross Unveils Jun 9, 2021

Bell & Ross Unveils the BR 03-92 Red Radar Ceramic

First introduced exactly a decade ago, the BR 01-92 Red Radar was one of the brand’s first wristwatches to reproduce a fighter jet’s instrument display, using a red-tinted sapphire crystal and rotating discs to create a dial resembling a flight radar display. A striking and clever idea, the flight-radar time display was unique even amongst the numerous aviation-instrument watches of Bell & Ross (B&R;). Now B&R; is revisiting the concept with the BR 03-92 Red Radar Ceramic, which once again features a radar display but now in the more wearable BR 03 case. Initial thoughts On the surface, the new BR 03-92 Red Radar Ceramic isn’t especially novel. The ceramic case is essentially the same used for last year’s BR 03-92 HUD, while the radar display is modelled on the 2011 original. However, the new Red Radar is a clever rendition of the idea, and a substantial improvement over the earlier version. For one, the case is now 42 mm, making it significantly more wearable than the 46 mm original. And the original also had a black-coated steel case – which typically shows wear and tear as the coating separates from the metal below – while the new model has a ceramic case also that’s scratch-resistant and generally more durable, meaning it will seem pristine even after years of use (though hard knocks or drops can chip or crack ceramic). And the new Red Radar has a more practical dial design than its predecessor, which had hands printed to mimic the sweep of a radar scan, ...

Recommended Reading: The Naked Watchmaker deconstructs the Audemars Piguet Code 11:59 Chronograph Time+Tide
Audemars Piguet Code 11:59 Chronograph May 14, 2021

Recommended Reading: The Naked Watchmaker deconstructs the Audemars Piguet Code 11:59 Chronograph

The Naked Watchmaker is one of our favourite sites for profound insights into what lies behind many an intricate case design and sapphire caseback. This is not a new story, but the raison d’être for TNW is to allow us the pleasure of taking some time to educate ourselves on a deeper level rather than … ContinuedThe post Recommended Reading: The Naked Watchmaker deconstructs the Audemars Piguet Code 11:59 Chronograph appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Swatch Goes Green with Big Bold in Plant-Based Plastic Composite SJX Watches
Ming ly massive diameter May 11, 2021

Swatch Goes Green with Big Bold in Plant-Based Plastic Composite

Having introduced the oversized Big Bold in bright, funky iterations such as the Jelly Fish Neon, Swatch is now going minimalist – and green – with the Big Bold Bioceramic. Clad in solid, pastel colours, the Big Bold Bioceramic is clean and coherent. Though simple, it manages to be interesting in both style and materials. The open-worked dial reveals some of its mechanics, while the case is composite of ceramic and plastic made from plant matter. Initial thoughts For those who appreciate the bold presence of large watches like the Royal Oak Offshore, the Big Bold is a lot of fun at a far more accessible price. So when the Big Bold was launched a few years ago, I very much liked the idea of a 47 mm plastic watch. But I found the earlier iterations to be at either extreme – too funky or too plain. The latest version, however, lands in the sweet spot for me. Vibrant in colour – especially in “power pink” or sky blue – but pared back in design, the new Big Bold also has an open-worked movement that’s intriguing despite being quartz. And the new “bio-sourced” material also adds to the appeal, as does the fact that it only costs a bit over US$100. The Big Bold is ergonomic, despite the seemingly massive diameter. With almost non-existent lugs, its lug-to-lug span is a mere 44.8 mm, a length more commonly found on watches with a diameter of around 36 mm. Despite the wide case, it wears well on most wrists, without a significant overhang on either side of the w...