Deployant
News: Vault V1 watches - a new way of telling time
The Vault V1 watch is a new way of telling the time from a new independent watch brand. We had a look at it and we like it.
17,908 articles · 109 videos found · page 41 of 601
Deployant
The Vault V1 watch is a new way of telling the time from a new independent watch brand. We had a look at it and we like it.
Deployant
Hublot continues their "art of fusion" with a brand new Meca-10 variation, the Hublot Big Bang Meca-10 Magic Gold with 10 day power reserve.
Deployant
Deployant reviews the new Apple Watch and discusses its impact on the world of traditional haute horology
Monochrome
Singer Reimagined releases the Heritage V72, a handsome chronograph powered by a restored new-old-stock Valjoux 72 movement. Beyond an exercise in restoration, Singer pays tribute to the calibre’s iconic architecture, revealing its hidden attributes through elevated finishings that far surpass those of the original movement. Presented in a compact 38.8mm case with a glassbox caseback, […]
SJX Watches
Building on the success of its retro wristwatch, Raymond Weil is marking its 50th anniversary with the Millesime “The Fifty”. While it retains the familiar “sector” dial of the Millesime, the Fifty boasts upgraded mechanics in the form of a “new old stock” Valjoux 236 dating from 1976, the year of brand’s founding by the eponymous Raymond Weil. The Fifty combines the vintage movement with a thoughtful design that includes an appropriately sized 37 mm case – steel but with a white gold bezel no less – and novel texturing on the “sector” dial. Notably, the Fifty is also priced well at under CHF9,000. Initial thoughts The base model Millesime is good for what it is, combining an appealing design with an affordable price. The Fifty is more expensive, but arguably even better, because it still has an appealing aesthetic, but now with an excellent movement and a fair price. Watches powered by a vintage Valjoux 23 usually cost more – Singer Reimagined’s equivalent costs almost double – making the Fifty a good value proposition. And it certainly doesn’t hurt that it evokes the Patek Philippe ref. 1436 “Tasti Tondi”. But it’s more than just accessible; the design of the basic Millesime has been elaborated on in a concise and logical manner. The result is a watch that clearly resembles the standard model, but with finer details, including the linear patterning on the dial centre. I disagree with some minor details, like the luminous hands that don...
SJX Watches
A “new old stock” Rolex or Patek Philippe from the 1950s is a marvel. So this Jehan Cremsdorff pocket watch – which was made around 1650, making it almost 370 years old – is miraculous. So incredible is the Cremsdorff that for pocket watch collectors, the last time it was sold was a landmark event; the watch was the “Bao Dai” or “Paul Newman” or Grandmaster Chime “Only Watch” of the 1980s. Part of the epic collection of pocket watches owned by a late German billionaire, which also includes the George Daniels Space Traveller I, the Cremsdorff watch is an incredible object that has been mysteriously well preserved over the centuries, with only minimal restoration to the enamel. Though little is known about him, Jehan Cremsdorff was a watchmaker active in Paris during the late 17th century. Its immensely elaborate enamel work indicates Cremsdorff probably made the watch for a royal or noble client; the identity of the original owner is lost to time, but the watch came from Sweden when it was first sold publicly. Made of thin sheets of gold, the case is entirely enamelled, inside and out, an artistic accomplishment that was done by a now unknown Parisian enameller. The outer case is decorated with champleve and relief enamel, forming a remarkably intricate and vivid flower motif. And for good measure the outer case is also set with diamonds on both sides. The inside faces of the case are finished in a brilliant turquoise enamel that’s been...
WatchAdvice
Bvlgari’s Aluminium collection is one of their most disruptive collections, but does the cult classic still hold up? Let’s find out! What We Love: Highly wearable Unconventional, fun design Accessible relative to the catalogue What We Don’t: Underdeveloped movement Round lugs get caught under sleeves Can a cult classic become a flagship piece? Overall Rating: 7.5/10 Value for Money: 7/10 Wearability: 8/10 Design: 8/10 Build Quality:7/10 ‘Accessibility’ and ‘Bvlgari’ aren’t two terms that usually go hand-in-hand. This is mostly by design; the Italo-Swiss brand is mostly known for its extreme luxuries, combining the very best of the jewellery and watchmaking industries to do so. This often leads to designs of equally high ambition and extravagance, such as the Octo Finissimo’s record-breaking history or the inspired silhouette of its Diva’s Dream collection. But for as ostentatious as Bvlgari’s average price tag can be, the brand also offers its signature disruption at a relatively accessible price point. Through the Bvlgari Aluminium, a collection assembled from a medley of design cues from watches past, the brand proposes a sporty timepiece that is neither built nor designed like anything else. Not only does the line look like it was frozen in time, but its combination of aluminium and rubber is an experiment in materials unlike anything else on the market. But does the watch’s uniqueness still stand on its own, even when surrounded by a sea of h...
Monochrome
Small changes can go a long way, but when a watch goes from bracelet-only (sort of) to a leather strap, it can go a very long way. Especially when said watch is a true pioneer in the field, with historical relevance and iconic design importance. Sounds like a bold claim, but when it comes to the […]
WristBuzz
California's most interesting independent brings its first complication to the open market, wrapped in tantalum
WristBuzz
The most clever perpetual calendar in the business just got a meaningful upgrade, and it's still only 41 mm
Worn & Wound
I feel that the contemporary watch market has a noticeable lack of fun, exciting, and unique watch case designs. Brands have put a major emphasis on dials made from rare materials or composed of intricate designs recently, but very few companies have put time into producing cases that offer a special experience for the wearer. Round and tank-styled timepieces are, and will forever be, the norm within the watch industry. However, this gap in the modern market gives collectors a chance to look back into vintage catalogs to familiarize themselves with fads and stylistic ventures of previous horological eras. With this in mind, I’d like to take a trip back to 1968 and examine the creation of the Hamilton Fontainebleau series, specifically the 6004 “Day ‘N Date” reference, to exhibit just how innovative case design can truly be. It’s typically an overlooked piece of the design formula, but when a watch features a case profile unlike any other, it certainly stands out among the pack. A Brief History of Fontainebleau and the 6004 In 1966, the patents for Hamilton designer Ulrich Nydegger’s new case were published. A couple of years later, the first few Fontainebleau models hit the market and garnered a decent amount of popularity. It wasn’t until 1969’s Fontainebleau Chrono-Matic chronograph, however, that the line would see a substantial amount of press and recognition for its innovative design. The collectibility of the Chrono-Matic model continues to increase o...
Monochrome
It seems that promoting traditional watchmaking, its crafts and techniques, to protect watchmaking know-how and the women and men behind it, as well as supporting the emergence of new talents, has become quite a recurring theme these days. Don’t get us wrong, we most certainly encourage initiatives such as the Louis Vuitton Watch Prize for […]
Monochrome
A conundrum shared by watchmakers for centuries concerns the issue of constant force, or how to produce a steady, unwavering stream of power from the mainspring to the regulating organ to prevent rate variations and maintain amplitude consistency. The big question is how? Taking the bull by the horns, Girard-Perregaux tackled the dilemma with the […]
Monochrome
Ressence’s partnership with Ahmed Seddiqi & Sons, UAE’s leading watch and jewellery retailer, has produced a series of limited editions over the years, each celebrating local heritage through innovative design. From the Type 1 DXB with its Arabesque-inspired grid motif to the Type 1 Slim DX2, and the Type 1 DX3 featuring traditional Girih geometric […]
Monochrome
The Sport Auto, first released in 2022, wasn’t the first attempt of Laurent Ferrier to create an elegant sports watch with an integrated bracelet. This must be credited to the Grand Sport, a large and high-end model with a tourbillon. However, the Sport Auto was even more important, as it entered the coveted category with […]
Monochrome
Last year, Piaget made a bold move, resurrecting one of its most emblematic watches and designs… The Polo watch was back to its original shape and opulent full gold attire, with a case, bracelet and dial adorned with horizontal gadroons, highlighting Piaget’s unique legacy when it comes to creating fascinating shaped watches. The Piaget Polo […]
Monochrome
The classic Reverso Chronograph, a watch initially presented in 1996, is a piece of great historical importance. It was the first manually wound integrated chronograph to be developed in the post-quartz era, marking the return to classic watchmaking. Last year, Jaeger-LeCoultre presented the Reverso Tribute Chronograph, a Duoface model looking back at this 1990s classic, […]
Revolution
Hodinkee
One size does not fit all. Available in large, small, and mini.
Hodinkee
The Crown published official renderings and publicly commented on the billion-dollar project for the first time since the news of the expansion was announced back in 2022.
Monochrome
While the global economic situation might feel rather pessimistic, the luxury business and the watch and jewellery industry continue to post strong results for the year 2023. Following the announcement of a record year for Swiss watch exports in 2023, as well as strong revenues for both LVMH and Swatch Group, it is now time for […]
Monochrome
A highly important model within the brand’s collection, the Piaget Polo was born in 1979 as a vision of a luxury sports watch with an integrated bracelet. Its distinctive design, which was re-edited in an opulent, faithful full gold model earlier this year (in the frame of the brand’s 150th-anniversary celebrations), the Piaget Polo is […]
Quill & Pad
This Breguet souscription pocket watch number 1836 was created just after the French Revolution in 1796 and was sold in 1807 for £600. A testament to the quality of the movement’s design and the skill of its watchmaker, after more than 200 years it still runs impeccably today, which makes it the perfect role model for Breguet's modern Tradition line.
Worn & Wound
eBay Finds is back! This bi-monthly installment will feature a selection of watches currently listed on eBay that have caught the eye of editor Christoph McNeil (@vintagediver). If you come across any hidden gems on the ‘Bay drop us a note at info@wornandwound.com for potential inclusion! Vintage Girard Perregaux Chronograph Starting this week off strong with an unusual vintage Girard Perregaux chronograph complete with boxes and papers. The large square steel case has some honest wear, but is unpolished and exhibits the original brushed finish. The elapsed time bezel has a few marks but is otherwise in good shape. The blue dial with three white subdials is a beauty and in great condition. The hour and minute hands are bright red and the chrono seconds hand is white, giving the watch a bold and colorful look. The watch is powered by the workhorse Valjoux 7736 manual wind movement, the same movement found in vintage Heuer chronographs among other brands. To top it all off, the watch comes complete with the original inner and outer boxes, and the guarantee and instruction booklets. View auction here Vintage Zodiac Seawolf Automatic Here’s a beauty that you do not find often in this condition. This vintage Zodiac Sea Wolf is a real stunner. This no-date model with the metal bezel is one of the fist generations of Sea Wolf and honestly are usually found in very worn condition. This example is super clean, with an unpolished steel case and the bezel has almost zero ...
Hodinkee
Ten years after the groundbreaking original, the Constant Escapement is back – smaller, and more refined than ever.
Revolution
Worn & Wound
Something I don’t think we discuss often enough are watch names. For people like me who are irredeemably bad at remembering obscure reference numbers, watch names are key. Some brands struggle with this, refusing to come up with interesting or imaginative names for their watches, but tagging them only by whatever slightly unique feature they possess. Other brands let the enthusiast do the work for them. I’m thinking of Seiko here. They don’t actually make a watch called the Sumo, or the Tuna, or the Arnie, but these names and many more have become a universally recognized shorthand. And then there are brands that absolutely nail their watch names. I’d like to submit that Ulysse Nardin is at the top of the heap here. Consider a few of these bangers: Freak, Lemon Shark, Classico Manara, Blast A little of everything here. We’ve got Italian, we’ve got ocean vibes, we’ve got suggestions of color, and best of all, we have short and punchy. Nobody is forgetting about the Freak (especially after watching our recent breakdown of the mechanics), and Blast? I mean, come on. What could a watch named the Blast possibly look like? The Blast watches are defined at least in part by their unique three pronged lug arrangement, which essentially makes each and every one an integrated creation. These are large, sometimes ostentatious sports watches that come on straps, frequently feature tourbillons, and have what I think you’d generally describe as a contemporary aest...
Worn & Wound
If you were tuning into our feed at the beginning of the year, we published an article where the entire Worn & Wound editorial team gave their predictions for what they thought would happen in the watch industry in 2023. Given the growing amount of watches with a GMT complication we saw released towards the latter part of the year, I started my portion of the article with a bit of an obvious take – 2023 will be the Year of the GMT. And so far, it has been. I’ve written about six different GMT’s since we’ve crossed over into the new year and I don’t expect that to trend in the other direction any time soon. In addition to my soft ball of a prediction, I did “hope” to see more options with a slight change to the GMT format this year, where a dive watch design is put first, and then the travel component second. A Diver-GMT, if you will. Well it seems that Zodiac has gotten that memo. The latest addition to the Diver-GMT space is the Zodiac LHD Pro-Diver GMT. Zodiac has taken their core professional dive watch with the Super Sea Wolf Pro-Diver, switched up the crown placement, added a fourth hand to track a second time zone, and added a helium escape valve for good measure. The Zodiac LHD Pro-Diver GMT is all business. Usually we’re used to seeing fun dial and bezel color combinations from the brand, but this new release is entirely the opposite. Aside from the splash of color from the orange accented GMT hand, water resistance rating on the dial, and the tri...
Deployant
Follow up to our gear review of the Alpa 12 STC Silver Edition last week, we continue to explore with you the photographs we took over the month or so.
Hodinkee
In which I sit down with TAG Heuer's newest ambassador Jacob Elordi and debate the origins of a watch nickname.
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