Hodinkee
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The new Seiko Prospex Alpinist Mechanical brings technical upgrades to a fan favorite
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Hodinkee
The new Seiko Prospex Alpinist Mechanical brings technical upgrades to a fan favorite
Hodinkee
Vacheron has been on a roll this year, so we decided to invite some friends over to talk about some of the Maison's best complicated watches, past and present.
SJX Watches
To celebrate founder Jacob Arabo’s 60th birthday, Jacob & Co. has upped the ante for the tourbillon with the God of Time that’s styled on the Greek myth of time, but more importantly features the world’s fastest turning tourbillon that completes one revolution every four seconds – making it 15 times quicker than a conventional one-minute tourbillon. Initial thoughts The God of Time watch is a true showpiece of modern, extravagant high horology, blending both striking visual decoration and engineering prowess. The theme of time and its associated deity is built around the record setting tourbillon, the fastest of its kind. While we’re familiar with the perpetual quest for the thinnest watch, apparently the race towards the fastest tourbillon is also a thing. Much like most Jacob & Co. watches, the God of Time is loud and a large 44.5 mm in diameter. The leitmotif of Greek mythology is present in the thick case as well, which is modelled on an Ionic pillar. The size is a consequence of the movement, which is enormous – inside are four mainsprings – due to the energy requirements of the tourbillon. The hand-crafted figure of Chronos is remarkably detailed - truly in the spirit of ancient Greek statues. The dial is interesting, as the eye is drawn to both the Chronos figure and the unusually fast tourbillon, but falls short in legibility, though that’s clearly not the point here. The God of Time is one of those watches where time-telling is less important tha...
Monochrome
Founded in 2000 by legendary designer Gérald Genta, the brand Gérald Charles, now under the leadership of CEO Federico Ziviani, has become known for its approach to technical refinement and design innovation within the distinctive Maestro case, an instantly recognisable creation of Genta. Gérald Charles continues to develop its collections based on Genta’s artistic legacy, […]
Worn & Wound
Tudor turns 100 this year. The same age as Dick Van Dyke and American Airlines. Anniversaries like this are a big deal in the watch industry – we’ve just been through a year where both Vacheron Constantin and Breguet celebrated major milestones, each with a series of special releases. That’s the playbook for a watch brand: milk the year for as long as possible with new releases that feel special. It’s a sensible strategy given that it inherently leans into heritage and prestige, both ideas that have been proven to sell watches successfully for years. This isn’t meant to be a prediction of what might be in store for Tudor this year – plenty of outlets and watch media figures have already weighed in on that topic. We don’t have any inside information, of course, so any guesses as to what Tudor might do would be just that. My hunch, though, is that we won’t see obviously anniversary inflected pieces dropped throughout the year in the same way we saw from the likes of Vacheron and Breguet in 2025. It doesn’t feel like that’s part of the Rolex DNA that Tudor shares. I expect we’ll see some very subtle 100 year mentions in Tudor marketing, a special watch or two that is not explicitly tied to the anniversary but as recognized as honoring it just the same, and perhaps something a little more celebratory around Watches & Wonders or an athletic event that Tudor is involved in (there will of course be many of those throughout the year). What I’m much more int...
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Monochrome
To celebrate the upcoming Chinese Year of the Horse, which kicks off on 17 February 2026, Arnold & Son presents a limited edition of eight Perpetual Moon timepieces. Marking its sixth consecutive year of editions dedicated to the Chinese New Year, Arnold & Son turns to its fascinating Perpetual Moon reference, presented in a 41.5mm […]
Worn & Wound
Maen’s latest is an update to their well regarded Hudson 38 dive watch, now in a MK 5 version. It’s hard to believe that the first Hudson launched all the way back in 2018. Maen is a very different brand nearly a decade later, and has radically changed not only their image but the overall quality of their watches. This is perhaps most easily understood through their popular Manhattan line of integrated bracelet sports watches, which are uncommonly well engineered for the price. Over these last few years while they’ve built out the Manhattan collection, you could probably levy the critique that they’d become a bit of a one trick pony. But it feels like with the new version of the Hudson, they are applying much of what they’ve learned with the Manhattan into a watch that probably has a bit more mass appeal and is a simpler and more straightforward proposition on its face. The Hudson 38 MK 5 is, according to the brand, the biggest update to the watch yet. The case has been completely reworked and is much more streamlined, with a thinner profile (11mm thick excluding the crystal – pretty good for a 300 meter diver) and a thinner bezel, that gives the whole package a more refined appearance and leans harder into the vintage adjacent aesthetic. This new edition also features a box domed crystal for the first time in the collection, which fundamentally changes the personality of the watch when on the wrist. Other small enhancements include the addition of a lume pip (...
SJX Watches
Omega continues to widen its already diverse Speedmaster offerings with the Speedmaster Moonwatch in “reverse panda” livery. Available in steel or 18k Moonshine gold, the latest iteration of the classic chronograph features a black dial in mirrored black lacquer with contrasting white registers, along with a ceramic insert for the tachymeter bezel. It’s something of a riff on the Moonwatch with a white lacquered dial launched in 2024. Initial thoughts This is an appealing variation of a classic. It might bring to mind past models with similar “reverse panda” dials, but the double-layer lacquered dial looks and feels quite different from earlier dials. The glossy surfaces is a pleasing upgrade that gives this a little more refinement. Like other recent Moonwatch iterations, this facelift moves the spaceflight-qualified chronograph upmarket while still retaining its technical credentials thanks to the Master Co-Axial cal. 3861 inside. Admittedly this strays a little from the “tool watch” roots of the Moonwatch, which was originally a no-frills chronograph. But the upgrades are not merely cosmetic – the dial is actually superior in terms of execution and finish, as is the bezel, case, and most importantly, movement. The cal. 3861 is clearly a big step forward compared to its predecessor. The lacquered dials don’t cost that much more than the standard equivalent with a matte black dial, which makes them a good alternative for someone who wants a Moonwatch tha...
Hodinkee
Two new Moonwatch variations bring a shiny, modern twist to a classic design.
Monochrome
The modern Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch Professional, the direct descendant of the watch that accompanied Apollo 11 crew members to the Moon, doesn’t need much introduction anymore. It is, undeniably, one of the most iconic and storied timepieces in existence. But there is more than one Moonwatch. Besides the classic steel version with a closed back […]
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Monochrome
The resurgence of French brand Yema over the past few years has been marked by a steady, successful effort to refine its heritage designs and by its commitment to in-house watchmaking. Founded in 1948 in Morteau, France, the brand built its reputation through tool watches like the Superman and Skin Diver of the 1960s, watches […]
SJX Watches
Though it was launched in 2022, the Vacheron Constantin Overseas Tourbillon Skeleton still stands out within the catalogue for being the only Overseas in titanium. Vacheron Constantin (VC) has rolled out a pair of limited editions in the lightweight metal, a logical choice for sports watches, but the Overseas tourbillon, in both skeleton and conventional format, is the only regular production model. With its lightness and colour, the metal adds to the appeal of the Overseas tourbillon (which was already pretty good in steel). The skeleton version is further enhanced by the style and finishing of the movement, which is as good as expected of VC, and better than preceding calibres. Initial thoughts The Overseas tourbillon is a large watch and it feels large, but fortunately it is slim, giving it an elegant profile – which is how the best luxury-sports watches should be. Because it is in titanium – which is an uncommon metal for high-end sports watches – the watch is also light, even with the bracelet. This gives it an appealing feel on the wrist. The Overseas tourbillon looks good on its face, and is also surprisingly legible despite being skeletonised. The open-worked movement gives the watch a technical appearance that suits the material and purpose, while the prominent tourbillon showcases its haute horlogerie qualifications; the tourbillon is one of the most elaborately decorated elements of the movement. But one of the best traits of this watch is relative – the...
Hodinkee
The show returns to Mumbai with an expanded scope that reflects India's growing watch market.
Monochrome
As a watch enthusiast and a fan of classic motorsport (superficial, but still), the Union Glashütte Noramis Chronograph Limited Edition Sachsen Classic 2025 struck me immediately for the clear connection to the 1952 Grosser Werkmeister, the from-behind-the-Iron-Curtain, one-off East German-built racing roadster that inspired it. It´s amazing how Union Glashütte ties its themed design to […]
SJX Watches
A rare Breguet pocket watch with retrograde perpetual calendar and equation of time illustrates the evolution of the house from its founder’s era to the early 20th century, blending historical motifs with modern concessions. Made in 1932, Breguet No. 2492 is one of just four known examples from a series of equation of time movements produced over nearly five decades by the legendary workshops of Victorin Piguet. In short, it’s a watch with one foot in the 19th century and one in the early 20th. The transitional nature of the watch evidently resonated with collectors, as the watch recently sold for CHF241,300 at Phillips’ Geneva auction in November, some 20% above its high estimate. Context It might be surprising, but Abraham-Louis Breguet’s unexpected death in 1823 had no immediate effect on the firm’s output. The firm produced well over a hundred watches each year, which required a staff of skilled workers, as well as A.-L. Breguet’s family, who understood what a Breguet watch was, and could build one without being managed by the man himself. However, with the old guard’s retirement, and general decline of Parisian watchmaking, things slowly changed. After the Breguet family sold the firm in the late 19th century, turning instead to the more lucrative business of aviation, the firm’s output strayed from A.-L. Breguet’s vision, abandoning Breguet’s signature design language for a medley of styles catering to specific markets. During this time, the brand...
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Two Broke Watch Snobs
The DWC Terra from an India-based microbrand that takes an unusually technical approach to design, materials, and everyday utility.
Two Broke Watch Snobs
We lived with luxury watches that fly under the radar and judged them. Find out which performers quietly deliver for watch nerds and are worth owning,
Time+Tide
This year is likely to have a lot of excitement in store, and Zach thinks these are the 5 big box watch brands to watch in 2026.The post These are the 5 must-watch big box watch brands in 2026 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
WatchAdvice
An elegant watch for both day and night for the ladies, the Seiko Presage Cocktail Time ticks a lot of boxes and punches above its weight. What We Love The elegant and classic look Great size for smaller wrists The textured dial is reminiscent of a Frozen Banana Daiquiri What We Don’t The 34mm isn’t as dainty as some may like The date window isn’t colour-matched to the dial Finding the perfect bracelet fit may prove tricky on smaller wrists Overall Rating: 8.75 / 10 Value for Money: 9/10 Wearability: 8.5/10 Design: 9/10 Build Quality: 8.5/10 The Seiko Presage Cocktail Time collection has earned a dedicated following by delivering dress-watch elegance with a uniquely spirited twist — each model draws inspiration from classic cocktails, pairing refined dial artistry with Seiko’s dependable automatic movements. With so many cocktails in the world, inspiration is endless for this lineup, and last year, Seiko released the Summer Cocktail collection, featuring a range of watches inspired by refreshing summer drinks. At the heart of this lineup lies the Seiko Presage Cocktail Time SRPL64J, a two-tone timepiece inspired by the Frozen Banana Daiquiri. With the playful vibrancy of its muse, it showcases a textured gold-toned dial and subtle diamond accents. With a blend of vintage charm and modern wearability, the Presage Cocktail Time Frozen Banana Daiquiri showcases how Presage transforms everyday timekeeping into something distinctly stylish and expressive, while be...
Worn & Wound
I think it’s fair to say that for any watch enthusiast out there that Seiko has played some role in discovering this hobby. As a brand that encompasses a variety of styles and price points, anyone can be introduced to the brand at any level of their growing interest. Because of this, the Japanese watchmaker’s 145th anniversary feels particularly special for anyone who, like me, spent hours scouring eBay for a Seiko, and feeling, in a small way, like you’re a legitimate collector now that you’ve graduated away from the generic watch you grabbed at Wal-Mart on a whim. To celebrate this milestone, Seiko has released four limited-edition gold-accented models, across the King Seiko, Prospex, Presage, and Astron collections. While one may think that these four watches feel slightly disjointed when taken together, each showcases what Seiko does best: balancing form and function in equal measure without ever falling into the trap of ostentation. Take, for example, the King Seiko. This anniversary edition, which joins the KS1969 series, is the first of the four and nods directly to Seiko’s founder himself, Kintaro Hattori. The dial pattern is inspired by one that Hattori-san had engraved on his personal watches and is rendered here in a grey gradient that darkens towards the edges. Keeping with Seiko’s innate ability to add decoration without excess, we see the King Seiko has added gold-colored hands, indexes, and text for a bit of personality against the grey. Most not...
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Monochrome
‘Watches by enthusiasts, for enthusiasts’ is not just a marketing phrase when it comes to ZLTD Watches, but a genuine conviction. It’s about bridging passion, culture and creativity to offer something unique. Singaporean watch nut Z.L. Toh, one half of the brand, started out by spending hours upon hours watching YouTube videos on all things […]
SJX Watches
The Toka from Finnish duo Roope Kortela and René Valta reflects the ongoing appeal of beautifully finished, time-only watches, combining a thoughtfully reworked historical calibre with the brand’s first champlevé enamel dial. With an emphasis on high-grade finishing and increasingly in-house components - including a proprietary free-sprung balance - the Toka is a strong sophomore effort from the startup independent. Rene Valta (foreground) and Roope Kortela Initial thoughts It’s been more than 25 years since Philippe Dufour unveiled the Simplicity, a watch that challenged prevailing wisdom about what fine watchmaking was all about. Launched at a time when brands and collectors were focused on complications, the Simplicity arguably created the niche for highly finished time-only watches and intensified collector focus on independent watchmaking in general. Though the field has become crowded over the past quarter-century, collector demand has proven durable. The Toka is a watch built in this tradition. The Omega calibre inside the Toka has been heavily reworked by Kortela Valta. The watchmakers kept most of the original architecture intact, while applying high-end finishing top to bottom. Furthermore, since the start of 2025, the watchmaking duo has expanded the list of components they’re able to make in-house, including the new free-sprung balance that differentiates the Toka from the Eka and Oma models that preceded it. The Toka features a fairly traditional...
Time+Tide
A Singapore watch shop employee has pleaded guilty after cheating 14 victims by selling the illusion of “inside access” to rare luxury watches.The post Singapore watch boutique employee’s waitlist scam cheats victims of almost $500,000 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Worn & Wound
As a new year begins, it’s always fun to think about which brands are poised to do something meaningful over the next 12 months. Obviously, every brand starts with high hopes and great intentions, but inevitably there are just a few who really become conversation drivers in the industry. It can be fun to speculate who is in a good position to do that. Lots of time, it will be a brand in the midst of a big anniversary celebration (Vacheron Constantin and Breguet in 2025 were great examples of this phenomenon). I’d like to posit that another way a brand can make a big splash is by simply having a presence at Watches & Wonders in the spring – any brand making their first appearance at the show is going to have a great deal of attention thrust upon them. This year, Audemars Piguet makes their first appearance at the show, and of course everyone will be keeping an eye out. But everyone’s always keeping an eye out for AP. I’m more interested in another brand coming to the Palexpo for the first time: Credor. Credor of course is part of the Seiko family, and can be thought of as the high end, artistic, and craft forward expression of the watchmaking family. Credor’s watches are uncompromising and beautiful, but they are wildly underseen. They are rare, of course, and tough to find outside of Japan (similar to Grand Seiko a decade ago) but they also require a bit of a learning curve in how collectors and enthusiasts understand what the brand is all about. And that’s...
Time+Tide
Cartier continues to be the big winner of the watch industry - in no small part thanks to its strong 2025 releases.The post Cartier was the unexpected saviour of the watch industry in 2025 – here’s our favourite 5 releases from the year appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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