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Fratello
The Moon has always been fertile ground for watch design. From classic moonphase displays to bold tributes, brands have tried to capture the Moon’s mystery and symbolism in different ways. CIGA Design takes a more literal approach with the Moon Walker, a watch that puts a miniature astronaut on your wrist and lets him wander […] Visit Hands-On With The CIGA Design Moon Walker to read the full article.
SJX Watches
Grand Seiko has been fairly quiet over the summer, but has just unveiled the latest addition to its Evolution 9 collection, the “Moonlit Birch” SLGW007. Effectively a new variant of the “Birch Bark” SLGW003 with a steel case and navy blue dial, the Moonlit Birch is a competent alternative to its titanium stablemate. In other words, it’s an attractive new livery for what was already a compelling watch, and retains its best characteristics including a nuanced and ergonomic case, gorgeous dial furniture, and the brand’s latest manually wound cal. 9SA4 movement. Initial thoughts The original “Birch Bark” launched last year and was one of the standout releases at Watches & Wonders due to its elegant case profile and impressive new movement. The Moonlit Birch is identical in most respects, but the case is stainless steel, rather than titanium, and the dial is finished in navy blue instead of bright white. Despite these modest differences, the Moonlit Birch is appealing in its own right. The dial texture is subtle, but it’s enough of a Grand Seiko calling card to prevent the watch from looking too generic; a common trap for time-only dress watches. The stainless steel case exhibits the brand’s Evolution 9 styling, which gives the Moonlit Birch a bold, angular presence. In answer to the demand for slimmer options from Grand Seiko, the dimensions are nearly ideal, 38.6 mm in diameter and just under 10 mm thick. The watch is powered by the cal. 9SA4, which is pa...
WatchAdvice
Hublot are an ever-present disruptor of the traditional watch industry, but do the brand’s horological standards ‘walk the talk?’ Let’s find out! What We Love: Tough, light & unobtrusive on-wrist Bold design married with demure aesthetics Surprising variation of finishes and detailing What We Don’t: No lume on a sports watch? Chronograph operation feels tougher than most Movement choice makes for a challenging value proposition Overall Rating: 8/10 Value for Money: 7/10 Wearability: 9/10 Design: 8/10 Build Quality: 8/10 When I was first introduced to the luxury watch industry and all the wonders it holds, it was an overwhelming experience. This isn’t a ground-breaking revelation – I’m sure many of you shared the same circumstances at one point – but I found myself quickly scrambling for some watch advice, no pun intended. However, since I was the only watch nerd (that I knew of) in my demographic, I naturally navigated online. There, I was told a great many facts and rules. Some of them were good, like “don’t change the date between 9 and 3 o’clock,” or “take the watch off before you adjust the time.” Other bits and pieces, however, were just opinions disguised as fact. “Never buy [this brand],” “only buy [that brand] …” All the typical drivel we roll our eyes at now; I integrated into my own beliefs as a then watch noob. Of course, this also led me to one of the watch community’s biggest discourses: Hublot. From what I saw, th...
Fratello
It should come as no surprise to those who regularly read my work that I’m a fan of Tudor watches. In fact, to mark a significant personal milestone, I bought a Tudor Black Bay 58 for my 30th birthday. Today, though, we’re looking at a very different watch, the Tudor Heritage Ranger. This is not […] Visit Is The Tudor Heritage Ranger A Future Neo-Vintage Classic? to read the full article.
Time+Tide
From watches made from mountain rocks to automata that rock our world, there were more than a few big releases this week.The post New releases from Tissot, Swatch, Vacheron Constantin and more appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Seven years after writing his first editorial for SJX Watches, Brandon Moore joins the SJX team as full-time Editorial Director. Like many of us, Brandon got his start in the watch community through the PuristS forum (now WatchProSite), in 2008. A decade later he began writing about topics like the community’s obsession with in-house movements and how finishing has captured the industry in the age of social media. In 2023 he became a regular contributor while still working full time in software sales, until now. Brandon’s personal interests lie in contemporary high-end watchmaking, with a particular affinity for independent brands, a long-time focus of SJX Watches. He also enjoys pulling back the curtain on watch production with behind-the-scenes visits to manufactures big and small. In addition, Brandon co-hosts the SJX Podcast, where he and SJX cover new releases and industry news in a more candid format.
Worn & Wound
When it comes right down to it, there’s no more important watch brand to the enthusiast community than Seiko. Sure, Rolex is the biggest brand in the world, and the most recognizable brand name (for any product) ever. But no other brand matches Seiko for variety, accessibility, quality, and pure fun. There’s truly something for everybody under the Seiko tent, and it’s a brand that we find ourselves unable to quit, even when they frustrate us for any number of reasons. But this isn’t about those frustrations. This post is about the Seikos we love the most. We asked our contributors to pick their favorite Seiko of all time, and we think as you read through these selections you’ll find that the thing that ties them all together is a deep personal connection to a watch. That’s what’s at the heart of this hobby, and what makes Seiko so special. We want to know the Seikos that you love the most, so let us know in the comments what you’d pick. Elodie Townsend – Seiko Flightmaster SNA411P1 I can’t hear the name Seiko without getting misty-eyed about the watch that introduced me to the wider world of horology fandom: the Seiko Flightmaster SNA411P1. It’s big, brazenly busy, and admittedly over-packed with features that I would never use (calculus, anyone), but that pop of yellow and the charm of its over-complications make it a joy to wear, use, and show off. My dad got me my “Flighty” as a gift for my 21st birthday years back; when the price hadn...
Worn & Wound
Space, fire, time. These things are elemental, conduits to deep discussions about our place in the universe, and the nature of life itself. What does it all mean? It’s the stuff of 3:00 AM dorm room deep dives, the kinds of conversations that happen after watching 2001 for the first time. Every so often, a piece of art, or an object (or even a watch!) scratches at these ideas. That’s what I started to ponder, anyway, when I first read about the new Fortis Stratoliner S-41 Reentry Edition, a striking new version of their spacefaring chronograph with a unique (literally) dial with one of the more interesting concepts behind it that I’ve seen this year. The highlight here, as you can likely derive from the images, is the dial that has been heat treated by hand. The inspiration comes from spacecraft reentering the earth’s atmosphere. This happens at an incredibly high rate of speed – roughly 15,000 miles per hour. At that velocity, the friction caused by the spacecraft as it comes in contact with the atmosphere essentially turns said spacecraft into a small, fast moving, fireball. Have you seen Apollo 13? Then you know basically how this works. A heat shield designed to control that burn keeps astronauts on board safe, and the critical structure of the spacecraft intact. According to Fortis, every Reentry Edition dial is heat treated by hand and completely unique, thanks to the unpredictable nature of the impact of fire on the titanium surface. The heat produces ...
Fratello
Another Friday, another list! We return to a series of budget-related lists after focusing on Geneva Watch Days for two weeks and finding the best collabs last week. Today, we’re starting another three-list series focusing on budget-friendly watches. Not too long ago, we compiled a trio of lists covering the best available picks under €500. […] Visit Fratello’s Top 5 Watches Under €1,000 From Big Brands to read the full article.
Monochrome
If you’re looking for a classic watch with elegance, solid watchmaking credentials, a slight retro touch and a price that doesn’t break the bank, the Seiko Presage collection never falls short of offerings. While mostly known for its artistic dials, bringing Japanese crafts into the spotlight, the collection has grown dramatically to become the dressy/elegant […]
Monochrome
A legend in his own lifetime and the name behind countless watch icons designed for other brands, Gérald Genta (1931-2011) also produced masterpieces for his eponymous brand founded in 1969, including the Grande Sonnerie, considered the most sophisticated and complex chiming watch in the world. The current custodian of the Gérald Genta brand is Louis […]
Monochrome
A year after the relaunch of one of the oldest names in the industry, Favre Leuba is set to introduce its latest collection. During Geneva Watch Days, we sat down with Patrik Hoffmann, CEO for the brand, to learn all the ins and outs concerning the creation of the new Chief Skeleton. Based on the […]
![Fratello Talks: Gerald Charles CEO Federico Ziviani [Live In Geneva]](https://www.fratellowatches.com/cdn-cgi/image/anim=false/wp-content/uploads/2025/09/Fratello-Talks-Gerald-Charles-Federico-Ziviani-.jpg)
Fratello
Welcome back to another episode of Fratello Talks. This week, we come to you live from Geneva for a special conversation with Federico Ziviani, CEO of Gerald Charles. For those unfamiliar, Gerald Charles is the independent watch brand founded in 2000 by the late, great Gérald Genta. Today, under the stewardship of Ziviani, the brand […] Visit Fratello Talks: Gerald Charles CEO Federico Ziviani [Live In Geneva] to read the full article.
Worn & Wound
Every so often, you come across new releases that feel less like a stranger and more like someone you’ve met before, but can’t quite place. This feeling cropped up more and more as the vintage revival trend took a firm grasp on the watch industry, as brands rushed to bring back “iconic” references from the obscure archives. However, from the moment the Caravelle Sea Hunter hit my hand and that feeling crept in, it probably wasn’t for the reason you might assume. To be fair and to frame this review properly for all of you, I have only spent two brief periods of romance with Sea Hunter up until now. That has been enough time for me to claim that the Caravelle by Bulova is here to fill a void left by one of, if not the, most legendary dive watches ever made for the modern audience, the Seiko SKX. However, we can circle back to that in a moment. Caravelle was launched as the more affordable younger sibling operating underneath the Bulova brand in 1962 as a direct competitor to Timex. Offering jeweled movements at a price point that others could not, Caravelle eventually grew to become the largest-selling jeweled-movement watch manufacturer in the United States by 1968. In that swath of mass-produced affordable wrist watches sat a line of diving tool watches bearing the name Sea Hunter, with the soon-to-be iconic 666 depth rating, which brought about the ‘Devil Diver’ nickname. It was one of those Devil Divers, released in 1969, that Caravelle chose to do someth...
SJX Watches
Best known for its signature time display comprised of three off-center discs, Trilobe has introduced its first sport watch, the Trente-Deux. It’s yet another sports watch with an integrated bracelet, but the Trente-Deux is more notable for being the debut platform for the new X-Nihilo caliber, which for movement geeks will overshadow the launch of the new collection itself. The X-Nihilo is a relatively simple automatic caliber, and many of its components are produced in Trilobe’s own newly established CNC workshop near the French capital. It remains to be seen whether this domestic manufacturing initiative will prove viable long-term; the recent past is full of false starts aimed at rebuilding the French watchmaking industry. Initial thoughts I admit a certain fascination for watches without hands, that indicate the time with jumping windows, wandering displays, and revolving discs. The Trente-Deux, like the brand’s other watches, is an example of the latter. The hour is read at the top of the dial, using the logo as a pointer. The minutes slip by through a window in the dial, and the seconds disc rotates around a central hub embellished with stamped Clous de Paris. The asymmetrical layout is visually compelling and results in a pleasing amount of negative space that somehow doesn’t feel empty. This might be due to the sunray pattern, which emanates outward from the center of the seconds disc. In terms of colour, grey and navy blue are safe, pragmatic choices tha...
Worn & Wound
If you ever have the chance to try on a Greubel Forsey - any Greubel Forsey - take it. For one thing, these are rare watches, and it’s a cool thing to be able to say you’ve done. For another, Greubel makes objectively awesome watches, and any watch enthusiast should try out as many awesome watches as they can. But more important than that, Greubel Forsey is one of those brands whose quality is hard to understand through the internet. Greubel Forsey is a brand that defies expectation. Since the launch of Greubel’s first watch in 2004, Greubel Forsey has pushed the limits of both technical and aesthetic watchmaking, and they’ve done it all without sacrificing their unique character, or seemingly ever needing to compromise. In fact, the Greubel Forsey of today is - at least outwardly - a brand with a clearer identity than most, that also happens to do what it does really, really well. A few weeks ago, in Geneva, our two Zachs had the chance to sit down with the brand to see the proof of that in person, and to catch up on some of Greubel’s latest releases, including the brand new QP Balancier and the new Nano Foudroyante - a direct successor to last year’s superb Nano Foudroyante EWT - each of which have been announced in highly limited editions of 22 watches, and each of which are great reminders of just how far Greubel has come in the last 25 years. It also doesn’t hurt that both the QP Balancier and the Nano Foudroyante easily rank among the most...
Fratello
If you’re looking for an affordable, outspoken sports watch that can handle rough situations, the Alpina Seastrong Diver Extreme might be for you. However, the 39mm watch that debuted last year might be too boldly colored for your taste. Alpina fixed that by releasing two new versions - one with a black dial and another […] Visit Introducing: The Alpina Seastrong Diver Extreme With A Retro Touch-Up to read the full article.
Monochrome
While Grand Seiko is now well-established all around the world as the higher-end brand of the Seiko Watch Corporation, Credor remains far more niche and has just begun its global expansion, primarily with the Locomotive collection, based on a vintage watch once designed by Gérald Genta. Credor, another high-end brandwithin the group, employs a more classic approach with watches […]
Fratello
Just before Geneva Watch Days kicked off, I joined the team from WRK Timepieces for a rather special moment. Caroline and Nasko, the husband-and-wife duo behind WRK, were about to receive the very first fully functioning prototype of their latest creation, the ACF-02, and they invited me along with them. The delivery took place at […] Visit From Concept To Reality: My First Hands-On With The WRK Timepieces ACF-02 to read the full article.
Fratello
Fortis is well known in the world of horology for creating amazing tool watches. It is also one of the few brands with a track record of successfully sending watches into space. The Fortis Stratoliner S-41 collection is a modern-day space traveler’s watch that has achieved just that. Now, the Swiss brand is extending the […] Visit Fortis Introduces The Stealthy Stratoliner S-41 Gravity Black And The Wild Reentry Edition to read the full article.
Fratello
Good morning, and welcome to another Sunday Morning Showdown! Last week’s installment was all about sleek integrated-bracelet sports watches. This week, we’ll focus on two substantial divers that came out recently. For Geneva Watch Days, Doxa relaunched its Sub 750T with the same 45mm diameter but a slimmer 11.95mm profile. We thought putting that colorful […] Visit Sunday Morning Showdown: Doxa Sub 750T Vs. Oris Aquis New York Harbor Limited Edition II to read the full article.
Fratello
Since August last year, Schwarz Etienne has had a new CEO. His name is Florian Brossard. I don’t know if this name means anything to you, but it means a lot to me. I have been following his way through the watch industry for a while. The first time I met Florian Brossard was at […] Visit News From Schwarz Etienne: A Personal View On The 1902 Collection to read the full article.
Time+Tide
Building upon the Milgraph from 2024, Micromilspec launches its new Pilot series with the Pilot Worldtimer for Geneva Watch Days 2025.The post Micromilspec aims skyward with its new Pilot Worldtimer appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Monochrome
When Hermès launched its sporty cushion-shaped H08 men’s watch four years ago, it was welcomed with open arms – and not just among Hermès devotees. Characteristic of the brand’s flair for enigmatic shapes, the H08 is a playful juxtaposition of shapes highlighted with different finishes and textures. Continuing the success story, the H08 collection expands […]
Worn & Wound
The inaugural watch by haute Swiss independent Berneron, the Mirage 38, had a markedly poetic design. With a free-flowing case shape, twisting hands, and a distorted dial, it would be easy to consider it as a design of pure aesthetics. Looks deceived, however, as the form was driven by a movement concept that rejected the standard circular shape, allowing for a large barrel, and thus a 72-hour power reserve in a small and thin body. Nevertheless, the outcome was undoubtedly one of whimsy, where evocative design outweighed pure function, if there was a clever horological backing. Often, brands, especially young ones, stick to a theme to carve a niche for themselves within a crowded industry, but that’s not the approach of Berneron. For the brand’s second model, announced just before Geneva Watch Days, whimsy is nowhere in sight. Instead, the brand made a sharp turn into practicality and legibility, if through a decidedly haute lens. Titled the Quantième Annuel, it has a design that verges on the traditional, especially compared to the Mirage. The first model within their “quantième” collection, which will house their complicated pieces, the QA is an annual calendar jump hour with a design driven by logic in terms of how it is read, the movement architecture, and how it is set. The flow of the dial is meant to be top to bottom, left to right. Following that order, time is read hour, minute, second, and the day, date, and month. The hour is digital, as it is a jump ...
Worn & Wound
One of the real highlights of being involved in our Windup events year to year is getting to know brand owners and founders, and periodically getting a little peek at what’s to come. More and more often, brands come to our events not just with watches in their current catalog, but with early samples of watches they’re planning for the future to show prospective customers, members of the media, and the Worn & Wound team. I won’t lie: it’s a nice perk of being on the inside. A few months ago during the Chicago show, the team at echo/neutra pulled some really exciting stuff out of a bag that was not quite ready for prying eyes. The new Averau42 collection, which at launch consists of a pair of watches combining titanium and ceramic construction, is an exciting next step for a brand that we’ve been interested in for some time. The heart of these watches is what echo/neutra calls the TiFrame construction. This is an idea we’ve seen a handful of times from other brands, usually bigger brands, in the recent past. These watches are made with an internal titanium case, or frame, that protects the movement and offers tensile strength that ceramic and other alternative materials lack. The outer layer is black ceramic, which provides a virtually scratch proof surface and a moody aesthetic vibe for these watches that fits in nicely with the design codes the brand has established over the past several years. This type of construction, in addition to making the most of the ...
SJX Watches
While the industry resumes normal operations following Geneva Watch Days, we’re taking a quick detour to the Italy to see what Ondřej Berkus has been up to. The Deadbeat Seconds 2.0 is the latest delivery from the self-taught watchmaker and is a good example of how far his watchmaking has come in recent years. As the name suggests, the DS 2.0 is the second watch Mr Berkus has made in this style, but like all of his creations, the two are remarkably different in execution. Initial thoughts There’s a reassuring degree of predictability to the luxury watch industry. It’s a conservative industry built on tradition, which reinforces unspoken norms about what counts as a high end watch. The result is conformity; most watchmakers march to a similar beat and stick to their respective niches. This uniformity helps customers understand the products, but as a consequence many of the products can be criticised as homogenous and impersonal. In contrast, the watchmaking of Ondřej Berkus is refreshingly human. He has no formal website, and conducts business via Instagram. He does not release collections, and no two pieces are entirely alike; each watch is created in dialogue with a collector. A self-taught watchmaker, Mr Berkus manages to pull this off thanks in part to his distinctive approach to finishing. While most contemporary independent watchmakers focus on simple movements executed to a high level, Mr Berkus flips the script, and strives to deliver watches that are unique...
SJX Watches
Breguet’s quarter-millennial celebrations continue with the Marine Hora Mundi 5555, a reprise of the unique piece created for Only Watch two years ago. The world time wristwatch now returns with a phosphorescent enamel dial – that is notably grand feu on sapphire crystal – and a case in “Breguet Gold”. While the attire is new, the Hora Mundi 5555 still retains the clever movement that has a world time function that is instantaneously switchable between two pre-set time zones and unique amongst travel watches. Initial Thoughts Breguet facelifted the aging Marine line starting about eight years ago, but the integrated bracelet design language still feels fresh, though arguably remains unproven compared to long-established peers in the luxury sports watch segment. The Marine Équation Marchante 5887, which introduced the new look, leaned heavily on its excellent movement – it’s perhaps the best equation of time complication yet made – as a crutch supporting an experimental design. More practical and simpler models followed; the Marine Hora Mundi is certainly practical but not simple. The Marine Hora Mundi 5555 is likewise powered by an impressive movement, and one incorporating a complication apt for a sports watch, but the watch also has a metiers d’art distinction with its enamel dial. That is unusual for a sports watch, but the Marine is an unusual sports watch. The enamelling itself is even more unusual, done on sapphire using phosphorescent pigments, ...
Teddy Baldassarre
Even though it seems like watches have been around forever - at least judging by the ongoing heat of the pre-owned and vintage market and its influence on modern design - they are actually a relatively modern addition to human civilization, and have only been widely worn on the wrist for a little over 100 years. The history of the watch, however, has roots that run far deeper, to the very beginnings of timekeeping by humans. Here we briefly explore the watch’s origins and its development into a modern-day accessory and tool and attempt to answer the question, "When were wristwatches invented?" (Very) Early Timekeeping Modern timekeeping devices can all be traced back to the sundials and water clocks developed by the ancient Egyptians and used by the early Babylonians, Greeks, and Chinese. The influence of these ancient methods and devices resonates deeply to this day when it comes to contemporary timekeeping. In fact, it’s even made for some questionable stories that have nonetheless been shared as a type of folk history. For example, it is said that the clockwise movement of a clock is due to early timekeepers mimicking the movement of sundials, which, obviously, move from east to west. Of course, this theory doesn’t take into account that it would only hold true in the Northern Hemisphere, as someone in the southern hemisphere would see the sundial move counterclockwise. But back to what we know to be true... These relatively primitive devices eventually gave r...
Fratello
Panerai was first introduced to the public on September 10th, 1993. Until that time, the brand only made watches for military personnel. This is easy to forget, as Panerai quickly became a public fixture in the watch universe. This year, on the anniversary of its 1993 debut, Panerai unveils The Depths of Time at its […] Visit Hands-On With The Panerai Luminor Marina Militare PAM05218 to read the full article.
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