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Results for Grail Watch

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Hands On: Bulgari Octo Finissimo Ultra Tourbillon SJX Watches
Bulgari Octo Finissimo Ultra Tourbillon Apr 25, 2025

Hands On: Bulgari Octo Finissimo Ultra Tourbillon

Bulgari made its debut at Watches & Wonders this year, having previously exhibited outside the fair. It was a fitting occasion to launch the Octo Finissimo Ultra Tourbillon, the thinnest tourbillon watch ever at just 1.85 mm thick. Housed in the brand’s signature matte grey titanium case and limited to just 20 pieces, the Ultra Tourbillon is paired with an equally thin and silky titanium bracelet. Bulgari is deeply invested in its leadership in ultra-thin watchmaking, and the Ultra Tourbillon shows the brand is willing to do whatever it takes to own as many records in this field as possible. Initial thoughts Despite its record-breaking slimness, there was surprisingly little buzz about the Ultra at Watches & Wonders. This may be due to record fatigue, since the previous record was set just last year by the Piaget AUC Tourbillon. It could also be due to the diminishing returns of these types of records, which are now being broken by almost imperceptible margins. On its exterior, the Ultra Tourbillon is quite similar the 1.7 mm-thick Octo Finissimo Ultra introduced last year. It features a 40 mm case made from a combination of titanium and tungsten carbide, and is impressively open-worked, revealing just about every wheel and pinion on the dial side of the watch. But this watch is all about the headline figure of its 1.85 mm thickness, which endows the Ultra Tourbillon with a delicate, almost weightless feel. The case in profile. Image – Bulgari Like all ultra-thin recor...

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Graduation Watches: The Gift Guide For Every Budget Teddy Baldassarre
Apr 24, 2025

Graduation Watches: The Gift Guide For Every Budget

Graduation season is just around the corner, and, given the title of this article, I’m pretty sure you can already tell where I’m going with this. Whether you yourself are about to don a cap and gown, or you know a graduate who’s preparing to celebrate the end of one chapter and the beginning of a new one, a watch makes a great gift to mark a transition from one phase of life into the next. It’s a tale as old as time (or, at least, as old as watches).  So, to give you some graduation gifting inspiration - or, in case you need to provide some loved ones with a little guidance on the graduation gift you might want - I’ve rounded up various watches at (I hope) every price point with grads in mind. Some key elements I’ve looked for in making this list are practicality, versatility, and styles of watches that could make a one-and-done collection in themselves for those who are new to watches, or those beginning a collection. And if you aren’t celebrating graduation season yourself, but are in need of a nudge to celebrate some other key moment in your life - well, you’re welcome here, too.  Under $500 Casio Vintage ABL100WE-1AVT Price: $79.95 Case: 37.9mm. Water Resistant: Yes. Movement: Quartz battery Going by ascending order on price feels like the most obvious way to order this guide, so I will begin with a watch not just under $500, but under $100. For those who are possibly just dipping their toes into the idea of wearing a watch regularly (this is t...

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First Look – The Breguet Classique Souscription 2025, Celebrating the Brand’s 250th Anniversary Monochrome
Breguet Classique Souscription 2025 Celebrating Apr 24, 2025

First Look – The Breguet Classique Souscription 2025, Celebrating the Brand’s 250th Anniversary

This year, one of the most important names in the watch industry is celebrating its 250th anniversary. I’m of course talking about Breguet, the brand created by the all-important Abraham-Louis Breguet in 1775, Quai de l’Horloge in Paris (even though he was Swiss, A.L. Breguet worked most of his life in Paris except during the […]

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The Breguet Classique Souscription 2025 single-handedly kicks off the brand’s 250th anniversary celebrations Time+Tide
Breguet Classique Souscription 2025 single-handedly Apr 24, 2025

The Breguet Classique Souscription 2025 single-handedly kicks off the brand’s 250th anniversary celebrations

The new Breguet Classique Souscription 2025 celebrates the brand's 250th anniversary with a watch inspired by its 1790s pocket watches.The post The Breguet Classique Souscription 2025 single-handedly kicks off the brand’s 250th anniversary celebrations appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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Introducing: The Breguet Classique Souscription 2025 - Initiating The Brand’s 250th-Anniversary Celebrations Fratello
Breguet Classique Souscription 2025 - Apr 24, 2025

Introducing: The Breguet Classique Souscription 2025 - Initiating The Brand’s 250th-Anniversary Celebrations

Abraham-Louis Breguet was probably the first watchmaker to launch a watch with the help of a Kickstarter campaign. Okay, well, not exactly, but in 1797, he made his 61mm Souscription pocket watch available for order with a 25% down payment. That way, the relatively simple watch with only one hand and a white enamel dial […] Visit Introducing: The Breguet Classique Souscription 2025 - Initiating The Brand’s 250th-Anniversary Celebrations to read the full article.

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Introducing: The Panerai Submersible Chrono Marina Militare Experience Edition Fratello
Panerai Submersible Chrono Marina Militare Apr 24, 2025

Introducing: The Panerai Submersible Chrono Marina Militare Experience Edition

Panerai has unveiled the new Submersible Chrono Marina Militare Experience Edition PAM01699. This tool-ish 47mm titanium watch is a limited edition of 35 pieces worldwide. However, as its name and €50K+ price suggest, the whole package includes much more than a heavy-duty timekeeper… The relationship between Panerai and the Italian Navy is a key part […] Visit Introducing: The Panerai Submersible Chrono Marina Militare Experience Edition to read the full article.

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[VIDEO] Christopher Ward Changes the Game, Again – C12 Loco Review with Video Worn & Wound
Christopher Ward Changes Apr 23, 2025

[VIDEO] Christopher Ward Changes the Game, Again – C12 Loco Review with Video

Is it too dramatic to say that just about three years ago, in November of 2022, Christopher Ward changed the watch industry as we knew it? Perhaps. But what fun is a watch review without some hyperbole? And frankly, it’s not a far-off statement either. I’m talking, of course, about the launch of the C1 Bel Canto. Not only did that watch set Christopher Ward on a new trajectory as a brand, but it also proved what smaller independent brands were capable of. Since then, we’ve seen a surge of ingenuity in the industry. But I’m burying the lede. It’s 2025, and Christopher Ward has done it again with the launch of the C12 Loco: a full-fledged vision of independent watchmaking that, perhaps most impressively, maintains the brand’s value-focused ethos. But to fully appreciate the C12 Loco, we must rewind to 2014. That’s when Christopher Ward did the unthinkable and received little to no attention for it: they launched an in-house movement called the SH21. Back then, “in-house” was a term that got thrown around a lot. It was always a big deal when a brand announced an “in-house” movement. But, it was the territory of the very large or the very high-end, and the idea that smaller, more accessible independents could produce an in-house caliber was almost absurd. When a brand announced an in-house movement, everyone took notice, and sometimes brands were called out for using the term too loosely (including other British brands…). So, when the SH21 debuted, it w...

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Christopher Ward Introduces the C12 Loco SJX Watches
Christopher Ward Introduces Apr 23, 2025

Christopher Ward Introduces the C12 Loco

Out to replicate the success of the Bel Canto and prove it’s not a one-hit wonder, Christopher Ward has introduced the C12 Loco. While the integrated bracelet look is now commonplace, the Loco breaks new ground for the British brand in terms of its differentiated movement architecture, and features an inverted free-sprung balance on the dial side of the watch. Spiritual successor to the Bel Canto, the C12 Loco paints a picture of Christopher Ward’s ambitions as a brand. Like Louis Erard, which is on a similar mission to make traditional craft and independent design more accessible, Christopher Ward is looking to redefine what collectors should expect from entry level watchmaking. Initial thoughts The Twelve is Christopher Ward’s foray into integrated bracelet sport watches. Its launch in 2023 was not without some controversy, being seen as too similar to the Czapek Antarctique; it turned out both designs came from the mind of designer Adrian Buchmann. Despite the rocky start, the collection has been a commercial success and the brand has done a commendable job developing the line-up and keeping prices in check. The Loco is the most ambitious Twelve to-date, with an off-center time display that opens up space at six o’clock for an exposed balance wheel and escapement. Like the Bel Canto, the watch does not feature the Christopher Ward brand name on the dial. In an era when attention is the name of the game, it’s nice to see a small brand with the confidence to let...

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Longines Legend Diver Guide Teddy Baldassarre
Longines Apr 23, 2025

Longines Legend Diver Guide

The Longines Legend Diver, introduced in the mid-aughts but tracing its origins all the way back to the embryonic era of modern dive watches in the 1950s and ‘60s, is the epitome of retro-vintage cool for many lovers of sport watches. Here’s how the watch, and its hallmark and still-rare Super Compressor case design, found a successful niche, and an avid audience, in the 21st century.  1959: The Inspiration As with many now-common watchmaking innovations, Longines was one of the pioneers in waterproofing timepieces, making its first water-resistant case as early as 1937, and introducing its first wristwatches purpose-built for recreational diving in the late 1950s. Unlike many of its predecessors and contemporaries in that fertile era of iconic dive watches - like the Blancpain Fifty Fathoms, Rolex Submariner (both 1953), and Omega Seamaster Professional (1957) - Longines’s Super Compressor Diver Ref. 7042, launched in 1959 and the most direct ancestor of today’s Legend Diver - did not employ the now-ubiquitous, external, unidirectional rotating bezel for its dive scale. Instead, the watch was designed in the so-called compressor style, also used by brands like Jaeger-LeCoultre, Enicar, and Universal Genève, whose case design included an inner dive-scale ring, positioned on the dial’s flange and mounted under the crystal, which rotated in both directions, operated by an additional crown at 4 o’clock. The “Super” in Longines’ “Super Compressor”...

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Furlan Marri Celebrates their Fourth Anniversary with the New “Red Hunter” Worn & Wound
Furlan Marri Celebrates their Fourth Anniversary Apr 23, 2025

Furlan Marri Celebrates their Fourth Anniversary with the New “Red Hunter”

It feels like Furlan Marri has been around longer than four years, doesn’t it? Their trajectory from “Kickstarter brand” to one of the most consistently interesting small indies/micros/whatever has been fascinating to watch simply because it doesn’t correlate at all with the typical growth of a watch brand, regardless of the size. They are doing interesting things that are purely design driven (like the Disco Volante I reviewed last year) but are also pushing the envelope when it comes to mechanical watchmaking. They have fully transcended, in my opinion, all of the baggage that comes with launching on Kickstarter, to the point that we don’t even think about how it all started unless we’re intentionally meant to look back, which is part and parcel with an anniversary watch release like this one.  To celebrate four years, Furlan Marri has unveiled the Red Hunter, a watch meant to pay tribute to classic hunter-case pocket watches and officer-style wrist watches. This is the brand’s first watch to measure 36mm in diameter, which I guess is a little surprising considering the vintage inspiration that runs through all of Furlan Marri’s designs, and the conventional wisdom that 36mm is perhaps the most classic, universal watch diameter. In any event, the size makes a lot of sense here when taken together with all the other little vintage inspired details. Let’s start with the dial, which is a new design from Furlan Marri. It’s a black lacquer with a subtle s...

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Hands-On With The Christiaan Van Der Klaauw Grand Planetarium Eccentric Meteorite Fratello
Christiaan van der Klaauw Grand Planetarium Eccentric Met... Apr 23, 2025

Hands-On With The Christiaan Van Der Klaauw Grand Planetarium Eccentric Meteorite

Last year, for the brand’s 50th anniversary, Christiaan van der Klaauw introduced the Grand Planetarium Eccentric. It was a 44mm watch in platinum or rose gold with eight hand-painted celestial bodies circling its aventurine dial. That already sounds quite impressive, right? Well, when I met Pim Koeslag, CEO of the Dutch brand, at Watches and […] Visit Hands-On With The Christiaan Van Der Klaauw Grand Planetarium Eccentric Meteorite to read the full article.

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Tudor Pelagos Ultra Review Teddy Baldassarre
Tudor Apr 22, 2025

Tudor Pelagos Ultra Review

The Tudor Pelagos has consistently been something of "the other watch" in the broader Tudor lineup, sitting in the shadow of the Black Bay. It is also decidedly more modern in its design and is intended as Tudor’s more contemporary, dive-ready tool. What started as a 42mm mode then morphed into a watch in varying sizes, lug construction, and case construction. In 2025 it now sits as a somewhat diversified collection of its own. Is it a Black Bay in terms of scale and breadth of the collection? No, it is not, but it is also no longer a one trick pony. That concept is no more evident than in the Watches & Wonders 2025 release of the Pelagos Ultra, a 43mm riff on the Pelagos theme that aligns it more closely with the Rolex Deepsea than the Sea-Dweller or Submariner. This is a big, brash, and burly dive watch, intended for a very specific segment of the watch world. If you thought the Pelagos FXD was specific, the Ultra turns the dial up to 11. Case So as I mentioned above, the case is made from the traditional (for a Pelagos) titanium material, a combination of grade 2 and grade 5 to be specific. The side of the case opposite the crown features a discreet helium escape valve. The case may seem big from the specs alone, but the 52mm lug-to-lug makes it such that it isn’t a behemoth. The case thickness is a proportional 14.5mm and due to the overall size, you will be looking at a lug width of 22mm. The bezel insert is made of a matte titanium housed in a titanium bezel. The...

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ochs und junior’s two timezones + date Gets the “Ochs Line” Treatment Worn & Wound
Apr 22, 2025

ochs und junior’s two timezones + date Gets the “Ochs Line” Treatment

It’s easy in this job to get into the habit of casually skimming press releases as they hit our inbox. We get a lot of new release announcements, and most of them, for one reason or another, never make it to the website. There’s a certain formula to these press releases that makes it easy for us to identify the key features and attributes of a new watch with a cursory glance, but there are certain releases where it really pays to slow down and drink it all in. For example, any new release from ochs und junior really demands your full attention simply because their creations are so deeply unusual and require a rethinking of watches and timetelling itself actually work. Such is the case with the new two time zones + date, the latest watch to be featured in the brand’s “ochs line” of series produced watches (as opposed to the fully customized watches that put them on the map).  Besides a commitment to stylizing their brand with entirely lower case letters, the thing that has always set ochs und junior apart is their commitment to creating complications that are as mechanically simple as possible. You see a lot of high end watch brands proudly announce that their ultra-complicated grand complications, for example, have untold hundreds of components and jewels under the hood. These stats are worn like a badge of honor. I can imagine Ludwig Oechslin and his team looking at these announcements and shrugging their shoulders – they simply have a completely different ph...

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Inside Greubel Forsey: CEO Michel Nydegger On Strategy, Craftsmanship, And The Future Fratello
Greubel Forsey CEO Michel Nydegger Apr 22, 2025

Inside Greubel Forsey: CEO Michel Nydegger On Strategy, Craftsmanship, And The Future

Visiting Greubel Forsey is unlike stepping into most watch ateliers. Tucked away in La Chaux-de-Fonds, the brand has always carried an aura of mystery, spoken about with reverence among collectors but less visible in mainstream luxury circles. That is partly by design. When I sat down with Michel Nyddegger, the brand’s recently appointed CEO, it […] Visit Inside Greubel Forsey: CEO Michel Nydegger On Strategy, Craftsmanship, And The Future to read the full article.

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Hands On: Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle Tourbillon Perpetual Calendar 270th Anniversary SJX Watches
Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle Tourbillon Perpetual C... Apr 22, 2025

Hands On: Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle Tourbillon Perpetual Calendar 270th Anniversary

Vacheron Constantin is marking its 270th anniversary with the record-setting, most-complicated-watch-ever, the Solaria Ultra Grand Complication. Fortunately, the celebratory line-up also includes the more affordable: one step down in the collection is the Traditionnelle Tourbillon Perpetual Calendar 270th Anniversary. Less complicated than the Solaria, but still one of the top-of-the-line anniversary offerings, the Tourbillon Perpetual Calendar is an entirely new model, rather than an existing model dressed in anniversary livery. The Tourbillon Perpetual Calendar combines the self-winding cal. 2160 with a perpetual calendar mechanism, while both the dial and movement get the 270th anniversary-exclusive treatment. Initial thoughts The Tourbillon Perpetual Calendar is a fairly large but thin watch, with a clean, traditional design with tasteful elaboration. Formal on its face, the watch gets more interesting up close with the anniversary decor on the dial and movement. Overall, the look and feel is elegant; essentially the type of watch that Vacheron Constantin (VC) does well. The execution is high quality and typical of an established, industrial-artisanal brand. The tourbillon bridge and cage stand out as being especially finely finished. Notably, the guilloche on the dial is done the traditional way, on a hand-operated straight-line engine – which is necessary for a watch of this price – while on the entry-level anniversary models the same pattern is achieved via stam...

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The Nine Most Affordable Omega Watches For Men In 2026 Teddy Baldassarre
Omega Apr 21, 2025

The Nine Most Affordable Omega Watches For Men In 2026

The continuing white-hot popularity of the “MoonSwatch” models - a collaborative project between mass-market Swatch and luxury-market Omega - has likely sparked the interest of a whole new generation of young watch enthusiasts, not only in the iconic Speedmaster Professional but in the Omega brand overall. If you’re among the cohort that just might be ready to own an honest-to-goodness Omega rather than a Swatch-made replica (albeit a really cool one), the good news is that getting in on the ground floor of one of the world’s most collectible watch brands is not as high as one might expect - at least considering the accolades it receives from knowledgeable and well-heeled watch connoisseurs. In this latest installment of our “Price of Admission” series, we seek out the most attainable, entry-level pieces in every Omega collection.  CONSTELLATION: The contemporary Constellation family traces its design lineage to two distinctly different vintage ancestors - the cult-classic original model from the 1950s (which introduced the iconoclastic “pie pan” dial) and the influential revamp in the 1980s (which contributed the engraved, scalloped bezel and parallel “claws” on the case sides). The Constellation, which falls somewhere between everyday dress watch and retro conversation piece, is available in several sizes and with several different movements: a 36mm steel model on a bracelet, with the quartz Caliber 4564, can be yours for just $3,000. The 41m...

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Hands On: Patek Philippe Calatrava Ref. 6196P-001 SJX Watches
Vacheron Constantin Apr 21, 2025

Hands On: Patek Philippe Calatrava Ref. 6196P-001

Patek Philippe came to Watches & Wonders 2025 with a deep bench of strong new releases, but for fans of the classic Calatrava, the standout was without question the Calatrava Ref. 6196P-001. It’s an easy watch to love, with good proportions, a hefty 38 mm platinum case, a lively “salmon” dial, and is powered by the brand’s latest generation movement. Though the brand was arguably overshadowed this year by its suburban Geneva neighbors Rolex and Vacheron Constantin, at lower and higher ends of the price spectrum, respectively, Patek Philippe demonstrated its ability to deliver in every category, from simple dress and sport watches to mid and high complications. Initial thoughts In February 2017 I was asked what I wished to see from Baselworld that year. I said I’d like to see a successor to the ref. 5196 with a case-filling movement and a large balance. Eight years later, Patek Philippe delivered more or less exactly what I imagined, keeping the proportions and details of the classic Calatrava with a more advanced movement than the outdated cal. 215 that was used at the time. So in a sense, this watch was made for me.  But I had not anticipated a “salmon” dial. Officially labelled “rose-gilt opaline” by Patek Philippe, such dials have become popular among collectors, and are now a staple across the Patek Philippe collection. Naturally, a vivid colour like this helps an otherwise simple watch stand out, but personally I look forward to more toned down iter...

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Sunday Morning Showdown: Tudor Pelagos Vs. Pelagos Ultra Fratello
Tudor Pelagos Vs Pelagos Ultra Apr 20, 2025

Sunday Morning Showdown: Tudor Pelagos Vs. Pelagos Ultra

It’s Sunday morning, so it’s time for a cup of coffee and a new installment of Sunday Morning Showdown. This week, we continue the series with another watch unveiled during Watches and Wonders. The most talked-about Tudor release was, without a doubt, the new Pelagos Ultra. This new beefed-up and modernized version of the regular […] Visit Sunday Morning Showdown: Tudor Pelagos Vs. Pelagos Ultra to read the full article.

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Introducing: The Arnold & Son Constant Force Tourbillon 11 Fratello
Arnold & Son Apr 19, 2025

Introducing: The Arnold & Son Constant Force Tourbillon 11

There were plenty of standout releases at Watches and Wonders 2025, but one watch keeps coming up in my memories. The Arnold & Son Constant Force Tourbillon 11 was a delight in the metal. Plus, the reason for the watch centers on a story with actual meaning. Watch companies indeed find a reason to celebrate […] Visit Introducing: The Arnold & Son Constant Force Tourbillon 11 to read the full article.

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