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Our Favorite Complicated Watches Of 2025 Teddy Baldassarre
Dec 27, 2025

Our Favorite Complicated Watches Of 2025

When the editorial team here at Teddy was tasked with picking some of our favorite complicated watches of 2025, there was an important distinction that had to be drawn. Of course, this was the fine line between our favorite watches that absolutely nail or master a specific complication rather than just the“most complicated” watches or watches with the most complications. This year we saw one of the best world timers for the money, a novel take on the moon-phase, and Audemars Piguet’s final Research & Development watch. So without further ado, here are our picks for our favorite complicated watches of 2025. [toc-section heading="Hamilton Khaki Field Automatic Power Reserve 40mm"] Sometimes we overlook the power reserve indicator as a complication in a watch - but indeed it is and Hamilton outfitted one of its most popular watches with a power reserve indicator on the dial thus setting the new Khaki Field Power Reserve to take its place among our favorite complicates watches of 2025. You will recognize this watch for bearing so many of the hallmarks of the Khaki Field Mechanical but with the added gas-tank indicator style gauge at the nine o’clock portion of the dial. It’s 40mm in diameter and a touch under 12mm in case height and boasts a new movement under the hood by way of the H23 manual winding caliber with 80 hours of power reserve and a slipping spring that allows for winding to exceed the manual maximum in a “quirk” that also serves to aid the watch...

Reviewing The New Rado Captain Cook High-Tech Ceramic Chronograph WatchAdvice
Rado Captain Cook High-Tech Ceramic Dec 26, 2025

Reviewing The New Rado Captain Cook High-Tech Ceramic Chronograph

Rado has recently released the new Captain Cook High-Tech Ceramic Chronograph in black ceramic, and we wanted to test the latest iteration from the brand. What We Love The combination of matte and polished ceramic looks good The colourway is highly versatile The dial & bezel are highly legible during both day and nighttime thanks to the Super-LumiNova What We Don’t The bracelet clasp design is a little fiddly to open and close The screw-down pushers are not the easiest to operate when on the wrist It is a thick watch and won’t suit smaller wrists Overall Rating: 7.75/10 Value for money: 7.5/10 Wearability: 7.5/10 Design: 8.5/10 Build quality: 7.5/10 As a watch enthusiast, there’s plenty of pieces out there to choose from. From low-end entry-level models to super high-end grand complications, the range is vast. But if you’re looking for a mid-level piece as a daily wearer, then the Captain Cook has always been the go-to model from Rado. As their tagline suggests, they are the Master of Materials when it comes to High-Tech ceramic, and as a material, ceramic is both versatile and robust. So much so that I bought my wife an all-white High-Tech Ceramic Rado True Thinline about 10 years ago, and it looks the same as the day I walked out of Wallace Bishop in Brisbane. The last Rado I personally reviewed was over 2 years ago now – the Bronze Captain Cook Chronograph which you can read about here, and I was quietly impressed with the watch and the value for money at the ...

Year in Review: Predictions for 2026 SJX Watches
Christopher Ward Dec 26, 2025

Year in Review: Predictions for 2026

Twenty twenty-six is just days away. Most in the watch industry are hoping the new year will bring better times than 2025, though most equally don’t quite expect that to happen. That said, it will be a great year for some brands, big and small. Architectural and affordable Independent watch brands have had a great run, and that looks like it’ll continue, especially for (expensive) time-only watches with decorated movements and frequently, open or no dials. Plenty of independent watchmakers cater to this demand, all for more or less the same money. Personally, I find many such watches uninteresting – though a few stand out and feel like they will stand the test of time – but the strength of demand will propel this trend. I expect two more interesting developments to emerge from this. One is watches priced lower, or much lower, than the typical CHF65,000-90,000 range for such watches. Ironically, while lower priced options might offer better value, they might be less appealing precisely because they are cheaper. That said, there is still opportunity in this segment, especially since lower prices often go hand-in-hand with higher volumes, so the market will gradually fulfil it, particularly since the way forward is obvious. Functionally, such watches are not complex. Computer-aided design makes it even simpler by allowing manufacturers to rework existing calibres with relative ease; Christopher Ward is already doing something along these lines with the C12. And decora...

Year in Review: the Changing Shape of Watch Media, and the Center of Watch Culture Worn & Wound
Dec 26, 2025

Year in Review: the Changing Shape of Watch Media, and the Center of Watch Culture

It’s the end of the year, which means it’s the one time on the calendar when you the reader will be able to stand a little naval gazing about the state of watch media. Look, it’s my job to reflect on this stuff constantly, but I also know that in practical terms, it’s not really something most watch enthusiasts necessarily want to hear about. When it comes to our readership one thing is overwhelmingly true: it really is about the watches, and the data bears that out. But it’s also impossible to ignore the titanic shift in how all of this works.  Artificial intelligence has fundamentally changed how enthusiasts and collectors interact with watch “stuff” on the internet and social media. Even if you’re not actively using ChatGPT or other services to get your watch related questions answered, it’s happening in the background constantly in ways you may or may not realize. Your search results no longer bring you to websites like ours, but spit out summaries answering your queries that draw from our articles and those of our peers. And the reels and posts (but mostly reels – who’s making static posts these days besides me?) that you see on Instagram are fed to you by an AI fueled algorithm. Is it showing you what you actually want to see? Hard to say.  To that point, a brief aside: have you seen the new feature in Instagram that tells you what your algorithm is feeding you? It’s fascinating(?) but also probably a little useless. Mine says I’m interest...

Our Favorite Sports Watches Of 2025 Teddy Baldassarre
Dec 26, 2025

Our Favorite Sports Watches Of 2025

The versatile sports watch is probably the most difficult category to do one of these year-end roundups for simply due to how many releases can qualify. The editorial team here at Teddy decided to choose our favorites that push the category forward while retaining what we all love best from some of the best sports watch collections out there. It was an excellent year for iterating some of the most well-loved collections from Oris, Tudor, Seiko, and others. So, let’s not waste any more time and get into our favorite sports watches of 2025. [toc-section heading="Seiko Samurai"] Seiko updated their Samurai in 2025 by delivering on one of the most persistent pleas by enthusiasts and housing it in a smaller case. The previous iteration of Seiko’s more obscure (yet no less respected) dive watches came in a big 44mm wide case that has been shrunk down to a manageable 41.6mm wide and 12.6mm thick with a 49mm lug-to-lug height. Naturally water resistance is still a solid 200m. The new Seiko Samurai is one of my personal favorites of 2025 though I know a few people still have gripes with the choice of an aluminum bezel rather than ceramic. But past that, the sleek angular aesthetic and nice tapered three-link bracelet (which has a much more manageable 20mm lug width down from 22mm) make for a fantastic sports watch priced under $600. - Bilal Khan [toc-section heading="Oris ProPilot Date"] This year, Oris rounded things out with one of its most compelling releases in recent mem...

Recap – The Best Integrated and Elegant Sports Watches of 2025 Monochrome
Dec 26, 2025

Recap – The Best Integrated and Elegant Sports Watches of 2025

Watches with integrated bracelets and elegant-sports designs remain popular. While the hype seems to have cooled slightly, the category continues to be very competitive, but also creative. From big watchmaking brands refining icons to young independents challenging the rules, 2025 has produced a stellar mix of timepieces that combine innovation, design, and craftsmanship. We’ve selected […]

SJX Podcast: Best of 2025 – Complications SJX Watches
Vacheron Constantin s 270th Dec 26, 2025

SJX Podcast: Best of 2025 – Complications

Episode 22 of the SJX Podcast looks back at the complicated watches that emerged in 2025, a banner year that saw major brands deliver ambitious and record-setting complications. Several anniversaries, including Vacheron Constantin’s 270th and Audemars Piguet’s 150th, resulted in inspired releases. Big brands delivered big hits, from Lange’s black enamel minute repeater perpetual calendar to Blancpain’s Grande Double Sonnerie, which feature a four-note melody composed by Kiss drummer Eric Singer. For its part, Chopard finally gave its sapphire gongs the platform they always deserved with the Grand Strike, the brand’s first-ever grande sonnerie. And while Audemars Piguet’s big anniversary was headlined by the RD#5, the brand’s crown-operated perpetual calendar was another important addition to the field of complications this year. Listen on Apple Podcasts, Spotify, and Youtube.  

Fratello’s Top 5 Small-Brand Watches Of 2025 - Featuring Echo/Neutra, Laventure, Berneron, And More Fratello
Berneron Dec 26, 2025

Fratello’s Top 5 Small-Brand Watches Of 2025 - Featuring Echo/Neutra, Laventure, Berneron, And More

Another Friday, another list! We hope you had a wonderful Christmas Day with plenty of delicious food and refreshing drinks. As you recover from potential late-night celebrations, we offer some light entertainment today. For our series of best-of-2025 articles, it’s now time to look at some of this year’s best small-brand watches. After last week’s […] Visit Fratello’s Top 5 Small-Brand Watches Of 2025 - Featuring Echo/Neutra, Laventure, Berneron, And More to read the full article.

Hands-On With The New Pragma P1 – Perseverance In Solar Stainless Steel And Tantalum With A New Azurite-Blue Dial Fratello
Dec 26, 2025

Hands-On With The New Pragma P1 – Perseverance In Solar Stainless Steel And Tantalum With A New Azurite-Blue Dial

In the case of Pragma, being called a goody two-shoes is a plus. Typically, the moniker describes someone who is prudish and self-righteous. A goody two-shoes is an ambitious overachiever striving to be perfect; remember that one teacher’s pet in your class in high school who nobody liked? Behaving excessively virtuously can be off-putting in […] Visit Hands-On With The New Pragma P1 – Perseverance In Solar Stainless Steel And Tantalum With A New Azurite-Blue Dial to read the full article.

Year in Review: the “Sleeper” Watches of 2025 Worn & Wound
Zenith G.F.J.  Dec 25, 2025

Year in Review: the “Sleeper” Watches of 2025

How does one define a “sleeper” watch? We put together a guide a few years ago and basically came to the conclusion that a sleeper watch is one that is great but not obvious about it. A better framing might be that these are “if you know, you know” watches. They all have some attribute that makes them incredibly special but it’s not always readily apparent or widely understood.  Honestly, I love a sleeper and always have. I think it’s a natural focus for a collector, and as you see more and more watches, it paradoxically becomes more difficult to identify the sleepers, because nothing really “sleeps” when you’re highly engaged in a hobby like this.  Zenith G.F.J.  The Zenith G.F.J. is a sleeper because it’s so specific and so hard to see, it’s just not really out there all that much in the broader watch media landscape. But man, it’s great. It’s a tribute of sorts to Zenith’s history as true pioneers in chronometry, but the appeal for this watch to me is purely aesthetic. It’s a study in blue, with multiple tones in multiple materials and finishes. From a distance, it’s nice looking enough, but you really have to examine it close up, with a loupe, to get a sense of the contrasts and how special the use of lapis lazuli is in particular.  And then there’s the bracelet. The G.F.J. is rendered in platinum, and the case is fantastic, but on the full platinum bracelet (which effectively doubles the price of the watch) it really makes an impr...

Introducing the Latest Collaboration Between Maurice Lacroix and Label Noir Worn & Wound
Maurice Lacroix Dec 25, 2025

Introducing the Latest Collaboration Between Maurice Lacroix and Label Noir

While not my style, I can see the appeal of a skeleton-style watch–it’s admittedly engrossing to watch the internals of your timepiece tick away, and an exhibition caseback can only show so much when it’s plastered to your wrist. So, I am not the target audience for watches like the new Maurice Lacroix Label Noir Aikon Manufacture Skeleton, but if you are, I’ll do my best to give you all the juicy details.  Founded in Zurich in 1975, Swiss watch brand Maurice Lacroix is known for stylistically brash and boundary-pushing watches; even their tamer models tend to feature bright colors or adventurous materials, and they have quite a few creative skeleton pieces in their catalogue, particularly in their Aikon line. The new Aikon Manufacture Skeleton, in collaboration with Geneva-based Label Noir, pushes that ethos ever-forward. Measuring in at a large-and-loud 45mm in diameter and 12mm in height, the black DLC-plated stainless steel case bears dual-segments at every other hour, framing the sapphire skeleton dial. A screw-down crown ensures 100 meters of water resistance, and two provided straps shake up the aesthetic profile of the watch: the gray leather strap gives it a much more subdued look, while the turquoise rubber alternative lends it a much louder persona.  Translucent black varnish on the sapphire dial gives the watch an almost smoky look at the edges, and creates a highlight point of clarity in the middle of the dial, where the turquoise-plated hands meet. ...

Kari Voutilainen Steps Back at Urban Jürgensen SJX Watches
Urban Jürgensen Dec 25, 2025

Kari Voutilainen Steps Back at Urban Jürgensen

After four years leading the relaunch of Urban Jürgensen (UJ) alongside co-chief executive Alex Rosenfield, Kari Voutilainen is returning to the bench and dedicate his time to watchmaking and development, while Mr Rosenfeld will assume the role of sole chief executive. Despite this change, the relationship between Mr Voutilainen and UJ remains strong; he will still be involved, albeit in a more hands-off capacity as a shareholder, board member, and senior strategic advisor. From this vantage point, Mr Voutilainen, who has a long history with UJ, should retain substantial influence over the brand’s direction. Initial thoughts The news of Kari Voutilainen stepping back from day-to-day executive responsibilities at UJ seems natural, and was probably inevitable. Having gotten the relaunched brand into orbit, Mr Voutilainen is putting things in the hands of the team at UJ to carry on. Judging by the steady pace of deliveries so far this year, there’s plenty of reason to be optimistic about their capabilities. One reason this change seems natural is that it follows a similar move at Voutilainen earlier this month. Mr Voutilainen has been planning for the future and putting management teams in place to build a long-term business and free up more of his own capacity for working on new watches and movements. His daughter, Venla, is also stepping down from her role as chief operating officer at UJ in order to assist with the family business. Kari Voutilainen alongside recently ...

Our Favorite Dressy Watches Of 2025 Teddy Baldassarre
Dec 24, 2025

Our Favorite Dressy Watches Of 2025

For a category often seen as a safe harbor for demure and conservative design, the dress watch regularly delivers some of the year’s most memorable releases and 2025 was no different. In fact, we had to do things a little different here by not having any honorable mentions altogether just because all of these pieces really shone. And one of my favorite decisions from our editorial team came together for this story when we decided to award two watches for their awe-inspiring executions of a gold Milanese bracelet. So, without further ado, here are our favorite dress watches of 2025: [toc-section heading="Raymond Weil Toccata Heritage"] Raymond Weil’s Toccata Heritage Seconde/Seconde edition is the fruits of a collaboration between the independent Swiss watchmaker and designer Romaric Andre, known for his playful customization of watch dials. This latest iteration of the brand’s oval-cased dress watch - its name drawn from the world of classical music, a passion of the brand’s eponymous founder - is described as a “horological Simon Says:” its dial is divided into two different shades of anthracite gray, with Dauphine hands in the center, each inscribed with fashion-forward “dress codes” on how to wear the watch. The right sector, with polished indexes, has vertically oriented guidelines on where the wearer’s shirt cuff should land in three different scenarios (business casual, formal, and semi-formal, plus the “sweet spot” halfway divider), while t...

Year in Review: Our Best Stories of 2025 SJX Watches
Patek Philippe ref 1518 Dec 24, 2025

Year in Review: Our Best Stories of 2025

Our 2025 coverage included original research and in-depth stories including CEO interviews, engineering explainers, behind-the-scenes manufacture visits, and hands-on features exploring the latest developments in modern horology. We’d like to thank our readers for their engagement and support, which continue to shape and sustain our work. Our founder SJX provided an in-depth study of the Breguet Sympathique No. 1, with exclusive insights from its creator François-Paul Journe. The story is notable not only for its technical reconstruction of the mechanism but also for clarifying how the Sympathique informed Journe’s earliest thinking as a constructor before launching his namesake brand. SJX also spent time with the people leading the industry. Interviews with Kari Voutilainen, Gregory Kissling, Ilaria Resta, and Marc Michel-Amadry offered unusually direct insight into how each manufacture is approaching product development, heritage, and shifting collector behaviour. That research-driven approach continued across several technical features, including his hands-on review of the Rolex Land-Dweller, the most consequential mainstream release of 2025. His analysis unpacked both the engineering decisions behind the cal. 7135 and the strategic implications of Rolex introducing a new collection. Finally his analysis of the record-breaking Patek Philippe ref. 1518 in steel and reporting from the major auctions traced the evolving tastes and appetites of a tightening pool of top...

Our Favorite Chronos Of 2025 Teddy Baldassarre
Dec 23, 2025

Our Favorite Chronos Of 2025

Chronographs are one of the most popular and yet under-appreciated watches out there. While we might take them for granted due to the relative ease of finding a nice one at just about any price point, the watchmaking on display can be as impressive as that from more exotic complications. 2025 was a fantastic year for fans of the chronograph with Omega releasing a manual wind iteration of their sportier ceramic take on the Speedmaster. And then there’s Breguet, who have been on a roll all year. Let’s take a look at our favorite new chronographs for this year and while not all of them made the list, there are some particularly robust honorable mentions here. [toc-section heading="Longines Spirit Flyback Chronograph"] The Longines Spirit Flyback Chronograph was given a refresh that, in my opinion, puts it in the running for one of the best chronographs out there period. It was previously offered only in a 42mm case but now comes in a fantastic compact 39.5mm wide stainless steel case that comes in at a lug-to-lug height of just around 47.4mm. Of course, it’s not just the case diameter that matters, it’s also the thickness and the reduction from a hefty 17mm to 13.4mm is truly transformative. The L792.4 calibre movement is a manual wind take on the Valjoux 7750 that also gets a contemporary makeover with a silicon balance spring and COSC certification on top of the 68-hour power reserve. While the price of $5,350 on strap and $5,500 might not shout “value” to some,...

Year in Review: the Best “Money No Object” Watches of 2025 Worn & Wound
Richard Mille or Jacob & Co Dec 23, 2025

Year in Review: the Best “Money No Object” Watches of 2025

I’m long on record saying the mark of a genuine enthusiast is being able to get just as excited about a $100 Timex or G-Shock as about a $100,000 Rolex or Patek. I still think there’s something to that. Still, I also recognize that summing it up so patly, though convenient, ignores a huge amount of the nuance that undeniably exists in the watch space. It also ignores some of the fundamental impacts of price, including, crucially, attainability. After all, there are very few enthusiast pursuits (or, really, pursuits of any kind) where price and pursuit can be wholly siloed, and watches are not some rare example where we can afford to be price agnostic - at least, not most of us. Still, once in a while, it can be fun to just say screw it and enjoy watches for what they can be at their most extreme. Which brings us to the topic of today’s 2025 round-up, “F**k You Money” watches. The concept of a “F**k You Money” watch can be a bit nebulous. Unlike dive watches or chronographs, say, which either are or are not what they say they are, there’s no real set definition for what qualifies as “F**k You Money,” but like Supreme Court Justice Potter Stewart and pornography, I may not be able to specifically articulate what qualifies as a F**k You Money watch, but I know it when I see it. gérald genta Geneva Minute Repeater You thought I was gonna start with some crazy Richard Mille or Jacob & Co., didn’t you? Well, this probably isn’t going to be that kind of...

Complicated Collectors: Henry Graves Jr. SJX Watches
Dec 23, 2025

Complicated Collectors: Henry Graves Jr.

By the early 1930s, Henry Graves Jr lived a life shaped by precision, inheritance, and permanence. It was from this vantage - both social and literal - that he took up residence behind the limestone façade of 834 Fifth Avenue, Rosario Candela’s neo-Renaissance co-operative that replaced hulking mansions with what contemporary coverage called “a series of luxurious homes” in a building that was promised to be “a worthy and lasting landmark”. The promise held: in 2007 the New York Observer called the address “the most pedigreed building on the snobbiest street in the country’s most real estate–obsessed city.” This reputation was sustained in part by its prodigious roster of illustrious owners, from Berwind and Rockefeller to Murdoch and Blavatnik, names that reflect the same social altitude that drew Graves there in the first place. 834 Fifth Avenue where Henry Graves Jr. lived when he received the Supercomplication in 1933. Image – The New York Public Library/collage. From the window of his high apartment, Graves could watch the constellations lift over the dark mass of branches and the curving drives, the lamps along the park paths thinning as the air cleared towards the river. Inside, in a room lined with paintings and prints, a heavy yellow gold watch lay on a table. Opened on its reverse dial, it carried that same sky, compressed into enamel and gold, calculated for this exact latitude and this exact view. The Supercomplication framed the night ...