Hodinkee
Five Things I Still *Can Not* Believe Are A Thing In Modern, High-End Watchmaking
Nobody loves great watchmaking more than me – but these things have just got to change.
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Hodinkee
Worn & Wound
Hands-On: the Citizen Promaster Diver (37mm)
Amidst the three and four-figure divers that dominate the market, Citizen has a reputation for being the everyman’s watch. Though the brand offers a variety of styles and price points, their dive watches tend to be one of the most popular options amongst their fan base. Launched in 1989, the Promaster series was developed with the goal of providing professional-grade, reliable watches for divers and outdoor enthusiasts. The first Promaster dive watch was equipped with advanced features like a high-water resistance rating, luminous hands for visibility underwater, and a rotating bezel to track elapsed time.These Promasters featured an arrow logo, symbolizing the watch’s ability to “go higher and deeper” than Citizen’s previous collections. This arrow is still included on the crown of modern Promaster references, tying these new releases into a longer history of one of the brand’s favored series. Citizen made waves in the summer of 2023 when they released a smaller version of their Eco-Drive divers. Those releases brought the Eco-Drive Promaster, traditionally sized 44mm, into the realm of the smaller-wristed by shaving off a whopping seven millimeters. These options came in three dial colors: gray, blue, and black, and all had a color-matched bezel. Three more colorways were debuted this past December, which included purple, blue, and red dial options. Along with the new colors, the brand made some aesthetic changes to these 37mm divers. Though the three color...
Teddy Baldassarre
The Quintessential American-Made Watch Movement in a Smaller Case: Int
RGM Watch Company, named for the initials of its founder, independent watchmaker Roland G. Murphy, is the first American watch company to serially produce a mechanical watch movement since 1969 — the year that Lancaster, PA-based Hamilton pulled up stakes for its current HQ in Switzerland. Murphy, formerly Hamilton’s Technical Manager, founded his own eponymous company in Lancaster County, a historical hotbed of watchmaking, in 1992. His fledgling firm made the watch industry, and the worldwide watch-enthusiast community, take notice when it created, essentially from scratch, the groundbreaking Caliber 801 in 2007 — a horological milestone that no other watchmaker in the United States had achieved in nearly 40 years. Since then, Caliber 801 has come to define RGM’s distinctive and still very exclusive product family — the brand still makes only around 300 pieces annually — along with its dedication to classically vintage aesthetics, which evoke the bygone days when America reigned supreme as a watchmaking nation. Up until now, however, the smallest RGM watch you could get that housed the Caliber 801 movement, 90 percent of which is made in the U.S.A. and finished and assembled in Lancaster County, was 42mm — not huge, but still a bit intimidating for some would-be owners as case sizes continue to trend smaller. This week, RGM answers that constituency's prayers with the release of the Caliber 801/40 model, whose 40mm stainless steel case represents, accor...
Monochrome
Portrait - Kortela Valta, a New Independent Watchmaking Discovery From Finland
Finland has birthed some of the most fascinating watchmakers outside of Switzerland and has long left its mark on the watchmaking industry. Think of names like Kari Voutilainen and Stepan Sarpaneva, to name just two. Perhaps lesser known, but not to be overlooked, is Reima Koivukoski, whom we introduced to you about a year ago. […]
Fratello
The Rare 1994 Platinum Omega Speedmaster Skeleton By Armin Strom
Of course, you are familiar with Omega and, most probably, Armin Strom as well. But did you know that Armin Strom, founder of the eponymous brand, was once the artisan doing all the skeleton work for Omega in the 1990s? Skeleton watches The art of movement skeletonization is old, and we still see it today […] Visit The Rare 1994 Platinum Omega Speedmaster Skeleton By Armin Strom to read the full article.
Worn & Wound
Parmigiani Fleurier Introduces a New Tonda PF in Platinum
Among higher end Swiss watch brands, few have experienced a greater turnaround, at least on the surface, over the past several years than Parmigiani Fleurier. Parmigiani has always been a brand that knowledgable collectors and enthusiasts have praised and found a great deal of value in, but the brand itself didn’t always seem healthy. Before Guido Terreni took over in 2021, it would have been quite common to find heavily discounted Parmigianis on the gray market – a common symptom of overproducing too many references and not being able to find your core customer. Under Terreni, the brand’s output has been streamlined and everything just seems more thought through. And while I don’t have insight into sales statistics, you certainly don’t see the brand’s current catalog selling for closeout prices on the discount sites, a sign that they’ve got production under control, at the very least. One of the brand’s biggest gambits has been the exploring the integrated bracelet sports watch market with the Tonda PF collection. Launched at a time when every luxury brand was throwing their hat in the ring in this particular category, Parmigiani has sought to differentiate itself from competitors in the luxury integrated bracelet sports watch world by leaning into the luxury angle, and perhaps a little away from the sport. Inspired by a “sartorial approach” to watch design, the Tonda PF is all about feel, texture, and proportions in a manner similar to a bespoke sui...
Fratello
Greubel Forsey: The Art Of Invention - A Book By Michael Clerizo
How did this book land on my desk? “Thomas, you wrote a watch book; why don’t you review this one?” - that’s how. To be fair, I am woefully unqualified to do so both because I cannot stand in author Michael Clerizo’s shadow and because I usually review watches. I feel I must start with […] Visit Greubel Forsey: The Art Of Invention - A Book By Michael Clerizo to read the full article.
Fratello
Fratello On Air: Discussing Vintage Chronographs - Part 2
Welcome back to Fratello On Air! This week, we tackle the second half of our discussion on vintage chronographs. We get into the weeds in this episode, so we hope you like it nerdy! This podcast player is blocked because you did not accept marketing cookies. Change cookie settings Last week, we kicked off this […] Visit Fratello On Air: Discussing Vintage Chronographs - Part 2 to read the full article.
Monochrome
Introducing - The New Mido Commander Gradient in Green
Mido, one of the accessible brands of the Swatch Group, introduced the Gradient series to its Commander collection a few years ago, showcasing semi-transparent dégradé dials that reveal much of the movement beneath. Since then, the lineup has expanded with versions now available in black and blue, in stainless steel uncoated or with black PVD, […]
Fratello
Introducing: The IWC Big Pilot’s Watch Shock Absorber XPL Toto Wolff × Mercedes-AMG Petronas Formula One Team Watch
A couple of big questions are at the top of my mind ahead of the upcoming Formula 1 season. Will Max Verstappen once again become world champion? Can Lewis Hamilton fight for his eighth world title in a Ferrari? And also, will Mercedes-AMG Petronas be back on top after a few difficult years? One thing […] Visit Introducing: The IWC Big Pilot’s Watch Shock Absorber XPL Toto Wolff × Mercedes-AMG Petronas Formula One Team Watch to read the full article.
Fratello
Hands-On With The New Sternglas Tachymeter 2.0
Sternglas continues to evolve its watch lineup rapidly. Today’s new Tachymeter 2.0 is a great example because it replaces the original model after a short three-year production run. We like it when a company is not content to rest with its existing designs. The question, as always, is whether the newest watch is an improvement. […] Visit Hands-On With The New Sternglas Tachymeter 2.0 to read the full article.
Worn & Wound
Bell & Ross Introduces the BR-03 Astro
A few months back at a watch collector’s get together, I was asked by a friend how we at Worn & Wound decide what to write about when it comes to new releases. It’s a good question. Obviously, we can’t cover everything, so decisions have to be made somewhere about what we devote time and energy to, and what we ultimately think is less essential. Obviously, there are a number of brands that are almost always going to be somewhat newsworthy and of interest to our readers, and they tend to be prioritized. There are also watches that are of a more personal interest to some of us, maybe less commercial, but still noteworthy in some respect. A category, though, that almost always makes it through, is when a watch comes around that makes me want to check off the “unique” button in our content management system. Not a diver, not a dress watch, not sport or tactical. A watch that can only or primarily be described as “unique” is almost always going to get a pass. Bell & Ross has a knack for these, and the latest is the BR-03 Astro, a 999 piece limited edition inspired by nothing less than outer space, and our own solar system. Bruno Belamich, the brand’s co-founder and creative director, says he was inspired specifically by the view of the earth from the observation dome, the Cupola, of the International Space Station. The dial is blue aventurine (obviously evoking a star filled sky) with the brilliant blue, spherical representation of earth at its center. An engr...
Monochrome
Industry News - Morgan Stanley’s Top 50 Watch Brands for 2024, Rolex Still by far the Leader, Overall Market Suffered
Like every year and for now eight consecutive times, Swiss watch industry consultancy firm LuxeConsult and financial institution Morgan Stanley have worked together to bring their annual report of the Swiss watch industry, and the estimated revenues of the top 50 brands. While the 2023 report showed records for the market, it also indicated the […]
Worn & Wound
The Seiko Orange Monster SKX781: Why the First Generation is Still an International Superstar in 2025
“If it ain’t broke, don’t fix it” is an idiom that will seemingly always ring true throughout the watch industry for brands of all different origins and ages. There are certain watch models that are so easily recognizable because of their distinctive and timeless looks, and while other companies eventually attempt to replicate them and hopefully attain the same amount of success, they can never truly capture the essence of the original. The Seiko Orange Monster may not be everyone’s cup of tea. It’s a girthy diver with a bright dial, large lume-filled indices, and a heavy-duty stainless-steel shroud that I’m quite positive would look amiss with a three-piece suit. That being said, however, millions worldwide have embraced its robust and striking aesthetics over the years. The First-Generation models, while similar to their successors on the surface, have cemented themselves as cult classics within the collector sphere. Why? For a few reasons, I think. Reason 1: An Overall Oddity with Near Perfect Proportions When the Monster series was first announced, there was nothing quite like it on the market. Reception upon its initial release of reference SKX781 in 2000 was polarizing––some found the ambitious design, for lack of a better term, ugly. As time went on, more and more skeptics began to fall for its unique aesthetics and Seiko, noticing this trend, continued production of the Monster series for over two decades with minor tweaks here and there. The ...
Fratello
Trying On Two Versions Of The Holthinrichs Signature Ornament, The Dutch Brand’s Entry-Level Watch
Michiel Holthinrichs, an architect turned watch manufacturer, made a name for himself and his brand by introducing the world’s first watch with a 3D-printed stainless steel case in 2016. State-of-the-art technology and machining processes created cases with swooping lines and sensual curves, but the human touch made the watches sexy; the machines could only do […] Visit Trying On Two Versions Of The Holthinrichs Signature Ornament, The Dutch Brand’s Entry-Level Watch to read the full article.
Time+Tide
Alto brings us two Monochrome takes on its edgy ART 01
The young independent brand Alto is taking a monotoned second step with its sequel to the ART 01 of last year. The post Alto brings us two Monochrome takes on its edgy ART 01 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Louis Vuitton’s Tambour Goes Upmarket with Ceramic and Gemstones
During the recent LVMH Watch Week, Louis Vuitton revealed new, luxe variants of its Tambour (alongside the unexpected Convergence). Originally launched in relatively conservative guises, the slim sports watch now gets more interesting – and pricey – with the use of ceramic and gemstones. A nod to the brand’s monogram canvas, the Tambour Ceramic is a mix of brushed brown ceramic and 18k pink gold. And the pair of “High End” models is made up of the Tambour Platinum Rainbow sporting sapphires and rubies (pictured above), and the Tambour Yellow Gold Onyx that’s set with orange sapphires. The Tambour Ceramic Initial thoughts I like the Tambour because it’s an appealing design that wears notably well. The thin case sits flat on the wrist and the feel is elegant. Though the styling is more subtle than earlier versions of the Tambour, most of which were large and chunky, the new Tambour is still a recognisable design that retains elements of the drum-like originals. The new versions are appealing for the same reason, but upgraded in terms of materials. There’s nothing to complain about, except the cost. The ceramic model is €75,000 while the platinum “rainbow” is €150,000 – fair relative to the market but still hefty. These are on par with equivalent watches from comparable brands, and the small number made help rationalise the numbers. The Tambour Yellow Gold Onyx is a limited edition of just 30 However, the new Tambour models share the same LFT023.01 f...
Fratello
Louis Vuitton Introduces A Trio Of Tambour Watches
Since its launch in 2023, the redesigned Louis Vuitton Tambour has led a watchmaking renaissance for a marque best known for its handbags and trunks. The iconic Parisian fashion house isn’t new to watches, but the focus on upscale pieces that compete with traditional watchmakers began in 2011 with the purchase of La Fabrique du […] Visit Louis Vuitton Introduces A Trio Of Tambour Watches to read the full article.
Deployant
New: Louis Vuitton Tambour Ceramic
Louis Vuitton releases a new addition to their Tambour line in the form of the Tambour Ceramic. Now in ceramic and rose gold.
Monochrome
Introducing - IWC Launches a Big Pilot Shock Absorber XPL for AMG’s Toto Wolff
As we’re gearing up for the 2025 Formula One season, which has recently changed its official timekeeper, we’ve started to see some F1-dedicated watches being launched. IWC, the partner of Mercedes-AMG Petronas Formula One Team, already warmed us up with a colourful take on its simplest Pilot’s Watch, the Mark XX AMG Team watch. Now, […]
SJX Watches
Bell & Ross Takes On the Cosmos with the BR-03 Astro
Bell & Ross, the Franco-Swiss watchmaker celebrated for its aviation instrument-inspired timepieces, ventures into the celestial realm with the BR-03 Astro. This striking new model, limited to 999 pieces, takes inspiration from the larger theme of space exploration, capturing the Earth, Moon, and Mars within its avant-garde dial. Despite the seemingly cosmic display, the dial only indicates the hours, minutes, and seconds in a conventional manner, keeping the watch affordable. By merging sharp execution with a cosmic narrative, Bell & Ross introduces an imaginative take on its mostly functional “tool” watches. Initial thoughts At the core of the BR-03 Astro sits a unique, if simplistic, reinterpretation of a “planetary” movement. Over the celestial aventurine glass base, a tiny Mars indicates the hours, a realistic-looking Moon indicates the minutes, and a satellite marks the passing seconds. All these indicators revolve around a large Earth that rests immobile at the centre of the dial. What is basically a three-hand watch becomes a rather immersive reinterpretation of the universe. While the motion of the planets is not accurate, the interplay of these well-reproduced celestial bodies has an undeniable appeal to it. The BR-03 Astro is not an astronomical complication nor an accurate cosmos model but manages to appeal through its playful take on the space theme, while staying in the same price range as the more conventional BR-03 models. This is an interesti...
W
Worn & Wound
Worn & Wound
A Week in Watches Ep. 99: Grand Seiko, Baltic, and More!
On Episode 99 of A Week in Watches, Zach takes us through a few new releases and ends on a brand-obit. First up are a few new models from Grand Seiko that, shocker, are inspired by nature. Next is a look at a new take on the Hermétique sport/field watch by Baltic with added functionality. After, it’s over to Germany to check out the new and very impressive watches by Jochen Benzinger. Finally, it’s time to bid farewell to Carl F. Bucherer. The DIY Watch Club sponsors this episode of A Week in Watches. Building a watch will elevate your appreciation for timepieces. Perfect bezel alignment? Blued steel hands? Mind-blowing lume? With DIY Watch Club, you get to experience the craftsmanship firsthand and gain a whole new level of appreciation for your watches. Learn more here The post A Week in Watches Ep. 99: Grand Seiko, Baltic, and More! appeared first on Worn & Wound.
Time+Tide
Why you should wear a broken watch
Wearing watches that don't work seems sacrilegious for a watch writer - but Buffy makes the case for wearing timepieces that don't tick.The post Why you should wear a broken watch appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Deployant
New: Perrelet x seconde/seconde/
French artist Romain André, aka, seconde/seconde collaborates to design an new, fresh look at Perrelet's iconic Turbine movement.
Monochrome
Buying Guide - Answering The Call Of The Wild, With 6 Animal- & Nature-Inspired Watches
The roar of the King of the Jungle, the venomous bite of a snake, the trembling of the earth underneath horse’s hooves… Nature can be an impressive thing and a divine source of inspiration. To such an extent even, that it finds a way to manifest itself on our wrists, in the form of a […]
Fratello
Hands-On With The Intriguing Konstantin Chaykin Joker “Fiat Lux”
A continuous jovial smile in the often overserious world of watches comes courtesy of Konstantin Chaykin. With the debut of the Joker in 2017, the Russian watchmaker introduced the Wristmons collection of watches that combines fun with serious watchmaking. Over the past seven years, he has created 40 characters for the series. The sheer number […] Visit Hands-On With The Intriguing Konstantin Chaykin Joker “Fiat Lux” to read the full article.
Time+Tide
Are “JDM” Seikos really that much better than normal Seiko watches?
Most Seiko lovers would prefer to own a Japanese-made "JDM" Seiko to an international version. But is this preference well-founded?The post Are “JDM” Seikos really that much better than normal Seiko watches? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
The history of Cartier, the watchmaker of shapes
Cartier has accumulated one of the densest and most revolutionary histories of any luxury brand - here's everything you need to know.The post The history of Cartier, the watchmaker of shapes appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Fratello
Sunday Morning Showdown: Omega Seamaster 37mm Milano Cortina 2026 Vs. Chopard L.U.C XPS
Good morning, dear Fratelli. It’s Sunday again, which means we’re pitting two watches against each other. This week, Daan defends the recently released Omega Seamaster 37mm Milano Cortina 2026. In the other corner, it’s Thomas with the Chopard L.U.C XPS ref. 61948-5001. That’s right; after the battle of the integrated-bracelet sports watches last week, get […] Visit Sunday Morning Showdown: Omega Seamaster 37mm Milano Cortina 2026 Vs. Chopard L.U.C XPS to read the full article.
Worn & Wound
Watches, Stories, & Gear: H. Moser Opens their First US Boutique, the Friendship Trailer, and a Familiar Face Enters the Watch Industry
“Watches, Stories, and Gear” is a roundup of our favorite content, watch or otherwise, from around the internet. Here, we support other creators, explore interesting content that inspires us, and put a spotlight on causes we believe in. Oh, and any gear we happen to be digging on this week. We love gear. Share your story ideas or interesting finds with us by emailing info@wornandwound.com. Fred Savage Enters the Vintage Watch Verification Game While actor Fred Savage is still mostly associated with his iconic run as Kevin Arnold in The Wonder Years, his stock has risen in recent years within the watch community, coming out as a serious collector, particularly of vintage watches. Now he’s turning that enthusiasm into a new business venture, Timepiece Grading Specialists. The mission of TGS is to provide authentication and valuation services to vintage watch collectors (they’ll also provide services like, well, servicing, and storage, for additional fees), and as this article in the New York Times notes, watches that have passed through TGS have already been sold at auction via Sotheby’s, complete with their TGS assessment. We’ve seen many celebrities embrace the watch community, but few have taken the step of entrepreneurship in the way Savage has, so it will be interesting to see how he fares in the notoriously fraught world of vintage watch authentication. Gary Gets a Suit Several years back, Gary Shteyngart achieved a level of viral fame in the watch co...