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Teddy Baldassarre
This year we saw a lot of interesting watches, but here we wanted to narrow down and focus on 7 brands that were the most interesting. Take a look as we recap the most impressive watches we saw from smaller brands in 2025.
Worn & Wound
Editor’s Note: In addition to being a writer and member of the international watch media community, Bhanu Chopra is also the co-founder of Micro Praha, a regional watch fair in Prague, which just celebrated its third year. We asked Bhanu to share his thoughts on the evolution of the event, as well as some photos from this year’s festivities. Regional watch fairs have been around for several years, but their focus remained mostly mainstream brands and few independent brands. I remember visiting Vienna Time and Munich Time in the mid-2000s, and seeing Lange & Sohne and Habring booths in the same hall. Three years ago, Ondrej Vislocky and I, two watch enthusiasts and friends, took the initiative to create a micro brand watch fair for the Central European region. Prague happens to be in the very heart of Central Europe with easy access to Germany, Austria, Slovakia, Poland, Italy, and even the Nordic countries. It also happens to be the city where we live. We are big fans of micro brands, so we wanted to bring our enthusiasm to Micro Praha. The U.K. has a very active micro indie scene with fairs throughout the year. There are watch fairs in Germany, France, Italy, and Poland, but the participation remains very regional. Micro Praha brings together brands from around the globe. This year 82 brands participated, representing 24 countries, including Germany, France, Italy, Poland, the U.S., Canada, Puerto Rico, Finland, Singapore, Taiwan, Sweden, the U.K., and Czech Republic....
Worn & Wound
While there are many watches inspired by military, naval, or overlanding missions, there are surprisingly few in tribute to firefighting, despite the profession’s propensity for gear and danger. Sure, Sinn makes timepieces in their EZM line for German firefighters to wear into burning buildings, but they’re more utilitarian than conceptual; tool watches rather than tributes. Enter William Wood, a British watchmaker founded by Jonny Garret and named after his late grandfather, who was a decorated firefighter. All of the brand’s pieces are made from upcycled firefighting materials, with portions of the proceeds from each collection benefitting firefighting charities globally. With their newest-and perhaps most eccentric-timepiece, the Vintage Triumph, William Wood continues that legacy. The Vintage Triumph capitalizes on the brawn of the profession it’s inspired by, with a beefy 41mm case diameter. The case itself is gold-plated with both brushed and polished finishes and promises 100 meters of water resistance, should the wearer ever trade fire for its natural opponent. The diamond-cut dial wears a celebratory shade of aged champagne, which is paired with polished gold numerals and a gold bezel with black markers, creating a rather exclamatory visual profile, furthered by the date window at the 6 o’clock position, and the subdials (inspired by fire engine pump gauges) at 3 and 9. Underneath it all is a Sellita SW510 Chronograph movement, which promises a 48-ho...
Monochrome
Armin Strom’s celebrated Gravity Equal Force series expands with an elegant twist, the Ultimate Sapphire Salmon. Continuing the brand’s exploration of colour and transparency, this latest edition pairs technical mastery with artisanal finesse, featuring a hand-guilloché salmon mainplate and the brand’s innovative constant-force calibre, bringing new vibrancy to one of modern horology’s most inventive movements. […]
Hodinkee
An homage to Newson's Ikepod designs from the 90s, paired with the ultra-modern watchmaking of Ressence's oil-filled Type 3, leads to an unabashedly unique collaboration.
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Deployant
We collaborated with Breitling Asia to bring the first ever collector event to Kuching, Malaysia. Here is what went down.
SJX Watches
Seiko pinks out its affordable bestseller with the Seiko 5 Sports SKX Series 38 mm Pink Panther, a tribute to the award-winning animated short staring the vexatious feline. In addition unique dial, bezel, case back, and crown, the 9,999-piece limited edition is delivered in themed packaging along with a pink nylon strap – complete with pink paw prints. Initial thoughts Since its launch in 2019, the Seiko 5 Sports has served as a platform for seemingly countless co-branded limited editions. These collaborations span streetwear labels, anime franchises, consumer brands, artists, and American cartoon characters, from Snoopy to the Pink Panther. The “5KX” base makes commercial sense for such projects, offering the mass appeal of an easy-wearing diver-style watch that remains affordable enough for an impulse buy. While Seiko’s entry-level mechanical watches are arguably not as cost-competitive as they once were given the rise of micro-brands (many of which rely on Seiko-sourced movements), they remain a better value than most mass market watches given the brand’s in-house know-how and storied history. Editions like this Pink Panther model add extra appeal, both in terms of the theme as well as the (relatively) limited run. The Pink Panther The Pink Panther debuted in the 1963 detective comedy film of the same name as an animated embodiment of the titular pink diamond. Created by American animators Hawley Pratt and Friz Freleng, the character soon eclipsed the film its...
SJX Watches
Biver expands its Automatique line with a diverse set of new dials that underscore the brand’s fascination with permanence, ranging from billion-year-old mineral stones to finely executed enamel and traditional guilloché. In a year crowded with stone-dial releases, the latest Automatique models stand out for the coherence of the concept and the quality of execution, offering collectors a mix of exotic materials, artisanal craft, and a technically unusual calibre across a wide price spectrum. Initial thoughts Jean-Claude Biver talks a lot about eternity. The slogan for his namesake brand, “eternity has no competition”, is an eloquent expression of what drives the Biver family enterprise, founded with his son Pierre and now led by chief executive James Marks. Beyond the ability to keep time, mechanical watches appeal to enthusiasts precisely because they seem to exist outside of time. Few modern products are crafted from such noble or enduring materials, and for many people a mechanical watch is among the most lasting man-made objects they will ever encounter. Biver’s obsession with eternity is clear in the products themselves. In the case of the Automatique, the brand has chosen to use especially long-lasting materials like gold for the movement plates and bridges, going so far as to used a high-palladium gold alloy that will not tarnish over time. The overly robust cases are another clue as to the motivations of the people behind the Biver brand. Water resistant t...
Teddy Baldassarre
The watch enthusiast community has a way with nicknames, especially when it comes to Rolex. While the Crown has never embraced the proliferation of highly specified pet-names for its most popular models outright, it is a helpful shorthand for quickly differentiating between references. Especially if you, like me, have difficulty pulling reference numbers off the top of your head. We’ve already covered some of the other mean green makes from the Crown in depth, like the Rolex Hulk and the Submariner Starbucks. Today, we’re going to be wading into the weeds of the Submariner, nicknamed after the world’s most famous frog, and getting into the nitty-gritty of how it came to be, and how to differentiate it from other similar-hued Rolex watches. [toc-section heading="Context and History"] Image: Bonhams While the history of Rolex’s most iconic can be traced back to the early 1950s, the story of the “Submariner” Kermit is a much more contemporary one. If you’re in the mood for a more in-depth historical lesson, I will refer you now to our complete guide to the Submariner here. This leg of our journey starts in 2003, a major anniversary year for the Rolex Sub. As watchmakers are wont to do, the Crown decided to celebrate the 50th birthday of the Submariner with a special anniversary edition. In a playful move that polarized the purist collectors, Rolex debuted the Submariner reference 16610LV, which was differentiated most obviously by its bright green bezel. Th...
Worn & Wound
It’s pretty uncommon for a watch line to maintain top-of-mind relevance with the watch community for more than a couple of years. Trends change, the hype spotlight shifts, and newness becomes necessary. We’ve seen brands try to push watches past their expiration points, resulting in diminished excitement and inevitably disappointing. With that said, one line that has endured far longer than I would have expected and is still going strong is the Tissot PRX. Launched in 2021, the PRX was an early entry into the affordable integrated sports watch category, which has also lasted longer than I would have bet. Yet despite being “several” years old, Tissot continues to surprise with updates to the PRX line, keeping it genuinely exciting. Smartly, they haven’t just used it as a throwback line, but rather to experiment with materials that typically come with a higher price tag. Notably, last year they made a forged carbon-fiber version that was lightweight and stealthy. While a material that had come downstream, so to speak, in the years prior, it was still unexpected from Tissot. But 2025’s entry wasn’t just surprising for Tissot; it was surprising for any large-scale brand, especially an affordable one. If you told me I’d be wearing a Damascus steel Tissot that cost $1,175 a few years ago, I would have said, “shut your face!” Just kidding, but I would have been immensely skeptical. An artisanal material, often seen in knife making, it’s scarcely used in watc...
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Monochrome
frederiqueconstant.timeandtidewatches.comFounded in 1988, Frederique Constant has gone from strength to strength with its policy of high-quality watches at affordable prices. Far from an empty catchphrase, the brand’s “accessible luxury” slogan materialised with the release of a perpetual calendar, followed by a tourbillon and a QP in steel, all with unbelievably restrained price tags. In 2020, […]
Time+Tide
Our first collaborative watch with Frederique Constant introduces a string of exciting firsts from the brand (and for us, too!)The post Our Frederique Constant x Time+Tide Highlife Moonphase Manufacture Onyx Moon is a benchmark built on firsts appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Two Broke Watch Snobs
We’ve tested both of these iconic military watches to break down design, build, and military-grade toughness.
Monochrome
Since 2015, The Limited Edition, a British retailer founded by Pietro Tomajer, has been a champion of independent watchmaking, celebrating individuality, craftsmanship, and creative freedom. In the past, the Limited Edition collaborations included watches made with Armin Strom, Vianney Halter, Kudoke, Garrick, and many other independents. To mark its 10th anniversary, the UK-based retailer has […]
SJX Watches
Konstantin Chaykin’s signature Wristmon has taken an unexpected twist with the Venus. Inspired by The Birth of Venus, Botticelli’s famous Renaissance painting, the wristwatch is modelled on the goddess Venus emerging from the sea, nude with flowing hair. Like the Wristmons, Venus tells the time with rotating discs, except the discs no longer represent the eyes. Appropriately, the Venus prototype will be sold in at auction on December 11, with all proceeds going to LILT Milano Monza Brianza, an Italian charity dedicated to preventing breast cancer. Initial thoughts The Wristmon is now a familiar concept, maybe too familiar. Venus is a clever twist on the idea; it’s essentially identical in terms of function, yet entirely different in look and theme. The Venus is also relatively subtle, despite the highly exposed central theme. At the same time, the Venus fits into a historical category of watches. In some ways it’s a variant of the tradition erotic watch, which existed in pocket watches and also modern wristwatches. The case of the Venus is also a bit more graceful than the average Wristmon. It has flowing lines and more importantly, only one crown, instead of the two for most Wristmon models. In short, I like the Venus. It is a smart new direction for the Russian watchmaker’s signature concept. Goddess on the dial Like the Wristmons, Venus indicates the time regulator-style. Hours and minutes are each indicated on rotating discs, while the “face” forms the ...
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Monochrome
With its 5 Sports collection, the brand’s accessible range that comprises almost infinite styles, Seiko isn’t shy of creating bold models and teaming up with unexpected partners. Recently, we’ve seen models inspired by Bruce Lee, Peanuts or Mooneys. There was even a pair of Pepsi-bezel watches made with… Pepsi! Now, the Seiko 5 Sports SKX […]
If you’re tired of gifting the same old “this-made-me-think-of-you” mug with a quote, Hamilton is once again stepping in to save your season. Our annual Holiday Gift Guide with this classic brand is back and it’s giving a whole lot of enthusiast charm, character, and just the right amount of cinematic sparkle. This year’s lineup celebrates five standout timepieces, each matched to a distinct persona in your family or immediate circle of friends. Think of this as your shortcut to giving a gift that actually feels thoughtfully chosen vs. that last-minute pick up. The post The 2025 Hamilton Gift Guide: Four Iconic Watches, One Holiday Pop-Up appeared first on Worn & Wound.
Worn & Wound
While the Eastern and Northern regions of the country start tucking their roadsters, cruisers, and drifters away in garages for the winter, West Coast car enthusiasts throw on some scarves and sweaters and keep the party going well through November and beyond. This month, I took my 1983 Volvo 240 DL to two shows, both of which touted an enormously diverse range of vehicles, people, and stories. The first show is a regular event that many Bay Area car freaks have come to cherish as a curated but laid-back treasure of a show, with an incredible backdrop. Held once a month right next to the beautiful Frank Lloyd Wright-designed Marin Civic Center in San Rafael, the Pre-Stage Automotive Gathering, run by the ever-creative folks at Breakfast Club Rally and catered by Red Whale Coffee, brings hundreds of people and dozens of cars together for an early morning gathering that feels as welcoming as possible, every single time. At each Pre-Stage, a themed section makes up the front of the lot; this month’s choice was pre-2000 BMW M cars, which always creates a buzz of fanaticism and Instagram opportunity. E30s and E36s (and a handful of their predecessors) battled for photogenic supremacy and attracted the gazes of wishful-thinking teenagers and wistful old timers alike. The rest of the lot is open to all, and BCR really does mean all. My Volvo was joined by several other Swedish bricks, Mercedes coupes from the 1950s onwards, more Porsche 911 generations than you can keep a...
SJX Watches
The beginning of 2025 marked the 350th anniversary of the hairspring, the invention that made portable precision timekeeping possible. To commemorate the occasion, we published a series of deep dives covering the disputes around its invention, the evolution of spring materials over the years and the finer rules of forming Breguet overcoils. This final instalment examines isochronism. Some initial definitions and considerations A proper and universal definition of isochronism is: the property of an oscillatory system to maintain the same period of vibration despite variation in environmental factors. This implies that a vibrational system’s behaviour is inherent and external factors should not influence its frequency. A few basic terms help frame the discussion. The period, measured in seconds, is the time taken for the oscillator to travel from one extreme position, through equilibrium, and back again. Frequency, measured in Hertz, is the inverse of the period; a system with a constant period can serve as a stable timebase. The amplitude is the distance swept by the oscillator from the equilibrium point to its extreme position. In practical terms, when saying that a sprung balance has an amplitude of 330°, it means the balance wheel rotates a full 330° in one direction from its equilibrium point before swinging back. Figure I. Anatomy of a sinusoidal wave. In watchmaking parlance, isochronism means that an oscillator keeps the same period, regardless of its amplit...
The Bremont Supermarine 500m Polar feels tailor-made for a holiday escape to the woods, starring an icy dial that echoes fresh snow, paired with the sort of rugged dependability you want when you’ve traded city noise for crackling logs and cold morning air. Its crisp, high-contrast aesthetic is unfussy and calming, the visual equivalent of that first deep breath you take after settling into a quiet, wood-paneled retreat. Whether you’re strumming a guitar by the fire or stepping out for a morning hike through frost-covered pines, the Supermarine 500m Polar is exactly the kind of companion you want on your wrist. Its 43mm case crafted from corrosion-resistant 904L stainless steel shrugs off bumps from thrown-together gear and cabin chores, while the robust 500 meters of water resistance gives you the confidence to take on whatever the terrain and weather decide to throw your way. This is a tool watch in its element… comfortable, capable, and never demanding attention. The post Holiday Lookbook: Cabin Couture Essentials with Bremont’s Supermarine 500m Polar appeared first on Worn & Wound.
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Worn & Wound
There’s something strangely fitting about a new Timex collaboration with Toddy Snyder dropping this month in the form of the new Olive Marlin seen here. The Marlin, in its current form, is frequently described as being inspired by the style of the Mad Men era. The AMC series started many menswear trends and the archives of sites like ours and many watch and menswear forums are ripe with stories about Mad Men’s watches, how to achieve the Don Draper look, and so on. Mad Men is on my mind right now though not because of the release of this new piece from Timex, but because of the quite hysterical gaffe made by someone at HBO Max, who inadvertently put up uncut and unedited versions of the show when it made its HBO Max streaming premiere on the first of the month. This was supposed to be a big moment for the debut of the new 4K scans of the show, but instead, everyone is talking about a puke hose. I’m not the biggest Mad Men guy out there, but I like the show well enough, and I watched a few of my favorite episodes over the weekend to test the waters on a full rewatch. Maybe I’ll report back on that, at some point. For now, I can say that the style of the show (not just the clothes, but entire production design) remains just about perfect at evoking a very specific era, and the watches always played a major role in that. The Marlin would have felt right at home on this set. For this new Todd Snyder collaboration, the dial has been given a coat of the designer’s ...
Two Broke Watch Snobs
Looking for a tough, affordable beater watch? We reviewed the best under $300 with real-world wear tests, accuracy checks, and pros and cons to guide your pick.
SJX Watches
On 27 April 1927 a nurse walked into a room at the Cleveland Clinic carrying a leather case. The patient was sixty-four, a section of skull removed, the ache of radiation still working behind his eyes. On the charts he appeared as James Ward Packard, co-founder of Packard Electric and Packard Motor Car Company. To the nurse he was a difficult case. To Geneva he remained the client for whom Patek Philippe had just completed movement number 198’023, an astronomical watch that had absorbed three years of calculation and bench work. James Ward Packard. Image – Lehigh University Photograph Collection Inside the case lay a carillon minute repeater on three gongs, coupled to a full perpetual calendar with moon phase, equation of time, and sunrise and sunset indications calculated for Warren, Ohio. On the reverse, a deep blue sky disk carried five hundred and twelve gold stars, turning at sidereal speed around a small Polaris. The sky above his birthplace had been compressed into a circle of lapis and gold, moving in his hands as it moved above the town where he had been born, built factories, endowed an engineering laboratory, and which he now understood lay beyond any realistic hope of return. Consolation held little appeal for him. Packard placed his trust in precision, in the ability to describe a situation so exactly that it became bearable. The watch answered a question he had circled since childhood: if the world always exceeds your grasp, can you still know, to the min...
SJX Watches
Earlier this year F.P. Journe unveiled its most daring jewellery watch yet, the Tourbillon Souverain Vertical Joaillerie Rubis, set with the largest baguette rubies ever used in watchmaking. Despite the current popularity of high jewellery watches, the Tourbillon Souverain Vertical Joaillerie (TVJ) Rubis is an audacious undertaking that required eight years to accumulate the right gemstones – and the destruction of 61 carats of gem-quality rubies to make this single watch. Initial thoughts Haute joaillerie watches of this sort are not new; the 1980s and 1990s saw significant demand for gem-set complicated watches, especially in Asia. But Over the last decade such watches have shifted from niche offerings to an important (and resilient) pillar of the business for many brands. Coloured stones are seeing marked interest too, as a sort of trend within a trend, as exemplified by Rolex’s “Rainbow” Daytona, one of the brand’s hottest models. Patek Philippe’s 2022 launch of the gem-set Grandmaster Chime trio can also be seen as a milestone for the genre, with one of Geneva’s flagship fine watchmaking brands adorning its flagship watch with diamonds, emeralds and sapphires. A unique Piaguet minute repeating pocket watch that’s a fine example of 1990s gem-setting high horology But with the TVJ, it’s clear that F.P. Journe is not simply following industry trends – this watch is eight years in the making and belongs to a two-decade tradition of high jewellery tour...
SJX Watches
Pocket watches were the main driver of value at Sotheby’s New York auction that just concluded today. The four most valuable lots of the sale were three pocket watches and one clock, totalling over US$16 million with fees. Notably, all four were accrued by the late Robert M. Olmsted over more than six decades, along with numerous other pocket watches in the sale. In all the Olmsted Collection brought over US$20 million, underling the late Olmsted’s discerning eye. The top lot was the most complicated watch ever made by Audemars Piguet, dubbed “Grosse Pièce” for its size. The oversized watch set a record for the brand, selling for just over US$7.7 million including fees. It seemed a rising tide lifted all boats as many other pocket watches in the sale, including those from brands with little cachet today, blew past their high estimates. The big results included a 1930s school watch with a flying tourbillon by German watchmaker Heinz Eberhard that sold for US$355,600 and an oversized tourbillon clockwatch by Charles Frodsham that sold for US$1.12 million. Interestingly, many of these pocket watches went to the same paddle. Patek Philippe The “Grosse Pièce” wasn’t the first timepiece in the sale to clear seven figures. That distinction went to lot 32, a previously unknown Patek Philippe paperweight desk clock made for Thomas Emery, which sold for US$2.73 million. It is one of only three known Patek Philippe desk clocks of this type, with the other two – made...
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