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Annual Calendar

Patek's 1996 invention; handles 30- and 31-day months but needs one manual correction per year.

Breitling Celebrates Its 140th Anniversary With A Trio Of Gold Flagship Watches Fratello
Breitling Celebrates Aug 29, 2024

Breitling Celebrates Its 140th Anniversary With A Trio Of Gold Flagship Watches

This past June, Breitling invited me to its Chronometrie facility in La Chaux-de-Fonds, Switzerland. The tour offered an opportunity to see the various Breitling manufacture calibers in different production states. The meticulous yet efficient nature of the assembly leads to a robust and reliable B01 chronograph movement along with modules for calendar and GMT functions. […] Visit Breitling Celebrates Its 140th Anniversary With A Trio Of Gold Flagship Watches to read the full article.

First Look – The Vacheron Constantin Métiers d’Art The Legend of the Chinese Zodiac – Year of the Snake Monochrome
Vacheron Constantin Métiers d’Art Aug 28, 2024

First Look – The Vacheron Constantin Métiers d’Art The Legend of the Chinese Zodiac – Year of the Snake

Coinciding with Watches & Wonders Shanghai, Vacheron Constantin gets a head start on the 2025 Chinese New Year and releases two limited editions celebrating the Year of the Snake. An annual tradition now for the past 12 years, the brand’s richly decorated Chinese Zodiac pieces not only pay homage to China’s cultural traditions but highlight […]

First Look – The Updated IWC Portugieser Yacht Club Moon & Tide, the First IWC with a Silicon Hairspring Monochrome
Casio n Aug 28, 2024

First Look – The Updated IWC Portugieser Yacht Club Moon & Tide, the First IWC with a Silicon Hairspring

This year, IWC brings the emblematic Portugieser collection under the spotlight, introducing several stunning new additions to the collection, including the impressive Eternal Calendar and updates to several iconic models, such as the chronograph and the 7-day Automatic. On the occasion of Watches and Wonders Shanghai, the brand unveils a new version of its Portugieser […]

Introducing – Four New Blancpain Villeret References with Sunburst Green Dials Monochrome
Blancpain Villeret References Aug 27, 2024

Introducing – Four New Blancpain Villeret References with Sunburst Green Dials

The Villeret Collection of Blancpain comprises the brand’s most classic and elegant timepieces. They offer a wide range of functions, from the basic time-only models to more complex complications like the minute repeater, perpetual calendar, dual-time zone, chronograph, and more. Recognizable by their distinctive double-stepped case design, these watches are a testament to aesthetic excellence. […]

Hands-On: The Grand Seiko SLGW003 “Birch Bark” Titanium Fratello
Grand Seiko SLGW003 “Birch Bark” Titanium Aug 8, 2024

Hands-On: The Grand Seiko SLGW003 “Birch Bark” Titanium

As a brand, Grand Seiko doesn’t exactly skimp on annual new releases. Of course, many of the latest watches are dial variants, so we take extra notice when a completely new model debuts. The titanium SLGW003 “Birch Bark” was introduced earlier this year, and now we’ve had the chance to put it through its paces. […] Visit Hands-On: The Grand Seiko SLGW003 “Birch Bark” Titanium to read the full article.

MeisterSinger Special №3 Edition Brings Stylish New Accents to the Collection Two Broke Watch Snobs
MeisterSinger Aug 6, 2024

MeisterSinger Special №3 Edition Brings Stylish New Accents to the Collection

MeisterSinger, famous for its single-hand display, continues to iterate on its signature design. Despite the limitation of a single-hand movement, the German brand has proven to be very creative and versatile. Since 2001, MeisterSinger has pleased watch enthusiasts with calendar functions, chiming mechanisms, jumping hours, power reserves, and more, all in its own style. This month MeisterSinger is back with the Special Edition №3 watches and bright blue accents.

Introducing – The New MeisterSinger Special ?3 Bright Blue Edition Monochrome
MeisterSinger Aug 6, 2024

Introducing – The New MeisterSinger Special ?3 Bright Blue Edition

MeisterSinger has made the single-hand time display its signature design feature, which some might view as limiting creativity. However, this German company has consistently proven otherwise. Since 2001, MeisterSinger has introduced various exciting series that incorporate calendar functions, chiming mechanisms, jumping hour displays, and power reserves, all while preserving the brand’s original spirit. Furthermore, MeisterSinger […]

Introducing – The Breathtaking Elegance of the Andersen Genève Jumping Hours Black Jade Stone Monochrome
Jul 31, 2024

Introducing – The Breathtaking Elegance of the Andersen Genève Jumping Hours Black Jade Stone

Master watchmaker Svend Andersen has been a renowned figure on the independent watchmaking scene since 1980. The Danish watchmaker’s ingenious and original approach to complications, including his sophisticated calendar watches and world timers, has captivated collectors and top-tier watch brands for years. To celebrate his 40th anniversary in watchmaking in 2020, Svend Andersen produced a […]

Moser’s Latest Perpetual is Minimalist and Purple Fired Enamel SJX Watches
H. Moser & Cie Jul 15, 2024

Moser’s Latest Perpetual is Minimalist and Purple Fired Enamel

H. Moser & Cie. is marking the 70th anniversary of its retailer in Southeast Asia with the Pioneer Perpetual Calendar Concept MD Purple Enamel Sincere Platinum Jubilee Edition. The first model in the Pioneer line to feature an enamel dial, this is also Moser’s inaugural venture into a grand feu enamel dial in purple fumé, which is translucent, smoked, and executed on an engraved dial base. It’s matched with a two-colour case of 18k red gold with titanium inserts treated with black diamond-like carbon (DLC), containing the manual-wind in-house HMC 808 movement that offers seven days of power reserve and more importantly, the brand’s innovative and concise perpetual calendar mechanism. Initial thoughts The new Pioneer perpetual it showcases typical Moser aesthetics and craft in a restrained style, with the details only apparent up close. At a distance the perpetual calendar is barely discernible with the dial having only the month and date along with two tiny pointers. But the purple flinqué enamel dial is stunning up close, with the textured surface showing through the translucent enamel. And the combination of the Pioneer case that’s rated to 120 m along with the fired enamel dial is unusual, giving the semi-sporty model a more refined aspect. Leaving aside the aesthetics, the watch is notable for the HMC 808 movement, still one of the cleverest perpetual calendar movements on the market two decades after its introduction. The case back is etched with the Sincer...

Parties, Panels, and Pizza! All the Events During Windup Chicago 2024 Worn & Wound
Jul 9, 2024

Parties, Panels, and Pizza! All the Events During Windup Chicago 2024

This time next week we will be recovering from another exciting Chicago Windup Watch Fair full of great memories from our third annual trip to the Windy City. With over 60 brands showcasing the latest and greatest in watch releases from around the globe, we’d understand if you have already put together your plan of brands to visit during your time at Venue West. Update those plans because the Windup Lineup of Panels and events just dropped! As a reminder for those unfamiliar with Windup Chicago 2024, here are the key details for this free and open to the public event. Venue West – 221 N Paulina St, Chicago, IL 60612 Friday, July 12: 12PM – 6PM Saturday, July 13: 12PM – 6PM Sunday, July 14: 12PM – 5PM Free and open to the public Free parking available across the street from the venue As always, we work closely with our editorial team and our Lead Sponsors to craft engaging panels for audiences to get even deeper looks into the wonderful world of watches. We always make sure to include a bit of time for Q&A; as well. Beyond panels, be sure to stay around the venue for meetups, happy hours, and extra surprises to come throughout the weekend. Take a look below at the schedule and be sure to join Worn & Wound+, our free Slack community to get the latest and greatest Windup news over the weekend.  Thursday, July 11, 2024 Chicago Windup Watch Fair Opening Reception 6:00 PM – 8:00 PM *MUST RSVP TO ATTEND* To celebrate Windup’s return to the Windy City, we’ve teamed...

Blancpain Introduces Bathyscaphe with Ceramic Bracelet SJX Watches
Blancpain Introduces Bathyscaphe Jul 5, 2024

Blancpain Introduces Bathyscaphe with Ceramic Bracelet

Blancpain just unveiled an all-ceramic bracelet to match the Fifty Fathoms Bathyscaphe models in black ceramic: the time-and-date, flyback chronograph, and Quantième Complet (or triple calendar). Positioned as the entry-level model in the Fifty Fathom collection of historically-inspired dive watches, the Bathyscaphe has long been available in ceramic, so a bracelet is long overdue. According to Blancpain, each link of the bracelet unique in shape and size, so each link has to be manufactured individually, requiring an enormous amount of skilled labour – which helps to explain the price of almost US$8,000 for the bracelet. All three are now available with a matching bracelet Initial thoughts Though it was a pioneer in the dive watch as we know it, the Blancpain Fifty Fathoms has remained fairly under the radar, despite its relatively strong price-quality ratio. The ceramic bracelet for the Bathyscaphe helps it stand out, as few brands offer a matching bracelet for ceramic watches. While ceramic watch cases are common and found across the price spectrum, ceramic bracelets remain relatively uncommon, especially bracelets that are hand finished with a brushed surface like this. All links are manufactured individually, with each link differing in shape and size The ceramic bracelet is expensive – it costs just under US$8,000 extra compared to the same on a strap. That means the three-hand diver costs US$21,300, while the flyback chronograph and triple calendar are both US$...

No Spoilers! Preview the Watches of Windup Watch Fair Chicago 2024 Worn & Wound
Christopher Ward Citizen Fortis G-Shock Jul 3, 2024

No Spoilers! Preview the Watches of Windup Watch Fair Chicago 2024

After two fantastic Windup Watch Fairs in New York and San Francisco, it is almost time to return to Chicago! Whether you’re attending the third annual Windup Watch Fair in Chicago or you’ll be observing from afar (@wornandwound on Instagram), the event is free and open to the public thanks in large part to our lead sponsors: Christopher Ward, Citizen, Fortis, G-Shock, and Oris. These brands continue to walk the walk around building a strong enthusiast community. They also make great watches.  Venue West – 221 N Paulina St, Chicago, IL 60612 Friday, July 12: 12PM – 6PM Saturday, July 13: 12PM – 6PM Sunday, July 14: 12PM – 5PM Free and open to the public Head to the Product Showcase on the Windup Watch Fair site to see and shop even more of the great watches that will be on display this year in Chicago. With the Fair a little over a week away, we have another fantastic showcase of brands from around the globe and local to Chicago. Below, check out some highlight pieces our Lead Sponsors have been focusing on this year.  Like any good preview, don’t be surprised if some of them have even more to offer when the fair arrives. Christopher Ward Christopher Ward is an Anglo-Swiss watchmaker with a simple aim: to put premium quality watches within the reach of everyone. Founded in 2004, the company prides itself on combining traditional Swiss watchmaking techniques with contemporary English design. Models like the Bel Canto, Trident, Sealander, and The Twelve are a...

Business New: Louis Ferla Appointed CEO of Cartier SJX Watches
Vacheron Constantin since 2017 – during Jul 2, 2024

Business New: Louis Ferla Appointed CEO of Cartier

Capping several months of rumours, Richemont has just announced the appointment of Louis Ferla as the chief executive of Cartier. Having been in charge of Vacheron Constantin since 2017 – during which its annual sales tripled to about €1 billion – Mr Ferla succeeds Cyrille Vigneron, who is retiring after eight years at the top of the jewel in Richemont’s crown. This news comes just weeks after Nicolas Bos was named chief executive of Richemont, the Swiss luxury group that also owns brands like Van Cleef & Arpels and IWC. Mr Bos was the longtime chief executive of Van Cleef & Arpels and will be replaced by Catherine Rénier, who’s been running Jaeger-LeCoultre since 2018. Elevating VC Officially assuming the coveted top job at Cartier on September 1, Mr Ferla has been with Richemont since 2001 when he joined Alfred Dunhill, before moving to Cartier in 2006 where he rose to International Director of Clients and Business. His tenure at Vacheron Constantin saw the brand increase both its sales and margins as the brand trimmed its retail network to focus on in-house boutiques, while also boosting its offerings of high-end, one-off Les Cabinotiers timepieces. Vacheron Constantin has yet to announce Mr Ferla’s replacement, but his deputy, chief commercial officer Laurent Perves, will step up as the interim chief executive. Mr Ferla’s name became the subject of conversations in the industry at end 2022, when it emerged he was one of the candidates to succeed Francois...

In-Depth: The MB&F; LM Perpetual and Stephen McDonnell’s Innovation SJX Watches
Patek Philippe ref 1526 Jun 19, 2024

In-Depth: The MB&F; LM Perpetual and Stephen McDonnell’s Innovation

When it comes to perpetual calendars – perhaps the most objectively useful complication – the MB&F; Legacy Machine Perpetual, or LM QP for short, sits neatly between classical architecture and iconoclastic construction. Now almost a decade old having been launched in 2015, the LM QP is a mechanical marvel coming from the mind of Stephen McDonnell. The LM QP’s beauty lies in Mr McDonnell’s rethinking of the perpetual calendar complication while integrating historical concepts. Rethinking the QP A perpetual calendar, or quantième perpétuel (hence “QP”), is a complex and layered mechanism, which makes it a challenging complication to implement in watches. Naturally, not all perpetual calendars are created equal, some being more innovative and others more classical in their construction. The first-ever serially produced perpetual calendar wristwatch, the Patek Philippe ref. 1526 that debuted in 1940; the basics of the perpetual calendar mechanism would remain largely unchanged for decades after The issue with classical calendar constructions is their vulnerability to wear and tear, shock, or careless operation by the user. Ironically, the most forward-thinking of perpetual calendar mechanisms try to solve these problems, but sometimes suffer from reliability issues rooted in the radical concepts employed. Mr McDonnell’s construction of the LM QP smartly manages to eliminate traditional weaknesses while avoiding new problems. The result is a reliable and innovati...

The Oris Hölstein Edition 2024: An All-Blacked-Out Divers Sixty-Five Fratello
Casio n - Oris’s 120th Jun 1, 2024

The Oris Hölstein Edition 2024: An All-Blacked-Out Divers Sixty-Five

Oris Hölstein Editions are an annual celebration for the independent Swiss watch brand. This year marks a rather special occasion - Oris’s 120th anniversary. To celebrate this impressive birthday, the house is releasing a special Divers Sixty-Five, fully dipped in black paint. Okay, technically speaking, it’s not really black paint. But we do get a […] Visit The Oris Hölstein Edition 2024: An All-Blacked-Out Divers Sixty-Five to read the full article.

Introducing: The Jaeger-LeCoultre Polaris Geographic - A Characteristic Complication Surfaces Fratello
Jaeger-LeCoultre Polaris Geographic - May 21, 2024

Introducing: The Jaeger-LeCoultre Polaris Geographic - A Characteristic Complication Surfaces

The contemporary Jaeger-LeCoultre Polaris debuted six years ago. Since then, new variations have emerged, including a chronograph, a perpetual calendar, and the Mariner Memovox alarm model. But a multi-time-zone version was missing from the revived lineup - until today. The Polaris Geographic is a travel watch with one of Jaeger-LeCoultre’s signature complications. One glance at […] Visit Introducing: The Jaeger-LeCoultre Polaris Geographic - A Characteristic Complication Surfaces to read the full article.

In-Depth: Patek Philippe Grand Complication with Double Split-Chronographs Ref. 767 SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Grand Complication May 16, 2024

In-Depth: Patek Philippe Grand Complication with Double Split-Chronographs Ref. 767

One of the most fascinating timepieces in Phillips’ upcoming Hong Kong auction is the Patek Philippe grand complication pocket watch ref. 767. Made in 1950 and sold in 1952, this one-of-a-kind pocket watch boasts a minute repeater, perpetual calendar, and double split-seconds chronograph. More accurately, it is a mono-pusher, double split-seconds, or even triple-split seconds. This ref. 767 features not two, but three, chronograph seconds hands. As a result, it can simultaneously measure three elapsed times of up to one minute. The complication is possibly unique amongst Patek Philippe watches. A historically significant watch in itself, this ref. 767 also has notable provenance: it once belonged to Seth Atwood, the American industrialist who founded the now-closed Time Museum. According to Philips, this ref. 767 was Atwood’s everyday watch, not surprising since he was a legendary collector of his day with a collection that included the Patek Philippe Graves Supercomplication and the Duc d’Orléans Breguet Sympathique. Three seconds hands, two in blued steel and one in gold Initial thoughts I’ve been impressed by many pocket watches – some that come to include a Patek Philippe observatory tourbillon and the Philippe Dufour Grande Sonnerie – but I’ve rarely been surprised. This ref. 767 was, however, entirely unexpected. When it was first described to me, I was confused and immediately thought of the Lange Double Split. But as it turns out, this is entirely d...

Tudor Celebrates the Start of the Giro d’Italia with a Cycling Themed Pelagos FXD Chronograph Worn & Wound
Tudor Celebrates May 4, 2024

Tudor Celebrates the Start of the Giro d’Italia with a Cycling Themed Pelagos FXD Chronograph

Tudor has released a new watch in their growing Pelagos FXD collection with the Pelagos FXD Chrono “Cycling Edition.” The new watch borrows a formula from last year’s FXD releases tied to the Alinghi Red Bull Racing, but this time the focus is on Tudor’s own cycling team, which makes their debut in the Giro d’Italia this weekend. The Giro d’Italia is one of the most important cycling races on the competitive calendar, and this new chronograph has a handful of little touches that might make it particularly appealing to fans of the sport. It strikes many of the same chords, though, as last year’s Alinghi releases, and could point to a new and developing strategy within Tudor in how they work with athletic partners.  At a high level, this is essentially the same watch as the Alinghi FXD chronograph. They share the same 43mm black carbon composite case and run on the same MT5813 chronometer certified movement. The differences, of course, come in the details. The new Cycling Edition watch features a black dial with plenty of red accents, a nod to the colors of the Tudor cycling team. And rather than a rotating dive bezel like the one on last year’s chrono, here we get a fixed 60 minute bezel.  The most interesting change, and I think the one that will have hardcore cyclists most excited, is a tachymeter scale that has been designed with cycling specific intervals in mind. Virtually every other tachymeter scale on modern sports watches is designed to measure th...

All of the New Portugiesers from IWC Worn & Wound
Rolex Apr 23, 2024

All of the New Portugiesers from IWC

One of the prevailing narratives to come out of Watches & Wonders 2024 was that it was, across the board, a pretty quiet year. That may have been true for some, but others, like IWC, came to play. A good portion of the attention IWC got this year was (justifiably) directed at the new Portugieser Eternal Calendar that Zach Kazan introduced a few weeks ago, but that watch was far from the only Portugieser IWC brought to Geneva this year. The Portugieser is not the first watch that springs to mind for most of us when contemplating IWC - far more likely would be some sort of Pilot’s Watch or, more recently, the Ingenieur - but it has been, at times subtly, possibly the most important collection in the IWC catalog. I know so many collectors for whom the Portugieser was their first nice watch, and it is a model I continue to see in the wild, especially in cities like New York or London where people still routinely wear suits to work. IWC, like Rolex, is a brand that prefers evolution over revolution when it comes to its designs - one only has to look at the slow transformation of the Pilot’s Watch for evidence of that. The last few years have seen the brand slowly tinkering with the Portugieser line, bringing it up to date and refining what was already a great watch to make it better. This year, they continued that process and introduced a slew of new models and colorways, all of which come together to make up possibly the best lineup of Portugiesers ever assembled. Co...

A Visit to Patek Philippe Rare Handcrafts 2024 SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Rare Handcrafts 2024 Just Apr 22, 2024

A Visit to Patek Philippe Rare Handcrafts 2024

Just ahead of the public unveiling on April 13, Patek Philippe debuted 82-strong Rare Handcrafts 2024 collection at its Geneva salon during Watches & Wonders. Made up of Dome Clocks, pocket watches, and wristwatches, it is the largest such release in the brand’s history. Unlike the most recent Rare Handcrafts collection that was country-specific, the 2024 collection continues with the typical diversity of the annual line-up with motifs as varied as the techniques used to render them. While natural themes figure prominently, less traditional themes like classic American automobiles and surfers, like the Calatrava ref. 5089G-129 “Morning on the Beach” (pictured above), are explored as well. While only a subset of the 82-piece collection is on display at the Patek Philippe Salon – and open to the public till April 27 – a few pieces stand out from the rest. Calatrava ref. 5089G-148 “American Beauties”, one of several depicting 1950s American cars Dome Clocks One of the themes of the 2024 collection is “Gardens of the World,” and among the most striking is the Dome Clock ref. 20151M-001 English Garden. Decorated with cloisonné enamel that contains nearly 50 m of gold wire, the English Garden offers a charming composition featuring a stately home in the country. Dome Clock ref. 20151M-001 English Garden Dome Clock ref. 20151M-001 English Garden Patek Philippe also drew inspiration from across the pond, with American themes featuring prominently. Among this sub...