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Results for Automatic Winding

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Automatic Winding

Self-winding via rotor: Perrelet 1777, Harwood 1922, Rolex Perpetual 1931, micro-rotor 1955.

A Look At Miyota’s 8-Series Movements For Microbrands Fratello
Citizen s Miyota operation Feb 13, 2024

A Look At Miyota’s 8-Series Movements For Microbrands

Last year, Thomas gave an introduction to Citizen’s Miyota operation, with a focus on the Miyota 9-series movements and their use in many microbrands we are familiar with. The consensus is that this popular family of automatic calibers offers plenty in terms of specifications, variety, customization, and value. Today, I’m looking at the 8-series movements, […] Visit A Look At Miyota’s 8-Series Movements For Microbrands to read the full article.

Konstantin Chaykin Wristmon with In-House Micro-Rotor Movement SJX Watches
Konstantin Chaykin Feb 12, 2024

Konstantin Chaykin Wristmon with In-House Micro-Rotor Movement

To inaugurate its first-ever in-house automatic movement, Konstantin Chaykin created the Wristmon Zebra Piece Unique, a one-off based on the brand’s signature best-seller. Though it retains the familiar “rolling eye” time display, the Zebra is equipped with the K.33-3, a newly-developed automatic movement with a micro-rotor. Initial thoughts Ever since the launch of the Joker, Konstantin Chaykin has continued to iterate on the Wristmon with its amusing “rolling eye” display. While the Zebra might look like more of the same, it is notable for having an all-new, in-house movement, which replaces the ETA and Vaucher movements that powered past Wristmon models. Mr Chaykin has long hinted that a workhorse in-house movement was in the works, an endeavour that was probably accelerated by the difficulty of sourcing components from outside Russia due to the ongoing war and resulting sanctions. With the launch of the K.33-3, Konstantin Chaykin becomes one of the few independent watchmakers with its own self-winding movement, let alone an automatic calibre with a micro-rotor. The K.33-3 is basic in terms of aesthetics and certain specifications, but it is a feat to be applauded, particularly for Mr Chaykin given the relatively scarcity of specialist suppliers close to him. The Zebra is a one-off conceived to debut the new calibre, but we can expect more watches with the K.33-3 in the future. And if Mr Chaykin retains the same pricing for the new models with an in-house mov...

First Look – The Dazzling Gem-Set Zenith Chronomaster Sport Monochrome
Zenith Chronomaster Sport Any serious Feb 12, 2024

First Look – The Dazzling Gem-Set Zenith Chronomaster Sport

Any serious watch buff is familiar with the story of Zenith’s El Primero high-frequency automatic chronograph calibre of 1969. Fast-forward to the 21st century, and Zenith’s iconic movement ticks on thanks to upgrades and ever-higher frequencies to track elapsed times. A variant of the brand’s famous Zenith Chronomaster – itself a descendant of the iconic […]

Creativity Takes Center Stage with the Seiko Power Design Project Worn & Wound
Seiko Power Design Project From Jan 30, 2024

Creativity Takes Center Stage with the Seiko Power Design Project

From creating the world’s first automatic chronograph to creating the first quartz watch, Seiko is known for its cutting edge and revolutionary timepieces. In 2001, Seiko decided to have some fun and further encourage a culture of experimentation by starting the Seiko Power Design Project, an annual opportunity for Seiko designers to, as Seiko puts it, “deeply explore the essence of watches in a style different from their regular work and to generate innovative outputs.” Each year, designers are given a different theme, with past years tackling things like the neighborhoods or districts of Tokyo or more abstract concepts, such as “rebirth” and “fascination.” After its discontinuation in 2009, Seiko relaunched the project in 2023. This year’s Power Design Project has delivered another crop of unique watches under the theme of “incredibly specialized watches.” The standout of the collection is the Ambidextrous, a watch that can be worn on the left hand or the right-with it appearing a different color depending on which way it’s facing. Designer Kento Ito accomplished the optical illusion with a steel case painted black on one half and a dial painted with black and white stripes that trick your eye into thinking the dial is white or black depending on the viewing perspective. Hour, minute, and second hands extend past the center of the dial, with one half black and the other white to complete the illusion. It’s the sort of fun trick that would have y...

Hublot Introduces a Three-Dimensional “Grand” Complication SJX Watches
Hublot Introduces Jan 30, 2024

Hublot Introduces a Three-Dimensional “Grand” Complication

Hublot’s flagship launch at LVMH Watch Week 2024 is the MP-10 Tourbillon Weight Energy System, an enormous and outlandishly complicated wristwatch that takes a novel approach to each of its key functions: telling the time, winding, and regulation. The time is indicated by rolling cylinders, while the movement is regulated by an inclined flying tourbillon, and the mainsprings wound by a novel mechanism that relies on the linear motion of twin sliding weights. All the mechanical intricacy is visible under a panoramic, wraparound sapphire crystal curved on three different planes. Initial Thoughts Although Hublot is best known for its simpler models like the Classic Fusion, and sometimes gets flak for the basic movements used in those watches, the brand has long specialises in intricately-mechanical complications, most notably the MP-05 LaFerrari with a movement shaped like an automobile engine and the MP-07 with a 40-day power reserve. The MP-10 continues the series in the same oversized, hyper-modern format. The movement combines several unusual complications that have been found elsewhere, but never altogether. These include the cylindrical time display and inclined tourbillon, but more notably the linear winding mechanism. This is probably the most dynamic complication in the watch, since the twin weights on each side of the case will slide up and down with the motion of the wrist. Winding a movement with sliding weights has been tried several times in the past, includin...

First Look – The New Bulgari Lucea Models With Mother-of-Pearl and Malachite Dials Monochrome
Bulgari Lucea Models Jan 30, 2024

First Look – The New Bulgari Lucea Models With Mother-of-Pearl and Malachite Dials

While not many of us can pull off one of Bulgari’s spectacular high jewellery watches like those presented in the Garden of Eden collection with opulent gemstone flowers winding up the arm, take heart because there are other women’s collections designed for everyday wear. One of these is the best-selling Lucea collection launched by Bulgari […]

First Look – The Bulgari Octo Finissimo Tuscan Copper a.k.a The Salmon-Steel Octo Monochrome
Bulgari Octo Finissimo Tuscan Copper Jan 29, 2024

First Look – The Bulgari Octo Finissimo Tuscan Copper a.k.a The Salmon-Steel Octo

The third record for thinness in the successful Octo Finissimo series by Bulgari, the Octo Finissimo Automatic started its life in the most monochromatic and sleek attire possible – sandblasted titanium over a tone-on-tone dial, a signature look for the collection. However, since its introduction in 2017, the model has seen multiple variations of colours and […]

Review: Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF Sport Chronograph SJX Watches
Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF Sport Chronograph Jan 28, 2024

Review: Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF Sport Chronograph

Two years after the Tonda PF, a commercial hit for the previously low-key brand, Parmigiani Fleurier has diversified its lineup of sports watches with the Tonda PF Sport. Replacing the Tonda GT as the brand’s entry-level sports watch, the Tonda PF Sport has a cleaner, bolder aesthetic compared to the Tonda PF. The Tonda PF Sport is available as either a chronograph, or a time-and-date automatic. The standout model is the Tonda PF Sport Chronograph, which is equipped with the PF070, an integrated chronograph movement with impressive features, including a high-frequency, free-sprung balance running at 36,000 beats per hour (5 Hz), double barrels, as well as the requisite column wheel and vertical clutch expected of a modern calibre – all contained in a package under 7 mm high. Initial thoughts My first in-person encounter with Parmigiani’s sports watch was in 2021 when the brand launched the Tonda PF amidst the integrated-bracelet-sports-watch craze during the pandemic. Countless brands were trying to replicate the success of the Royal Oak and Nautilus, so it seemed like Parmigiani was just one of many trying to do the same thing. However, when I got an opportunity to examine the Tonda PF in person during Geneva Watch Days that year, it struck me as something different, rather than a derivative product. Even though the Tonda PF was clearly an integrated-bracelet sports watch, it was not like the others in both style and detail. The Tonda PF Sport Chronograph is obvious...

Zenith Introduces Pilot Pair in Blue SJX Watches
Zenith Introduces Pilot Pair Jan 24, 2024

Zenith Introduces Pilot Pair in Blue

A year after revamping Pilot collection with fresh-faced aesthetics, Zenith releases a pair of boutique editions – the Pilot Automatic and Pilot Big Date Flyback. Both feature blue dials with a linear horizontal pattern inspired by stamped aluminium body panels of vintage aircraft. Initial thoughts Zenith is best known for El Primero of 1969, a high-frequency chronograph calibre now in its second generation, which is the movement found in both new Pilot models, although the former is not a chronograph. Both, however, share the same design that defines the current Pilot line-up. Unveiled last year, the Pilot has a friendlier, more modern face than most aviator’s watches that tend to be military-inspired. It has all of the hallmarks of a pilot’s watch, including large Arabic numerals and legibility, but manages to look distinct from all the other pilot’s watches on the market. Although blue is hardly a novel colour, the new patterned dials adds to the contemporary look, being even less military-esque than last year’s models in conventional black. The Pilot Automatic retails for US$7,500, while the Pilot Big Date Flyback retails for US$11,500. The time-and-date automatic is relatively pricey for a simple watch, although the high-beat, in-house movement helps justify the price somewhat. On the other hand, the chronograph is competitive against similar watches from rival brands, particularly since the calibre inside is the latest generation of the El Primero. Moreov...

Introducing – The Furlan Marri x Time+Tide Outback Elegy Monochrome
Furlan Marri x Time+Tide Outback Elegy Jan 18, 2024

Introducing – The Furlan Marri x Time+Tide Outback Elegy

When Furlan Marri released their reference 2116-A, our editor Robin wrote, “the meca-quartz masterminds that rocked the watchmaking world go full-mechanical“. And indeed, not only did this automatic time-only watch make a good impression, but it also opened new horizons for the brand. Since its initial release, a salmon version has been presented, too. But […]

Introducing: The Omega Speedmaster '57 (Again), This Time With Broad Arrow Hands – Finally! Hodinkee
Omega Jan 11, 2024

Introducing: The Omega Speedmaster '57 (Again), This Time With Broad Arrow Hands – Finally!

Something strange happened in 2013. Omega released a new self-winding Speedmaster with its killer co-axial movement and called it the Speedmaster '57. It looked like the original reference 2915 from 1957 in so, so many ways, right down to the crown-guard-less, polished case, and steel bezel. It was, as I called it back then, a superb offering for someone looking for a vintage-looking watch with great styling but with modern technology at a great price, from a blue-chip brand. But one thing really bugged me about that watch – where were the broad-arrow hands? You call it a Speedmaster '57, and do everything right except give it its most identifiable trait? I didn't get it, I still don't, but it doesn't matter now because Omega went ahead and fixed that.

Blancpain & Swatch Introduce the Bioceramic Scuba Fifty Fathoms “Ocean of Storms” SJX Watches
Blancpain & Swatch Introduce Jan 10, 2024

Blancpain & Swatch Introduce the Bioceramic Scuba Fifty Fathoms “Ocean of Storms”

Just days a week into the new year, Blancpain and Swatch announce an all-black variation of the Scuba Fifty Fathoms, their affordable collaboration introduced last year. The Ocean of Storms retains all the distinctive features of the model, namely a 42.3 mm Bioceramic case containing the Sistem51 automatic movement fitted with a rotor bearing a nudibranch (a shell-less mollusc for those unfamiliar with esoteric marine creatures). Priced at US$400 as before, it will be available at select Swatch boutiques starting January 11, 2024. Initial thoughts When Swatch started teasing this new variant on social media, it seemed to be yet another one-off limited edition available for one day, like the MoonSwatch “Mission to Moonshine Gold” releases last year. However, as more details emerged, it became apparent that this was not the case as this will be part of the permanent collection, bringing the number of Scuba Fifty Fathoms models to an even six. At first glance, the Ocean of Storms bears a striking resemblance to last year’s Fifty Fathoms 70th Anniversary “Act 1”, a high-end watch that is an actual Blancpain, particularly with the date window and notched bezel. Nevertheless, adjustments to the design set it apart from its pricier cousins as well as its siblings in the Scuba line. It is clearly the most monochromatic and low-key of the range. Priced at US$400, the Ocean of Storms is priced the same as the other variants, retaining its fun and affordable appeal. However...

Rashid Tsoroev Introduces the Evo Arrow with a Hand-Hammered Dial SJX Watches
Jan 9, 2024

Rashid Tsoroev Introduces the Evo Arrow with a Hand-Hammered Dial

Based in the southernmost corner of Russia, Rashid Tsoroev is a watchmaker who got his start in 2019 with fairly simple time-only watches powered by the oversized ETA Unitas calibre. Now Mr Tsoroev has upgraded his work, both stylistically and mechanically, with the debut of the Evo Arrow that is priced affordably at US$5,000. Still a three-hand watch but now equipped with a La Joux-Perret (LJP) automatic, the Evo Arrow sports a hand-hammered brass dial – a technique is sometimes described as tremblage – that he makes himself. Mr Tsoroev relies on suppliers for other components like the case, but he finishes all the components in his own workshop. Initial thoughts Like many independent makers in this price segment, Mr Tsoroev outsources several aspects the watch,  but he applies his skill to key aspects, including producing and finishing the dial and hands; this contrasts with brands that merely design and assemble watches. Mr Tsoroev’s attention to detail is admirable, considering the price of the watch. Elements like the font he designed for the watch and the rounded arms of the hands reflect the thought put into the design and execution. Granted, there are constraints imposed by the retail price and presumably Mr Tsoroev’s location (where there are probably no suppliers in a radius of hundreds of kilometres), but the Evo Arrow feels like an honest creation by a craftsman. The only thing I would change is the movement. I would swap the LJP calibre for a Russian ...

IWC Introduces the Portugieser Chronograph “Year of the Dragon” SJX Watches
Casio nal special editions Jan 8, 2024

IWC Introduces the Portugieser Chronograph “Year of the Dragon”

Continuing with its occasional special editions to celebrate the Chinese Lunar New Year, IWC has just released the Portugieser Chronograph “Year of the Dragon” to mark honour the Year of the Wood Dragon commencing in early 2024. This limited edition is essentially the classic Portugieser Chronograph Ref. 3716 but with a striking burgundy dial featuring gilt numerals and hands. Initial thoughts Burgundy dials on the Portugieser stand out as demonstrated by last year’s Portugieser Automatic 40, so it was inevitable to see it on the Portugieser Chronograph. The fact that this is a limited edition isn’t a big deal since IWC does a fair number of limited editions. But this specific watch, however, does look good. Whilst the design remains identical to the original, this has all of the dial elements in either gold-plating or powder-gilt print, which are more visually complementary than the combination of gold and black found on the silver dial of the standard steel model. The new look incurs an extra charge of US$950 in comparison to the standard production model, culminating in a retail price of US$9,350. While not a great deal by any means, it’s a reasonable premium, given the new dial and commemorative rotor. However, it is a limited edition of 1,000 watches, a substantial number given IWC’s scale, so the brand should have either reduced the premium or edition size to boost the appeal. The Portugieser Automatic 40 “Year of the Rabbit” from 2022. Image – IWC ...

Introducing – The Glashütte Original Lady Serenade Valentine’s Day 2024 Monochrome
Glashütte Original Lady Serenade Valentine’s Day Jan 3, 2024

Introducing – The Glashütte Original Lady Serenade Valentine’s Day 2024

For Valentine’s Day 2024, Glashütte Original gives its Lady Serenade model a romantic makeover with diamonds and a delicate mother-of-pearl dial with gradient pink-hued numerals. Combining traditional Saxon pragmatism in the form of a robust stainless steel case and an in-house automatic movement, the three-hand-and-date Lady Serenade is a limited edition of 50 pieces. The […]

TAG Heuer Autavia Chronometer Flyback: Celebrating the 60th Anniversary of the Autavia with Two Nostalgically Inclined Flyback Chronographs – Reprise Quill & Pad
TAG Heuer Autavia Chronometer Flyback Celebrating Dec 31, 2023

TAG Heuer Autavia Chronometer Flyback: Celebrating the 60th Anniversary of the Autavia with Two Nostalgically Inclined Flyback Chronographs – Reprise

To mark the sixtieth anniversary of the Autavia wristwatch, TAG Heuer is rolling out two executions of an automatic flyback chronograph, a textbook example of how to transform historic looks into contemporary classics: the Autavia Chronometer Flyback.

Review: Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle Tourbillon Retrograde Date Openface SJX Watches
Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle Tourbillon Retrograde ... Dec 18, 2023

Review: Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle Tourbillon Retrograde Date Openface

Unveiled earlier this year as part of its retrograde-theme collection, the Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle Tourbillon Retrograde Date Openface is self explanatory: it combines a tourbillon, retrograde date, along with a self-winding movement. And in contrast to many date indications that are almost an afterthought, this presents the date in an elaborate, thoughtful manner. A clear sapphire dial shows off the retrograde mechanism, along with the base plate of the movement that’s been decorated with linear guilloche. And at six o’clock sits the tourbillon, with the cage in the Maltese cross emblem of Vacheron Constantin (VC), secured by a traditional bridge of polished steel. Initial thoughts Classically-styled watches sometimes suffer from the addition of a date display; dates often get in the way of the design or just don’t fit in. The Tourbillon Retrograde Date, in contrast, benefits from it. While the tourbillon might be the headline feature of the watch, and the peripheral winding the most novel, the retrograde date is  the most appealing mechanical detail. Retrograde displays are amongst the most striking dial-side complications because they are composed of parts in varying shapes, which allows them to be both beautiful and intricate when executed correctly, and here the date certainly is. Despite being a simple function in itself, the date is executed well – it is finely constructed and finished. The components of the retrograde display are clearly designe...

Review: Ulysse Nardin Blast Hourstriker SJX Watches
Audemars Piguet Supersonnerie as one Dec 15, 2023

Review: Ulysse Nardin Blast Hourstriker

One of Ulysse Nardin’s more obscure models, the Blast Hourstriker is one of the brand’s most interesting watches from a technical perspective. It’s equipped with an in-house, self-winding tourbillon movement plus a hour-striking mechanism on top. And concealed on the back is an amplification system developed with the help of Devialet, the French maker of high-end speakers that was coincidentally founded by a member of the Nardin family that once controlled the eponymous brand. Initial thoughts The Ulysse Nardin (UN) Hourstriker caught my attention in 2019 when the brand debuted the Hourstriker Phantom, the first model featuring the Devialet amplification system. Comprised of both a novel gong fixture and soundboard, the Devialet system arguably ranks alongside the inventions in the Patek Philippe “Advanced Research” Minute Repeater ref. 5750P and Audemars Piguet Supersonnerie as one of the most notable striking innovations on the market today. And the backstory of the Devialet system is surprisingly appropriate: one of Devialet’s co-founders is Emmanuel Nardin, an industrial designer who’s a descendant of Ulysse. The Hourstriker Phantom. Image – Ulysse Nardin The Hourstriker Phantom was short-lived and quickly replaced by the Blast Hourstriker. Even though the Blast Hourstriker is a substantially upgraded watch, most enthusiasts are probably unaware of it, probably because it resembles less complicated models in UN’s catalogue. In the Blast Hourstriker, t...

Introducing – The Montford Watch Co. Rubus, A Cool Field Watch with Charity in Mind Monochrome
Dec 11, 2023

Introducing – The Montford Watch Co. Rubus, A Cool Field Watch with Charity in Mind

It can get a bit tiring introducing “another” affordable field watch from “another” new microbrand, but the Rubus from Montford Watch Company is different, supporting Tusk’s charity work in Africa with a well-thought timepiece that’s anything but an afterthought. From the textured steel grey dial, proven automatic movement and a pair of cool straps, the […]

eBay Finds: A Beautiful Vintage Zodiac, a Pair of Affordable Seikos, and an Uncommon Seth Thomas Stingray Chronograph Worn & Wound
Grand Seiko lines Nov 17, 2023

eBay Finds: A Beautiful Vintage Zodiac, a Pair of Affordable Seikos, and an Uncommon Seth Thomas Stingray Chronograph

eBay Finds is back! This bi-monthly installment will feature a selection of watches currently listed on eBay that have caught the eye of editor Christoph McNeil (@vintagediver). If you come across any hidden gems on the ‘Bay drop us a note at info@wornandwound.com for potential inclusion! Vintage 1970s Zodiac Automatic Day-Date w/ Mesh Zodiac Band  Zodiac is most well known to vintage watch collectors for their incredible Sea Wolf divers, but they also made a plethora of other models, including this early 1970’s sporty dress watch which has loads of vintage style. The silver dial has applied block steel markers, stick hands and a day date window at 3 o’clock that is opposite of the Zodiac script which gives the dial a nice balance. The steel case is unpolished with sharp edges and original finish, and the watch has the original signed crown to boot. A nice touch is that this gem comes on the original Zodiac signed mesh bracelet made by JB Champion. Really nice looking and subtly blingy piece.  View auction here Seiko 5 Vintage 5126-8110  Next up is a great looking vintage Seiko 5 from 1968. This model 5126-8110 has a little bit of everything. The steel case is unpolished with sharp edges and you can tell it is a distant relative of the Grammar of Design school of aesthetics from the King and Grand Seiko lines. The charcoal dial is super clean, with lume filled, applied steel markers and the usual day/date window at 3 o’clock. To me, the best part of this one i...