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Time+Tide
Less is not always more: Andrew O'Connor demonstrates how you can build some rather impressive 3-watch collections for the price of a Rolex.The post The case for quantity over “quality”: building a whole collection for the price of a two-tone Datejust appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
WatchAdvice
To celebrate the partnership with the World Surf League, Breitling has released a new SuperOcean Heritage Oceania limited edition in 42mm and 36mm, the perfect summer watch pair! What We Love The white dial is great for summer Blued hands and indices are a really nice touch The new Milanese bracelet is super comfortable on the wrist What We Don’t The domed crystal is still an issue, but less so with the white dial No comfort adjust on the bracelet for the warmer days A rubber strap option could have been a good inclusion as well Overall Rating: 8.75 / 10 Value for Money: 9/10 Wearability: 8.5/10 Design: 8.5/10 Build Quality: 9/10 According to the latest data, around 85% of Australians live no further than 50km from the coast. And the majority of those are based on the East Coast. We are an island nation after all, with most of the interior of the country uninhabited. So, for those reading this who live in Australia, the ocean isn’t a backdrop; it’s a way of life for many. From the long, rolling breaks of the Gold Coast to the raw, reef-lined coastlines of North Queensland, to the rugged beaches down south. We, along with our New Zealand cousins, love the sand and surf. So it is no surprise that the Breitling SuperOcean is a great-selling watch in this part of the world. Originally conceived in the 1950s as a professional dive watch with a distinctly elegant edge, the SuperOcean Heritage has since evolved into something broader: a watch that speaks to ocean cultur...
Teddy Baldassarre
The Universal Genève Polerouter is probably the most historically significant watch that enthusiasts of a certain age have never heard of. Okay, maybe that's overstating it, but the watch is certainly less, well, universal in its claim to icon status than several other, more well known models that debuted later. And yet, if it weren't for the Polerouter, which came out in the mid-1950s and which afforded an opportunity for a young, precocious watch designer to make his first mark on the industry, we may never have had the opportunity to experience some of those 1970s models that came later. Intrigued? Read on. [toc-section heading="Universal Genève History (1894 - 1950s)"] Despite the “Genève” that has become attached to the company’s name, the firm originally known as Universal Watch traces its roots to a smaller Swiss city, the village of Le Locle (also home to Ulysse Nardin, Zenith, and Tissot), where it was established in 1894 by watchmakers Numa-Emile Descombes and Ulysse-Georges Perret. Descombes died a few years later, and Louis Berthoud, one of the company’s most talented watchmakers, rose from the ranks to become Perret’s partner in 1897. The pair moved operations to Geneva in 1919, forging the company's modern name and identity. The firm became known for chronographs, and eventually produced both pocket watches and trench watches (pocket watches converted to wristwatches for soldiers in the field) for armies on both sides of the two World Wars. O...
Worn & Wound
When I began writing my most recent article on the original Timex Q Nebula a month ago, I had no idea how timely its release would be several weeks later. My article hit the website on January 29th, and less than a week later, Timex announced the reissue of this model with the Red Vega moniker. While I had initially claimed in my work that I was the creator of the “Timex Vega” nickname, I will gladly concede my very small and inconsequential victory to Timex, knowing they must’ve brainstormed this name many months before I did. At this rate, I’m just happy to see this watch finally receive the proper reissue treatment. Let’s talk about its design and specs. First, of course, is the dial. The nebula pattern on the example featured in Timex’s promotional shots of the watch is phenomenal. With sharp edges and a bright red hue, it’s well executed and packs a vibrant punch. I haven’t heard if the dial design will vary between examples, so be on the lookout as other photos emerge to see if there are any differences in pattern. The 38mm brushed and polished stainless-steel case looks great from all angles and helps keep the case almost as interesting as the dial and crystal. Oh yeah, how did I not mention the crystal yet? These reissues will feature multifaceted acrylic crystals similar to those offered on the original 1978 model––a very welcome and unique touch. Having the unique perspective of a historian who’s done an ample amount of research on this sp...
Fratello
Sometimes good things happen really fast. It’s been less than two weeks since I wrote the introduction article for the new CIGA Design Time Cipher. In it, I expressed my wish to take the brand’s latest creation for a spin, and barely a week after publication, the watch landed on my desk. So for the […] Visit Hands-On With The Fun CIGA Design Time Cipher to read the full article.
Teddy Baldassarre
Breitling announced today that it has become the Official Watch Partner of British luxury carmaker Aston Martin and the Aston Martin Aramco Formula One racing team. The multi-year global partnership, which marks the Swiss watchmaker’s return to the high-octane world of F1 motorsports after many decades, kicks off with a wristwatch milestone: the Breitling Navitimer B01 Chronograph 43 Aston Martin Aramco Formula One Team, which is no less than the first timepiece in the iconic Navitimer series with a case made of lightweight titanium. The two world-renowned companies have some ties throughout their prestigious histories. Breitling, while it has not been as visible in the racing world over the years as brands like Rolex and TAG Heuer, was an early contributor to motorsport timing. In 1907, Léon Breitling, who had founded his eponymous watchmaking firm in 1884, invented a device called the “Vitesse” (French for “speed”), a mechanical chronograph capable of measuring speeds up to 250 miles per hour. Its utility and precision spurred the Swiss police to adopt it for speed enforcement, which led to the world’s first speeding tickets. Just six years later, in 1913, Lionel Martin and Robert Bamford drove their hand-built automobile to a defining victory up the treacherous Aston Hill, giving their company a name and kicking off a long tradition of making cars built for both performance and luxury. The paths of the Swiss high-horology house and the British marque cr...
Hodinkee
AP continues to show how less can most certainly be more.
Monochrome
Think we’ve seen everything a tourbillon can do? Think again. After decades of silence, an illustrious name returns to the world of watchmaking. Henri Grandjean is back with a brand aimed at reminding enthusiasts that some names never lose their magic. And it comes back with a new twist up his sleeve – a mechanical […]
Fratello
With LVMH Watch Week in full swing, Hublot proves to be one of the most active houses, releasing a host of new models. I already covered new additions to the Big Bang collection, Jorg covered the Djokovic LEs, and today, I return with more news from the Classic Fusion line. These new models include a […] Visit Introducing: New Additions To The Hublot Classic Fusion Line to read the full article.
Hodinkee
Less material, more craft, and an even thinner movement than the previous Extra Plat.
Fratello
Hublot celebrated 20 years of the Big Bang last year with a limited-edition Big Bang 20th Anniversary edition. These LEs took their design language from the original models and paired it with Unico in-house calibers. It was only a matter of time before we would see this sensible pairing in a regular-production model, and here […] Visit Hublot Upgrades The Big Bang Original Collection To Unico Status to read the full article.
Monochrome
The Lycée Edgar Faure in Morteau has been nurturing an impressive wave of independent watchmakers, emerging with fresh visions and artisanal talent. In recent years, it has produced notable names such as Sylvain Pinaud, Théo Auffret, Rémy Cools, John-Mikaël Flaux, Cyril Brivet-Naudot, Thomas Aubert and Alexis Ramel-Sartori, and many others. Today, we turn our attention to […]
Hodinkee
Artem Straps’ new Loop-less™ HydroFlex™ line makes their signature sailcloth straps stronger, sleeker, and more comfortable than ever.
Hodinkee
From a diver to a very vintage dress watch, Seiko is tapping into its history for a quartet of new LEs.
SJX Watches
Vacheron Constantin kept its team busy during its 270th anniversary year. Having put a tremendous amount of effort into the most complicated wristwatch ever made and a few other genuine novelties, many of the brand’s other releases, including several one-off Métiers d’art creations, were new versions of existing models. The Les Cabinotiers Minute Repeater Ultra-Thin Homage to Epic Warriors is an example of the latter, introducing four one-of-a-kind grand feu enamel references to its otherwise simple (and thin) minute repeater platform. Heroic subject matter The ‘warriors’ set celebrates four famous warriors from across time. The series begins with the Homage to Alexander the Great, a pupil of Aristotle who conquered much of the eastern Mediterranean region (and beyond) in the fourth century BCE. From there, the inspiration gradually moves east, making its first stop in what is now Saudi Arabia, where a warrior poet named Antarah ibn Shaddad, now often known simply as Antar, made his mark about 1,500 years ago. The Antar reference was not available to photograph. No set of warrior-themed watches would be complete without an homage to the most legendary conquerer of all time, Ghengis Khan. That name is actually a title he adopted in 1206, and translates as ‘universal ruler’. The series concludes by looking east, to the land of the rising sun. Sasaki Moritsuna was technically a contemporary of Ghengis Khan, though he died when the future Mongolian ruler was just ...
Time+Tide
Strictly speaking, this is the least mysterious 'Mystery' watch Franck Muller has ever made - but it's no less impressive.The post Franck Muller ditches subtlety for high jewellery with the Round Triple Mystery appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Going off-grid doesn’t have to mean disappearing completely. Sometimes it’s simply choosing tools that don’t demand attention, like watches that run accurately, clearly, and indefinitely, so you can step away from screens, notifications, and the constant pull of “what’s next.” Very few watch brands create products with a high degree of different technologies, each designed to help you need to connect less, not more. Whether it’s Eco-Drive or Atomic Timekeeping, the Citizen watches below are built to operate independently, allowing you to unplug with confidence and focus on being present, making them a perfect gift for someone who deserves a break. We’ve paired each watch with gear that extends this idea, stuff that’s supportive, thoughtful, and intentionally uncomplicated. The post The Going Off-Grid Gift Guide with Citizen appeared first on Worn & Wound.
Monochrome
Since its founding in 2019, Serica has built a loyal following for its elegant take on tool watches. Designed in Paris by Jérôme Burgert and Gabriel Vachette (of Les Rhabilleurs publication), Serica’s creations blend the discipline of military design with what is best described as distinctly French refinement. The brand’s collection comprises the 5303 Diver […]
Monochrome
A mechanical watch is a true work of miniature engineering, regardless of the expense. A sub-€300 Seiko 5 Sports has the same basic mechanical elements and wonder as a four-figure IWC, and is just a bit less detailed and accurate day-to-day. Almost self-sufficient and independent of electricity, a mechanical watch simply needs to be wound […]
Monochrome
When it comes to watch brands, Moser is something of an iconoclast. From the start, Moser took a less conventional path, often taking jabs at the watchmaking industry with the Swiss Alp watch, deriding smartwatches, and the Swiss Mad watch with its Swiss cheese case. Time has worked its way, and Moser’s preoccupations have matured […]
Monochrome
March LA.B is a multi-product French company founded in 2009 by three friends passionate about surfing and 1970s retro design. Named after the month March, followed by an acronym for Los Angeles and Biarritz, where the founding partners reside, March LA.B retails a portfolio of surfer-friendly products with eyewear, wetsuits, small leather goods, shorts and […]
Worn & Wound
For the second time this week, TAG Heuer has introduced a rather audacious Monaco. Yesterday we told you about the all new Air 1, a flagship of sorts that puts all of TAG’s resources to bear on a split second chronograph with no compromises. Today, TAG debuts a Monaco that’s a bit more accessible but no less specialized, a watch that is meant for F1 fans celebrating the unique experience of the circuit’s night races. Even a casual F1 observer (I count myself in this category) can appreciate the spectacle of a night race. It’s a very different aesthetic experience than a race run during daylight hours, and the new limited edition Monaco seen here really leans into that night race vibe with some dramatic applications of color throughout. To start, it’s built on a 39mm titanium case that has been DLC coated, and given a skeletonized dial treatment that we’ve seen from a bunch of earlier Monaco limited editions at this point. Where this watch really sets itself apart though a gradient effect that is layered throughout the dial and unique lume application. Multiple lume colors are employed to draw the eye to either the chronograph or time telling functions, depending use case. The chronograph totalizers at 3 and 9 are rendered in blue, with turquoise hands, while green glowing lume is found on the primary hour and minute hands. There’s also additional purple lume throughout the minute track, and the bridges themselves have been given a gradient effect that range...
Fratello
Watch collectors often discuss design, materials, and mechanical nuances, but the conversation frequently shifts toward something less tangible - the stories tied to these objects. Whether passed down through family, acquired during memorable moments, or simply worn through everyday life, watches tend to gather meaning in ways their manufacturers cannot always predict. On this week’s […] Visit Fratello Talks: Watches And The Stories They Tell to read the full article.
Time+Tide
Here are a bunch of great dive watches from several different brands that will all ring up the till less than US$5,000.The post 11 of the best affordable dive watches for avoiding the bends on a budget appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Marking its 270th anniversary, Vacheron Constantin has approached the milestone with uncommon ambition. The anniversary programme continues with a duo of one-of-a-kind Les Cabinotiers pieces - Celestia Homage to Ptolemy and Celestia Homage to Copernicus - developed under the brand’s ongoing “The Quest” theme. These one-off creations showcase the manufacture’s dual mastery of horology and métiers d’art. Presented here is a rare hands-on look at both before they disappear into private collections. The pair follows an already packed year that opened with the debut of the Solaria, a landmark wristwatch that claims the title of the most complicated ever made thanks to its 41 functions. Soon after came La Quête du Temps, a monumental astronomical clock that recently wrapped up its exhibition at the Louvre in Paris. Taken together, these creations underscore not only the scale of VC’s technical reach but also the brand’s talent for blending engineering, artistry, and traditional craft. Initial thoughts Each of the new Les Cabinotiers watches expresses a different facet of VC’s watchmaking identity. The new Celestia references utilise the brand’s earlier cal. 3600, but elevate it through intricate case engraving that links science with art. As a pair, these watches reinforce the idea that VC’s greatest strength lies in synthesis. Few manufactures can move so fluidly between engineering precision and artistic refinement. As unique pieces, pricing is largel...
SJX Watches
Vacheron Constantin’s 270th anniversary Les Cabinotiers offerings include a variation on a theme with the Armillary Tourbillon “Myth of the Pleiades”. Having been introduced several years ago, the Armillary Tourbillon is a double-axis regulator with a bi-retrograde time display. This unique iteration is dressed entirely in yellow gold, and intricately hand engraved across all of the case surfaces. Initial thoughts The Armillary Tourbillon “Myth of the Pleiades” channels the same celestial inspiration found on the other 270th anniversary watches into mythological storytelling, blending the brand’s signature double-axis tourbillon with sculptural engraving. Still inspired by the stars, this unique piece takes its theme from the Greek myth of the Pleiades - seven sisters transformed into stars who have guided sailors for millennia. The watch is as much about artistic expression as it is about mechanics. The heavily open-worked dial exposes much of the movement beneath, showcasing the double retrograde system for the hours and minutes. The champagne-toned bridges share the same warm hue as the Cosmica Duo, while the finishing throughout is of the highest standard. The cal. 1990 inside remains as appealing as ever, with skeletonised snail cams and beautiful swirling levers for the retrograde works, all tightly packed on the right side of the dial. The blued hands point to a numbered half-circle sector, which is useful since reading the time on this “halved” fo...
SJX Watches
Marking its 270th anniversary, Vacheron Constantin (VC) has celebrated in grand style, exemplified by the year’s latest, a pair of double-dial grand complications: Les Cabinotiers Cosmica Duo and Les Cabinotiers Moon Dust. Initial thoughts Each of the new Les Cabinotiers watches expresses a different facet of VC’s watchmaking identity. The Cosmica Duo stands out as a true wrist-worn observatory, combining 24 astronomical indications with a reversible construction that makes it unusually wearable for its complexity, while the baguette-set Moon Dust translates horological ambition into pure jewellery, with hundreds of diamonds framing a movement that remains uncompromisingly mechanical. As a group, these watches reinforce the idea that VC’s greatest strength lies in synthesis. Few manufactures can move so fluidly between engineering precision and artistic refinement, or treat engraving, gem-setting, and chiming mechanisms as parallel forms of expression. As unique pieces, pricing is largely outside the scope of this hands-on evaluation. As is typical for VC’s bespoke Les Cabinotiers department, each watch was almost certainly developed in close collaboration with its eventual owner, making them more commissions than catalogue items. Their value, therefore, lies not only in their material complexity but also in the fact that each represents a personal chapter in the continuing story of Geneva’s oldest watchmaker. The layered architecture of the Cosmica Duo. Image ...
Somewhere, in a drawer lined with yellowed graph paper and sharpened No. 2 pencils, there’s a circular slide rule waiting to be understood. It belonged to a grandfather who spent his life chasing the elegance of equations-someone who could balance a checkbook in his head and chart a rocket’s trajectory on a napkin. For the person who inherited that drawer-and the curiosity that came with it-the new Xeric Omnigraph Automatic feels less like a watch and more like a reunion. Before computers, before calculators, before “Hey Siri, what’s 38 times 72?”-there was the circular slide rule. It wasn’t just a tool; it was a visualization of thought, an instrument for those who found beauty in precision. Xeric’s Omnigraph takes that analog intelligence and transforms it into a timepiece where mathematics itself becomes the design language. The post A Charming Tribute to the Analog Life: Introducing the Xeric Omnigraph Automatic appeared first on Worn & Wound.
SJX Watches
The just-concluded Geneva auction season was mostly a plateau with several striking peaks and a few lows. The peaks were marked by desirable timepieces that outperformed by far, yet shared little in common with one another in terms of style or period. The peaks ranged from multiple F.P. Journe watches to a diamond-set Patek Philippe ref. 3424/1 “Gilbert Albert” to the Breguet four-minute tourbillon pocket watch from 1809 to the Instagram-ready Patek Philippe ref. 3970 in “salmon” with Breguet numerals. Despite such diverse taste, the small pool of bidders seemed to have one thing in common: they were all focused on a “trophy” watch. The Christie’s saleroom in the Four Seasons. Image – Christie’s With few exceptions, contemporary watches from mainstream brands were cold, while vintage watches were mostly lukewarm – but as always there were exceptions. An Patek Philippe ref. 570 with a black dial signed “E. Gubelin” sold for an impressive CHF419,100 including fees, or US$523,000, at Christie’s, while Phillips sold a Rolex Daytona ref. 6263 “RCO” (or “Oyster Sotto”) for an equally impressive CHF1.39 million, or US$1.73 million – close to the historical peak for the model. A vintage watch that surprised on the downside was the 1927 Rolex Oyster worn by Mercedes Gleitze when she became the first woman to swim the English Channel in 1927 – a landmark in Rolex lore. Though it sold for CHF1.39 million, or US$1.74 million, there was just one bi...
Time+Tide
Vacheron Constantin has followed up its boatload of Les Cabinotiers La Quête piece uniques with additional Chinese Zodiac novelties.The post New releases from Universal Genève, Minase, Vacheron Constantin and more appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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