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Philippe Dufour

The Vallée de Joux independent whose Simplicity, Duality, and Grande Sonnerie set the modern finishing benchmark.

Hands-On: Roger W. Smith Series 2 “Edition 2” SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Nautilus “Jumbo” ref 3700 Sep 3, 2019

Hands-On: Roger W. Smith Series 2 “Edition 2”

The Phillips Perpetual boutique in London officially opens this week with 40 watches encompassing all important genres of watch collecting, from a Rolex Daytona “John Player Special” to a Patek Philippe Nautilus “Jumbo” ref. 3700 (from the collection of Jean-Claude Biver no less). But one of the flagship offerings is an important example of independent watchmaking – a Roger W. Smith Series 2 “Edition 2” that’s “No. 1”. It is very much a quintessential, early Roger W. Smith creation with the hallmark elements of his watchmaking. But the watch is also historically interesting, being an example of the road not taken for Mr Smith. The forgotten “Edition” This watch illuminates an intriguing bit of early Roger W. Smith history. Shortly after Mr Smith delivered the first batch of Series 2 watches in late 2007, he decided to create the “Edition” concept. According to Mr Smith, the idea was to produce Series 2 as a limited edition of 90 watches in total, with 30 watches in each colour of gold. All Edition watches had 38mm cases and solid silver dials; the Edition 1 was in yellow gold, Edition 2 in rose, and Edition 3 in white gold. At the same time, Mr Smith also offered custom versions of the Series 2, which were also available in a platinum case. But as it turned out, most clients wanted a custom watch, rather than an Edition example. So Mr Smith discreetly abandoned Edition not long after, and only a five of each Edition were made. This is on...

Hands-On: Urwerk UR-111C “Pistol” SJX Watches
Patek Philippe ref 3414 Aug 26, 2019

Hands-On: Urwerk UR-111C “Pistol”

The average Urwerk is distinctly sci-fi in appearance, more Star Trek than Games of Thrones. But every once in a while Urwerk gives one of its watches the ornately-fully-engraved treatment, with the latest being the UR-111C “Pistol”. It’s a one-off creation based on the UR-111C, a watch inspired by the earlier and much more expensive UR-CC1, itself modelled on the 1950s Patek Philippe ref. 3414, an experimental wristwatch nicknamed “Cobra”. The standard UR-111C has a streamlined case with a mechanical looking details, very much in the house style of Urwerk. The Pistol, in contrast, is decorated on all surfaces with an ornate motif that’s hand-engraved by Urwerk’s go-to engraver. It was commissioned by a client who has a soft spot for such engraved Urwerk watches; the UR-111C “Pistol” is his third fully engraved watch. (Editor’s note: This Pistol shares the same name as the EMC Pistol from 2015, and was decorated by the same engraver, but is a completely different model.) Inspired by 19th century French wrought iron fixtures, the motif is in relief, raised against the background by only a fraction of a millimetre but enough to give it significant depth. Add to that the refined, narrow and perfectly straight lines of the decoration, and the talent of the engraver is obvious. Credit for the work goes to Florian Güllert, an Austrian engraver who trained as a gunsmith and usually decorates firearms. Based in Klagenfurt, a city in the south of ...

In the Haus with the new Bau Swatch Collection Time+Tide
Patek Philippe Nomos Aug 13, 2019

In the Haus with the new Bau Swatch Collection

To celebrate the centennial anniversary of the Bauhaus design movement, Swatch have released the Bau Swatch Collection of 25 new watches inspired by the pre-WWII German school of design. The Bauhaus design philosophy has had significant impact on a number of watch designs over the years, including from Patek Philippe, Nomos and Stowa. Now Swatch … ContinuedThe post In the Haus with the new Bau Swatch Collection appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Kennsen Debuts with the Smart & Affordable Annual Calendar Chronograph SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Jul 18, 2019

Kennsen Debuts with the Smart & Affordable Annual Calendar Chronograph

Kennsen Watches makes its debut with a notably clever and well-priced annual calendar chronograph powered by a patented calendar module on top of a Valjoux 7750. Though Kennsen is newly set-up, its founder David Lea specialises in constructing complications for other brands, explaining the surprising degree of technical innovation for a small start-up. Annual calendar chronographs are relatively uncommon on the market and most are fairly costly – Patek Philippe and Ulysse Nardin are amongst the handful of brands that offer one – making the new Kennsen the most affordable example today, with a retail price of just over US$5000. Despite its affordability, the Kennsen annual calendar chronograph is entirely Swiss-made. The case is produced by Victorinox, the famed maker of Swiss army knives and also watches, while the module was designed by Lea & Associé – Mr Lea’s design outfit – and manufactured by a firm in the Vallée de Joux. Made of stainless steel, the case is 42mm in diameter, with a polished bezel and case back, while the case band has a brushed finish. The dial, available in either black or champagne, has a clean and pleasant design. It features recessed sub-dials, applied indices and a telemeter scale in miles and kilometres on the outer rim. At one o’clock is a day and night indicator displayed in a small aperture, and nestled subtly next to the central axis of the dial is the month display, aligned on the same axis as the date at three. ...

Live from London: George Daniels Space Traveller I Sells for US$4.56m SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Grandmaster Chime Jul 2, 2019

Live from London: George Daniels Space Traveller I Sells for US$4.56m

The George Daniels Space Traveller I, one of the most important watches of the 20th century, has just sold at Sotheby’s in London for  £3.62m, or about US$4.56m, all fees included. That makes the Space Traveller I the most expensive watch sold in 2019 so far – though it will doubtlessly be eclipsed by the Patek Philippe Grandmaster Chime in steel for Only Watch – and the most expensive watch ever by an independent watchmaker. A big boost to Sotheby’s market share in watch auctions, the record-setting Daniels was the final lot in the first auction of Masterworks of Time, the sale of a collection of over 800 pocket watches owned by Erivan Haub, the late German supermarket tycoon. The last time the Space Traveller was sold was in 1988, where Haub paid  220,000 Swiss francs for it at Sotheby’s in Geneva. Prior to that, the watch was been sold by London antique watch dealer Bobinet in 1982 to a collector by the name of Jay Lennon. In almost forty years, the Space Traveller has had only three owners. The auction Having concluded just over an hour ago, the auction took place on a pleasant summer’s day in London, but it was slow going in the half-filled room. The average age of the attendees was notedly higher than that for a wristwatch auction, reflecting the niche nature of pocket watch collecting. But a crowd started to form as soon as it came to the Space Traveller, and the atmosphere perked up. Bidding started out as a tussle between an absentee bidder...

The 369-Year Old Watch in Mint Condition SJX Watches
Patek Philippe from Jul 1, 2019

The 369-Year Old Watch in Mint Condition

A “new old stock” Rolex or Patek Philippe from the 1950s is a marvel. So this Jehan Cremsdorff pocket watch – which was made around 1650, making it almost 370 years old – is miraculous. So incredible is the Cremsdorff that for pocket watch collectors, the last time it was sold was a landmark event; the watch was the “Bao Dai” or “Paul Newman” or Grandmaster Chime “Only Watch” of the 1980s. Part of the epic collection of pocket watches owned by a late German billionaire, which also includes the George Daniels Space Traveller I, the Cremsdorff watch is an incredible object that has been mysteriously well preserved over the centuries, with only minimal restoration to the enamel. Though little is known about him, Jehan Cremsdorff was a watchmaker active in Paris during the late 17th century. Its immensely elaborate enamel work indicates Cremsdorff probably made the watch for a royal or noble client; the identity of the original owner is lost to time, but the watch came from Sweden when it was first sold publicly. Made of thin sheets of gold, the case is entirely enamelled, inside and out, an artistic accomplishment that was done by a now unknown Parisian enameller. The outer case is decorated with champleve and relief enamel, forming a remarkably intricate and vivid flower motif. And for good measure the outer case is also set with diamonds on both sides. The inside faces of the case are finished in a brilliant turquoise enamel that’s been...

Not your granddad’s Patek - the  Aquanaut Chronograph Ref. 5968A Time+Tide
Patek Philippe  Aquanaut Chronograph Ref 5968A Jun 18, 2019

Not your granddad’s Patek - the Aquanaut Chronograph Ref. 5968A

Editor’s note: One of the funny quirks of the English language is that there’s no word that rhymes with orange. Certainly, Patek Philippe Aquanaut Chronograph Ref. 5968A doesn’t, but don’t let that fool you, because this (very) fine fellow, with its orange details and neon strap option, is as orange as the sunset over Miami …  … ContinuedThe post Not your granddad’s Patek – the Aquanaut Chronograph Ref. 5968A appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

WATCHSPOTTING: Ellen, Patek, Omega and Ryan Reynolds  Time+Tide
Patek Philippe s complicated catalogue Ellen Dec 5, 2018

WATCHSPOTTING: Ellen, Patek, Omega and Ryan Reynolds 

At this point it’s not news to state that Ellen DeGeneres is, in addition to being a talk show host par excellence, possessed of exceptional taste in watches. From vintage Daytonas to what appears to be most of Patek Philippe’s complicated catalogue, Ellen has some truly outstanding taste (I mean, seriously, when will she appear … ContinuedThe post WATCHSPOTTING: Ellen, Patek, Omega and Ryan Reynolds  appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

LIST: 7 of the best sub-$5000 watches of Basel 2018 - from beyond the glitz of Hall 1 Time+Tide
Patek Philippe Mar 30, 2018

LIST: 7 of the best sub-$5000 watches of Basel 2018 - from beyond the glitz of Hall 1

Much of the hype of Baselworld is transfixed on the monolithic Hall 1, where the majority of the media attention is focused on the big industry players from the Swatch Group and LVMH, as well as big indies like Rolex and Patek Philippe. But beyond the glitz, there’s another Baselworld. Hall 2, located across the … ContinuedThe post LIST: 7 of the best sub-$5000 watches of Basel 2018 – from beyond the glitz of Hall 1 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

WHO TO FOLLOW: @VancouverFilmProducer Time+Tide
Patek Philippe Nautilus 5711R Tiffany Dial Dec 24, 2017

WHO TO FOLLOW: @VancouverFilmProducer

Film and television producer Jonathan Schwartz lives in Vancouver (obviously) with his wife and two kids. He’s also got a passion for cars, guitars and of course - watches. Hey Jonathan, what’s your daily watch and why? My daily watch is my Patek Philippe Nautilus 5711R Tiffany Dial. There is no other watch in my collection that … ContinuedThe post WHO TO FOLLOW: @VancouverFilmProducer appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

SPOTTED! BY AG: Dispatch 8, May 2017 Time+Tide
Patek Philippe Perpetual Calendar 3940G Whilst May 14, 2017

SPOTTED! BY AG: Dispatch 8, May 2017

The past few months have been so crazy that we split last month’s dispatch into two. As Basel wrapped up, I headed back to the great city of London for round two. Apparently I wasn’t sick of looking at watches yet. Silas’s Patek Philippe Perpetual Calendar 3940G Whilst roaming the streets of Clerkenwell, I took the … ContinuedThe post SPOTTED! BY AG: Dispatch 8, May 2017 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

VIDEO: “I want something created by a person, not a production line” - 3 key quotes from a watch-obsessed tattooist Time+Tide
Patek Philippe Calatrava Jan 10, 2017

VIDEO: “I want something created by a person, not a production line” - 3 key quotes from a watch-obsessed tattooist

Today we’re taking another look at a video that explores the connection between tattooing and watchmaking with world-famous ink-master Benjamin Laukis. The watch in focus here is his TAG Heuer Calibre 18 Telemeter. Other watches in Ben’s enviable stable include an A. Lange & Söhne Zeitwerk and a Tiffany dialled Patek Philippe Calatrava. The man knows his … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: “I want something created by a person, not a production line” – 3 key quotes from a watch-obsessed tattooist appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Unifying Time - The World Time Chronograph, Ref. 5930 Revolution
Patek Philippe World Time collections Dec 31, 2016

Unifying Time - The World Time Chronograph, Ref. 5930

The term “World Time” is an integral part of today’s watchmaking vocabulary, but its origins are relatively new in the grand horological scheme of things. Revolution Switzerland’s Sophie Furley takes a look at the history of the Patek Philippe World Time collections and the fascinating stories they have to tell, with a little help from Patek Philippe’s Head of Watch Development, Mr. Philip Barat.