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Quill & Pad
Like a proper gentleman, Hollywood legend Clark Gable paired wristwatches to go with his outfits both on and off screen. Gable had a gold Rolex Oyster Perpetual Reference 6011 and also wore a Patek Philippe Reference 1526 Perpetual Calendar, prominently seen in ‘Soldier of Fortune’ as Nick Gould highlights here.
Worn & Wound
Ressence continues to capture our interest and imaginations thanks to their ingenious time telling display, powered by their proprietary Ressence Orbital Convex System (ROCS) module. The platform of circular discs orbiting one another is unlike anything else in watchmaking, and Ressence could probably dine out on this technology alone for years. But as releases like the new Type 1 DX3 prove, they don’t seem content to just make the same watch over and over again. The fact is, the physical characteristics of the ROCS system provide a great canvas for a design team to really go to town, and experiment with aesthetic choices that wouldn’t be possible on a normal watch. The new Type 1 DX3 is a limited edition collaboration with Ahmed Seddiqi & Sons for this year’s Dubai Watch Week. It’s the third and final watch in a series of collaborations between Ressence and the luxury retail group behind the Dubai Watch Week concept, and continues Ressence’s exploration of traditional Arab art. In this execution of the Type 1, the dial is a canvas for Arab geometric art, with a motif in gold and brown hues. The DX3 is a play on popular fumé dials, with darker tones at the perimeter and lighter shades in the center. Of course, like every Ressence, the smaller dials move throughout the course of a day, so the character of this effect changes gradually from moment to moment. Adding further to the dial’s visual complexity, virtually the entire surface is lumed, filled in a cloi...
SJX Watches
Our favourite segments in Phillips’ Hong Kong sale on November 24 and 25 are artisanal and form watches, independents of course, and now complications. We round up a selection of nine notable complicated watches, including two special-order Patek Philippe masterpieces, a ref. 3974P with Breguet numerals and a ref. 5004P Michael Ovitz special. The list also includes vintage complications, like the well-preserved Rolex ref. 6062 yellow gold “Stelline”. And also some big value buys in a literal sense: the 48 mm Panerai PAM00350 “Lo Scienzato” skeleton tourbillon and the 44 mm Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle grand complication, both estimated at a fraction of their retail price. The Hong Kong Watch Auction: XVII takes place on November 24 and 25, 2023. Registration for bidding and the complete catalogue can be accessed here. Lot 839: Panerai Radiomir Tourbillon GMT Ceramica “Lo Scienziato” PAM00350 Panerai paid tribute to astronomer Galileo Galilei in 2010 with the PAM00350 “Lo Scienziato”, one of the most complicated watches made by the brand. It was a Radiomir Tourbillon GMT Ceramic powered by the in-house cal. P.2005/S – a skeletonised movement executed in a distinctly modern style with the base plate and brides open worked in a grid and finished entirely in matte black. The aesthetics of the P.2005/S movement make the PAM00350 arguably one of the few Panerai models that successfully blended a thoroughly contemporary aesthetic with the historical Pa...
SJX Watches
Twenty-twenty-three marks the 50th anniversary of the passing of the Hong Kong-American martial artist, actor, and cultural icon who tragically died at the age of 32. In honour of Bruce Lee’s legacy, Seiko has launched the Seiko 5 Sports Bruce Lee Limited Edition SPRK39, an affordable sports watch typical of Seiko but with an unusual all-black livery featuring subtle gold accents. Based on its entry-level sports watch, the edition’s launch also coincides with the 55th anniversary of the original Seiko 5 Sports. Retaining the same case and design as the regular production model, this limited edition incorporates Asian themes in its design as a homage to the iconic actor, including a dragon on the dial in a reference to Bruce Lee’s name. Initial thoughts It is perhaps long overdue that Seiko creates a timepiece to commemorate Bruce Lee, who was photographed on several occasions wearing a Seiko 5. The use of traditional Chinese elements are not groundbreaking, and might have even been kitschy, but fortunately an all-black look prevents this from resembling a gaudy souvenir. While this watch does evoke a certain nostalgia, it doesn’t quite have the vintage styling of the Seiko 5 model that Lee himself wore. I would have preferred an edition based the design on that or even other vintage models from the period. That would, however, probably result in a pricier watch that is a vintage remake. Priced at US$495, the Bruce Lee edition is US$135 more expensive than the stand...
Deployant
The Jaquet Droz Dragon Automaton Sapphire Lapis Lazuli is a unique piece that features a hand-made grey gold dragon automaton on a lapis lazuli dial. The dragon has sixteen moving parts and nine animations, which can be activated by a push-button. The dial also has a rotating labradorite sphere at six o’clock.
Worn & Wound
Summer is in full swing, cool and casual is the name of the game, and for Swatch that means bigger and bolder watches. Big Bold Irony, that is. For the first time, the brand is bringing its Irony treatment to the Big Bold lineup in the form of five new watches. The Irony collection was originally conceived in the 1990s as a premium offering featuring cases made from metal, and indeed, the new Big Bold Irony watches are fitted with stainless steel cases. They are also the first to combine steel with Swatch’s proprietary Bioceramic. There’s no getting around the fact that these watches truly live up to their namesake. At 47mm wide, they undoubtedly make a statement. Swatch has cleverly shaped the lugs, which start towards the underside of the case and curve sharply downwards, resulting in a case length of just 44.8mm. This is identical to the current Big Bold collection and is remarkably wearable for a wide audience. In fact, the only difference in dimension between these and the standard Big Bolds is thickness: the new Irony watches are 13.3mm thick as opposed to 11.75mm in plastic. Swatch’s design choice of keeping the crown at 2 o-clock ensures it will never dig into your wrist, and at 108 grams (with a quartz movement), these watches can easily be worn all day, every day, which is kind of the point. With five options of summery colors – Dark Irony (Black), Azure Blue Daze, Red Juicy, Mint Trim, and Bolden Yellow – you will have no trouble finding one that match...
Time+Tide
Making waves upon its September 2022 release, the Norqain Wild One signalled that Jean-Claude Biver’s advisory role in the brand wasn’t just a marketing move, but rather a shot at the big leagues. With a new composite case made of the brand’s proprietary Norteq material and Kenissi power, it was clear that Norqain is investing … ContinuedThe post Norqain jazzes up the Wild One with skeleton-dialled duo appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Revolution
Vacheron Constantin’s Heritage and Style Director Christian Selmoni presents the Vacheron Constantin Double Retrograde mechanism, which is now available in both the Vacheron Constantin Patrimony and the Vacheron Constantin styles of watch. In this video, Mr Selmoni also shows Revolution Founder Wei Koh the Traditionelle Tourbillon Retrograde Date Open Face, a 41mm pink gold watch […]
Time+Tide
The Chopard L.U.C 1860 is a reissue of their first L.U.C watch, with many modern improvements The salmon dial is crafted from a gold plate, and does away with the unnecessary date display Chopard’s Lucent steel is made from 80% recycled material, and is also harder and brighter than regular stainless steel Chopard’s first wristwatch … ContinuedThe post The Chopard L.U.C 1860 is a reissue of the very first L.U.C appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
For Watches & Wonders 2023, IWC have introduced three new references of IWC Pilot’s Watch Chronograph 41. Among the new trio are new cases in Oceana blue ceramic and 18k 5N gold. The Big Pilot’s Watch Perpetual Calendar is also now available with a racing green dial. IWC releasing more variety of Pilot’s Watches should … ContinuedThe post IWC’s Pilot’s Watch line-up gets four new additions appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
New calendar module debuts in the IWC Portofino Complete Calendar Available in stainless steel or 18k 5N gold IWC also introduces a new Portofino Pointer Date in 39mm If I asked what the first watch you think of is when I say IWC, I wonder how many would name the Portofino. I certainly wouldn’t, but … ContinuedThe post The IWC Portofino Complete Calendar features an exciting brand first appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Having teased about a new innovation on social media for several weeks, specifically a “tiny device” that would be a game-changer for the Speedmaster, Omega has finally revealed the Speedmaster Super Racing. But the star of the show is not the watch but actually the technology in the all-new silicon hairspring within the latest Speedmaster. Known as Spirate, a portmanteau of “silicon” and “rate”, the new hairspring has a proprietary form that allows a watchmaker to vary the tension along its length, theoretically enabling fine adjustment of up to a tenth of a second. The result is a watch certified to have a daily rate of 0/+2 seconds, the most stringent timekeeping criteria amongst Omega watches. Initial thoughts While it is a given that Omega debuts a new Speedmaster every year, several of them at a go in fact, the revolutionary innovation in the hairspring was unexpected (though anyone who was trawling the Swiss patent registry would have gotten some hints). The patented Spirate hairspring The technical innovation behind Spirate is unquestionable, though the benefit to the wearer is probably less than the advantage it brings Omega in terms of streamlining regulation during production and assembly. And when Omega starts equipping its offerings with Spirate on a large scale, it will be an achievement from the perspective of industrial production. As for the Speedmaster Super Racing itself, well, the watch is less than spectacular. Visually it’s sim...
Hodinkee
Oren Hartov, watch writer and fourth-generation veteran, has a question. Can a solid-gold dress watch also be a military watch?
SJX Watches
Created for the 50th anniversary of Cortina Watch, which is also marking the occasion with a special Patek Philippe Calatrava, the Fifty Fathoms Bathyscaphe Cortina Watch 50th Anniversary is an elegantly different take on Blancpain’s vintage-inspired dive watch. With a titanium case matched with a bezel and crown in fade-resistant Sedna gold, the Cortina edition dresses up the functional style of the ordinarily no-frills Bathyscaphe. Originally launched in 2013 as the entry-level – and most compact – model in the Fifty Fathoms collection, the Bathyscaphe was previously only available in single materials, making this two-tone version a first. In fact, the Bathyscaphe Cortina the first Blancpain dive watch with a bi-metal case, but it’ll probably not be the last since the combination is appealing. The hands and hour indices are also 18k Sedna gold Initial thoughts The Bathyscaphe is a handsome watch that has good proportions. It doesn’t feel as large as it measures and wears well. And it is especially lightweight in titanium, so it sits easily on the wrist. In its original variants the Bathyscaphe is muted (in either the steel, ceramic, or titanium versions), or expensive and shiny (in Sedna gold). The Cortina edition is a useful variation on the theme that’s still restrained, but with a little bit of shine. The Sedna gold accents work especially well on the watch because of its retro style. They bring to mind vintage dive watches with “gilt” dials. Admit...
SJX Watches
While lesser known than wristwatches like the Tank and Crash, the mystery clock is as quintessentially Cartier as its wristwatch counterparts. Bonhams’ upcoming Hong Kong auction includes a prime example of the classic Cartier “Model A” mystery clock. The first type of mystery clock developed by Cartier, the Model A, made its debut in 1912 and the first example was sold to banker J. Pierpont Morgan. Compact but striking in its details and transparency, the Model A is essentially a block of rock crystal sitting on a mineral stone base with accents of gold, enamel, and diamonds. This example that will go on the block at Bonhams dates to 1928 and sits on an onyx base. The mystery clock, however, wasn’t invented at Cartier. Instead the clock with floating hands was conceived by Maurice Coüet, a clockmaker who was first a supplier to Cartier before joining the jeweller. Coüet in turn was inspired by the work of 19th century clockmaker-turned-magician Jean-Eugène Robert-Houdin, the inventor of the mystery clock concept. The Model A is a two-axis mystery clock with the driving pinions for the hands hidden in each column of the frame Notably, the Model A clock is being sold to benefit an Australian conservation non-profit, thanks to the late Antony Coote, a farmer and businessman whose family formerly controlled Angus & Coote, a storied name in Australian retail that was once the biggest jeweller in the country. After selling his family’s stake in 2006, Coote turn...
Time+Tide
Ineichen Auctioneers are known for their thematic auctions, whether it’s focusing on blue dials for “Precious Blues” or the rose-gold themed “La Vie en Rose” auction earlier this year. They also have a pioneering spirit – their most recent Joker XXX auction consisted of a three-piece set including a piece unique watch, Porsche 911, and … ContinuedThe post My 5 favourite lots from the Ineichen Royal 50 auction on May 28 – with no buyer’s premium! appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Of Omega’s novelties for the year (which include a 6000 m dive watch and solid-gold Speedmaster Moonwatch) the Seamaster Aqua Terra is the most affordable while also offering the widest range in terms of style and size. The brand has just taken the covers off the latest Aqua Terra range made up of ten watches evenly divided into 34 mm and 38 mm cases, but all in vibrant, upbeat colours. The 34 mm model with a Lagoon Green dial Initial thoughts In terms of intrinsic appeal, the latest Aqua Terras are a wonderful addition to the line up. They show that Omega has begun to loosen up in terms of dial colours and style, which will no doubt help widen its audience. Another point of appeal is the dial finish. While the colours are bright, they aren’t in-your-face thanks to a brushed finish. And the 34 mm model also sports more rounded forms for the hands and hour markers that give it a more elegant feel. Overall, it makes for a versatile watch that’s not too sporty. And it’s also good news Omega has done away with the linear motif inspired by the wood decks of a sailboat that was long synonymous with the Aqua Terra. The 34 mm quintet That said, the collection immediately call to mind the Oyster Perpetual from 2020 that was an instant hit thanks to its range of colourful, lacquered dials. That leaves the new Aqua Terra feeling like a trend follower rather than trendsetter. Only time will tell whether this approach is conducive to the positioning of the brand. (To be fair,...
Time+Tide
As Michael Caine went from strength to strength in the 1970s, he was frequently pictured with a gold Rolex. I’ve written before about my love for the Day-Date on a leather strap that he wore in Get Carter. But Caine also showed his forward-thinking mindset by also snapping up this 18K gold Oysterquartz Day-Date, which … ContinuedThe post Michael Caine’s Rolex Oysterquartz Day-Date sells for £125,000 at auction appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
While a pioneer in luxury-sports watches with its gold-meets-rubber models of the 1980s, Hublot is a relatively new arrival to the world of luxury-sports watches with an integrated bracelet – with its opening act being the flyback chronograph of 2020. Now a simple, fuss-free version joins the line up. At LVMH Watch Week 2022 the brand has taken the covers off the Big Bang Integral Time Only, which has an integrated bracelet naturally, but also is the most compact men’s Big Bang to date at 40 mm wide. And in typical Hublot style, the new Time Only is available in a trio of materials, none of which is steel but instead titanium, ceramic, or yellow gold. Initial thoughts It’s great to see Hublot adapt its products to accommodate demand for small(er) watches, especially since the Big Bang has always been, well, big. The trimmer size of the Time Only brings it closer to the dimensions of the traditional luxury-sports watches, which are essentially elaborate bracelets that tell time. Despite its uncharacteristically smaller proportions, the new Time Only is still very much a Hublot. It manages to capture the Hublot style in both design and materials, while avoiding some of the cliches of the integrated-sports watch category, namely a patterned dial or a case and bracelet in steel. The most obvious difference between the Time Only and the typical integrated-bracelet sport watch is the dial. Doing away with the dial altogether and exposing the movement underneath leaves it ...
Hodinkee
Chopard is one of the few brands out there that can boast both being independent and having a storied history, but many watch enthusiasts don't realize that Chopard is producing truly in-house movements to an extremely high level in the hills of Fleurier while also making its own cases and smelting its own gold back in Geneva. There are actually three facilities across Switzerland that make up the Chopard manufacture family and here we take you on a tour through all three.
SJX Watches
First introduced in 2012 in the L.U.C 8HF, Chopard’s proprietary escapement was notable for being ultra-high frequency, running at twice the speed of a conventional escapement, and also one of the first such escapements to make it to serial production. But whatever the merits, the brand’s past high-frequency watches were a mixed bag in terms of design, and for that reason the brand’s technical accomplishment never gained the recognition it deserved. But now the 8 Hz escapement finally arrives in an appealing package, the Alpine Eagle Cadence 8HF. Initial thoughts The new Alpine Eagle is an unusual combination of a luxury-sports watch and an interesting movement with a novel escapement that runs at twice the normal speed. Like the standard version of the Alpine Eagle, the Cadence 8HF is finished to an impressively high level on the case and bracelet. That’s especially more impressive given that it’s entirely titanium, instead of steel. The design does come in for some minor criticism – the polished centre links of the bracelet are too narrow – but it is still good looking. And the Cadence 8HF has a cleaned up dial, which adds to the appeal. While impressive technically, the movement isn’t too much to look at, since the finishing is workmanlike and monochromatic. That said, the movement’s aesthetics suit the style (and price) of the watch perfectly. The Cadence 8HF is almost 50% more expensive than the regular model in steel – but it’s worth the stretc...
Quill & Pad
Of all the watches extoling the virtues of the mechanical movement, no other piece does it as simply, cleanly, or in as straightforward a manner as the Corum Golden Bridge. The 10-year-anniversary version of the Golden Bridge Automatic sees some aesthetic changes made to its avant-garde case, and in particular the iconic sapphire crystal.
SJX Watches
Inspired by a mid-century gentleman’s watches, the Trésor is a newish sub-collection of Omega’s longstanding De Ville line. Just announced alongside the new Seamaster 300, the latest addition to the range is the De Ville Trésor Small Seconds, the most pared-back version to date. Also new is the slightly more complicated, but equally elegant, De Ville Trésor Power Reserve. Tresor Small Seconds (left) in Sedna gold, and Tresor Power Reserve in yellow gold Initial thoughts The new Trésor is unique in Omega’s catalogue for its movement and dial. It’s one of the very few Omega watches without a rotor, with the other more famous model that’s also hand wind being the Speedmaster Moonwatch. The manual-wind movement is apt, feeling at home on a dress watch and well suited for its vintage-inspired style of the Trésor. The cal. 8927 in the Small Seconds The new models illustrate the improving design of the Trésor line up, at least for watch enthusiasts who appreciate traditional design. The model range started with a format familiar for Omega – centre seconds and the date at six – but the new Trésor is focused, with all superfluous functions removed. Also gone is the patterned dial, giving the watch a cleaner appearance. With its simpler aesthetic, the new models gain a stronger identity, differentiating the Trésor from the rest of the catalogue, and even its fellow De Ville watches. Though the new design is progress, it’s still not perfect, yet. The desig...
SJX Watches
Originally introduced in pricier precious metals – in gold and also platinum – the Slim d’Hermès Quantième Perpétuel has been given a makeover that renders it more affordable, and arguably more striking. And like last year’s time-only Slim d’Hermès, the key feature is a titanium case. The new perpetual calendar features a twin-metal case made up of a titanium middle along with the bezel, crown, and pushers in either rose gold or platinum. That, combined with the two-tone grey dial, gives it a modern look that goes well with the Slim d’Hermès font that was designed specifically for the model. The Slim d’Hermes font was created by graphic designer Philippe Apeloig to go with the eponymous watch Initial thoughts Hermes’ house style is always elegant, often quirky, and usually distinctive. Already the Slim d’Hermes design is slim and wears well, and probably slightly better in this iteration since the use of titanium would reduce reduce its weight. A simple design characterised by clean lines, the Slim d’Hermes is recognisable in all its iterations thanks to its smart details, like the angled lugs and custom typography. Though the layout of the perpetual calendar is fairly conventional – everything is arranged into four sub-dials – it manages to be slightly unusual thanks to the seemingly random armament of numerals for the second time zone at six, a minor, offbeat detail that is in keeping with the brand’s style. The titanium-and-platinum versi...
Time+Tide
One of the most interesting things about the Coronavirus pandemic is how everyone has had to adapt to the new norm. Social distancing, working from home, Zoom catch-ups and stockpiling booze and toilet paper like it’s gold bullion. All part of a day’s work in 2020. It’s also been fascinating and, for the most part, … ContinuedThe post Hublot and Ferrari create new Esports series with Assetto Corsa, and a little help from their friend, Charles Leclerc appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
To even the most casual Time+Tide reader, the Rado Captain Cook is likely to be a known quantity. A strong, stainless steel, vintage-inspired design, backed up by a reliable modern movement in a range of sizes … all true, but that’s no longer the extent of it. For the first time, we can now add … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The Rado Captain Cook Bronze is going to stay golden, care of its copper alloy appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
A staple of Blancpain line-up since the brand was reestablished in the early 1980s, the extra-slim Villeret wristwatch is stripped to the bare essentials but classically-styled, and it’s now available in stainless steel, and also red gold. Understated and thin, the Villeret Ultraplate 6224 is an automatic three-hander with a date display, and just over 8 mm thick, hence the name – ultra plate translates as “ultra flat”. Initial thoughts Reminiscent of classic dress watches like the Patek Philippe Calatrava and the A. Lange & Söhne Saxonia Thin, the Villeret Ultraplate is a simple design that’s easy to replicate, which is why similar styles can be found in cheap as well as expensive watches. What differentiates such watches is the quality of execution, particularly in the details. The dial of the Villeret Ultraplate is unadorned, and almost plain, but the Roman numerals are solid gold appliqués affixed to the dial by hand, adding much-needed height and texture to an otherwise flat dial. The slender, open-worked leaf hands also complement the simplicity of the design. Such hands are not overly common, making them appealing. And then there’s the date. While it adds extra utility that is appreciated by some, I am not a fan. The date hampers the purity and symmetry of the dial. With a retail price of a bit over US$8,000 in steel, the Villeret Ultraplate is competitively priced for a dress watch powered by a high-end, automatic movement. Extra-thin The case is ...
SJX Watches
One of the most fashionable watches of the late 1980s and 1990s was the Breitling Chronomat with the distinctive Rouleaux bracelet, specifically the two-tone, steel-and-yellow-gold model with a dark blue dial. The watch of choice for assorted air force squadrons, the Chronomat was also spotted on major Hollywood stars of the era, most prominently Jerry Seinfeld and Bruce Willis. Breitling’s supercharged success after the Quartz Crisis – having been rescued by Swiss entrepreneur Ernest Schneider – was largely down to the Chronomat. Now the Chronomat on the Rouleaux bracelet is making its comeback, after having been discontinued several years ago. Abandoning the styling of recent, unsuccessful facelifts, the new Chronomat B01 42 returns with a tightly-executed design that incorporates several elements of the 1990s classic. A historic hit Launched to mark the 100th anniversary of Breitling in 1984, the Chronomat marked the brand’s return to mechanical watches. In 1979, the late Ernest Schneider took over an ailing Breitling, which until was then making mostly quartz watches with a military flavour. Having delivered the inaugural version of the Chronomat to members of Frecce Tricolori, the aerobatic team of the Italian air force, Schneider had a hit on his hands once the Chronomat was sold to the public. A page from the 1987 Breitling catalogue showing several versions of the Chronomat Though it had the same name as a vintage Breitling chronograph, the Chronomat l...
Time+Tide
Editor’s note: With so much attention and speculation surrounding the all-steel variants of Audemars Piguet’s Royal Oak 15400 and now 15500, it’s easy to forget that the Holy Trinity watchmaker also offers their most prized timepiece in two-tone steel and 18k Pink Gold. And while it’s easy to comprehend why the stainless steel variants are … ContinuedThe post Rediscovering the Audemars Piguet Two-Tone Royal Oak 15400 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Launched last year in steel with a blue or silver dial (and also in 18k rose gold), the Vacheron Constantin Overseas Dual Time is now available in the most obvious dial colour – black. Though not readily discernible in photos, the new black dial is made up of glossy, translucent black lacquer over a sunburst-brushed surface, giving it a slightly nuanced colour that’s similar to that found on the Overseas Perpetual Calendar with a blue lacquer dial. And because the minute track is printed on a matte, granular chapter ring, the result is a subtle, two-tone dial. Dial aside the watch is identical to the earlier Overseas Dual Time. Home time is indicated by a red-tipped hour hand in the centre, which is in turn linked to the day and night display at nine o’clock. The second time zone is set via the crown, but the quickset corrector for the date function is operated via a screw-down pusher at four o’clock. It’s powered by the 5110 DT, a variation of the brand’s workhorse automatic movement that is widely used throughout the Overseas line. As with all Overseas watches, the 5110 DT has a solid gold rotor cast in the form of a compass rose. The under-dial view of the movement, showing the levers and springs that control the day and night display (at 10 o’clock), and the date (at four o’clock) And the case includes the quick-release strap mechanism that’s standard across the Overseas range. A small tab easily releases the bracelet or strap, allowing for a rapid s...
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