Deployant
New: David Candaux DC12 MaveriK - innovation from Le Soliat
David Candaux releases his next watch the DC12 MaveriK, with two balance wheels driven by a differential, and protected by three patents.
Results for Three-Quarter Plate (3/4-Platine)
2,680 articles · 39 videos found · page 42 of 91
Deployant
Monochrome
Introducing - The New March LA-B Mansart Small Second Collection
March LA-B is a French brand with a characterful design language, founded in 2008 by three close friends – Alain Marhic, Jérôme Mage and Joseph Châtel – fusing French horological heritage and Los Angeles design culture. The watches are original and full of character, fairly accessible and, for most of them, rely on a distinctive […]
SJX Watches
In-Depth: Girard-Perregaux Debuts All-New Automatic Calibre
Girard-Perregaux (GP) has just taken the covers off a new in-house movement that will serve as a versatile platform for the brand, the Girard-Perregaux GP4800. Historically a significant producer of automatic movements, GP marks a milestone with the new, high-performance base movement that will gradually replace the 3000 family of movements that was once a workhorse employed by several high-end brands. Initial thoughts GP’s most famous creations are undoubtedly the historical Tourbillon with Three Gold Bridges and the more recent Constant Escapement. Significant as they may be, neither illustrates the brand’s past strength as a manufacture in the early decades of contemporary watchmaking post-Quartz Crisis, in particular GP’s position as a leading supplier of automatic movements. It all began with the 3000 family of calibres introduced in 1994. Desirable for its slimness and high performance – the 3000 series was sub-3 mm thick while ticking at 4 Hz – this versatile platform served not only as a base for many of the brand’s own timepieces, but also powered well-known watches made by a number of prominent brands, including Cartier, Daniel Roth, Vacheron Constantin, and even MB&F;. A GP3000 found in the MB&F; HM2 And then inverted in the MB&F; HM8 Mark 2 The new GP4800 is clearly meant to replace the venerable-yet-aging 3000-series. Boasting a modern architecture and fine technical chops, the GP4800 is a step towards reclaiming GP’s past success as a movement ma...
Time+Tide
This Gerald Charles Masterlink Gem Set trio tributes the piece unique that started it all
A piece unique Gérald Genta created for the Royal Family of Sarawak is tributed by three new Gerald Charles Masterlink Gem Set watches.The post This Gerald Charles Masterlink Gem Set trio tributes the piece unique that started it all appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Grand Seiko Goes Gold
Grand Seiko has unveils three gold Spring Drive models with the new 9RA2 movement, the Japan-only Heritage Collection SLGA030, SLGA027 and SLGA028, in rose, white, and yellow gold respectively. The new collection benefits from a slimmer case, a longer power reserve, and some new dials to go with the satisfying heft of a full 18k gold bracelet that weighs in at almost 200 g. SLGA030 in rose gold. Initial Thoughts While mostly unknown outside Japan, a trio of gold Spring Drive models in 44GS-style cases on full gold bracelets were a staple of the domestic Grand Seiko catalog for nearly a decade, powered by the cal. 9R15 that was once the brand’s finest automatic Spring Drive movement. While identical to the cal. 9R65, save for a gold medallion on the rotor, Seiko set aside the best performing quartz timing packages for these special movements. The earlier generation of all-gold models, from left to right: SBGA364, SBGA361, and SBGA362. Grand Seiko has decided that now is the time to refresh the line with the upgraded cal. 9RA2, while preserving the heavyweight gravitas and luxurious bracelet of its predecessor. I have anticipated these watches since the second generation of Spring Drive movements launched in 2020; it took five years, but the result meets my expectations, though I would have liked a gold winding weight to match the case material. Selling watches on full precious metal bracelets in this segment is a mark of a strong brand. Gold prices and luxury margins bein...
Fratello
Fratello’s Top 5 Watches Under €1,000 From Big Brands
Another Friday, another list! We return to a series of budget-related lists after focusing on Geneva Watch Days for two weeks and finding the best collabs last week. Today, we’re starting another three-list series focusing on budget-friendly watches. Not too long ago, we compiled a trio of lists covering the best available picks under €500. […] Visit Fratello’s Top 5 Watches Under €1,000 From Big Brands to read the full article.
SJX Watches
Trilobe Takes Up the Mantle of French Watchmaking with the Trente-Deux
Best known for its signature time display comprised of three off-center discs, Trilobe has introduced its first sport watch, the Trente-Deux. It’s yet another sports watch with an integrated bracelet, but the Trente-Deux is more notable for being the debut platform for the new X-Nihilo caliber, which for movement geeks will overshadow the launch of the new collection itself. The X-Nihilo is a relatively simple automatic caliber, and many of its components are produced in Trilobe’s own newly established CNC workshop near the French capital. It remains to be seen whether this domestic manufacturing initiative will prove viable long-term; the recent past is full of false starts aimed at rebuilding the French watchmaking industry. Initial thoughts I admit a certain fascination for watches without hands, that indicate the time with jumping windows, wandering displays, and revolving discs. The Trente-Deux, like the brand’s other watches, is an example of the latter. The hour is read at the top of the dial, using the logo as a pointer. The minutes slip by through a window in the dial, and the seconds disc rotates around a central hub embellished with stamped Clous de Paris. The asymmetrical layout is visually compelling and results in a pleasing amount of negative space that somehow doesn’t feel empty. This might be due to the sunray pattern, which emanates outward from the center of the seconds disc. In terms of colour, grey and navy blue are safe, pragmatic choices tha...
Hodinkee
Breaking News: Vacheron Constantin's 270th Anniversary Masterpiece, La Quête Du Temps Clock With Automaton
At three-and-a-half feet tall, 550 pounds, with 23 horological complications, 6,293 total components, two musical instruments, and an automaton, it is the centerpiece of a new exhibition at the Louvre.
Teddy Baldassarre
Seiko Prospex SPB143 Review
The Seiko Prospex SPB143 debuted back in 2020, alongside three other dive watches that represented a modern reimagining of the classic 62MAS from 1965. These were warmly received, in part due to their smaller case sizes and relatively accessible price points at a time when those two issues were beginning to become regular sticking points for enthusiasts. The SPB143 that I am reviewing here has gone on to become a beloved staple in Seiko’s higher-end Seiko Luxe family, due to just how much it offers for the $1,200 price tag. This mechanical dive watch has real vintage roots and while it isn’t perfect, represents how Seiko really has the ability to dominate this category. It’s not easy to stand out as a Seiko diver, considering how many iconic collections we have from the brand that brought us the Turtle, Marinemaster, Tuna, SKX, and others. But, by sticking to the best aspects of the 62MAS while incorporating state-of-the-art machining and manufacturing capabilities, Seiko hit it out of the park with the SPB143. Before I get into the nitty gritty of the watch, let’s take a brief look at the history it’s drawing from. The Seiko 62MAS Connection Though the story of the 62MAS has been told countless times at this point, it remains foundational to understanding the SPB143. Back in 1965, Seiko released its -and indeed Japan’s - first dive watch, which was the 62MAS. This watch was water-resistant to 150 meters and was put through its paces when crew members of th...
Teddy Baldassarre
Lug-to-Lug Explained: The Most Important Watch Sizing
Many factors go into the purchase of a new watch - from pricing to colorway to the choice of movement and materials - but perhaps none are more make-or-break for most consumers than sizing. Watches, of course, being three-dimensional objects, there are multiple areas of measurement to consider, though most watch brands tend to narrow it down to the two most basic: the diameter (or in the case of non-round watches, the dimensions) of the main case and the case’s overall thickness, i.e. how high it will rise on the wrist. However, neither of these accounts fully for how large or small the watch will wear on the wrist. For that, you will need the lug-to-lug measurement, sometimes referred to more simply as the “length,” with the diameter deemed in shorthand as the “width.” The lugs, sometimes called “horns,” are the protruding parts of the case that connect it to the bracelet or strap. The distance from the tip of the top lugs to the tip of the bottom lugs is perhaps the most important factor that affects not only how large the watch “wears” on the wrist but also how comfortable it is. (This measurement should not be confused with another occasionally listed stat, the “lug width.” The latter, which is perhaps most useful for those looking to swap out other straps or bracelets on their watch, refers to the distance between the lugs on each side of the case, i.e., the span in which the strap or bracelet fits inside them. If a watch has a lug width of...
Worn & Wound
A History and Guide to Laco
Located in the southwest of Germany in Baden-Württemburg, Pforzheim is built at the confluence of three rivers. In the eighteenth century, the city became a hub of jewelry making, with watchmaking experiencing a pronounced revival in the early twentieth century, resulting in Pforzheim’s nickname of the “Goldstadt,” or “Golden City.” Founded by Frieda Lacher and Ludwig Hummel in 1925, Lacher & Co., today known as Laco Uhrenmanufaktur GmbH, played a significant role in this expansion of German watchmaking. Their aim was simple - produce watches of quality and reliability. The pair split a few years later, with Hummel remaining with the watch production side. While many German watchmakers relied on Swiss movements, Hummel chose a different direction. He founded Deutsche Uhren Roh Werke (Durowe) in 1933, dedicated to the manufacture of movements to become independent from Swiss calibers. Located in the southwest of Germany in Baden-Württemburg, Pforzheim is built at the confluence of three rivers. In the eighteenth century, the city became a hub of jewelry making, with watchmaking experiencing a pronounced revival in the early twentieth century, resulting in Pforzheim’s nickname of the “Goldstadt,” or “Golden City.” Founded by Frieda Lacher and Ludwig Hummel in 1925, Lacher & Co., today known as Laco Uhrenmanufaktur GmbH, played a significant role in this expansion of German watchmaking. Their aim was simple - produce watches of quality and reliabilit...
SJX Watches
Breguet’s Finest World Time Yet to Celebrate 250 Years
Breguet’s quarter-millennial celebrations continue with the Marine Hora Mundi 5555, a reprise of the unique piece created for Only Watch two years ago. The world time wristwatch now returns with a phosphorescent enamel dial – that is notably grand feu on sapphire crystal – and a case in “Breguet Gold”. While the attire is new, the Hora Mundi 5555 still retains the clever movement that has a world time function that is instantaneously switchable between two pre-set time zones and unique amongst travel watches. Initial Thoughts Breguet facelifted the aging Marine line starting about eight years ago, but the integrated bracelet design language still feels fresh, though arguably remains unproven compared to long-established peers in the luxury sports watch segment. The Marine Équation Marchante 5887, which introduced the new look, leaned heavily on its excellent movement – it’s perhaps the best equation of time complication yet made – as a crutch supporting an experimental design. More practical and simpler models followed; the Marine Hora Mundi is certainly practical but not simple. The Marine Hora Mundi 5555 is likewise powered by an impressive movement, and one incorporating a complication apt for a sports watch, but the watch also has a metiers d’art distinction with its enamel dial. That is unusual for a sports watch, but the Marine is an unusual sports watch. The enamelling itself is even more unusual, done on sapphire using phosphorescent pigments, ...
Fratello
Introducing: The Gerald Charles Masterlink Gem-Set - A Colorful Take On The Brand’s Emblematic Model
Gerald Charles introduces a colorful twist on its emblematic design with the Masterlink Gem-Set. For the very first time, the maison embraces gemsetting, bringing bright colors to the asymmetric case and integrated bracelet that define the model. The new Gerald Charles Masterlink Gem-Set comes in three versions, each limited to 10 pieces. Join me for […] Visit Introducing: The Gerald Charles Masterlink Gem-Set - A Colorful Take On The Brand’s Emblematic Model to read the full article.
Time+Tide
TAG Heuer goes extraterrestrial with the Carrera Astronomer (live pics)
TAG Heuer looks to reinvent the moonphase complication in a new sporty-chic aesthetic with three new models. The post TAG Heuer goes extraterrestrial with the Carrera Astronomer (live pics) appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Fratello
Introducing: The TAG Heuer Carrera Astronomer
For Geneva Watch Days 2025, TAG Heuer has brought a surprising number of new models. One of the favorites is the subject of this article. The Carrera Astronomer is a new addition to the lineup and is available in three references. As we’ll soon see, one is destined for serial production, while two are limited […] Visit Introducing: The TAG Heuer Carrera Astronomer to read the full article.
Quill & Pad
New Release: MB&F; Legacy Machine 101 EVO: LM101 Receives the EVO Treatment
In celebration of MB&F;’s 20th anniversary in 2025, two LM101 EVO editions are introduced in titanium, available with either a salmon or peacock green dial plate.
SJX Watches
Singer Reimagined Minds its Manners with the Caballero
Best known for its Agenhor-powered chronographs, Singer Reimagined has just released its first time-only watch, the Caballero. Inside is the Calibre-4 Solotempo representing another first, being the brand’s first proprietary movement. With four barrels powering the Caballero for six days, the Calibre-4’s distinctive architecture can be discerned from the front thanks to jewel portholes in the dial. Spanish for “gentleman”, the Caballero is available in three colourways; the piano black and empire green colours are familiar from the Heritage Collection chronographs, but the petrol blue colour is new for the brand. Though not strictly a limited edition, the watches will be rare enough, assembled in small quantities at the brand’s atelier in central Geneva. Initial thoughts There tends to be a lot of crossover between the worlds of horology and high-end cars. Fans of the latter are no-doubt familiar with Singer Vehicle Design, which has made a name for itself restoring and modifying vintage Porsche 911s – specifically the 964 of the early 1990s – elevating the model to a standard that would have been impractical in its own time. The watchmaking arm, which operates as an independent sister company, has been quietly making interesting watches since 2017, largely focused on vintage motorsport themes. For the Caballero, this inspiration is conveyed most prominently by the golden needle hub that covers up the base of the hand stack, similar to those used by vintage a...
Time+Tide
Earthen introduces a trio of ceramic-cased watches that cost just US$899
Three configurations, all in 38mm ceramic cases, Miyota-driven, and less than 1k USD!The post Earthen introduces a trio of ceramic-cased watches that cost just US$899 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Fratello
Fears Introduces A Trio Of New Watches: The Brunswick 38 Charcoal Rose, Brunswick 40.5 Jump Hour Barleycorn, And Redcliff 39.5 Date ES
For many, summer vacation is usually a time to travel, relax, and recharge for the second half of the year. Well, not for the people at Fears, it seems. The British brand introduces not one, not two, but three new watches today. The new Brunswick 38 Charcoal Rose has a textured black and rose gold […] Visit Fears Introduces A Trio Of New Watches: The Brunswick 38 Charcoal Rose, Brunswick 40.5 Jump Hour Barleycorn, And Redcliff 39.5 Date ES to read the full article.
Fratello
Introducing: The 45mm Roger Dubuis Excalibur Spider Flyback Chronograph In Pink Gold And Black DLC Titanium
The first three iterations of the Roger Dubuis Excalibur Spider Flyback Chronograph were essentially watch equivalents of hypercars. Those chronographs, made of high-tech materials and unapologetically showing their highly tuned performance “engines,” came in bold, sporty colorways. The fourth version is different. Reference RDDBEX1138 comes in a pink gold and black DLC titanium case instead […] Visit Introducing: The 45mm Roger Dubuis Excalibur Spider Flyback Chronograph In Pink Gold And Black DLC Titanium to read the full article.
Worn & Wound
The Watch Preserve Brings Vintage to the Windup Watch Shop Brooklyn Showroom Aug 28, 29 & 30
Buying your first vintage watch is a little like stepping into a time machine. Every case has patina earned over decades, every dial tells a story of design choices made in another era, and every movement keeps time with the stubborn persistence of mechanical ingenuity. For three days this August, the Windup Watch Shop showroom in Brooklyn will become exactly that kind of space-an immersive experience curated by The Watch Preserve. Buying your first vintage watch is a little like stepping into a time machine. Every case has patina earned over decades, every dial tells a story of design choices made in another era, and every movement keeps time with the stubborn persistence of mechanical ingenuity. For three days this August, the Windup Watch Shop showroom in Brooklyn will become exactly that kind of space-an immersive experience curated by The Watch Preserve. The post The Watch Preserve Brings Vintage to the Windup Watch Shop Brooklyn Showroom Aug 28, 29 & 30 appeared first on Worn & Wound.
Fratello
Introducing: The M.A.D.1S “Grow Your Dreams” Water, Nature, And Sun - A Collaboration With Artist Yinka Ilori
Block September 2nd if you want to have a chance to wear a relatively affordable MB&F; collaboration watch on your wrist. On that day, at 2:00 PM CEST, the raffle for the M.A.D.1S “Grow Your Dreams” in three colorways will start. These M.A.D.Editions are the result of a collaboration with British-Nigerian artist and designer Yinka […] Visit Introducing: The M.A.D.1S “Grow Your Dreams” Water, Nature, And Sun - A Collaboration With Artist Yinka Ilori to read the full article.
SJX Watches
MB&F; Turns to Yinka Ilori for the M.A.D.1S ‘Grow Your Dreams’
The accessibly priced, MB&F;-adjacent wristwatch returns as the M.A.D.1S ‘Grow Your Dreams’, a collaboration with Yinka Ilori, a British designer known for applying bright colors to furniture, architecture, and interiors. With three kaleidoscopic colourways – Sun, Nature, and Water – the new M.A.D.1S leans into the maximalist trends of the day, which suits the M.A.D.Editions sub-brand, and MB&F; in general, like a glove. Initial Thoughts I’m reminded of the H. Moser & Cie. Elements of Time we covered just last week. Like with those, the M.A.D.1S ‘Grow Your Dreams’ is a series of thematic, limited edition collaborations sold via online raffle. And of the flavours on offer here, my favourite is again the Water variant. Collaborations like this can often feel like a one-way street, but that doesn’t feel like the case here. It’s good to know Yinka Ilori was an active participant in the watch’s design, personally designing the stylised numerals on the hour cylinder. I’ll also point out Mr Ilori is the model in all of these wrist shots. As for my thoughts on his work, I own some tableware he designed a few years back – which sits in my cupboard, seldom used but often admired. “Water” The M.A.D.1 series in general are dubious as a value proposition; though they are very affordable for an MB&F;-ish watch, they are pricey for the segment. But that misses the point – few are cross shopping these with similarly priced offerings from Tudor or Longines, or ev...
Teddy Baldassarre
Rolex Bracelet Types Explained
Rolex has made many lasting contributions to the world of watchmaking since its foundation in 1905, not the least of which has been an array of massively popular and widely emulated bracelet designs. Here we take a close look at every type of Rolex bracelet, what makes it special, and which Rolex watches, if any, are using them today. Rolex Oyster Bracelet Rolex’s iconic Oyster bracelet is the template from which many other three-link bracelet styles have been drawn. Its name comes from its association with the Oyster case - introduced by Rolex founder Hans Wilsdorf in 1926, and the most water-resistant watch case that had been made up to that point - and for which the original version of this bracelet served as an extension. Oyster bracelets are recognizable for their wide center links bordered by thinner end-links. Rolex patented the design in 1947 and fitted one on a watch in 1948. In the early versions, the links were riveted; these were phased out in favor of a “folding” style in 1967, which eventually gave way to the modern, solid-link style in 1975. Oyster bracelets come equipped with the accompanying Oysterlock clasp, a triple-deployant metal clasp with a safety-lock mechanism. Three-link bracelets like the Oyster and its various descendants are particularly popular on sports watches and dive watches, and this bracelet appears, as you’d expect on most of Rolex’s most popular “professional” models, including the Submariner, GMT-Master II, Explorer,...
SJX Watches
Prix Gaïa 2025 Awarded to Dr Helmut Crott for Scholarship
Awarded annually by the Musée International d’Horlogerie (MIH), one of Switzerland’s leading timekeeping museums, the Prix Gaïa recognises individuals who have contributed to watchmaking in three categories. This year’s winner in the “History [and] Research” category is Dr Helmut Crott. Best known for having founded the eponymous auction house, Dr Crott is also an author, scholar, and former owner of Urban Jürgensen, amongst other roles. In 2021 he authored Le Cadran, an in-depth study of dials and dial making techniques of 20th century wristwatches. Le Cadran by Dr Helmut Crott Past winners of the Prix Gaïa include Reinhard Meis, Jonathan Betts, Pierre-Yves Donzé, Kathleen Pritschard, and Ludwig Oechslin, all scholars and authors who have contributed substantively to the body of knowledge in the field. Alongside Dr Crott, this year’s winners are Jean-Jacques Paolini for “Entrepreneurship”, and Roger W. Smith for “Craftsmanship [and] Creation”. As the successor to Georges Daniels’ brand of English watchmaking, Mr Smith now produces watches under his own name, with his achievements and timepieces well known. Jean-Jacques Paolini Mr Paolini, on the other hand, is less known outside the industry, but he is arguably most responsible for building the enterprise that’s the largest employer in La Chaux-de-Fonds. In 1980, Mr Paolini took over his family’s case and bracelet manufacturing business, developing its operations sufficiently that it was acq...
Monochrome
Introducing - The Paulin Mara, The First Dive Watch by the Glasgow-Based Brand
Paulin Watches, founded in 2013 by three sisters and now part of anOrdain, has built its reputation on a bold, design-driven approach to watchmaking, characterised by distinctive typography and an original use of form and colour. With the Mara, the Glasgow-based brand takes a step into the world of professional watches, reimagining the diver through […]
Fratello
Introducing: The Orient Stretto 75th Anniversary Collection
Orient marks its 75th anniversary with a new line in the Contemporary Collection - the Orient Stretto. The series launches with six models, split between three limited editions and three regular-production watches. The commemorative trio highlights the milestone with anniversary logos and engravings, while the standard trio secures the Stretto’s place in the permanent collection. […] Visit Introducing: The Orient Stretto 75th Anniversary Collection to read the full article.
Fratello
A Hands-On Introduction To The New Unimatic Modello Uno ProDiver Collection
Unimatic has been busy introducing a string of clever new releases. Only last week, I did a hands-on review of the brand Modello Uno Heritage GMT Diver from a series of nice vintage-inspired models. Today, we get treated to a new trio of models who are taking a different road. The three Modello Uno ProDiver […] Visit A Hands-On Introduction To The New Unimatic Modello Uno ProDiver Collection to read the full article.
Fratello
Fratello’s Top 5 Favorite Watches Under €500 From Big Brands
Another Friday, another list! This week, we move on from the ongoing retrospective of the first six months of the year. It’s time to change the topic. This week, we kick off a trilogy of lists focusing on affordable watches. To be more specific, over the course of the next three weeks, we will look […] Visit Fratello’s Top 5 Favorite Watches Under €500 From Big Brands to read the full article.
Hodinkee
Introducing: A Trio Of Limited Edition Seiko Speedtimers Honoring The Datsun 240Z (And More)
In addition to the three limited editions, there are also three more standard production versions.