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Lug-to-Lug

The single most important wristwatch fit dimension, more practical than case diameter. Comfort thresholds and reference numbers.

Kari Voutilainen Steps Back at Urban Jürgensen SJX Watches
Urban Jürgensen Dec 25, 2025

Kari Voutilainen Steps Back at Urban Jürgensen

After four years leading the relaunch of Urban Jürgensen (UJ) alongside co-chief executive Alex Rosenfield, Kari Voutilainen is returning to the bench and dedicate his time to watchmaking and development, while Mr Rosenfeld will assume the role of sole chief executive. Despite this change, the relationship between Mr Voutilainen and UJ remains strong; he will still be involved, albeit in a more hands-off capacity as a shareholder, board member, and senior strategic advisor. From this vantage point, Mr Voutilainen, who has a long history with UJ, should retain substantial influence over the brand’s direction. Initial thoughts The news of Kari Voutilainen stepping back from day-to-day executive responsibilities at UJ seems natural, and was probably inevitable. Having gotten the relaunched brand into orbit, Mr Voutilainen is putting things in the hands of the team at UJ to carry on. Judging by the steady pace of deliveries so far this year, there’s plenty of reason to be optimistic about their capabilities. One reason this change seems natural is that it follows a similar move at Voutilainen earlier this month. Mr Voutilainen has been planning for the future and putting management teams in place to build a long-term business and free up more of his own capacity for working on new watches and movements. His daughter, Venla, is also stepping down from her role as chief operating officer at UJ in order to assist with the family business. Kari Voutilainen alongside recently ...

Year in Review: the Best Travel Watches of 2025 Worn & Wound
Seiko NH34 have made including Dec 24, 2025

Year in Review: the Best Travel Watches of 2025

Travel watches have been on the absolute rise in recent years. Where dive watches were once the default option for a first sports watch, GMTs, dual times, and world timers have been making a credible play for wrist time with enthusiasts of all strata. There are practical reasons for this - movements like the Miyota 9075 and Seiko NH34 have made including a GMT complication in a watch more affordable than ever - but I think practical reasons only scratch the surface of this precipitous rise. To tell the whole story, you have to look for the romantic. There’s an inherent appeal in travel watches. They’re optimistic and remind us to stay interested in the world even when we’re stuck at home, or work, or in the myopia of day-to-day life, when the little things around us stop us from looking further. I think this appeal was only reinforced by a mandatory two-year stay inside, at home, and I don’t think it’s by chance that our collective release back into the world post-COVID coincided with the rise of the travel watch. I mean, sure, in a world where our phones automatically adjust to new time zones, and most people’s preferred travel watch is an Apple Watch, mechanical travel watches (or, really, analog - there are some pretty stellar quartz offerings to be had, you don’t need to look further than the Timex Q Continental GMT for evidence of that) may be more talismanic than necessary, but I don’t think there’s anything wrong with that. So, with all that ...

Our Favorite Dressy Watches Of 2025 Teddy Baldassarre
Dec 24, 2025

Our Favorite Dressy Watches Of 2025

For a category often seen as a safe harbor for demure and conservative design, the dress watch regularly delivers some of the year’s most memorable releases and 2025 was no different. In fact, we had to do things a little different here by not having any honorable mentions altogether just because all of these pieces really shone. And one of my favorite decisions from our editorial team came together for this story when we decided to award two watches for their awe-inspiring executions of a gold Milanese bracelet. So, without further ado, here are our favorite dress watches of 2025: [toc-section heading="Raymond Weil Toccata Heritage"] Raymond Weil’s Toccata Heritage Seconde/Seconde edition is the fruits of a collaboration between the independent Swiss watchmaker and designer Romaric Andre, known for his playful customization of watch dials. This latest iteration of the brand’s oval-cased dress watch - its name drawn from the world of classical music, a passion of the brand’s eponymous founder - is described as a “horological Simon Says:” its dial is divided into two different shades of anthracite gray, with Dauphine hands in the center, each inscribed with fashion-forward “dress codes” on how to wear the watch. The right sector, with polished indexes, has vertically oriented guidelines on where the wearer’s shirt cuff should land in three different scenarios (business casual, formal, and semi-formal, plus the “sweet spot” halfway divider), while t...

Introducing: The Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Control Classic Fratello
Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Control Classic It’s Dec 24, 2025

Introducing: The Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Control Classic

It’s gifting season, and Jaeger-LeCoultre serves up a tantalizing prospect in the form of the Master Control Classic. Despite the 1950s aesthetic, the “Classic” in the name pays homage to early Master Control watches of the 1990s. This era is becoming a burgeoning nostalgia kick in the watch industry for buyers entering their 50s. Okay, […] Visit Introducing: The Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Control Classic to read the full article.

Year in Review: the Best “Money No Object” Watches of 2025 Worn & Wound
Richard Mille or Jacob & Co Dec 23, 2025

Year in Review: the Best “Money No Object” Watches of 2025

I’m long on record saying the mark of a genuine enthusiast is being able to get just as excited about a $100 Timex or G-Shock as about a $100,000 Rolex or Patek. I still think there’s something to that. Still, I also recognize that summing it up so patly, though convenient, ignores a huge amount of the nuance that undeniably exists in the watch space. It also ignores some of the fundamental impacts of price, including, crucially, attainability. After all, there are very few enthusiast pursuits (or, really, pursuits of any kind) where price and pursuit can be wholly siloed, and watches are not some rare example where we can afford to be price agnostic - at least, not most of us. Still, once in a while, it can be fun to just say screw it and enjoy watches for what they can be at their most extreme. Which brings us to the topic of today’s 2025 round-up, “F**k You Money” watches. The concept of a “F**k You Money” watch can be a bit nebulous. Unlike dive watches or chronographs, say, which either are or are not what they say they are, there’s no real set definition for what qualifies as “F**k You Money,” but like Supreme Court Justice Potter Stewart and pornography, I may not be able to specifically articulate what qualifies as a F**k You Money watch, but I know it when I see it. gérald genta Geneva Minute Repeater You thought I was gonna start with some crazy Richard Mille or Jacob & Co., didn’t you? Well, this probably isn’t going to be that kind of...

Year in Review: the Benefits of a Mobile Desk in a Travel Filled 2025 Worn & Wound
Casio n I’ve had Dec 23, 2025

Year in Review: the Benefits of a Mobile Desk in a Travel Filled 2025

I was recently looking back at the year with my husband and roughly calculated that I had been away from home on business two out of the last twelve months. Considering I have a full-time job and have hardly missed a deadline, this seems somewhat implausible. But, in reviewing my Google Calendar, it seems to be true: New York a handful of times, Germany twice, Mexico, New Orleans, Boston, Philadelphia…I can go on, but you get the idea. For me, I have maintained a love-hate relationship with travel. I love bragging about it on social media; but I hate having to work while away from my cozy little writing studio I keep in a nearby town. It’s stressful for me, having gotten into a routine of total silence and minimal distractions, to be filing an article from a hotel room with spotty Wifi or one too close to the elevator. And while it may seem glamorous to be tapping away about fashion week while waiting to board a plane, I can assure you I’ve been nearly brought to tears by my neighbor next to me watching a TikTok video without headphones – a level of hell that even Dante couldn’t have fathomed, if you ask me. But that’s the thing when you travel for work: you actually have to work while you’re traveling. And this is especially so for those in creative jobs, where missed deadlines, unanswered emails, and rushed articles can ultimately have an impact on your paycheck. On more than one occasion, I’ve had to buy WiFi on a flight (not expensed, mind you) to file ...

Fratello Favorites: The Best Watches Of 2025 - Mike’s Picks From Ming, Parmigiani Fleurier, Aquastar, And More Fratello
Parmigiani Fleurier Aquastar Dec 23, 2025

Fratello Favorites: The Best Watches Of 2025 - Mike’s Picks From Ming, Parmigiani Fleurier, Aquastar, And More

It’s hard to believe that we’re already looking back on the best watches of 2025. This year flew by! Still, there were a lot of releases, and, frankly, some were great. I stepped back from purchasing vintage watches this year and focused more on new pieces. The reason was clear: modern pieces made an impact […] Visit Fratello Favorites: The Best Watches Of 2025 - Mike’s Picks From Ming, Parmigiani Fleurier, Aquastar, And More to read the full article.

Complicated Collectors: Henry Graves Jr. SJX Watches
Dec 23, 2025

Complicated Collectors: Henry Graves Jr.

By the early 1930s, Henry Graves Jr lived a life shaped by precision, inheritance, and permanence. It was from this vantage - both social and literal - that he took up residence behind the limestone façade of 834 Fifth Avenue, Rosario Candela’s neo-Renaissance co-operative that replaced hulking mansions with what contemporary coverage called “a series of luxurious homes” in a building that was promised to be “a worthy and lasting landmark”. The promise held: in 2007 the New York Observer called the address “the most pedigreed building on the snobbiest street in the country’s most real estate–obsessed city.” This reputation was sustained in part by its prodigious roster of illustrious owners, from Berwind and Rockefeller to Murdoch and Blavatnik, names that reflect the same social altitude that drew Graves there in the first place. 834 Fifth Avenue where Henry Graves Jr. lived when he received the Supercomplication in 1933. Image – The New York Public Library/collage. From the window of his high apartment, Graves could watch the constellations lift over the dark mass of branches and the curving drives, the lamps along the park paths thinning as the air cleared towards the river. Inside, in a room lined with paintings and prints, a heavy yellow gold watch lay on a table. Opened on its reverse dial, it carried that same sky, compressed into enamel and gold, calculated for this exact latitude and this exact view. The Supercomplication framed the night ...

Best of 2025: Surprises and Unexpected Developments SJX Watches
Rolex Land-Dweller Dec 23, 2025

Best of 2025: Surprises and Unexpected Developments

From one-off artistic creations to new escapement technologies, 2025 delivered more than its share of surprises and unexpected developments. Brands with institutional research and development departments led the way with unexpected material breakthroughs, while Geneva’s oldest watchmaker surprised (and delighted) with a clock of astronomical proportions. Rolex Land-Dweller and Dynapulse Escapement - SJX Given its institutional nature, Rolex rarely surprises, but when it does, the brand does so in a big way. The Land-Dweller was unquestionably one of the biggest debuts from Rolex in a long time. The integrated bracelet design is certainly a departure from the prevailing house style, but the Land-Dweller is a landmark mainly for the movement inside, the cal. 7135 that boasts the Dynapulse escapement. While Rolex movements have enjoyed largely incremental improvements for years, the cal. 7135 in the Land-Dweller is a radical break because it’s an all-new movement with an all-new escapement. The Dynapulse escapement is one of the most forward-thinking inventions by Rolex, arguably ever. A double-wheel, detached and indirect-tangential impulse escapement, the Dynapulse is arguably among the most advanced escapements on the market today – and the cal. 7135 is probably the most precise self-winding movement on the market. More crucially, it is being produced at scale. A new escapement is an achievement, but a new escapement manufactured in large numbers is a bona fide fea...

Our Favorite Divers Of 2025 Teddy Baldassarre
Dec 22, 2025

Our Favorite Divers Of 2025

With 2025 coming to a close, the editorial team at Teddy is eager to share some of our favorite new releases of the year. We’ll be starting with one of the more competitive and popular categories out there: dive watches. Really any given year is a big year for divers but 2025 had some refreshed heavy hitters as well as some new entries that push the limits of watchmaking technology. We attempted to keep our final picks somewhat tight but there is, of course, a honorable mentions section at the end where we go through some notable new releases from the year. So, without further ado let’s get into our favorite new divers from 2025. [toc-section heading="Longines Legend Diver"]  The category of vintage-inspired divers has only gotten more competitive in recent years, but Longines has managed to deliver a truly wearable and memorable lineup with its Legend Diver collection. Fully refreshed and reimagined in 2024, this white dial take on the line is the latest addition to the family, and has become the missing piece to making the entire collection feel complete, well-rounded, and versatile. It feels right at home with its other family members, carrying on the 39mm diameter, and slim 12.7mm case profile that makes it easy to wear when you aren’t about to dive into the deep, though its 300 meters of water resistance means you very well can without worry. The mid-century design cues look particularly handsome with the crisp white backdrop of the dial, and, combined with the...

Best Mickey Mouse Watches: History and Highlights Teddy Baldassarre
Dec 22, 2025

Best Mickey Mouse Watches: History and Highlights

Mickey Mouse is one of the world’s most iconic and recognizable characters and the smiling face of Disney Entertainment, whose vast universe of properties today encompasses everything from Cinderella to Spider-Man to Star Wars. The world first discovered Mickey way back in 1928, in the groundbreaking  black-and-white cartoon Steamboat Willie. It was one of the very first cartoon films with synchronized sound and a milestone achievement for Mickey’s co-creator, Walt Disney, who had founded his eponymous animation studio with his brother Roy O. Disney five years earlier, in 1923. Today, that studio is a worldwide force in entertainment and Mickey Mouse’s image can be found on just about every type of merchandise you can imagine - including wristwatches from a surprisingly diverse range of producers and at a wide range of price points. Nearly a century after first appearing on a watch’s dial, Mickey Mouse continues to claim a small but enduringly popular niche in the world of horology. Here is a brief overview of Mickey Mouse watches from the 1930s to Disney’s centennial year of 2023. [toc-section heading="Ingersoll-Waterbury and the First Mickey Mouse Watch"]   Photo Credit: Secondhand Horology Mickey’s instant popularity with audiences was such that it was only five years after his debut that the character found himself on the dial of a wristwatch. The circumstances behind the creation of the first Mickey Mouse watch, produced by the American watchmaker Inge...

Year in Review: the Best New Brands of 2025 Worn & Wound
Dec 22, 2025

Year in Review: the Best New Brands of 2025

It’s hard to launch a watch brand. And yet, every year, new brands appear. It’s honestly tough to keep up sometimes, and when looking back at 2025, there seemed to be a flurry of new brands competing for our attention at all levels. It’s a truly crowded market, and in spite of the conventional wisdom that we’re moving towards consolidation, the reality on the ground for us is that there’s a surplus of good watches from new players out there to consider. More, in fact, than we can even cover. This is a selection of brands that broke through the noise in one way or another and impressed us in 2025, a difficult task when your inbox is overflowing with press releases and notifications of new stuff to check out. I’m quite certain I missed plenty of good stuff that will only resurface in 2026 when these brands will just be “new to me” and not simply “new,” but that’s an inescapable aspect of covering this industry – there’s simply never an end to the creativity and ingenuity of people drawn to the watch world.  Anemoic  This first brand immediately forces us to define our terms. Did Anemoic “debut” in 2025? It was the year that founder Magnus Swann began discussing the brand with members of the media and collectors, but they don’t actually have a watch to sell, and may never. It’s a design project from a member of the Studio Underd0g team, and it looks incredibly promising, but is also the type of thing that could vanish into the ether.  The ...

Introducing: Two Simply Irresistible 36.5mm Vacheron Constantin Traditionelle Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin Watches Fratello
Vacheron Constantin Traditionelle Perpetual Calendar Ultr... Dec 22, 2025

Introducing: Two Simply Irresistible 36.5mm Vacheron Constantin Traditionelle Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin Watches

The big trend is “small.” And “thin.” Well, those two words perfectly describe the new 36.5mm Vacheron Constantin Traditionelle Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin. Not only is the diameter a size “S,” but it also has an 8.43mm case thickness, making it worthy of the “Ultra-Thin” moniker. The pink gold version is the most modern of the […] Visit Introducing: Two Simply Irresistible 36.5mm Vacheron Constantin Traditionelle Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin Watches to read the full article.

Hands On: Ulysse Nardin UR-Freak SJX Watches
Ulysse Nardin UR-Freak One Dec 22, 2025

Hands On: Ulysse Nardin UR-Freak

One of the standout releases from Dubai Watch Week was the UR-Freak, a collaboration between Ulysse Nardin (UN) and Urwerk that embodies some of the most enduring motifs of each brand. More UN than Uwerk, the UR-Freak nonetheless incorporate’s the latter’s satellite wandering hours display, adapted to the Freak’s slow-moving flying tourbillon. A limited run of just 100 individually numbered pieces, the UR-Freak confers some of Urwerk’s disruptive cache to UN, a legacy brand celebrating its 180th anniversary next year. The wandering hours tourbillon To understand why the UR-Freak is such a compelling collaboration, one must understand what UN and Urwerk bring to the table, respectively. The UN Freak turns 25 in 2026, marking a quarter-century of the quirky tourbillon that introduced silicon to watchmaking. That innovation alone would have secured the Freak’s place in watchmaking history, but it was arguably more memorable for its unusual design that put much of the movement (including the escapement) on a rotating platform on the dial. The Freak One is an example of the typical Freak architecture. Ulysse Nardin refers to this architecture as a flying carousel, perhaps to differentiate the standard models from those with a nested tourbillon. Nomenclature aside, it’s technically a tourbillon by nature of its operation, which powers the escapement through a fixed-ring gear (which can be seen around the edge of the dial). In all previous Freak models to date, the mo...

Best of 2025: Value Propositions Below US$10,000 SJX Watches
Grand Seiko moved up beyond Dec 22, 2025

Best of 2025: Value Propositions Below US$10,000

It was a mixed year for affordable watches, led by segment stalwart Tudor. While appealing offerings from brands like Grand Seiko moved up beyond the US$10,000 mark, the gap was filled by a slate of interesting releases from so-called micro-brands. Here is a selection of affordable releases under US$10,000 that stood out this year. Tudor Ranger 36 - SJX I’m a fan of Tudor – I own several – because its watches are well made and priced even better. But the brand is increasingly appealing because of its gradual evolution towards enthusiast-friendly designs. The Ranger 36 illustrates that. The original Ranger was a little bit too large for this vintage-inspired design. Tudor doubtlessly received feedback to that effect. It took the brand a while, but now the 36 mm version is pretty much spot-on. The compact size fits the design well and the watch also feels good on the wrist. And because the case and bracelet are both entirely brushed, the Ranger 36 also has a low-key look that makes it a practical watch in almost any situation. The “dune white” dial is also a nice touch; it’s a nod to the “albino” dials found on some vintage sports watches (from Rolex rather than Tudor, but that’s a distinction without a difference for most of the brands’ histories). And importantly, the Ranger 36 is the most affordable Tudor with an in-house movement. It’s a solid entry into Tudor’s world of sports watches with high-spec movements. As an aside, Tudor clearly excels ...

Hands On With The TAG Heuer Connected E5: Keeping Us In Shape! WatchAdvice
TAG Heuer Connected E5 Keeping Us Dec 21, 2025

Hands On With The TAG Heuer Connected E5: Keeping Us In Shape!

We’ve got our hands on the new TAG Heuer Connected E5 to see how it works, and just what the benefits of owning a smart fitness watch are. What We Love The ergonomics and ease of wear The ability to customise the interface and displays Range of pre-set workouts and routines built in What We Don’t The 40mm is probably on the smaller side for some The battery life means you do need to charge it every day The interface is a little fiddly until you get used to where all the functions are Overall Score: 8 / 10 Value for Money: 7/10 Wearability: 8/10 Design: 9/10 Build Quality: 8/10 This is a slightly different review – TAG Heuer kindly lent us a new 40mm Connected E5, and given this is not your standard mechanical watch, we needed to get it out and about to test it. I love my fitness and gym, so it was the perfect watch to get on my wrist and put it through its paces while I hit the gym and went through their daily routine. I did lend this to Sam, and seems he was exhausted after 1m:15s run, but at least he burned 4 Calories! As this is a smart watch and somewhat different to the usual mechanical pieces on our wrists, I thought this was the best approach as it’s very hard to talk about the movement in a smart watch, however, the benefits of this watch is due to its functionality and practicality for people who want to keep on top of their health and fitness, those who have goals to achieve within their chosen field of sport and exercise. With this in mind, I really ...

Photo Report: Tudor Nazaré Big Wave Challenge 2025 Fratello
Tudor Nazaré Big Wave Challenge Dec 20, 2025

Photo Report: Tudor Nazaré Big Wave Challenge 2025

It’s late afternoon on a Thursday in mid-December when the call comes in: monsters are closing in on Nazaré. State-of-the-art satellite technology has detected the perfect kinetic sweep across the Atlantic, creating ideal conditions. This monster swell is heading straight for a small fishing village two hours north of Lisbon. But it’s not alone in […] Visit Photo Report: Tudor Nazaré Big Wave Challenge 2025 to read the full article.

Introducing: The Orient Star M45 F7 Mechanical Moon Phase Fratello
Orient Dec 20, 2025

Introducing: The Orient Star M45 F7 Mechanical Moon Phase

Orient Star unveils three new versions of its flagship F7 Mechanical Moon Phase. Dials in white and navy blue join the regular lineup, while the light blue dial is a limited edition of 190 pieces. Having debuted in 2017, the F7 Mechanical Moon Phase combines three striking elements. The namesake moon phase sits at 6 […] Visit Introducing: The Orient Star M45 F7 Mechanical Moon Phase to read the full article.

Interview: Sylvain Berneron on Building a Brand, and Rethinking Modern Watchmaking Worn & Wound
Cartier Crash but Dec 19, 2025

Interview: Sylvain Berneron on Building a Brand, and Rethinking Modern Watchmaking

Every few years, a new independent hits the scene with something that hits just the right notes to get all the factions of the watch world vibrating at the same frequency. However, no recent newcomer has managed to unite the watch echo chamber the way Swiss independent Berneron has.  When Berneron unveiled their debut offering, the Mirage, in 2023, it was universally lauded as the most intriguing and refreshing new watch seen in ages. The Mirage was a legitimately unique take on upscale watchmaking, with a striking aesthetic and design narrative as unexpected as its asymmetrical shape and wildly ambitious bespoke movement. The Mirage’s styling was initially met with comparisons to the Cartier Crash, but the reality is its melted case shape was an elegant solution for housing the watch’s impressive mechanics–a case shrink-wrapped around a new caliber that was designed from scratch, free from the rules of traditional movement design.  The Mirage was a helluva of a breakout hit; it had mystique, it was technically impressive, and it was different without resorting to arbitrary design choices. The Mirage’s success would be difficult to replicate, but with the Quantième, Berneron has both side-steped the sophomore slump and cemented the reputation of its founder and Creative Director Sylvain Berneron as a true visionary and a generational talent.  The Quantième applies Berneron’s virtuosic technicality to a watch that embraces a more traditional look than the Mir...