Hodinkee
Happenings: Yoni Ben-Yehuda To Lecture At The Horological Society Of New York
The Head of Watches at Material Good will lecture on the current watch market and what the future of watch collecting may look like.
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Hodinkee
The Head of Watches at Material Good will lecture on the current watch market and what the future of watch collecting may look like.
Teddy Baldassarre
Choosing a favorite Grand Seiko was bound to be one of the more difficult prompts we could give to the Teddy editorial team. One of the most beloved watch brands out there, Grand Seiko has been around since 1960 but only began distributing internationally in 2010 and didn’t become a truly independent brand until 2017. Old-timers will recall the days when it was truly difficult to get your hands on what is now the Japanese luxury watch giant. Ironically the SBGA211, aka the "Snowflake," didn’t make the list here, which actually says a lot about the sheer volume of excellent pieces Grand Seiko has released over the years. So let us get to our editors’ picks for their favorite Grand Seiko of all time and, as usual, make sure to share your own pick. Oh, and for the first time since we started doing these editors' picks, two team members individually landed on the same watch... Mark Bernardo: Godzilla 65th Anniversary Limited Edition Unlike many other choices for these Editor’s Picks lists, my favorite Grand Seiko timepiece was relatively easy to identify - because it is the watch with the most intriguing backstory as well as the type of pop-cultural, collaborative piece that the luxury brand is unlikely to ever make again. The Grand Seiko Godzilla 65th Anniversary Limited Edition, released in 2019, commemorated a pair of seemingly unrelated anniversaries that occurred that year: 65 years since the release of the original, iconic Godzilla movie by Toho Ltd. in 1954, a...
Worn & Wound
“Through constant emails, face-to-face requests at events, and in the comments of our social posts, it has been impossible to ignore the requests for this ‘Goldilocks’ case size. We are a brand that listens to our customers––you asked and we delivered.” –Christopher Ward’s CEO and Co-Founder Mike France It’s always refreshing when the feedback of the watch community is recognized by at least one company or representative within the watchmaking industry. To hear Mike France and Christopher Ward directly address their customer’s concerns is exactly what makes the microbrand/indie sphere so great. Whether you believe they’ve expanded beyond their microbrand status to “legacy micro,” “independent,” or some other higher level of categorization, the brand’s acknowledgement of customer input speaks volumes about their character and ability to take and utilize constructive criticism––perhaps a result of their humble beginnings as a true microbrand. After the critical acclaim the 36mm and 40mm Twelve models received, Christopher Ward is set to release a fresh take on their popular design with the new Twelve 38. The stainless-steel case, which made its limited edition debut last year in the “Ice Cream” collection, measures 38mm across, 43.3mm lug-to-lug, and 9.95mm thick, thanks to its ultra-slim Swiss-made Sellita SW200-1 movement. With 26 jewels, a smooth 4Hz beat rate, and a 38-hour power reserve, these reliable and durable automatic move...
Monochrome
Presented in 2023, the Bovet Virtuoso XI is a masterpiece of high watchmaking, combining exquisite skeletonization, intricate hand-engraving, and meticulous hand-finishing… without mentioning an in-house movement with flying tourbillon and solid 10-day power reserve. Following the release of the original white gold versions, this typically Bovet watch is now available in 18k red gold, with […]
Monochrome
The drum-shaped Tambour watch of 2002, Louis Vuitton’s first foray into high-end watchmaking, underwent a sea change in 2023 to become a player in the luxury sports watch sector. Equipped with an integrated bracelet and slimmed down, the new Tambour has appeared in sporty stainless steel and luxurious gold cases. Alongside the release of the […]
Worn & Wound
Sometimes we lose sight of the fact that our enthusiast romance associated with a mechanical movement can be another’s annoyance. Our beloved rituals of winding and setting, feeling the grinding clicks in your fingertips, and double-checking you’ve set it correctly can act as a barrier to entry for some, leaving a mechanical watch inside a dresser drawer. That is why I am a proponent of luxury brands exploring quartz calibers, particularly within their more popular collections. Removing that barrier and often lowering its price point means that the watch and the hobby as a whole can be accessed by more people, which is the ultimate goal, after all. All that being said, if a luxury brand is going to make a quartz watch and charge a luxury price, you have to make it a good one. Stepping off of my soap box, I’ll happily admit that when TAG Heuer released the Aquaracer with a solar quartz caliber inside, I too scoffed at the price and questioned its purpose. While the design language spoke to me with its warmly hued titanium construction and tasteful accents, I just didn’t understand why TAG Heuer would charge a price many multiples of what other solar quartz calibers commonly sell for. That was until I had the opportunity to have a period of hands-on time with it. I found myself enjoying its lightweight yet solid construction, the fun application of lume, and even became a bit enamored by the angular case lines, which had previously been a bit off-putting. So when I s...
Teddy Baldassarre
Omega has been on a tear with what I would call a series of the “worst-kept secrets in watches.” This was kicked off by the white Omega Speedmaster, furthered by the black aluminum Seamaster Diver 300m, and then punctuated by a watch “surprise” launched this morning: a new, full-bronze-gold Omega Seamaster Diver 300m. All of these watches have one thing in common: They were each teased (read, spoiled) by former James Bond actor and Omega ambassador Daniel Craig as he wore them out in the world ahead of launch. I, for one, am not too perturbed by this sequence of events. I tend to think that there is no such thing as a spoiled surprise. As a friend of mine once told me, you don’t really spoil a surprise; you merely surprise someone earlier. So let’s examine a new watch that feels like it’s been in our lives for months now – because it has. This one takes its design from from the No Time To Die Seamaster Diver 300m both in look and material. We have the mesh bracelet working against the well known SMP300 case design. Additionally, we have an aluminum bezel insert in a burgundy color which pairs with what appears to be a matte textured black dial, which Omega calls sandblasted. This is an effect I want to see in person. The NTTD dial was a more brownish hue and almost smooth, and the recent black-dial version brought the updated small wave pattern. So this is effectively a new dial texture for the format. Finishing off the dial is text done in a brown colorat...
Time+Tide
It's time to go down the grid and look at all the watch and team partnerships for the 2025 Formula 1 season.The post Look out for these watches and new liveries on the 2025 Formula 1 grid appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Monochrome
A relatively young brand founded in 2014 and based in Paris, France, the brainchild of childhood friends Ambroise and Adrien, Charlie Paris aims at delivering nice designs and solid watch content at fair prices. And the brand already carries quite a solid portfolio of models, such as the sporty Concordia we’ve covered already. But today, […]
Fratello
By now, we are used to catching glimpses of future Omega Seamaster Diver 300M releases on Daniel Craig’s wrist. Despite his retirement as 007, Craig is the Biel-based brand’s go-to ambassador for new Seamaster variants. And with great success, we might add. The online watch universe goes wild whenever the British actor straps a yet-to-be-released […] Visit Introducing: The Omega Seamaster Diver 300M In Bronze Gold And Burgundy to read the full article.
Fratello
Since 2019, BA111OD has offered edgy, affordable Swiss timepieces. The brand from Neuchatel offers a tourbillon, manufacture complications, and several avant-garde mechanical watches. The models even have chapter names, and today’s piece, the Chapter 7, is the first to receive a chronometer certification. With rising prices from many traditional “high street” brands, smaller independent watch […] Visit Introducing: The BA111OD Chapter 7 Certified Chronometer to read the full article.
Fratello
If you like the odd thematic special edition, Hublot is the brand to follow. Today, we get an interesting new watch from the Nyon-based outfit. This is the Hublot Classic Fusion Chronograph Boutique Lucerne. You quite literally get a piece of Lucerne if you purchase this watch, so if the Swiss city carries meaning to […] Visit Introducing: The Hublot Classic Fusion Chronograph Boutique Lucerne to read the full article.
Time+Tide
Andrew gets hands-on with Maurice de Mauriac's third tennis-inspired watch with Racquet Magazine.The post The Maurice de Mauriac Rallymaster III offers a grass court dial inspired by Wimbledon (live unboxing) appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Worn & Wound
Amidst the three and four-figure divers that dominate the market, Citizen has a reputation for being the everyman’s watch. Though the brand offers a variety of styles and price points, their dive watches tend to be one of the most popular options amongst their fan base. Launched in 1989, the Promaster series was developed with the goal of providing professional-grade, reliable watches for divers and outdoor enthusiasts. The first Promaster dive watch was equipped with advanced features like a high-water resistance rating, luminous hands for visibility underwater, and a rotating bezel to track elapsed time.These Promasters featured an arrow logo, symbolizing the watch’s ability to “go higher and deeper” than Citizen’s previous collections. This arrow is still included on the crown of modern Promaster references, tying these new releases into a longer history of one of the brand’s favored series. Citizen made waves in the summer of 2023 when they released a smaller version of their Eco-Drive divers. Those releases brought the Eco-Drive Promaster, traditionally sized 44mm, into the realm of the smaller-wristed by shaving off a whopping seven millimeters. These options came in three dial colors: gray, blue, and black, and all had a color-matched bezel. Three more colorways were debuted this past December, which included purple, blue, and red dial options. Along with the new colors, the brand made some aesthetic changes to these 37mm divers. Though the three color...
SJX Watches
IWC gives its exceptionally shock resistant – and strikingly expensive – aviator’s watch a new look. The Big Pilot’s Watch Shock Absorber XPL Toto Wolff is dressed in the black and green livery of the Mercedes-AMG Petronas Formula One Team that’s sponsored by IWC and led by Austrian auto entrepreneur Toto Wolff. Although largely unchanged from the original version, the Toto Wolff edition features a stamped, grained dial with a cleaner aesthetic and open-worked hands. And the BMG shock-absorbing spring that rings the movement is coated in Petronas green Super-LumiNova for maximum visual effect. Initial thoughts Despite its (very) limited commercial success, the original Big Pilot XPL is an interesting example of horological engineering. While its considerable price tag was debatable, the technology inside was novel and exemplifies IWC’s historical focus on engineering. The new iteration is hardly revolutionary since it’s merely a cosmetic makeover, but it does bring a new aesthetics that might give the watch a bigger audience, especially with the high profile of Formula 1 and Toto Wolff himself thanks to the Netflix series about the sport. The new Toto Wolff edition is priced at US$102,000, comparable to the first version and steep for a time-only watch, especially so for an IWC. However, seen another way, the price is perhaps competitive since the another brand that has long emphasised shock resistance and Formula 1 is Richard Mille, and any of its watches is...
Worn & Wound
Last week, Bremont - the British brand in the midst of what could conservatively be called one of the most dramatic about faces we’ve seen from a watch brand in recent memory - dropped their first novelties of the year, a trio of bronze field watches in their Terra Nova collection. Bremont first introduced the Terra Nova collection at Watches and Wonders last year alongside a new brand identity, all of which was greeted by a decidedly mixed reaction from critics and fans alike. Now, almost a year on from the collection’s initial launch, Bemont has taken each of the three core models in the Terra Nova lineup - the aptly named Date, Power Reserve, and Chronograph - and given them the full bronze treatment, along with new horizontal gradient dial colors; green for the Date and Chronograph, caramel brown (which we first saw on a limited edition steel Terra Nova Date late last year) for the Power Reserve. Bronze has long been a tool in Bremont’s quiver - both in full bronze configurations or as an accent on watches like the S302 - but here, the brand has opted to step up their materials game by using “Cupro-Aluminium Bronze,” a high-tech alloy that adds silicon and aluminum into the mix. Bronze is typically made up of a blend of about ~90% copper and ~10% tin, and I can’t speak to how much of that has been substituted for silicon and aluminum, but I can tell you that Cupro-Aluminum Bronze boasts several advantages over more traditional blends. Namely, it...
Monochrome
If you’re a fan of indie watchmaker Laurent Ferrier, you’re likely familiar with the Traveller Globe Night Blue – a UK-only model first introduced in the Galet Traveller series back in 2016. This year, as the brand celebrates its 15th anniversary, it revisits its beloved dual-time watch with a fresh update, now featuring a miniature […]
Worn & Wound
Among higher end Swiss watch brands, few have experienced a greater turnaround, at least on the surface, over the past several years than Parmigiani Fleurier. Parmigiani has always been a brand that knowledgable collectors and enthusiasts have praised and found a great deal of value in, but the brand itself didn’t always seem healthy. Before Guido Terreni took over in 2021, it would have been quite common to find heavily discounted Parmigianis on the gray market – a common symptom of overproducing too many references and not being able to find your core customer. Under Terreni, the brand’s output has been streamlined and everything just seems more thought through. And while I don’t have insight into sales statistics, you certainly don’t see the brand’s current catalog selling for closeout prices on the discount sites, a sign that they’ve got production under control, at the very least. One of the brand’s biggest gambits has been the exploring the integrated bracelet sports watch market with the Tonda PF collection. Launched at a time when every luxury brand was throwing their hat in the ring in this particular category, Parmigiani has sought to differentiate itself from competitors in the luxury integrated bracelet sports watch world by leaning into the luxury angle, and perhaps a little away from the sport. Inspired by a “sartorial approach” to watch design, the Tonda PF is all about feel, texture, and proportions in a manner similar to a bespoke sui...
Fratello
How did this book land on my desk? “Thomas, you wrote a watch book; why don’t you review this one?” - that’s how. To be fair, I am woefully unqualified to do so both because I cannot stand in author Michael Clerizo’s shadow and because I usually review watches. I feel I must start with […] Visit Greubel Forsey: The Art Of Invention - A Book By Michael Clerizo to read the full article.
Fratello
Sternglas continues to evolve its watch lineup rapidly. Today’s new Tachymeter 2.0 is a great example because it replaces the original model after a short three-year production run. We like it when a company is not content to rest with its existing designs. The question, as always, is whether the newest watch is an improvement. […] Visit Hands-On With The New Sternglas Tachymeter 2.0 to read the full article.
Worn & Wound
A few months back at a watch collector’s get together, I was asked by a friend how we at Worn & Wound decide what to write about when it comes to new releases. It’s a good question. Obviously, we can’t cover everything, so decisions have to be made somewhere about what we devote time and energy to, and what we ultimately think is less essential. Obviously, there are a number of brands that are almost always going to be somewhat newsworthy and of interest to our readers, and they tend to be prioritized. There are also watches that are of a more personal interest to some of us, maybe less commercial, but still noteworthy in some respect. A category, though, that almost always makes it through, is when a watch comes around that makes me want to check off the “unique” button in our content management system. Not a diver, not a dress watch, not sport or tactical. A watch that can only or primarily be described as “unique” is almost always going to get a pass. Bell & Ross has a knack for these, and the latest is the BR-03 Astro, a 999 piece limited edition inspired by nothing less than outer space, and our own solar system. Bruno Belamich, the brand’s co-founder and creative director, says he was inspired specifically by the view of the earth from the observation dome, the Cupola, of the International Space Station. The dial is blue aventurine (obviously evoking a star filled sky) with the brilliant blue, spherical representation of earth at its center. An engr...
Worn & Wound
“If it ain’t broke, don’t fix it” is an idiom that will seemingly always ring true throughout the watch industry for brands of all different origins and ages. There are certain watch models that are so easily recognizable because of their distinctive and timeless looks, and while other companies eventually attempt to replicate them and hopefully attain the same amount of success, they can never truly capture the essence of the original. The Seiko Orange Monster may not be everyone’s cup of tea. It’s a girthy diver with a bright dial, large lume-filled indices, and a heavy-duty stainless-steel shroud that I’m quite positive would look amiss with a three-piece suit. That being said, however, millions worldwide have embraced its robust and striking aesthetics over the years. The First-Generation models, while similar to their successors on the surface, have cemented themselves as cult classics within the collector sphere. Why? For a few reasons, I think. Reason 1: An Overall Oddity with Near Perfect Proportions When the Monster series was first announced, there was nothing quite like it on the market. Reception upon its initial release of reference SKX781 in 2000 was polarizing––some found the ambitious design, for lack of a better term, ugly. As time went on, more and more skeptics began to fall for its unique aesthetics and Seiko, noticing this trend, continued production of the Monster series for over two decades with minor tweaks here and there. The ...
SJX Watches
During the recent LVMH Watch Week, Louis Vuitton revealed new, luxe variants of its Tambour (alongside the unexpected Convergence). Originally launched in relatively conservative guises, the slim sports watch now gets more interesting – and pricey – with the use of ceramic and gemstones. A nod to the brand’s monogram canvas, the Tambour Ceramic is a mix of brushed brown ceramic and 18k pink gold. And the pair of “High End” models is made up of the Tambour Platinum Rainbow sporting sapphires and rubies (pictured above), and the Tambour Yellow Gold Onyx that’s set with orange sapphires. The Tambour Ceramic Initial thoughts I like the Tambour because it’s an appealing design that wears notably well. The thin case sits flat on the wrist and the feel is elegant. Though the styling is more subtle than earlier versions of the Tambour, most of which were large and chunky, the new Tambour is still a recognisable design that retains elements of the drum-like originals. The new versions are appealing for the same reason, but upgraded in terms of materials. There’s nothing to complain about, except the cost. The ceramic model is €75,000 while the platinum “rainbow” is €150,000 – fair relative to the market but still hefty. These are on par with equivalent watches from comparable brands, and the small number made help rationalise the numbers. The Tambour Yellow Gold Onyx is a limited edition of just 30 However, the new Tambour models share the same LFT023.01 f...
Time+Tide
UniDesign launches a softer, motorsport-inspired take on the sports watch.The post The UniDesign Autoclassic combines 1970s funk with automotive cues appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Bell & Ross, the Franco-Swiss watchmaker celebrated for its aviation instrument-inspired timepieces, ventures into the celestial realm with the BR-03 Astro. This striking new model, limited to 999 pieces, takes inspiration from the larger theme of space exploration, capturing the Earth, Moon, and Mars within its avant-garde dial. Despite the seemingly cosmic display, the dial only indicates the hours, minutes, and seconds in a conventional manner, keeping the watch affordable. By merging sharp execution with a cosmic narrative, Bell & Ross introduces an imaginative take on its mostly functional “tool” watches. Initial thoughts At the core of the BR-03 Astro sits a unique, if simplistic, reinterpretation of a “planetary” movement. Over the celestial aventurine glass base, a tiny Mars indicates the hours, a realistic-looking Moon indicates the minutes, and a satellite marks the passing seconds. All these indicators revolve around a large Earth that rests immobile at the centre of the dial. What is basically a three-hand watch becomes a rather immersive reinterpretation of the universe. While the motion of the planets is not accurate, the interplay of these well-reproduced celestial bodies has an undeniable appeal to it. The BR-03 Astro is not an astronomical complication nor an accurate cosmos model but manages to appeal through its playful take on the space theme, while staying in the same price range as the more conventional BR-03 models. This is an interesti...
On Episode 99 of A Week in Watches, Zach takes us through a few new releases and ends on a brand-obit. First up are a few new models from Grand Seiko that, shocker, are inspired by nature. Next is a look at a new take on the Hermétique sport/field watch by Baltic with added functionality. After, it’s over to Germany to check out the new and very impressive watches by Jochen Benzinger. Finally, it’s time to bid farewell to Carl F. Bucherer. The DIY Watch Club sponsors this episode of A Week in Watches. Building a watch will elevate your appreciation for timepieces. Perfect bezel alignment? Blued steel hands? Mind-blowing lume? With DIY Watch Club, you get to experience the craftsmanship firsthand and gain a whole new level of appreciation for your watches. Learn more here The post A Week in Watches Ep. 99: Grand Seiko, Baltic, and More! appeared first on Worn & Wound.
Fratello
Getting your ocean-capable watches wet has been a mantra I’ve taken to countless reviews. But long have I postponed taking my dive watch, the blue Tudor Black Bay 58, scuba diving. The reasons are many. Frankly, though, none of them are good enough to justify how someone (a passionate ocean enthusiast, at that) who lives […] Visit Getting PADI Diving Certified With My Tudor Black Bay 58 to read the full article.
Worn & Wound
eBay Finds is back! This bi-monthly installment will feature a selection of watches currently listed on eBay that have caught the eye of editor Christoph McNeil (@vintagediver). If you come across any hidden gems on the ‘Bay drop us a note at info@wornandwound.com for potential inclusion! Vintage Benrus Starting off this week with a classic Benrus 3 Star vintage dress watch. The yellow gold fill case has a nice slim bezel and slim lugs, and is in excellent condition. The silver dial has a really neat radial brushed finish that radiates outward to the right from the 9 o’clock side, very unusual. There is a gold framed round date window at 6 o’clock that has a matching round date magnifier window in the original acrylic crystal. The watch comes on a gold tone stretch bracelet that probably isn’t original but is definitely period correct. This gem comes in the original Benrus box. Runs well per the seller, but no picture of the automatic movement. View auction here Vintage Hamilton LED Watch Another week, another vintage LED watch. These seem to be coming out of the woodwork lately for some reason. But I’m glad they are because they are just too retro-cool. This example is a vintage Hamilton with its original bracelet and box and hangtag. The watch is gold plated, with a slim, space-age case and integrated bracelet. The seller states the bracelet will fit a 7.25” wrist max, and snugly at that, so keep this in mind if you have a larger wrist. The watch runs, and ...
Worn & Wound
“If you’ve heard the phrase ‘one-watch guy,’ you’re likely far beyond being one.” I’ve used that line a lot the last few years. In the last decade, the collective watch community has evangelized the ‘one-watch guy,’ transforming the concept from a simple idea into a lionized ideal rooted in the days when the Don Drapers of the world would get home from work, roll up their sleeves, and mow the lawn in cordovan loafers, Oxford cloth shirts, and a 4-digit Rolex. For better or for worse (honestly, mostly for better), we don’t live in that world anymore. Start looking around, and you’ll quickly realize that the modern one-watch guy is far more likely to own an Apple Watch or Garmin than a 1016. And yet, the theory of the ‘one-watch guy’ continues to permeate, no doubt helped along by people like me who keep writing story intros like this one. There’s a romantic simplicity to the idea; a sense that, if a collector can somehow encapsulate their taste into a single watch, they have achieved the ultimate in collecting prowess, or at least some advanced level of enthusiast zen. Generally, ‘zen’ is not a word I would use to describe myself, and I’m certainly not a one-watch guy, but I can understand why the concept holds appeal. In collecting, as in so many things, constraint can be a gift, forcing our own perspective into stark relief and keeping us accountable to our taste. From that perspective, a one-watch collection is the ultimate constraint, a...
Time+Tide
This modern take on a mystery watch captures a view of the Earth from space on its blue aventurine dial.The post The Bell & Ross BR 03 Astro captures the cosmos with another unconventional dial layout appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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