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Results for Taste of Time 2026

35,759 articles · 183 videos found · page 424 of 1199

Certina Updated The Popular DS Action Diver 38mm Titanium, But Did It Get Better? Fratello
Certina Updated May 26, 2026

Certina Updated The Popular DS Action Diver 38mm Titanium, But Did It Get Better?

Ask me for a list of my favorite affordable dive watches, and the 38mm DS Action Diver in titanium will be on it every time. When Certina released the lightweight 38mm version of its popular diver, it stood out immediately, and not just for its great dimensions, solid specs, and attractive price. It’s also not […] Visit Certina Updated The Popular DS Action Diver 38mm Titanium, But Did It Get Better? to read the full article.

Interview: Zenith’s Product Chief Officer on Reviving the Chronometer Cal. 135 SJX Watches
Zenith s Product Chief Officer May 25, 2026

Interview: Zenith’s Product Chief Officer on Reviving the Chronometer Cal. 135

For much of the past quarter-century, Zenith has built its brand on the back of the El Primero — a fast-beating chronograph calibre that debuted in 1969. But last year — for its 160th anniversary — the brand revived the time-only calibre 135 – a legendary competition calibre originally developed in the late 1940s. The reborn movement debuted within a new collection — the GFJ — named after founder Georges Favre-Jacot. To better understand what lies behind the relaunch of the cal. 135, we talked to Romain Marietta, Chief Product Officer at Zenith. David Serra, Technical Director of Movement Development, provided additional production insights. As Mr Marietta explains, the relaunch of the cal. 135 opens a new chapter for Zenith — more exclusive and more artisanal, featuring precious materials, elevated finishing and a classical aesthetic inspired by the designs of the 1950s. In short, closer to the independent watchmakers’ approach and to their audience. And this is only the beginning — the Le Locle-based brand has plans to further develop both the calibre and the collection. The interview was edited for length and clarity. Yannick Nardin (YN): Let’s start at the beginning: what makes cal. 135 so special? Romain Marietta (RM): For context, it was produced from 1949 until 1962. At the time, the pursuit of precision had a real genuine meaning. Watchmakers measured their strength, stature and reputation through the prizes they won. This movement was created f...

Sunday Morning Showdown: King Seiko Vanac Vs. Tudor Monarch Fratello
Tudor Monarch It’s Sunday morning May 24, 2026

Sunday Morning Showdown: King Seiko Vanac Vs. Tudor Monarch

It’s Sunday morning, which means it’s time to fire up the espresso machine and enjoy another heated watch battle. In this week’s showdown, Mike picked the new Tudor Monarch, while Jorg chose the King Seiko Vanac. The former was Tudor’s big release at Watches and Wonders 2026, and people seem to either love or hate […] Visit Sunday Morning Showdown: King Seiko Vanac Vs. Tudor Monarch to read the full article.

Highlights: Exotic Mechanics at Christie’s Hong Kong SJX Watches
F.P. Journe Chronomètre À Résonance Brass May 22, 2026

Highlights: Exotic Mechanics at Christie’s Hong Kong

A menagerie of exotic movements features in Christie’s upcoming Hong Kong auction, Important Watches: Featuring “Kronos: Titans of Time”, “The Eternity” and “The Chronicle” Collections, from Double Splits and double movements to torque management and monitoring. Lot 2352 – F.P. Journe Chronomètre À Résonance (Brass Movement) While the current iteration of the Chronomètre À Résonance is far more elaborate, using a differential to split the trains — each of which contains its own constant force device — this early F.P. Journe Chronomètre À Résonance with its 18k pink gold dial was much more ambitious in its time, developed by an upstart restorationist from Paris in a market that was hostile to independent brands compared to today. Resonance timepieces, or more accurately, those using coupled oscillators, can be traced all the way back to Christiaan Huygens, also known for inventing the pendulum clock and many, many contributions to mathematics and the sciences. He described the coupling of his pendulum clocks as an “an odd kind of sympathy” and sought to exploit this dampening effect to make pendulum clocks viable at sea, though this was ultimately unsuccessful. It would take more than a hundred years for Abraham-Louis Breguet — often hailed as the greatest watchmaker — to bring this phenomena to a watch, and then almost two hundred more for arguably the greatest living watchmaker to bring it to the wrist. That was, of course, François-P...

In Depth: Leroy 01 SJX Watches
Breguet No 160 May 22, 2026

In Depth: Leroy 01

The pocket watch format is experiencing an unexpected renaissance. From auction salerooms to high street queues, collectors of all stripes are talking about pocket watches more than at any time in recent memory. That makes it a perfect time to continue our series on groundbreaking historical pocket watches, including Breguet No. 160. This installment analyses the Leroy 01, which reigned as world’s most complicated watch — by most measures — for 85 years. The calm before the storm On the first of November 1897, Charles Piguet began work on an ébauche for which no contract yet existed. In his workshop at Le Sentier, a stone village strung along the floor of the Vallée de Joux at an altitude where winter arrives early and stays long, he opened a commission that would occupy the better part of seven years and produce the most complicated portable timepiece ever constructed. The formal agreement with his client, the Parisian house of L. Leroy & Cie — formerly known as Le Roy & Fils — would not be signed until January 1898. Piguet started anyway. In the Vallée de Joux, a man’s word was sufficient. This detail — two months of work before the ink dried — says something essential about the relationship between the French brand and the Swiss établisseurs on whom it depended. L. Leroy & Cie, founded in Paris in 1785 by Basile-Charles Leroy, had maintained that relationship across generations. When Louis Leroy, who had acquired the firm in 1889 and established a ma...

Introducing: The Arken Alterum Sage Grey Hodinkee
Ming May 21, 2026

Introducing: The Arken Alterum Sage Grey

What We Know Arken, the UK-based microbrand, has come back into the spotlight with the next public edition of its popular traveler dual-time watch, this time with a "Sage Grey" dial. It follows two preceding versions, one with a grey dial and one with a black dial, both of which were introduced back in 2023 and offered first as 200-piece preorders, a restock, and then an open-ended run early last year. While those versions are no longer available to order online, Arken founder Kenneth Lam told me that those editions can still be found at shows and via the brand's slowly growing network of retailers. And while the brand was busy assembling watches and fulfilling these orders all of last year, those who keep a close eye on the brand or have gone to any of Arken's meetups will know that a few "Speakeasy" editions have since popped up, available only in person and at these specific shows and meetups, often coming with a Cerakoted case. But finally, this new Sage Grey Alterum marks another reference that will be available to the broader public.  First introduced earlier this year at British Watchmakers' Day, this new dial takes the classic British racing green and desaturates it to an extreme, offering only a small hint of its verdant nature in what otherwise appears to be a quite monochromatic dial. A sand-colored dual-time hand adds a subtle touch of warmth to the otherwise cool dial, which complements the grey hue of the 38mm grade 2 titanium case. On the dial, two small ci...

The Serica 7505 Series Creatively Revisits The Brand’s Inaugural Field Watch Fratello
Serica 7505 Series Creatively Revisits May 21, 2026

The Serica 7505 Series Creatively Revisits The Brand’s Inaugural Field Watch

Time flies, doesn’t it? I first had a chance to try out the Serica 4512 California back in 2021. Since then, we have seen plenty of remarkable releases from the Parisian brand. The steadily growing collection was extended with a diver, a travel GMT, and a dress watch. On top of that, Serica kept us […] Visit The Serica 7505 Series Creatively Revisits The Brand’s Inaugural Field Watch to read the full article.

Introducing: Serica Downsizes Its Field Chronometer With The 35mm Ref. 7505 Hodinkee
Serica Downsizes May 21, 2026

Introducing: Serica Downsizes Its Field Chronometer With The 35mm Ref. 7505

What We Know It's time to put aside the debate of big watches versus small watches. I think we can at least agree that options are a good thing, so everyone can get what they want. With that in mind, Serica has released three new, smaller Field Chronometer watches measuring only 35mm by 9.6mm thick with a COSC-certified automatic movement and three new enamel dials. These three new watches, with stainless steel cases, play off the design language of the ref. 6190 with a few tweaks. There's the slightly larger, fixed bezel with pips at 3, 6, 9, and 12 o'clock. They have a double-domed anti-reflective sapphire that should somewhat magnify the smaller dial. The two-tone cream-and-black "Tuxedo" dial is similar to the ref. 6190 TXD, with hand-applied numerals. The other two, the "Minute Critical" dials in black or olive green, aren't that far from the ref. 6190 "Denali" that is already on offer in a larger size, with added 5-minute Arabic numerals. All three have Super-LumiNova C3 lume. Inside the case is the SoProd M100 movement, which is COSC-certified for accuracy, making it a Field Chronometer in both name and function. The caliber runs at 4Hz, is self-winding, and has a 42-hour power reserve. According to Serica, it also has a decorated plate with Côtes de Genève, and while there are no photos of the caseback, I would assume it is still a closed caseback like its big sibling.  Then there's the final major update: the watch comes with a redesigned Bonklip bracelet, fea...

Highlights: Striking Complications from Patek Philippe and Audemars Piguet at Christie’s Hong Kong SJX Watches
Audemars Piguet May 21, 2026

Highlights: Striking Complications from Patek Philippe and Audemars Piguet at Christie’s Hong Kong

Two leading practitioners of fine watchmaking, Patek Philippe and Audemars Piguet face off at Christie’s upcoming Hong Kong auction, Important Watches: Featuring “Kronos: Titans of Time”, “The Eternity” and “The Chronicle” Collections. The catalogue features blue chip high complications such as the Sky Moon Tourbillon, as well as under-appreciated neo-vintage discoveries, and the most striking of this selection doesn’t even chime. Lot 2424 – Patek Philippe Sky Moon Tourbillon Ref. 5002P-001 While Patek Philippe’s Sky Moon Tourbillon started as a supporting act to the Star Caliber 2000, miniaturising the latter’s planisphere with moon passage and phases, its mindshare has far surpassed its larger sibling. It was Patek Philippe’s most complicated wristwatch when first launched, and the super-watch of the 2000s. Collectors entering the watch world during that time speak of it with the same nostalgia and reverence 2000s kids give to the Bugatti Veyron. The design was rather contemporary for early 2000s Patek Philippe, and looks nothing like its successor, the baroque ref. 6002. At 42 mm in diameter, it was also notably large — the ref. 5016 with which shares most of its movement, was only 36 mm in diameter. It was forward thinking in another way, selling an extremely expensive, astronomical complication as an off-the-rack product, continuing Philippe Stern’s “build it and they will come” attitude that began with the Calibre 89. Patek Philippe’...

Experiencing The A. Lange & Söhne Cabaret Tourbillon Honeygold At The Concorso d’Eleganza Villa d’Este Fratello
A. Lange & Sohne May 20, 2026

Experiencing The A. Lange & Söhne Cabaret Tourbillon Honeygold At The Concorso d’Eleganza Villa d’Este

When we write about watches at Fratello, we typically have three levels of engagement with the product. First, we have our basic introduction articles, for which we base our writing solely on press materials, keeping it brief and factual. Second, we have our hands-on reviews, which allow us to spend time with the watch before […] Visit Experiencing The A. Lange & Söhne Cabaret Tourbillon Honeygold At The Concorso d’Eleganza Villa d’Este to read the full article.

Hands On: Haute-Rive Honoris Meccanica SJX Watches
Girard-Perregaux May 20, 2026

Hands On: Haute-Rive Honoris Meccanica

Taking place right next door to Watches & Wonders, Time to Watches is an annual fair dedicated to independent watchmaking. Among the exhibitors this year was Stéphane von Gunten, the watchmaker behind the Haute-Rive brand.  Arguably the most technically impressive watch on display was the Honoris Meccanica, the most mechanical looking of Haute-Rive’s Honoris line. The timepiece houses a three meter-long mainspring which allows it to achieve a power reserve of 41 days — more specifically 1,000 hours. Unlike some other watches with ultra-long power reserves, the Honoris Meccanica remains a properly sized and wearable timepiece that doesn’t feel like a wrist-worn experiment. Initial thoughts Stéphane von Gunten is part of a new generation of independent watchmakers with a strong engineering background, rather than a career spent doing restoration work. Before launching Haute-Rive, Mr von Gunten worked as a Research and Innovation Director at the Sowind group, which owns Girard-Perregaux and Ulysse Nardin. His most notable work happened while at Ulysse Nardin, where Mr von Gunten filed a number of important patents, ranging from the oval-shaped hairspring still used by Ulysse Nardin today to constant force escapements and compliant flexure oscillators.  As fate would have it, one of Mr von Gunten’s ancestors is Irénée Aubry, the watchmaker behind the “Hebdomas” eight-day pocket watch of 1888. Commercialised under many names, the movement only required winding...

Introducing: Breitling Refreshes The Chronomat Collection Hodinkee
Breitling Refreshes May 19, 2026

Introducing: Breitling Refreshes The Chronomat Collection

What We Know Today, Breitling relaunches the Chronomat lineup with an updated design language that builds on the collection's major 2020 revamp and makes a few small adjustments that feel quite consumer-friendly. The refreshed collection spans the gamut of sizes and complications, with 22 variants, from chronographs to time-and-date models, in many dial colors and metals. There are three models in the new lineup: the Chronomat B01 42 chronograph, the Chronomat Automatic B31 40, and the Chronomat Automatic 36.  The steel Chronomat B01 with ice blue dial and platinum bezel. In steel, the Chronomat B01 comes with a white, blue, or green dial and contrasting black subdials, while in two-tone steel and red gold, it features a grey dial. A full red gold variant features a brown dial, while a steel case with a platinum bezel comes with an ice blue dial. Chronomat Automatic B31 40mm. There is also a new model in this update, the Chronomat Automatic B31 40. It's the first time-and-date Chronomat in a 40mm diameter, which I think hits the sweet spot for the more sporty, aggressive Chronomat design and a wide range of wrists. It's also the first time we've seen the Caliber B31 on a Chronomat, as it was previously used in the Top Time B31 and a few SuperOcean Heritage models. In steel, there are three dial colors: blue, green, and white, while a steel case with a platinum bezel comes with an ice blue dial.  For the Chronomat Automatic 36, a steel version is available in a classic bl...

Honeygold Takes Center Stage Across the Case and Dial in This Lesser-Known A. Lange & Söhne Collection, the Cabaret Worn & Wound
A. Lange & Sohne May 18, 2026

Honeygold Takes Center Stage Across the Case and Dial in This Lesser-Known A. Lange & Söhne Collection, the Cabaret

It’s been a few years since we last saw A. Lange & Söhne fold one of its lesser-known collections back into its catalog: the Cabaret. Making a comeback, the newest addition marks the only rectangular model among the brand’s current offerings. It also puts the maison’s proprietary alloy, Honeygold, on full display across the case as well as the dial for only the second time, with the first being the Tourbograph Perpetual Honeygold “Homage to F.A. Lange” from 2020. The rectangular case shape of the Cabaret is certainly unique for A. Lange & Söhne, who’s become synonymous with more traditional round designs like its instantly recognizable Lange 1. However, for me, despite the highly wearable 29.5mm x 39.2mm x 10.3mm proportions, the material composition and finishings of this model are really the star of the show. Here, you have the pleasing alloy – not quite yellow gold, not quite white gold, not quite pink gold but a soft and beautiful shade all its own – featured in its original form across the case and dial accents. The material is also used for the dial but has received a black-rhodium treatment.    At first glance, this looks like just another handsomely executed A. Lange & Söhne dial, but upon closer inspection, there are more layers to unpack (literally). The result is four subtle elevations on the dial giving it interest and depth. This dial composition consists of three parts: the main dial plus two auxiliary dials for the seconds and the power-...

Hands On: A. Lange & Söhne Cabaret Tourbillon Honeygold SJX Watches
A. Lange & Sohne May 16, 2026

Hands On: A. Lange & Söhne Cabaret Tourbillon Honeygold

A. Lange & Söhne has been a sponsor of the Concorso de Eleganza Villa d’Este for 15 years now, but this year marks the first time a limited edition is debuting at the event: the Cabaret Tourbillon Honeygold. Staged annually on the shores of Lake Como, the classic car show has historically awarded a unique Lange watch to the “Best of Show” winner. This year’s winner will once again receive a watch with an engraved hunter case back, but for everyone these there is the new Cabaret Tourbillon, a limited edition of 50 pieces that is the most appealing iteration of Lange’s most unusual, and least popular, wristwatch with a tourbillon. Initial thoughts The Cabaret Tourbillon is probably the least popular Lange tourbillon due to its shape and size; the original version was also relatively plain in terms of appearance. The new limited edition, however, looks and feels entirely different. Thought the dimensions are the same, it looks like a whole new watch with the Honeygold dial. The relief elements on the frosted surface give the dial a subtle depth, while the colour contrasts well with the case. Though this is not a Handwerkskunst edition, the dial gives it a special something. Ordinarily, a modest cosmetic makeover like this would be uninteresting, but here the gentle redesign elevates a watch that previously felt a little flat into something more inspired. I only wish Lange had given the movement a little extra decoration to set it apart from the standard calibre. As...

Hands-On With The Briston Clubmaster Legend Diver Ocean Fratello
Ming ly ready May 15, 2026

Hands-On With The Briston Clubmaster Legend Diver Ocean

Listen up because today, we’re talking about another new brand on Fratello. Briston, a small French brand, was established in 2013, but it’s seemingly ready for the big stage. Frankly, after going hands-on with several of the company’s pieces at Time To Watches in Geneva, I think they’re worth a look. Happily, we start our […] Visit Hands-On With The Briston Clubmaster Legend Diver Ocean to read the full article.

Hands-On With The Tudor Monarch - Are You Down With The New King? Fratello
Tudor Monarch — Are You May 15, 2026

Hands-On With The Tudor Monarch - Are You Down With The New King?

This year is a regal one indeed, as both Tudor and the Rolex Oyster case celebrate their 100th anniversary. For this grandiose occasion, Tudor presented a completely new model during Watches and Wonders 2026 to underline the significance of its century of existence. The Tudor Monarch is a hard-to-define watch, but when you look at […] Visit Hands-On With The Tudor Monarch — Are You Down With The New King? to read the full article.

Seiko Introduces new Astrons, Including a Limited Edition, for their 145th Anniversary Worn & Wound
Seiko Introduces new Astrons Including May 14, 2026

Seiko Introduces new Astrons, Including a Limited Edition, for their 145th Anniversary

This year marks the 145th anniversary of Seiko, and while 145 isn’t exactly the most notable round number anniversary, it’s still, well, a very long time. And as we’ve mentioned countless times in these pages, the watch industry simply doesn’t let an anniversary year go to waste. Seiko has just announced a new collection of watches in the Astron line to mark the occasion, because of course it makes a lot of sense to commemorate longevity and a proud history with the most modern contemporary line in the catalog. Right?  Kidding aside, the Astron holds a special place in the Seiko collection for a few reasons. It was the name of the brand’s very first quartz watch, famously introduced on Christmas Day in 1969. It was a watch, and a technology, that not only changed the company, but the watch industry altogether. It ushered in the Quartz Crisis across most of the watchmaking world, except of course in Japan, which rose to a level of prominence in watchmaking as a result of quartz.  Today, the Astron is special as it is reserved for the most newfangled Seiko technology available, very much in keeping with the tradition inherent in its name. That means, primarily, tech forward GPS enabled timekeeping, as well as the use of Seiko’s solar technology. Astron watches typically inhabit a very contemporary design language, which tends toward sporty, angular, and often oversized.  The anniversary watch introduced this week is the new GPS Solar Dual Time Chronograph, ref...

First Look - The New Seiko Presage 145th Anniversary Limited Editions HCC007 and HCC004 Monochrome
Seiko Presage 145th Anniversary Limited May 14, 2026

First Look - The New Seiko Presage 145th Anniversary Limited Editions HCC007 and HCC004

Over the past decade, the Presage collection has become the most expressive showcase for Seiko’s artisanal side. Beyond the sporty world of Prospex, Presage has steadily explored traditional Japanese crafts, integrating enamel, Urushi lacquer, Shippo enamel and Arita porcelain into accessible mechanical watches. In 2026, Seiko celebrates its 145th anniversary, and following the four-piece anniversary […]

Hands-On: The Quietly Launched Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Monoface “Or Deco Cocktail” Hodinkee
Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Monoface “Or May 13, 2026

Hands-On: The Quietly Launched Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Monoface “Or Deco Cocktail”

Last year's launch of a new Reverso Tribute Monoface "Or Deco" in pink gold (with a gorgeous Milanese mesh bracelet) was probably the most outstanding release from Jaeger-LeCoultre in a while. Its time in the sun was somewhat brief, though, as it was a bit upstaged this year by the new Master Control Chronometre line (for which a Hands-On is forthcoming soon, I promise). Yet, at Watches and Wonders last month, the brand showed it could do more with the "Or Deco" platform, introducing three new Reverso Tribute Monoface Small Seconds "Or Deco Cocktail" watches, including two in a new material. Last year's release is still a stunner. You may have missed these new watches. That's in part because the brand is set to make a more complete announcement in a few weeks, with an immersive pop-up of its "Reverso Stories" series from May 21 to May 31 in the Miami Design District, ahead of the opening of a new boutique there this summer. The idea is to focus on rare pieces, including historic high-jewelry models, and to premiere some new Reverso pieces that play into that concept, including this trio. However, before the watches were shipped to South Beach, we got to see them in New York and get to spill the tea, as the kids say, before their Miami feature debut.  The standouts, at least in terms of novelty, are the two new white-gold versions. The framework remains the same, a 45.6 x 27.4 x 7.56mm case, now in white gold, housing a manually wound Jaeger-LeCoultre caliber 822 movement....

Seiko Slims the Solar-Powered Astron SJX Watches
Grand Seiko May 13, 2026

Seiko Slims the Solar-Powered Astron

Seiko is marking its 145th anniversary by continuing to push the envelope for high-end quartz. The Astron GPS Solar Dual-Time Chronograph is a series of four new references featuring a new multi-function quartz calibre, a streamlined case, and a push-button interchangeable strap system compatible with both the standard titanium bracelet and a range of silicone straps. Initial thoughts Since 1969, Seiko has been at the forefront of quartz technology, and since 2012 the brand has commercialised a range of GPS-synced solar-powered quartz watches under the Astron banner — named in honour of the groundbreaking 1969 original. The contemporary Astron models have taken quartz timekeeping about as far as it can go. Left on it’s own, it’s not the most accurate quartz watch, but the satellite link keeps the time in sync with network time and automatically adjusts to local time when travelling. Reference HAB002. Given the amount of technology packed inside — including a solar power unit — the Astron has always been a big watch. At 43.4 mm, the new Dual-Time Chronograph is not a small watch, but at just 12.4 mm thick it’s about 1 mm thinner than its predecessor, which is a welcome improvement. The bigger news, however, is outside the case: a new interchangeable strap and bracelet system. Bracelets have long been an achilles heel for both Seiko and Grand Seiko. The latter made big strides this year with a new bracelet for the Spring Drive UFA Ushio 300 Diver, and now Seiko ...

Introducing: The Swatch x Audemars Piguet "Royal Pop" Collaboration Is Here, And It's Not A Wristwatch Hodinkee
Audemars Piguet Royal Pop Collaboration May 12, 2026

Introducing: The Swatch x Audemars Piguet "Royal Pop" Collaboration Is Here, And It's Not A Wristwatch

What We Know The cat is out of the bag on what is likely to be the biggest watch news of the year. The Swatch x Audemars Piguet "Royal Pop" just launched, ahead of its official availability on May 16, 2026, at selected Swatch stores. There are no wristwatches here, just eight unique pocket watches in two different styles, cased in brightly colored Royal Oak-shaped bioceramic cases, powered by manually wound mechanical SISTEM51 movements. Eight watches, for each side of the iconic Royal-Oak bezel. All the watches are instantly recognizable as Royal Oak-inspired. They have a "Petite Tapisserie" dial and a Royal Oak octagonal bezel with eight hexagonal screws. Every watch comes with a 40mm case (without the clip) and measures 44.2mm by 53.2mm when mounted in the clip. The thickness is 8.4mm. The hands and indices on all watches feature Grade-A Super-LumiNova.  The watches can be dropped in your pocket, worn in the pocket, or popped into a holder attached to a calfskin lanyard (in three lengths), attached to a bag, or placed in a removable stand that lets the watch function as a desk clock. Swatch and AP say this will change the way we wear watches, breaking free from the wrist (suggesting the expected wristwatch collaboration is unlikely at the moment). The new Swatch x Audemars Piguet "Royal Pop" comes in two main variants. There's the "Lépine" style, where the crown is at 12 o'clock on the pocket watch, which come in six varieties: Otto Rosso (pink case and dial with red ...

Marathon Celebrates America’s 250th with a Limited Edition Pilot’s Navigator Worn & Wound
Ming May 12, 2026

Marathon Celebrates America’s 250th with a Limited Edition Pilot’s Navigator

As many are likely well aware, 2026 marks the 250th anniversary of the signing of the Declaration of Independence, and as we approach the 4th of July, there are going to be a lot of reminders of America’s big birthday. The watch industry, as we know, loves an anniversary, and Marathon has gotten in on the act with the new edition of their Navigator pilot’s watch with a handful of patriotic nods to America’s founding.  Marathon has been supplying the Department of Defense and various branches of the United States military with MIL-SPEC watches for many years, and the Pilot’s Navigator in particular has special resonance within their collection as it was originally developed in partnership with Kelly Air Force Base in San Antonia, TX in 1986. It’s a signature watch for Marathon and directly tied to the Canadian brand’s longstanding relationship to the American military, so it serves as a natural canvas for a limited edition.  Various aesthetic features of the new Anthracite Stainless Steel Pilot’s Navigator have been inspired directly by the U.S. flag and the Star Spangled Banner. According to Marathon, the anthracite stainless steel case (coated in black ion-plating) is inspired by the line “the twilight’s last gleaming” in the national anthem. Similarly, the single red tritium tube at 12:00 is a reference to “the rockets’ red glare”. Lastly, a “1776” stamp can be found on the dial just under 12:00. It’s circled by stars, and a visual refer...

Audemars Piguet - The Établisseur, Rehabilitated SJX Watches
Audemars Piguet May 12, 2026

Audemars Piguet - The Établisseur, Rehabilitated

This year Audemars Piguet (AP) walked into Watches & Wonders Geneva for the first time in seven years, and it did so carrying a word it had not used in public for the better part of a century. The brand had departed the predecessor of the fair, the Salon International de la Haute Horlogerie (SIHH), in 2019 alongside Richard Mille, declaring its intention to forge direct relationships with collectors through its own channels and AP Houses rather than through the shared theatre of a trade fair. The return to Geneva in 2026, under CEO Ilaria Resta, was already a signal of strategic realignment, but the word it brought with it made the move more interesting: établisseur. The watches it presented — three of them — each made in very limited numbers by a network of named artisans working within and around the Musée Atelier in Le Brassus, were introduced under the name Atelier des Établisseurs, a project AP described in its launch communications as a revival of the collaborative spirit that had driven the watchmaking industry for generations. The établissage system The framing was historically accurate, as far as it went. The établissage system did shape the Vallée de Joux from the late 18th century onward. Farmers working through the long alpine winters crafted individual components like wheels, bridges, and screws in home workshops, coordinated by an établisseur who assembled the finished watch and brought it to market. The Audemars Piguet Établisseurs Gallets hand-w...

Baltic and SpaceOne Launch the Seconde Majeure SJX Watches
Christopher Ward C12 Loco Baltic May 8, 2026

Baltic and SpaceOne Launch the Seconde Majeure

Baltic and SpaceOne have unveiled their first collaboration: the Seconde Majeure, an architectural time-only watch that employs a newly-developed jumping hours module developed by French independent watchmaker — and F.P. Journe Young Talent Winner — Théo Auffret. This collaboration was born from a meeting of the minds at Baltic’s offices more than four years ago when Mr Auffret first met Guillame Laidet. That encounter ultimately led to the creation of SpaceOne, an inventive entry level brand with space-age designs. From that chance meeting at Baltic, the two brands have teamed up on their first collaborative project. Initial thoughts On paper, these two brands are near-diametrically opposed. Baltic makes vintage-inspired watches in a traditional form, while SpaceOne takes a deconstructed and highly creative approach to watches that look like they’ve just fallen from orbit. What ties the two brands together for this collaboration is a friendship, and shared vision for how to bring thoughtful design to a lower price point. As the year unfolds, 2026 continues to feel like the year of the jumping hours watch. The Seconde Majeure is another watch reinforcing that trend, but it also taps into the growing desire for architectural watchmaking and hand finishing across wider price points in the market. In that sense, it reminds me of the Christopher Ward C12 Loco. Baltic and SpaceOne have taken an interesting path in bringing the Seconde Majeure to market, making it avail...

Hands-On with the New Releases from Naoya Hida Worn & Wound
Ming Naoya Hida releases May 7, 2026

Hands-On with the New Releases from Naoya Hida

One of my favorite days on the watch media calendar every year is the Naoya Hida preview day. Every spring for the last few years, watch media types make appointments at the Armoury on the Upper East Side to get a look at the upcoming Naoya Hida releases for the year. It feels like a very old fashioned way of doing things. Yes, there’s a press release sent out ahead of time, but Naoya Hida only makes one announcement like this per year – there are no mid-cycle drops or limited editions released to coincide with some later event. Members of the Naoya Hida team are present and there to explain the collection, piece by piece.  This year, Naoya Hida will produce a total of 10 models, 7 of which are new designs. We won’t go through each one here, but rather focus on the references that are completely new and those that have the most notable upgrades.  The reference that immediately caught my eye and was easily the most unexpected of the bunch is the new NH TYPE2C-2. To this point, Naoya Hida has really been defined, in my estimation, by their dial aesthetic, which prominently features elaborate hand engravings in the dial surface. It’s a very traditional and inherently ornate way to make a dial, and the execution is always top notch. It’s a type of craft that’s a true “IYKYK” proposition, though. From a distance the handwork on these dials might not be obvious, but they really come alive under close examination, especially under a loupe.  Anyway, the TYPE2C-2...