Hodinkee
Introducing: The Patek Philippe Calatrava 8 Day Reference 5328G-001
A new hand-wound caliber with advanced architecture yields a beautiful 8 day power reserve in a Calatrava case.
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Hodinkee
A new hand-wound caliber with advanced architecture yields a beautiful 8 day power reserve in a Calatrava case.
Fratello
Last week, Breitling introduced its new three-hand Top Time models with the new B31 caliber. Today, the brand releases three more Top Time models housing the well-known chronograph B01 movement. Let’s take a quick look at these three 750-piece limited editions, including a Martini Racing version with its famous colorway. Breitling Top Time B01 Racing […] Visit Hot Take: Breitling Top Time B01 Martini Racing Plus Two Other Limited Editions to read the full article.
Monochrome
It’s not every day that a new Morgan sports car is revealed, but it wasn’t too long ago when we showed you the gorgeous Midsummer. Morgan is a brand that likes to keep things traditional for the most part and, for well over a century, has been building cars the old-fashioned way: by hand! And […]
Deployant
Raúl Pagès releases his third watch as an independent, Introducing the Pages RP2 is a classical three hand watch executed to the highest levels.
SJX Watches
Three years after his RP1 wristwatch, Raúl Pagès has taken the covers off the RP2. Inheriting the clean aesthetic that characterised his earlier creation, the RP2 is a three-hand watch with a dial of white agate. Inside is a hand-wind movement modelled on historical precision chronometers. Mr Pagès has turned to specialists for many of the raw components of the RP2, and instead focuses on decorating and completing the watches, allowing him to plan to produce the 50-piece edition over two years. Initial thoughts The sheer number of time-only watches launched by “artisanal” independent watchmakers has made the concept mostly uninteresting for me. Mr Pagès’ new creation is yet another time-only watch with a highly finished movement. But Mr Pagès is the real deal. He is an actual watchmaker who can create with his hands, and more than that, Mr Pagès is also a restorer who worked for Parmigiani in the past. His background and skill set him apart, and because of this the RP2 also stands out from the rest of the time-only crowd. Though simple on its face, the RP2 incorporates interesting details, ranging from the hands to the raised flange around the dial. These reflect Mr Pagès’ thoughtful approach to watchmaking. But above all, his approach is exemplified by the movement, which is clearly a calibre that has a robust construction and refined finishing. Personally I would change a few elements of the design, which feels too empty and stark as it stands. However,...
SJX Watches
This week we remember Jean-Pierre Hagmann, whose hand created some of the finest watch cases in modern watchmaking. We discuss the latest creations from Audemars Piguet, Albishorn, Biver, Krayon, and Laurent Ferrier. We also dedicate a segment to questions from our readers, namely the value and appeal of independent watchmaking. We then close with thoughts on Watches & Wonders 2025, offering insights into the buzz and speculation surrounding upcoming releases, the evolving trends we’re anticipating, and what collectors and enthusiasts should watch out for in the months ahead. Tune in for a heartfelt tribute, expert insights, and a forward-looking discussion on all things horological. Whether you’re a seasoned collector or simply love the artistry of finely made watches, this episode promises a meaningful blend of reflection and excitement for what’s next in the world of watchmaking. The podcast is now live on Apple Podcasts, Spotify, and YouTube.
Monochrome
One of the rising stars of the independent watchmaking scene, Felipe Pikullik’s career began in Glashütte, then working with renowned watchmakers including Kudoke and Rolf Lang. In 2017, at the age of 23, he launched his own brand in Berlin with a focus on hand-skeletonized movements – some of the most impressive we’ve seen recently. […]
Monochrome
For almost 25 years, MeisterSinger has been our number one source for everything single-hand timepieces. It’s not even a signature for the brand, it’s a fundamental purpose, an inescapable feature to be found on all its watches – without or with additional complications. This deliberate choice to indicate the time without the frenetic minute and […]
Worn & Wound
When our friends at Artem approached us about shooting their new Loop-less HydroFlex watch straps, we couldn’t resist taking them into the place we call home-Brooklyn, NY. As a bunch of watch enthusiasts, we all know that a great strap can not only completely transform a watch-can make or break one too. Artem has made a name for itself with its sailcloth-style straps. In hand, their HydroFlex material is clearly flexible, yet durable. Artem took this tech to the next level, with their Loop-less bracelet-like deployant clasp. Together these two innovations make for a sleek, go-anywhere, do-anything combo. The ‘anywhere’ portion of that combination definitely includes Brooklyn-these straps felt right at home somewhere between the neighborhoods of Park Slope and Gowanus. There’s a wide array of colors available, we chose Loop-less HydroFlex watch straps that can easily go with anything in your collection, namely: Dark Matter, Lunar Ash, and Solar Flare. The post Lookbook: Urban Exploration with Artem’s Loop-less HydroFlex Straps appeared first on Worn & Wound.
Monochrome
MeisterSinger, a German brand created by Manfred Brassler in 2001, and located in the city of Münster, Westphalia, has made a name for itself with its unusual display of the time based on a single central hand – a fine needlepoint that enables the wearer to read the time almost to the nearest minute, but […]
Fratello
And before you know it, it is Sunday again! Welcome to another Sunday Morning Showdown. We hope you are comfortable, with a cup of coffee in hand and a croissant nearby. Depending on where you are, maybe you are even greeted by a soft spring sunshine. Well, say goodbye to your peaceful morning because we […] Visit Sunday Morning Showdown: King Seiko Vanac Vs. Toledano & Chan B/1 to read the full article.
Fratello
Pink flamingos have a very peculiar smell. The result of a strict shrimp-only diet will do that to a bird. Blue flamingos, on the other hand, smell like roasted peanuts. Do you know why? That’s because they feed exclusively on blue M&Ms;, just like spoiled rock stars. Come on, give me a break. I mean, […] Visit South Beach Vibes In Scheveningen With The Tudor Black Bay Chrono “Flamingo Blue” to read the full article.
SJX Watches
Hermès’ myriad interpretations of its signature motif ranges from the comic to the complicated. The Slim d’Hermès Cheval Brossé, on the other hand, is elegantly abstract. Retaining the familiar 39.5 mm case design of the “Slim” model, this features a meticulously handcrafted dial depicting a stylised horse rendered in brushstrokes. Unusually, the “Cheval Brossé” dial is the result of both artisanal and mechanical techniques: the base is traditional, hand-made grand feu enamel, while the horse is pad printed in multiple runs for each colour. Initial thoughts While the equestrian motif is repeated often, the versatility and creativity of Hermès’ design department allows the theme to stay fresh. The Cheval Brossé illustrates this: while the horse is recognisably Hermès in form and flavour, it is still striking different from prior models. Compared to several of Hermès’ other métiers d’art watches that tend to be more elaborate, the Cheval Brossé – French for “brushed horse” – possesses an understated aesthetic with its abstractly rendered horse set against the pristine blue enamel dial. Though the dial is simple, the “brushstrokes” that make up the horse give the dial a surprising degree of motion. The combination of enamel and pad printing, while not unique, is uncommon. Though this means the dial doesn’t boast the full-fledged artisanal craft, it certainly makes the watch more affordable. Sky blue enamel As is typical for a metie...
Monochrome
Presented in 2023, the Bovet Virtuoso XI is a masterpiece of high watchmaking, combining exquisite skeletonization, intricate hand-engraving, and meticulous hand-finishing… without mentioning an in-house movement with flying tourbillon and solid 10-day power reserve. Following the release of the original white gold versions, this typically Bovet watch is now available in 18k red gold, with […]
Deployant
Angelus releases a new collection with the Flying Tourbillon Titanium, adopting the maison's signature open work style and a new hand-wound caliber.
Time+Tide
With a dragging hours display and hand-painted dial, it celebrates 80 years of the Moomins.The post Sarpaneva’s latest, lumetastic Moomin 80 watch has the cute critters sleeping under a shooting star appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Greubel Forsey has just announced that ownership of the company has once again reverted to Robert Greubel and Stephen Forsey, confirming rumours that have been circulating since Michel Nydegger replaced Antonio Calce as chief executive. With Mr Calce’s departure, the brand was pivoted back to more traditional complicated watches, as exemplified by the recent Hand Made 2 and Nano Foudroyante EWT. The shares owned by Mr Calce, was acquired by either the two cofounders or the company itself. The statement issued by Greubel Forsey states “Mr. Calce no longer holding any shares in the company or being affiliated with it.” Mr Calce came on board in 2020, and redirected the brand towards high-end sports watches. Industry talk at the time was that he was not only pivoting the company’s products, but also engaged in a search for a buyer for the brand. With a majority stake, Mr Greubel continues as the board’s chairman. Though his exact role is unspecified, Mr Forsey will presumably take off where he left off, as both a brand ambassador and watch constructor. The return of the two founders as the company’s only shareholders is the latest twist in the story of the company. Besides Mr Calce, Richemont once owned a stake in the brand. The Swiss luxury group, which also owns Cartier and Lange, acquired 20% of the brand in 2006 but the hoped-for synergies or acquisition never came to pass. Richemont sold the stake back to Greubel Forsey in 2022 , just after Mr Calce came on b...
SJX Watches
Sarpaneva returns to the Swedish comic, but this with a twist: the Moomin 80 features a skeletonised steel dial with a “shooting star” aperture that reveals the hours on a rotating disc. Making its debut in two versions, the latest Moomin edition retains the signature elements of its predecessors, including the familiar Sarpaneva case with flared flanks and a hand-finished dial filled with multi-coloured Super-Luminova. As with the Sarpaneva x Moomin release four years ago, the dial draws inspiration from a comic book scene. Initial thoughts This is the third Moomin edition, with the last one, a diver’s watch, launched a year ago. It would have been repetitive if this was instead a rehash with a different scene on the dial, but the latest edition stands out for the unique hour display. Although the hours are mechanically straightforward, it is different enough to make this distinct from the preceding Moomin models. Priced at €13,500, the Moomin 80 costs a little more than the earlier version that was €12,000. The price remains competitive considering the overall craftsmanship, most of which lies in the hand-finished dial that is also painted by hand. Both the rotor and case are also high quality and made in-house by Sarpaneva, adding to the value proposition. The two versions of the Moomin 80 Intricate dial works The Moomin 80 employs the trademark Sarpaneva case made of Finnish stainless steel. It’s chunky but appropriately sized and creates a coherent aesthet...
Monochrome
Reviving a concept popularised during the Middle Ages, when single-hand tower clocks rang out the hours, the German brand MeisterSinger has carved a very successful niche for its single-handed watches since it was founded in 2001. Just ahead of its attendance at Watches & Wonders 2025, MeisterSinger releases a 100-piece limited edition in lava black […]
Monochrome
Every week, we look at countless watches to feature in our Buying Guide, narrowing them down based on a common theme such as colour, material, complication or case shape. Scouting what fits within our selected topic at hand sometimes reveals surprising trends, and this time, we reached an eye-opening conclusion. In the field of relatively […]
Monochrome
While primarily known for its minimalistic watch displaying the time thanks to a single hand (which is used to display the hours mainly, and a deliberately vague indication of the minutes), MeisterSinger is no stranger to additional complications, in particular astronomical and calendar features – admitidely, a great match with slightly old-school and poetical single-hand […]
Monochrome
Nomos, the independent German watch brand based in Glashütte, the cradle of Germany’s finest watchmaking traditions, was founded in 1990 and has earned a merited reputation for high-quality craftsmanship, in-house movements and minimalist designs. As the largest producer of mechanical watches in Germany, Nomos is also keen to lend a helping hand to humanitarian associations […]
Monochrome
While bright colours have become noticeably prevalent in watchmaking for quite a few years, until recently, the exciting hues have been reserved for the dials and the straps. On the other hand, Hublot tries hard to make its entire watches, case included, literally eye-popping. Moreover, the brand strives to showcase its movements and does it […]
Monochrome
The L.U.C Lunar One was Chopard’s first calendar and astronomy complication. Unveiled in 2005, the model combines a perpetual calendar and a precision orbital moon phase display in a rotating aperture. Twenty years later, Chopard revisits its L.U.C Lunar One with a more compact basin-style case, a trimmer, more legible dial decorated with hand-guilloché in […]
Worn & Wound
Micro-indie brand Sartory-Billard, founded by Armand Billard and his friend Ludovic Sartory in 2015, is well-known for its custom bespoke timepieces. In a shift from its usual practices, the brand is set to release two new fully fleshed-out models featuring its standard SB04-E case: the Ruby Platinum, which will be a limited series, and the Tantalum Hand-Engraved, which will enter regular production. Both models aim to showcase the brand’s craftsmanship and expertise, a goal they seem to have achieved based on these brand supplied images. The Ruby Platinum watch features a dial centerpiece made from genuine ruby sourced from a responsibly harvested boulder in Tanzania, Africa. The ruby is crafted into dial inserts in Germany, just an hour away from the Sartory-Billard workshop. Because of the unique nature of the material, no two dials are identical; each displays distinct textures. Completing the dial is a fumé sunray-textured platinum-plated outer ring. Tantalum is one of the most challenging metals to work with due to its remarkable density and hardness. Engraving a delicate design on its surface requires great skill, which is exemplified in the intricate feather-like engraving found in the center of the Tantalum Hand-Engraved dial. Like the previous model, this one also features a surrounding ring; however, this one is made of solid tantalum and finished with a fumé sunray effect. Both watches have a 39.5mm diameter case, measuring 46mm from lug to lug and only 10....
Fratello
If you follow my writing, you may have noticed I have a complicated relationship with Panerai. On one hand, I adore the brand and its design language. On the other hand, I often fail to see the logic in modern Panerai releases, including the brand’s design choices. I have often lamented the odd designs of […] Visit Hot Take: Panerai Goes Back To Its Roots With The New Luminor Tre Giorni PAM01628 to read the full article.
Time+Tide
Zuck wore a Greubel Forsey Hand Made 1 worth around US$906,000 (~A$1.45 million) as he announced sweeping content policy changes for Meta.The post Mark Zuckerberg’s $1 million Greubel Forsey watch proves as controversial as his Meta changes appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Monochrome
Mercedes-Benz and racing go hand-in-hand. After all, it’s one of the most successful manufacturers in both pre-war Grand Prix, post-war Formula 1 and Endurance Racing, birthing many legendary cars. From the very early days of motor racing, the brand has been active in all sorts of categories. It won the 1914 French Grand Prix with […]
Monochrome
Six years ago, Robin wrote about Michiel Holthinrichs, an up-and-coming young Dutch architect-turned-watchmaker using 3D printing techniques to create his cases. The result, with its raw industrial finish, can be appreciated on Holthinrich’s second watch with its grainy concrete textures, although other cases were partially polished and hand-finished for a more refined look. Given the […]
SJX Watches
Bovet’s latest creation, the Récital 21, is a perpetual calendar with retrograde date presented in a modern style. The large, 44.4 mm titanium case contains tinted sapphire dial that reveals the calendar mechanism with twist: the retrograde date hand is damped so it gradually returns to the origin rather than jumping instantaneously. Initial thoughts Bovet is best known for its large complications, some of which are elaborately and intricately styled. The Récital 21 is classic Bovet, but in a slightly more approachable format. It’s a complicated watch but in a more contemporary package, especially with the sapphire dial and luminous markings. The case is (slightly) more wearable, though it has the signature sloped “writing desk” case, which is not for everyone but distinctive nonetheless. As is typical for Bovet, the movement is in-house and impressively spec’ed. Notably, it incorporates the patented co-axial double seconds (that’s visible on the front and back), and a five-day power reserve. Sapphire dial The polished titanium case is 44.4 mm in diameter. In the usual Bovet style, the case slopes downwards from 12 to six o’clock, hence the “writing desk” nickname. Though large, it has short lugs for wearability. Offered in green, blue, or brown tint, the sapphire crystal dial reveals the calendar module that’s enhanced by a damping mechanism that deliberately slows the date hand during its return. All of the calendar indications can be adjusted via ...
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