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In Depth: Patek Philippe Annual Calendar Travel Time Ref. 5326G SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Annual Calendar Travel Time Aug 20, 2024

In Depth: Patek Philippe Annual Calendar Travel Time Ref. 5326G

The Annual Calendar Travel Time Ref. 5326G is one of Patek Philippe’s most practical watches in the “Compilations” family because it combines two useful functions: a calendar that needs setting only once every four years along with a dual time zone display with double day-night indicators. Smartly constructed such that the calendar indicators move in sync with the local time hand, the ref. 5326G has a vintage-toned aesthetic on a smartly detailed dial, presented in an elaborately decorated case. All of that, however, is packaged with a hefty price tag. Initial thoughts Like its sibling the Calatrava ref. 5226G, the ref. 5326G captures Patek Philippe’s latest generation aesthetic, which is not just about design, but fancy execution of the dial and case. Compared to equivalent models from before, the ref. 5326G takes a more elaborate approach to the habillage, with the hobnailed case flanks being an example. It does, however, still feel like a Patek Philippe. Though it’s relatively large at 41 mm, the case is thin at just over 11 mm, giving the watch an elegant, if wide, profile. The ref. 5326G also stands out for having a movement from the 31-260 family of large calibres that represent the latest and greatest in self-winding Patek Philippe movements. In fact, it’s one of only five references with a 31-260 movement. The cal. 31-260 is unquestionably the most sophisticated of Patek Philippe’s automatic movements, and also the most appealing in terms of design wi...

Longines Debuts the First Non-Limited Spirit Zulu Time in Titanium Worn & Wound
Longines Debuts Aug 15, 2024

Longines Debuts the First Non-Limited Spirit Zulu Time in Titanium

Longines has been experiencing significant success in the enthusiast space since their pilot-style Spirit line of watches launched. Over the last few years, they have introduced 39mm variants and a GMT version called the Spirit Zulu Time. Zulu time is a military term that refers to Universal Time Coordinated (UTC). These timepieces, also known as GMT watches, can show a second time zone using a third hand and a 24-hour scale on the dial. In December 2023, Longines partnered with Hodinkee to produce a special version of the Zulu Time in grade 5 titanium, featuring a 39mm case and limited to only 500 pieces worldwide. This special edition bore a striking resemblance to another brand’s popular GMT watch but was significantly thinner and much less slab-sided, which appealed to many collectors. As successful as that model was, Longines did step away from the original charm of the Spirit collection, leaving enthusiasts wanting a grade 5 Titanium GMT watch that was not a limited edition. They have heard the call and have just announced a new 39mm Spirit Zulu Time in this material, which fits right in with all the others in the lineup. Why are we explicitly mentioning the titanium grade used in these watches? In wristwatches, there are generally two types of titanium used. Grade 2 and grade 5, and while they both have the key qualities that make the material special (they are both very light), there is a tangible difference. Grade 2 titanium is commercially pure titanium, which ...

Kudoke Introduces the Kudoke 2 Indigo “Isetan” SJX Watches
Zodiac Aug 14, 2024

Kudoke Introduces the Kudoke 2 Indigo “Isetan”

Kudoke has just unveiled an iteration of its signature day-night wristwatch, the Kudoke 2 Indigo “Isetan”, a limited edition of just 15 watches for the upscale department store Isetan, the Japanese equivalent of Selfridges or Galeries Lafayette. The new Kudoke 2 is part of the “Indigo” series of timepieces by independent watchmakers with blue dials that pay homage to the traditional Japanese fabric dyeing technique. It retains the familiar Kudoke 2 dial with the hand-engraved day-night indicator at 12 o’clock, but with a vertically-brushed, dark blue finish. Initial thoughts Best known for its value-minded watches with hand-engraved decoration, the German independent sticks to what it does best with the Indigo edition. The blue-and-gold palette works well, with the rhodium-plated elements, namely the hands, logo plaque, and chapter rings complementing the colour. It is an excellent example of the affordable watchmaking with artisanal touches that’s central to Kudoke’s philosophy (and was also the base for our own 2021 Kudoke 2 “Zodiac”). That said, this is one of several variations of the model that different only in dial colour. The many colour versions make the limited-edition concept less interesting in itself, though the Indigo is striking and one of the most appealing of the versions. Priced at JPY1.98 million, or about US$13,500, the Kudoke 2 Indigo is the typical Kudoke value proposition with features rare at this price point. Besides being small-...

MeisterSinger Special №3 Edition Brings Stylish New Accents to the Collection Two Broke Watch Snobs
MeisterSinger Aug 6, 2024

MeisterSinger Special №3 Edition Brings Stylish New Accents to the Collection

MeisterSinger, famous for its single-hand display, continues to iterate on its signature design. Despite the limitation of a single-hand movement, the German brand has proven to be very creative and versatile. Since 2001, MeisterSinger has pleased watch enthusiasts with calendar functions, chiming mechanisms, jumping hours, power reserves, and more, all in its own style. This month MeisterSinger is back with the Special Edition №3 watches and bright blue accents.

Introducing – The New MeisterSinger Special ?3 Bright Blue Edition Monochrome
MeisterSinger Aug 6, 2024

Introducing – The New MeisterSinger Special ?3 Bright Blue Edition

MeisterSinger has made the single-hand time display its signature design feature, which some might view as limiting creativity. However, this German company has consistently proven otherwise. Since 2001, MeisterSinger has introduced various exciting series that incorporate calendar functions, chiming mechanisms, jumping hour displays, and power reserves, all while preserving the brand’s original spirit. Furthermore, MeisterSinger […]

Attention, Party People! - IFL Watches Introduces The G-Shock CasiOak DJ Willie Fratello
Casio ak DJ Willie Aug 5, 2024

Attention, Party People! - IFL Watches Introduces The G-Shock CasiOak DJ Willie

With Steamboat Willie now in the public domain, the film’s main character is ready to let loose! In this second Steamboat Willie-inspired release, IFL Watches lets Willie work the crowd as a DJ on the dial of a G-Shock CasiOak. The hand-painted dial lights up under UV light to brighten up Willie’s party. It creates […] Visit Attention, Party People! - IFL Watches Introduces The G-Shock CasiOak DJ Willie to read the full article.

Konstantin Chaykin’s Latest Joker Sports a Skeletonised Dial SJX Watches
Konstantin Chaykin Jul 24, 2024

Konstantin Chaykin’s Latest Joker Sports a Skeletonised Dial

An unusual variation of the brand’s bestseller, the Joker Fiat Lux has a skeletonised dial revealing the signature Konstantin Chaykin “rolling eye” module that’s been decorated by hand. Fiat lux is Latin for “let there be light”, and a reference to the see-through dial. It’s limited to 38 pieces and intended for the brand’s retailer in China, West Wood Time in Beijing. Initial thoughts Konstantin Chaykin’s Joker has become a cult classic of sorts and the brand’s strongest seller by far. Since the launch of the original Joker in 2017, it has evolved into an entire collection known as Wristmon, short for “wrist monster”. The brand has put out many, many different Wristmons since, though the original is arguably the purest (while some variants are admittedly gimmicky). Being based on the original, the Joker Fiat Lux stands out. It is almost the same as the original, with identical dimensions, design, and functions, but with a skeletonised dial and an exhibition back, both of which make it more aesthetically pleasing than the original. The dial is skeletonised to show off the display module The Joker Fiat Lux is priced similar to comparable past Wristmon models. It’s relatively affordable for a distinctive and unique example of unconventional independent watchmaking – seen that from that perspective, it is good value. Though the base movement is a no-frills ETA 2824-2, but the display module is built by Chaykin and furthermore hand finished. The ine...

Parmigiani Introduces the Tonda PF Automatic 36 mm for Ladies SJX Watches
Jul 12, 2024

Parmigiani Introduces the Tonda PF Automatic 36 mm for Ladies

Having just launched the Sunlit Ivory edition for its Singapore retailer, Parmigiani now unveils the Tonda PF Automatic 36 mm for ladies. Though it retains the same dimensions and details, including the hand-guilloché dial, the new Tonda PF is available with a variety of diamond settings. Three versions are being launched, including a top-of-the-line model with lines of diamonds along the entire circumference of the watch and bracelet. The entry-level model, on the other hand, is two-tone rose gold and steel with diamond indices. The two-tone Tonda PF Automatic 36mm on the wrist Initial thoughts Although the Tonda PF 36 mm is one of many integrated-bracelet sports watch, it has a bit more of dress watch element to its design, especially in this 36 mm size. It’s more compact without sacrificing the sporty aspect of the model, making it quite versatile – the fact that it’s a convincing ladies’ sports watch in this new livery confirms that. Priced from CHF31,900 to CHF78,900 depending on the version, the new Tonda PF 36 mm is similarly to the competition. With integrated-bracelet sports watches being premium priced in general – reflecting an earlier fad – Tonda PF is a value proposition compared to alternatives when considering fit, finish, and materials. That said, I wish it was priced more competitively considering that Parmigiani is a newish brand without a historical lineage of sports watches that the “Holy Trinity” brands possess. A familiar design The t...

Zenith Introduces the Defy Skyline Skeleton White Ceramic SJX Watches
Audemars Piguet Jul 11, 2024

Zenith Introduces the Defy Skyline Skeleton White Ceramic

A new livery for one of Zenith’s most popular models, the Defy Skyline Skeleton White Ceramic shares the styling of its siblings like the Defy Skyline 36 mm but with a few notable tweaks including a white ceramic case and blue-treated skeletonised movement. And though it appears to be a simple time-only watch, the Defy Skyline features a discreet complication in the form of a “lightning” small seconds hand that completes one rotation every ten seconds. Initial thoughts Zenith has recently been playing it safe with new launches by building on current bestsellers, like the Defy Skyline. The new skeleton in white ceramic is a good looking watch, and an excellent execution of one of Zenith’s modern-day classics. The combination is also novel. Although each key element of the watch is common in itself – a skeleton movement plus the white ceramic case and bracelet – they are relatively uncommon together. The Defy Skyline Skeleton on the wrist However, the Defy Skyline arguably tries too hard to capitalise on the recent (and waning) popularity of integrated-bracelet sports watches. It is not difficult to see a resemblance to the Royal Oak, in particular the one-off Royal Oak made for Only Watch 2023, making it a bit cliché. Priced at US$17,500, the Defy Skyline Skeleton in white ceramic is a decent value proposition compared to similar watches, most of which are from pricier brands like Hublot or Audemars Piguet. Besides the ceramic case and bracelet, it stands out ...

W Worn & Wound
Worn & Wound
Jul 9, 2024

[VIDEO] What It Takes To Be Made In Glashütte with Bruno Söhnle

From hand-milling plates to carefully bluing screws, the team at  Bruno Söhnle Glashütte S/A takes the standard and seal of ‘Made in Glashütte’ very personally. Since 2000, the brand has become the most accessible entry point for watch enthusiasts to step into the world of traditional Glashütte watchmaking. For the uninitiated, the town of Glashütte in Saxony, Germany has been the undisputed heart of prestigious German watchmaking for almost two centuries. With a 60+ year family legacy intertwined with the history of this town, the basic idea behind the Bruno Söhnle brand is to manufacture watches that live up to the all-important ‘Made in Glashütte’ concept and title-but in a way that also makes them affordable for everyone. ‘Made in Glashütte’ can best be compared to champagne. Like champagne, it has regulations that it can only be produced in a specific region. We have the same thing here in Glashütte. We had the unique opportunity of going behind-the-scenes at the manufacture in Glashütte, with the Bruno Söhnle team, to see exactly what it takes to be ‘Made in Glashütte.’ Join us as we interview the brand’s leadership, spend time with their watchmakers, and learn about the standards that define Glashütte-based quality across automatic, hand-wound, and even quartz movements. In fact, Bruno Söhnle Glashütte S/A is the only watch brand around to create quartz movements bearing the ‘Made in Glashütte’ moniker. In this exclusive be...

Grand Seiko Unveils the Spring Drive GMT SBGE307 “Tokyo Lion” SJX Watches
Grand Seiko Unveils Jul 9, 2024

Grand Seiko Unveils the Spring Drive GMT SBGE307 “Tokyo Lion”

Following last year’s SBGA481, Grand Seiko continues to expand the Sport Collection “Tokyo Lion” series inspired by the big cat in the Grand Seiko emblem. Like its predecessor, the Sport Spring Drive GMT SBGE307 “Tokyo Lion” sports a stylised, angular titanium case inspired by a lion’s paw and a textured dial modelled on a mane, now joined by a red GMT hand. Initial thoughts The “Tokyo Lion” is one of the most distinctive case designs in Grand Seiko’s large catalogue, and also the flagship given its complex finishing (and accompanying price). While most Grand Seiko watches opt for patterned dials and conservative, even bland, case styles, the “Tokyo Lion” makes a statement with its is generous dimensions and angular styling. The design is also particularly suited to Grand Seiko’s signature flat-polishing technique. With their wide, flat surfaces, the claw-inspired lugs are an excellent medium to showcase zaratsu polishing. It is, however, a large case at almost 45 mm wide and 15 mm high, so it’s catered to someone seeking a bold sports watch, and not an old-school Grand Seiko dress watch. The texture of the dial is striking, even though Grand Seiko has no shortage of dial patterns in its offerings. The dial artfully mimics a lion’s mane, giving it more visual depth than the typical Grand Seiko dial. Though few, the red accents on the dial add just enough colour and complement the ivory dial well. The dial might have been slightly dull without th...

First Look – The New Grey Dial Louis Erard x Alain Silberstein Smile Day Monochrome
Louis Erard x Alain Silberstein Smile Jun 27, 2024

First Look – The New Grey Dial Louis Erard x Alain Silberstein Smile Day

Alain Silberstein and Louis Erard are at it again! One of the brand’s most veteran collaborators, Alain Silberstein has collaborated with Louis Erard since 2019, dialling up the colour of watches with his original design language. Following the Tourbillon Regulator, Silberstein’s latest Smile Day collaboration continues in the wake of earlier three-hand with day and […]

Introducing – MeisterSinger Releases Two Vibrant Unomat Limited Editions Monochrome
MeisterSinger Jun 18, 2024

Introducing – MeisterSinger Releases Two Vibrant Unomat Limited Editions

MeisterSinger hardly needs an introduction. This award-winning German brand is renowned for its distinctive single-hand time display design, which makes it instantly recognizable. The latest additions to the MeisterSinger lineup are blacked-out versions of the robust and solidly built Unomat series, featuring generous splashes of colour – with a twist. The two new Unomat watches […]

Introducing – The Kari Voutilainen Tourbillon 20th Anniversary, a Tribute to his First Watch Monochrome
Voutilainen Jun 4, 2024

Introducing – The Kari Voutilainen Tourbillon 20th Anniversary, a Tribute to his First Watch

One of the most revered and respected names in the world of watchmaking, and certainly in the independent watchmaking scene, is Kari Voutilainen. The Finnish watchmaker is an expert in ‘wrapping’ the most brilliantly hand-finished movements in beautiful discrete cases with tear-drop lugs. With 20 years of track record as an Independent watchmaker and more […]

Massena LAB Teams Up with Raúl Pagès Once Again for the Limited Edition “Absinthe” Worn & Wound
Patek Philippe watches May 22, 2024

Massena LAB Teams Up with Raúl Pagès Once Again for the Limited Edition “Absinthe”

Massena LAB has announced a new collaboration with independent watchmaker Raúl Pagès inspired by one of the most important Patek Philippe watches of the last century. The Absinthe, which serves as the direct follow-up to the pair’s massively successful 2022 release, the Magraph, brings together a proprietary hand-wound movement, a strikingly green dial (reminiscent of the infamous spirit for which the watch is named), and all the vintage charm we have come to expect from Massena LAB in one surprisingly affordable (and highly limited) package. William Massena is one of those rare figures in the watch industry who everyone seems to know. He’s an outsized presence who seemingly manages to be everywhere at once and have a hand in every facet of the watch industry. Over the last few years though, his name has come to be associated primarily with Massena LAB, where he consistently produces some of the most talked about limited editions and collaborations on the market. This latest release follows closely on the heels of a watch introduced last month. That watch - a collaboration between Massena LAB, Pagès, and Phillips Auction House in association with Bass & Russo - debuted the M690 movement used in the Absinthe and drew inspiration in its layout from the iconic (and record-setting) 1952 Patek Philippe ref. 2458 produced for J.B. Champion, Jr.  That watch was one of only two Patek wrist watches to have been fitted with an Observatory-grade movement, and its unique d...

Taking A Spin With The Bravur La Corsa Rosa IV To Start The Last Week Of The Giro D’Italia Fratello
May 20, 2024

Taking A Spin With The Bravur La Corsa Rosa IV To Start The Last Week Of The Giro D’Italia

The Bravur La Corsa Rosa IV is a chronograph from the Grand Tour series of the cycle-crazy Swedish brand. The color of the sub-dials and the central chronograph seconds hand clearly state, “I am a Giro d’Italia Watch” (please read this in your best Italian accent). Since the famous stage race is in its final […] Visit Taking A Spin With The Bravur La Corsa Rosa IV To Start The Last Week Of The Giro D’Italia to read the full article.

We’re giving away two pizza watches to celebrate 200k followers Time+Tide
May 19, 2024

We’re giving away two pizza watches to celebrate 200k followers

You read that right. We are going to be giving away two of our Time+Tide x Studio Underd0g ‘Hand Delivered’ Pizza watches to one lucky follower. This is all to celebrate us reaching 200,000 followers on Instagram. This is a big milestone for us as our community is a big reason for why we do … ContinuedThe post We’re giving away two pizza watches to celebrate 200k followers appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

#TBT The Seiko Cronos Self Dater 718990 - High Style, Low Budget Fratello
Grand Seiko vibe May 16, 2024

#TBT The Seiko Cronos Self Dater 718990 - High Style, Low Budget

It has wide, massive lugs, a Grand Seiko vibe, a mechanical hand-wound movement, a date with magnifier, and no lume, just the contrasting beauty of the sunburst dial and polished hands and indexes. Oh, and let’s not forget an attractive price tag. You might say these things make this Seiko Cronos Self Dater a perfect […] Visit #TBT The Seiko Cronos Self Dater 718990 - High Style, Low Budget to read the full article.

Introducing – The Charming Old-School Spirit of the MeisterSinger Enamel Edition 1Z Monochrome
MeisterSinger May 14, 2024

Introducing – The Charming Old-School Spirit of the MeisterSinger Enamel Edition 1Z

With their single-handed time indications, MeisterSinger’s watches offer a refreshing change of tempo to our fast-paced, hyper-accurate digital universe. Founded in 2001 by Manfred Brassler in Münster, Germany, the brand’s inspiration resides in the sundials and single-hand tower clocks of the Middle Ages. In 2004, the brand released a special watch called the Edition 1Z. […]

First Look – The Armin Strom Gravity Equal Force Ultimate Sapphire Purple Monochrome
Armin Strom Gravity Equal Force Ultimate May 6, 2024

First Look – The Armin Strom Gravity Equal Force Ultimate Sapphire Purple

Armin Strom (1938) has gone down in the annals of watchmaking as a pioneer in the art of hand-skeletonisation. Now in the hands of Serge Michel and master watchmaker Claude Greisler, the independent watchmaking brand with 17 in-house calibres continues the master’s legacy of “transparent mechanics” with showstopping models like its Mirrored Force Resonance and […]

Glashütte Original Introduces the PanoMaticInverse “Dresden Tribute” SJX Watches
Glashütte Original Introduces May 2, 2024

Glashütte Original Introduces the PanoMaticInverse “Dresden Tribute”

A tribute to the German city of Dresden, the PanoMaticInverse Limited Edition depicts the city where the predecessor of Glashütte Original was founded in 1845. It retains the inverted movement construction that characterises the model, displaying the escapement on the dial, but here the three-quarter plate on the front sports a hand-engraved rendering of Dresden landmarks, the Frauenkirche and Academy of Fine Arts, while the bridges on the reverse are engraved with the Elbe promenade. Initial thoughts Although the brand itself was founded after the fall of the Berlin Wall, Glashütte Original (GO) has its roots in the very beginning of watchmaking in the Glashütte area. Because the brand was formed from the East German state-owned watchmaking enterprise, it was vertically integrated from the beginning, making it a true manufacture. It is somewhat under-appreciated compared to its neighbour, A. Lange & Söhne, although the two brands focus on different segments of the market, with Glashütte Original offering more affordable timepieces. The brand’s steel watches, for example, usually retail for under US$15,000. However, GO is capable of German haute horologerie, as demonstrated by its top-of-the-line timepieces like the Senator Chronometer Tourbillon. The PanoMaticInverse “Dresden Tribute” is one of the brand’s high-end offerings, with a retail price of US$47,400. Even though that’s a big number, the watch delivers substantial tangible quality. In addition to th...

The New Certina DS-7 Chrono Padel Edition By Marta Ortega Fratello
Certina DS-7 Chrono Padel Edition Apr 29, 2024

The New Certina DS-7 Chrono Padel Edition By Marta Ortega

The Certina DS-7 Chrono Padel Edition by Marta Ortega sheds light on a sport that has recently come to my attention. Padel is a big deal! Now the sport has a watch celebrating one of its most popular players. Marta also had a hand in designing the chronograph. I hadn’t heard much about padel until […] Visit The New Certina DS-7 Chrono Padel Edition By Marta Ortega to read the full article.

You want dial colours? Nomos has the answer! Time+Tide
Nomos has Apr 28, 2024

You want dial colours? Nomos has the answer!

Nomos Glahshütte has let loose with the colour wheel for its latest pieces, celebrating 175 years of watchmaking in Glashütte with 31 colourful versions of the Tangente 38. Each colourway is limited to 175 pieces and focuses on one of Nomos Glashütte’s best-selling models. This time, the Tangente 38 is fitted with a hand-wound DUW4101 … ContinuedThe post You want dial colours? Nomos has the answer! appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Seiko Marks 50th Years of Credor with Eichi II in Yellow Gold SJX Watches
Seiko Marks 50th Years Apr 25, 2024

Seiko Marks 50th Years of Credor with Eichi II in Yellow Gold

As its collection of decorative, high-end timepieces reaches its fifth decade, Seiko commemorates the occasion with the Credor 50th Anniversary Eichi II (ref. GBLT996) for the occasion. Limited to just 30 watches, this is the very first Eichi in yellow gold. The anniversary edition features a deep blue, ruri porcelain dial and the hand-finished Spring Drive cal. 7R14 inside. Like the other Credor Masterpiece models, the new Eichi II is produced at the Micro Artist Studio, a small workshop dedicated to artisanal watchmaking. Initial thoughts The new Eichi II is largely identical to the versions in platinum and rose gold, differing only in the case metal. It does, however, look very different. Although the ruri dial is identical to that on the platinum model, the colours seem richer here. Yellow gold and blue is a combination that works well, and it is particularly appealing here, perhaps because of the simplicity of the design. Notably, the anniversary Eichi II is priced in between the regular production versions in rose gold and platinum. Considering the small number made and the intrinsic quality of the watch, it is certainly a compelling proposition. Ruri glaze First found on the platinum model, the dark blue dial is finished with ruri, a type of glaze that results in a glossy, deep blue finish that varies in hue with the light. Instead of the stark white indices found on the platinum model, the dial markings here are in gold. However, the markings are more elaborate th...

Patek Philippe Introduces the Ref. 6301A-010 Grande Sonnerie “Only Watch” SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Introduces Apr 22, 2024

Patek Philippe Introduces the Ref. 6301A-010 Grande Sonnerie “Only Watch”

Having announced its return with an auction on May 10, 2024, Only Watch has finally revealed the watch that everyone has been waiting for: the Patek Philippe Grande and Petite Sonnerie Ref. 6301A-010 “Only Watch”. Based on the standard version of Patek Philippe’s clockwatch – which is the second most complicated watch in the brand’s catalogue – the ref. 6301A has a stainless steel case like several past Only Watch editions and more unusually, a Rare Handcrafts hand guilloche dial covered with blue-green translucent fired enamel and 12 baguette-cut diamond indices. For the moment, the ref. 6301A is the only timepiece in Only Watch 2024 that is an entirely new creation, while the rest of the offerings are carried over from last year’s event (though word has it a prominent independent watchmaker might be making significant modifications to his creation). Initial thoughts Patek Philippe’s original creation for the what was originally Only Watch 2023 was a unique version of the Minute Repeater Alarm ref. 1938P. After that got postponed to May this year, Patek Philippe replaced its original contribution with the ref. 6301A. Though only the dial differs from the standard version in terms of visuals, the ref. 6301A is strikingly different. With its elaborate dial, it looks less formal and more decorative. Thought arguably less surprising than the ref. 1938P that was an entirely new reference and complication, the ref. 6301A is more complicated, expensive, and elabo...