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The Quartz Crisis wasn’t solely to blame for the industry downfall, real trouble was brewing for years Time+Tide
Brew ing Apr 18, 2023

The Quartz Crisis wasn’t solely to blame for the industry downfall, real trouble was brewing for years

The history of timekeeping dates back to whenever the first creature wondered where the sun was in the sky, and the earliest evidence for calendars comes from Babylon and Egypt 5,000 years ago. In all that time, there haven’t been any horological events that are mentioned with as much dread as the Quartz Crisis. After … ContinuedThe post The Quartz Crisis wasn’t solely to blame for the industry downfall, real trouble was brewing for years appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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[VIDEO] Owner’s Review: The Formex Essence Leggera Worn & Wound
Formex Essence Leggera Apr 14, 2023

[VIDEO] Owner’s Review: The Formex Essence Leggera

A big part of the appeal of micro-brands* rests in their ability to exercise a greater level of general creativity to bring a specific vision to life, something we’ve always found value in around here. We’ve seen some pretty sophisticated stuff take shape, from unique hand sets and dials, to wandering hours and composite cases. One brand in particular has proven rather adept at implementing what I have no issues calling exotic engineering solutions to their watches, and that brand is Formex. With “roots in high-end watch manufacturing” that should come as no surprise, and while the brand’s own aesthetic has undergone some pretty wild transitions, they seem to have landed in a cohesive space with their latest generations of watches in the Essence, Reef, and Field collections.  *Okay, Formex isn’t exactly a micro-brand. They are attached to that noted “high-end watch manufacturer” in a way that very, very few brands (large or small) are. This allows them access to engineer solutions for things like quick adjustment mechanisms in a manner that almost zero micro-brands can. Formex is a small (but not really) manufacturer that produces their own watches, which take full advantage of that fact. The micro-brand or small-independent nomenclature doesn’t neatly apply here, but given the price points that Formex tends to play in, I view them along the same lines as more traditional micro-brands the likes of which we frequently discuss around here. $1790 [VIDEO] Ow...

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SJX W&W; Highlights – The Unexpected and the Well-Executed SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Calatrava 24-Hour Display Travel Apr 7, 2023

SJX W&W; Highlights – The Unexpected and the Well-Executed

Because it was the world’s biggest watch brands showing off their latest products at Watches & Wonders (W&W;), surprises seemed unlikely. Yet there were a few surprises at the fair, with several coming from the most conservative brand of all, Rolex, which debuted the now infamous “Bubbles” and “Puzzle”. But the unexpected aside, the fair also saw a number of well-executed new models that were just right, most notably from Cartier, which stuck to what it does well. The Tank Normale in yellow gold with a matching bracelet Surprises A surprise launch, but certainly not unexpected as a highlight, is the Patek Philippe Calatrava 24-Hour Display Travel Time ref. 5224R. Although it appears to be a typical Calatrava at a distance, the ref. 5224R is elegantly different. For one, it is surprisingly large for a Calatrava at 42 mm but typically thin at under 9 mm. The ref. 5224R More unusual is the 24-hour display that is a convenient and smart method of showing two time zones without the need for a day and night indicator. But as is often the case with Patek Philippe, the novelty of the watch was not invented. Its key features, namely the time display and case size, are rooted in history – the watch is modelled on the oversized Chronometro Gondolo pocket watches of the early 20th century. But at over US$57,000, the ref. 5224R is unusually expensive for a two-time zone watch, though that is explained in part by the high-end movement inside that’s shared with the top-of-t...

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Highlights: Artisanal Timepieces at Sotheby’s Hong Kong SJX Watches
Audemars Piguet Rolls Royce Phantom II” Apr 1, 2023

Highlights: Artisanal Timepieces at Sotheby’s Hong Kong

Having covered the notable from independent watchmaking and complications at Sotheby’s Hong Kong auction on April 5, we turn to timepieces that are all about artisanal crafts, ranging from cloisonné and marquetry. Amongst the highlight is a Patek Philippe Dome Clock depicting the African savannah in cloisonné and another is the Cartier Tortue ref. 2496 with the jeweller’s signature panther motif. Important Watches I takes place on April 5, 2023. Registration for bidding and the catalogue can be accessed here. Lot 2101: Cartier Tortue LM Panthere This wristwatch two enduring elements of Cartier design, a form case and the panther motif. It’s a large-size Tortue – French for “turtle” – with a panther on the dial in champleve enamel. The large variant of the Tortue (instead of the oversized “XL”), this measures 34 mm in diameter, giving the dial ample real estate for the panther. The panther’s visage is executed in champlevé, where the dial base is first engraved with the motif before being painted and fired. This is powered by the cal. 430 MC, an ultra-thin manual mechanical movement that is actually the Piaget cal. 430P. Accompanied by its box and papers, this has an estimate of HK$200,000-300,000, or about US$25,000-38,200. You can find out more in the catalogue. Lot 2131: Audemars Piguet “Rolls Royce Phantom II” Before becoming synonyms with the Royal Oak, Audemars Piguet (AP) produced a diversity of elaborately decorated wrist- and pocket watc...

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Highlights: Complications at Sotheby’s Hong Kong Auction SJX Watches
Patek Philippe ref 5016 Mar 23, 2023

Highlights: Complications at Sotheby’s Hong Kong Auction

Having covered highlights from independent watchmakers at Sotheby’s upcoming Important Watches I auction in Hong Kong, we now dive into the complicated timepieces in the sale that takes place on April 5. We look at eight notable lots. Some, like the platinum Patek Philippe ref. 5016 with its minute repeater, perpetual calendar, and tourbillon, are amongst the most valuable in the sale. But the catalogue also has value buys, notably including offerings from jewellers like Cartier, Van Cleef & Arpels, and Bulgari. Registration for bidding and the entire catalogue can be accessed here. The Patek Philippe ref. 5016P Lot 2137: Van Cleef & Arpels Lady Arpels Pont des Amoureux One of the most poetic timepieces by the Parisian jeweller, the Pont des Amoureux was a watch that helped make Van Cleef & Arpels as a watchmaker. This watch is the original and cleanest version of the model, which was discontinued in 2019 and replaced by a revised version. The watch is all about a uniquely whimsical depiction of the passing of time. A double retrograde display takes the form of two figures: a lady with an umbrella indicates the hours whilst a gentleman marks the minutes. The two figures move towards one another over the course of 12 hours, until they meet and “kiss” on top of the bridge that overlooks the Seine river – this happens twice in a day, at midday and midnight. The dial is executed in grisaille enamel, a meticulous process that dates back to the 16th century. The techn...

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The MoonSwatch Goes Gold With New Mission To Moonshine Worn & Wound
Omega MoonSwatch Speedmaster gets Mar 7, 2023

The MoonSwatch Goes Gold With New Mission To Moonshine

The tumultuous story of the SWATCH x Omega MoonSwatch Speedmaster gets a new chapter today with the release of the MoonSwatch Mission To Moonshine Gold. If you were hoping a second release within this collection would offer greater availability after lessons learned with the initial launch, you’re in for a surprise. This special edition MoonSwatch, which makes use of Omega’s Moonshine gold in the timing seconds hand, will only be available for purchase today, and only in the cities of London, Milan, Zürich and Tokyo. Get ready for more crazy tik-tok videos circulating the internet.  At a glance, the latest MoonSwatch appears to closely resemble the existing Mission to the Moon, and indeed that appears to be the base at work here, even depicting the moon on the caseback. There is one striking difference, however, and that is the use of Omega’s proprietary Moonshine gold in a specific component. Moonshine gold is a rather unique alloy, consisting of silver, copper and palladium to achieve a slightly desaturated appearance compared with regular yellow gold, and it’s worked beautifully in some of our favorite high-end Speedmaster releases in recent years. Here, the material is relegated to the timing seconds hand of the chronograph. Making a subtle but noticeable impact on the overall appearance. Use of this material lends not only to the name, Mission to Moonshine Gold, but is also relevant to the cities that were selected to host sales of the watch. Each has a conn...

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HBO’s Succession to end with upcoming season 4. Here are past horological highlights Time+Tide
Feb 24, 2023

HBO’s Succession to end with upcoming season 4. Here are past horological highlights

Yesterday, Jessie Armstrong, creator and showrunner of HBO’s hit television series Succession, revealed that season 4 would be the show’s last. He told The New Yorker he remains conflicted about the decision – and we devout viewers are certainly conflicted with whether or not we are ready for the show to end as well. But, … ContinuedThe post HBO’s Succession to end with upcoming season 4. Here are past horological highlights appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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Business News: Grand Seiko Opens First Singapore Boutique SJX Watches
Grand Seiko Opens First Singapore Boutique Feb 23, 2023

Business News: Grand Seiko Opens First Singapore Boutique

Grand Seiko has just opened the first of its own boutiques in Asia outside of Japan, which is located at the Marina Bay Sands casino resort in Singapore. Situated along a corridor alongside major luxury watch brands, the store reflects Grand Seiko’s ambitions in positioning itself alongside establishment brands. The inaugural store run by Grand Seiko’s recently-established Asian arm, it becomes the new platform for enthusiasts to experience the brand’s timepieces, including its top-of-the-line complications. It’s the first milestone for Grand Seiko Asia-Pacific, the joint venture set up last year with its longtime retailer in the region, Thong Sia Watch Co. Ltd.  Akio Naito, Chairman of Grand Seiko Asia-Pacific and President of the Seiko Watch Corporation, explained the choice of the city state for its first boutique in the region: “Singapore is home to some of the most knowledgeable and passionate luxury watch enthusiasts in the world, and we are excited to provide them with a more direct interaction with the brand…” Keeping in line with the brand’s philosophy, “The Nature of Time”, the boutique’s interior is modern while sticking to traditional materials and details. The store sports a clean, modern design with warm wood for the floor and cabinets, retaining the subtle, Japanese refinement that the brand is known for.  The boutique is also the place for clients and enthusiasts to learn more about the brand. In particular, it allows them to experi...

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The Best Rolex Watches for Collectors and the Stories Behind Them Teddy Baldassarre
Rolex Feb 8, 2023

The Best Rolex Watches for Collectors and the Stories Behind Them

Rolex watches are indisputably some of the most popular and coveted timepieces on the planet, and every watch enthusiast has their own ideas about (and often their own criteria for) what the best Rolex watches are. But how much do you really know about how your favorite Rolex model came about, why exactly it's so special and distinct from all the rest, and in some cases why it is historically significant to the watch industry as a whole? In this feature, we take a tour through nine of the most important and/or interesting Rolex watches, from their original conception to their place in the modern horological canon.  Origins of an Icon The most famous Swiss watch brand in the world was originally not even Swiss: it was founded by a German in the United Kingdom. Hans Wilsdorf (1861-1960), an orphan raised by his uncles in Kulmbach, Germany, learned entrepreneurship and self-sufficiency early in life, and began his career in the Swiss watch industry in 1900 when he started as a clerk at the watchmaking firm of Cuno Korten in La Chaux-de-Fonds, responsible for the maintenance and accuracy of hundreds of pocket watches per day. In 1905, two years after moving to London, Wilsdorf (below) partnered with another businessman named Alfred Davis to establish Wilsdorf & Davis, the company that would become Rolex. Wilsdorf & Davis, based in London’s Hatton Garden commercial district, was founded with a mandate to make reliably precise watches at affordable prices.  In 1914, days...

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[Video Review] Norqain Gets Adventurous With Wild One & Norteq Worn & Wound
Norqain Gets Adventurous Feb 6, 2023

[Video Review] Norqain Gets Adventurous With Wild One & Norteq

I see plenty of discussion around the idea of a GADA watch within the watch enthusiast space, that is the concept of a Go Anywhere, Do Anything watch. Of course, each of us has our own criteria for what the perfect GADA watch must have, but these are generally watches that do a good job of skirting between the boundaries of any specific genre. Ultimately, a watch is what we make of it; clearly not many of us are divers or pilots, yet many of us enjoy watches specifically ascribed to these realms. We’ve seen a growing trend of brands simply labeling their watches in broadly generic terms, like ‘active watch’ or ‘sport watch’ implying it can stand up to the rigors of more average human activities. More walks in the park or sledding with your kids and less diving to 300 meters or calculating fuel loads in an old war plane.  I say all this to set up the discussion around a new(ish) watch from Norqain called the Wild One, a watch which the brand describes as the “ultimate sports watch”. It’s got all the impressive specs you’d associate with modern dive or field watches, like a 300 meter depth rating and a chronometer rated movement, but it’s not being positioned explicitly as a dive watch, or a field watch. It’s a sports watch. For my lifestyle, a GADA watch closely resembles what I’d consider a sports watch, so this billing was good news to me. It should be easy to wear regardless of activity, able to put up with some light wear and tear, be legible, a...

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Just a Minute with Windup Watch Shop’s Italian Leather Straps Worn & Wound
Jan 25, 2023

Just a Minute with Windup Watch Shop’s Italian Leather Straps

Let’s take just a minute with the entire range of Italian made, leather straps available here at the Windup Watch Shop. Hoyt, Roadster, Wyckoff, Degraw, and Sackett come in a wide variety of colors, with finishing that define them: the Hoyt with it’s matte leather and no-stitch design, the Roadster with it’s breathable, rally styling, the Wykoff with it’s pebble grain leather three quarter-stitched accents, the Degraw with it’s full-stitched nubuck upper leather, and the Sackett for that classic suede look with full-stitched accents. Let’s take just a minute with the entire range of Italian made, leather straps available here at the Windup Watch Shop. Hoyt, Roadster, Wyckoff, Degraw, and Sackett come in a wide variety of colors, with finishing that define them: the Hoyt with it’s matte leather and no-stitch design, the Roadster with it’s breathable, rally styling, the Wykoff with it’s pebble grain leather three quarter-stitched accents, the Degraw with it’s full-stitched nubuck upper leather, and the Sackett for that classic suede look with full-stitched accents. The post Just a Minute with Windup Watch Shop’s Italian Leather Straps appeared first on Worn & Wound.

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Unholy Grail: Why the comically dated TAG Heuer S/el is a true guilty pleasure Time+Tide
TAG Heuer S/el Jan 21, 2023

Unholy Grail: Why the comically dated TAG Heuer S/el is a true guilty pleasure

No matter how tasteful your watch collection, no matter how stuffed your portfolio is with blue chip stocks like no-date Subs, pre-Moon Speedys, or the perfect Cartier Tank, there’s probably a black sheep lurking somewhere. Your questionable choices. Your dark secrets. The one that’s horribly out of fashion, objectively unattractive, or just plain bizarre. Be … ContinuedThe post Unholy Grail: Why the comically dated TAG Heuer S/el is a true guilty pleasure appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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Watches & Wonders Geneva Announces Public Days SJX Watches
Vacheron Constantin Jan 18, 2023

Watches & Wonders Geneva Announces Public Days

The world’s biggest luxury-watch fair, Watches & Wonders (W&W;), is set to take place in Geneva from March 27 to April 2, 2023 at the Palexpo convention centre. The successor to both SIHH and Baselworld, W&W; will see forty-eight brands showcase their latest. This year’s exhibitors include Rolex, Patek Philippe, Chanel, as well as the the big luxury groups, namely Richemont, which owns Cartier, Vacheron Constantin, and A. Lange & Söhne, and LVMH, owner of TAG Heuer, Zenith, and Hublot. W&W; will be open to the public on its final two days of April 1 and 2. Tickets, however, will be required to attend W&W;. They will be available for purchase on the W&W; website starting February 1, 2023, at 12 pm (GMT+1). A ticket costs CHF 70, similar to that of Baselworld. Beyond the fair in Palexpo, W&W; also encompasses events in the city centre meant to enhance accessibility. Exhibiting brands with boutiques along Rue du Rhône and Rues Basses, adjacent streets in Geneva’s prime shopping area, will stage their own events and exhibitions in their stores. At the same time, the organising body of W&W; will have talks and panel discussions at its headquarters at Pont de la Machine. The public days of W&W; bring it closer to the Baselworld model, which historically opened its doors to one and all, both in terms of exhibitors and visitors. As a result, Baselworld enjoyed a six-figure visitors numbers in its best years (though its exhibitors included the jewellery trade and suppliers). In ...

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The F.P. Journe Young Talent Competition is Now Open SJX Watches
F.P. Journe Young Talent Competition Jan 13, 2023

The F.P. Journe Young Talent Competition is Now Open

An annual award that seeks to recognise and support promising watchmakers, the F.P. Journe Young Talent Competition (YTC) is open for submissions until February 1, 2023. The entry criteria is straightforward: watchmakers aged between 18 and 30 from any country who have “independently designed and created a timepiece and/or technical construction”, but professional qualifications or training are not necessary. The prize is a CHF20,000 grant meant to finance tools or a watchmaking project. The contest will be judged by a panel including Francois-Paul Journe himself and Giulio Papi, who will select the winner based on originality, technical complexity, aesthetics and finishing, as well as quality of make. Candidates can submit their entries on Fpjourne.com from now until February 1, 2023.  

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MICRO MONDAYS: The Vario Versa is two-faced in the best possible way Time+Tide
Jaeger-LeCoultre chances are Nov 28, 2022

MICRO MONDAYS: The Vario Versa is two-faced in the best possible way

Let’s not beat around the bush. If you’ve spent any time lusting over releases from Jaeger-LeCoultre, chances are that you’ve fallen in love with a few different versions of the Reverso Duoface. Similarly, if you’ve been following Cartier’s releases, the colourful additions to the Tank Must revival have had watch enthusiasts absolutely smitten from the … ContinuedThe post MICRO MONDAYS: The Vario Versa is two-faced in the best possible way appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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The ‘do’s and don’ts’ of Octo Finissimo design with Bulgari’s Fabrizio Buonamassa Stigliani Time+Tide
Bulgari s Fabrizio Buonamassa Stigliani Oct 2, 2022

The ‘do’s and don’ts’ of Octo Finissimo design with Bulgari’s Fabrizio Buonamassa Stigliani

Of all the people we get to interview in my line of work, the most interesting people to sit down with are the watch designers themselves. To hear the philosophy behind a design from the creator, provides key insight into the past, present and future of a collection. Unfortunately, by the time I joined the … ContinuedThe post The ‘do’s and don’ts’ of Octo Finissimo design with Bulgari’s Fabrizio Buonamassa Stigliani appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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Behind The Lens: Beat Haldimann H1 Flying Central Tourbillon – Reprise Quill & Pad
Jun 25, 2022

Behind The Lens: Beat Haldimann H1 Flying Central Tourbillon – Reprise

In GaryG's view, every successful independent watchmaker has elements of a “house style” that may attract some buyers and put off others, but nonetheless set them apart. And, at the highest level, this style goes beyond “branding” to become an expression of the personality and artistic vision of the creator. Beat Haldimann and his small team distinguish themselves by focusing on technical virtuosity of the highest order as typified by the Haldimann H1 Flying Central Tourbillon.

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