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Monochrome
The Unitas, known under the names ETA 6498 and 6497 (depending on its configuration, Lépine or Savonette), is without a doubt one of the most important and most long-lasting movements of the Swiss industry. This simple, no-nonsense but reliable hand-wound movement has been produced since the 1950s, yet originates from classic pocket watch calibres. Often […]
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RGM Watch Co. recently bestowed an artisanal touch on its time-only Model 25 with the “Birds of America (Glossy Ibis)” with a mother-of-pearl dial featuring a miniature painting that reproduces a drawing from John James Audubon’s famous book of the same name. Notably, the Birds of America is also equipped with an ETA calibre upgraded by RGM to have a power reserve that’s 30% longer. Initial thoughts RGM was historically a guilloche specialist – notably the brand does traditional engine turning in house – so the Birds of America is a logical diversification that continues the brand’s speciality. Though the artisan responsible for the miniature painting is unnamed, the dial is impressively rendered with a skilful depiction of the bird. The details of the ibis are practically as vivid as in Audubon’s illustration. Interestingly, the Birds of America is not merely a stylistic exercise. A significant feature is the upgraded ETA 2892 inside that has a 53-56 hour power reserve, a significant enhancement over the standard 44 hours, which was achieved with in-house upgrades according to RGM. This release is priced at U$17,900, and comparable commissions depicting others birds from Audubon’s book will cost similar. It’s more affordable than comparable watches from established Swiss brands, making it a relatively good value proposition. After Audubon The latest release is based on a plate depicting the glossy ibis in The Birds of America, the landmark work by...
Monochrome
The ETA Valjoux 7750 chronograph movement is well-known in the world of watchmaking for being tough, reliable, and versatile. Since it was first introduced in the early 1970s, it has gained a strong reputation for being accurate and long-lasting, which has made it a favourite chronograph calibre among both watchmakers and enthusiasts. In addition, the […]
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A bestseller thanks to its integrated-bracelet design and accessible price, the Tissot PRX now gets more new dial options, including a “light green” hue for the time-only PRX Powermatic 80 and a “graded” green for the PRX Chronograph. The new green dials join the recent blue dial options and more compact 35mm model. Initial thoughts The new models are only cosmetic updates, but are otherwise the same. The brushed steel cases and ETA movements remain unchanged. So do the respective prices, making them the same value propositions as before. Notably, the chronograph dial gets a more substantive cosmetic upgrade beyond the colour. It now sports the waffle-patterned dial previously found only on the PRX time-only models. This is an attractive upgrade that imbues the model with a sportier aesthetic. New dial options The Powermatic 80’s dial features the same waffle pattern found in past models, but now finished in a “light” green hue that first seen on the quartz version released in 2021. The chronograph dial is presented in a darker shade of green with a gradient finish. It also gains the same stamped pattern found on the time-only model. This marks a departure from previous iterations of the chronograph, which were characterised by a vertically brushed finish with a two-colour scheme. Both watches retain the same case dimensions and movements found on earlier models. The three-hander is powered by the Powermatic 80.111, derived from the ETA C07.111. Tissot has e...
Two Broke Watch Snobs
The C63 Valour is accurate to +/- 10 seconds a year with its ETA G10.212 AD COSC movement. It has been tested rigorously over 13 days and at 3 different temperatures and 4 separate humidity levels to ensure its thermal compensation abilities and consistency. On top of that, the movement neatly displays running seconds at 6 o’clock, a 30-minute register at 10 o’clock, and a 1/10th seconds counter at 2 o’clock.
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Making the most of an ETA hand-wound classic, Maen introduce a properly refined integrated-bracelet proposition.The post The Maen Manhattan 39 takes its ’70s inspo bigger and slimmer appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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Having already launched the Luminor Chrono Carbotech as the PAM01419 Navy Seals limited edition, Panerai is now adding it to the regular production line-up as the Luminor Chrono Carbotech PAM01219. Featuring the same carbon composite case and ETA-based P.9200 movement, the PAM01219 has a restrained, functional dial with blue accents. Initial thoughts The PAM01219 is a new version of the ETA-powered Panerai chronograph, so while it’s nothing novel technically, it is appealing for the no-frills design and lightweight carbon composite case. Prior versions of this chronograph were either less interesting, like the base model PAM01109 in steel, or over designed, like the PAM01419 Navy Seals edition with its sniper crosshair sub-dials. Stylistically, the PAM01219 is clear, clean, and free of superfluous elements. However, the PAM01219 is too expensive. It’s priced at about US$17,000, which is pricey any way you slice it, especially since most watches with the same movement from rival brands cost less (and much less in the case of the Tudor Pelagos FXD Chrono). At the same time, Panerai’s own catalogue includes the PAM00335 that has a ceramic case and in-house movement boasting an eight-day movement and mono-pusher chronograph, which makes it comparatively better value at just over US$20,000. Large, lightweight, and ETA The PAM01219 is classic Panerai in style with a clean dial that is a key part of its appeal. The dial is also symmetrical with a 30-minute chronograph count...
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Tissot has gone decidedly retro with its latest pair, the Heritage 1938 and the Heritage Small Second 1938. The designs reinterpret the brand’s watches of the 1930s, but are presented in a modern-yet-compact 39 mm case containing COSC-certified ETA movements. Initial thoughts Tissot has been enjoying success with the sporty PRX collection and the 1970s-style Sideral. However, it didn’t have many compelling dress watches in its catalogue until now. Therefore, this vintage-inspired pair captured my interest. Between the two, my preference is for the Heritage 1938, a straightforward three-hander. As one who appreciates classical proportions, I like the tasteful dial and compact 39 mm case. Having said that, “Chronometre” at six o’clock feels somewhat incongruous and could have been omitted altogether. At the same time, the small-seconds model has a date that three that just doesn’t look right. With a price of US$825 for the three-hander and US$1,050 for the small-seconds, the two are appropriately priced considering the movement and specs. Tissot’s sister company Longines offers higher-spec version of the same movements in its dress watches, but for more money. Vintage-inspired Tissot’s Heritage collection is all about reinterpreting historical timepieces. True to the name, the 1938 is reminiscent of the watches produced during the 1930s. The 1938 is available in two variations: a three-hander and a small-seconds. The three-hander is available in either m...
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Certina is introducing a small wrist-friendly version of their capable DS Action diver in 34.5mm The collection consists of five references with classically coloured lacquer or blingier mother-of-pearl dials As part of the Swatch Group, Certina has access to the ever-popular ETA Powermatic 80, choosing it to power this new release Often overlooked for its … ContinuedThe post Certina’s new all-purpose DS Action 34.5mm shows good things come in small packages appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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The Baume & Mercier Riviera GMT finally acknowledges travel as part of a luxury lifestyle. The latest Riviera wave dial is stunning in either silver or blue. It’s powered by an ETA 2893-2 base movement. The Baume & Mercier Riviera has always been a lifestyle compliment, ever since its release in 1973. When the luxury … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Baume & Mercier Riviera GMT appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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Historically reliant on ETA and Sellita, Bell & Ross is employing Kenissi movements for the first time in the BR-X5. Though evidently evolved from the BR05, the BR-X5 is endowed with a more complex, modular case. That, in addition to the high-spec Kenissi movement, means the BR-X5 is the new flagship sports watch for Bell & Ross (B&R;). Initial thoughts The BR-X5 is very much typical B&R; in terms of aesthetics with its squarish bezel secured by screws and legible dial. In fact, it is easy to mistake this for the BR05 at a distance, but up close it is clear that the BR-X5 is a big step up in terms of quality. The Kenissi movement certainly outperforms the ETA and Sellita calibres found in the BR05, while the case has a more complex construction that gives it more versatility in terms of materials. The BR-X5 is making its debut with a model entirely in steel as well as a fancier version in titanium and carbon that best illustrates the modular, layered construction of the case The improved case and movement, however, come at a price. The BR-X5 costs about 50% more than the equivalent BR05, a premium that is easily justified by the technical improvements. However, relative to the rest of the B&R; line-up the BR-X5 is pricey for a time-only watch, which means it will likely only make sense for those who appreciate and understand the tangible qualities of the watch over its less expensive siblings in the B&R; catalogue. Familiar design, new mechanics The centrepiece of the BR-X5 is...
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Louis Vuitton is now in its 20th year as a watchmaker. In that time it has gone from basic, ETA-powered watches to a variety of impressive complications, including its signature Spin Time, and even a minute repeater with automaton. To mark the occasion, Louis Vuitton (LV) has just announced the Tambour Twenty Chronograph, a remake modelled on the brand’s first serious mechanical timepiece. The two-decade journey has seen LV’s watchmaking division evolve from a shared space inside TAG Heuer’s factory to its own expansive facility in Geneva that includes not only a complications workshop but also its own dial-making facility. While LV does make some of its own movements now, the Tambour Twenty is a nod to its origins as a watchmaker. The 200-piece limited edition is modelled on the Tambour LV277 of 2003, the brand’s first chronograph that was powered by the Zenith El Primero. Initial thoughts Despite its odd proportions – a big case with tall, sloping sides and narrow lugs – the Tambour case is attractive in my eyes. And it’s distinctive and recognisable although its form is fairly simple. In short, it’s a successful design. The Tambour works especially well with complications since that gives its size – especially its thickness – a sense of purpose. Ordinarily I am not a fan of brown dials, but this is one of the few dials in the colour that looks good. LV executes its dials well – most of them are made in-house – and the reflective metallic brown o...
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I’m fairly certain that the E, T, A, 2, 8 and 4 keys on my keyboard have faded more than others. Despite their claims of no longer supplying off-the-shelf movements, ETA still has a significant stronghold on Swiss movement manufacture, partly due to supplying the Swatch Group. This makes it incredibly difficult for any newcomers … ContinuedThe post Movement manufacturer La Joux-Perret take on Swiss giants appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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Originally launched with a quartz movement in early 2021, the Tissot PRX really caught on when it got an automatic movement a few months later. Equipped with a cost-efficient yet high tech ETA calibre, the PRX Powermatic 80 costs just US$650 – making it an easily affordable iteration of the integrated-bracelet sports watch. Initial thoughts Modelled on the Seastar ref. 40205 launched in 1978 – it’s practically a remake in fact – the PRX Powermatic 80 doesn’t try to do too much. Instead it focuses on doing just a few things right, just enough to look good while maintaining its affordability. Its modest price tag is evident up close, but the PRX still looks good enough on the wrist. The PRX Powermatic 80 successfully reproduces the feel of the 1978 original. It’s a little bit bigger, but still compact by modern standards. More importantly, the PRX retains the right proportions in terms of case, bracelet, and dial. One of its best features is its size. At 40 mm wide and 10.9 mm high, the PRX is just right. The case middle is fairly thin and matched with an equally thin bracelet – that has a solid double-fold clasp – giving it a refined feel on the wrist. As for the design, it’s a good look – and certainly a popular one today – but derivative. That’s because the 1978 original itself was fairly generic. The 1978 Seastar was just one of many watches that shared a style that was popular in the late 1970s and well into the 1980s. One of the most obvio...
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Launched in 1983 – with the driving force behind its conception being Ernst Thomke, the then-chief of movement manufacturer ETA – Swatch set out to be the antithesis of the traditional Swiss-made watch. Cased in plastic and quartz, the Swatch watch was cheap, cheerful, and vividly colourful. But it was a hit, with its unusual, funky styling making the Swatch a fashion statement – a million watches were sold in the first year. To celebrate the occasion, Swatch constructed a 13-tonne, 162 m-long mega-watch and hung it from the front of the Commerzbank skyscraper in Frankfurt. A homage to London’s Big Ben, the giant clock was a brilliant publicity stunt that boldly announced the ambitions of Swatch. The oversized watch indicated the time and three pieces of information: “Swatch”, “Swiss”, and the retail price of “DM60”. Now Swatch is remembering 1984 with a quintet of watches, each a recreation of the year’s bestsellers, but with a twist. Instead of plastic as the originals were, the remakes have cases of Bioceramic, while the straps are made of bio-sourced plastic – making the entire watch a little friendlier to the environmental than the 1980s originals. Initial thoughts Given the diverse and imaginative offerings at Swatch, it’s unusual for the company to reissue vintage watches, though it’s done a couple in the recent past. Interestingly, the 1984 collection resonates with the broader, luxury-watch market, which frequently returns to past hit...
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Earlier this week, the watch community joined the author of this piece in expressing their disdain when a particular watch brand, to put it nicely, was not forthcoming about what was powering their new novelty. In short, there are accusations the brand’s purported “in-house movement” on a particular model was, in fact, made by ETA … ContinuedThe post FRIDAY WIND DOWN: Hey brands, put all the spec cards on the table or your bluff will get called appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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The Doxa SUB 200 harks back to a golden era in recreational diving timepieces. Released in 2019, it’s an affordable, Swiss-made 200m water-resistant three-hander with an ETA 2824-2 movement, from a venerable brand with a rich association with dive watches. That heritage perhaps informs the watch’s robust functionality with its sapphire crystal, sapphire bezel and … ContinuedThe post An owner’s guide to the pros, cons and timeless style of the Doxa SUB 200 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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Located in the town of Renaison, a five-hour drive south of Paris, Horlogerie V Remontet is named after its founder, Valentin Remontet. A young watchmaker who who spent three years at TAG Heuer and then Breguet before striking out on his own, Mr Remontet started his brand with conventional, round watches powered by ETA movements. He has since moved on to watches that are inventive and modern in style and construction. Mr Remontet’s latest is the Time Capsule, a avant-garde watch that has an unorthodox regulator-style display along with unconventional hourstriker. Initial thoughts With the fashion of the day in niche independent watchmaking being classical watchmaking with a heavy Breguet numerals or a “sector” dial, Mr Remontet’s watch is decidedly bold – and also impressive. Its aesthetic is highly technical, and matched by genuinely creative mechanics. The movement is clearly an original construction, even if it does use some components from common calibres. The style is certainly not for everyone – I find it a bit too extreme – but the fresh, bold nature of the Time Capsule is impressive. And the €17,000 price, which is about US$21,000, is fair considering the work in both development and manufacture. Preserving a memory Mr Remontet works along, and fabricates much of the watch himself – including the gaskets for the case – with some components produced by a French micro-machining specialist in micro machining. As a result, Mr Remontet says about 90...
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As far as ubiquitous movements go, the SW200 and its variants is one to make your eyes light up when you see it on a specification sheet. Originally a clone of the ever-loved ETA 2824, once the patent had expired, Sellita’s version remains just as reliable, affordable and well-performing as its ETA twin. The 4Hz … ContinuedThe post Watches by movement: 5 watches powered with an SW200 from divers to dress appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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Zelos Watches stand out for their well-honed design vision and obsession with details that puts them firmly on the microbrand podium. Elshan Tang, the owner and designer, releases a steady stream of new stock on their website, ranging from chunky bronze divers to dress watches with elaborate ETA movements. But whatever Zelos offer, it’s quickly … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Zelos Watches Blacktip 200m is one of the best-value divers around appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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One of TAG Heuer’s most distinctive watches because of its angular, square case, the Monaco turned 50 last year and the brand marked the occasion with a variety of limited edition watches as well as a hand-finished, one-off watch that was sold to benefit charity. At the same time, the regular-production Monaco in blue – arguably the quintessential Monaco design – received a substantial upgrade, with the ETA movement replaced with the in-house cal. Heuer 02. The Monaco Calibre Heuer 02 is now also available with a black dial, and a new, retro-inspired Monaco bracelet is also making its debut. Initial thoughts The Monaco is an intrinsically interesting watch because of its case. But TAG Heuer has produced many iterations that unfortunately look similar – despite having different movements – making it difficult to distinguish between them. The latest variant still looks similar, but manages to stand out from the crowd thanks to the bracelet, which has not been part of TAG Heuer’s offerings in a long time. The new bracelet is modelled on the 1970s original, but has been made more robust while being finished better. The result is a bracelet looks original and sporty. There have been numerous Monaco variations, but most were solidly constructed and well priced. The same appears to be true here. While the Monaco Heuer 02 has a new movement and bracelet, it retains the well finished case that’s a wearable 39 mm, along with the symmetrical, “Compax” dial layou...
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Twenty-nine year-old Stefan Ketelaars started his eponymous brand in 2017, producing watches based on the ETA Unitas 6497 and 6498 but modified in a novel manner while still being affordable, starting at just €3,800, or about US$4,300. His signature complications are the “flying regulator” time display and spherical day and night display, but most notable is the balance wheel repositioned to the front of the watch. The most recent model unveiled by Ketelaars Watches, the 3D Terra in Motion with Reverse Balance. The new watch builds on his earlier creation that features a miniature Earth that functions as a day and night display, but adds on the elevated balance wheel. Like the rest of his watches, the 3D Terra in Motion is powered by a heavily modified Unitas 6497. But unlike the usual modified-Unitas fare in this price range that reshape the bridges for a new look, Mr Ketelaars retains most of the components on the back and instead reworks the front. From the back, the distinctive Unitas bridges retain the same shape, but enhanced with pronounced, sloping bevelling on all the edges. The anglage is wide enough that its top edge almost touches the countersinks for the nearby screws and jewels. A Ketelaars Unitas 6497 with a standard balance wheel on the back; the bridges are finished with radial graining and anglage The Reverse Balance The most significant modification on the new 3D Terra in Motion is the repositioning of the balance wheel. Instead of being on the...
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Just before the new year, Swiss competition regulator COMCO, also known by its German acronym Weko, announced a provisional suspension of ETA’s right to sell movements to third-party brands. Once the dominant supplier of mechanical movements in Switzerland, ETA and its parent Swatch Group have been embroiled in a decades-long dispute with COMCO over the movement maker’s allegedly anticompetitive practices. Now the dispute between Switzerland’s largest watchmaking group and COMCO has taken a fresh turn with the Swatch Group filing a complaint with the Swiss federal court on January 20, demanding a repeal of COMCO’s decision to suspend sales, a move first reported by Swiss newspaper Neue Zürcher Zeitung (NZZ). An example of an ETA movement with upgraded features that ETA only supplies to sister brands; seen here inside a Hamilton According to the competition agency, the suspension of sales is meant to further weaken ETA’s market power as a major movement supplier, while allowing space for other movement suppliers to ramp up production and build their order books. The suspension remains in force until summer 2020, when COMCO will reach a final verdict on ETA’s rights and obligations. COMCO did allow a narrow exception to the ban, allowing ETA to sell its movements to small- and medium-sized watch brands that are existing clients. But the exception came a stipulation: Swatch Group has to treat all clients equally, which means selling movements to one small brand...
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Editor’s note: It may surprise the uninitiated to read this, but creating a completely new calibre, in-house, from scratch, is a very, very costly exercise. And there’s a reason that most boutique and micro watchmakers stick to third-party movements from the likes of ETA and Sellita, because to make their own movements is financially unviable. … ContinuedThe post Germanic genius: the Nomos Tangente neomatik 41 Update appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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Though extremely rare, the George Daniels Anniversary Watch is a familiar timepiece because it has been widely covered and is arguably the signature George Daniels wristwatch. Though the Daniels Millennium was made in larger numbers, it was powered by a modified Omega (and by extension, ETA) movement. In contrast, the Anniversary relies on a proprietary movement designed by Daniels and his protege Roger W. Smith – and it’s almost a visual twin of the one-off Daniels chronograph wristwatch. But the basic architecture of the Anniversary movement comes from the movement in Series 2, the trademark Roger W. Smith timepiece, which was launched in 2006, three years before the Anniversary. The white gold Anniversary next to the owner’s other example in yellow gold The quintessential Daniels Anniversary is in yellow gold, of which 35 were made. But when first launched in 2009, the Anniversary series was also meant to encompass four box sets of four watches each, made up of one watch in each colour of gold and another in platinum. The sets were never produced, however, individual watches originally destined to be part of the sets were. Owned by a noted collector who acquired it direct from the George Daniels trust, this Anniversary in white gold is one of them. And it is the only Anniversary ever made in white gold so far. On the wrist of the owner Though identical in design to the yellow gold Anniversary, the white gold watch looks more contemporary by virtue of its colour. ...
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