Hodinkee
Introducing: The Rolex Sky-Dweller In Two New Dial Colors
This big hunk of watch now comes in mint green and a very swoony blue green.
Results for Monta
1,599 articles · 116 videos found · page 43 of 58
Hodinkee
Quill & Pad
Watches & Wonders 2023 Round Table: What We Liked and Didn’t Like at the World’s Biggest Watch Fair
Watches and Wonders 2023 ran from Monday, March 27 to Saturday, April 1 at Palexpo in Geneva and was open to the public on the 1st and 2nd of April. It attracted a record 43,000 visitors! That’s nearly double last year’s 22,000 visitors, largely thanks to the opening up of China and Asian countries after the COVID-19 pandemic. The Quill & Pad team was there, and we sat down after the show to discuss what we liked and didn’t like about the 2023 fair.
W
Worn & Wound
Worn & Wound
The Breadth of Bulova: A Guide to American Icons
When iconic American watchmaking brands are brought up, it’s impossible not to mention Bulova. Born out of the mind of Joseph Bulova in 1875, the brand has been making quality timepieces for nearly one and a half centuries, with the brand’s 150th anniversary coming up soon. When a brand gets their start so early in the grand scheme of American history, you can trace the watches back to specific periods of innovation and design language. Today, we’re exploring the breadth of Bulova by highlighting some of their most iconic models that are still made today. Whether you want to learn about WWII watches from the 1940s, space-worn watches of the 1960s, brightly-colored dive watches of the 1970s, or technology from the dawn of quartz watches, Bulova has something to pique your interest. Let’s take a closer look at some modern interpretations of some of Bulova’s most recognizable timepieces. The post The Breadth of Bulova: A Guide to American Icons appeared first on Worn & Wound.
Worn & Wound
A Picture of Good Stealth: Luminox Unveils the Master Carbon SEAL Automatic
When it comes to military watches, my mind draws a bold red line between two distinct types. First, there’s the batch that originates from the vintage kin. You know, the Dirty Dozen field watch, the stoic flieger, and of course the quintessential stainless steel diver. Then there’s the modern and robust digital watch equipped with the innovative case material and a slew of multi-functions that you’d need more than two hands to count. But the happy medium between the two has always been within Luminox, a brand that has fostered and maintained a partnership with the U.S. Navy SEALs for three decades and counting. The latest addition to the Navy SEAL Luminox collection blends together a new case material and their patented Luminox Light Technology, while still keeping the spirit of analog time – it’s called the Master Carbon SEAL Automatic inspired by the Frogmen’s grind, grit, and durability. The Master Carbon SEAL Automatic utilizes a lightweight and rugged case made out of CARBONOX+. This forward-looking material boasts ultra-strong and weatherproof properties that in weight, equates to three times lighter than titanium. The unique feature that comes along with the “+” in the CARBONOX+ name is its stealthy gray tint which also displays the fingerprint-esque carbon fiber pattern that is individual to each watch. Except with the Master Carbon SEAL Automatic, the carbon fiber execution is much more subtle, displaying less of the white swirls we’ve seen in ot...
Worn & Wound
Hands On with the Big Bang Integrated Tourbillon Full Blue Sapphire, the Most Audacious Sapphire Watch Hublot Has Made
And now, readers, we’ve come to that portion of our Watches & Wonders coverage that I know at least two of you have been anxiously anticipating, Yes, it’s now an annual tradition I guess, where I will wax rhapsodically about a mind bending Hublot novelty fit for a modern version of an 18th century French king. I can’t really think of a better way to describe the Big Bang Integrated Tourbillon Full Blue Sapphire than to contextualize it with something commonly understood to be shorthand for over-the-top indulgence, but that’s what this watch is all about, in the best possible way. It’s a huge swing, which is exactly what I like to see from brands at Watches & Wonders. If I’m going to fly across an ocean and deal with travel delays at every step, I’d like to see things that I can only see in a presentation in the back of one of those enormous booths. Last year I wrote about the Big Bang Tourbillon Automatic Purple Sapphire and characterized it as one of the best watches of last year’s Watches & Wonders because it succeeded at being compelling from a watchmaking perspective while also being completely outlandish in a way that Hublot is uniquely great at. It marked a point in my own appreciation for the brand where they rose above the level of a mere curiosity and reached a point where, in my opinion, they are deserving of the respect given to any other serious innovator in contemporary watchmaking. This year they’re back with a sequel of sorts to last ye...
Time+Tide
Sherpa recreates the original EPSA Super Compressor case
Dive watches are more popular than ever, especially compressor divers. These ubiquitous watches herald from a time when horological engineering was at its peak, and when man’s explorative mind had no limits. Compressor divers were built to withstand submersion whilst remaining relatively thin and were therefore comfortable to wear. This was made possible by the … ContinuedThe post Sherpa recreates the original EPSA Super Compressor case appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
Cloisonné mastery of the Patek Philippe 5531G Grand Complications
The Patek Philippe 5531G Grand Complications pays tribute to their Geneva home The Grand Feu cloisonné section of the dial depicts a steamship from the Belle Époque fleet that has been cruising Lake Geneva for over a century The calibre R 27 HU is equipped with world time and minute repeater complications Technical mastery is … ContinuedThe post Cloisonné mastery of the Patek Philippe 5531G Grand Complications appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Cartier Introduces the Privé Tank Normale
Cartier has long mined its extensive archives for inspiration, particularly for the Privé collection of historically-inspired watches. Having revived the Tank Asymetrique and Cloche, the jeweller now turns to the first-ever Tank with the Privé Tank Normale. Like past Privé models, the new Normale faithfully adheres to the historical original, but unlike other Privé models, it is offered with the option of a matching, precious-metal bracelet. Initial thoughts Like last year’s Privé Tank Chinoise, the Tank Normale is less familiar than say, the Tank Cintree, having been discontinued for some time. Although the Tank Normale was the original Tank design of 1917, it has been out of the catalogue for long enough to have some novelty. The Tank Normale stays true to the original in almost all respects. The case, for instance, is marginally larger than vintage examples but compact enough it feels like a vintage watch. Even the bevelled sapphire crystal mimics the glass on the originals. But the watch incorporates modest tweaks that set it apart as a modern watch, like the expanded railway minute track. These design updates reveal a good attention to detail in updating the watch without changing too much. Especially noteworthy is the bracelet, an option rarely offered by Cartier for its high-end men’s watches. It’s executed well in both design and build, while also being acceptably priced as such things go (although pricey in absolute terms). The OG Tank The Tank Norma...
SJX Watches
De Bethune Introduces the DB Eight
While De Bethune is best known for its avant-garde designs and signature spring-loaded floating lugs, the brand’s early years were characterised by more traditional styling. Fresh off the press, the DB Eight calls to mind the brand’s early products, most notably the DB1 mono-pusher chronograph from 2002, but adds many of the technical refinements that De Bethune has become known for. Dressed in a polished titanium case and guilloché dial, the DB Eight fills a hole in the brand’s current line-up by offering collectors a simple, manually wound mono-pusher chronograph, albeit one that lacks the technical and decorative refinement collectors expect at this price point. Thanks to its wide but slim case and narrow bezel, the DB Eight will likely wear larger than its 42.4 mm diameter would suggest Initial thoughts I’m probably in the minority when it comes to my preference for De Bethune’s more classically styled models like the original DB1. Given this preference, I naturally I gravitated towards the new DB Eight more than I have to some of the brand’s other recent offerings like the DB28XP. But while I like the design of the DB Eight, the substance does not meet my expectations for the brand. Let’s start with the good news. De Bethune has addressed the cross-eyed look of the DB1 with a new movement that offers an instantaneous 60-minute counter for the elapsed time at six o’clock. This creates a balanced look that at first glance might even pass for a time-...
SJX Watches
Tudor Introduces the Black Bay GMT in Opaline Silver
One of the strongest value propositions at Watches & Wonders is from an unsurprising contender, Tudor. Not entirely new but still compelling, the Black Bay GMT is a new version of the brand’s travel staple, now facelifted with a silver dial that brings to mind the mythical Rolex GMT-Master “Pan Am”. Initial thoughts Since its release in 2018, the Black Bay GMT has been a crowd pleaser, and the newest variant will be as well. Its tangible features like the in-house calibre are obvious, and less apparent is the subtle historical connection. While a silver dial on a sport watch isn’t novel, this is particularly notable for the unspoken reference to the historical Rolex GMT-Master with a white dial reputedly made for Pan American Airways. The fact that the GMT-Master “Pan Am” is so famous yet controversial in terms of provenance gives this Black Bay GMT an amusing and interesting historical angle. Apart from the dial, there is no difference between this and the version with a black dial that came before. The price remains unchanged, and it still offers great value for money. The only criticism that I have is the same as for the earlier version: the case is chunky at 41 mm in diameter; the case is thick as well. I’m certain a more compact Tudor GMT model will arrive one day, especially with the just-launched Black Bay 54 that is 37 mm. Opaline dial The dial on the new Black Bay GMT retains the same dial layout with “snowflake” hands, including its lozen...
Time+Tide
The Oris ProPilot X Kermit Edition is a monthly celebration of Fozzie Bear’s best pal
The Oris ProPilot X Kermit Edition features a date window in which Miss Piggy’s ex makes a monthly appearance The watch itself is based on the 39mm titanium ProPilot X Calibre 400 Oris wanted to ensure the collaboration didn’t overpower the overall watch design Growing up, I learned a British superstition that you’re meant to … ContinuedThe post The Oris ProPilot X Kermit Edition is a monthly celebration of Fozzie Bear’s best pal appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
The Chopard Alpine Eagle 41 XPS is an ultra-thin, luxe take on a sporty proposition
The Chopard Alpine Eagle 41 XPS honours the Alps further with a Monte Rosa inspired dial. The calibre L.U.C 96.40-L is only 3.3mm thick, with the watch totalling 8mm. It’s also the second of Chopard’s movements to be granted a Geneva Seal, the first being the Alpine Eagle Flying Tourbillon. If you want to see … ContinuedThe post The Chopard Alpine Eagle 41 XPS is an ultra-thin, luxe take on a sporty proposition appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Hodinkee
Editors' Picks: What Will Tudor Release At Watches & Wonders 2023?
We're hoping for smaller cases, more colorful dials, and much more bronze. All will be revealed Monday morning. Until then – here are our predictions.
Hodinkee
Editors' Picks: What Will Rolex Release At Watches & Wonders 2023?
We'll find out Monday morning. In the meantime, here are our fervent hopes and wild predictions for what we think the Crown will do – plus a look at the cryptic teaser released by the brand itself.
Time+Tide
Tudor open Geneva pop-up store to sell latest releases from Watches and Wonders
As you’re probably aware, the world’s biggest watch fair, Watches and Wonders, starts on Monday. Hundreds of shiny, new timepieces will be revealed from some of the biggest brands around. But after the initial hullabaloo over these new releases dies down, if you actually want to buy one of the pieces, you can often face … ContinuedThe post Tudor open Geneva pop-up store to sell latest releases from Watches and Wonders appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Teddy Baldassarre
How The World's Most Accurate Watches Are Made
Nearly every advance in watchmaking technology has been in the service of increased utility and functionality - even inventions that we now consider entirely luxurious affectations. The minute repeater, for example, was invented so a watch wearer could audibly check the time in the dark in the days before luminous treatment on dials. Even the tourbillon began its existence as a device for enhancing timekeeping accuracy, countering the effects of gravity on a pocketwatch’s movement. Thus it should come as no surprise that as the world entered the electronic era in the mid-20th century, watchmakers would attempt to harness the new technologies to improve the precision - and hence the desirability - of their products. Read on as we trace the evolution of timekeeping technology all the way up through today’s most accurate watches. Birth of the Chronometer Not long after the tracking of time migrated from giant clocks in the town square to portable devices carried in waistcoat pockets, and eventually worn on wrists (click here for a brief history of watches), the need for a standard of dependable accuracy in these mechanical timekeepers became evident. Hence the establishment of standards for which a timepiece could be deemed a "chronometer." The classical definition of a chronometer goes all the way back to the golden age of seafaring exploration in the 18th Century, when ships required the use of a highly accurate onboard clock that enabled their navigators to det...
SJX Watches
Highlights: Complications at Sotheby’s Hong Kong Auction
Having covered highlights from independent watchmakers at Sotheby’s upcoming Important Watches I auction in Hong Kong, we now dive into the complicated timepieces in the sale that takes place on April 5. We look at eight notable lots. Some, like the platinum Patek Philippe ref. 5016 with its minute repeater, perpetual calendar, and tourbillon, are amongst the most valuable in the sale. But the catalogue also has value buys, notably including offerings from jewellers like Cartier, Van Cleef & Arpels, and Bulgari. Registration for bidding and the entire catalogue can be accessed here. The Patek Philippe ref. 5016P Lot 2137: Van Cleef & Arpels Lady Arpels Pont des Amoureux One of the most poetic timepieces by the Parisian jeweller, the Pont des Amoureux was a watch that helped make Van Cleef & Arpels as a watchmaker. This watch is the original and cleanest version of the model, which was discontinued in 2019 and replaced by a revised version. The watch is all about a uniquely whimsical depiction of the passing of time. A double retrograde display takes the form of two figures: a lady with an umbrella indicates the hours whilst a gentleman marks the minutes. The two figures move towards one another over the course of 12 hours, until they meet and “kiss” on top of the bridge that overlooks the Seine river – this happens twice in a day, at midday and midnight. The dial is executed in grisaille enamel, a meticulous process that dates back to the 16th century. The techn...
Worn & Wound
Longines Expands Spirit Collection With New Flyback Chronograph
The Longines Spirit collection welcomes a new member today with the release of a new Flyback Chronograph, bringing a (perhaps surprising) element of Longines heritage into the mix along the way. Longines may not be the first name that comes to mind when hearing the word ‘flyback’ but it probably should be, and this latest Spirit watch will serve as a reminder to the brand’s extensive history with the complication, which dates back to the 1920’s. Visually, the new Spirit Flyback Chronograph presents a cleaner execution than the existing chronograph, placing emphasis on the uniqueness of this complication, however the visual identity of the Spirit collection is clear and present here. Let’s take a quick step back, and get a better understanding of Longines’ place in history when it comes to the flyback complication. Longines had a lovely chronograph movement called the 13.33Z first introduced in 1913, which, later in life, likely served as a testbed for the flyback mechanism that would flourish in the more well-known 13Z. As far as we know, Longines placed the first flyback mechanism within the 13.33Z in 1929, and it wouldn’t be until June 12th of 1935 that the brand filed for Swiss patent on the mechanism, which would go on to be granted in March of 1936 (Brevet 183262). There’s much more to read on the topic, which has been covered beautifully by SJX and collector Dr. Christian Müller right here. Not that Longines needed an excuse to release their own fl...
SJX Watches
Daniel Roth Returns with the Tourbillon Souscription
After more than a year of rumours, LVMH finally confirmed the long expected with its February announcement of the relaunch of Daniel Roth. And now the brand officially debuts its inaugural watch, the Tourbillon Souscription. Modelled on the Daniel Roth tourbillon of 1988, the Tourbillon Souscription is almost a remake of the original from thirty-five years ago. It retains the same styling characterised by a double-ellipse case and one-minute tourbillon at six, but is entirely new in terms of mechanics: inside is a brand-new mechanical movement developed by La Fabrique du Temps Louis Vuitton (LFT). Initial thoughts I got in touch with Daniel Roth and his wife Nicolas after learning of the brand’s revival. They indicated their approval of the project. Their approval will probably have little impact on the new watches since they aren’t involved in the brand’s comeback, but it is certainly good to know. Being a homage to the brand’s origins, the Tourbillon Souscription is a good opening act in its revival. But for the resurrected brand to have longevity and relevance, it would have to do more than remakes; it will have to create new and original products that channel the spirit of the originals, a point I made in my earlier editorial. A Daniel Roth tourbillon from the 1990s The Tourbillon Souscription is clearly inspired by the original watches of the 1990s. It retains the same dimensions and almost all the details, right down to the hobnail guilloche dial. In fact, i...
SJX Watches
Business News: Tudor New Launches Available on First Day of W&W; in Geneva
In a first for an establishment watch brand, Tudor is making all of its new launches available on the first day of Watches & Wonders (W&W;), the trade fair that is the watch industry’s largest. The trade fair opens in the morning of Monday, March 27 and starting at noon the same day, the entire Tudor line-up of new models will be available at its pop-up store in downtown Geneva. Located off the city’s main shopping street of Rue du Rhône, the Tudor pop-up store is situated right beside the F.P. Journe boutique. It will be the first store in Switzerland to offer the Black Bay 58 Bronze (pictured above), a model available only in Tudor boutiques. While historical practice for the watch industry was to introduce new models in spring and have them available in stores in summer or later, availability has been slowly inching forward as watch brands realise the advantage of having watches for sale as soon as they are visible online. While W&W; remains a trade fair for industry insiders, namely retailers and journalists, to see new products, Tudor’s pop-up store essentially makes its “novelties” available to the public at the same time. It is not unimaginable that one day new models will be available on the spot at W&W; or its future equivalent. Pop-up details Operated by Swiss retailer Bucherer, the pop-up store opens on the first day of Watches & Wonders, Monday, March 27, 2023 at from 12 pm. It will be open from Monday to Saturday for a month. Place de Longemalle 15 120...
Worn & Wound
Paired Up Mondays with the Zodiac Olympos Military Worn & Wound Edition
We’re back with another pairing for Paired Up Monday’s. A while back, we partnered with the folks at Zodiac to create the Olympos Military Worn & Wound Edition. The creation took their 2:00 o’clock crowned Olympos and gave it a classic military dial with railroad minute track and bold numbers. Overall, the watch was a perfect amalgamation of both brands. We’re back with another pairing for Paired Up Monday’s. A while back, we partnered with the folks at Zodiac to create the Olympos Military Worn & Wound Edition. The creation took their 2:00 o’clock crowned Olympos and gave it a classic military dial with railroad minute track and bold numbers. Overall, the watch was a perfect amalgamation of both brands. The post Paired Up Mondays with the Zodiac Olympos Military Worn & Wound Edition appeared first on Worn & Wound.
Time+Tide
What’s happening to the value of your watch? New report delves into the secondary watch market
Whether it’s to justify your latest splurge or make a fast buck, the issue of resale value looms large in the mind of the contemporary watch buyer. Selling a watch in order to fund another purchase is nothing new. But as the secondary market for luxury watches has heated up in recent years, more and … ContinuedThe post What’s happening to the value of your watch? New report delves into the secondary watch market appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Worn & Wound
Ressence Adds a Sage Green Dial Option for the Entry Level Type 8
When I think back to last year’s Watches & Wonders, there are only a handful of watches and experiences that really stand out in my memory now that time has done its thing. The one-off Streamliner that H. Moser coated entirely in Vantablack comes to mind, as does that giant purple Hublot that has become a point of personal obsession.. As I reflect back though on my first Watches & Wonders, there’s another meeting that stands out, somewhat surprisingly, from all the others, and that’s our experience with Ressence. I’ve always admired Ressence and had limited hands-on experience with them in boutiques and at meetups prior to seeing them in Geneva, but it was another thing entirely to have a whole bunch of them laid out on a table with brand founder Benoit Mintiens personally taking us through the collection. These watches are truly special, quite rare, and try them all on in rapid fire succession was just a lot of fun. The big new release at the time, the Type 8 C, made a particularly strong impression as the new entry level Ressence. It was lightweight, beautiful, and approachable in a way that no other Ressence had felt like to me. Now, just in time for Watches & Wonders ‘23, Ressence has introduced another Type 8, this one in a gorgeous shade of green. The new Type 8 S (for “sage green”) has exactly the same specs as last year’s version in blue. That means it still has a lugless 43mm case made from grade 5 titanium, that’s just 11mm tall. It has a flyi...
Hodinkee
Buying, Selling, & Collecting: I Found An Incredible Arabic-Dial Seiko In An Unlikely Place
If you know where to look, you can find horological treasure anywhere. All you need is an open mind – and maybe a Prime account.
Hodinkee
Hands-On: The Miffy Moonphase. A Bauhaus-Inspired Bunny Watch
The cartoon watch that changed my mind about cartoon watches.
Worn & Wound
The Timex Marlin Automatic Sub-Dial Kicks it into Sport Mode
The Timex Marlin at its core, is a dress watch. I’m referring to the first Marlin that comes to mind when you think of this particular model. You know, the one with the 34mm case, hour numerals using a vintage typeface, and an accompanying faux-gator leather strap. Believe it or not, this style of watch was normally worn during any activity back in its day. From working at the office, right into doing household chores during the weekend. Think Don Draper wearing a similarly styled watch while cutting the lawn. Sure we could do the same, but nowadays there’s just way too many good steel sports watches out there for them to just sit on the sidelines while they watch their dressier watchbox mate get all the wrist time. Timex’s latest iteration of their flagship dress watch aims to fill that void in their current Marlin collection by becoming a bit more sportier via a new-look dial. One look at the Marlin Automatic Sub-Dial could have you mistaken for a refined version of your quintessential Timex field watch, but it is in fact a Marlin. The main reason here is the new set of numerals used to demarcate the hours. The collection of numerals are more sizable, much bolder, and a new typeface all together. The font leans into Sans Serif territory and as a result, the numerals look friendlier and playful, while also being more legible at the same time. The natural boldness of this new typeface accentuates the curves of each numeral, especially the unique looking flat top “4...
Hodinkee
Pre-Owned Picks: A Selection of Everyday Watches For Your Everyday Needs
Not every watch fits into the perfect sub-category, some are simply meant to be a daily driver.
Worn & Wound
Opinion: Watch Collecting in the Quantum Realm
Possibly against my better judgment, I saw Ant-Man and the Wasp: Quantumania recently. While it’s not my least favorite Marvel movie, it was pretty bad, somehow finding a way to rob Paul Rudd of nearly all of his natural charm, and filled with special effects that look not very special at all. I found my mind drifting, wondering if any of these actors actually met each other during filming, or if production had them fly in separately to film in front of massive green screens. And, as it too frequently does, my thoughts turned to watches. Wondering, as my colleagues did a few weeks ago, if Rudd chose that Grand Seiko for himself at the Ant-Man premiere, and if there was a quantum reality where he might have chosen a different watch for himself altogether, and if maybe in that reality he plays Captain America instead, and the MCU movies weren’t in a state of perpetual decline. The premise of Quantumania is actually interesting. Without getting too deep into the weeds, everything in the movie hinges on the quantum physics inspired idea that every decision point you encounter has infinite possibilities, and those possibilities play out in the “quantum realm.” That means new versions of you, and everyone you encounter, are constantly splitting off of your own perceived reality. This type of multiverse enabling storytelling is core to comic book mythologies, and seems to be playing out more frequently in this phase of Marvel films. In Quantumania, it means that in one ...
SJX Watches
Up Close: Louis Vuitton Tambour Slim Vivienne Jump Hours
Louis Vuitton (LV) marked the 20th anniversary of its first mechanical watch last year (with an El Primero-powered chronograph). The brand has rapidly evolved its horological offerings over the two decades, going from largely basic, monogrammed watches to ambitious complications like the gothic Carpe Diem Minute Repeater with automaton. A more whimsical example of LV’s progress in complications is the Tambour Slim Vivienne Jump Hours, a quirky interpretation of the jump hour complication that’s presented in a redesigned, svelte version of its signature drum-shaped case. Initial thoughts At the distance, the Vivienne Jump Hours looks like a run-of-the-mill character watch that’s slightly fancier than average. But upon closer inspection, it reveals a novel complication and an impressive degree of detail in the execution of the dial. The jump hour is mechanically conventional but presents as a double jumping indicator thanks to clever design. Its whimsical and unusual presentation typifies the spirit of LV. In fact, the complication is different enough that we hope it will make its way into more watches, especially timepieces for men. Given that the titular Vivienne character has a male counterpart named Gaston, it would make sense for the complication to make its way into a watch in a larger size. The Tambour Slim Vivienne Jumping Hours “Casino” with a green skarn dial And I really dig the dials of the Vivienne Jump Hours, especially the dial in skarn, a re...
Time+Tide
HANDS-ON: Withstand the heat with the new TAG Heuer Carrera x Porsche Orange Racing
The sun sets at the 24 hours of Le Mans. It’s your umpteenth time around the track. And, as you make your way down the Mulsanne Straight, the sparks from your Porsche 911 RSR light up the night sky. That’s the image Porsche and TAG Heuer had in mind with their newest release, the fiery … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: Withstand the heat with the new TAG Heuer Carrera x Porsche Orange Racing appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.