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Audemars Piguet Introduces the Royal Oak Tourbillon Openworked “Sand Gold” SJX Watches
Vacheron Constantin Audemars Piguet has firmly Mar 7, 2024

Audemars Piguet Introduces the Royal Oak Tourbillon Openworked “Sand Gold”

Audemars Piguet (AP) has introduced the Royal Oak Selfwinding Flying Tourbillon Openworked in a new proprietary 18ak gold alloy known as sand gold. Essentially a precious-metal variant of the steel version released in 2022, the new Tourbillon Openworked showcases the brand’s commitment to interesting materials – possible in part due to AP owning its own case maker. While the hype for integrated-bracelet sport watches has ebbed, AP has continued to deliver successive variants of its popular Royal Oak in exotic materials ranging from brown ceramic to frosted gold. Priced at CHF250,000, this latest variant pairs a warm-hued gold case and bracelet with one of the brand’s most modern movements. Initial thoughts Unlike its “Holy Trinity” peers Patek Philippe and Vacheron Constantin, Audemars Piguet has firmly embraced a contemporary, architectural aesthetic throughout its collections. The new Tourbillon Openworked is emblematic of this theme, eschewing traditional decorative finishes like Côtes de Geneve in favour of minimalist graining and sharp angles. Featuring the brand’s latest generation flying tourbillon movement plated to match the case, the sand gold tourbillon presents a striking monochrome appearance. While skeletonised watches can often look fussy and chaotic, the geometric bridges of the cal. 2972 were clearly designed with openworking in mind. As a result, the overall aesthetic is clean and organised. The 41 mm case is well-proportioned at just 10.6 mm...

Independent Watchmaker Sergey Chutov and His Fortress Collection Worn & Wound
Mar 6, 2024

Independent Watchmaker Sergey Chutov and His Fortress Collection

Not everyone has the courage to turn away from an established career, and take a risk on something that brings them joy. The watch industry is saturated with watches and watch brands focusing on every price point; from the powerhouses supported by the conglomerates they’re nestled under, to the independent and microbrands that have filled the market with innovation at a value cost, it can be hard for a new watchmaker to find their place. Sergey Chutov is an independent watchmaker that’s staking his claim, a fortress on a crowded battlefield, with pride, design, craft, and complex mechanics melting into the forge.  Until 2018, Sergey worked as a civil judge in Moscow. While going about his days he often found that his mind would drift to his passions. “One day I noticed that my thoughts were more occupied with watches than with legal work,” he told me. Eventually, Sergey made the decision to change the course of his life, and set down the path to gathering more knowledge about watches. “I spent 4 years learning how to make watches and honing my skills before making my first model,” he said.  That first model that Sergey is alluding to would be his Fortress I. There are currently five Fortress models that make up Sergey Chutov’s body of work. Each one with a similar DNA and evolving motif, with variations on movement, materials, and style. When I think of a “fortress” my mind goes to something cold and uninviting, but these watches, although arguably star...

Louis Vuitton Introduces Tourbillon with Plique-à-Jour Enamel Dial SJX Watches
Louis Vuitton Introduces Tourbillon Mar 6, 2024

Louis Vuitton Introduces Tourbillon with Plique-à-Jour Enamel Dial

Making full use of its recently established enamel workshop, Louis Vuitton debuts the Voyager Flying Tourbillon Poinçon de Genève Plique-à-Jour. Equipped with a skeleton tourbillon movement bearing the Geneva Seal, the new Voyager features a dial of translucent enamel in a gold lattice that is similar to stained glass. Initial thoughts The Voyager tourbillon was unveiled in its original format in 2016. I examined the watch at the time, and came away impressed by both the design and finishing, though I felt it was pricey. The case was elegantly proportioned and sat particularly well on the wrist, being just over 9 mm tall. And the movement was surprisingly airy while having a high level of decoration equivalent to that found in establishment haute horlogerie names. The plique-à-jour is essentially the same thing but with an enamel dial. The thickness of the dial adds to the case height, bringing it to over 11 mm, so the new tourbillon doesn’t have the slimness but it remains an elegant watch. The artisanal dial does add another level of appeal, particularly since this enamel technique is not often used in watches, particularly on the large surface of entire dial. Personally I would have preferred colours other than blue and grey for the enamel, but geometric, repeating “V” motif of the dial is attractive. As for the price, well, this is an expensive watch, though arguably not as much as in 2016.. Louis Vuitton has come a long way since as a watchmaker, with the br...

Omega’s White Dialed Speedmaster Professional is Here Worn & Wound
Omega s White Dialed Speedmaster Mar 5, 2024

Omega’s White Dialed Speedmaster Professional is Here

In a move that could only be earth shattering, breaking news in the watch industry, one of the most renowned brands has released their most iconic product in a color with no hue. Yes, the Speedmaster Professional, the Moonwatch, can now be had not only with the traditional black dial, but a white version that is perhaps meant to feel a bit more luxe, given its finishing and the (lack of) options consumers will have with respect to the question of crystal, bracelet, and caseback. This release isn’t exactly a surprise to those who follow Omega closely, but it is, all things considered, a fairly dramatic shakeup to the Speedmaster collection. The unveiling of the white dialed Speedmaster is not a big shock or surprise to those who track, predict, or are otherwise interested in new releases from Omega. Daniel Craig, James Bond himself, was spotted wearing what turned out to be a prototype version of the white Speedmaster last year. The jokes about a spy not being able to keep a new watch secret practically write themselves. In any case, it didn’t take long for the collecting community to reach the conclusion that the Omega ambassador was wearing new version of the Speedy to be released at some point in the near future. And a white dial for the Speedy Pro would be fairly predictable even if it hadn’t been spotted on Craig’s wrist. Some of Omega’s most sought after limited edition Speedys have been white, particularly the Silver Snoopy from 2015, and the Alaska Project...

Hands-On With The White-Dial Omega Speedmaster “Daniel Craig” Fratello
Omega Speedmaster “Daniel Craig” It Mar 5, 2024

Hands-On With The White-Dial Omega Speedmaster “Daniel Craig”

It was a long wait for many of you (and us), but here it is - the new Omega Speedmaster Professional Moonwatch. We had the opportunity to go hands-on with this new white-dial Speedmaster, which was first seen on Daniel Craig’s wrist last November. The white-dial Omega Speedmaster “Daniel Craig” At first, people thought it […] Visit Hands-On With The White-Dial Omega Speedmaster “Daniel Craig” to read the full article.

Christopher Ward Adds to their Dune Line with a C65 GMT Worn & Wound
Christopher Ward Adds Mar 4, 2024

Christopher Ward Adds to their Dune Line with a C65 GMT

Known for their luxury design at an approachable price point, British watchmaker Christopher Ward has brought their signature style to a new watch, the C65 Dune GMT White Sand. Inspired by field watch designs of the 1960’s, the C65 Dune GMT mixes vintage design elements with a totally modern upgrade. For one, unlike most GMT’s on the market, this model has an interior 24-hour bezel adorned with numerals, maintaining its streamlined profile that’s more complementary of the Dune silhouette. Further to this, the use of a fourth “GMT hand” allows for the wearer to always have their eye on a second timezone, a function that’s key for any explorer looking to up their wrist game. In terms of design, the C65 Dune GMT White Sand opts for a subtle charm that can easily be worn – and read – in a variety of circumstances. For one, the charm of the 38mm stainless steel case against the ivory-colored dial means this watch can be dressed up as needed. But like any good field watch, one should get their money’s worth in a variety of circumstances, and the C65 Dune GMT is no different.  The ultra-legible White Sand dial is accentuated by the applied twin-flags logo at 12 o’clock and a date window at 6. Both the hour markers and handset are deep-filled with Super-LumiNova® Light Old Radium BL Grade X1, giving readability at any day of day – or night. The C65 Dune GMT White Sand is powered by a self-winding Sellita SW330-2 GMT movement, with a power reserve of 56 hour...

A LOOK BACK: Omega Speedmaster Professional Hands On Review WatchAdvice
Omega Speedmaster Professional Hands Mar 4, 2024

A LOOK BACK: Omega Speedmaster Professional Hands On Review

With the launch of the latest white dial Speedmaster around the corner, we’ve dug into our archives to bring back our review of the Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch. Almost 5 years on, it still stands up well! Back in 2019, we reviewed the then-current Omega Speedmaster Professional Moonwatch. Since then, Omega has given the Speedy a bit of an upgrade with a new movement and a re-designed bracelet and clasp. However, not much else has changed, and with the imminent announcement of Omega’s new suspected White Dial or perhaps a white ceramic Speedmaster on Tuesday 5th March 2024, we thought we would dig into our archives and re-visit this review, and add a few comments within to be in line with the current model. Enjoy this blast from the past! A Bit Of History The Omega Speedmaster is one of Omega’s most iconic watches to date. It has a rich history with roots tied to space travel. Not many people may be aware but the speedmaster models that we have come to admire in this day and age weren’t originally thought of as a watch for space travel. When it was first released in 1957, it was portrayed as a sports and racing chronograph watch as Omega was the official timekeeper of the Olympic games.  The classic design cues of the Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch Things changed, however, when NASA decided that it wanted to use the Omega Speedmaster for its manned missions into space, while also being included in the Apollo program. So how exactly did Omega’s Speedmaster go from be...

W Worn & Wound
Worn & Wound
Frederique Constant Mar 3, 2024

A Week in Watches Ep. 75: Can Watches be Funny?

On episode 75 of A Week in Watches, we look at a handful of new releases. Things are a bit quiet right now with British Watchmaker’s Day and the Watches and Wonders looking around the corner. That said, we’ve got some cool stuff to look at, from a very dark Minase to some globe-trotting Farers to a departure for Fears and a funny Frederique Constant. This episode of a Week in Watches is presented by the all-new Tissot pr516 mechanical chronograph – based on a beloved 1970s design; this thoroughly modern reinterpretation is powered by a Valjoux hand-wound movement all for under $2,000 dollars – click here to find out more. The post A Week in Watches Ep. 75: Can Watches be Funny? appeared first on Worn & Wound.

Sunday Morning Showdown: Zenith Pilot Automatic Vs. IWC Pilot’s Watch Mark XX Fratello
Zenith Pilot Automatic Vs IWC Mar 3, 2024

Sunday Morning Showdown: Zenith Pilot Automatic Vs. IWC Pilot’s Watch Mark XX

Welcome to another Sunday Morning Showdown here on Fratello. Please get yourself ready because today’s confrontation promises to be a good one. In 2022, IWC introduced a new version of its Pilot’s Watch - the Mark XX. Then, last year, Zenith took it one step further with a complete revision of its Pilot line. That’s […] Visit Sunday Morning Showdown: Zenith Pilot Automatic Vs. IWC Pilot’s Watch Mark XX to read the full article.

Bulova Lunar Pilot Review Teddy Baldassarre
Accutron tuning-fork technology These instruments Mar 1, 2024

Bulova Lunar Pilot Review

In early 2024, Bulova released a version of its vintage-inspired space-mission-worthy chronograph, the Lunar Pilot, with a dial that is indisputably unique and whose origins are literally out of this world. Here’s a closer look at the Bulova Lunar Pilot Chronograph Meteorite Dial Limited Edition. To start with some background on the model: Bulova Watch Company, founded in New York in 1875, played a noteworthy role during the height of the U.S.A.’s Space Race with the Soviet Union in the 1950s and ‘60s. The company, at the time headed by American war hero General Omar Bradley, established a partnership with NASA through which it provided precision instruments and timekeeping devices equipped with Bulova’s signature Accutron tuning-fork technology. These instruments were used by NASA astronauts on no less than 46 space missions, and a Bulova Accutron clock remains in the moon's Sea of Tranquility to this day, placed there by astronaut Buzz Aldrin in 1969 during the historic Apollo 11 moon landing. Two years later, Bulova made a customized, one-of-a-kind chronograph wristwatch for Colonel Dave Scott (above), commander of 1971’s Apollo 15 mission, the fourth to land on the moon. The watch, essentially the prototype for today's Lunar Pilot models, was specially engineered for lunar conditions, with a case built to withstand drastic changes in pressure, temperature, atmospheric conditions, and gravity. Scott, the seventh man to walk on the moon and the first to driv...

Hands-On: Cartier Tank Must With The Photovoltaic SolarBeat Movement Fratello
Cartier Tank Must Mar 1, 2024

Hands-On: Cartier Tank Must With The Photovoltaic SolarBeat Movement

Cartier introduced three sizes of new Tank Must models in 2021. The Tank Must debuted in the 1970s, but we hadn’t seen any new models for years. Now it’s available again in “extra-large,” “large,” and “small” versions. The extra-large model features a self-winding 1847 MC caliber with central seconds and date, while the large and […] Visit Hands-On: Cartier Tank Must With The Photovoltaic SolarBeat Movement to read the full article.

First Look - The Handsome Blancpain Villeret Perpetual Calendar Goes Green Monochrome
Blancpain Villeret Perpetual Calendar Goes Feb 29, 2024

First Look - The Handsome Blancpain Villeret Perpetual Calendar Goes Green

Today, 29 February 2024, is a pretty special day for calendar watches… and specifically perpetual calendar timepieces. To mark the leap year, Blancpain is releasing a new version of its Villeret Quantième Perpétuel – or Villeret Perpetual Calendar – an elegant and functional available already in steel, red gold or a limited edition in platinum. […]

Back To Basics: 10 Mistakes To Avoid As A Beginner Watch Collector Fratello
Feb 26, 2024

Back To Basics: 10 Mistakes To Avoid As A Beginner Watch Collector

In this installment of Back To Basics, I’ll go into typical mistakes that beginner watch collectors often make. These are the common pitfalls that newcomers might find themselves running into. After reading this, you, as a new watch enthusiast, will hopefully be able to steer clear of them! And that might just save you some […] Visit Back To Basics: 10 Mistakes To Avoid As A Beginner Watch Collector to read the full article.

Zenith Chronomaster Sport Guide Teddy Baldassarre
Zenith Chronomaster Sport Guide When Feb 23, 2024

Zenith Chronomaster Sport Guide

When the Zenith Chronomaster Sport won the Chronograph Prize at the 2021 Grand Prix d’Horlogerie Genève, the watch world’s most prestigious awards, it was emphatically something new and different: the first chronograph watch able to measure 1/10-second chronograph readings on its bezel scale. However, despite the fact that the Chronomaster Sport collection can still be considered “new” in a practical sense, its origins, both aesthetic and technical, can be traced back much further, all the way to some of the earliest horological milestones of Zenith, one of the Swiss watch world’s most honored and accomplished watchmakers and the inventor of the groundbreaking movement that animates all the Chronomaster models, including the Sport. I spoke with Zenith’s Head of Heritage, Laurence Bodenmann, to help trace the evolution of the Chronomaster Sport and its strong ties to several noteworthy models of the past.    Zenith traces its impactful watchmaking history all the way back to 1865, and an ambitious 22-year-old watchmaker named George Favre-Jacot. A contemporary of the influential Swiss artist and designer Le Corbusier, a pioneer of avant-garde architecture, Favre-Jacot adopted a similarly modernist approach to watchmaking when he founded his atelier in Le Locle in the Swiss Jura. Taking cues from American watch firms like Waltham and Elgin, which had found success by introducing mass production into the traditionally artisanal trade, Georges Favre-Jacot & Co.,...

Fears Reintroduces the Redcliff Collection, Including a Limited Production Onyx Dial Made with Collective Horology Worn & Wound
Fears Reintroduces Feb 23, 2024

Fears Reintroduces the Redcliff Collection, Including a Limited Production Onyx Dial Made with Collective Horology

Fears has reintroduced the Redcliff collection today, which made its first appearance in the catalog when the brand was re-established in 2016 by Nicholas Bowman-Scargill, the great-great-great grandson of Edwin Fears, the company’s founder. The Redcliff 39.5 Date seen here is an interesting new step for Fears. The brand has seen tremendous growth over these past few years, and they’ve done it almost entirely on the back of the cushion cased watches that make up the Brunswick collection. A straightforward, circular case with a mechanical movement has been notably absent from the collection, and it stands to reason that a more traditional, and perhaps approachable, case platform like the Redcliff could broaden the brand’s appeal considerably. Of course, there are still plenty of small touches that make this iteration of the Redcliff identifiable as a Fears, and there’s a limited edition variant made in collaboration with Collective Horology that seems to be in direct conversation with one of last year’s key Fears releases.  We’ll start with the case, as at least at first glance, that would seem to be the most significant departure from what most would consider the established Fears design language. In stainless steel, it measures 39.5mm in diameter and has been designed to be slim at just 9.95mm tall. It has a mix of finishes, including a prominently brushed midcase and a polished, sloping bezel. The crown is oversized and screws down, which helps to give the R...

H. Moser & Cie. Introduces the Minimalist Perpetual Calendar in “Smoked Salmon” SJX Watches
H. Moser & Cie Introduces Feb 21, 2024

H. Moser & Cie. Introduces the Minimalist Perpetual Calendar in “Smoked Salmon”

First seen in 2021, the H. Moser & Cie. perpetual calendar sports watch combines its signature complication and the bestselling integrated-bracelet design. Slated to be produced only during 2024, the Streamliner Perpetual Calendar Smoked Salmon is a reference to Moser’s trademark gradient, or “smoked”, dials. The new perpetual calendar takes stylistic minimalism even further than its predecessor. The Smoked Salmon version does away entirely with any markings on the dial, leaving the gradient dial almost entirely unadorned. Initial thoughts The new perpetual is typical Moser in both style and function. The colour and name are subtly amusing, reflecting the brand’s frequent use of low-key humour in its products. The “Tutorial” perpetual calendar was more literal but equally tongue-in-cheek. More broadly, “Smoked Salmon” is a clever as it adds another twist to the gradient dials that are now synonymous with Moser, which helps keep the concept fresh, despite it having been iterated numerous times. Salmon aside, the latest Streamliner is a striking watch. Even though Moser has no shortage of minimalist watches, this one stands out for being so stark yet having a full featured perpetual calendar – and even a power reserve. Mechanically, the watch is identical to its predecessors, which is a good thing. The second-generation perpetual calendar inside is smartly constructed but also free of the bugs found in earlier iterations of the movement. The Perpetual Calen...

Introducing: The Tissot PRX Powermatic 80 Damian Lillard Special Edition - The First Official PRX Collab Fratello
Tissot PRX Powermatic 80 Damian Feb 21, 2024

Introducing: The Tissot PRX Powermatic 80 Damian Lillard Special Edition - The First Official PRX Collab

This question has an affirmative answer, and this baller PRX even makes me forget my preference for the 35mm models. Yes, it might be that good, with just the right glitz in an already accomplished package. Is the Tissot PRX Powermatic 80 Damian Lillard Special Edition the start of the brand showing us a new […] Visit Introducing: The Tissot PRX Powermatic 80 Damian Lillard Special Edition - The First Official PRX Collab to read the full article.

Interview - “India Will Surely Be Among The Fastest-Growing Markets,” Says Yasho Saboo, Chairman of Ethos Watches Monochrome
Rolex but also many more Feb 21, 2024

Interview - “India Will Surely Be Among The Fastest-Growing Markets,” Says Yasho Saboo, Chairman of Ethos Watches

The watch industry and its market are in constant evolution, with new brands appearing almost daily. The distribution has to face intense volatility due to the duplication of selling channels, the increased pressure of business combinations and the recent rise of certified pre-owned (CPO), which concerns Rolex but also many more brands. A handful of […]

Vero Debuts a Collection of Officially Licensed USDA Forest Service Watches on the Workhorse Platform Worn & Wound
Feb 19, 2024

Vero Debuts a Collection of Officially Licensed USDA Forest Service Watches on the Workhorse Platform

Hot on the heels of a pair of well received watches paying tribute to Smokey Bear, Vero is back with a new collection made in partnership with the USDA Forest Service. Vero has really dug into a niche with these recent releases, bolstering their image as an authentically outdoors focused brand. I really like it when brands fully embrace something that’s obviously important to them, and Vero’s release strategy is a great example of the best example of this idea. The coolest thing about these watches, though, is that they aren’t merely exercises in licensing – they have a distinct design language in conversation with Vero’s other watches.  The Forest Service collection is made up of four watches, with each colorway inspired by Forest Service teams charged with protecting US forests and grasslands. The Airtanker has a red/orange dial that matches the color of the fire retardants used in fighting forest fires, the Ranger has a black dial with green and khaki accents meant to evoke the iconic Forest Service uniforms, the Hotshot features bright yellow accents that match the uniforms of the teams who go by the same name and have a particular expertise in forest fire behavior, and the Service Green watch has a bright green tone that matches Forest Service utility vehicles. Looking at the collection as a whole, it’s clear that Vero is having fun with color here, something we always appreciate in a space still dominated by conservative choices and monotone design decis...

Hands-on - The Ollech & Wajs OW 8001 is an Ultra-Robust Take on the 1970s Integrated Sports Watch Monochrome
Feb 19, 2024

Hands-on - The Ollech & Wajs OW 8001 is an Ultra-Robust Take on the 1970s Integrated Sports Watch

Amidst the rapid expansion of the steel sports watch with an integrated bracelet category, selecting the right (meaning available and accessible) timepiece has become increasingly complex. However, this watch by O&W; (the contemporary side of Ollech & Wajs) stands out distinctly amidst the influx of new models. Rooted in the legitimate design ethos of the […]