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Time+Tide
A full tungsten carbide case and bracelet make this a surprising watch to hold, and a secret dial makes it a joy to wear. The post Heavy, black and secretive, the new F.P. Journe Chronomètre Furtif is surprising in all the right ways (live pics) appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Take a moment to think about the characteristics that would make the perfect everyday watch; what would you come up with? The list would probably include things like maximum precision, minimum weight, an agreeable size with good ergonomics, and a design that is at home in both formal and casual environments. It also wouldn’t cost a fortune. That might as well have been the design brief for the new Grand Seiko Evolution 9 Spring Drive Ultra Fine Accuracy (UFA) SLGB001 and SLGB003, which ticks about as many boxes as any single watch can. In fact, just about the worst thing you can say about the UFA is that the design isn’t taking any risks, but that’s the cost of chameleon-like versatility. While the watch is also available in an 80-piece limited edition in platinum (the SLGB001, pictured above), the primary focus of this review will be the more crowd-pleasing titanium version with matching bracelet (the SLGB003), which is a regular production model and priced right. The SLGB003 Initial thoughts Putting it bluntly, the UFA is an absolute spec-sheet monster. If you’re onboard with the idea of a quartz oscillator in an otherwise mechanical watch, there’s very little to nitpick. It’s simply one of the most accurate, wearable, and well-made watches on the market. In true Grand Seiko style, the UFA is fitted with a nature-inspired dial motif that is modeled on a hillside of frost-covered trees. It’s a fairly abstract representation, which means it will look like d...
Fratello
Fortis is a brand that is constantly on the move. In the last six months, we have seen new versions of the Novonaut N-42, a new model range with the Vagabond V-40 GMT, and even new movements. For its latest releases, Fortis introduces two new Flieger models with black cases in two sizes. But the […] Visit Fortis Introduces Four Flieger Models Powered By The New Manufacture Werk 7 to read the full article.
SJX Watches
With Watches & Wonders 2025 having just concluded, we discuss the best watches seen at the fair, as well as developments and happenings at the year’s biggest watch fair. We cover the establishment brands – Rolex and Vacheron Constantin were standouts – and the independents. (For a written take on the fair, read my editorial.) Listen on Apple Podcasts, Spotify, and YouTube.
Fratello
One of the understated hits this year at Watches and Wonders was the 34mm A. Lange & Söhne 1815. If this is the peak of the trend for slight watches, then we “small-wristers” have been well rewarded. Today, we’ll take a closer look at the two variants of this charming dress watch. The longstanding 38.5mm […] Visit Hands-On With The 34mm A. Lange & Söhne 1815 to read the full article.
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Time+Tide
The calm after the storm: that’s how I would describe the state of the week... Although there were plenty of big watch releases!The post New releases from Jaeger-LeCoultre, Audemars Piguet, Louis Moinet and more appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Monochrome
One of the first purpose-built modern dive watches produced in the mid-1950s, Blancpain’s Fifty Fathoms was a key player in the development of “skin diving” and the watch selected by several elite diving corps. Taken out of production in the 1980s, Swatch Group’s Marc A. Hayek resuscitated the Fifty Fathoms in 2003. In 2007, the […]
Monochrome
60 different references… This is how wide Tissot’s best-selling collection, the sporty-elegant integrated PRX watch, has become in about 4 years. Ranging from compact and affordable quartz models to more expensive watches with gold fluted bezels and chronograph movement, and basically everything you can imagine in between (even a forged carbon edition), you’d think the […]
Fratello
Last week was the second time I attended Watches and Wonders Geneva, and it was almost just as impressive as the first. Palexpo is still an immense venue, and the booths make it look like you’re in a shopping center full of huge luxury watch boutiques. It also still amazes me how many people are […] Visit Fratello Favorites: The Best Watches And Wonders 2025 Releases - Daan’s Picks From Cartier, Rolex, Nomos, And More to read the full article.
SJX Watches
A tribute to the first chronograph pocket watch, the Louis Moinet 1816 combines contemporary case design with an all-new, classically constructed chronograph movement featuring a column wheel, horizontal clutch, and swan’s neck regulator. With the 1816, Louis Moinet has concocted an unusual but appealing proposition that blends the new with the old. Initial thoughts Louis Moinet is regarded as the inventor of the chronograph thanks to the compteur de tierce (which translates as “thirds counter”) that he revealed in 1816. His creation was considered more of a scientific instrument than a chronograph as we know it today. It was Nicolas Rieussiec who actually coined the term “chronograph” a few years later in 1821. Now the revived brand bearing Moinet’s name has taken inspiration from his 1816 invention to create a reinterpretation of the compteur de tierce. The original “thirds counter”. Image – Louis Moinet With a monochromatic, all-titanium construction and integrated bracelet, the 1816 looks to be a sports watch, yet it only has a 30 m water resistance. The traditionally styled movement stands in contrast with the contemporary and somewhat trendy exterior. Such a tribute to a historic piece would arguably have worked better with appropriately classical design. As it is, the 1816 is neither a dress nor a sports watch. The design feels confused, but the appeal of the movement alone is clear since it ticks most of the boxes that collectors appreciate in an ...
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Worn & Wound
This year was all about the Reverso for Jaeger-LeCoultre. At Watches & Wonders this year, the watchmaker’s watchmaker unveiled a total of nine new Reverso novelties, capturing every expression of the iconic watch. From simple to complicated, highly technical to craft oriented, and in just about every material you’d want to see, it was a stunning output, and truly impressive to see them all up close and personal. We decided to set ourselves up with the impossible task of picking our favorites from the new crop of Reverso novelties introduced last week. Not an easy decision at all, but somehow, across these picks, the team has captured the breadth of the Reverso, or at least started to. Be sure to let us know your favorite among the new Reversos in the comments below, especially if it was one we didn’t happen to select. Zach Weiss Like many watch enthusiasts, the Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso is on my eventual hit list. An iconic dress watch, its signature reversible case design gives it not just a unique look but also function and character. And to that end, I’ve always felt that, if I were to pick one up, I’d have to go for one of the Duoface models, essentially turning one watch into two. Last year, I got the opportunity to spend some time with the newest version of the Reverso Tribute Duoface in rose gold, which left an impression on me. Though it wasn’t the most compact Reverso, the two sides, one with the iconic art deco “tribute” design and a small ...
Worn & Wound
You have to give it up for Piaget. When they introduced the Altiplano Concept Tourbillon last year, they made a hell of a play for the world’s thinnest tourbillon watch. At 2.0mm, that watch was (as most ultra-thin watches are) inconceivably thin. I have to imagine that, when Piaget introduced that watch last year, they felt pretty good about holding onto the record for at least a while but, as these things go, eventually, Bulgari has to have its say in the matter. A year later, we have Bulgari’s seemingly inevitable response: The Octo Finissimo Ultra Tourbillon. At just 1.85mm thick, Bulgari’s latest Ultra-Thin masterpiece represents their 10th world record for thinness in watchmaking and reunites Bulgari with a record it has held on and off since 2014 - which, by way of comparison, was a record they had previously held with watches measuring 5mm and 3.95mm thick. Hard to imagine it, but each of those now seems downright chunky by comparison. There’s a good reason why you often see watches like this held up next to credit cards: Devoid of context, it’s almost impossible for your brain to compute just how little three-dimensional space these watches take up. Bulgari has achieved this stupendously mind-blowing level of thinness by applying the design and construction techniques introduced with the 1.80mm thin Octo Finissimo Ultra and the 1.70mm thin Octo Finissimo Ultra COSC. Most notably, Bulgari has integrated the case and movement of the Octo Finissimo Ultra ...
Teddy Baldassarre
Blancpain’s Fifty Fathoms, first introduced in 1953, is indisputably one of the most influential and iconic timepieces of the 20th century, basically laying out the blueprint for what we now recognize today as the modern divers’ watch. Also indisputable is the fact that the Fifty Fathoms is a watch that is anything but understated in its proportions - the Automatique at the core of the modern collection, relaunched in 2008, sports a massive 45mm case, and even the vintage-inspired and allegedly more modestly sized Bathyscaphe models, which joined the collection in 2013, hover around 43mm in their male-targeted iterations. In 2024, Blancpain responded to a market-wide trend toward smaller case sizes - albeit without compromising the bold character of its flagship sport-luxury model - by releasing a new version of the Fifty Fathoms Automatique in a middle-of-the-road 42mm version. Curiously, the first two models in this size were in rose gold and titanium; the inclusion of a steel model seemed to be a no-brainer that was conspicuous by its absence in that first wave of 42mm models. Today, however, Blancpain has finally delivered the Fifty Fathoms Automatique 42mm in stainless steel - adding it to the regular collection as well as giving the model a distinctive flair. The stainless steel case of the new Blancpain Fifty Fathoms Automatique, which measures precisely 42.3mm in diameter and 14.3mm thick, sports a gleaming, predominantly polished finish, distinguishing...
SJX Watches
The third iteration of De Bethune’s swivelling, double-faced watch is the Kind of Two GMT “Season 3” conceived in collaboration with American rapper and watch enthusiast Swizz Beatz. Powered by the hand-wound DB2517 movement, the watch indicates one time zone on the front and another on the reverse, with both sides able to be worn face up thanks to patented, pivoting “floating” lugs. Initial thoughts The Kind of Two series employs a useful reversible case, cleverly using the “floating” lug construction of the DB28 to create a double-faced watch. Here one dial is traditional with blued steel hands, and the other an open-worked face revealing the movement that also has a regulator-style display for the second time zone. The clever approach with a unique movement is typical De Bethune, although this loses some novelty as the third double-faced watch in the De Bethune line-up. The Kind of Two GMT is definitely one of the most elaborate two time zone watches on the market, but at over US$200,000, it is pricey for a GMT, even by the standards of independent watchmaking (Voutilainen’s GMT, for instance, costs less). Two-faced The “Season 3” edition adopts a restrained palette of black and gold with blue accents. The 43.3 mm by 11.4 mm case is titanium and zirconium, with blued steel hands and a blue-and-black guilloche dial centre on the front showing local time. Notably, this dial includes a jumping seconds that is driven by a secondary escapement visible on ...
Fratello
Just when the watch world is beginning to settle into the quiet post-Watches and Wonders pace, Blancpain shakes things up by introducing a version of its 42mm Fifty Fathoms in steel. Recently, I had the pleasure of spending some time with the 42mm Blancpain Fifty Fathoms in titanium. Now the brand has introduced a new […] Visit Introducing: A 42mm Blancpain Fifty Fathoms Automatique In Steel to read the full article.
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Fratello
A Mimo watch has been on my wishlist for almost a decade. Although I am on a hunt for different Mimo models, I simply couldn’t resist this tuxedo tank. With an original strap, buckle, and even the brand tag, it looks like it just left the Mimo factory. Mimo is one of the brands we […] Visit Retrospective: An Unexpected NOS Mimo Tuxedo Tank Find to read the full article.
Monochrome
Raymond Weil’s Millesime collection, launched in 2024, is a charming retro-inspired family that has caught many a watch aficionado’s eye. Injecting a new lease of life into a brand that was often overlooked, the Millesime family is out to conquer the market of neo-vintage dress watches with modern specifications. Coupled with competitive prices, the Millesime […]
Monochrome
If you ask yourself what’s the most classic dress watch ever made by Patek, and probably one of the most important models of the category, the answer should ultimately be the Calatrava. Not much to debate here. The collection, created in 1932 with the reference 96, has had such an influence on the watch industry […]
Quill & Pad
GaryG has the pleasure of covering the wonderful Grönefeld One Hertz. For a watch fanatic, and especially for lovers of independent watch brands, it’s a dream come true to meet the makers of the watches that we admire.
Worn & Wound
It’s not an exaggeration to say that my meeting with Bremont at this year’s Watches & Wonders was among my most anticipated. For better or worse (probably worse, if you survey watch industry vets, media types, and longtime enthusiasts) Bremont’s output dominated much of the conversation during and after last year’s event. It was the brand’s first Watches & Wonders, and the public unveiling of an entirely new look for the brand. As I’m sure many readers will remember, it did not go over particularly well. But 2025 is a new year, and a new opportunity for Bremont to crystallize in the mind of observers what this new era will be about. Because, to be sure, it will not be like “old” Bremont. That ship has sailed, and while some of the watches introduced this year are in direct conversation with Bremont classics, they are still distinctly their own thing. That’s not a judgement, but it’s the reason why some Bremont loyalists will continue to dismiss the new novelties, even if from a bird’s eye view they appear that they might be a return to form. By the same token, someone like me, who was never really a hardcore Bremont enthusiast to begin with, might see silver linings and positive steps forward for the brand. This is perhaps a longwinded way of saying that Bremont’s output at Watches & Wonders this year was a mixed bag, but a big improvement over last year. More importantly, regardless of whether you like the watches they debuted at the show, the vi...
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Fratello
Welcome back to a special episode of Fratello On Air! This week, we bring you a compilation of recordings from Watches and Wonders 2025. We patched together several segments and even had a guest! Enjoy this inside look at the world’s largest watch event. This podcast player is blocked because you did not accept marketing […] Visit Fratello On Air: On The Ground At Watches And Wonders 2025 to read the full article.
Fratello
Last year, Anoma founder Matteo Violet-Vianello launched his first watch, the A1. The triangular timepiece earned quite some hype on social media, and he sold many A1s to the lucky people who pre-ordered one. A few weeks ago, Matteo presented the Anoma A1 Slate, a refined version of the same watch with a brushed, engraved, […] Visit Hands-On: The Anoma A1 Slate With A Refined Dial to read the full article.
Monochrome
The latest watch in the very appealing Hermès Cut collection is more than just a jump from 36mm to 39mm, as it adds the ability to “suspend time” (Le Temps Suspendu) with a complication first seen in the 2011 Arceau collection. At the press of a button, the hour and minute hands move into a […]
Worn & Wound
If you’ve ever attended Watches & Wonders (or any watch event, Windup Watch Fairs included) you’re probably familiar with the period of reflection that happens right after. It usually involves opening up the Photos app on your phone and scrolling through all the wrist shots you took. As you do this, thoughts about what you’ve just experienced fall into place, and the power of memory that watches are so adept at exploiting has its first and earliest chance to take hold. This year, waiting for my flight back to Boston to board, cycling through the many, many photos on my memory card and camera roll, I began to wonder if Parmigiani Fleurier had possibly “won” Watches & Wonders for me this year. By “winning” Watches & Wonders I don’t necessarily mean that they had the best watch (although they have one that’s in the running, for sure) but rather, as a brand, that they left the deepest impression on me. This was a somewhat surprising revelation, as, if I’m being honest, Parmigiani has frequently felt like the brand that I just didn’t quite get. Many of my peers in the watch media space gush about Parmigiani the way I advocate for Prometheus, a movie I firmly believe is an all-time classic but many insist is a major Ridley Scott misstep. I’ve always felt like I’m on the outside with Parmigiani. I kind of prefer the old design of the Tonda. The GMT Rattrapante is more clever than practical. And the sporty chronographs, to my eyes and on my wrist, lack ...
Fratello
The Cartier Santos medium represents, to me, some of the best the brand has to offer. Recently, I spent some quality time with the Santos. Here are my thoughts. Cartier is a watch brand that represents many things to many people. Like Rolex, it has developed a little baggage simply because it has been so […] Visit Is The Cartier Santos Medium An Unexpected Rolex Oyster Perpetual Killer? to read the full article.
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