Hodinkee
Introducing: The Citizen Promaster Aqualand 40th Anniversary Limited Edition
A classic post-quartz Japanese two-tone tool diver turns the big 4-0.
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SJX Watches
Urban Jürgensen Introduces the UJ-3 Perpetual Calendar
Urban Jürgensen closes its newly launched model lineup with a surprising creation, the UJ-3 . An integrated perpetual calendar that elegantly builds on the base of time-only UJ-2, the UJ-3 is equipped with a calendar module developed in collaboration with independent watchmaker Andreas Strehler. The UJ-3 is the third and final watch in Urban Jürgensen’s relaunch lineup, which was among this year’s most unexpected (but welcome) surprises. Initial thoughts The introduction of a perpetual calendar along with the two other models is an impressive move by the team at Urban Jürgensen. Brands typically debut with a single model; Urban Jürgensen has managed three all-new watches. The fact that in addition to a tourbillon (and a special one at that) of the UJ-1, Urban Jürgensen managed to develop a complex perpetual calendar is nothing short of remarkable. Moreover, the perpetual calendar of the UJ-3 integrated with the movement, and not merely added as a module. Urban Jürgensen is being transparent in revealing the UJ-3 is a collaboration between Voutilainen and watchmaker-engineer Andreas Strehler. This openness is important, especially for independent watchmakers. The acknowledgement also adds pedigree to the piece given Mr Strehler’s good reputation. Personally, I find the UJ-3 more cohesive in design compared to the UJ-2. The calendar indications better fill the dial space, and the hands are no longer too small for the face. Also, the dial appearance evokes the p...
Hodinkee
Introducing: Urban Jürgensen Has Returned - Under The Direction Of Kari Voutilainen And Alex Rosenfield - With Three Extraordinary New Models
The historically minded collection looks further back in the brand's heritage for design inspiration, featuring a new yet familiar aesthetic combined with world-class watchmaking.
SJX Watches
Urban Jürgensen Debuts the UJ-2 Time-Only
Urban Jürgensen’s entry-level model is now the time-only UJ-2. The brand’s new design language includes nods to the past without being repetitive. Compared to the limited-edition UJ-1 tourbillon, the UJ-2 is a simpler and (relatively) more accessible watch, with a calibre inside that can serve as a base for complications in the future. Initial thoughts The UJ-2 shows no obvious direct influence from past watches and marks the beginning of Urban Jürgensen’s new approach. The styling is reminiscent of Breguet’s work, but the fine details are traceable to Jürgensen’s own creations. Inside, a new movement bears Voutilainen’s unmistakable touch. The gilded, grained caliber appears plain at first glance, but it is of high quality and strikingly original in many respects. Among the four versions of the UJ-2, one in particular catches the eye. The rose-gold model in particular, with its bright silvered dial recalls George Daniels’s Millennium series, thanks to the off-center dial and gold dial rings. The small seconds sub dial is rather large, with its diameter almost spanning the watch face diameter. Along with its lopsided placement, it makes for an interesting sight. The dial as a whole looks classical, but with a slight minimalist touch - same as in the UJ-1. The movement inside looks to be the base for models to come. In a growing trend of using new materials, longer power reserves and high frequencies, the UJ-1 caliber remains quintessentially traditional,...
Worn & Wound
Introducing the Héron Mirabel GMT, an Affordable, Vintage Inspired Dressy Travel Watch
It’s hard not to feel overwhelmed by the amount of quirky young watch brands pushing to make their name in the horological world-it seems like we are in the current golden age of microbrands and upstarts. Canadian watchmakers Héron, founded in Montreal in 2021, are among that crowd, and looking to make a name for themselves with vintage-inspired styling that is aimed at collectors with old-school taste. With their latest, the Mirabel GMT, the Québécois brand is channeling both aviation functionality and upscale dressy styling to produce a dual-duty timepiece ala upmarket stalwarts like Longines and Patek Philippe. The Mirabel GMT sits within a stainless steel “C-shaped” case, and measures in at a sporty 37.5mm in diameter and 43.5mm lug-to-lug. True to Héron’s vintage-look aspirations, the enamel painted sector dial has an art deco flair, and features applied Roman numerals, pilot-style “alpha” hands, and a boxed sapphire crystal with underside anti-reflective coating. Four references are available for the Mirabel GMT, with varying dial shades, Delugs Baranil leather strap options, and case finishes. The “black” option features a black dial with gold details and case, and sits on a black strap, while the “brown” option also features gold accents, but wears a luxurious brown dial. Likewise, the “white” edition features a crisp white dial with blue hands and a dark blue strap, and the “blue” model has a blue dial and the same dark blue s...
Hodinkee
Introducing: Accutron Revives The First Fully Electric Wristwatch With The New Spaceview 314
The brand has put modern higher-end finishing into reviving an iconic model.
Worn & Wound
Citizen Celebrates 40 Years of the Aqualand, One of the Most Unique Dive Watches Ever Made
There are lots of dive watches out there – it’s perhaps the most ubiquitous of all the watch genres. Frankly, it’s easy to see why. In addition to being highly specialized for a very specific task, they tend to work incredibly well as casual, everyday watches regardless of what you happen to be doing with them. The reason for this is very much because of the design traits these watches share that make them so highly specialized: ultra clear legibility, robust water proof cases, and a generally nondescript design that allows the watch to be worn easily with a wetsuit and also blend into the fabric of our everyday lives. But then there are a handful of truly unusual dive watches that give away their specialized nature even at a passing glance. They look less like watches and more like obscure devices or instruments that should only be used by people who really know what they’re doing, have received the necessary training, and perhaps have signed a liability waiver. The Omega Ploprof immediately comes to mind, as does something like the Singer Divetrack – these are watches that play with the form of what we understand a watch to be in the name of functionality. Citizen, for 40 years, has also made a watch that fits neatly into this category: the Aqualand. The name is a bit of an oxymoron, but the watch itself is less confusing. It has always been a uniquely specialized instrument tailored to the specific needs of divers. This year marks the 40th anniversary of t...
Fratello
The Best Thus Far? Meet The Blancpain × Swatch Fifty Fathoms Green Abyss
The Swatch press release for this watch says it’s “inspired by the unexplored.” The deep green new Blancpain × Swatch Fifty Fathoms Green Abyss with touches of black (bezel) and beige (markers, hands, bezel numerals, etc.) takes inspiration from the ocean’s depths. Blancpain × Swatch Scuba Fifty Fathoms Green Abyss This is the ninth Blancpain […] Visit The Best Thus Far? Meet The Blancpain × Swatch Fifty Fathoms Green Abyss to read the full article.
Monochrome
Introducing - The De Bethune Mystery Box: Forget Time, created by Fiona Krüger & Denis Flageollet
The “Mystery Box: Forget Time” results from the collaboration between Fiona Krüger and master watchmaker Denis Flageollet, founder of De Bethune. Known for her original approach to watch design, Fiona Krüger has built a reputation within the independent watchmaking world for her artistic yet technically demanding creations. Her past work, like the Skull and Chaos […]
Fratello
Traveling In Style - Hands-On With The New Héron Mirabel GMT
Have you ever noticed that most GMT watches are quite sporty? That’s great for many people, but what if you travel for work or simply have a more formal style? Well, Canadian microbrand Héron has got your back! I would like to introduce you to the Héron Mirabel GMT, a dressy travel watch - or, […] Visit Traveling In Style - Hands-On With The New Héron Mirabel GMT to read the full article.
Monochrome
First Look - The New Seiko Presage Classic Series Unglazed Arita Porcelain SPB497
Seiko has shown great skill and creativity when it comes to its watches, mostly in the art of dial making. Ranging from simple to complex, there’s always an interesting story surrounding the inspiration and the creation of its dials. Whether it be a texture of Edo silk, or the shift in colour in the waters […]
Fratello
Citizen Celebrates 40 Years Of The Aqualand With A Limited Edition Of The Depth-Gauge Diver
In 1985, Citizen revolutionized the world of dive watches by introducing the Aqualand. Among the standout features of this then-state-of-the-art dive tool were the multifunctional digital display and built-in electronic depth gauge. The latter gave the watch its distinct shape, with the depth sensor’s hardware element protruding from the left side of the case. The […] Visit Citizen Celebrates 40 Years Of The Aqualand With A Limited Edition Of The Depth-Gauge Diver to read the full article.
Monochrome
Introducing - The New Citizen Aqualand Promaster 40th Anniversary Limited Edition
In certain very specific situations, one’s life could very much depend on a watch, especially when it comes to environments humans are not good at surviving without support. And this is where tool watches can, literally, play a vital role. Plunging ourselves into the depths of the ocean, for instance, is a fine example of […]
Hodinkee
Review: 'The Making Of A Status Symbol, A Business History of Rolex' Translated To English For The First Time
Pierre-Yves Donzé's business history of Rolex documents how the Swiss brand embraced the idea of individual success while making its watches the ultimate status symbol.
Hodinkee
Happenings: Keith Scobie-Youngs To Lecture At The Horological Society Of New York
The Cumbria Clock Company Co-Founder will discuss Big Ben's recent restoration.
Quill & Pad
Tissot PRX Powermatic 80 Review: THE Near-Perfect Swiss Watch and it’s Relatively Affordable
Tissot was a brand that Raman Kalra knew about and he often saw their watches, but they never really sparked any interest. Then the PRX was released, and he started to take an interest and took the plunge. As an owner here are his impressions of the Tissot PRX Powermatic 80.
Monochrome
First Look - The Beaubleu Ecce Figura
Beaubleu is a young brand founded in 2017, but it quickly established a unique style with circular hour, minute and seconds hands within a round case. Designed and assembled in Paris, the watches have a style that’s unmistakably Beaubleu. The latest collection, Ecce Figura, follows its round Ecce collection from 2023 and presents the circular […]
Monochrome
Introducing - The New J.N. Shapiro Infinity Series Pure
J.N. Shapiro, one of the celebrated names in independent watchmaking, has earned a following for his masterful use of traditional guilloché and thoughtful, almost philosophical approach to design. Founded by former educator Josh Shapiro, the California-based brand gained recognition with the Infinity Series, showcasing the artisanal craft with Shapiro’s now-signature “Infinity Weave” guilloché pattern. The […]
Fratello
What’s The Perfect Size For The Rolex Land-Dweller?
The Rolex Land-Dweller was the most talked-about release of this year’s Watches and Wonders. Regardless of whether the watch appealed to everyone, due to the groundbreaking new caliber and revival of the Oysterquartz design, the general impact of the Land-Dweller was palpable. We had an opportunity to experience the 36mm and 40mm models during Watches […] Visit What’s The Perfect Size For The Rolex Land-Dweller? to read the full article.
Monochrome
Introducing - The Frederique Constant Classic Tourbillon Manufacture, now with Light Blue MoP Dial
The tourbillon has long been one of the long list of complications developed internally by Frederique Constant, used as a stand-alone feature or even paired with a perpetual calendar. And, in classic style for the brand, often with a price that’s well below the industry average. A couple of years ago, in line with its […]
SJX Watches
The Entry-Level Ulysse Nardin Freak Gains a Grand Feu Enamel Dial
Ulysse Nardin gives its most affordable Freak a new look with a blue flinqué enamel dial and rose gold case. The brand has launched three other Freaks with enamel dials over the past two years, but all were small-run, retailer-exclusive limited editions. The Freak X Gold Enamel, on the other hand, is not retailer-specific and will be limited to 120 examples. The watch puts Ulysse Nardin’s investments in silicon fabrication and dial making to good use, and with good results. The combination of traditional métiers d’art with state-of-the-art technology also makes it more approachable to traditionalists than a typical Freak. Initial Thoughts Even as it nears 25 years on the market, Ulysse Nardin’s Freak remains avant-garde in aesthetics and technology. The Freak looks and feels like a small-batch concept watch, rather than the collection staple it’s become. It’s hard to believe you can walk into a retailer and walk out with something like this from a major Swiss brand for less than six figures. A rarely mentioned refinement is the use of clear sapphire jewels, rather than the typical reddish-purple rubies. It’s rare for brands to harmonize jewel colors with the rest of the watch, but it always results in a more cohesive look. Besides striking looks, its also a surprisingly practical watch, with a reasonably sized case, respectable lume, and 50 m water resistance. Overall, a well-rounded package, though the US$10,300 premium for the enamel dial over the regular ...
Fratello
Introducing: The Hublot Big Bang Meca-10 Concrete Jungle - A Special Edition For NYC
Watch brands launch special editions on every occasion, from anniversaries of their founding or famous models to the signing of new ambassadors and the opening of new flagship boutiques. Let me introduce you to the Hublot Big Bang Meca-10 Concrete Jungle, a special-edition watch launched to celebrate the new Hublot Fifth Avenue flagship boutique. It […] Visit Introducing: The Hublot Big Bang Meca-10 Concrete Jungle - A Special Edition For NYC to read the full article.
Fratello
Hands-On With The New Gold-Plated Forstner Bracelets
As a die-hard collector of vintage watches, I’ve grown to appreciate the right accessories to pair with my treasured pieces. Straps are a great option, and we’ve devoted plenty of articles to reviewing them. However, an appropriate bracelet is the chef’s kiss. The problem is that authentic bracelets are difficult to find and are often […] Visit Hands-On With The New Gold-Plated Forstner Bracelets to read the full article.
Hodinkee
Hands-On: The Return Of The Rolex Meteorite Daytonas, The Ultimate Version Of The Ref. 126519
A closer look at a favorite option from the current Daytona catalog.
Monochrome
Introducing - The NYC-Special Hublot Big Bang Meca-10 Concrete Jungle
Hublot’s Big Bang Meca-10 series was first introduced in 2016, and since then, the line has been known for its original design and 240-hour power reserve and an in-house movement that exposes its mechanism through a skeletonized display. Over the years, the series has been interpreted in various materials and sizes, including titanium, ceramic, carbon […]
Worn & Wound
Hands-On: the Trafford Watch Co. Daytripper
I have the unfortunate obligation to begin this review with a shocking admission: Zach Kazan was right. Some time ago, during one of my back-to-back travel periods where I jumped through time zones, I had a spirited debate with our Managing Editor. I maintained that I not only enjoyed having a GMT, but needed one to keep my timing straight; while Zach insisted that I was wrong. In the past, a traveller’s GMT had been an invaluable tool in the workplace, keeping me mindful of editors working in other time zones. Yet, Zach argued that all you needed was an independently adjustable hour hand and some basic math skills. If you are working across time zones, do the math. If you are traveling through them, change the hour without messing with minutes and seconds. Immediately upon landing back in New York from a trip to London, I started looking for an Omega Aqua Terra. During my search, it struck me as odd that this jumping hours complication (without an associated GMT) was not more widely seen, and never really on the more attainable side of things. Sure, you can find it in models from Omega, parts of Citizen’s The Citizen collection, the Ming 17.09, and newer Grand Seiko 9F models; but all of those will set you back a few thousand dollars. That is, until now. As if from some stroke of divine intervention, I received word of a new watch coming from Trafford Watch Co., utilizing a clever movement alteration to achieve this complication at a much more attainable price point...
Monochrome
First Look - The new Zenith Defy Extreme Diver and Defy Revival Diver Shadow Editions
One of the pillars of Zenith’s collection, the Defy is a descendant of late 1960s models known for their sturdy construction and angular design. Marketed as the Time-Safe, the collection included a full-fledged diving version, the Defy Plongeur (Ref. A3648 and its variations), a 600m water-resistant watch equipped with a unidirectional rotating bezel. Following the […]
Hodinkee
Introducing: Zenith Goes Dark With The Defy Extreme Diver Shadow And Defy Revival Diver Shadow
Back in black, with a little bit of lightning that makes the watch look thunderstruck, the fan favorite divers from last year have returned.
Monochrome
Introducing - The Laurent Ferrier Sport Auto 79 now in Red Gold
The Sport Auto, first released in 2022, wasn’t the first attempt of Laurent Ferrier to create an elegant sports watch with an integrated bracelet. This must be credited to the Grand Sport, a large and high-end model with a tourbillon. However, the Sport Auto was even more important, as it entered the coveted category with […]
Fratello
Hands-On With The Decadent Yet Tasteful Laurent Ferrier Sport Auto 79
Laurent Ferrier is one of my favorite modern watchmakers, so when a new LF model comes out, it always piques my attention. This time, I got the chance to go hands-on with the latest creation, the Laurent Ferrier Sport Auto 79. And that, my dear Fratelli, is a chance I wouldn’t dream of passing up. […] Visit Hands-On With The Decadent Yet Tasteful Laurent Ferrier Sport Auto 79 to read the full article.