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New: Pagès Régulateur à détente RP1 – an insider commentary
Raúl Pagès announces the third chapter in his independent career with a new watch he designed and hand makes: the new Régulateur à détente RP1.
Results for Syringe Hand
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SJX Watches
Chanel Introduces the Boy.Friend Skeleton Red Edition
While Chanel watches were all about the Electro “Rainbow” last year, its 2022 high horology timepieces form the Red Edition Collection. Including in the line up are the Boy.Friend Skeleton Red Editions, both ladies watches powered by the same notably interesting in-house movement, the hand-wind Caliber 3. Initial thoughts Chanel puts out fine mechanical movements – the Caliber 1 of the Monsieur exemplifies that – but typically with the bold, varied, and tasteful style that only a fashion house can achieve. The new pair of Boy.Friend Skeleton watches are exactly that. The clean, distinctive shape is inspired by a perfume bottle, but it has a strong form that is appealing. More appealing is the Caliber 3 inside, an in-house movement with a strong geometric aesthetic that suits the case perfectly. It is clear the movement’s developers wanted it to look good, and they succeeded. The Caliber 3 inside the Boy.Friend Skeleton X-Ray Red Edition with a clear sapphire case Though both watches are certainly large enough to be men’s watches – the case dimensions are similar to a men’s Cartier Tank – they are unquestionably ladies’ watches (and Chanel markets them as such). Given the compelling movement, the Boy.Friend Skeleton one of the most interesting time-only watches for ladies on the market. The Boy.Friend Skeleton Red Edition in Beige Gold set with rubies Bottle shaped The rectangular case of the Boy.Friend is modelled on the bottle cap of Chanel’s No. 9...
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Review: The New Chopard L.U.C XP Skeletec
The year was 1996, and Chopard had just inaugurated its own manufactory in Fleurier. The Chopard Manufacture was dedicated to crafting so-called “L.U.C” movements entirely decorated by hand. Today, over a quarter of a century on and dozens of models later, the L.U.C collection has grown into Chopard’s most prestigious line, with plenty of awardsRead More
Quill & Pad
Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Ultra Thin Moon Enamel: Once In A Blue Moon – Reprise
Enamel dials are not as uncommon as they once were, and brands need to do a little bit more to stand out. Jaeger-LeCoultre has no problem with that as the Master Ultra Thin Moon Enamel features eye-catching blue enamel over a hand-guilloche dial. Martin Green looks at what else makes this model stand out.
Revolution
A Bird’s Eye View
To celebrate 300 years of making complex and fascinating timepieces, Jaquet Droz has released a collection of eight new pieces that celebrates the thrill and excitement of hand-painted and engraved intricate animations.
SJX Watches
Highlights: A. Lange & Söhne Exceptional Masterpieces of Handwerkskunst
An exhibition dedicated to limited-edition watches from A. Lange & Söhne, Exceptional Masterpieces recently concluded after a five-day run in Singapore. The event was fully subscribed every day it was open, but attendance was limited due to health regulations. Amongst the watches on show were all the Handwerkskunst limited editions. German for “craftsmanship”, handwerkskunst is an apt label for the series, which is made up of watches featuring artisanal decoration executed by hand, most often engraving but also enamelling on occasion. Inaugurated a decade ago, the series is now a family of seven watches, but each model was limited to no more than 30 pieces, which means the entire series totals less than 200 watches, making them amongst the rarest of Lange watches. So for anyone who missed out on the exhibition, here’s a look at five of our favourite Handwerkskunst editions. (For an in-depth look at each of the Handwerkskunst watches, see our definitive guide to the series published in 2020.) 2012 – Zeitwerk Handwerkskunst (ref. 140.048) The second of the series, the Zeitwerk Handwerkskunst very much stuck to the formula set established by opening act, the Richard Lange Tourbillon Pour le Mérite Handwerkskunst. While the mechanics remained almost identical, the decoration an upgraded over the standard version with elaborate engraving on both the front and back, but executed in a restrained manner that embodies the low-key style of the German watchmaker. Preci...
Revolution
Introducing the James Lamb Origin Series
British watchmaker James Lamb launches his debut Origin series, featuring hand-made silver cases and striking champlevé enamel dials.
SJX Watches
Girard-Perregaux Unveils the La Esmeralda Tourbillon “à Secret” Eternity Edition
Most famous for the triple-golden bridge tourbillon, Girard-Perregaux is paying tribute to that 19th century invention the La Esmeralda Tourbillon “à Secret” Eternity Edition, which arrives just in time for its 230th anniversary. The latest La Esmeralda Tourbillon is strikingly different from its predecessors – clearly no expense was spared in its decoration. Lavishly hand-engraved and enamelled – front and back and even on the sides of the case – the La Esmeralda even incorporates a novel movement finishing technique known as concave anglage on its gold bridges. The original La Esmeralda was a late-19th century pocket watch sold by a Mexican retailer of the same name Initial thoughts Girard-Perregaux has reinterpreted the triple bridge constructions in many different ways, resulting in a large family of “bridge” watches that includes an ultra-modern example with “flying” bridges and even one without a tourbillon at all. Still the La Esmeralda manages to stand out – by a large margin – because it’s truly exquisite. The decoration is magnificent, while also being faithful to the original with its equestrian theme. In fact, it surpasses the one-off La Esmeralda Tourbillon “à Secret” made in 2018, both in terms of style and artisanal quality. Even from a distance, the La Esmeralda is clearly different from past triple-bridge models, though the traditional arrow-shaped bridges remain obvious. The dial features two golden horses, each replac...
Time+Tide
Andrew’s escape to Switzerland to visit Longines
This video was never scheduled to happen. However, waking up on a crisp Saturday morning in Neuchatel with Marcus our Creative Director and video master on hand, I could not resist dragging him out of his room and into the fresh Swiss weekend atmosphere. The mission was really just to recap what we had done … ContinuedThe post Andrew’s escape to Switzerland to visit Longines appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Hodinkee
Watch Of The Week: The Timex Marlin I Wore To Get Married
It's not fashionable and it's not expensive, but my hand-wound Timex Marlin is a watch that truly gets me.
Time+Tide
MICRO MONDAYS: The CuleM Skyline GMT Collection
When it comes down to it, a watch with a GMT complication is really just a love letter to travelling. Regardless of their original purpose as pilot’s watches or otherwise, whenever someone sees a GMT their mind instantly imagines adjusting that little fourth hand to their home time while taking off to somewhere new and … ContinuedThe post MICRO MONDAYS: The CuleM Skyline GMT Collection appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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Quick takes: new Breitling Premier B15 Duograph 42
The Breitling Premier B15 Duograph is Breitling’s take on a split second chronograph with a center monopusher. Featuring rectangular chronograph pushers and Arabic numerals, the heritage-revived Premier Duograph displays a variety of details such as grooves on the case-sides, open sapphire casebacks and syringe hands. The Duograph comes in stainless steel with a blue dial or in 18k red gold with a black dial.
SJX Watches
Romain Gauthier Introduces the Continuum
Romain Gauthier’s latest watch is a surprise (sort of, since a one-off version was revealed for Only Watch 2021). Instead of being a successor to the mechanically and artistically impressive Logical One, the Continuum is a simple, time-only watch that transforms one of the brand’s first models into a modern, sporty watch. Fabricated entirely of titanium, including the muted dial and hand-wind movement, the Continuum is notably lightweight at just 55 grams including the strap and buckle. Initial thoughts While high-end watches across the board are enjoying a boom in demand, luxury-sports watches stand out for being the hottest genre. For that reason, even brands that have long focused on classical, complicated watchmaking have entered the sports watch arena. So sports watches are increasingly mundane, with every new release almost feeling like one too many. That chips away at the appeal of the Continuum, though it’s clearly executed to a high level, as is expected of Romain Gauthier. The red lines radiating from the small seconds smartly fill up the bottom half of the dial, which is larger than usual with the off-center hours and minutes hands The Continuum does look like a Romain Gauthier, despite an all-new design. It has enough elements from the brand’s past models that it feels like an evolved version of classical offerings such as the Insight Micro Rotor. That said, its bezel with wide machined notches does appear derivative, especially because it doesn’t ...
SJX Watches
Introducing the Kudoke 2 “Zodiac” – SJX Edition Two
Like the recent Habring² Erwin “Star”, the Kudoke 2 “Zodiac” was conceived to encapsulate the brand’s work while being different enough to stand apart from its other watches. Limited to 21 pieces (and one prototype), the Zodiac is the first watch in the brand’s Handwerk collection that is fully engraved on the front and back – entirely hand engraved in fact, with the only machine engraving on the watch being the markings on the rim of the case back. Origins This started with the simple fact that I was impressed with the Kudoke 2 when I first saw it in 2019. The watch also won the Petite Aiguille prize at the year’s Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG). Equally important was the fact that I appreciate the specialised, artisanal nature of the Dresden-based brand, which is essentially a husband-and-wife enterprise led by by Stefan and Ev Kudoke. That said, I did wish the dial of the Kudoke 2 had more detail. And at the same time, Kudoke historically specialised in hand-engraved movements, which made it was obvious the solution was to enhance the Kudoke 2 with engraved decoration. “Kudoke” is hand engraved on the applied plaque whereas on the standard model it is machine engraved The starting point of the Zodiac was the day-and-night indicator on the standard Kudoke 2 – it is my favourite element and had to be retained. And its celestial-Art Deco would influence the rest of the Zodiac’s design. The day and night scale with a tiny crescent at 12 ...
Revolution
Introducing the Massena LAB x Luca Soprana “Old School”
Devoid of excess, Old School is solid, sober and austere, a simple time-only watch that brims with precision in reading and hand-crafted detail.
Time+Tide
Unpacking Jaeger-LeCoultre’s mysterious new film with British actor Nicholas Hoult
News that Jaeger-LeCoultre have teamed with British actor Nicholas Hoult on “a new short film” is intriguing. After all, if a recipe is only as good as the quality of the ingredients, French director Théo Gottlieb has a couple of hand-picked treats straight from that over-priced deli that you only go to on really special … ContinuedThe post Unpacking Jaeger-LeCoultre’s mysterious new film with British actor Nicholas Hoult appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
In-Depth: Patek Philippe Calatrava Ref. 6119 “Clous de Paris”
Launched earlier this year, the Calatrava Ref. 6119 “Clous de Paris” is significant amongst Patek Philippe’s recent releases, despite being a simple, time-only watch. That’s because it’s powered by the all-new cal. 30-255 PS, a large, thin movement that is the new workhorse calibre for the brand’s entry-level, hand-wind watches. Visually, the ref. 6119 takes its cues from past Calatrava models, but the overall design is contemporary and elevated by details like the facetted hour markers and textured dial. But the crucial feature of the ref. 6119 remains the new movement inside. The cal. 30-255, with its large, twin barrels and Gyromax balance The historical context Named after the Patek Philippe emblem, the Calatrava was introduced in 1932, the same year the Stern family took over the watchmaker as it struggled amidst the Great Depression. The original Calatrava was the ref. 96, a handsome but minuscule watch just 31 mm in diameter. While the Calatrava family has multiplied and grown in diversity since its launch, the ref. 96 remains the definitive Calatrava design. Its widely-spaced lugs, baton markers, and dauphine hands are instantly recognisable together, despite being relatively generic in themselves. In fact, the ref. 96 was influential in defining Patek Philippe’s house style for decades; the ref. 130, for instance, was essentially a ref. 96 with a chronograph. A ref. 570 from 1943, essentially an enlarged ref. 96 One of the longest-lived references ...
Time+Tide
Original Sinn – A close encounter with the legendary U1 dive watch
What is probably the most important and significant Sinn U1 dive watch has surfaced in Wellington, New Zealand. The Sinn U1 is one of the most recognisable and respected dive watches available today. With its almost Bauhaus utilitarian dial, iconic syringe hands and bead-blasted Tegiment Submarine Steel case, this watch is no pretender, flexing in … ContinuedThe post Original Sinn – A close encounter with the legendary U1 dive watch appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Quill & Pad
Armin Strom Gravity Equal Force Ultimate Sapphire: Highlighting Technicity With Transparency
For the Gravity Equal Force Ultimate Sapphire, Armin Strom teamed up with Kari Voutilainen to give the backplate a refined guilloche motif. We clearly see the hand of the master in this: while the design of the guilloche is not particularly outgoing, it shows its refinement in the way that it is draped around the other parts of the watch. It gently directs the eye to all the right places, allowing admiration for this technical-looking piece to grow.
Quill & Pad
Bell & Ross Gets It Right With The BR 05 GMT
When Bell & Ross introduced the BR 05 in 2019, Martin Green wasn't a big fan. But he had a completely different reaction when he first set eyes on the attractive and efficient BR 05 GMT. The extra hand with red-tipped luminous arrow and a chapter ring with 24-hour indices made all the difference for him.
Time+Tide
CHEAP BASTARD: The Timex Q 1975 Reissue is a retro bargain for $305
When your back catalogue runs as deep and storied as Timex, dipping your horological toe into the re-issues pool should be a no brainer. Having already exhibited some serious nous by reimaging the mid-century Marlin in both hand-wound and automatic varities – plus one for the ladies – the American manufacturer has again dipped into … ContinuedThe post CHEAP BASTARD: The Timex Q 1975 Reissue is a retro bargain for $305 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
Grand Seiko extends warranty period from three to five years for all purchases made after 1/1/2021
Usually when we discuss Grand Seiko it’s all about their faceted designs, nature-inspired dials, and the value they pose against their Swiss competitors with the great amount of hand-finishing they present at lower price points. Now another box can get ticked off for buyers of the brand with the news that Grand Seiko recently announced … ContinuedThe post Grand Seiko extends warranty period from three to five years for all purchases made after 1/1/2021 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Quill & Pad
H. Moser & Cie Streamliner Perpetual Calendar: Elegant Minimalism
Edouard Meylan, CEO of H. Moser & Cie, says of the new Streamliner Perpetual Calendar, “Looking at this piece one might think it is a three-hand watch with a date, yet it is the most practical perpetual calendar ever developed." Nancy Olson explains why he is quite right.
Quill & Pad
Oscillon l’Instant de Vérité: The Most − If Not The Only − Fully Handmade Watch Available Today
I know of only three watchmakers making watches completely (no CNC machines) by hand today: Greubel Forsey with its Hand Made 1 and Dominique Buser and Cyrano Devanthey, who are hand-making watches they call l’Instant de Vérité under the umbrella of their own micro brand Oscillon. And what a watch this is!
SJX Watches
The Hour Striker Made Surprisingly Affordable
A German brand with a specific and quirky focus, Meistersinger produces watches with only one hand that simultaneous indicates the hours and minutes. Having been founded in 2001, Meistersinger has rolled out a variety of one-handed watches in its two decades, but earlier this year it debuted perhaps the most interesting to date, the hour-striking Edition Bell Hora. A chiming watch for surprisingly little money, the Bell Hora strikes a single note at the top of every hour. It accomplishes that with a straightforward chiming module on top of a Sellita base movement, explaining its affordable price tag. First launched earlier this year with a metallic finish dial, the Bell Hora is now given a more classical, white-lacquered dial in a limited edition. Initial thoughts Meistersinger by and large only does one product, but in a vast number of iterations. To appreciate any of them, you have to like a single-handed watch, which is a good idea if executed right. In terms of design, Meistersinger’s offerings have been a mixed bag. The new Bell Hora fortunately gets it right. Bringing to mind vintage “multi-scale” chronographs, the white dial has evokes an old-school medical instruments. The watch is, however, quite large at 43 mm, and also thick at 13 mm high. But the Bell Hora does well where it matters. The base movement is a low-cost Sellita, which isn’t fancy but it is an hour striker: a single note is sounded at the top of every hour. For a bit over US$4,000, it’s...
Time+Tide
MICRO MONDAYS: Go green with the About Vintage x Kristian Haagen 1970 GMT
How many times have you ever turned to a buddy and said: “We should start our own watch brand”. Picture this: two childhood friends on vacation, Coronas in hand, watching a sunset over the ocean in Mexico. For the two founders of About Vintage it was a moment of creative zen. With a passion for … ContinuedThe post MICRO MONDAYS: Go green with the About Vintage x Kristian Haagen 1970 GMT appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Kees Engelbarts Introduces the Dragon Gate Trilogy
According to Chinese legend, a carp that could jump the falls at the Dragon Gate of the Yellow River would transform into a dragon. The tale inspired the latest from Kees Engelbarts, a Dutchman who’s one of the most prominent engravers in Swiss watchmaking. The Dragon Gate Trilogy is a three-piece set of watches, each featuring a unique, hand-engraved and enamelled decoration that charts the carp’s transformation from fish to dragon. They are presented in an equally lavish box that’s hand made by a French cabinet maker and decorated by an award-winning lacquer artisan. Initial thoughts Over his two decades in watchmaking, Mr Engelbarts has created wristwatches of surprisingly diverse variety. Last year’s skeleton tourbillon was airy and organic, while the Dragon Gate Trilogy is decidedly more decorative. The trio is certainly not for everyone, though I do like the middle of the three watches, which depicts the carp in the midst of its transformation. The dial is striking and dramatic. The transformation dial But while the style is subjective, the quality of Mr Engelbart’s work is objectively excellent – unsurprising given that he’s long been a go-to engraver for a number of independent watchmakers, including veteran Svend Andersen. Mr Engelbart’s creations are truly high-quality artisanal work. The engraving is finely detailed and three dimensional, while being enhanced by Mr Engelbart’s clever use of exotic materials. The carp dial, for instance, feature...
Time+Tide
OWNER’S REVIEW: a month in with the Kurono Anniversary 朱鷺:Toki
At this stage in my collection I look for variety. Truth be told, I have already ticked a lot boxes: a stainless-steel professional Rolex, a high-horology watch with exquisite hand-finishing, divers, GMTs, chronographs etc, so it is hard for me to justify buying more and more of the same. One example: I love the new … ContinuedThe post OWNER’S REVIEW: a month in with the Kurono Anniversary 朱鷺:Toki appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Quill & Pad
How To Make A Milanese Watch Bracelet (Video) – Reprise
Our friends at The Watches TV visited Laurent Jolliet, the last “chain maker” in business in Switzerland according to Marc André Deschoux. As Jolliet crafts his bracelets and chains fully by hand, Deschoux and crew were able to find out in detail how Milanese bracelets are made, an art form no longer formally taught, and they share the secrets with us here.
Time+Tide
TAG Heuer revives the mythical Monaco “Dark Lord” for Only Watch
Any fan of racing chronographs should be familiar with the Heuer Monaco “Dark Lord”. Introduced in 1974, this mythical all-black Monaco was clad in a PVD coating and powered by a hand-wound Valjoux 7740. Only a very small run of the “Dark Lord” watches were produced, making it amongst the most valuable Heuer watches today. … ContinuedThe post TAG Heuer revives the mythical Monaco “Dark Lord” for Only Watch appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.