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Results for Above the Date Window

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Above the Date Window: Steve McQueen’s Monaco and What Sotheby’s Catalogues Really Tell You

Steve McQueen’s Le Mans Heuer Monaco 1133B crossed Sotheby’s block. The above-the-date-window detail collectors spotted, the hammer price, why it matters.

Introducing: An Icy New White-Dial Variant Of The 39mm Longines Legend Diver Fratello
Longines Legend Diver May 16, 2025

Introducing: An Icy New White-Dial Variant Of The 39mm Longines Legend Diver

The 39mm Longines Legend Diver is one of those rare watches that all of us at Fratello HQ like. While most watches spark at least some kind of debate among Fratello editors, the Legend Diver is universally admired. So when Longines releases a new dial variant, we pay attention, especially when it is a crisp […] Visit Introducing: An Icy New White-Dial Variant Of The 39mm Longines Legend Diver to read the full article.

Hands-On With The Surprising Ball Roadmaster M Model A Fratello
Ball Watch once you encounter one May 16, 2025

Hands-On With The Surprising Ball Roadmaster M Model A

You will remember a Ball watch once you encounter one. The brand’s distinct style immediately stands out from the large crowd of watches available these days. Several of Ball’s watches have tritium micro-gas tubes that light up in the dark. This unique form of lume has led to an instantly recognizable numeral style that defines […] Visit Hands-On With The Surprising Ball Roadmaster M Model A to read the full article.

Introducing: The Seiko 5 Sports SRPL83, SRPL85, SRPL87, And SRPL89 Fratello
Seiko 5 Sports SRPL83 SRPL85 May 15, 2025

Introducing: The Seiko 5 Sports SRPL83, SRPL85, SRPL87, And SRPL89

Over the past six years, the current Seiko 5 Sports collection has become widely diverse. First announced in August 2019, spec-wise, it wasn’t a direct successor to the famous SKX dive watches. However, with the discontinuation of the SKX series and the SRPD models’ visual link to those watches, it’s clear where the inspiration came […] Visit Introducing: The Seiko 5 Sports SRPL83, SRPL85, SRPL87, And SRPL89 to read the full article.

Serica Introduces the 5303 PLD, a New Diver Made in Collaboration with the French Navy Worn & Wound
Serica Introduces May 15, 2025

Serica Introduces the 5303 PLD, a New Diver Made in Collaboration with the French Navy

Serica has unveiled the new 5303 PLD, a new dive watch the brand has developed in partnership with the French Navy. Specifically, the watch was developed with the EOD (Explosive Ordinance Disposal) team, which, I think most people will understand, is a fairly highly specialized and dangerous diving discipline. The watch follows the form and function of Serica’s popular 5303 diver, but with a few small tweaks that distinguish it from the standard version without calling out to its inspiration too overtly.  The most notable and obvious change from the standard 5303 is the new bezel, which has a “DT Max” scale as opposed to the standard dive bezel that allows you to count minutes from a given start time. The DT Max bezel features twin scales (minutes and meters) that display the “maximum working time” at a given depth. This allows a diver, in theory, to ascend continuously without decompression stops, a necessity for EOD divers. The number at the outer scale (“profonduer,” or depth) relates directly to a number on the inner scale, the number of minutes a diver can safely work. Not super functional for anyone not on a dive, but it provides a very real reminder of the danger of the sport, and adds a certain charm to the piece. The bezel itself is rendered in a shade the brand refers to as “abyssal blue,” and it’s a very nice shade that further sets this diver apart from other watches in the Serica lineup.  Serica has also tweaked the dial in small ways for...

Hands-On With The New Ming 29.01 Midnight Fratello
Ming 29.01 Midnight When Ming May 15, 2025

Hands-On With The New Ming 29.01 Midnight

When Ming offers to send you a watch to spend time with, you don’t say no, even if it’s something you have seen before. The Ming 29.01 Worldtimer hit the market almost exactly two years ago. This week, the model received an upgrade or, better yet, a line extension with the new Ming 29.01 Midnight. […] Visit Hands-On With The New Ming 29.01 Midnight to read the full article.

Introducing - The New Serica 5303 PLD “Plongeur Démineur” Dive Chronometer Monochrome
Serica 5303 PLD “Plongeur Démineur” May 15, 2025

Introducing - The New Serica 5303 PLD “Plongeur Démineur” Dive Chronometer

Serica began its journey with a classic field watch, and since its launch in 2019, the young brand has quickly carved out a strong identity with a lineup of retro-inspired, adventure-ready timepieces, spanning field, dive, and GMT models, and something else a bit dressier. Designed with durability, precision, and style in mind, every Serica watch […]

Fears Introduces the EXPERIMENTAL 01 and the Brunswick 40 “Odyssey Edition” Worn & Wound
Fears Introduces May 15, 2025

Fears Introduces the EXPERIMENTAL 01 and the Brunswick 40 “Odyssey Edition”

Never one to shy away from their heritage as a British watchmaker, Fears has cooked up yet another savvy partnership that highlights their ability to innovate while holding down a cohesive aesthetic. This time, however, the collaboration isn’t with another watchmaker or boutique. Rather, it comes to us in the form of a watch built for “A Great British Odyssey” in which ultra endurance athlete Angus Collins will attempt to become the first person to complete an unsupported, solo row around mainland Great Britain. Fears has signed on as Collins’ official timekeeping partner, and has designed and produced a purpose-built timepiece for the task-a special version of their Brunswick 40mm, the EXPERIMENTAL 01.  A savvy British watch fan may pause here and say, “hang on-since when does Fears do tool watches?” The EXPERIMENTAL 01 is the brand’s first foray into the ultra-utility category of timekeeping since the 1970s, and though it’s based on the structure of the Brunswick 40 (originally launched in October 2022), it also features eight highlighted improvements that make it purpose built for Collins’ task: a fixed bar attachment (laser-welded onto the lugs), a satinised case finish, 300 meters of water resistance, a glare resistant dial, Grade X2 Super-LumiNova on the hands and appliques, ultra-contrast hands, an MN Elasticated strap, and rigorous in-house precision time testing.  Style-wise, the EXPERIMENTAL 01 draws heavily from its source material, the B...

A Hands-On Introduction To The New Omega Railmaster With A Beige Or Gray Gradient Dial Fratello
Omega Railmaster May 15, 2025

A Hands-On Introduction To The New Omega Railmaster With A Beige Or Gray Gradient Dial

With recent Speedmaster and Seamaster releases, Omega quietly put the new watches on its ambassadors’ wrists to hint at what was coming. We could have missed it, but we don’t think the same happened with the newly revised Railmaster. Supposedly, there was a leaked image, but it came with very little information. Luckily, we’ve recently […] Visit A Hands-On Introduction To The New Omega Railmaster With A Beige Or Gray Gradient Dial to read the full article.

Portrait - For Professionals Only, Worldwatch.market, a Brilliant New Approach to the Global Watch Trade Monochrome
May 15, 2025

Portrait - For Professionals Only, Worldwatch.market, a Brilliant New Approach to the Global Watch Trade

The watch trade market has become sprawling. Digital channels have been added to single-brand and multi-brand points of sale: specialised platforms, digital media that have evolved towards an additional retail offering (limited and dedicated series), social networks (Instagram, WhatsApp, Telegram) flooded with offers of second-hand (and sometimes new) pieces. A jungle characterised by a common […]

Ming Introduces the New 29.01 “Midnight” Worldtimer Worn & Wound
Ming Introduces May 14, 2025

Ming Introduces the New 29.01 “Midnight” Worldtimer

Ming has announced their latest release, a follow up to the 29.01 Worldtimer which launched in 2023. The new 29.01 Midnight is conceived as the flipside to the original, which was presented in titanium with a blue/black gradient dial. The new watch is a blacked out version, with a DLC coating on the titanium case, and a black dial with layers of sapphire and, as we often see with Ming, loaded with lume. The release follows a bit of a pattern we saw with the 37.09, which debuted with the bright and colorful Bluefin about one year ago, and saw a darker sibling emerge several months later with the Uni. The colorway of the 29.01 Midnight is, in fact, directly lifted from the Uni, providing yet another connection between Ming watch families.  The 29.01 is one of my personal favorite examples of Ming’s higher end, haute horlogery offerings, as the worldtimer format really allows the brand to flex a bit. While I think many probably associate Ming with a certain strain of minimalism, the 29.01, by necessity, is throwing a lot at you, and it’s a great accomplishment on Ming’s part that the watch is able to communicate so much so clearly.  Here’s how it works. The cities representing the world’s time zones are printed on a sapphire upper dial. Below that, a metal base dial with a very subtle grained finish has the 24 hour scale printed on it. Throughout the day, the base dial rotates so that the 24 hour scale lines up with the correct time in each world city, hour by hou...

Rolex Explorer II 16570: The Best Value Rolex GMT Teddy Baldassarre
Rolex Explorer II 16570 May 14, 2025

Rolex Explorer II 16570: The Best Value Rolex GMT

My first Rolex was an Explorer II 216570 with black dial and I absolutely loved that watch. It was rarer than the GMT-Master II or Submariner, and didn’t have the ceramic bezel, which I found to be a little too glossy and “luxe” for what I was looking for in a watch at the time. I kept and wore the heck out of that watch for almost six years until I just felt like it didn’t speak to me anymore. The 42mm wide “Maxi” case seemed too big and the big, thick hour and minutes hands just began to bug me. I can’t explain why I was so dead set on the 216570 rather than the older 16570 at the time but I can certainly say that now, in 2025, the Rolex Explorer II 16570 is not just my preferred iteration of the modern spelunking watch, but an all-timer from Rolex. I’ve started to refer to the 16570 as a “Forever Rolex” because it ticks all the boxes - size, reliability, dual-time functionality, and discrete aesthetics - all while remaining one of the few Rolexes that isn’t immediately recognizable to every casual observer. Let’s take a look at why I’m such a big fan of this old-school Rolex. Case and Specs: The Other Rolex GMT Measuring 40mm wide and 12.2mm thick with a 47mm lug-to-lug height, the 16570 is an eminently wearable Rolex. And while this is very obviously a sport/tool watch, these proportions make for a very versatile and subdued piece. No, there isn’t a rotating bezel with a nickname-ready color combo here. Rather, there is a demure, fixed ...

First Look - The New Piaget Polo Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin with Obsidian Dials Monochrome
Piaget Polo Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin May 14, 2025

First Look - The New Piaget Polo Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin with Obsidian Dials

While Piaget is rightfully heralded as the precursor of ultra-thin calibres, it was also a pioneer of ornamental stone dials in the early 1960s. A decade or so later, under the direction of Yves Piaget, another milestone was reached with the release of the famous gold Polo sports watch in 1979. Its sleek gold integrated […]

Introducing - The New Ming 29.01 Midnight Worldtimer Monochrome
Ming 29.01 Midnight Worldtimer Though May 14, 2025

Introducing - The New Ming 29.01 Midnight Worldtimer

Though still under a decade old, independent watchmaker Ming has already established a solid reputation in the horological world, so much so that it hardly needs an introduction. With its instantly recognisable aesthetic, the brand has released several standout models over the years, including the 19.02 Worldtimer. First introduced in 2023, the 29.01 Worldtimer showcased […]

Introducing - The New Ice Blue Kurono Tokyo 2025 Jubilee Sensu EOL Monochrome
Kurono Tokyo 2025 Jubilee Sensu EOL May 14, 2025

Introducing - The New Ice Blue Kurono Tokyo 2025 Jubilee Sensu EOL

After several years of covering this independent Japanese watch brand, you should now be familiar with Kurono Tokyo‘s work. And if not, what matters here is that we’re looking at the accessible side of independent watchmaker Hajime Asaoka (also behind the return of Takano), with classic designs and outsourced movements to keep the prices reasonable. […]

The Daniel Roth Extra Plat Returns in Rose Gold SJX Watches
Louis Vuitton has been making inroads May 14, 2025

The Daniel Roth Extra Plat Returns in Rose Gold

The recently resurrected Daniel Roth brand has added a second regular production model to its catalogue, the Extra Plat Rose Gold. It’s powered by the same DR002 movement found in the Extra Plat Souscription, a 20-piece limited edition in yellow gold with a solid case back, now with a sapphire case back to show off the handsome, shaped calibre inside. Image – Daniel Roth Initial Thoughts It’s no secret that Louis Vuitton has been making inroads into independent watchmaking, through collaborations with leading independents and the Louis Vuitton Watch Prize. Louis Vuitton has taken a more direct approach by reviving one of the first modern independents, and it seems to have paid off. Ironically, despite being the product of a luxury giant, the Daniel Roth Extra Plat is comparable to many offerings from niche makers, which can be seen as praise of the former or reproval of the latter. Image – Daniel Roth In another contradiction, the Extra Plat’s 7.7 mm height isn’t exactly extra-flat by the standards of a two-hand, manually wound dress watch. For comparison, the original Extra Plat Automatic from 1990 was 6.7 mm thick, and the manual version was only 6 mm. This can be attributed to the new movement, which is thicker than those in historical Extra Plat models, but constructed and finished to a much higher standard, while also being an in-house calibre (the originals were powered by Frederic Piguet). Image – Daniel Roth The new regular production has more mainst...

First Look - The New Girard-Perregaux Deep Diver Legacy Edition with Bamford Monochrome
Girard-Perregaux Deep Diver Legacy Edition May 14, 2025

First Look - The New Girard-Perregaux Deep Diver Legacy Edition with Bamford

Girard-Perregaux has a rich history and has produced quite a few exceptional timepieces over time. The 1969 Deep Diver Ref. 9108 may not be as complex and elaborate or iconic as some of the brand’s better-known creations (Laureato, Tourbillons or Bridges, both historical and modern), but it left its mark as a rare dive watch […]

Girard-Perregaux Reintroduces The Deep Diver In Collaboration With Bamford Watch Department Fratello
Girard-Perregaux Reintroduces May 14, 2025

Girard-Perregaux Reintroduces The Deep Diver In Collaboration With Bamford Watch Department

As many of you know, the late ’60s and the first half of the ’70s were an era of design experimentation in the watch industry. While Girard-Perregaux might not be the first name on people’s tongues when it comes to funky watches from this period, don’t think the brand didn’t have any. With the Casquette […] Visit Girard-Perregaux Reintroduces The Deep Diver In Collaboration With Bamford Watch Department to read the full article.

Introducing: The Titanium Vacheron Constantin Overseas Grand Complication Openface Fratello
Vacheron Constantin Overseas Grand Complication Openface May 14, 2025

Introducing: The Titanium Vacheron Constantin Overseas Grand Complication Openface

What happens when you take the 2755 QP movement out of the 2017 Traditionnelle Calibre 2755 (ref. 80172/000R-B406), update the design so it caters to an audience with a more contemporary taste, and put it in the sportiest of watch designs available? You get the Vacheron Constantin Overseas Grand Complication Openface. This limited-production watch is […] Visit Introducing: The Titanium Vacheron Constantin Overseas Grand Complication Openface to read the full article.

A Minute Repeater You Can Take for a Swim: Vacheron Constantin Launches the Overseas Grand Complication Openface Worn & Wound
Vacheron Constantin Launches May 13, 2025

A Minute Repeater You Can Take for a Swim: Vacheron Constantin Launches the Overseas Grand Complication Openface

Another day, another cool Vacheron Constantin release. Barely a month on from Watches & Wonders (where I will remind you, Vacheron dropped the most complicated wristwatch ever made), the iconic brand, currently celebrating its 270th anniversary, has released another high complication heater - a skeleton dial, perpetual calendar, minute repeater with tourbillon dressed up as a titanium Overseas. Coming into 2025, it was pretty clear to see that Vacheron was ready to make some noise. For one thing, the brand was (as I mentioned) celebrating its 270th birthday, something the marketing folks at Vacheron have not been shy about, but more than that, the brand has been on a pretty incredible run over the last few years. Even without the cover of an anniversary year, recent new releases from Vacheron Constantin have increasingly been greeted as objects of interest, both in a technical and cultural sense, and there’s a real feeling that someone at Vacheron HQ clearly knows what they’re doing. The new Overseas Grand Complication Openface is an objectively impressive offering. Measuring in at 44.5mm across and 13.1mm thick in grade 5 titanium (a material also seen in last year’s Overseas tourbillon) this latest Overseas does feature slightly reworked case proportions, with a narrower bracelet relative to its smaller siblings and what looks to me to be a slightly longer lug to lug and thinner bezel, relative to its admittedly larger case size. The watch is also water resistant...

“Patina” or Damage? Scrutinizing the Fine Line Between Pleasing and Pesky Imperfections Worn & Wound
Rado x involves May 13, 2025

“Patina” or Damage? Scrutinizing the Fine Line Between Pleasing and Pesky Imperfections

The Ship of Theseus paradox involves the legendary vessel that Theseus––a Greek mythological hero who rescued the children of Athens and slayed the Minotaur of Crete––traveled on. To honor his valiant efforts, the Athenians preserved the ship and, over time, swapped parts that decayed or had become damaged, eventually replacing all of its original components. This, in turn, begs the question: is it still Theseus’ ship even if all the parts have been replaced? If not, at what point did it cease to be the original?  Now that our history lecture is over, I want to utilize this idea of time and identity to talk about a topic near and dear to our watch-collecting hearts: patina. A number of journalists and enthusiasts have discussed what patina is, how it can be defined in a horological sense, and the many forms it can take, but no one (to my knowledge) has discussed when deterioration or damage becomes patina. This may seem like a rather abstract subject to discuss, but most, if not all, collectors take condition into consideration when shopping for a watch. The two main questions that will help get to the bottom of this patina paradox are: 1.) At what point does damage become patina? and 2.) Is patina just a buzzword to market a watch with lots of aesthetic flaws?  The Evolution of Flaws to Patina One of patina’s most essential characteristics is its dependability on age. The natural degradation of luminous material, the color-changing properties of a dial often...