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Breitling Superocean and Superocean Heritage: The Ultimate Guide Teddy Baldassarre
Breitling Mar 27, 2024

Breitling Superocean and Superocean Heritage: The Ultimate Guide

Historically, Breitling is a watchmaker known for two horological specialties: aviation watches and chronographs. In its most famous timepieces, in fact, like the Navitimer and Chronomat, the two genres elegantly merge into an iconic whole. While this is still largely the case today, Breitling has also staked out for itself a successful and impactful niche in the category of dive watches; its robust and stylish Superocean collection, introduced in 1957 during the early heyday of recreational diving, continues to command a large and avid audience today. Now divided into two distinctively different yet historically related families - the Superocean and Superocean Heritage - and offering both three-hand and chronograph models in a steadily growing array of sizes, materials, and colorways, Breitling’s seaworthy fleet offers a sporty option for just about everyone. Here is a brief history of the Superocean and a guide to the modern collection. 1957: Ref. 1004 Diver and Ref. 807 Chronograph The launch of the original Superocean, Breitling’s first purpose-built divers’ watch, in 1957, was timed to commemorate 25 years at the helm of the company for Willy Breitling, the only son of founder Gaston Breitling and the inventor of such enduring classics as the Chronomat and Navitimer. Commercially, it was also driven by the growing popularity of scuba diving as a hobby and the subsequent market desire for wristwatches that could be worn underwater. Several of that genre’s p...

Selling Points that Don’t Sell Me: Spec Snobbery Worn & Wound
Mar 27, 2024

Selling Points that Don’t Sell Me: Spec Snobbery

If I were to make a gross oversimplification of watches, I’d say they are about three things: provenance, design and specs. The first two are relatively straightforward: Who made a watch, and what does it look like? There are endless rabbit holes to go down with each, and fellow enthusiasts welcome anyone looking to join the conversations. That’s good news for those of us that long ago lost the privilege to ramble about Hans Wilsdorf at the dinner table, and have a limited number of times we can say “concentric circles” before our non-watch friends tune out. But in my initial years of collecting, I shied away from conversations of provenance and design, instead favoring talk of specs. Above all else, specs were what sold me. It’s a trend I’ve noticed fellow enthusiasts follow, which makes sense. Specs are tangible. They are indisputable facts on paper that immediately give an idea of how a watch will wear based on its dimensions, what its beat rate will be, how much abuse its crystal can take, and at what unnecessary depth of water it could out-live its wearer. With some welcome influence from my favorite YouTube reviewers, it was easy as a new collector to discern what specs were considered acceptable by the larger enthusiast community. While we may never agree on which case diameter constitutes the ideal “sweet spot” (but we all know it’s 36-38mm) or what movement is best, one specification seemed to have near universal support in the comment sections: ...

Citizen Expands their Series 8 Collection with Three New References, Including a Cherry Blossom Inspired Limited Edition Worn & Wound
Citizen Expands their Series 8 Mar 27, 2024

Citizen Expands their Series 8 Collection with Three New References, Including a Cherry Blossom Inspired Limited Edition

Last week, we told you about new offerings from Citizen in their high end “The Citizen” collection, which can be thought of, I think, as the brand at its most refined. These are the watches where no expense is spared, and they make full use of the craft techniques available to them and some pretty impressive high accuracy quartz timekeeping. Right on the heels of those Washi paper dialed releases, Citizen has also expanded their Series 8 collection, which is perhaps a more familiar expression of what Citizen has always done really well to the typical enthusiast. These are integrated bracelet sports watches that borrow from the past (as all integrated bracelet sports watches do), while still feeling quite contemporary with a modern footprint, interesting dial designs, and the specs you’d expect in a modern sports watch.  Two of the new Series 8 890 watches seen here feature the same checkered pattern (inspired by the Tokyo skyline) that Citizen used on the previous 880 series watches that were introduced last year, but they’ve taken steps to make the pattern appear bolder in these new releases. From the images provided, it does indeed appear to be a deeper and more pronounced stamping, which should make for a dynamic experience on the wrist as the dial plays with ambient light.  A third watch, limited to 1700 pieces, has a new dial execution in what Citizen calls a “copper pink” color, and is inspired by cherry blossoms in bloom. Like the ocean and mountain vi...

Breitling Unleashes A Slew Of New Navitimers, Including An Automatic Cosmonaute Fratello
Breitling Unleashes Mar 27, 2024

Breitling Unleashes A Slew Of New Navitimers, Including An Automatic Cosmonaute

Not to let its recent Aerospace B70 Orbiter hog the spotlight, Breitling is also unveiling a plethora of new Navitimers. Curiously, only one of these Navis is a chronograph, and it’s in the form of the limited-edition self-winding 18K red gold Cosmonaute. Considering there are nine other watches (double that with strap variants) without a […] Visit Breitling Unleashes A Slew Of New Navitimers, Including An Automatic Cosmonaute to read the full article.

Studio Underd0g spills the secret sauce of their success Time+Tide
Furlan Marri Baltic Mar 27, 2024

Studio Underd0g spills the secret sauce of their success

Editor’s note: Back in January, many of you joined us in our Time+Tide Discovery Studio in Melbourne to celebrate our tenth anniversary. It was a week full of celebrations, events, and even three exclusive launches from three of the most respected microbrands in the game: Furlan Marri, Baltic, and Studio Underd0g. Unfortunately, not everyone was … ContinuedThe post Studio Underd0g spills the secret sauce of their success appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Fratello Editors Share Their Five-Watch Collections: Thomas’s Picks From Rolex, Omega, Panerai, And VPC Fratello
Panerai Mar 27, 2024

Fratello Editors Share Their Five-Watch Collections: Thomas’s Picks From Rolex, Omega, Panerai, And VPC

When Morgan accidentally started the #fivewatchcollection trend on Instagram, I wasn’t planning on sharing mine. Until the concept crossed over to Fratello, that is. You can gauge my social media trendiness by my tardiness to this game, but here I am nonetheless! These are the five watches in my collection that currently form its backbone. […] Visit Fratello Editors Share Their Five-Watch Collections: Thomas’s Picks From Rolex, Omega, Panerai, And VPC to read the full article.

First Look – The New and Accessible Depancel Allure Automatic Chronograph (incl. Video) Monochrome
Mar 26, 2024

First Look – The New and Accessible Depancel Allure Automatic Chronograph (incl. Video)

French brand Depancel has a distinct automotive-inspired approach to watchmaking, which starts with its name. The name Depancel is derived from Delage, Panhard and Facel Vega, three of the most respected French car manufacturers. With such a backstory, it’s not hard to figure out what Depancel loves to do most; build car- and motorcycle-inspired watches! […]

Introducing The Czapek Antarctique Mount Erebus In Both Rose And Yellow Gold Fratello
Czapek Antarctique Mount Erebus Mar 26, 2024

Introducing The Czapek Antarctique Mount Erebus In Both Rose And Yellow Gold

After it debuted in 2020, the Antarctique quickly became Czapek’s best-selling watch. And what do you do as a brand when one of your watches becomes a success? That’s right; you make different versions of it. However, that’s easier said than done. There’s a serious risk that a not-so-successful version will harm the good image […] Visit Introducing The Czapek Antarctique Mount Erebus In Both Rose And Yellow Gold to read the full article.

Introducing: The Chronoswiss Strike Two Golden Gear And H2O Fratello
Chronoswiss Mar 26, 2024

Introducing: The Chronoswiss Strike Two Golden Gear And H2O

With Watches and Wonders 2024 just around the corner, it’s time to let the releases begin! Today, we have news of two new Chronoswiss watches. The Strike Two Golden Gear and the Strike Two H2O are meant to pave a new direction for the brand. There’s no denying these are Chronoswiss watches, but look closely, […] Visit Introducing: The Chronoswiss Strike Two Golden Gear And H2O to read the full article.

Introducing – Arnold & Son Enters the Integrated Sports Watch Game with the Longitude Titanium Monochrome
Arnold & Son Mar 26, 2024

Introducing – Arnold & Son Enters the Integrated Sports Watch Game with the Longitude Titanium

No brand, it seems, is immune to the allure of the luxury sports watch, sporty-chic watches with integrated bracelets. The latest brand to dip its toe into the highly infested luxury sports watch waters is Arnold & Son, which introduces its first integrated sports watch at Watches and Wonders 2024. Christened the Longitude in honour […]

Longines Updates the HydroConquest GMT with a New 43mm Option Worn & Wound
Longines Updates Mar 25, 2024

Longines Updates the HydroConquest GMT with a New 43mm Option

Last year, Longines had something of an unexpected hit with their HydroConquest GMT. The dive watch with the “flyer” L844.5 caliber was much discussed in enthusiast circles, and I have my own personal theory as to why. For years, Longines has excelled at being expert curators of their own back catalog, releasing a seemingly never ending string of well considered vintage reissues important releases from their past. They never stopped making watches in a more contemporary style, but they kind of dropped out of focus in recent years. The HydroConquest overhaul, then, was somewhat unexpected, and really stood out in their collection. And it was just weird enough to set itself apart from a market full of divers that kind of all look alike. Now, less than a year after the new HydroConquest saw the light of day, Longines has added new additions to the collection, which surprise in another way altogether.  Announced last week, Longines now makes the HydroConquest GMT in a new larger size, with a case coming in at 43mm. When I saw the press release for this watch, I did a double take. Was there a typo here somewhere? The trend in recent years, Rolex notwithstanding, has been for brands to downsize their sport models to a more universally accepted “medium” size. Think anywhere between 38-40mm. With last year’s HydroConquest GMT coming in at 41mm, I’d have bet the lion’s share of my watch fund that the next iteration of this watch would be somewhere in that sub 40mm ra...

First Look – The New Speake-Marin Ripples Infinity Date Monochrome
Speake-Marin Mar 25, 2024

First Look – The New Speake-Marin Ripples Infinity Date

Speake-Marin‘s response to the ongoing craze for luxury sports watches with integrated bracelets came from the Ripples collection, unveiled in 2022. Its debut garnered a mixed reception, as is customary in today’s critical landscape. However, the watch emerged as refreshingly original, staying true to the brand’s roots while incorporating signature Speake-Marin twists that captivate attention. […]

Introducing: The Girard-Perregaux Laureato Chronograph Ti49 Fratello
Girard-Perregaux Laureato Chronograph Ti49 Mar 25, 2024

Introducing: The Girard-Perregaux Laureato Chronograph Ti49

The Girard-Perregaux Laureato is one of the OG integrated-bracelet sports watches from the ’70s - 1975, to be precise. This means the model turns 50 years old next year. I am sure this will be celebrated with new additions to the collection, but we don’t have to wait until then. Girard-Perregaux is introducing a new […] Visit Introducing: The Girard-Perregaux Laureato Chronograph Ti49 to read the full article.

Hands-On With The Louis Vuitton Escale Cabinet Of Wonders Collection Fratello
Louis Vuitton Escale Cabinet Mar 25, 2024

Hands-On With The Louis Vuitton Escale Cabinet Of Wonders Collection

For this eccentric collection of watches honoring Gaston-Louis Vuitton, the brand enlisted an impressive lineup of artisans for the job. The Escale Cabinet of Wonders is a trilogy consisting of Koi’s Garden, Snake’s Jungle, and Dragon’s Cloud. All three watches pay homage to Louis Vuitton’s grandson Gaston-Louis, who held a role in the company from […] Visit Hands-On With The Louis Vuitton Escale Cabinet Of Wonders Collection to read the full article.

Masterpieces from the Met for the Wrist by Vacheron Constantin SJX Watches
Vacheron Constantin Having announced Mar 25, 2024

Masterpieces from the Met for the Wrist by Vacheron Constantin

Having announced a partnership with The Metropolitan Museum of Art last year, Vacheron Constantin has just launched Masterpiece on Your Wrist, a programme that offers the opportunity to commission timepieces featuring enamel dials that replicate select artworks from the Met’s collection in a wristwatch created by Les Cabinotiers, the watchmaker’s workshop for custom and bespoke watches. A client could commission Vincent van Gogh’s Wheat Field with Cypresses as a minute repeater for instance. Naturally, clients who commission such a timepiece will receive more than a watch. The process includes a private tour of the Met and a visit to Vacheron Constantin’s Geneva manufacture. Wheat Field with Cypresses Initial thoughts Geneva’s important watchmakers, namely Vacheron Constantin and its crosstown rival, have long reproduced important works of art on wrist (or pocket) watch dials. In the late 20th century, Suzanne Rohr famously replicated various classical European artworks in miniature enamel. And more recently, Anita Porchet recreated Vermeer’s Girl with a Pearl Earring on the monumental Les Cabinotiers Westminster Sonnerie commissioned by a noted Asian collector. Masterpiece on Your Wrist is a continuation and formalisation of that historical practice that also allows privileged access to one of the world’s most noted museums. For an art lover, this is quite the opportunity. Bridge over a Pond of Water Lilies by Claude Monet Granted, most of the artworks in th...