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Monochrome
Following a drastic change of strategy in recent years, Louis Vuitton‘s watchmaking division is being primed to become a serious player. As part of the new strategy, Arnault has taken the flagship Tambour watch, launched in 2002, and revisited it as a luxury sports watch, while the Louis Vuitton Escale was reintroduced as a time-only […]
Time+Tide
Unique pieces in unique case materials are the topic of ArtyA's latest chronograph release, the Gears collection.The post The ArtyA Gears collection brings bespoke, unique pieces for under $20k appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
To mark founder Michel Parmigiani’s 74th birthday, Parmigiani Fleurier created the L’Armoriale Répétition Mystérieuse, a minute repeater without a tangible time indication on the face. Instead, the enamelled, guilloché dial on the front is purely decorative, with the repeater to tell the time on the wrist. But there is the time on the back of the watch thanks to a pair of discreet, peripheral hands. Initial thoughts Among the many complications, the minute repeater is one of my favourites. The beauty of a minute repeater lies in its acoustic time indication, which makes hands redundant in some ways. The L’Armoriale Répétition Mystérieuse takes this concept to its logical conclusion in a gorgeously executed manner. The elaborate dial and case, however, result in the watch being very large, big enough that it loses some of the refinement and details present in a smaller case. Several notable artisans contributed to the watch, including Vanessa Lecci for the enamelling. The movement was supplied by Renaud & Papi, which is a fine, high-end movement but it’s a bit of a shame that Parmigiani didn’t utilise one of its in-house repeater calibres. A fascinating complication Like many historical Parmigiani models, the styling of the L’Armoriale Répétition Mystérieuse is inspired by Ancient Greece. The fluted case middle is modelled on Doric columns, while the engine turning on the dial and the back are inspired by the Fibonacci sequence. It’s a large watch, w...
Worn & Wound
If you don’t get what you’re looking at, don’t worry. You’re not alone - in fact, that’s sort of the point. A quick glance at the new L’Armoriale Répétition Mystérieuse is more likely to incite questions than offer answers, but the latest masterpiece from Parmigiani Fleurier, timed to release last week in time for founder Michel Parmigiani’s birthday, presents us with a watch unlike anything we’ve seen from the brand in recent years. The general architecture of the watch will be familiar to those conversant in Parmigiani’s chosen language - the straight squared-off lugs and pastel pallet are reminiscent of the Toric watches released earlier this year - but it won’t take long to realize that there’s something fairly significant missing from the celebratory watch: a dial. The Armoriale Répétition Mystérieuse is also the latest entry in a series of Minute Repeater wristwatches to deliberately de-emphasize the visible display of time we’re all so used to. Recent examples of this trick have come from H. Moser & Cie., whose Swiss Alp Watch Concept Black opted for a clean Vantablack dial with nothing but a visible tourbillon; and Biver, whose 2023 OnlyWatch entry replaced its visible dial with a beautiful scene rendered in stone marquetry. But just because we’ve seen versions of this before, doesn’t mean the impact is any lessened here. In fact, this implementation is among the best I’ve encountered, and more than holds its own, while a...
Time+Tide
From the mind of internationally acclaimed designer Zach Raven, this intriguing minimalist watch offers space-age looks at a reasonable price.The post The RVNDSGN M1 is a welcome challenge to assumptions about minimalism appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Continuing the development of scaled-down versions of its signature wristwatch, Ressence unveils the Type 9. Characterised by a 39 mm titanium case – the smallest model in the brand’s current catalogue – the Type 9 is similar to the Type 8 in being a time-only displaying just hours and minutes, with no seconds. In a first for the brand, the minute scale has been repositioned from the dial to the fixed bezel that now sports a five-minute scale. Initial thoughts The Type 9 is a logical evolution of the brand’s entry-level model that retains the trademark “planetary” time display but in a smaller, simpler format. With a diameter of only 39 mm and short lugs, the Type 9 is more wearable. Though the Type 9 is the most affordable watch in the line-up, the new model does not compromise on aesthetics, maintaining the distinctive look and feel. Priced at CHF12,500, the Type 9 is CHF1,000 less expensive than the next-most-affordable model, the Type 8. For me, it is an ideal Ressence wristwatch that combines a perfect proportions with affordability. Arguably the only downside of the Type 9 is that it adds to the ever-growing catalogue of fairly similar models. The overlap between the Types 8 and 9 are obvious and possibly confusing. Perfect size In traditional Ressence style, the case of the Type 9 has no crown. Instead time-setting and manual winding of the movement is done by rotating the case back. Due to its construction, the case is only water resistant to 10 m, “s...
SJX Watches
Patek Philippe had an active 2024, not just because of the launch of the ref. 5330G World Time with Date, a massive collection of Rare Handcrafts, and of course the Cubitus. But equally notable was the announcement of updates to the Patek Philippe Seal. Buried on the last page of its 2024 Watches & Wonders brochure was some fine print about some updates to the brand’s internal certification that superseded the longstanding Poinçon de Genève in 2009. The updates applied to two things that watch enthusiasts love to argue about: water resistance and rate accuracy. Officially rated to 30 m and -1/+2 seconds a day Initial thoughts Water resistance is never far from the minds of watch geeks, so it’s no surprise that this is dominated the discourse when the announcement was made earlier in the year; the idea of a Nautilus rated to just 30 m was concerning to many. Apparently even the fact that the watch itself was unchanged did little to quiet the nerves. Perhaps because people enjoy the opportunity to punch up, far more attention was paid to the issue of water resistance than the meaningful updates made to timekeeping testing and certification, which cement Patek Philippe’s position as the leader in high-end mechanical timekeeping at scale. The cal. 240 PS CI J LU of the Cubitus ref. 5822P also features a Spiromax hairspring, clearly visible Thirty meters But let’s get water resistance out of the way. Patek Philippe now guarantees all of its water-resistant watches to ...
Time+Tide
This week saw a whole host of releases from every corner of the industry as we enter the final month of the year and gift buying starts to ramp up.The post New releases from Parmigiani Fleurier, MB&F;, Zenith and more appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
Japan is heralded as a place for amazing vintage watches and red-hot independent brands. But where does Japan's love of watches come from? The post What influence do Japanese collectors still have on the industry? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
The second watch launched by Biver, the Automatique is a three-hand time-only, functionally simple but elaborately executed. Even the base model has a surprisingly complex dial, but the Automatique is really all about the JCB-003 movement, which is a micro-rotor calibre that ranks up there as one of most impressive recent self-winding movements. Established by Jean-Claude Biver and his son Pierre, Biver got its start with a far more complicated watch, but the Automatique is arguably more impressive because it’s a simple watch executed in a complicated yet cohesive manner. The JCB-003 Initial thoughts Yet another time-only watch with a dressed up movement and hefty price tag – the formula feels a little worn out now. So the Biver Automatique surprises on the upside. I like it. The design is appealing and cohesive, while the movement is impressive. In contrast, when Biver debuted with the Carillon Tourbillon minute repeater, I thought “the quality is unmistakeable, the aesthetics are lacking”. The Automatique lives up to the same levels of quality – and maybe even more – but it is instinctively appealing, even considering the price. The solid gold dial of the entry-level version in rose gold Even though Biver is not an artisanal independent brand in the conventional sense of the word since neither of its founders are watchmakers, the JCB-003 movement is executed to a standard that equals many artisanal independents. The construction is thoughtful and sophisticate...
Time+Tide
Christopher Ward enters the world of retail for the first time exclusively at the Time+Tide London Discovery Studio. The post You can now buy Christopher Ward in our London Watch Discovery Studio! appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
We delve into the famed certification of high-end watches, but also figure out whether the Geneva Seal actually matters.The post What is the Geneva Seal, and should you care about it? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Worn & Wound
I’m a pandemic-era watch enthusiast. Stuck inside along with the rest of the world, I found myself with an unusual amount of time on my hands in the spring of 2020. My interest in watches had been passing at best, reflected in my recent purchase of a quartz Citizen dress watch that, looking back, was likely the most generic version of a bland 3 handed watch available on the entire internet. It was this office-inspired watch (which I was not even allowed to wear to the now-shuttered office) that probably led YouTube’s algorithm to throw a watch review into the mix as it attempted to entertain me for hours on end. Imagine my surprise when my former coworker and Worn and Wound’s own Zach Kazan was on my screen, talking about the water resistance and case diameter of a Seiko. And just like that, I stumbled into an engaged group of local collectors that were more than happy to get a newbie like me up to speed. Sure, it felt like the world was on fire, but at least I had a new hobby and community to distract me as it burned. Stories similar to mine were playing out all over the world as a new wave of enthusiasts used an influx of time (and sometimes money) to give themselves self-curated crash courses in horology. For those of this cohort that still spend their free time reading watch blogs, it’s been a wild ride. We witnessed (and perhaps fueled) the rise of hype culture, the skyrocketing of prices, the divisive power of a plastic Speedmaster and the advent of not one...
Time+Tide
The newly minted CEO of Hublot looks to enact change at the brand by being hands-on and getting stuck in as much as possible. The post Julien Tornare is getting hands on at Hublot appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
One of Germany's most underrated watchmakers has gone for a particularly sporty take on a GADA watch.The post Mühle-Glashütte’s new Sportivo collection aims for sophisticated sporty versatility appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Worn & Wound
When IWC launched an updated version of their Ingenieur at Watches & Wonders 2023, it was a moment that many observers of the brand had been anticipating for years. After years spent building up their Pilot collection, there was a sense in the community that some of their sportier offerings were being ignored. It was only a matter of time, we all assumed, before the Ingenieur or perhaps the Aquatimer received an overhaul and the same type of years-long collection rehab as the beloved Pilot. It’s a little curious, then, that things in the Ingenieur collection have been somewhat quiet for so long. No additional complications, case materials, or even dial variants have been launched outside of the core lineup until the announcement of the new blue Ingenieur this week. The new dial in blue paired with a stainless steel case and bracelet joins the black, silver, and “Aqua” dials as well as the still rarely seen gray titanium version. It fills out the collection nicely and you would be forgiven for thinking it already existed. It’s not a revolutionary update or anything as these things go, but merely provides collectors with another option – a fundamentally good thing in our view. It’s interesting to consider the place of the Ingenieur in today’s watch world over a year removed from its reintroduction. This watch is a fascinating case study in the “it’s too expensive” climate of hot takes about literally any new watch that’s introduced. It’s become so...
Deployant
Once upon a time, the name Patek Philippe was synonymous with the Calatrava, complications, old money, class, and elegance, among other things. These are aspects that still form the core of what Patek Philippe is today, but we do also live in a rapidly changing world. The brand has been immensely keen to appeal itselfRead More
Fratello
During Watches and Wonders this year, the world learned about Angelus’s marvelous monopusher chronograph, the Instrument de Vitesse. Now, I must admit, I got a sneak peek of the watch last year. That was the first time I could handle it, and it exceeded my expectations. At the time, one could choose between ebony- and […] Visit Hands-On With The Angelus Instrument De Vitesse Indianapolis Blue to read the full article.
Monochrome
Once upon a time, antique timepiece restorer and master watchmaker Michel Parmigiani was encouraged by the Sandoz family to create a manufacture. Known as Parmigiani Fleurier, the fully independent manufacture produced exquisite high-end watches, over thirty in-house movements and fascinating table clocks equipped with automata. With the arrival of CEO Guido Terreni in 2021, the […]
Fratello
Watches can be striking in different ways. The Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Hybris Mechanica Calibre 362 and the Parmigiani Fleurier L’Armoriale Répétition Mystérieuse are striking watches that sound the time on demand. The Bremont Terra Nova 38 “Pink” is a field watch that steps out of its comfort zone with an unexpected, striking pink dial. You’ve seen […] Visit Striking In Different Ways: Minute Repeaters From Jaeger-LeCoultre And Parmigiani Fleurier Plus A Banging Pink-Dialed Bremont to read the full article.
Time+Tide
An updated version of the Norwegian brand's original stellar offering, the Satellite Ground Station II offers out-of-this-world value. The post The Áigi Satellite Ground Station II is a Nordic nod to our connection with space appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Teddy Baldassarre
The Seiko SSK GMT line has slowly taken the watch world by storm, and Seiko took the SKX-style format this year and updated it with a trio of new dial formats. Earlier this year, I wrote a story on what – at the time – was every single existing SKX-style Seiko SSK GMT on the market, but that story is officially out of date. Before I get any further into this, it makes sense to establish a few things about these watches. First, they were released in 2022, creating a new wave of GMT affordability in the watch world. Why do I keep calling them SKX-style watches? Well, because the case profile is nearly identical to that of the now-discontinued icon, the Seiko SKX. The Seiko SSK001 and 003 models (the blue- and black-dial versions) are watches that I often suggest to anyone looking for a true "everyday" attainable watch. I even chose it in a video I did with Teddy where we both were tasked with building a collection under $7,000 ( let me know if you think I won). But enough lede-burying. Let’s get to the newness. In total there were three new variations released: The SSK033 with a blue and black bezel, the SSK035 with a green dial and bezel format, and the SSK036, which brings a black/brown aesthetic to the mix with a leather strap (the other two come on Jubilee-style bracelets). So let’s start with the SSK033. As an owner of the Rolex GMT-Master II with the blue-and-black bezel, I immediately zeroed in on this one. But where this clearly differs from the Rolex in term...
Worn & Wound
It’s finally Black Friday, and we’re in full swing here at the Windup Watch Shop. There’s no better time to save with nearly the entire shop featuring discounts, including some products that never go on sale. Best of all, with each purchase you make, you’re eligible to earn 5 Points on every dollar spent. It’s finally Black Friday, and we’re in full swing here at the Windup Watch Shop. There’s no better time to save with nearly the entire shop featuring discounts, including some products that never go on sale. Best of all, with each purchase you make, you’re eligible to earn 5 Points on every dollar spent. The post Deep Discounts, A Free Watch Case, And More Ways To Save appeared first on Worn & Wound.
![[VIDEO] Review: Citizen’s “The Citizen” Reference AQ4103-16E](https://wornandwound.com/library/uploads/2024/11/Citizen_TheCitizen_2.jpg)
Worn & Wound
Here’s a thing I’ve come to realize about watches writing about them for five years. Most of them are exactly fine. They have some good qualities and some bad, but they tend to cancel each other out, resulting in something that’s perfectly acceptable and adequate but maybe not great. Truly exceptional watches are rare. Watches with no obvious faults, watches that make you rethink a brand, a technology, or your own taste. These are the watches I love to write about the most and I jump at the chance to do so. I’m not saying the Citizen “The Citizen” reference AQ4103-16E is a perfect watch without any faults, but I’m not not saying it either. It’s certainly exceptional by just about any measure, and it’s literally quite rare. And if you’ve never been exposed to a watch from the upper tier of Citizen’s range, it could certainly cause you to rethink the brand, but the good stuff at the high end of Citizen’s catalog has been an open secret for long enough that if you claim not to know much about it, well, you should probably just read Worn & Wound more often. Kidding aside, this iteration of The Citizen really did blow me away when I had a chance to sample it recently. It does so many things so well, it’s pretty tough to ignore. Citizen has worked hard over the last few years to expand their offerings in the The Citizen lineup, and I think they’ve done a pretty good job of communicating what makes this collection special to the larger watch public...
Monochrome
Two years after introducing the Type 8, its most minimalist time-only watch, Belgian independent watchmaker Ressence expands the concept with the launch of the new Type 9. Like all Ressence creations, the latest model incorporates the brand’s patented ROCS (Ressence Orbital Convex System) display module, with time indicated via revolving sub-dials – the so-called “beyond […]
Worn & Wound
I feel like every time I look at Czapek, they’re doing something great. This time, they’ve released a new limited variant of the Antarctique, the Antarctique Purple Storm, with an otherworldly purple dial produced by Swiss dial maker Metalem. The Antarctique has been one of the great success stories of the indie watch world in recent years, and Czapek has managed to iterate on the watch beautifully, offering up a consistent stream of new and interesting executions on the model without losing any of what makes it so compelling. This latest release pairs a familiar steel execution of the independent brand’s signature integrated bracelet sports watch, with a new version of the hand-varnished dial first seen in the 10-piece limited edition Antarctique Orion Nebula. While that watch was meant to evoke very specifically the look of galactic bodies in astral photography, almost looking like it could have come straight from the Webb telescope, more recent implementations of the technique have had a more lava-lamp-like quality; ethereal and non-corporeal. The Purple Storm fits into the latter group presenting onlookers with colors ranging from dark blacks to vibrant purples and every shade in between. Each of the 18 dials in this series is completely unique, and the celestial-inspired dials are entirely sterile - though the Czapek logo is present, it looks to be printed on the underside of the sapphire crystal (an increasingly common, but nonetheless appealing technique). ...
Monochrome
Next year marks the 50th anniversary of the iconic Laureato, first introduced by Girard-Perregaux in 1975. Its distinctive design-centred around a tonneau-shaped case, slim, raised octagonal bezel with circular plinth, and integrated bracelet-has evolved over decades while remaining true to the original spirit, a tradition upheld by the latest releases. The two new time-only Laureato […]
Time+Tide
Your watch is not always worth what you think. Depending on how you sell your watch, you might be surprised how much of the premium you see.The post Where and how you sell your watch matters, and this is why appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Fratello
Recent auctions in Geneva concluded with a relative bang. Eye-watering results occurred for some truly rare pieces. For many watches, though, the sales were solid but not awe-inspiring. I’ll kick off today’s article with my thoughts on the market, and then we’ll look at several lots. My colleague Lex recently penned an article about the […] Visit The November 2024 Geneva Auctions Retrospective - Highlights to read the full article.
Time+Tide
Sold at a charity auction, this Nautilus 5711/1500A in engraved stainless steel is officially the most expensive Nautilus of all time.The post An engraved Patek Philippe Nautilus sells for CHF 6.7 million, setting a new world record appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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