Hodinkee
Legendary Casemaker Jean-Pierre Hagmann Passes Away: 1940 – 2025
With a career spanning Patek Philippe to Rexhep Rexhepi, Hagmann left an indelible mark on more than just his cases.
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Hodinkee
With a career spanning Patek Philippe to Rexhep Rexhepi, Hagmann left an indelible mark on more than just his cases.
Worn & Wound
I recently visited the Aristo Vollmer watch and bracelet manufacturer in the Black Forest town of Pforzheim. Aristo-Vollmer was founded 14 years ago as a merger of two well-known companies from the towns of Birkenfeld and Pforzheim. After three generations in the possession of the founding Epple family, the watch manufacturer Aristo Watch was sold in 1998 to Hansjörg Vollmer, a member of the founding family of watch bracelet manufacturer Vollmer, which has been associated with Aristo since 1927. Hansjörg Vollmer is a grandson of the founder of the metal bracelet manufactory Vollmer (Vollmer, Evvo, New Line), which was founded in 1922 and had maintained business relations with Aristo since 1927. After World War II, the production of bracelets moved from Birkenfeld to Pforzheim where it is still located next to the Pforzheim train station. Since 2005, the Aristo-Vollmer’s portfolio includes watch brands (Aristo, Aristomatic, Aristocrat, Messerschmitt, Vollmer, Bellana, Aristella, and Erbprinz) as well as bracelets (stainless steel, titanium, carbon), buckles, and deployant clasps. The bracelets are used for its own watch brands, and supplied to retailers, as well as outside the group. Recently Aristo added Klaus Jakob’s Jacques Etoile brand, which we’ll come back to a little later. Hansjörg is an intriguing personality, very driven yet approachable. He is a high-speed fanatic and professionally races BMW motorcycles, and even custom builds them upon request. I att...
Fratello
Honest question: why do people like the Sky-Dweller? Is it because the travel watch with the Saros annual calendar and Ring Command is a complicated piece of watchmaking? Is it the characteristic dial layout, perhaps? Or is it because if you wear this 42mm watch in precious metal, everybody within a hundred-meter radius will know […] Visit Trying To Get Airborne With The Rolex Sky-Dweller In Yellow And Everose Gold On A Jubilee Bracelet to read the full article.
Fratello
What would happen if you started working out in 1969? How would you look today? Well, if you were a watch, you would probably look like the 42mm Zenith Defy Skyline Chronograph Skeleton. When the athletic Defy A3642 came to life 56 years ago, the watch, with its muscular octagonal case and chiseled tetradecagonal (14-sided) […] Visit Hands-On With The Zenith Defy Skyline Chronograph Skeleton to read the full article.
Fratello
Our managing editor, Nacho, asked us to choose our favorite vintage watches under €5K. First, we need to define what “vintage” means. There is no clear universal definition in the watch industry, but the Fondation de la Haute Horlogerie once used 20 years or older as a guideline. To some purists, a vintage needs to […] Visit Fratello Favorites: The Best Vintage Watches Under €5K - RJ’s Picks From Heuer, Breitling, Omega, and Rolex to read the full article.
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SJX Watches
The flagship watch of Breitling’s best-known watch, the Navitimer B19 Perpetual Calendar Chronograph is now more affordable. The latest iteration with an “ice blue” dial retains the specs of the pink gold 140th anniversary edition launched last year, but trades precious metal for steel. Unlike last year’s limited edition, the new steel model is regular production and is priced under US$30,000, over Breitling’s traditional sweet spot on the price spectrum but still half the retail of the anniversary edition. Breitling Navitimer B19 Chronograph 43 Perpetual Calendar_Ref. PB1920251C1P1_RGB Initial thoughts The new Navitimer B19 keeps it affordable, relatively speaking, by combining Breitling’s excellent in-house B01 movement with the tried-and-tested Dubois Depraz perpetual calendar module. The resulting watch is thick at almost 15 mm high, but combines several complications in Breitling’s iconic slide-rule pilot’s chronograph. While the watch is pricier than most of Breitling’s offerings, it is one of the few perpetual calendar chronographs in this price range. Most of such watches tend to be a lot more expensive, although Austrian independent watchmaker Habring² offers similar for less in keeping with its focus on affordable complications. Value proposition The new B19 retains the same basic specs as its precious metal counterpart. The stainless steel case measures 43 mm in diameter and 14.94 mm in thickness. Water-resistant to 30 m, it features the Navit...
Time+Tide
To mark the launch of the first production piece from Anoma, we had the British watch community in our London Discovery Studio.The post We held Anoma’s first major event to launch the A1 Slate, and this is what happened appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
A mechanical digital watch is borderline oxymoronic, but here are some of the best mechanical watches that digitally display the time.The post 8 of the best mechanical digital watches to toe the line appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Two Broke Watch Snobs
The Seiko SKX173 is sometimes overshadowed by its more sought-after sister, the SKX007, but it remains a highly capable dive watch that offers a different dial while maintaining the same rugged dependability. With its distinct dial design and ISO-certified durability, the SKX173 has long been a favorite among enthusiasts.
Time+Tide
Casio celebrates International Women’s Day, Anoma releases its second-ever watch and King Seiko unveils a new flagship collection.The post New releases from Anoma, Ming, Casio G-Shock and more appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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Fratello
The Citizen Tsuyosa lineup has always impressed us as an absolute sweet spot in the market. I struggle to think of any watch offering more for the price. The Tsuyosa collection, then, can make you think twice about anything fancier. So what if you want all of that but in a more classical, elegant size? […] Visit Hands-On With The New Citizen Tsuyosa 37mm - A Sweet Spot In The Market Is Now Also A Sweet Spot In Size to read the full article.
Fratello
When Ollech & Wajs released the C-1000 A, I knew I had to spend some time with it. This watch is an interesting one that pays homage to the brand’s groundbreaking Caribbean 1000 from 1964. Ollech & Wajs is a brand that does not enter the mainstream conversation much, which is a shame because there’s […] Visit Hands-On With The Ollech & Wajs C-1000 A to read the full article.
Time+Tide
GS opens its second boutique in Australia in The Block Arcade on Melbourne's Collins Street, the main vein of Aussie watch culture.The post Grand Seiko opens a luxurious new Melbourne boutique, a statement of intent from the Japanese brand appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Fratello
Another Friday, another list! This week, we’re highlighting the best pre-Daytona Rolex chronographs. While most watch fans know of such models’ existence, it’s not something we focus on often. This is for obvious reasons. The legacy of the Daytona has become one of the industry’s greatest success stories, so that is where the focus is. […] Visit Fratello’s Top 5 Pre-Daytona Rolex Chronographs to read the full article.
Fratello
Are you attending the 2025 British Watchmakers’ Day in London tomorrow? If so, I guess you already have your ticket ready because the ones for club members and the general public are all sold out. I considered attending the event this year, and that was mainly because of the Gimlet, a very attractive special-edition watch […] Visit Our Favorite Special-Edition Watches At The 2025 British Watchmakers’ Day to read the full article.
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Fratello
I need gold. My watch collection lacks precious metal, so with that in mind, I started looking for gold watches on a budget of €5K. Please enjoy my gold choices from Audemars Piguet, IWC, and Minerva. And yes, my colleagues told me I cheated by choosing the steel-cased Minerva, but I responded that the gold […] Visit Fratello Favorites: The Best Vintage Watches Under €5K - Lex’s Gold Picks From Audemars Piguet, IWC, And Minerva to read the full article.
SJX Watches
Drawn from a Russian fairy tale about a bun coming to life, the Kolobok 2 arrives a year after Konstantin Chaykin revealed the original Kolobok. Like its predecessors in the Wristmon collection, this features a dial inspired by the titular character’s face. But the Kolobok 2 marks a departure from the first version in two notable ways: it is now a regular production watch rather than a limited edition, and it features a La Joux-Perret base movement instead of an ETA. Initial thoughts The Kolobok 2 is the latest of many Wristmon models, arguably too many to date. However, the fact that this is a regular production model, as opposed to a limited edition, is a positive development since it indicates the brand is leaving behind the multiple-edition approach. That aside, the watch itself is an upgrade over earlier versions. Although the new Kolobok 2 has the same simple functions arranged as a face, it is powered by a new movement based on the La Joux-Perret G200, replacing the modified ETA 2892-A2 used in preceding entry-level Wristmon models. This calibre is a step forward for the Wristmon model. Amongst other things that put it ahead of the ETA 2892, the G200 sports a a full balance bridge with a free-sprung balance. Another wristmon The Kolobok 2 retains the same dimensions and technical specifications as its predecessors, measuring 40 mm in diameter and 12.2 mm in thickness. As with all Wristmons, it features a notched bezel with 12 screws and a case that’s predominan...
Fratello
Ask a random watch enthusiast about the great diving watches in history, and the Blancpain Fifty Fathoms will be on the tip of many tongues. In 2023, Blancpain celebrated the 70th anniversary of its legendary Fifty Fathoms in three acts. With a trio of completely different releases, the brand gave us a good idea of […] Visit Hands-On With The New Blancpain Fifty Fathoms Tech BOC IV to read the full article.
Worn & Wound
For most of my watch-buying life, fun dive watches have mostly been big dive watches. Colorful, loud, capable waterproof options have tended to correspond with case dimensions of equal impact and presence, while the sub-40mm dive watch space has belonged to relatively sedate interpretations of the classic dive watch formula - and even then, 39mm has been the sweet spot for ‘small’ divers. But over the last few release cycles (if those even exist anymore), we’ve started to see signs of a shift, and I can think of few better examples of this change than the Zenith Defy Revival Diver A3648, released last year as part of Zenith’s grand re-entry into the dive space. Last summer, I got to spend a few weeks with the Zenith Defy Revival Diver’s bigger, brasher brother, the Defy Extreme Diver, and I came away wildly impressed. The Defy Extreme Diver was a watch that punched way above its weight class (or at least its price point) while feeling like a genuinely novel take on a modern dive watch from a brand with shockingly little history in the space. So when I had the chance to spend some time with that watch’s vintage-inspired counterpart, I jumped. This extended visit with the Revival Diver wasn’t my first hands-on experience with the watch - I got to spend a few minutes with it when I went to pick up the Extreme Diver back in June - but on that day, I didn’t find myself particularly taken with the Revival. While I’ve long admired Zenith’s dual identity...
Worn & Wound
There are a number of watchmaking technologies that are tough to appreciate until you’ve actually spent considerable time with a watch. Grand Seiko’s Spring Drive comes to mind, especially if you’re inclined to constantly check your watch’s accuracy. The consistency over time of a Spring Drive movement is kind of mindblowing if you’re used to “normal” mechanical watches. Similarly, high accuracy quartz, from any brand, is tough to wrap your arms around until you’ve gone months without needing a reset because your watch is keeping time to within a second or two. And ultra-thin watches deserve a mention here as well. A watch that you literally forget you’re wearing because it’s so thin can be a special thing when properly executed. But in terms of actually making your day to day life easier, there are few technologies that match the practicality of solar powered timekeeping. There are a bunch of brands that offer watches with solar movements, and for some it’s really become their stock-in-trade. Today, Tissot expands their solar offerings with the new PRC 100 Solar collection, bringing an aging collection up to date with some modern tech that should have broad appeal to both the mass market and the most sensible, practical, enthusiasts among us. The PRC 100 was originally introduced in the mid 2000s and is easily identified by its dodecagonal bezel. PRC is an acronym that stands for “Precise, Robust, and Classic,” which seems like the right canv...
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SJX Watches
Having made its debut last summer, London-based Anoma returns with the A1 Slate, an entry level watch that punches above its weight in terms of design. Inspired by a triangular table designed in the 1950s by French designer Charlotte Perriand, the A1 Slate executes the mid-century aesthetic with aplomb. Over the past few years we’ve seen a number of unusually shaped watches come to market, perhaps as a cultural reaction to the proliferation of classical designs that otherwise dominate. Among these, the Anoma A1 stands out for its commitment to value and its undiluted form. Initial thoughts When the Anoma A1 debuted with the First Series, my first reaction was that it was simply a triangular watch. Closer examination revealed a number of intriguing details, like the offset rotation of the crystal relative to the case. The A1 Slate takes things up a notch, with an attractive grooved dial that brings the design to life. The A1 is all about its triangular stainless steel case, which is roughly 39 mm in diameter. The curved edges call to mind a Wankel rotory engine, and give the watch a pebble-like presence. A slim leather strap fits into hidden lugs, allowing the watch’s shape to remain undiluted. Like its predecessor, the A1 Slate is powered by the Sellita SW100, a diminutive automatic movement that was chosen for its ability to fit within the compact triangular case. The movement is common and industrial, which should give potential buyers confidence in its ability to be...
Deployant
We had a loaner of the new Citizen Attesa Eco-Drive Satellite Wave GPS for a couple of weeks, and here is our hands-on review of the watch.
Time+Tide
Anoma brings its second-ever watch to market, with a new dark grey dial colour, small changes to the case and an increase price.The post Anoma updates its shaped A1 with a new Slate dial, and we got our hands on it appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Hodinkee
The brand's latest limited edition dive watch supports a new marine research center in the Philippines.
Time+Tide
A blue-tinted sapphire dial, luminous rubber strap and thin proportions make this elevated dive watch an attractive beast.The post Christopher Ward’s azure C60 Sapphire Edge cuts a slim and stylish figure appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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