Two Broke Watch Snobs
Bremont Introduces The Broadsword Recon To Their Armed Forces Collection
Exploring the new Bremont Broadsword Recon featuring P51 lume and sandwich dial construction. Read for specs, pricing, and photos.
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Two Broke Watch Snobs
Exploring the new Bremont Broadsword Recon featuring P51 lume and sandwich dial construction. Read for specs, pricing, and photos.
Worn & Wound
It has been awhile since we’ve checked in on Depancel, an up and coming watch brand based out of the sleepy alpine town, Annecy, France. It was their Serie-A Allure that last caught our attention last year – a dual-register automatic chronograph heavy on the automotive design cues, which for the spry brand, was their first-ever production chronograph. Since then, it seems they’ve come a long way in a relatively short time. Depancel has expanded their collection, defined their design language (primarily auto-inspired), and now they even have a showroom (in Annecy) for those keen on seeing their collection in the metal. Despite the evolution, that doesn’t mean the brand has lost touch with the watch enthusiast community or their passion for all things automotive. Their new Legend 60s chronograph encompasses everything that has made the brand successful thus far. The brand has heard a growing number of requests from Depancel collectors and enthusiasts alike to return to their racing chronograph roots. Even though they’ve done away with their online questionnaire that allows for the community to directly make suggestions as to what they’d love to see from the brand, the Legend 60s chronograph proves that they firmly still have their ear to the ground. And what better way to return to their “racing chronograph roots” than to develop a watch inspired by the Formula One racing scene in the 1960s. The Legend 60s marks another first for the Depancel, and that com...
Time+Tide
Glashütte Original’s offering mainly comes in two forms – rugged, but finely finished pieces like the SeaQ, and contemporary works of art in the likes of their Senator and Pano collections. Available in a limited edition of 50 pieces, the Glashütte Original PanoInverse Limited Edition follows the biennial release of this special edition, and falls … ContinuedThe post The Glashütte Original 2023 PanoInverse Limited Edition brings an urban cityscape to the wrist appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Founded by watchmakers Gaël Petermann and Florian Bédat, Petermann Bédat made its debut with the 1967 powered by an elaborately finished movement featuring a deadbeat seconds. Now, the duo has just unveiled their next creation which is a step-up in complexity – the Reference 2941, a mono-pusher split-seconds chronograph. Presented in a 38 mm platinum case and limited to ten pieces, the 2941 follows the design language of the 1967 with a transparent dial and an emphasis on movement finishing. Initial thoughts The 2941 at a glance is a conceptually impressive release that meets the high expectations resulting from its previous release. But perhaps one may ponder over the under-dial execution of the split-seconds mechanism (as opposed to a traditional approach that puts it on the back). Undoubtedly, the finishing remains top notch. The movement sports numerous gracefully formed bridges and a notable emphasis on black-polished components. More broadly, it is uncommon to see a new chronograph movement designed from the ground up, even more so a rattrapante with an instantaneously jumping minute counter. That said, the movement architecture seems paradoxical. Part of the appeal of a finely-finished split-seconds chronograph is the intricate and layered view of the rattrapante mechanism on top of the chronograph seen through a display case back. Thus, Petermann Bedat’s approach of installing the split-seconds under the dial is questionable, particularly considering the n...
Time+Tide
The Nomos Club Campus is now available in Electric Green and Cream Coral. The new colours are available across both 36mm and 38.5mm sizes. It’s powered by Nomos’ in-house Alpha movement. The idea behind the Nomos Club Campus as a graduation watch marks it out as a unique and fitting gift, whether you’re buying it … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Nomos Club Campus Electric Green and Cream Coral appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
The long anticipated revival of Urwerk’s first model has finally arrived: the UR-102 “Reloaded” is modelled on the watch Urwerk presented at its debut Basel fair in 1997. The new UR-102 preserves the pebble-like form of the original but with enough tweaks to make it different, most notably with a larger case and revamped time display. The model makes it debut as a box set containing two UR-102s, one in titanium and the other all black. Initial thoughts I was looking forward to Urwerk’s revival of the UR-102. And I’m not disappointed with the result – except for the fact that it’s sold only as a pair. The “Reloaded” version is obviously modelled on the 1997 original, but it’s also clearly a different creation. For one, it’s larger and the time display has been redesigned. Add to that the restyled lugs and repositioned crown and you have a watch that’s very much distinct. In short, the new UR-102 is not a remake but a successful and appealing reinterpretation of the original. Leaving aside its origins, the UR-102 also has intrinsic appeal. It’s a clean, attractive design with sci-fi vibes. But the UR-102 is being sold as a pair – both identical save for the case finish – but subsequent versions will be sold individually, making them more accessible. Coming full circle At 41 mm the UR-102 “Reloaded” is noticeably larger than the 1997 original that was just 38 mm wide. The enlarged case retains the same streamlined outline that was inspired b...
Time+Tide
Since 1948, Yema has been producing reliable sports watches that come with a unique visual DNA. Best known for the Superman Heritage diver, Yema has been producing many types of chronographs over the past few decades. From Meca-Quartz to full automatic, the French brand releases a new collection every year, if not more often. Each … ContinuedThe post The new Yema Rallye 5 Turbo goes deep into French car racing appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Worn & Wound
Sometimes a brand will launch a new watch line to intense fanfare, and then seem to forget about it, letting it twist in the proverbial wind while diligently shoring up other more proven collections. It’s a big gamble to launch a new watch collection, and timing follow ups after a big introduction is an inexact science at best. Norqain, with the launch of the Wild One last fall, has taken an aggressive approach to getting the word about their new high end sports watch, with quick follow ups that expand the palate of what the Wild One can be, and rapidly familiarize the watch community with the new platform. The latest Wild One has a distinct aesthetic impact, and also serves to highlight a new Norqain partnership, all based around a location that is of genuine importance to the brand. The Wild One Zermatt Unplugged Special Edition celebrates Norqain’s involvement in the Zermatt Unplugged music festival, which occurs annually in the picturesque Swiss ski village at the base of the Matterhorn. Zermatt is also the location of Norqain’s flagship boutique, and as a center of outdoor sport it falls right in line with the brand’s bent towards adventure. To bolster their ties to the music festival, Norqain is offering a limited number of the new watches as part of a package that includes a two night stay in Zermatt during the festival along with a VIP ticket and a day of skiing with Olympic medalists Tina Weirather and Ramon Zenhäusern, who are also Norqain ambassadors....
Hodinkee
How one man revived a Swiss village through a focus on old-school craft and how we collect these over-the-top pieces today.
Hodinkee
New functionality (including a bi-directional bezel) and clean design bring a quiet grace to the Spirit line.
Hodinkee
Forget the bagel with lox, what the people really wanted was MB&F; to put salmon on steel.
Worn & Wound
Last week, news of the latest marquee lot to go under the hammer via Phillips broke across watch media. The phrase “historically significant” is often used to describe high profile vintage watches that go up for auction, but very few actually feel truly historic. I would argue that this particular Patek Philippe, a watch that once belonged to Aisin-Gioro Puyi, the Last Emperor of the Qing Dynasty, meets just about any definition for historically significant that you can come up with. Not only did it belong to a figure from our relatively recent history that marked a profound change in a nation’s history, but in terms of vintage Patek, this complicated Calatrava is worth studying even outside the scope of its significant owner. If you’re not familiar with Puyi’s story, a brief introduction or refresher is certainly in order to properly contextualize the watch. Aisin-Gioro Puyi became the Emperor of China at the age of 2, abdicated his throne at 7, and was held as a political prisoner by the Soviets following World War II. Puyi led an uncommon and complex life through a period of great political upheaval, but it’s notable that despite the title of Emperor that was thrust upon him as a boy, he never held significant power as a world leader. In his brief stint as the final Emperor of the Qing Dynasty he was essentially a figurehead, and later served as the puppet leader of Manchukuo for the Japanese following their invasion of Manchuria in 1932. Puyi is seen by s...
Time+Tide
The MB&F; LM Perpetual Steel is their second ever creation to have a salmon dial Stainless steel is very rarely used by MB&F; for cases, upping the rarity factor even more Not a limited edition, but it will be limited in production each year When you look at higher end brands like Patek Philippe, typically … ContinuedThe post The new MB&F; LM Perpetual has a salmon dial in a steel case – super rare for the brand yet not a limited edition! appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
After more than a year of rumours, LVMH finally confirmed the long expected with its February announcement of the relaunch of Daniel Roth. And now the brand officially debuts its inaugural watch, the Tourbillon Souscription. Modelled on the Daniel Roth tourbillon of 1988, the Tourbillon Souscription is almost a remake of the original from thirty-five years ago. It retains the same styling characterised by a double-ellipse case and one-minute tourbillon at six, but is entirely new in terms of mechanics: inside is a brand-new mechanical movement developed by La Fabrique du Temps Louis Vuitton (LFT). Initial thoughts I got in touch with Daniel Roth and his wife Nicolas after learning of the brand’s revival. They indicated their approval of the project. Their approval will probably have little impact on the new watches since they aren’t involved in the brand’s comeback, but it is certainly good to know. Being a homage to the brand’s origins, the Tourbillon Souscription is a good opening act in its revival. But for the resurrected brand to have longevity and relevance, it would have to do more than remakes; it will have to create new and original products that channel the spirit of the originals, a point I made in my earlier editorial. A Daniel Roth tourbillon from the 1990s The Tourbillon Souscription is clearly inspired by the original watches of the 1990s. It retains the same dimensions and almost all the details, right down to the hobnail guilloche dial. In fact, i...
Worn & Wound
We’re back with another pairing for Paired Up Monday’s. A while back, we partnered with the folks at Zodiac to create the Olympos Military Worn & Wound Edition. The creation took their 2:00 o’clock crowned Olympos and gave it a classic military dial with railroad minute track and bold numbers. Overall, the watch was a perfect amalgamation of both brands. We’re back with another pairing for Paired Up Monday’s. A while back, we partnered with the folks at Zodiac to create the Olympos Military Worn & Wound Edition. The creation took their 2:00 o’clock crowned Olympos and gave it a classic military dial with railroad minute track and bold numbers. Overall, the watch was a perfect amalgamation of both brands. The post Paired Up Mondays with the Zodiac Olympos Military Worn & Wound Edition appeared first on Worn & Wound.
Worn & Wound
We’re not yet at the stage that the BR05 is seen as THE Bell & Ross-there’s still a long way to go before it could dethrone the classic square silhouette of the BR01 and BR03 models-but it feels like it has grown up enough to be seen as not just another brand jumping on the integrated bracelet sport watch bandwagon. It’s not even four years since the first of the BR05 variants were unveiled, and during that time we have seen three-handers, chronographs and GMTs. Stainless steel watches have seen bead-blasting and ‘Artline’ finishing. There have been rose gold and two-tone cases. Dials have come in black, white, copper, green, and blue. And lets not forget the Kenissi powered BR-X5 which has also evolved from the same case. As I browse the BR05 catalogue, both past and present, I’m struck by two thoughts. Firstly, there have been a LOT of different watches in this line. It’s not surprising that a brand should choose to repeat and rework a flagship model, but even allowing for quite a number of limited editions, that’s still a lot of releases since the original 2019 debut. This leads to my second thought. Despite always being impressed with the overall aesthetic, case design and finishing, why haven’t I found one that I really like? Finding my own answer to that has required me to attempt to classify what type of watch the BR05 actually is. $6600 [Hands-On] The Bell & Ross BR05 Skeleton Golden Case Stainless Stee Movement BR-CAL.322 (Base SW300-1) Dia...
Hodinkee
These next classes will be hosted by IWC, Moe Jaber, and the Atlanta Watch Society.
Time+Tide
Magnetism is an everyday danger to your mechanical watch, but these five antimagnetic watches dealt with it best and first.The post 5 of the most pioneering anti-magnetic watches appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Deployant
Panerai releases the new Luminor Chrono Zebra, in a new black and white colorway. The limited edition of 350 pieces is cased in sandblasted titanium with a carbotech bezel.
Hodinkee
A sage green dial for the brand's easiest-wearing model.
Quill & Pad
Martin Green thought that the Moser Pioneer was the perfect luxury sports watch, but with the new 40 mm models, it just got even better!
Time+Tide
The DOXA SUB 200 C-GRAPH II brings the case size down from 45mm to 42mm. This is the first time DOXA’s famous dial colours have been given a sunburst finish. It’s a fantastic option for a gender-neutral diving chronograph. When DOXA dropped their first non-reissue chronograph back in late 2020, it was one of the … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The DOXA SUB 200 C-GRAPH II is more compact and more colourful than ever appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Revolution
The Jacob & Co. Epic SF24 is a watch that is so unapologetically original that it takes the classic world time complication and flips it on its head. Instead of using hands or rotating discs to indicate the 24 major timezones, it utilises a remarkable innovation called the Split-Flap system to display a selected timezone […]
Time+Tide
Collaboration often leads to the best results, and Stella is a brand born of collaboration. With the name formed out of the founders Stephen and Marcella’s names, you can tell that their partnership is really the core of the company. A passion for watches is common between them, and the meshing of Marcella’s creative brain … ContinuedThe post MICRO MONDAYS: The Stella Ellis is a stunning GMT with traditional sensibilities and contemporary looks appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Hodinkee
Swapping wrists with the GMT-Master II Ref. 126720VTNR - the most fun watch the Crown has made in years.
Deployant
Over the top Watches! OK, we are being provocative. Just too loud and attention grabbing for the average watch collector. We pick our top 6 favourites.
Time+Tide
It’s another knock-down, drag-out street fight here on Versus, and this match-up pits two classic divers, the current version of the venerable Seiko Turtle against the bomb-proof Citizen Eco-Drive Promaster Dive. Once again, we match up two comparable watches in similar styles and price points, and compare their shared qualities, and the ones that set … ContinuedThe post VERSUS: The Seiko Prospex Turtle takes on the Citizen Promaster Dive for entry-level underwater supremacy appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
If you are reading this, then in all likelihood you are passionate about watchmaking – or, at the very least, on the path to being a watch enthusiast. But, in order for us to report on watches, and for all of us to be able to purchase and have our watches serviced when needed, this … ContinuedThe post RECOMMENDED VIEWING: NBC reports on the threat of a watchmaker shortage appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Quill & Pad
With the Type 8, Ressence goes to the core of its “DNA.” In fact, with it Ressence seems to be exploring an even stronger sense of purity than what we have seen before. That says a lot as Ressence was already a master in toning down design to achieve maximum impact and legibility.
Time+Tide
The Czapek Antarctique Titanium Dark Sector brings attention to negative space in a refreshing way. The new anthracite dial is inspired by the clear and dark skies of Antarctica. The use of titanium means the whole watch weighs only 95g. Reviving an extinct watch brand can often lead to the creative trap of rehashing vintage … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Czapek Antarctique Titanium Dark Sector appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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