Revolution
Introducing the New Longines DolceVita with Elegant Art Deco Sector Dials
Longines presents new additions to the DolceVita collection with elegant Art Deco sector dials that are sure to get the purists’ hearts racing.
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Revolution
Longines presents new additions to the DolceVita collection with elegant Art Deco sector dials that are sure to get the purists’ hearts racing.
WatchAdvice
Pros: Graduated shades of intense blues on the dialA real joy to see the redesigned calibre 899 on the case back ISO 6425 complaint proper ‘diving’ watch Cons: Some may not be fans of the screw-in internal Bezel 42mm case size will wear large on wrists smaller than 6.5 inchesSome may find it pricey Overall Rating: 8.1/10 Value for money – 7.5/10Wearability – 8/10Design – 8.5/10Build Quality – 8.5/10 Reference : 9068180 Late last year in October 2020, Jaeger-LeCoultre introduced the Polaris Mariner for their Polaris collection. The Polaris Mariner is a range of high-performing diving watches that pay homage to the brand’s diving legacy and almost 100 years of knowledge and expertise on chiming watches. Jaeger-LeCoultre has introduced two watches to their sporty and elegant Polaris collection; the Polaris Mariner Memovox and Polaris Mariner Date. What we have on our hands today is the classic diving piece the Jaeger-LeCoultre Polaris Mariner Date. Case: Reference : 9068180 The case on the new Jaeger-LeCoultre Polaris Mariner Date is as close as it gets to the vintage 1968 Memovox Polaris. This 1968 model was the first true diving watch by Jaeger-LeCoultre, which included an internal rotating bezel, an alarm, and a triple-layer case-back for better sound transmission. With the latest Polaris Mariner Date model, the alarm and sound transmission mechanisms have been left out for the Memovox model, with the Mariner Date being the simple yet classic diving...
SJX Watches
Patents in watchmaking are often brushed over by the brand themselves, except when tallying them in marketing material. But they are important, and can be foundational to a brand, as George Daniels’ famed co-axial escapement is synonymous with Omega. But there is a great deal more in watchmaking that can be protected with a patent than a lubrication-free escapement. A large proportion of the parts that make up a watch – from case materials to time-display mechanisms – can be patented, and often are. That begs the question: what exactly can be patented? The common obstacle encountered by a would-be inventor is that patents are notoriously difficult to secure, especially if applied for without specialist help. Going from application to approval of a patent often requires several years, and approval is not a certainty. Gaining a patent hinges on three criteria: the invention in question must be new, non-obvious, and useful. Beyond the necessary knowledge of prior inventions – in order to prove the patent-pending idea is new – the incredibly specific wording required for patents can be daunting to an independent applicant, so it usually falls to a patent attorney to lead the application process. But patents can be lucrative for an inventor, especially for an innovation targeted at the consumer, which is why new patents are registered every day. The United States Patent and Trademark Office, for instance, received just under 670,000 patent applications in 2019, and gr...
Time+Tide
Yes, maybe you use your watch mostly to tell the time. But how about the joys of using a good old chronograph to time your bike ride to the shops. Or flying into another time zone with a GMT on your wrist (it will happen again one day). Let’s tempt you with the best value … ContinuedThe post Is your life complicated enough? These are the best value watch complications that deliver serious bang for your buck appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Revolution
Roger Dubuis is celebrating its partnership with Pirelli through the release of an exciting new interpretation of its Excalibur collection, the Excalibur Spider and Excalibur Spider Pirelli. This is the first time, the brand is offering its most sought-after complications in 39mm.
Time+Tide
DLC, or diamond-like carbon, is a great tool for watch manufacturers to leverage. It’s capable of not only changing the aesthetics, but also the durability of a timepiece. To get an idea of how tough DLC is, the material typically measures at 5000-9000HV on the Vickers hardness test. Essentially, this means that DLC is as … ContinuedThe post Watches By Material: Four super-tough watches that use DLC coatings appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Deployant
One of the most iconic watches by Cartier, the Santos needs no introduction. The origins of the Santos dates back to 1904 when Cartier first designed the watch to accompany aviator Santos Dumont on his intrepid flights. With an aviation history, Santos bears the pedigree of a Pilot’s watch and is one of the earliest tool purpose wristwatches in history.
Quill & Pad
Whether 'Stalin’s Wine Cellar' is a journey about chasing fakes, or if these bottles hidden away in the former Soviet Union are genuine, the story makes for a rollicking saga. And if the bottles are genuine, who really did own them and what on earth might they be worth? The tale takes us on twist after twist and has been described as “Raiders of the Lost Ark for wine lovers.” Ken Gargett couldn't put the book down.
Time+Tide
Look, I don’t have a crystal ball that can tell me which new watches will or will not drop this year. But when people raise the question of whether or not the Black Bay Fifty-Eight with its 39mm dial will replace the 41mm line in the Tudor catalogue, I am not afraid to share my … ContinuedThe post 2021 Watch Predictions: Will the Tudor Black Bay 58 replace the 41mm line-up? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
A self-taught clockmaker in Michigan, Rick Hale has unveiled his latest timekeeping sculpture – Wind & Water. Working under the name Clockwright, Mr Hale specialises in the creation of bespoke, monumental wooden clocks, such as the KL1 introduced in 2018, which stood over 5 ft, or 1.5 m, tall. Initial thoughts One could be forgiven for thinking that Wind & Water is a static work of art rather than a functional, mechanical clock regulated by a pendulum. It’s an illusion created by the disconnected layout of the components and the deceptively simple looking gear train. The Wind & Water is, in fact, both. Naturally, the motion of the pendulum isn’t captured in still photos, and can only appreciated in person. The clock is doubtlessly a dynamic presence in real life: measuring 1.5 m by almost 1 m, it will be hard to miss on the wall. Made almost entirely out of figured cherry that has been aged for several years, the components exhibit varied grain and colour, giving it a nuance impossible with conventional metal parts. Meanwhile, lignum vitae, a dense wood that’s hard wearing and self-lubricating, is used for the bushings and rollers. And unlike metal, wood is isotropic; its strength is directional – strong along its grain, but weaker laterally. As a result, the direction of the grain has to be kept in mind when creating both the mechanical and structural parts of the clock – while also considering the aesthetics of the grain and colour – which calls for an ad...
Time+Tide
I’d almost have to include a ‘ghost watch’ in my three, as there was a long period, at the height of our first lockdown, where I stopped wearing a watch altogether. Despite appearing on Zoom daily, often back to back, for a good few weeks, if not a month, I went bare-wristed. The reason? Two … ContinuedThe post The three watches Andrew wore most in 2020: Rolex, DOXA and Longines appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
Is this the perfect everyday tool watch from the Zaratsu wizards? I am seriously baffled by the Grand Seiko SBGX343. This seems to be nothing less than a dynamic amalgamation of our favourite design traits from Grand Seiko and a prominent Swiss crowned supplier of largely unavailable cyclopsed divers’ watches. Our Japanese friends have managed … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Grand Seiko SBGX343 is like a kick-ass Milgauss / Explorer hybrid with a killer quartz movement appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Deployant
Hands-on detailed review of the new Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Duoface Fagliano - dual timezone with the aesthetic of the Tribute collection.
Deployant
You have read the reviews. You have seen the specifications. Here is our take on the new Rolex Oyster Perpetuals with our own photographs.
Deployant
Marking the 15th anniversary of the brand’s most robust and distinctive collection, Ball launches the new Engineer Hydrocarbon Original. We had the watch as a daily beater for about a week, and here is our in-depth review, and explore the technical features. Ball Engineer Hydrocarbon Original Ref. DM2118B-SCJ-BK Retail price: SGD 4,250 inclusive of GSTRead More
Hodinkee
Here's a guy who truly knows the value of a great tool watch.
SJX Watches
Alongside the unusual R500 “bullhead” chronograph, Sinn’s new debuts for the year include a pair of entry-level “tool” watches. The Series 105 is comprised of two models – 105 St Sa and 105 St Sa UTC – that are reminiscent of classic pilot’s watches, but in a clean, modern style with a dial populated by geometric shapes. Both are dual time zone watches, but executed differently. The 105 St Sa UTC is similar to a traditional GMT watch, having an additional 24-hour hand as well as a 24-hour rotating bezel. More unusual is the base model 105 St Sa, which has a bezel with two separate scales – 12-hour and 60-minute markings – that allows for measuring short elapsed times as well as tracking a second time zone. 105 St Sa (left) and 105 St Sa UTC Initial thoughts Starting at €1,350 for the base model, and rising to €1,790 for the UTC on a steel bracelet, the 105 is a value buy that manages to differentiate itself from the numerous “tool” watches in the same price segment. It has roots in Sinn’s Pilot Watch 104 – the brand’s long-standing, entry-level aviator’s watch – but the 105 is different enough to make it stand out. To start with, the dial design is simple but smart. The base model, for instance, manages to incorporate a day and date display in a symmetrical manner, preserving both legibility and balance. At the same time, the colours are unusual, especially the white and orange combination that is just as functional but avoids the all...
Time+Tide
You don’t need the statistics to tell you that Apple Watches sell more than the rest of the Swiss watch industry combined. You need only to glance at people’s wrists. You can’t miss those sleek square slabs. They’re everywhere. Worn by every age group, in every profession. I’ve been told they’re particularly popular among undertakers, … ContinuedThe post The only thing I want buzzing on my wrist is a Memovox. Why I’ll never wear an Apple Watch… appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
This week, in an unusual move from the obsessive tool laboratory of Sinn Spezialuhren (yes, Special Watches - only tools and instruments may apply), comes a glittery fresh take on the social media and forum hive-mind favourite, the 41mm Sinn 103 pilot’s chronograph. In the Sinn 103 Sa G version they have taken what is a … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Sinn 103 Sa G is a totally new look for Sinn, and we can get around it appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
All the connotations and daydreams that come with the image of a fighter pilot are on show in the intriguing IWC Pilot’s Watch Double Chronograph TOP GUN Ceratanium, a functional tool watch that transcends the genre. The cool black finish could only be German, and following a strict code of functionality that, while formal in … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The IWC Pilot’s Watch Double Chronograph TOP GUN Ceratanium, a stone-cold classic … blacked-out, suited up and mission-ready appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Famous for its no-nonsense “tool” watches, some of which are supplied to the German military and law enforcement, Sinn’s latest debut is slightly different. Inspired by auto racing, the R500 chronograph is a watch that shows the brand can have some fun, while being properly functional. Modelled on a funky chronograph Sinn produced in the 1970s, the R500 is a “bullhead” chronograph, with the twin pushers positioned like horns at one and 11 o’clock. While the style very much evokes the 1970s, the R500 is built like a robust modern wristwatch, with titanium case rated to 200 m that’s resistant to extreme low and high pressures. Initial thoughts Radically different from Sinn’s usual fare of pilot’s or military-style watches, the R500 is arguably the most interesting watch amongst the brand’s recent releases. It’s recognisably 1970s in style, but with a clean dial design that avoids the “exotic” dial found on the vintage original, which was a typically 1970s feature that can look dated today. A notable element of the dial design is the power reserve indicator at 12 o’clock, which seems unnecessary for an automatic watch. But German rally champion Peter Göbel, speaking during a video interview for the launch of the R500, noted that a fully-wound mainspring is crucial before starting a race – since the chronograph can be used to time laps – so it is useful in that context. And it’s also unusual against the broader landscape because “bullhea...
Time+Tide
In this final instalment of the Rockstars Rocking Vintage trilogy, we see two famous musicians go the way of Wilsdorf. He founded both Tudor and Rolex, and here we have spotted two desirable tool watches from the Wilsdorf group on the wrists of two artists from different generations – once again proving that vintage staples … ContinuedThe post Rockstars rocking vintage watches, Part 3 – Wilsdorf Watches appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Having recently ditched its takeover of Tiffany & Co. – citing looming US tariffs on French goods – LVMH has now done what many industry insiders long expected – clinching the deal at a lower price. The owner of Louis Vuitton and Bulgari will pay US$131.50 a share for the American jeweller, instead of the US$135 originally agreed. The discount is more modest than expected, slightly over 2%, which translates into savings of about US$400m, against a total deal value of about US$15.8 billion. The deal is expected to close in early 2021. Regardless of the price, Tiffany is an important addition to LVMH’s expansive stable of luxury brands. Although LVMH is the world’s largest biggest group by a large margin – its 2019 sales were €53.7 billion – it has a comparatively small presence in “hard” luxury, namely watches and jewellery. That segment now makes up less than 10% of its sales, but Tiffany will bulk it up significantly. In fact, the deal’s completion will mean that LVMH owns two of the three largest makers of branded jewellery – Tiffany and Bulgari.
Time+Tide
The WMB came out in 2019 as an unusual and strong contender from the newly formed French microbrand Serica, through an idea from the only American on the team, author of A Man & His Watch, Matt Hranek. Inspired by the iconic Wrist Watch Waterproof of the armed forces, a tough-looking everyday tool watch with … ContinuedThe post MICRO MONDAYS: The Serica 4512, a tough French take on classic military utilitarian chic appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
Earlier in the week we uncovered a group of celebrities whose daily weapon of choice is not just a modded Rolex, but a modded Milgauss. And not just modded, fully blacked-out, including the bracelet. In our research for that story, with a little help from Nick Gould, we discovered this example – David Beckham wearing … ContinuedThe post That time David Beckham wore a blacked-out Rolex Sea-Dweller courtside, with a custom Tudor thrown in appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Revolution
Fabrizio Buonamassa, Creative Director for Bulgari Watches and Wei Koh, founder of The Rake and Revolution tell us a little about the phenomenon that is the Octo Finissimo and our latest “glowing” limited edition.
Time+Tide
Looks can be deceiving, and the Seiko Prospex SNR049J proves the point in idiosyncratic style, once again firmly setting the bar for how we perceive a tool watch. This is a deliciously blue faced, limited reference in the LX series, Seiko’s pinnacle of sports and diver’s watches. In 2020 this is a brash and unapologetically … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Seiko Prospex SNR049J Batman will leave you black and blue appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Revolution
Hot on the tail of the launch of the Legacy Machine Perpetual Yellow Gold comes the all new MB&F; Legacy Machine Perpetual EVO
Time+Tide
Now, we all have an image of the Speedmaster Professional, the icon, the Tool of Tool watches, the Moon Watch. A beautiful 42mm piece of history, with its delicate white lumed baton hands pointing to a still timeless sixties minute track, and delicate slightly recessed sub chronograph registers on a plain, matt monochromatic dial. Twisted … ContinuedThe post Would you pay $13,000USD for a Speedy that’s spent 188 days in space? Because that’s the current online bid… appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
Rolex fakes have existed for a very long time. But where it used to be pretty easy to spot an impostor – from the dull lustre of the cheap materials, to laughable aesthetic inaccuracies, to the sound of the rotor rattling from across the boardroom table like a bag of Skittles – it is now … ContinuedThe post 3 reasons why Rolex fakes are getting so good, and some tips to avoid them from Watchfinder appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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