Hodinkee
Introducing: Urwerk Brings A New Case Material To The UR-230 Polaris
The UR-230 gets the polar treatment right in time for the Holidays.
Results for Above the Date Window
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Hodinkee
Monochrome
The Evergreens – The History of the Rolex Explorer, The All-Rounder Watch Personified
Rolex has never been known as a watchmaker of grand complications. The core of its portfolio consists of purposeful and precise sports watches with a dose of luxury if desired. 904L stainless steel or “Oystersteel” dominates this lineup, but 18k gold in part or in full are popular choices and often a “flex” for business […]
Worn & Wound
De Rijke & Co.’s Miffy Moonphase Returns for the Final Time in Steel
I’ve become a pretty big fan of De Rijke & Co. over the past few years, and am glad to see them experiencing so much success recently (I’m basing this on their booth at the New York City Windup Watch Fair being mobbed to the point that I couldn’t find room to introduce myself to brand founder Laurens de Rijke until the last day of the show). If I’m being honest, though, I’ve been a bit mystified by the whole Miffy thing. The Miffy Moonphase watches have become something of a viral sensation for De Rijke, but I’ve always assumed the limited editions were snatched up by an international audience with more Miffy familiarity than the typical American watch consumer. But earlier this year, traveling back from Geneva Watch Days, I had a connection in Amsterdam, and waiting at the gate I noticed an American family (the Boston accents gave it away) with two young children and several shopping bags full of Miffy memorabilia purchased, I assume, somewhere in Schiphol Airport. It dawned on me then that the Dutch cartoon was not some closely held regional secret – it was just I’m, as usual, painfully out of touch. Today, De Rijke launches a pair of new Miffy Moonphases with green dials that follow the format of their previous releases closely. This, according to De Rijke, is the final Miffy Moonphase release in a steel case, and it consists of both a single and double moonphase, each in an edition of 50. The double moonphase watches have been particular favorites sin...
Fratello
Trying On The 38.5mm Yema Navygraf Super Compressor In Marine Nationale Bleu
Yema and I go back, way back. Well, back to 2021, actually. One of the first articles I wrote for Fratello was on a Yema watch…and not just any Yema watch. The Navygraf Marine Nationale GMT Limited Edition I wrote about marked the start of Yema’s military career as an official partner of the French […] Visit Trying On The 38.5mm Yema Navygraf Super Compressor In Marine Nationale Bleu to read the full article.
Fratello
Testing The Rugged Micromilspec Milgraph In Inhospitable Urban Conditions
Let’s start this review with a confession: I hate this time of year in the Netherlands. With gray skies for days on end, endless wet streets, howling winds, and inhospitable temperatures, it’s not always the most enjoyable place to be. It’s not necessarily that I can’t handle these conditions individually, but together, they are rather […] Visit Testing The Rugged Micromilspec Milgraph In Inhospitable Urban Conditions to read the full article.
SJX Watches
The Omega Speedmaster for Military Pilots is Now Available to Civilians
Originally conceived for pilots of the US military (and covered here by Fratello), the Omega Speedmaster Pilot is now available to civilians. The origins of the watch explain the military-influenced, instrument-style dial design, which is meant to evoke the utilitarian nature of an instrument panel inside a fighter jet. The regular production version of the watch retains the same specs as the military exclusive, but with different livery. The case has the straight lugs of the Speedmaster “Ed White” but in a larger format thanks to the automatic cal. 9900 inside. Initial thoughts I’m something of an outlier amongst enthusiasts since I prefer automatic to manual-wind, even within the Speedmaster collection. While a manual-wind movement is traditional for the Speedy, I appreciate the day-to-day convenience of an automatic. Additionally, Omega’s latest-generation automatic chronograph movements are all impressively high-spec. While the Speedmaster Pilot may not achieve the same aesthetic purity as its manual-wind counterparts, it remains an excellent everyday option, especially with the military provenance. That said, the military provenance is not exactly military-issue. The watch was designed for military pilots who presumably buy it on a personal basis for off-duty wear; it is not an actual mil-spec instrument watch. This can be seen in the dial design, which has aviation-inspired elements, rather than actual, functional indicators for pilots. Even though this is m...
SJX Watches
Blancpain Introduces Villeret Chinese Calendar “Year of the Snake”
To mark the Chinese New Year that begins on January 29, 2025, Blancpain has unveiled the Villeret Traditional Chinese Calendar “Year of the Snake”. For the first time, the brand combines a platinum case with a green grand feu enamel dial on its wristwatch that has the unusual complication of a Chinese lunisolar calendar. As with previous editions, the Villeret Chinese Calendar displays the symbol of the Chinese Zodiac in a small aperture located at noon, in addition to featuring a snake motif engraved on its frosted white gold rotor. Initial thoughts The ability of a perpetual calendar to accurately track months, dates, and days for decades, mechanically and without any manual adjustments, remains impressive even as the complication has become common. Watches with a traditional Chinese calendar, however, remain rare and arguably more impressive. Only a handful of brands have incorporated the traditional Chinese calendar into a wristwatch, with Blancpain being one of the earliest to do so, way back in 2012 ( and more recently H. Moser & Cie. has done the same). Admittedly, the latest edition of the Villeret Traditional Chinese Calendar introduces little new beyond the platinum case paired with a green enamel dial. Both the design and movement remain the same. While not intrinsically novel, the new version of the Traditional Chinese Calendar remains an interesting complication, with the new livery being appealing in itself. Year of the serpent The snake zodiac edition is...
Deployant
Six unsung watchmaking heroes from the independent world
There are many celebrated heroes from the world of independent watchmaking. But how many of these unsung heroes do you know?
Fratello
Hands-On With The Brilliant Nodus Contrail GMT Terra
Let me give you a little look behind the scenes at Fratello. Usually, we have watches in the office for a relatively short time. That can be from a few days to a couple of weeks. But rarely do we have the chance to try out a watch for a longer period. I had that […] Visit Hands-On With The Brilliant Nodus Contrail GMT Terra to read the full article.
Monochrome
The Petrolhead Corner – The Electrified Ac Ace Classic Brings Back a Legendary British Roadster
As one of the oldest brands in the business, UK-born AC Cars can look back at quite an incredible history. A history that spans two continents really, as the foundation of one of the most prolific sports cars, the Shelby Cobra, was very much laid in London, England. Through several financial troubles, however, the company […]
Fratello
Fratello Favorites: The Best Watches Of 2024 - Thomas’s Picks From Cartier, Audemars Piguet, Echo/Neutra, And More
The year is quickly coming to a close, so it’s time for some retrospective action! I have the honor of opening a new series of Fratello Favorites - the best watches of 2024! These watches made the biggest impression on me. Are they objectively the best? Of course not. Instead, these are watches that I […] Visit Fratello Favorites: The Best Watches Of 2024 - Thomas’s Picks From Cartier, Audemars Piguet, Echo/Neutra, And More to read the full article.
Worn & Wound
The Three Watch Collection for $5,000: Reader Edition – Sunny Tsui
Editor’s note: In this week’s 3 Watch Collection for $5,000, reader Sunny Tsui takes us through a hypothetical collection that is remarkably well balanced. It features a watch from a major luxury brand, an affordable indie on the rise, and, like so many of these three watch collections, a Seiko that you might not be expecting. You can make your submission to the Three Watch Collection – Reader Edition by filling out the form right here. It’s always interesting to think about a three watch collection with a given budget at a certain point in time. The recommendations will evolve over time with our knowledge in watches, new models coming up, and the market conditions. I have been considering style, complications, and brand variety when constructing this collection. To push the boundary maximising the value, I am selecting all three watches from the pre-owned market. Christopher Ward C63 Sealander GMT – $900 (Pre-owned) The first one is a versatile watch from a British brand – Christopher Ward. I have been following the brand for a while but really took notice, like many others, when they launched the C1 Bel Canto. From my experience the brand really does a good job in manufacturing high quality watches with reasonable mark-ups. With a 39mm diameter, 12mm case height, and a 46mm lug-to-lug distance plus a clean white dial, the C63 Sealander GMT is a versatile watch fitting any occasion and outfit. You can easily pair it with business casual attire in the workp...
Monochrome
Video – Digging into the Oil-Filled Watches of Ressence
Since 2010, Ressence has slowly been paving the way for its unique way of indicating time, and the result is a highly recognizable brand with some pretty odd techniques. When Benoît Mintiens started his brand some 14 years ago, he had a strong vision of what he wanted to create regarding ergonomics and legibility. Essential […]
![[VIDEO] Review: the echo/neutra Rivanera](https://wornandwound.com/library/uploads/2024/12/ECHONEUTRA_RIVANERA_4.jpg)
Worn & Wound
[VIDEO] Review: the echo/neutra Rivanera
Over time, I’ve come to realize that my favorite emotion to experience in this hobby is surprise. That could be because I work in the watch industry and am therefore exposed to so many watches that are the opposite of surprising. Predictability, in any job, leads to a certain amount of drudgery. But those moments of surprise, seeing or reading about a watch that you didn’t expect or couldn’t have conceived of, more than make up for it. By the same token, I understand that for some in our community, surprise or any rocking of the boat is less desirable. If you view watches from a strictly classicist perspective, you might roll your eyes at purely adventurous designs in the same way I do at watches that seem to just be repeating what has come before. Part of me, I have to admit, envies the watch enthusiasts who can see a vintage inspired, black dialed dive watch and be ready to throw the rest of it away. There’s an idea that I keep turning around in my head, that watches were never really intended to be “collected,” that one good one is all anyone really needs, so there’s something correct about seeing a watch like a Tudor Black Bay (a watch I own and love, and even won a Thunderdome with) and feeling like you’ve just a met a watch that will be with you forever. At this point, that’s just not me, and I find myself seeking out watches that feel obscure, strange, or neglected somehow. I want to discover new, under the radar, and risky designs made by crea...
Fratello
Hands-On With The New Venezianico Arsenale Ultrablack And Blue
Roughly six months ago, I penned my first article on a Venezianico watch. It was impressive considering I hadn’t heard of the brand. Since then, I’ve covered several of the company’s watches from a distance. I finally met the team and saw the watches in person at the WatchPro Salon 2024. Among the pieces we […] Visit Hands-On With The New Venezianico Arsenale Ultrablack And Blue to read the full article.
Fratello
Hands-On: The Cartier Santos De Cartier Dual Time Is Great In Numerous Ways
Among all watches, the Cartier Santos de Cartier is my muse. My Santos Galbée XL is my favorite watch in my collection, so I’m always curious to see what new variations will debut among the novelties at Watches and Wonders. This year was particularly exciting because Cartier announced the new Santos de Cartier Dual Time […] Visit Hands-On: The Cartier Santos De Cartier Dual Time Is Great In Numerous Ways to read the full article.
Worn & Wound
Holiday Gift Guide: Watches for the Tech Enthusiast in Your Life Featuring Citizen
This year marks the 100th anniversary of Citizen’s very first watch. Over the past several years, Citizen has expanded its reach into the enthusiast watch market with a series of releases that deliver exceptional value in materials, technology, and aesthetics-while retaining broad mass-market appeal. A forward-thinking approach to innovation has always been a cornerstone of Citizen’s identity, making their watches ideal gifts for tech enthusiasts. You know the type-those who always have the latest and greatest gadgets. With groundbreaking advancements like Eco-Drive light-powered functionality, custom materials like Super Titanium, and superior accuracy through Satellite Wave GPS and Atomic Timekeeping, Citizen offers something truly special for the gadget lover in your life. The post Holiday Gift Guide: Watches for the Tech Enthusiast in Your Life Featuring Citizen appeared first on Worn & Wound.
Monochrome
First Look – The Bovet Récital 21 Retrograde Perpetual Calendar Becomes Sleeker with Sapphire Dials
Bovet’s watchmaking universe is characterised by incredibly complex timepieces staged with dramatic flair and decorated to unparalleled standards. Founded in 1822, Pascal Raffy breathed new life into Bovet to create a highly niche connoisseur brand. While classical complications and centuries-old decorative techniques abound, Bovet is no stranger to the potential of sapphire crystals and luminescence […]
Worn & Wound
The Doxa Sub 200T Diamonds: What Happens When You Shrink It, Pink It, and Bling It
Late last month, Doxa – the reigning cushion case champ and many divers’ brand of choice – released a dazzling new line of Sub 200T references. Media coverage has been sparse. This isn’t really surprising, as the new drop is… a lot to take in. Even though many journalists in the industry appear to be reserving their judgment thus far of the new Doxa Diamonds, social media users are happy to fill in the vacuum with their no-holds-barred opinions. There seem to be a few discussions happening on various watch forums, but the real heartbeat of public opinion can be found amongst the Instagram comments on Doxa’s official brand posts. In case anyone is removed from the world of the socials, allow me to pick a few gems for your reading pleasure: “This is an abomination.” “April fool’s territory.” And, my personal favorite, “Cousteau and Cussler are rolling in their graves.” These are found, of course, in between a punctuating handful of green seasick emojis that really work to tie together the whole sentiment. In sum, Doxa fans think this new series is a swing and a miss for the brand. The drop is clearly reaching for a different market segment than Doxa’s typical consumer base. Though the move into jewels may bring more female buyers into the fold, it’s important to mention that some of the models wearing the Diamonds watches in Doxa’s marketing materials are men. This indicates the new line is meant for all and shouldn’t be relegated to the d...
Fratello
Introducing: The Horage Omnium K2 Collection
During last month’s WatchPro Salon 2024 in London, we met with Horage and saw several pieces from the brand’s upcoming Omnium K2 collection. Due to a faceted crystal, these watches are a notably different take on a dress watch. I came away impressed with the creative approach. Horage has been in business for 15 years, […] Visit Introducing: The Horage Omnium K2 Collection to read the full article.
Monochrome
Introducing – The Louis Vuitton Escale Platinum Guilloché and Grand Feu Enamel Dial
Following a drastic change of strategy in recent years, Louis Vuitton‘s watchmaking division is being primed to become a serious player. As part of the new strategy, Arnault has taken the flagship Tambour watch, launched in 2002, and revisited it as a luxury sports watch, while the Louis Vuitton Escale was reintroduced as a time-only […]
Monochrome
Introducing – Omega Adds a Gradient Turquoise Option to the Seamaster Aqua Terra 150m Collection
It has become a pretty recurring thing for Omega to release new models, or at least new editions of existing watches, with very little or no fanfare. While this has happened in the Planet Ocean and Speedmaster collections, it’s mostly the Aqua Terra family that sees these discreet releases dropping regularly. Following the addition of […]
Fratello
The IWC RAAF Watch Is A Reminder Of The Brand’s Rich Past
Earlier this year, I wrote about a special watch from the International Watch Company Schaffhausen. That was the IWC reference IW3281-02, also known as the Pilot’s Watch Automatic RAAF (henceforth called “IWC RAAF watch” for brevity). This special timepiece pays homage to the original IWC Mark 11 watches issued to the Royal Australian Air Force […] Visit The IWC RAAF Watch Is A Reminder Of The Brand’s Rich Past to read the full article.
Monochrome
Hands-on – The Tusenö Windseeker, A Serious All-Rounder Watch at a Fair Price
Recently, we’ve introduced a rather promising all-rounder watch coming from the North, the Windseeker made by a young Swedish micro-brand named Tusenö Watches. On paper, everything seemed good: nice design, an extensive list of specs, a pleasant blend of casualness and refinement, a Swiss movement and a truly attractive price. But that was on paper. […]
Fratello
Hands-On: The New Omega Seamaster Diver 300M With A Steel Dial And Titanium Bezel
Yes, you read that correctly. I think the new Omega Seamaster Diver 300M, with its steel dial, titanium bezel, and mesh bracelet, is wrong. Allow me to explain myself. Historically, combining the 1990s case design with a mesh bracelet that originated a couple of decades before that doesn’t make sense. As a dive watch, it […] Visit Hands-On: The New Omega Seamaster Diver 300M With A Steel Dial And Titanium Bezel to read the full article.
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Worn & Wound
Worn & Wound
Christopher Ward’s Dallas Showroom: Experience a Piece of England, Deep in the Heart of Texas
Christopher Ward is one of those brands that’s been doing it their very own way from the beginning. Between its direct-to-consumer business model to its recent expansion into approachable haute horology, the Christopher Ward team has been willing to experiment with new technologies and marketing strategies, pushing the industry forward-whether they like it or not. We recently had the chance to sit down with a familiar face, Michael Pearson is Christopher Ward’s Brand Director for the North America region. We chatted about the brand, the watches, and most importantly we discussed the opening of the company’s first showroom outside of England, located near Dallas, TX. We were also honored to be the team chosen to officially photograph the space for the public. Please enjoy both our conversation and these first-glimpse photos of Christopher Ward’s ambitious expansion. The post Christopher Ward’s Dallas Showroom: Experience a Piece of England, Deep in the Heart of Texas appeared first on Worn & Wound.
Hodinkee
House Of Craft: A Conversation With Audemars Piguet's Ginny Wright On Brand Evolution, Speaking To New Audiences, And The Power Of Women In The Watch Space
An enlightening chat with the CEO of the Americas for Audemars Piguet.
Monochrome
Video Review – The F.P. Journe Tourbillon Souverain Vertical, One of the Only Tourbillon Wristwatches that Makes Sense
If you’re reading this article and MONOCHROME on a regular basis, you should certainly all about the tourbillon, this device where the regulating organ is placed in a constantly rotating cage, counteracting the negative effect of gravity. But we have to keep in mind that the tourbillon, conceived and patented by Breguet in 1801, was […]
Worn & Wound
21 Of The Best Field Watches For Under $1,000
In this video, we take a look at some of the best field watches on the market priced under $1,000. We look at 21 different watches in both a modern and traditional format from brands like Timex, Seiko, Citizen, and Formex, just to name a few. While the definition of field watch can be a little bit murky, we tried to pick a bit of a variety of watches to fit any personal preference while staying true to the core values of legibility, durability, and a sense of simplicity. Deep rooted in military tradition, the field watch tends to fit a certain bill though I am sure a few on this list will surprise you. We will be creating more content like this in the future, so be sure to follow along on our Windup Watch Shop YouTube channel for more! The post 21 Of The Best Field Watches For Under $1,000 appeared first on Worn & Wound.
Hodinkee
Introducing: The Vulcain Nautical Legacy Massena LAB
A few new additions put a fresh spin on the classic Cricket Nautical.