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Quill & Pad
The new The Louis Vuitton Tambour Convergence has received a lot of press recently, and well deservedly so: it's a well-size (37 mm), quirky take on modern dress watch. But Ian Skellern think it looks too much like a Urwerk UR-101.
Monochrome
One of the most publicised adventurers and a Panerai ambassador for around two decades, Mike Horn has been known to push the limits of his gears – watch included – to levels that you and I would probably never dare to imagine. Should his polar expeditions, high-altitude climbs or even underwater explorations be considered a […]
Fratello
Listen, marginal gains matter in the world of high watchmaking. That’s why the Greubel Forsey Hand Made 2 is better than the Hand Made 1. Greubel Forsey set out to create a watch 100% made by hand, and with the Hand Made 1, the brand almost reached its goal. That extraordinary watch from 2019 was […] Visit Numbers Simply Don’t Do The Greubel Forsey Hand Made 2 Justice to read the full article.
Two Broke Watch Snobs
Aquastar's Benthos 500 holds an important spot in dive watch history. First unveiled in 1970, it stood out from the crowd with its unique chronograph-like functionality and slow-moving 60-minute elapsed-time counter. It was bold, unconventional, and ahead of its time-until the Quartz Crisis swept the industry off course. But what if quartz hadn't disrupted the market so quickly? The new Aquastar Benthos H2 wonders just that, providing a design inspired by archival drawings from the late '60s while moving it towards modern tastes and technologies.
Deployant
Zenith releases two new models at the LVMH watch week. The Chronomaster Sport Rainbow and the Defy Skyline Skeleton Chronograph.
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Time+Tide
A common phrase watch collectors throw around is "strap monster". We decided to take a moment to break down what it actually means.The post What is a strap monster, and why do you need one? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
WatchAdvice
For LVMH Watch Week, Zenith adds to their Defy Skyline collection, taking their Defy Skyline Chronograph and giving it the skeleton treatment. And it’s good! What We Love The skeleton dial looks stunning, especially in blue It has a great wrist presence Quick change strap and bracelet makes it easy to change looks What We Don’t No date! But I can maybe overlook that. Bracelet has no micro-adjust, so a perfect fit isn’t as easy to achieve The lume could be brighter on the hands and indices Overall Score: 8.9 / 10 Value for Money: 9/10 Wearability: 8.5/10 Design: 9/10 Build Quality: 9/10 For those of you who are familiar with Zenith’s Defy Skyline range the new Defy Skyline Chronograph Skeleton will be a watch that has come as no surprise to you. It’s the natural evolution of the Defy Skyline range as we saw last year with the Defy Skyline Skeleton coming out and then the Defy Skyline Chronograph. This new model does justice to both of those models in a fusion that works wonderfully well. RELATED READING: Hands On Review With The Zenith Defy Skyline Chronograph So when I heard that the Zenith Defy Skyline Chronograph was getting a makeover and the skeleton treatment, I was a little excited to see how these would look, and more importantly, how they looked on the wrist in daylight. If I cast my mind back to the middle of last year when I had the trio of Skyline Chronographs at my disposal, I recall that they all looked great and felt great on the wrist. I ended ...
Worn & Wound
Earlier this month when Kat Shoulders and I were discussing the concept of the “gateway watch” on the Worn & Wound podcast, the Astor+Banks Sea Ranger M2 was sitting just out of reach on my desk. I didn’t mention the newest iteration of the Sea Ranger concept in our discussion, but I very easily could have. This is a rock solid sports watch made by a micro-brand that has proven to be foundational in the space over the years, with just a little bit more than meets the eye when it comes to the finer details. Those details are the kinds of things that make a watch buyer a watch enthusiast, and there’s no doubt about it, Astor+Banks is an enthusiast focused brand. Still, the Sea Ranger M2 strikes me as the type of watch that, if it existed ten years ago, would be an easy recommendation for someone just starting out. The Sea Ranger M2 is positioned as a do-it-all adventure and tool watch, with a litany of impressive specs: 300 meters of water resistance, soft iron plates shielding the movement from magnetism, a pair of screw down crowns, a quick-adjust clasp (more on that later) and a La Joux-Perret movement with a 68 hour power reserve. These, for the most part, are calling cards of the modern tool watch, a baseline for what a brand has to do in order to claim their watch is a true go-anywhere-do-anything kind of timepiece. The micro-brand space is saturated (perhaps oversaturated) with watches in this genre, so it takes some work to stand out from the crowd. I don...
Monochrome
Iterations are the name of the game. When a watch brand stumbles upon a successful design for a timepiece, it would be fiscally foolish not to try and build upon it. What that means in the tiny world of watches is usually tiny little upgrades, or more often than not, not even upgrades but more […]
Hodinkee
Aquastar's brand heritage offers entry to the Dive Watch Hall of Fame, and the Benthos Heritage II follows a well-rehearsed playbook but captivates with modernized charm.
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Fratello
It’s great to kick off the new year with a watch from one of my favorite brands. The Aquastar Benthos H2 is a welcome release that should appeal to a wide audience. It’s affordable and, best of all, fits beautifully. The original Benthos 500 was a highly innovative mechanical dive watch that debuted in 1970. […] Visit Introducing: The Aquastar Benthos H2 to read the full article.
Worn & Wound
Watching Christopher Ward’s progression over the last twenty years has been a joy. From a plucky micro-brand, it has grown into the most significant watch brand in the UK. When watch industry veteran Mike Pearson joined their team as North American Brand Director about a year ago, I knew our side of the pond was in for a treat. It wasn’t long before he took Christopher Ward on the road throughout the continent, and luckily for me, one of the stops was in my backyard. We had been friends for years online, and this was finally an opportunity to meet in person. Seeing many Christopher Ward watches in the metal was also a great opportunity. It was a real treat to experience the Bel Canto in person and handle the newly released C60 Lumière dive watches. I was also incredibly excited to see the Twelve X, a piece I had written about a few months earlier. One item that was notably missing from the lineup was their Oracle collaborative piece, the C65 Dune Shoreline. This omission was understandable since it was limited to just 100 pieces. However, if you liked that design, we have some great news. Christopher Ward is launching a new collection called C65 Dune Aeolian, featuring textured wave dials, available in two case materials, with a GMT option. The Dune Aeolian Automatic features the stainless steel C65 light catcher case, which has a diameter of 38mm, a thickness of 11.9mm, and a lug-to-lug length of 43.7mm. This makes it universally wearable on wrists of all sizes. Ther...
Monochrome
Nomos, the independent German watch brand based in Glashütte, the cradle of Germany’s finest watchmaking traditions, was founded in 1990 and has earned a merited reputation for high-quality craftsmanship, in-house movements and minimalist designs. As the largest producer of mechanical watches in Germany, Nomos is also keen to lend a helping hand to humanitarian associations […]
Fratello
Some of my earliest watch-collecting memories concern vintage Heuer. The ’60s chronographs, with their captivating names, left an indelible mark in my subconscious. How could they not? The breadth of choices, from clinical (the Carrera) to zany (the Monaco), has always been a veritable feast for the eyes. Yet, have watch collectors ever witnessed a […] Visit Vintage Heuer: The Most Predictably Volatile Market Around? to read the full article.
SJX Watches
Bulgari’s flagship launch at the recent LVMH Watch Week was the mechanical version of its signature watch, the Serpenti Automatic. Available as a Seduttori with a conventional bracelet and a Tubogas multi-loop bracelet version, the Serpenti Automatic is stays faithful to the model in terms of design. But the new Serpenti is notable for what’s inside: the newly developed Lady Solotempo BVS100 movement, which reveals LVMH’s plans for its watch division, which is now led by Frédéric Arnault. Conceived as a compact workhorse with a useful 50-hour power reserve, the BVS100 is an industrial calibre created by Bulgari, but it will be produced by sister brand Zenith, creating an “ecosystem” for the LVMH watch brands. The Serpenti Tubogas Automatic with its distinctive flexible, looped bracelet Initial thoughts The Serpenti is iconic Bulgari, and the BVS100 is an interesting, albeit industrial and cost-efficient, movement. But the most interesting section in the announcement of the Serpenti Automatic wasn’t about the watches themselves, but the background of the calibre: “The BVS100… developed and currently produced by Bvlgari in Le Sentier, is expected to be included in the future catalog of in-house movements available to other LVMH group Maisons and to be manufactured by Zenith… Bvlgari is proud to contribute to the manufacturing ecosystem established by LVMH in support of Watchmaking excellence and craftsmanship in Switzerland.” The “catalog of in-house ...
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SJX Watches
Bulgari upgrades its signature snake-inspired watch with an all-new, in-house movement. Retaining the familiar oval case, the Serpenti Automatic debuts in two variants, the Serpenti Seduttori Automatic and Serpenti Tubogas Automatic, both equipped with the BVS100 calibre. A hint of where the LVMH watch brands are going, the BVS100 is a compact, workhorse automatic movement developed by Bulgari and slated to be produced by sister brand Zenith for other brands in the LVMH stable. Initial thoughts The historical Serpenti in enamel is arguably an iconic women’s watch, and the modern-day take on the design is bigger, bolder, and sports cleaner lines. While the Serpenti Seduttori is more subtle, the Tubogas version is especially compelling with its double-twirl bracelet that is classic Bulgari. The in-house movement is a worthy upgrade for this iconic design, although the movement is an industrial calibre rather than a high-end creation. That, however, is reflected in the relatively affordable price of the entry-level models, which start at about US$10,000. While the price is on the high side for a time-only watch with a straightforward automatic movement, it can be rationalised by the iconic design and excellent bracelet work, even on the base models. All-new movement The Serpenti Seduttori is offered in seven distinct variations - stainless steel, yellow gold, rose gold, rose gold two-tone, and white gold - with the option of diamond settings for the yellow gold and whit...
SJX Watches
Ming has unveiled the 37.09 Uni, the latest addition to its line of dive watches. Sharing the same architecture as its predecessor-the 37.09 Bluefin, the “Uni” has a black-and-orange aesthetic along with 600 m of water resistance. According to Ming, the livery of the 37.09 Uni takes inspiration from the sea urchin, uni in Japanese. The watch features a DLC-coated stainless steel case and an orange scaled on the inner sapphire dial that measures elapsed time. Initial thoughts I appreciate the distinctive Ming aesthetic with its signature flared lugs and minimalist here. Here it’s combined with a sapphire dial and subtle orange accents, and the result is appealing. The 37.09 Uni, however, costs CHF5,250, which is steep price tag for what it is. Although the overall execution is elaborate, it’s still a micro-brand dive watch equipped with an inexpensive (albeit customised) Sellita movement. While there was a moment during the pandemic where micro-brand offerings somehow made sense at various points of the price spectrum, due in part to the unavailability of everything else, but that time has passed. For Ming fans, the new diver is an appealing watch, but for everyone else there are alternatives. Uni Designed in the familiar Ming style, the DLC-coated stainless steel case is compact at 38 mm in diameter, though it has the height of a dive watch at 12.8 mm in thickness. Entirely matte brushed, the case sports a stepped bezel and domed sapphire crystal. Two oversized c...
Fratello
With TAG Heuer being the Official Timekeeper of Formula 1 again, the five versions of the new TAG Heuer Formula 1 Chronograph in titanium don’t come as a surprise. There are four regular mechanical chronograph models plus one tribute watch in cooperation with the Oracle Red Bull Racing F1 team. No, you’re not mistaken: we […] Visit Introducing: Five New Versions Of The TAG Heuer Formula 1 Chronograph In Titanium (Live Pics) to read the full article.
Worn & Wound
TAG Heuer has re-teamed with Porsche for a follow up to one of their most popular collaborations of the last few years. The new TAG Heuer Carrera Chronosprint x Porsche Rallye builds on the success of 2023’s TAG Heuer Carrera Chronosprint x Porsche, evolving the watch with a new dial and a few other changes to celebrate the 60th anniversary of the Porsche 911’s early success at the 1965 Monte Carlo Rally. The big selling point of the Chronosprint, which is based on the visual format established by the ‘Glassbox’ Carrera introduced in 2023, is the unique implementation of its chronograph. Where a traditional chronograph’s sweep seconds hand will move around the dial at an even pace, the Chronosprint’s chronograph hand jumps off the starting line, sweeping across a third of the dial in 9(.1) seconds, before slowing down over the next 49.9 seconds to cross the minute mark at, well, a minute, before speeding up again. It’s one of the rare watches I’ve encountered in recent memory that feels like it offers a genuinely unique take on what is otherwise a pretty standard complication. For the most part, this year’s Chronosprint is the same watch Zach introduced 18 months ago, save for a handful of aesthetic changes, inspired by the Porsche 911 “147” used for the 1965 Monte Carlo Rally. Foremost among these is that this year’s Chronosprint drops the silvered dial of the last model in favor of what TAG Heuer is calling a “Black Shimmery” dial. Basically, ...
Monochrome
Gerald Charles, the watch brand founded by the late watch designer Gérald Genta in 2000 and now in the hands of Federico Zivani, celebrates its 25th anniversary with two special editions of its flagship Maestro watch. As a brand that relies on one case design alone, it is surprising how much variety it has introduced […]
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WatchAdvice
It’s LVMH Watch Week and TAG Heuer has dropped a new Carrera Chronosprint – the Porsche Rallye in black. We went hands-on with it prior to the launch to see how the new variant handles. What We Love Good size for most wrists and wears slightly smaller than the specs suggest The unique chronograph movement is a bit of fun Vintage styling is a nice touch What We Don’t The bracelet could use more of a taper as well as a quick change option Still no screw-down crown on a 100m sports watch Setting an accurate reference time isn’t as easy due to the small minute track Overall Score 8.6 / 10 Value for Money: 8.5/10 Wearability: 8/10 Design: 9/10 Build Quality: 9/10 It’s no secret that TAG Heuer and Porsche share a long history, both in a shared name, the Carrera, stemming from the Carrera Panamericana race, as well as an association with each other. There have been numerous TAG Heuer x Porsche pieces over the years, but one of the more unique pieces was the Carrera Chronosprint x Porsche TAG Heuer, which was developed and launched in late 2023. We didn’t do a hands-on review on this piece at the time, more like a pseudo-review as we did have the watch for the day prior to launch and were able to play with it and see how it looked and wore on the wrist. We also showcased the strange, but cool way it tracks the time on the chronograph, mimicking the original Porsche 911’s time of 0-100km/h in 9.1 seconds using a specially designed snail gear in the chronograph mec...
Fratello
In December 2024, we published a review of the IWC RAAF pilot’s watch. This is a special timepiece that is only available to members of the Royal Australian Air Force (hence, RAAF). The overwhelming feedback I got through private messages as well as some of the comments on the article revealed a genuine frustration among […] Visit Historically Accurate Alternatives To IWC’s Modern Mark Series to read the full article.
Two Broke Watch Snobs
The uniform is uniform, but the watch remains an expressive blend of utility and aesthetic style unique to that military professional. Not exclusive to, but prevalent within the Special Operations community is the facilitation of relationships through common interests. The first SOF Truth states: “humans are more important than hardware”. For the Special Operations professional, people-not equipment, make the critical difference. Ironically, many of us are bonding over hardware…our watches.
Fratello
Welcome back to Fratello Talks, folks! What’s the best way to spend your hard-earned cash as a watch collector? Should you splurge on many or save for one special piece? One method satisfies curiosity and is fulfilling for some, but it can also leave you with your head spinning, a full watch box, and an […] Visit Fratello Talks: Splurge On Many Or Save For The One? to read the full article.
Worn & Wound
While I haven’t been doing “this” as long as some who have been in the watch media trenches since a time when you could reliably get a discount on a brand new Rolex at an authorized dealer, I’ve been doing it long enough to get a sense of the rhythms of a new release season. We are, as of yesterday, in the thick of it. LVMH Watch Week is the unofficial (but also kind of official) kick off of a new year in novelties from big luxury group brands, and within the confines of the LVMH experience there’s one tradition that stands out to me that’s become something I look forward to and get genuinely excited about: seeing what kind of crazy sapphire or SAXEM cased watch Hublot has come up with. Pretty reliably, on a year to year basis, Hublot shows us a wild and colorful and extremely expensive watch in an exotic, glass-adjacent material. This year, like clockwork, they’re back with the Big Bang Tourbillon Automatic Green SAXEM, a watch whose name is nearly doing my job for me. I’ve made no secret over the years of how much I enjoy these oversized, translucent watches. If I had to pick a favorite, it would probably be the purple sapphire Big Bang Tourbillon from 2022, but I’ll thank you in advance for not actually making me choose, because frankly these watches all do their thing equally well, and choosing the one you like best is like picking your favorite Coen Brothers movie. Some days it’s Fargo and on others it’s No Country for Old Men but maybe on Sunday...
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