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Monochrome
With all attention focused on Watches & Wonders Geneva 2025 last month (one of the most important industry events of the year), it’s important to remember that some very interesting events also take place in the United States, such as Windup Watch Fair and WatchTime New York. You won’t see the likes of Rolex or […]
SJX Watches
A. Lange & Söhne delivered one of its most impressive complications at Watches & Wonders 2025, but it was the brand’s entry level novelty that was the talk of the town. The 1815 34 mm won many admirers, and for good reason; it’s attractive, comfortable, well-made, and priced right – an increasingly rare combination. Available in either 18k white or pink gold, the new 1815 is a regular production model but features a galvanic blue dial most often associated with the brand’s limited editions. It joins the Saxonia Thin as Lange’s entry-level offering; both are priced comparably but look and feel very different. Initial thoughts Small watches are back, and the 1815 design works perfectly in the 34 mm size due to its bold numerals, which help it maintain a strong presence on the wrist. The case size now goes without saying, but it’s worth mentioning the 6.4 mm thickness, which places it among the brand’s thinnest watches. This sizing is effortlessly comfortable, and the abundance of gold, sterling silver, and German silver give it reassuring heft. Like most Lange dials, the stepped blue dial of the 1815 is made from sterling silver that’s been given a galvanic finish. This particular shade of blue is often used for limited editions like the 25th anniversary Datograph and 30th anniversary Lange 1, which makes it feel extra special. Longtime fans of the brand will recall this dial harks back to the first-generation 1815 that was available with a similar dial (and...
Monochrome
Last month, the Watches and Wonders Geneva 2025 fair was the occasion for us, and all watch enthusiasts, to discover the new collections of approximately 60 brands. As the successor to the SIHH, the Salon International de la Haute Horlogerie, most exhibiting brands are top-tier segment players. As fascinating as it is, there was not […]
Fratello
Doxa is back again with a new release! This time, it’s a variant of the popular and affordable Sub 200. The 42mm dive watch was released in 2019 at Baselworld, and this is the first major update. While in Geneva for Watches and Wonders and the adjacent events, we visited Doxa on our first night. […] Visit Introducing: The Doxa Sub 200 Polished Steel Bezel Collection to read the full article.
Time+Tide
First teased at Watches and Wonders 2025, this sporty motorsports chronograph is the first carbon fibre Tudor Black Bay ever.The post Tudor unveils its raciest Formula 1 watch yet, the Black Bay Chrono “Carbon 25” appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Teddy Baldassarre
When Rolex introduced its Oyster Perpetual Land-Dweller watch at Watches & Wonders 2025, some longtime fans of the brand experienced a bit of déja vu for a Rolex watch - and a Rolex era - that have been largely consigned to the mists of history. Why? Because the Land-Dweller's angular case and integrated-bracelet design reminded many enthusiasts of the Oysterquartz models introduced during the early heyday of quartz watches in the 1970s. That's correct: once upon a time, Rolex, one of the undisputed champions of luxury watches with mechanical movements, jumped on board the Quartz Revolution bandwagon and not only produced its own in-house quartz calibers but marketed the watches that housed them as the pinnacle of the Crown's timepiece portfolio at the time. Here is everything you need to know about the Rolex Oysterquartz and its quirky but significant place in horological history. Rolex Oysterquartz: The Early Days Of Electric Watches The wristwatch industry, like any other industry, is uber-competitive and every watchmaker wants to be the first to market with The Next Big Thing. In the 1950s and into the ‘60s, that Next Big Thing was a watch that could be powered by electricity. American companies like Hamilton, with the Ventura, and Bulova, with the Accutron, were among the pioneers, even though the movements that resulted from these early efforts proved to have difficulty maintaining reliability in mass production. The Japanese, particularly Seiko, took a diff...
Fratello
Longines has produced a massive variety of designs over its illustrious history. Today, we’re looking at a vintage watch from the brand that reflects the bold designs of the 1970s. One of the standout features of this year’s Watches and Wonders was the fact that many companies sought to offer bold, stand-out designs. Yes, there […] Visit Value In Vintage: A Longines Admiral Watch From The 1970s to read the full article.
Fratello
In true Watches and Wonders tradition, Patek Philippe graced us with a string of new introductions. The Genevan brand unveiled 14 new wrist watches and a unique desk clock this year. Among them, there are always standouts. The big release for this year was not a highly complicated timepiece or a new addition to the […] Visit Thoughts On The Patek Philippe Calatrava 8-Day Ref. 5328G to read the full article.
SJX Watches
Patek Philippe’s Complicated Desk Clock Ref. 27000M-001 is the biggest release of Watches & Wonders 2025, with a footprint of 164.6 by 125 mm, and rising to 76.73 mm at its apex. Priced at an even CHF1 million before taxes, the clock is powered by a key-wound, 31-day movement – incorporating a one-second remontoir d’egalite – housed in a wedge-shaped sterling silver cabinet, decorated with green flinqué enamel. Initial thoughts While we’ve seen desk and table clocks from others in the space, none have been as incredibly high-effort as this. Patek Philippe claims the 912-part shaped caliber took seven years of development, including nine patent applications. That’s quite the investment in a product with limited mainstream appeal, and I find it reassuring that Patek Philippe is still willing to make those investments. The enamel work is enchanting and has precedent in early 20th-century silver travel clocks retailed by Cartier, among others. I could take or leave the baroque styling, but the dial and hidden “dashboard” look fantastic. I hope Patek Philippe will offer this movement in other styles down the road. If you’ve never experienced a key-winding watch or clock, it’s quite satisfying; I wouldn’t call it fun, but it’s not something you’re likely to get sick of. It’s an experience you can’t get with Patek Philippe’s other current production clocks, which use an electric motor to wind the movement without need of human intervention. The b...
SJX Watches
In the run up to Watches & Wonders 2025, many commentators expected a breakout year for the GMT-Master II, since it’s the 80th year of the collection. But Rolex took things in a different direction and dominated headlines by launching the Land-Dweller instead. But Rolex didn’t forget about its signature travel watch, and debuted two new precious metal models. The first is the GMT-Master II ref. 126729VTNR, which is in 18k white gold with a left-handed crown and a green ceramic dial; a first for Rolex. The second is the GMT-Master II ref. 126715CHNR in Everose that brings a new dial material to Rolex, tiger iron, one of the oldest minerals on Earth. Both models are available exclusively with an Oyster bracelet in matching 18k gold. The “lefty” with its glossy green ceramic dial Initial thoughts I admit to being laser-focused on the Land-Dweller during Watches & Wonders; the new movement technology captured (and held) my attention throughout the event. But I still made time to check out the GMT-Master II collection, which was one of my favourite Rolex collections at one point in time. Naturally, both of these new references exude quality, which can be experienced directly in the smooth operation of the bezel and the decisive action of the clasp. The watches are decadent, heavy, and show that Rolex has not run out of ideas for interesting dials. In the case of the green ceramic dial in the “destro” variant, I think we can expect to see this material used more wide...
Fratello
It’s Sunday again, and for our showdown this week, we set up a clash between two polarizing watches that inspire no shortage of fervid opinions. First, there is the brand-new Rolex Land-Dweller that the brand unveiled during Watches and Wonders a few weeks back. It goes up against the much-debated Patek Philippe Cubitus, which debuted […] Visit Sunday Morning Showdown: Rolex Land-Dweller 127336 Vs. Patek Philippe Cubitus 7128/1G to read the full article.
Fratello
Panerai moves quickly! After a busy Watches and Wonders 2025, there’s already another new release. The Luminor GMT Power Reserve Ceramica was announced with the brand’s official timekeeping role at the Salone del Mobile. This is Milan’s Design Week, and the event is the world’s largest furniture show. Furniture may sound like a funny connection […] Visit Introducing: The Panerai Luminor GMT Power Reserve Ceramica PAM01574 to read the full article.
SJX Watches
Bulgari made its debut at Watches & Wonders this year, having previously exhibited outside the fair. It was a fitting occasion to launch the Octo Finissimo Ultra Tourbillon, the thinnest tourbillon watch ever at just 1.85 mm thick. Housed in the brand’s signature matte grey titanium case and limited to just 20 pieces, the Ultra Tourbillon is paired with an equally thin and silky titanium bracelet. Bulgari is deeply invested in its leadership in ultra-thin watchmaking, and the Ultra Tourbillon shows the brand is willing to do whatever it takes to own as many records in this field as possible. Initial thoughts Despite its record-breaking slimness, there was surprisingly little buzz about the Ultra at Watches & Wonders. This may be due to record fatigue, since the previous record was set just last year by the Piaget AUC Tourbillon. It could also be due to the diminishing returns of these types of records, which are now being broken by almost imperceptible margins. On its exterior, the Ultra Tourbillon is quite similar the 1.7 mm-thick Octo Finissimo Ultra introduced last year. It features a 40 mm case made from a combination of titanium and tungsten carbide, and is impressively open-worked, revealing just about every wheel and pinion on the dial side of the watch. But this watch is all about the headline figure of its 1.85 mm thickness, which endows the Ultra Tourbillon with a delicate, almost weightless feel. The case in profile. Image – Bulgari Like all ultra-thin recor...
Fratello
About three weeks have passed since this year’s Watches and Wonders, so it’s time to reflect on some of the great introductions we saw during the fair. It’s easiest to divide these into two groups. The first are the watches we admire from a distance, meaning they will likely never be part of our collections […] Visit Getting A Perspective On The New Tudor Black Bay Pro With The White Opaline Dial to read the full article.
Fratello
Chopard had another great showing at Watches and Wonders this year. The brand garnered much praise with the new L.U.C Quattro Mark IV series. It’s another brilliant addition to Chopard’s lineup that will draw in excited buyers for the two new models as well as spark many enthusiasts to explore the past L.U.C Quattro collections. This […] Visit The Great Versatility Of The Chopard Alpine Eagle As Demonstrated By Its Two Latest Models to read the full article.
SJX Watches
Patek Philippe came to Watches & Wonders 2025 with a deep bench of strong new releases, but for fans of the classic Calatrava, the standout was without question the Calatrava Ref. 6196P-001. It’s an easy watch to love, with good proportions, a hefty 38 mm platinum case, a lively “salmon” dial, and is powered by the brand’s latest generation movement. Though the brand was arguably overshadowed this year by its suburban Geneva neighbors Rolex and Vacheron Constantin, at lower and higher ends of the price spectrum, respectively, Patek Philippe demonstrated its ability to deliver in every category, from simple dress and sport watches to mid and high complications. Initial thoughts In February 2017 I was asked what I wished to see from Baselworld that year. I said I’d like to see a successor to the ref. 5196 with a case-filling movement and a large balance. Eight years later, Patek Philippe delivered more or less exactly what I imagined, keeping the proportions and details of the classic Calatrava with a more advanced movement than the outdated cal. 215 that was used at the time. So in a sense, this watch was made for me. But I had not anticipated a “salmon” dial. Officially labelled “rose-gilt opaline” by Patek Philippe, such dials have become popular among collectors, and are now a staple across the Patek Philippe collection. Naturally, a vivid colour like this helps an otherwise simple watch stand out, but personally I look forward to more toned down iter...
Fratello
It’s Sunday morning, so it’s time for a cup of coffee and a new installment of Sunday Morning Showdown. This week, we continue the series with another watch unveiled during Watches and Wonders. The most talked-about Tudor release was, without a doubt, the new Pelagos Ultra. This new beefed-up and modernized version of the regular […] Visit Sunday Morning Showdown: Tudor Pelagos Vs. Pelagos Ultra to read the full article.
Fratello
There were plenty of standout releases at Watches and Wonders 2025, but one watch keeps coming up in my memories. The Arnold & Son Constant Force Tourbillon 11 was a delight in the metal. Plus, the reason for the watch centers on a story with actual meaning. Watch companies indeed find a reason to celebrate […] Visit Introducing: The Arnold & Son Constant Force Tourbillon 11 to read the full article.
Fratello
Rolex surprised friend and foe with a new movement at this year’s Watches and Wonders. While that’s always a relatively big deal in our little horological sub-universe, caliber 7135 represents a particularly big milestone. Rolex developed a brand-new escapement dubbed Dynapulse. We felt it was about time we took a closer look at it. Of […] Visit An In-Depth Look At The New Rolex Dynapulse Escapement to read the full article.
Worn & Wound
A few months back I was given an opportunity to get a little preview of Zenith’s Watches & Wonders novelties in New York. More and more brands do this every year – it’s a great help to those of us in the media charged with photographing and writing about dozens upon dozens of new releases that all appear in the span of a few hours on an April morning in Geneva. So photographer Garrett Jones and I made our way to meet with our Zenith press contacts in midtown Manhattan, not knowing for sure what we’d see. In short order, the bright blue ceramic “Chronograph Trilogy” anniversary models were unveiled. In discussing the watches I casually mentioned that these would probably be a big hit at Watches & Wonders, and I must have inferred that these three watches would be this year’s halo pieces for the brand. I was quickly corrected, and told that there was something else coming that Zenith was holding back – the first watch in an entirely new collection – that would be a big surprise as we got closer to its release. I didn’t even try to elicit a hint about what it might be – I was happy to be surprised. Eventually the press release for the new G.F.J. hit my inbox, and I was indeed surprised. While Zenith, as a brand, has always been quite chronometry forward, I had gotten into the habit of thinking of them as a sports watch brand. Yes, the movements are very good, but lots of brands have very good movements. I admit that the yearslong focus on building out ...
Fratello
In the weeks leading up to Watches and Wonders 2025, we saw leaks related to a new Rolex watch called the Land-Dweller. The idea sent people into a tizzy. Here was a watch with a strange name and a familiar case. But was it real? Just after midnight on April 1st, we learned that the […] Visit Hands-On With A Trio Of Rolex Land-Dweller Models to read the full article.
Deployant
We caught up with Bell & Ross CEO, Carlos Rosillo in Watches & Wonders recently and talked to him about his nevelties and plans for the future. Video.
Fratello
This year, many brands are celebrating different milestones. One of the most relevant anniversaries in 2025 is Zenith’s 160th, which you probably read about during Watches and Wonders. Although it is a significant milestone, Zenith treated us to a very select number of anniversary models during the fair. I can greatly appreciate that because it […] Visit A Closer Look At The Brand-New Zenith G.F.J. 160th-Anniversary Model to read the full article.
SJX Watches
One of the most beautiful, albeit not particularly novel, debuts at Watches & Wonders recently was the Patek Philippe Ref. 5370R-001 Split-Seconds Chronograph with a two-tone grand feu enamel dial in brown and cream. It’s merely a new variant of a longstanding model, but it is striking. Prior versions were in platinum with a black and then blue enamel dial; this is the first model in rose gold and perhaps the first-ever modern-day Patek Philippe with a multi-part, two-tone enamel dial. Design aside, the ref. 5370R retains the same specs and movement as its predecessors. Initial thoughts I usually don’t like brown dials, and the ref. 5370R is merely a cosmetic tweak. The movement remains the same CHR 29-535 PS that is good looking and contains some clever technical features, but its decoration could be a little more artisanal for the price. Overall, the ref. 5370R isn’t fundamentally new. And despite being in rose gold, it’s even more expensive than its predecessors in platinum, with a retail price crossing US$300,000. Being a Patek Philippe, the ref. 5370R is expensive, in the same manner that Ferrari and Hermes can charge more than the competition. But despite so much going against it, the ref. 5370R is one of the few watches that has remained in my memory in the weeks after W&W;. It is simply that beautiful. As the saying goes, if I could, I would. The new ref. 5370 looks classical yet modern, and still captures the old school Patek Philippe aesthetic. The two-ton...
Fratello
Over the last two weeks, we’ve spent much time with the new Panerai Luminor Marina collection. Today’s watch, the Titanio PAM03325, visited our headquarters for a comprehensive photo shoot. We saw it again, and the rest of the collection, at Watches and Wonders 2025 a week later. Suffice it to say, the changes to the […] Visit Hands-On With The Panerai Luminor Marina Titanio PAM03325 to read the full article.
Fratello
The Patek Philippe Calatrava 6196P was a surprise at Watches and Wonders 2025. It’s been a long time since the brand introduced a clean, simple watch at a big annual show like this, and it was welcome. Today, we’ll take a closer look at this gem. For Patek Philippe, 2024 was the year of double […] Visit Hands-On With The Patek Philippe Calatrava 6196P to read the full article.
Fratello
One of the understated hits this year at Watches and Wonders was the 34mm A. Lange & Söhne 1815. If this is the peak of the trend for slight watches, then we “small-wristers” have been well rewarded. Today, we’ll take a closer look at the two variants of this charming dress watch. The longstanding 38.5mm […] Visit Hands-On With The 34mm A. Lange & Söhne 1815 to read the full article.
Fratello
It’s time for our first Sunday Morning Showdown after the craziness of Watches and Wonders 2025. As you can guess, we will create new matchups based on the watches introduced in Geneva. These provide us with plenty of picks for the upcoming weeks. In this first post-Watches and Wonders matchup, Mike and Jorg go head […] Visit Sunday Morning Showdown: Rolex 1908 Yellow Gold Vs. Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Monoface Small Seconds Pink Gold to read the full article.
Fratello
Just when the watch world is beginning to settle into the quiet post-Watches and Wonders pace, Blancpain shakes things up by introducing a version of its 42mm Fifty Fathoms in steel. Recently, I had the pleasure of spending some time with the 42mm Blancpain Fifty Fathoms in titanium. Now the brand has introduced a new […] Visit Introducing: A 42mm Blancpain Fifty Fathoms Automatique In Steel to read the full article.
Worn & Wound
A. Lange & Söhne never does half-measures, especially at Watches & Wonders. For 2025, they announced three new models, but a total of four watches: the Saxonia Minute Repeater Perpetual, the Honey Gold Odysseus, and the 1815 in 34mm in rose and white gold. So, one super complicated piece with a ton of features. One rare piece in an exceptional presentation. And two sublimely proportioned everyday watches (in ALS terms). While all were exceptional, the latter of the three left the biggest impression, despite being the smallest in stature. With a name like Minute Repeater Perpetual, there’s not much mystery about what this watch does, but in true Lange fashion, it’s the elegance with which it does it that’s so special. And, naturally, we have to start with movement. The new caliber L122.2 consists of 640 parts and is meticulously finished to the standards one expects from Lange. In somewhat of a departure from their norm, the untreated Glashütte ¾ plate features a frosted finish instead of Glashütte ribbing. Though the result might appear more straightforward, we were told it makes assembly more complicated, and the resulting even surface puts more attention on the governor, black polished hammers, and encircling gongs, not to mention the free-hand engraved balance cock. It does not just look impressive, however, as there are some clever mechanical tricks at play, too, namely regarding the repeater. The typical sequence of chimes includes first single chimes per ...
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