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FRIDAY WIND DOWN: Perezcope Holmes and the case of the Franken Paul Newman Daytona Time+Tide
Sep 24, 2021

FRIDAY WIND DOWN: Perezcope Holmes and the case of the Franken Paul Newman Daytona

As Will Ferrell’s character Jacobim Mugatu in Zoolander would say about Hansel, vintage watches are “so hot right now”. Many collectors naturally have a greater appreciation for vintage pieces – watches that inspire many of the modern re-interpretations we see throughout the marketplace today. I read once that vintage watch dealer Matthew Bain remembers when … ContinuedThe post FRIDAY WIND DOWN: Perezcope Holmes and the case of the Franken Paul Newman Daytona appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Ulysse Nardin Introduces Classico The Hour Glass Ginza 25th Anniversary SJX Watches
Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle Tourbillon Sep 17, 2021

Ulysse Nardin Introduces Classico The Hour Glass Ginza 25th Anniversary

A mainstay of the luxury-watch scene in Tokyo for a quarter century, The Hour Glass in Ginza is the only Japanese outpost of the Singapore-based watch retailer. Led since its opening by watch veteran Atsushi Momoi, the store in the posh shopping district recently reopened after a makeover, just in time for its 25th anniversary. To mark the occasion, the store commissioned a pair of limited-edition models, including the Ulysse Nardin Classico The Hour Glass Ginza 25th Anniversary (and the other a Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle Tourbillon in platinum). The newly-revamped store in Ginza Initial thoughts Unsurprisingly given the experience of Mr Momoi and his team, the Ginza anniversary edition has an appealing, classical aesthetic characterised by a strong attention to detail. In fact, despite its simplicity, the dial is replete with elegant, smart details. One of the most subtle is the fact that “Swiss made” sits on the minute track, streamlining the dial. And it goes without saying the date has been removed. And illustrating the discretion often prized by Japanese clientele, the most expensive upgrade to the watch is hidden – the 22k gold rotor on the back. Sophisticated, classical style While UN typically favours Roman numerals on its watches, the Ginza anniversary edition is executed in a style that is decidedly classical, reflecting the taste of the Japanese consumer. The dial is “salmon” in tone and finished with a radial guilloche, with applied Breguet n...

There’s a new watch magazine in town. The best part? It won’t cost you a cent… Time+Tide
Aug 26, 2021

There’s a new watch magazine in town. The best part? It won’t cost you a cent…

With the rise of social media and its symbiotic relationship with watches, much of what we consume regarding horology is found online. But just as a hardcover book will always have a greater appeal than a Kindle, there is something really special about physical watch magazines. Whether gracing the surface of a coffee table, or … ContinuedThe post There’s a new watch magazine in town. The best part? It won’t cost you a cent… appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

‘The Persistence Of Memory’: Online Museum And Ode To Independent Watchmaking Quill & Pad
Aug 20, 2021

‘The Persistence Of Memory’: Online Museum And Ode To Independent Watchmaking

The “great lockdown of 2020” gifted us with something outstanding: from the depths of an anxiety-inducing existence arose an online exhibition called “The Persistence of Memory,” which can be described as an !online museum" honoring some of the most influential and important independent watchmakers of the modern era. Here Elizabeth Doerr speaks with its creator Michael Tay for an inside view on what this "exhibition" surveying 50 years of independent watchmaking is. And what it isn't.

People are losing their minds about the way Bezos wore his Speedy in ‘space’, but the truth may be even sadder Time+Tide
Jul 21, 2021

People are losing their minds about the way Bezos wore his Speedy in ‘space’, but the truth may be even sadder

Over a quarter of a million people agreed with meme accounts like the one below when they declared that Bezos’ NATO over outer suit style was “the most f*cked up thing” he has ever done. The truth, however, may be even sadder (or cuter, depending on your viewpoint) than just an unfortunate styling faux pas. … ContinuedThe post People are losing their minds about the way Bezos wore his Speedy in ‘space’, but the truth may be even sadder appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

VIDEO: The IWC Pilot’s collection offers fresh sizes and a wider array of choice Time+Tide
IWC Pilot’s collection offers fresh Jul 8, 2021

VIDEO: The IWC Pilot’s collection offers fresh sizes and a wider array of choice

Last year, IWC focused on revamping their impressive Portugieser line. In 2021, it’s the turn of the IWC Pilot’s collection that’s expanded to offer greater choice than ever before with a veritable squadron of new pieces. Highlights include a new Big Pilot that’s downsized from the slightly intimidating 46mm to a more wearable 43mm option. … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: The IWC Pilot’s collection offers fresh sizes and a wider array of choice appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

If you could only bring one: The 6 best watches to take on holiday for every budget Time+Tide
Doxa SUB 300 Carbon Aqua Jul 3, 2021

If you could only bring one: The 6 best watches to take on holiday for every budget

Let’s clarify this at the outset. Best is obviously subjective, and if you read my story on how the DOXA SUB 300 Carbon Aqua Lung US Divers Limited Edition was the perfect vacation watch for my recent trip to Aruba you may already be familiar with my personal criteria. To recap, I try to only … ContinuedThe post If you could only bring one: The 6 best watches to take on holiday for every budget appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Public service announcement: How to buy a watch if you’re stuck in the Sydney lockdown Time+Tide
Jun 29, 2021

Public service announcement: How to buy a watch if you’re stuck in the Sydney lockdown

Much like the many-headed Hydra that Hercules was sent to kill in the Greek legends, the coronavirus pandemic is a beast that just won’t go away. Just when one head has been cut off, two more grow back in its place. As a result of this multifaceted challenge, greater Sydney (as well as several other … ContinuedThe post Public service announcement: How to buy a watch if you’re stuck in the Sydney lockdown appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Greubel Forsey Goes Green with Plant-Based Straps SJX Watches
Greubel Forsey Goes Green Jun 29, 2021

Greubel Forsey Goes Green with Plant-Based Straps

Best known for its ultra-exotic tourbillon wristwatches, Greubel Forsey has just made a surprise announcement: the brand will be permanently eliminating animal leather straps for its timepieces, instead replacing them with straps made of plant-based materials starting next year. While not the first brand turning towards sustainable alternatives to animal leather  – Swatch and Cartier did so earlier this year – Greubel Forsey is the first to undergo a complete transition, doing away with animal hides entirely. And with its most affordable watch still carrying a six-figure US dollar price, Greubel Forsey is certainly the only brand at the top end of the market doing so. More broadly, the luxury-watch industry has been making slower progress than the luxury-car industry, which has speedily moved on to greener materials for interiors. That is perhaps driven in part by the fact that traditional carmakers are already regarded as major polluters, with upstarts like Tesla accelerating away. Giants such as Bentley and Mercedes-Benz now rely on specialists like Dinamica and Vegea for leather replacements that are actually recycled paper and plant-based material respectively. That’s proof that a similar pivot for watchmakers is achievable, which is the opinion of Greubel Forsey chief executive Antonio Calce. “The technical offer for plant-based straps is mature,” noted Mr Calce in the announcement, “And our clients are by nature forward-thinking and welcoming of innovati...

Vintage Watch Snobbery – Reprise Quill & Pad
Patek Philippe had ever created – Jun 6, 2021

Vintage Watch Snobbery – Reprise

Standing before What Makes Me Tick's eyes was the most perfect of God’s creatures, a wonderful mix of Audrey Hepburn and Penelope Cruz. He thought his heart had skipped a beat, and he heard the chimes of every single minute repeater Patek Philippe had ever created – all chiming at exactly the same time! Six months later the gentle creature and he were married. This extraordinary story reflects the marvelous world of vintage watches: finding the rare bird, linking it to a story, and never letting it go.

Richard Habring’s Personal IWC Portugieser Split-Seconds Chronograph Prototype Ref. 3712 At Phillips Geneva Watch Auction XII: A Unique Piece Of Horological History Quill & Pad
IWC Portugieser Split-Seconds Chronograph Prototype May 1, 2021

Richard Habring’s Personal IWC Portugieser Split-Seconds Chronograph Prototype Ref. 3712 At Phillips Geneva Watch Auction XII: A Unique Piece Of Horological History

Lot 165 at Phillips' Geneva Watch Auction: XIII on May 8-9, 2021 is one of the most important prototypes in the history of IWC. A true rarity and a true piece of watch history. It is Richard Habring’s personal Portugieser Split-Seconds Chronograph prototype. Elizabeth Doerr shares its history and meaning here. And why its creator is parting with it.

Torsti Laine Introduces the G3 and V38 SJX Watches
Apr 19, 2021

Torsti Laine Introduces the G3 and V38

A Finnish watchmaker in Switzerland, Torsti Laine has become known for his affordable watches with custom-made dials and attractively modified Unitas movements. Now he is simultaneously unveiling his next generation of watches. One is the Laine G3, an improved version of his bestselling model that’s now available with dials comprised of various materials. It continues to be powered by a Unitas calibre, but now even more elaborately decorated with relief engraving on the three-quarter plate. And the second is the Laine V38, an entirely new model that’s smaller and slimmer thanks to the automatic Vaucher VMF 5401 inside. Like the G3, it will be offered with a variety of mix-material dials. The LA18.1 with its new three-quarter plate decoration Initial thoughts Appealing for the high level of customisation and good finishing, Mr Laine’s watches have long been an accessible yet respectable entry into the world of independent watchmaking. His new models continue to offer the qualities that made his earlier watches a success, while adding a bit more to the mix in terms of finishing and choice. The variety of dial styles and materials will be the biggest selling point, while the new movement engraving might be unnecessarily fancy. The V38, in particular, is something that Mr Laine never offered before in terms of size, which should make it the most appealing to buyers wanting something more classically sized. The V38 With the G3 starting at CHF8,500, the new models are more...

Christie’s Debuts Online Classes on Major Watch Brands SJX Watches
Vacheron Constantin Mar 18, 2021

Christie’s Debuts Online Classes on Major Watch Brands

Christie’s Education, the learning division of the auction house, has just launched Behind the Curtain: Watchmaking Houses, a series of virtual classes catered to beginner enthusiasts that profile the most important watch brands – essentially the names that are typically the most sought after at watch auctions. Conducted by Geneva-based watch expert Antoine Géraud, the weekly courses cover the history, important watches, and key personalities at Patek Phillipe, Rolex, Audemars Piguet, Breguet, Vacheron Constantin, and Cartier. Each lecture is 75 minutes, and recordings of each session will be available for seven days after the class should participants wish to revisit. The programme is essentially a crash course, making it ideal for beginners who want to learn more about key brands. And the length of the lectures seems ideal – punchy and brief, but enough to convey the necessary knowledge. The Patek Philippe ref. 5101P 10 Day Tourbillon Alongside the watch history classes is a separate programme covering the biggest names in jewellery, taught by historian Vanessa Cron. Just like the watch classes, these will go into the stories behind names like Van Cleef & Arpels, Tiffany & Co., Bulgari, and Cartier. With jewellers often being watchmakers as well, burgeoning watch enthusiasts might find the jewellery classes useful too. An Audemars Piguet Grand Complication pocket watch that sold at Christie’s in 2019 The price of a single class is HK$1,200, or about US$150. The ...

INTRODUCING: The Bulgari Octo Finissimo S Chronograph GMT is sportier and tougher with a panda dial Time+Tide
Bulgari Octo Finissimo S Chronograph Jan 24, 2021

INTRODUCING: The Bulgari Octo Finissimo S Chronograph GMT is sportier and tougher with a panda dial

Last year, the time-only Octo Finissimo watches received a major upgrade in the form of a screw-down crown and improved depth rating of 100 metres. They also received contrasting finishes to the highly faceted surfaces of the case and bracelet. This resulted in a greater play with light and a watch that became both more … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Bulgari Octo Finissimo S Chronograph GMT is sportier and tougher with a panda dial appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

What super-collector Roni Madhvani thinks about the steel sports watch craze Time+Tide
Audemars Piguet Jan 6, 2021

What super-collector Roni Madhvani thinks about the steel sports watch craze

Roni Madhvani is one of the biggest vintage watch aficionados on the planet. His Instagram page – @roni_m_29 – is the stuff of legend and showcases his treasure trove of some of the rarest and most eccentric timepieces from the likes of Patek Philippe, Audemars Piguet and Cartier. Conspicuously, however, it’s one of the few … ContinuedThe post What super-collector Roni Madhvani thinks about the steel sports watch craze appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Auction Watch: Vacheron Constantin Tour de l’Ile Grand Complication SJX Watches
Vacheron Constantin Tour de l’Ile Grand Dec 29, 2020

Auction Watch: Vacheron Constantin Tour de l’Ile Grand Complication

Taking place at the end of the third week of January 2021, the first major international watch auction is Antiquorum’s Important Modern & Vintage Timepieces in Monaco. The 304-lot auction will be capped by an appropriately major watch – the very first Vacheron Constantin Tour de l’Île Grand Complication that was produced for the watchmaker’s 250th anniversary in 2005. First sold for 1.88 million Swiss francs at the Quarter Millennium of Vacheron Constantin thematic auction staged by Antiquorum and Vacheron Constantin in April 2005, the Tour de l’Ile was one of the first mega-complications of the modern era. When the Tour de l’Ile was launched, the Patek Philippe Sky Moon Tourbillon ref. 5002 was only three years old, the Lange Tourbograph had yet to be launched, and Greubel Forsey had only been founded a year earlier. At its launch, the Tour de l’Ile was billed as the world’s most complicated wristwatch – and also became the most expensive wristwatch sold at auction – thanks to its 16 complications displayed on two faces in a case 47 mm wide and almost 18 mm tall. Named after the location of Vacheron Constantin’s workshop in the 18th and 19th centuries – Tour de l’Ile literally translates as “tower on the island” – the wristwatch is powered by the 834-component cal. 2750. It features a minute repeater, perpetual calendar with moon phase, star chart, celestial annual calendar, tourbillon, sunrise and sunset times, equation of time, power...

Celebrating 175 Years Of Watchmaking In Glashütte: 12 Extraordinary, Inventive Movement Finishing Techniques, Decoration Styles, And Technology Quill & Pad
Dec 2, 2020

Celebrating 175 Years Of Watchmaking In Glashütte: 12 Extraordinary, Inventive Movement Finishing Techniques, Decoration Styles, And Technology

Over the course of 175 years in Glashütte, Germany, some of the noblest elements of fine watchmaking were invented, including the flying tourbillon, the duplex swan-neck fine adjustment, and the three-quarter plate, setting these Germanic masterpieces apart from the venerable art of Swiss watchmaking. Here Sabine Zwettler explains 12 magnificent decorative and technical elements of the Glashütte art of fine watchmaking.

Highlights: Phillips Geneva Watch Auction XII SJX Watches
Audemars Piguet perpetual calendar Nov 6, 2020

Highlights: Phillips Geneva Watch Auction XII

Taking place over two days – Friday, November 6 and Saturday, November 7 – The Geneva Watch Auction: XII at Phillips is the first sale of the fall auction season. A compact sale of under 180 lots, the auction comprises a diverse line up, ranging from the obviously notable – like a Cartier Crash in platinum and a unique Patek Philippe ref. 5020P – to the obscure but extremely interesting, like the postwar A. Lange & Söhne wristwatch made after the company had been nationalised by the Soviets, as well as a vintage Audemars Piguet perpetual calendar with a paradoxical brand-new but factory-original case. Here’s a look at handful of standouts from the sale. You’ll find the full catalogue, as well as online bidding, right here. Lot 31 – Patek Philippe Annual Calendar Regulator ref. 5235G Unlike many of the other watches in the auction, the ref. 5235G is neither rare nor complicated, or even especially valuable. But it is an under-appreciated gem in Patek Philippe’s line up. Lightly designed and full of unusual details – ranging from the brushed dial finish to the engraved logo at three – the ref. 5235 also boasts a distinctively-designed movement unique to this reference and found in no other model. This example of the ref. 5235 is in white gold, which was discontinued last year and replaced by the same in rose gold with a black dial. While the new version is far more striking, the almost monochromatic white gold version is deeply appealing in its simplici...

10 of the best sports watches of 2020 under $10K, including Seiko, Longines and Bulgari Time+Tide
Longines Nov 6, 2020

10 of the best sports watches of 2020 under $10K, including Seiko, Longines and Bulgari

Sports watches have established themselves as the most sought-after and worn watches in the world. With a greater emphasis on outdoor activity and physical health, consumers need timepieces that can keep up with their active lifestyles. There has been no shortage of divers and chronographs this year, so we have compiled the best sports watches … ContinuedThe post 10 of the best sports watches of 2020 under $10K, including Seiko, Longines and Bulgari appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Anicorn and NASA must have created the Mars Time when they were seriously spaced out … Time+Tide
Aug 8, 2020

Anicorn and NASA must have created the Mars Time when they were seriously spaced out …

Watchmaker Anicorn has teamed up with the most important space exploration outfit on the planet(s), NASA, to create a brand new watch that aims to celebrate the Perseverance Rover touching down in Jezero Crater on Mars. And the results? Ladies and gentleman, we bring you the most bizarre watch of 2020. Called the Mars Time, … ContinuedThe post Anicorn and NASA must have created the Mars Time when they were seriously spaced out … appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

RGM Watch Company: American In-House Manufacturing Case Study – Reprise Quill & Pad
RGM Jul 25, 2020

RGM Watch Company: American In-House Manufacturing Case Study – Reprise

Since its beginning, RGM has created dials and movement components to manufacture its watches. Over the years, the brand has expanded its capabilities bit by bit, adding machinery, technology, and personnel in an effort to have greater control over production and to expand its design and engineering options. Follow us on a tour of the RGM workshop in Mount Joy, Pennsylvania.