Hodinkee
Hands-On: The Vacheron Constantin 222 Is The Greatest Thing Since Sliced Bread, Which Isn't All That Great But You Get The Idea
Come for the case, stay for the bracelet.
Results for Integrated Bracelet
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Hodinkee
SJX Watches
Rolex Introduces the Revamped Air King Ref. 126900
In a teaser before Watches & Wonders 2022, Rolex published a partial image of a watch with a smooth, fixed bezel and crown guards – a combination of features found in no current model at the time. It was the all-new Air King ref. 126900 that gained a redesigned case and dial as well as a new bracelet and an upgraded movement. In other words, an entirely different watch, yet one that has the same spirit as its predecessor. Initial thoughts Conceptually, the Air-King is very novel for Rolex (just like the left-handed GMT-Master II) since it is the first Rolex to combine both a smooth bezel and crown guards. But it is still typically Rolex in its substantive upgrades meant to improve practicality and wearability. For instance, removing the soft iron inner cage means the case is flatter and sits better on the wrist. The new reference is powered by the cal. 3230 equipped by Rolex’s proprietary blue Parachrom hairspring. This increases magnetism resistance while helping boost power reserve to about 70 hours, an upgrade from the 48 hours of the cal. 3131 found in the outgoing model. Overall, the revamp of the Air-King is more practical than aesthetic since the look largely remains intact, although the watch does feel a bit more sculpted and refined. Having had the opportunity to experience the actual watch, it looks and feels excellent on the wrist. Thoroughly updated All of the design tweaks to the Air-King serve to make it more sporty. The highlight is certainly the crow...
Revolution
Grand Seiko Debuts the Kodo Constant-force Tourbillon
Grand Seiko’s Kodo Constant-force Tourbillon represents a stunning mechanical achievement that sees the constant force mechanism integrated into the tourbillon cage.
Revolution
Vacheron Constantin Finally Launches An All-Titanium Overseas
Vacheron Constantin finally launches an all titanium Overseas watch, case and bracelet at Watches & Wonders 2022
SJX Watches
Omega Introduces the Hand-Wind Speedmaster ’57
A modern take on Omega’s first-ever Speedmaster from 1957, the aptly named Speedmaster ’57 has just been facelifted and upgraded. What was originally a two-counter, automatic chronograph is now a two-counter, manual-wind chronograph. Its aesthetics have been refined, including with a smaller case, coloured dials, and a better bracelet, while the insides have been upgrade with a METAS-certified movement. Initial thoughts While the new Speedmaster ’57 might seem identical to its predecessor that was introduced almost a decade ago, it is entirely different. The latest release retains the same retro style with its “Broad Arrow” hands, straight lugs, and flat-link bracelet, but everything else has been redesigned. Continuing Omega’s stylistic direction for 2022, the new Speedmaster ’57 is offered in bright, metallic-finish dials, including a fashionable olive green. It also encapsulates consumers’ preference for a smaller and thinner case, as well as a quick-adjustment clasp, which will certainly improve wearability. But the biggest surprise comes courtesy of the movement. While the cal. 9300 in the earlier model was automatic, the cal. 9906 in the new model is hand-wind, which results in a slightly thinner case that’s 12.99 mm. With its evocation of vintage chronographs, the hand-wind movement leaves the date feeling somewhat out of place, since it’s a complication traditionally associated with practicality instead of good, old-fashioned aesthetics. At U...
Time+Tide
INTRODUCING: The Seiko 5 Sports x Worn & Wound 10th Anniversary Limited Edition
Seiko loves to celebrate anniversaries. The 140th anniversary of the Seiko Corporation brought forth a ton of commemorative limited-edition novelties, for both the Seiko and Grand Seiko brands, each celebrating the rich history of the vertically integrated manufacture. But today’s new Seiko limited edition, while celebrating an anniversary, is not for their own. In honour … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Seiko 5 Sports x Worn & Wound 10th Anniversary Limited Edition appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Hodinkee
Introducing: The Czapek Antarctique Is All About Texture
On the case and bracelet, and also on the dial.
SJX Watches
Recommended Reading: The In-Depth Guide to the F. P. Journe Octa Chronographe
A short-lived model in production for just a few years – it was replaced by the Centigraphe in 2008 – the Octa Chronographe was nevertheless one of F.P. Journe’s most intriguing offerings in technical terms. While based on the standard cal. 1300 found in the simpler Octa models, the chronograph movement utilised a stopwatch mechanism integrated into the base plate under the dial. In other words, the chronograph was integrated but located where a modular setup would typically be. As a result the Chronographe remained the same height as less complex Octa models (though that thinness would cause a variety of problems with the functionality, especially with the date). Its technical details – which vary across generations – are just one aspect of the watch detailed in A Collector’s Guide for the Octa Chronographe by F. P. Journe by Shawn Mehta, founder of independent watchmaking merchant Watch4Moi. (At the same time it’s worth revisiting the guide to the F.P. Journe Tourbillon Remontoir d’Egalite that I wrote in 2016, making it one of the first-ever Journe “guides”.) Octa Chronographe no. 001 that sold at Phillips in November last year Though the first in numerical sequence, it was not actually the first example produced as indicated by its details Unlike many recent “guides” that rely on plagiarisation or secondary sources, Mr Mehta’s article cite facts and figures from F.P. Journe itself. For instance, he tells us that only 35 examples of the Octa Ch...
Revolution
LVMH Watch Week: Hublot Big Bang Integral Time Only
Hublot’s Big Bang made a splash with a metal bracelet in 2020; now it evolves further by getting a time-only version in a smaller case.
Deployant
New: Longines HydroConquest XXII Commonwealth Games on Quick Takes
The new Longines HydroConquest XXII Commonwealth Games is a limited edition of 2022 pieces and retails at S$2860. It is a colorful variant to an otherwise common dive watch design, and benefits from a rather robust 3-day automatic movement. Fit on a bracelet and water resistant to 300m, the watch is versatile and sporty, and rather ideal as a daily beater.
Time+Tide
INTRODUCING: The Monochrome Montre de Souscription 2 x Czapek Antarctique “Monochrome White”
While the collection has been around for years now, more and more members of the watch community are waking up to the appeal of the Czapek Antarctique. We have lauded the watch here on the site for being a wonderful (and possibly better) alternative to some of the more unobtanium integrated sports watches. We were … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Monochrome Montre de Souscription 2 x Czapek Antarctique “Monochrome White” appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Hodinkee
Editors' Picks: If You're Going To Give A Friend A Watch, Give Them One Of These
Like a friendship bracelet, but better.
Deployant
Review: new Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF Micro-Rotor Steel
Parmigiani's offering is well designed and executed and provides a subtle alternative to the crowded steel bracelet watch category. The thinness of the watch and the utility of a simple time only haute horologerie bracelet watch makes for a highly versatile stealth wealth timepiece. This segment popularized by the two-handed ultra thin models of Genta lineage has seen a resurgence in the past few years. Considering how unattainable these pieces have become of late, consumers have turned to alternatives.
Revolution
URWERK Introduces the UR-100V Full Titanium Jacket
URWERK introduces the UR-100V Full Titanium Jacket at Dubai Watch Week 2021, in sandblasted titanium with a 32-link sandblasted titanium bracelet
Quill & Pad
Behind The Lens: Two 1815 Chronographs From A. Lange & Söhne – Reprise
Can you imagine buying a watch bracelet and then searching for the right watch to pair with it? Seems a bit far fetched, but that’s exactly what a good friend of GaryG's did a few years ago. And it led to him purchasing two beautiful 1815 Chronograph models from A. Lange & Söhne.
Revolution
Available in the Shop: Two takes on the sporty Cartier Santos
It’s no secret that integrated bracelets are hot property, and one of the greatest integrated designs is the sporty Cartier Santos. We dive into the story behind the watch that practically defines sports chic, the brainchild of the legendary Dominique Perrin. This sporty design is now over 40 years old, but it’s still relevant, as major updates in 2018, along with our latest Watchfinder examples, show.
Time+Tide
Is the Nomos Glashütte Club Sport Neomatik 42 the new value rival of the Rolex Datejust?
Nomos are known for their distinctive Bauhaus designs that are immediately distinguishable from across a crowded room. When the Nomos Club Sport Neomatik 42 made its way into my feed, however, I immediately clocked its new bracelet and was confounded by what I saw (in a good way). Nomos, with their new bracelet design, has … ContinuedThe post Is the Nomos Glashütte Club Sport Neomatik 42 the new value rival of the Rolex Datejust? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
What the Patek Phillipe 5095/1A potentially suggests about the future of the brand in steel
Recently Patek Philippe introduced three new chronographs with complications: the 5905/1A, 5204-011, and 5930P-001. Standing out amongst the trio, to many, was the ref. 5905/1A – the first ever 5905 Annual Calendar Flyback Chronograph to be released in stainless steel. Not only does the watch have a stainless-steel case, but also a matching stainless-steel bracelet … ContinuedThe post What the Patek Phillipe 5095/1A potentially suggests about the future of the brand in steel appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Deployant
Quick takes: Zenith DEFY Extreme new for 2021
We like the look and feel of the watch; in particular for its larger size as compared to the DEFY 21. While it takes a larger wrist to pull off, the DEFY Extreme offers a compelling alternative in the skeleton sports watch category. As with the DEFY 21, the movement is ahead of most of its competitors, in technical feat and animation. The Extreme also offers multiple looks in one watch with a bracelet, rubber and velcro option interchangeable with a button quick release mechanism. Priced from US$18,000, the DEFY Extreme is a muscled up DEFY 21 for those who like a sporty chronograph with an extra heft.
SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Introduces the Annual Calendar Chronograph Ref. 5905/1A
A model often overshadowed by “hot” watches or more complicated ones, the ref. 5905 combines a pair of useful complications into an everyday dress watch, but it was previously available only in a conservative, luxe guise of precious metal case and classical dial colours. But now Patek Philippe is changing up the feel of the model with the Annual Calendar Chronograph ref. 5905/1A. Now cased in steel and matched with a three-link bracelet inspired by the Aquanaut, the ref. 5905/1A retains the sectored dial found on earlier versions of the model, but now in olive green – the same shade found on the Nautilus ref. 5711/1A-014. Initial thoughts Patek Philippe’s opening act for the year was the Nautilus ref. 5711/1A with an olive-green dial (and with the option of a diamond-set bezel), an immediate hit that has become one of the most sought-after watches of 2021. The Nautilus was already hot, as all sports watches with integrated bracelets are, but bestowing the most fashionable colour of the year on the “final edition” of the Nautilus ref. 5711 escalated its desirability to the stratosphere. That bodes well for the ref. 5905/1A. The ref. 5905/1A will be instantly attractive since it caters to current tastes. Its inevitable desirability will overshadow its intrinsic qualities (and also the accessible price), which is a bit of a shame. While intriguing it is not, the ref. 5905/1A is a good-looking watch, and one executed in a practical material while offering usef...
Time+Tide
HANDS-ON: The Seiko Prospex Black Series is a hard-hitting stealth trio – all under $650 USD
If you are looking for a stealth entry-level watch to add to your collection, you may want to consider one of the latest trios to enter Seiko’s collection: the Seiko Prospex Black Series Limited Editions. The offering is a reminder of the power that a vertically integrated manufacture holds, making each of the components in-house … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The Seiko Prospex Black Series is a hard-hitting stealth trio – all under $650 USD appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Hodinkee
Introducing: Whoa, The Tudor Black Bay Fifty-Eight Is Now Fully Bronze (Live Pics & Pricing)
It comes on a bronze bracelet with an entirely new clasp – and in a fan-favorite size.
Deployant
New: Audemars Piguet 42mm Royal Oak Offshore Selfwinding Chronograph
AP presents 5 new Royal Oak Offshore Selfwinding Chronograph models in 42 mm equipped with the latest integrated flyback chronograph movement, Calibre 4404.
SJX Watches
In-Depth: The New Omega Speedmaster Professional Moonwatch Cal. 3861
Having finally retired the decades-old version of the Speedmaster Professional Moonwatch powered by the cal. 1861, Omega announced its successor at the start of the year. Equipped with the new cal. 3861, the Speedmaster Moonwatch Professional Co-Axial Master Chronometer Chronograph 42 mm is the result of a thorough makeover, with all its parts – from the case and bracelet to the dial and movement – reworked in nearly every respect. The latest version (left) and its predecessor While that seems to imply a radical change, it’s near impossible to tell the new and old versions apart. Despite being all encompassing, the improvements are subtle. From an aesthetic perspective, the Moonwatch remains as it was in the mid 1960s, when the straight lugs of the earlier generations were replaced with the twisted, “lyre” lugs that are now a defining feature of the model. That leads to the obvious question: if the two generations are nearly identical, is the new version any better? Briefly put, yes. Two upgrades elevate the new Moonwatch in a tangible and substantial manner. One lies in the detail of its design: the face has a bit more flair thanks to greater distinction between the different levels of the dial. And the other lies on the inside: the new cal. 3861 gets most of Omega’s state-of-the-art innovations, resulting in improved timekeeping, as well as a useful level of magnetism resistance. The new cal. 3861 (left) and the cal. 1863 (the dressed-up version of the ...
Time+Tide
HANDS-ON: The Zenith Chronomaster Original Collection offers vintage perfection on a 38mm dial
Zenith have a track record for having their fingers on the pulse of the watch world. In the ‘60s, they spent nearly the entire decade developing the El Primero to be the world’s first integrated automatic chronograph movement. Back then, the world was crying out for innovation: new techniques, new designs and new possibilities. Now, … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The Zenith Chronomaster Original Collection offers vintage perfection on a 38mm dial appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
VIDEO: The Zenith Chronomaster Original Collection hits the sweet spot in three different forms
In the 1960s, Zenith developed the El Primero to be the world’s first integrated automatic chronograph movement. Back then the world was crying out for innovation: new techniques, new designs, and new possibilities. Now watch buyers increasingly seem to appreciate tradition, vintage reissues and smaller sizes. The Zenith Chronomaster Original offers both progress and nostalgia … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: The Zenith Chronomaster Original Collection hits the sweet spot in three different forms appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
Until we get more Oysterflex, these are our preferred Rolex rubber strap options on the market
Like Romeo and Juliet, the Rolex Submariner and the Oysterflex bracelet were meant to be together. The iconic diver’s watch and (probably) the world’s best rubber strap are the beautiful couple never allowed to marry due to draconian family rules. So what are the DIY alternatives to speed up this matrimony? After all, despite what … ContinuedThe post Until we get more Oysterflex, these are our preferred Rolex rubber strap options on the market appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Hodinkee
Editors' Picks: Stop Scrolling And Go Read These Watch Books
Let the sun bounce off the bracelet of your watch as you slowly turn the pages of one of these riveting books on a beach near you.
Time+Tide
Sorry Matt, but I would never put my Rolex Submariner on a rubber strap
Matt. I hear you. You made your case. But I would never, ever, remove the bracelet from my Rolex Submariner ref. 114060 – or any Rolex for that matter. I cry blasphemy here not because a rubber strap looks particularly bad on the watch, in fact I concede it looks fine and is probably very … ContinuedThe post Sorry Matt, but I would never put my Rolex Submariner on a rubber strap appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
So shoot me, I like my Submariner on a rubber strap ¯\_(ツ)_/¯
One of our traditions at Time+Tide is a wristcheck on on the weekly editorial call. Last week, it was my 114060 Rolex Sub on a Rubber B rubber strap. My illustrious colleague, Mr. Zach Blass did not approve. He was giving me grief about taking off the Oyster bracelet for my Submariner and wearing it … ContinuedThe post So shoot me, I like my Submariner on a rubber strap ¯\_(ツ)_/¯ appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.