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Monochrome
Frederique Constant has updated its Classic Moonphase Date Manufacture with a premium 18k white gold case and green malachite dial that’s being released in limited numbers. It’s aesthetically similar to the British racing green (dial) steel variant from a few months ago, but is now much more premium with the change in materials. The watch […]
Monochrome
Since its creation in 1966, the Doxa SUB 300 has become one of the most emblematic dive watches around, with its quirky design and its no-deco bezel. And always with the crown at 3 o’clock… Until now. The new Doxa SUB 300T Aristera is specifically designed with the crown positioned at 9 o’clock, making it […]
Time+Tide
The Legend Diver 39mm gets a refresh with new green, terracotta, and anthracite polished lacquer dials.The post The Longines Legend Diver 39mm range expands with new polished lacquer dial colours (live pics) appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Monochrome
If you’re an avid diver and watch enthusiast, the name Promaster should be more than familiar. Created by Japanese watchmaker Citizen in 1989 as a brand to meet the needs of professionals working in the most challenging environments of the land, sea, and sky, Promaster has grown to a collection that includes over 30 different […]
Quill & Pad
Martin Green has a passion for dress watches, so HYT has always been an interesting brand for him to write about, but not one he could see himself owning. The T1 has changed that.
Monochrome
Have you ever found yourself torn between two rather similar-looking watches and not knowing which one to go for? I’m pretty sure we’ve all experienced this at some point, maybe even two watches from the same brand. The choice of a blue or green dial, or any other colour for that matter, can already be […]
Teddy Baldassarre
Newcomers to the watch appreciation game can be forgiven for reflexively, and solely, crediting the Japanese with bringing electronics into the mainstream of the watch industry, but the embryonic phase of the technology took place in the United States. And the most accurate electronic movement on the market today emerged from the synergy between one of America's most historic home-grown watch manufacturers and one of Japan's most innovative pioneers of timekeeping technology. It's called the Precisionist, it's exclusive to Bulova, and while you may not have heard of it or know much about it, it's becoming a fixture in several Bulova watches that increasingly demand enthusiast attention. Bulova, founded in New York City in 1875 by Bohemian immigrant Joseph Bulova, was one of the first watchmakers in the world to seriously explore the development of electronics in wristwatch movements. In 1960, just a few years after another American watch manufacturer, Hamilton, had introduced its flawed but groundbreaking electric-powered Ventura (more on that here), Bulova unveiled its own high-tech timepiece, the Accutron Spaceview 214. The watch took its numerical designation from its movement, Caliber 214, a revolutionary mechanism in which the balance wheel, which drives the timekeeping in a mechanical movement, was replaced by a tuning fork, powered by a one-transistor electronic oscillator. This system ensured an oscillation rate of 360 hertz - nearly 150 times faster than tha...
Worn & Wound
The Armin Strom Gravity Equal Force is not like other watches. At a glance, it clearly doesn’t look like them, but more importantly, it also works a bit differently too, featuring a first in watchmaking. To be clear, it still tells time with three hands, is operated by a crown, and has all of the movement components one expects to find on a watch, from a mainspring to an escapement. But it hides a very cool secret. Something that sets it apart. Hidden within is a little mechanism that helps it be more accurate. It’s not a complication, per say, as it doesn’t add any functions beyond time-telling, rather, it makes for a better watch. The Gravity Equal Force is one of a small handful of watches that attempts to address a fundamental issue with mechanical timepieces: variations in accuracy across their power reserves due to changing torque. As the power reserve diminishes, the torque, or force, decreases, the amplitude of the escapement falls, and the timekeeping becomes less accurate. Watchmakers have addressed this issue in various ways over the last few hundred years, which are often grouped together and referred to as “constant force” mechanisms. The Gravity Equal Force uses a simple, though uncommon, mechanism compared to typical “constant force” systems such as fuseé, chains, and remontoirs called a Geneva or Maltese cross. This mechanism prevents the watch mainspring from unwinding to the point where the torque and, thus, the accuracy really drop off. Ho...
Quill & Pad
One of Martin Green's favorite complications is the perpetual calendar, aka QP. While he knows that an annual calendar can do almost the same for a lot less, he is still mesmerized by the human ingenuity of being able to a miniature mechanical device that can even deal with leap years.
SJX Watches
While Laurent Ferrier originally made its name with timepieces that paid homage to traditional watchmaking, the brand has recently evolved towards to a more contemporary style, especially with its Sport collection that marries solid, classical mechanics with sporty case designs. The latest addition to the line is the Grand Sport Tourbillon Sincere Platinum Jubilee Edition, a limited edition in rose gold and green guilloche that celebrates the 70th anniversary of Singapore-based retailer Sincere Fine Watches. Initial Thoughts The Sincere edition is essentially a Grand Sport Tourbillon dressed in a warm and appealing palette. The green dial complements the 5N rose gold case, a rich combination that conveys a sense of old-school luxury and refinement, which suits the commemorative occasion well. Unusually, it is presented on a strap, instead of a bracelet that has been the norm for most of Laurent Ferrier’s sports watches to date. The strap makes the watch more wearable – a bracelet would mean a lot of gold – and also slightly more accessible in terms of price. In typical Laurent Ferrier style, the quality of execution is high. The dial is made by Voutilainen’s Comblemine while the movement is decorated to an impressive level (though the bridges have a simpler linear brushed finish instead of the more traditional striping). Intrinsically, the Sincere edition is an appealing iteration, but the Laurent Ferrier Sport line in general feels ambiguous as the design not e...
Time+Tide
The watch in question? A vintage IWC Ingenieur "Jumbo" SL Automatic ref. 1832 from 1976 with a custom green dial.The post Brad Pitt confirmed wearing custom vintage IWC on F1 movie set appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Named after its silver, textured dial, the Grand Seiko Hi-Beat 36000 GMT SBGJ277 “Snow Valley” is a variant of the longstanding Sport Collection GMT with a sapphire-covered 24-hour bezel. It’s in two-tone green and white inspired by the area around Grand Seiko Studio Shizukuishi at the end of winter, where the mountain is covered in lush greenery but topped by white snow. In typical Grand Seiko style, the steel case is finished with zaratsu flat polishing. It is equipped with a high-frequency cal. 9S86 running at 5 Hz that is a “true” GMT movement with an independently adjustable local time hour hand. The silvery white texture depicts snow on the ground in the mountain. Initial thoughts Grand Seiko often turns to nature for its dial colours and patterns, with many of its timepieces are named after elements of the nature world, the Spring Drive “Pink Snowflake”. In the case of the SBGJ277, it’s not just the dial, but also the green-and-silver livery of the watch that is “Snow Valley”. Grand Seiko rolls out such model variants and limited editions frequently, too often sometimes, but its offerings remain good value. This also applies to the SBGJ277, which is priced at US$6,800. It is a practical watch with an in-house movement and a genuine GMT function, along with a high level of fit and finish on almost every element; arguably only the bracelet needs to be upgraded, with a micro-adjustment clasp for instance. Featuring an offset crown at four o’clock ...
SJX Watches
Breitling’s latest collaboration is a pair of limited-edition Chronomats conceived together with Giannis Antetokounmpo, the Greek-Nigerian basketballer who plays for the NBA’s Milwaukee Bucks. The entry-level model is the Chronomat Automatic GMT 40 Giannis Antetokounmpo in stainless steel, an edition of 1,750 pieces. And then there’s the Chronomat B01 42 Giannis Antetokounmpo in 18k red gold that’s limited to 250. Both share the same dial with baton indices, finished in a green reminiscent of the Milwaukee Bucks’ team colours. And NBA superstar himself gets a unique creation: an all-red gold Chronomat B01 42 with the same green dial but with the registers and flange in contrasting white, along with Eastern-Arabic numerals (pictured above). Initial thoughts The Giannis Antetokounmpo editions are essentially identical to the respective standard Chronomat models, save for the dial colour that’s a brighter shade of green, along with the basketballer’s discreet “GA” as the second hands counterweight. The chronograph has the addition of a basketball emblem on the seconds register. The basketball elements in the design are minimal, so the two are a good cosmetic alternative to the standard models, even for someone who doesn’t follow basketball since the sport. That’s especially so since the Giannis Antetokounmpo editions are priced the same as the standard models: the GMT costs US$6,150, while the B01 chronograph is US$42,500 on the red gold Rouleaux brac...
Time+Tide
Your 101 guide to keeping your bronze watch clean and shiny or green and grimey.The post How to care for your bronze watch, from forcing patina to citric acid baths appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Quill & Pad
Angelus offers the Instrument de Vitesse in classic black or ivory dials, each limited to a ridiculously low 25 pieces. Martin Green thinks that the black dial with copper-colored numerals and railroad track with red details looks fabulous.
Quill & Pad
One of the things Martin Green admires about Moser is that they seem to design each and every individual watch. The new Streamliner Tourbillon Wyoming Jade is a case in point.
SJX Watches
Capping several months of rumours, Richemont has just announced the appointment of Louis Ferla as the chief executive of Cartier. Having been in charge of Vacheron Constantin since 2017 – during which its annual sales tripled to about €1 billion – Mr Ferla succeeds Cyrille Vigneron, who is retiring after eight years at the top of the jewel in Richemont’s crown. This news comes just weeks after Nicolas Bos was named chief executive of Richemont, the Swiss luxury group that also owns brands like Van Cleef & Arpels and IWC. Mr Bos was the longtime chief executive of Van Cleef & Arpels and will be replaced by Catherine Rénier, who’s been running Jaeger-LeCoultre since 2018. Elevating VC Officially assuming the coveted top job at Cartier on September 1, Mr Ferla has been with Richemont since 2001 when he joined Alfred Dunhill, before moving to Cartier in 2006 where he rose to International Director of Clients and Business. His tenure at Vacheron Constantin saw the brand increase both its sales and margins as the brand trimmed its retail network to focus on in-house boutiques, while also boosting its offerings of high-end, one-off Les Cabinotiers timepieces. Vacheron Constantin has yet to announce Mr Ferla’s replacement, but his deputy, chief commercial officer Laurent Perves, will step up as the interim chief executive. Mr Ferla’s name became the subject of conversations in the industry at end 2022, when it emerged he was one of the candidates to succeed Francois...
Revolution
In celebration of Breitling’s 140th anniversary, Wei is joined by Georges Kern, CEO of Breitling, to explore their exciting novelties for 2024. Highlights include the new Breitling Aerospace B70 Orbiter, with an incredible story behind it, and new 2024 versions of the Navitimer series, including a stunning Navitimer Cosmonaut, among many others.
Fratello
It has been quite some time since I wrote a hands-on review of a modern watch. When the news announcing the revival of my beloved Mondia Top Second hit our press mailbox last September, I instantly volunteered to look at it. A deep green sample of the new Mondia Top Second eventually landed safely on […] Visit Hands-On With The Mondia Top Second Reissue - The Cult-Classic Flashing Dot Makes A Comeback to read the full article.
SJX Watches
Time Capsule: The Breitling Heritage Exhibition is coming to a Breitling boutique near you as it makes 55 stops across four continents over the course of 2024. On show are the most significant vintage timepieces – mostly chronographs naturally – from the brand’s 140-year history, including the first-ever chronograph with a pusher separate from the crown, a 1915 invention of Gaston Breitling. Many of the watches on show were the first of their kind, hence the exhibition’s tagline “140 Years of Firsts”. Amongst the other highlights is the Navitimer with its slide rule bezel that Breitling describes as the first flight computer for the wrist, and the Chrono-Matic, the first self-winding chronograph movement developed by a consortium that included Breitling. Amongst the more recent timepieces is the Emergency, the first wristwatch with a built-in distress beacon. The vintage timepieces are exhibited in streamer-trunk display cases tailored to each boutique with QR codes in the showcases that provide additional historical detail Vintage timepieces are the main highlights of the show. The exhibition is making stops in key cities in the Americas, Europe, Oceania, the Middle East, and Asia, with some stops happening concurrently. Each stop will be for one to two weeks in the local Breitling boutique. Time Capsule is open to the public. Scheduling an appointment is not mandatory but recommended. A few of the cities that will host the exhibition are as follows, for the ...
Monochrome
Using its classic codes, De Bethune merges the sleek profile of the ultra-thin DB28XP with the captivating blue hue debuted on the DB28T Kind of Blue to present a quintessentially De Bethune creation. As one of De Bethune’s most iconic models, the DB28 showcases the brand’s signature floating lugs, a crown positioned at 12 o’clock […]
Fratello
Just over four decades after its debut, the Rado Anatom is back. It’s bigger than ever with a mechanical movement instead of a quartz one, a bezel and crown in black high-tech ceramic, and a middle case in black PVD-treated steel instead of traditional steel. The new Anatom also shows an impressive edge-to-edge sapphire crystal […] Visit Splitting The Anatom - Hands-On With The New Rado Anatom Automatic And Its Vintage Predecessor to read the full article.
SJX Watches
Oris has tweaked its popular dive watch resulting in the Divers Sixty-Five Calibre 400 38 mm. The latest creation from the Holstein-based manufacturer gently reworks the original design, including shrinking the case to 38 mm and removing the date window while retaining the in-house movement. The cleaner look is matched with a green dial with a gradient finish that fades from metallic green to black on the dial’s periphery. Initial thoughts The Divers Sixty-Five is Oris’ bestseller and has been an experimental playground for the brand to iterate case sizes, materials, and dial colours, including a steel-and-bronze version Chinese watch magazine Ctime. The new 38 mm version illustrates this. Although it doesn’t look strikingly different from its predecessors at first glance, the new Divers Sixty-Five is the culmination the progressive development of the model. It combines the in-house Calibre 400 and 38 mm case size, along with the removal of the date window that watch enthusiasts will applaud. The green sunburst dial pops While the vintage-inspired aesthetic is somewhat generic (and green a common colour for dive watches), the new Divers Sixty-Five is a decent value proposition at US$3,900, especially considering the in-house automatic movement with an unusually long five-day power reserve. Vivid green Unlike past 38 mm models that were equipped with Sellita movements, the new Divers Sixty-Five is the first 38 mm model in the line to feature the brand’s proprietary ...
Worn & Wound
So far 2024 is a year where brands have been belting out bombastic bangers of watches one after another. So, when a different take on a beloved complication is dropped, we naturally crane our necks to peek at what’s new. The first Swiss chronograph in New Zealand based Beaufort’s lineup highlights the old school idea of a doctor/medic’s watch with a pulsometer as the primary complication. It takes this complication and sets it inside a case and dial that are elegant, yet industrial, but some of the changes made to the chronograph functionality caused me to ask some questions. The Beaufort Pulsatimer, upon quick inspection, might look like your average chrono, but the longer you linger over its construction, the more you’ll start to notice its unique styling. The case is almost totally brushed, with the exception of thinly polished chamfered edges and a polished inner bezel ring. The polished ring steps up from a brushed base bezel ring like the watch is laying its own foundation. And rising once more from the step bezel is a significantly raised box sapphire crystal. All this architecture pulls your eye into a dial that dramatically drops from the crystal with the sloped pulsometer chapter ring. Then we find a beautiful, vertically brushed copper-colored dial that Beaufort calls “Salmon.” They also have an all black, DLC coated version, a reverse panda black and silver dial, and an all silver dial version of the Pulsatimer. The architectural nuances of the ca...
SJX Watches
Singer Reimagined is dropping new variants of the 1969 Chronograph and 1969 Timer that maintain the same design as the originals from last year, but with the option of a new case material, bronze, as well as new dial colours. The bronze models get a matte green dial, while the steel variants have a sun-ray, silver-toned dial. Initial thoughts An outlier amongst watch brands, Singer Reimagined is actually the sister brand of Singer Vehicle Design, one of the most prominent rebuilders of vintage Porsches. So rather than the usual watch brand making a car-inspired watch, it is a carmaker making a watch. The 1969 Timer The unusual chronograph display, retro cushion-shaped case, and racetrack-inspired bracelet all have clear automotive inspiration and are fairly unique in themselves, but for watch enthusiasts the key selling point will be the Agenhor movements (both are equipped with variants of the same base calibre). The movement is especially notable for its ingenious construction, where amongst other innovations the rotor is placed underneath the dial to provide an unobstructed view of the moving parts. The 1969 Chronograph movement Priced at CHF31,500 and CHF53,500 respectively, the 1969 Timer and the 1969 Chronograph aren’t inexpensive. While the 1969 Timer is relatively simple as a one-minute timer and consequently pricey, the chronograph is priced fairly given the unique nature of the movement. New variations of existing lineups The Singer Reimagined 1969 models share...
Monochrome
Like seasons throughout the year, there’s a constant ebb and flow in terms of design, shapes, colours, sizes and materials in watchmaking. Colour is perhaps the easiest to change for brands, but also the one that’s the most susceptible to the public’s opinion and demands. With green being “the hottest thing since sliced bread” over […]
Quill & Pad
Some watches are so perfect there isn't a thing you want to be changed about them. For Martin Green, this was the case with the Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle Split-Seconds Chronograph Ultra-Thin Collection Excellence Platine. Apart from its name, which he thinks is decidedly too long. But a look through the display back more than makes up for that.
Hodinkee
The Crown published official renderings and publicly commented on the billion-dollar project for the first time since the news of the expansion was announced back in 2022.
SJX Watches
Omega continues to expand the range of its famous chronograph with the Speedmaster Professional Moonwatch Bi-Colour. Following the recent Moonwatch with a white dial, the two-tone models are based on the Speedmaster cal. 3861 from 2021. The new pair share the 42 mm case, stepped dial, and “Nixon” bracelet, but they get a two-tone livery with gold elements in the bracelet, bezel, dial, crown, and pushers. And the gold is, of course, either one of Omega’s proprietary alloys, Moonshine or Sedna gold. Initial thoughts Before the long-overdue update in 2021, most notably with the cal. 3861, the Speedmaster Moonwatch was beginning to feel dated in terms of tech and specs. The iterations introduced since the update have been spaced out well and fill logical gaps in the Moonwatch lineup, essentially creating a variant of the Moonwatch for everyone. This two-tone pair is a good example of that. Though steel-and-gold variants of the Moonwatch have existed in the past, they have never been common, or even that popular. The new models aren’t for everyone, but a useful addition to the lineup. Both are Moonwatches in terms of intrinsic features and design, but look very different from the quintessential, no-frills steel model. The two-tone models cater to someone who wants a Moonwatch with a bit more shine and a slightly retro feel. At US$18,100, the two-tone Speedmaster is a fair value proposition. It’s significantly pricier than the all-steel version, but priced in line with...
Teddy Baldassarre
When you think of Australia, watches are probably not the first images that come to your mind. Kangaroos, boomerangs, Hugh Jackman, and Nicole Kidman, maybe, but not watches. However, much like Great Britain, France,, and our own United States, Australia in the 21st Century has given rise to a creative and ambitious generation of watch aficionados-turned-entrepreneurs that are eager to establish home-grown watchmaking in the Land Down Under. While a full-fledged horological industry in Australia is still quite a way from becoming reality - unlike those aforementioned nations, it has little watchmaking history to speak of, and outsourced parts and even manufacturing are still the norm - these 10 Australia-based watch brands are making timepieces worthy of enthusiasts’ attention. Melbourne Watch Co. Founded: 2013 Headquarters: Melbourne, Australia Founder: Sujain Krishnan Notable models: Melbourne, Flinders, Portsea, Fitzroy Melbourne Watch Company started out as a crowd-funded venture in 2013, a passion project for founder, former IT consultant and self-trained watchmaker Sujain Krishnan. It attained early success with its first timepiece, the Flinders Automatic, a business-casual steel watch named for a central train hub in the founder’s home city of Melbourne and sporting a dial inspired by that station’s clock. The brand has expanded its offerings in the decade-plus since, now offering no less than seven collections, all taking their names and some aesthetic cu...
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